Annual maintenance and rust concerns on a Tesla Model 3
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 มิ.ย. 2024
- In this video I examine a bunch of areas where it's common for rust to form, and end up finding some spots where it's not. Here's a list of affiliate links to the parts I used in this video:
Ceramic Brake Pads: amzn.to/3WBBGbQ
Brake Lube: amzn.to/3UVLfkF
Brake Parts Cleaner: amzn.to/3wjhyAB
Fluid Film: amzn.to/3K1edch
Iron Remover: amzn.to/3UCrSeL
Dielectric Grease: amzn.to/3JVfXnr
Push Pin Pliers: amzn.to/3JWa61c
Hand Cleaning Wipes: amzn.to/4bx8mYg
Battery Terminal Brush: amzn.to/3QzVzw8
And big thanks to Peter at EvPartsGuy.com for hooking me up with the fenders! Feel free to give him a call if you need any new or used parts and tell him I said hi!
0:00 Intro
1:18 Rust behind fenders
3:49 Rust in rocker panels
4:00 Annual brake service
9:22 Brakes sticking after parked
20:11 Cleaning up brake rotors
22:04 Battery terminals
24:10 Fallout
26:28 License Plate
27:51 XRF Analysis - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
![[TH] VCT Masters Shanghai Playoffs DAY 4 // 100T vs GEN | G2 vs TH](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/UkTGSxdCUQw/mqdefault.jpg)
Here's a list of affiliate links to the parts I used in this video:
Ceramic Brake Pads: amzn.to/3WBBGbQ
Brake Lube: amzn.to/3UVLfkF
Brake Parts Cleaner: amzn.to/3wjhyAB
Fluid Film: amzn.to/3K1edch
Iron Remover: amzn.to/3UCrSeL
Dielectric Grease: amzn.to/3JVfXnr
Push Pin Pliers: amzn.to/3JWa61c
Hand Cleaning Wipes: amzn.to/4bx8mYg
Battery Terminal Brush: amzn.to/3QzVzw8
And big thanks to Peter at EvPartsGuy.com for hooking me up with the fenders! Feel free to give him a call if you need any new or used parts and tell him I said hi!
What car jack do you use?
those ceramic Pads will kill your Rotor (Rust streaks). Had ATE Ceramic on my BMW (ICE). I also assume that the Tesla pads are already “ceramic” anyway (low dust).
To answer your question: I just want more videos - long or short. You’re an incredibly clear, concise, and informative teacher. At this point I’ll watch anything you post, no matter the length.
Someone suggested you do a video on clearing out the incredible amount of junk that collects between your condenser and radiator. A friend and I did our cars and it was quite challenging and I don’t think we did as thorough a job as we could have. I’d love to see a video on that. Thanks so much for these videos, Adam!
I promise I will watch every Model 3 maintenance video you make.
Your M3 is the same year and similar mileage as mine. In service mode, I suggest you run a "Thermal System Performance Test". Your test will likely fail. Then remove your frunk tub and check how much crap is in your radiator/condenser. I think you'll have a nice future video cleaning it coming up! ;) You will need to remove the bumper and slide out the fan shroud to properly get to the condenser to clean it.
I’m looking forward to seeing his video on that! A friend and I did it in his 2018 TM3 and it was pretty challenging and we disassembled a few things we didn’t have to, and I felt like we forced a few things that maybe we didn’t have to. So I can’t wait to watch his video on cleaning the radiator and condenser.
I appreciated how accessible this was for someone without any experience doing this kind of thing. I _almost_ feel like I could follow the steps myself, but I'll probably still use professionals to be safe :-)
FWIW the "professionals" that replaced my battery under warranty took not one, not two, but FIVE trips to finish the job. After the fourth, I inspected their work and noticed that they straight up lost a bolt while replacing the ground cable. While making this video I discovered that they broke one of the tabs on that red terminal cover. It honestly would have taken me LESS time for a better job had I just done it myself! Just because it's someone's profession doesn't mean they're a professional, and even if they have experience (not a guarantee), that doesn't mean they're competent. You can always pay someone to inspect your work, or find a gearhead who'd watch over your shoulder while you get comfortable. I hope this helps you find the confidence to start this new hobby!
@@adamdport great statement! I’ve seen this countless times with apple support.
Aside from some very basic knowledge I picked up in an auto mechanics class in high school, I had no real experience working on cars growing up. I wanted to learn, though, and started taking on basic repairs and upgrades (oil changes, brake jobs, stereo swaps, etc.) using TH-cam and other online resources (car forums can be a great resource as well).
I’m still only a basic DIYer, but it’s nice to be able to tackle small jobs on your own. I personally plan for jobs to take 2x - 3x longer than may be stated online or you think it ought to take, especially if it’s your first time doing it. Go slow, be careful, and double check your work.
Expect to encounter frustrations along the way, but try to roll with the punches and you will learn a lot along the way and be able to take pride in doing things yourself.
Man I don't care about video length as long as you only post from now on. Thank you for the video and the information you shared with us .
Very interesting. My 2022 model 3 now has 70,000 miles and I live in a heavy road salt area as well. Changing my winter tires over to summer I also take apart my brakes to clean and lubricate them. This year I noticed surface rust pitting all over the steel mono structure. Now that I see how easy it is to remove the whole fender liner I’m going to go back an apply a thin coat of that wax you used.
Please more long form videos. Thanks! :)
This just popped up in my feed and you are a) very concise and b) far more thorough than a workshop tech will ever be in a franchised garage! Great job 👏
Always such thorough content! Very much appreciated!
I liked this long format. I watched it all. Very informative and I've learned something new.
Nice to see that someone is doing proactive cleaning and making a video about how to do it.
Those presentations are so well prepared… also, the tone and talking speed is very well delivered and it helps international audience; I am not in the Tesla family; (Ioniq 5 & 6) but I enjoy all of his presentations. What is good for Tesla is also good for Hyundai; thank you for all those little details…! And have a nice day, 👌
Dude. Excellent explanations. Great voice. I admire your dedication and thoroughness. Subscribed. I don't mind the length at all.
Thank you! These are the most informative, helpful, and easy-to-follow auto maintenance videos I’ve ever seen. Half the time I’m watching a TH-cam video I’m just listening while I play a game, but I watch every single frame of your videos. Tremendous signal-to-noise (info-to-filler) ratio.
Adam, you are incredibly detailed and thorough! This is what sets you apart from other TH-camrs. Do not shorten these videos by skimping.
I’m fine with your longer running times because I know I’m going to learn a lot. But you could experiment with breaking up some existing videos into “Part 1 of 4” with titles that tease the content of each. You could also lead your content description a link to full video.
You do a great job. I’m excited when your videos come out!!
This is the first video of yours that I have seen - and I will be watching more for certain. I don't have a Tesla, and don't want one, but I AM interested in the technology. I found your presentation, accuracy and thoroughness to be engaging, and will certainly watch more of your videos. You refer to the longer format of this video?.. Well I for one am happy with the duration.
TTFN
I really like the idea of Tesla adding a brake maintenance schedule/mode/whatever. I have to change out my front rotors soon since they've gotten all rusted up on the edges from non-use, but this happened before they added the low-regen-braking-assist option. I'm hoping the new set won't have that issue.
Your ceramic rear pad experiment is really promising; it would be great if you gave us an update on how they behave over the summer!
...aaaand I just realized that the replacement pads I ordered for the front brakes are exactly what you put on the rear 😁
There's a rubber plug in each fender well can be removed to spray the inside of the rocker panel with fluid film. Doirectric grease is an excellent insulator and water repellent; apply it over the outside of an installed battery terminal - to keep moisture away from the inside. (Fluid Film does the same thing.)
Yes, absolutely! Doing that has worked very well for keeping the rockers intact on my 12 year old daily driver purchased new. I'm in western NY where the DOT does its best to keep the salt mines in business.
absolutely one of the most informative videos on general maintenance of the model 3 out there!
Thorough job, love these long form well researched videos
Yes! More long form. This was great and super valuable.
Great video! Thank you for all the details. I didn’t mind the length. It was all very relevant for annual maintenance.
Awesome video! Thanks for the great info, and for being so so thorough
Thanks for such a nice video. I watched it from start thru the end without skipping. Please keep doing this kind of video more.
Another great video, Adam! Keep up the good works!
So thorough... I love this channel.
Thanks for this video! It reminds me I need to do my yearly brake service. After your video on the stinky AC issue, I installed the gasket product listed in the description (for my model Y) and I’ve not had any trouble since.
I enjoyed the long format.
Also liked the black and white “don’t do this” examples!
A great video, I just had the Tesla Service Center do my 4 year brake maintenance, it cost over 800.00USD, included a fluid change and a rear flex hose that was going to fail.
Please please make more TM3 videos. Very informative, good format, easy to understand. Enjoyed to they fullest!!
Hi Adam, greetings from the U.K. Thanks for this video, calmly and thoroughly narrated with good information. Top job!
Can you do a condenser coil cleaning next? Your camera angles are great for showing what you’re actually working on. Keep up the videos please!
I learned a lot! Thank you so much! Please keep doing Tesla-related content.
Best model 3 brake video I have seen by far. Long form video is great.
I'm about to get a Model 3, and I have always worked on my own cars where possible. This is a fantastic video, so thank you.
Excellent video simple to understand great work!
Long form is fine. Thank you for all your effort!
Great stuff! Your efforts are appreciated!
Great video. Love your style of teaching.
I don’t even own a Tesla but enjoyed it. I’m looking into getting a Tesla Model 3
Thanks for the great service tutorial. For a 4 yr old car, your car looked in great shape.
Fantastic job on the video and content. I prefer the long form videos. Thanks.
Bruh. What good content. Thanks! Can’t wait to see more!
Awesome content! Thanks for sharing your knowledge !
Long form like this is great!
Such a great video. Thank you so much!
I won’t be doing much work on the car myself, but it is great to understand things that might or should be done by Tesla service. I watched all 30 minutes. Thanks!
I was literally just thinking of opening the fender liners on my 2021 to clear stuff out. Looking forward to what you see (commented before watching)
Great Tesla specific video!
Quality content here, your videos are the best
Ty dude. Really detailed and helpful.
Love your videos, I had rust in underbody that lead to break line corrosion and sudden break failure. Was fixed under rust warranty but still scary. Thank you for the informative video again~
That sounds insane, do you have more details? I'd love to inspect wherever that was on mine, maybe do a part 2?
I make a point to do occasional hard braking, especially in the rain and snow, before I park to avoid rust and brake sticking.
Thank you for a beautiful video!
Long form better.
Rust prevention - take a peek under trunk stops. It's a plastic nut-like element at the top of a taillight. I found some rust there, but haven't fixed it yet.
Front brake pins - I was unable to remove some of them with a hammer. The spring element at the end of the pin got stuck. This year I greased it too. Will see if it helps next year.
Rear brake springs - Tesla's service manual states, that the springs are teflon coated and don't need lubrication. Of course grease won't hurt them. :)
Very informative and well-presented video. It will be of use to any Tesla owner in Canada.
Awesome video. Thanks for posting
the automatic brake for cleaning the brake pads would be brilliant, in Germany many Teslas fail the TÜV because the brakes start to rust after just three years
Nicely done. Great video.
Great video. With regenerative braking it is important to know it is only on the drive wheels; the RWD models do not have it on the front wheels only friction braking. Rotating wheels is probably important.
Finally found something useful to watch! YTube is getting boring these days.
Thanks for the video will come in handy when the car gets out of warranty. Long videos are better than short ones which make you lose focus fast.
Great video and format!
Great thanks looking forward to the next video 👌👌👌
Awesome Awesome video
Direct and to the point.
No jokes No sales pitches, just a true how to video. Now you just need to buy a 2023 model x so i have some how-to videos. We will use this video on our 2022 M3sr+
Great and instructive video😀Thanks
Amazing points I hope they use the breaks you memtions on the cars going ahead in the future
Thanks a lot for the info. That was a great video now I can do all that myself.keep it coming longer is better.
Nice video…. Thank you…. Very informative
Like to say, love your video. I am an ASE master tech now for over 45 years. What you might not have considered is a side effect of going to ceramic pads. The metallic pads actually clean up the rotors every time you drive. A year from now you will find much more rust and pitting on your rotors, eventually destroying your rotors. Nowadays over 98% of replacement brake rotors are Chinese. I would do whatever I could to extend the life of the OEM brake rotors because of this. We have found semi brake pads that have brass flakes. Don’t rust after a rain, the brass coats the rotor a brass coating, which protects the rotors from rusting substantially. Thanks again, posting videos like this! People need more people like you! Ray OBrien
Great info thank you! Can you talk more about your implication that ceramic brakes don't clean the rotors? How is that possible? I can't argue with 45 years of experience but it's hard to imagine-I'll certainly keep this in mind, maybe do a part 2 follow up next year?
I appreciate this video so much. Thank you very informative
Great video!!
Thanks from Romania ! :)
Very nicely done video. You might warn people to watch out for fluid overflowing the reservoir when you push the pistons back. It's only a problem if the reservoir has been topped up.
Nice video! Nice to see more people giving a better look at the potential rust issues these cars have, as I'm looking at buying one and it's a big concern with the salted slushy roads we drive on in winter here. Some examples look quite alarming for such young cars.
Great video, very thorough!!
Thank you! What part of the video did you find most helpful?
@@adamdport For me it was the annual brake maintenance (I live in a snowy / salty state) ... I was going to schedule this with Tesla for close to $300 ... Your video made it very clear how to perform the work, so I'm going to try and tackle it myself ! Thanks again !
Fluid Film is good stuff! It's done a great job keeping my 12 year old car, purchased new, from turning into a crusty mess here in the Northeast. I have the spray gun and wands to get into all the hidden areas behind the rubber body plugs.
Rocker panels typically rust from the inside out. Spraying Fluid Film inside the rocker panels will help keep them intact. Do that on a hot day to let it creep everywhere.
Very informative video. Thanks.
I have done the same , I do use ACF50 it’s really good .. over all great video thank you for sharing
Ive gotta say this video is criminally under viewed. good work.
Great video 👍💪 Much apppreciated 😊
There is already a brake cleaning mode available. Look up "burnishing brakes" in the service mode menu.
Fantastic video, thank you!
That is a Heavy vehicle not to use jack stand. Many DIY Garage guys learned it the hard way.
Very smart content
long form tesla videos and short form tesla videos, as many as you can make, i'll watch
Man this was so helpful
thanks. Lots of good knowledge : )
Great and informative video. Makes me want to do an annual, what do you call this thing again?😂 Thanks.
Very good video. Thanks. Extremely thorough. My opinion maybe a little shorter. But you cover a lot of different subjects.
Good video, but a few things to note. When you remove the battery connectors, there is a process you should do before removing the terminals from the battery. Please check the service manual for the correct steps for your cars year. Also, when you Burnishing the Brakes that should have done the same thing as the later segment on braking without regen, however if you wanted to do this as well that service menu screen you had also had a disable regen button right there.
I don't have a Tesla or EV but I really enjoyed the videos.
Thanks for the video
Great. Thank you
Really interesting thank you
Glad you're making videos! The brake pad rusting to the rotor thing was something that didn't happen on my 2018, 2019, or my new Model Y, but I did own a 2021 M3P for a couple of years that I bought used in late 2022 and it had that happen. I live in Florida so not a dry place (esp during the summer, where it rains every afternoon). My 2021 M3P would get the pads rusting to the rotor after every wash, and the rotors were visibly rusted - something I haven't observed on my other Teslas (though I have had other cars that would get rusty rotors after a wash). Not sure why that used M3P had this happen. My new MYP's rotors don't rust, just like my other Teslas.
That's interesting, Tesla's parts catalog doesn't show that the part numbers have changed on the rotors or pads. Do you drive the others more? Do you use the brake pedal more often in the others to keep the rotors clean? It's possible that your pads are dragging a little so the rotors stay warm, could be that? If you're curious, you're welcome to try to reproduce it in the others using the tow mode and water method I showed in this video, I'd love to hear if they're somehow immune. Thanks for the data point!
@@adamdport As far as behavior goes, no differences really. I generally avoid using the brakes as much as possible, though I know FSD/AP tends to use them more than I would. I'm pretty sure on all of the cars, I can hear the pads rubbing on the rotors at least for a few moments after driving for the first time in a little while. The only thing I can think of is the previous owner of my 2021 tracked the car or did something with it that caused the difference - pretty sure it was a florida car its whole life and only had 8k miles on it when I bought it. My 2018 had 50k on it when I got rid of it in 2022 and our 2019 currently has 58k on it - the 2019 doesn't even have the benefit of the carport I park my cars under, it's always exposed to the rain and such, but never gets rusty rotors either.
This guy is a beast
What a great informative video. Your cars cop a lot of punishment over there from corrosion. I'm in Australia where we (for the most part) have nowhere near the same issues. My 2008 car looks newer than your Model 3.
Just a couple of constructive criticisms I'd like to add to your otherwise great presentation.
- I know you highlighted installing the same type of pads in each axle set, and I highly recommend you do (same type front and rear). I've been down that path and can assure you it can really upset brake bias in heavy braking by having softer and harder compounds.
- Dielectric grease is supposed to be non conductive. Instead use a Battery Terminal protective product as there's many available, and put it on the corroded terminal nut on your negative terminal too.
- The Negative terminal is already normally connected to frame, so shorting it to the frame doesn't matter. However never put a metal tool on the positive terminal of your battery until the negative terminal is disconnected and not touching. That way if you short the positive terminal to frame nothing will happen. Then you just have to ensure that you don't short out the two battery terminals together with the tool.
Keep up the great videos.
Regarding the brake bias of mismatched pads, do you think the imbalance from pads is more than the imbalance from surface rust on the rotors or from a puddle that only hits one side of the car?
Regarding the dielectric grease, I'd encourage you to watch this short (2.5 minutes) testing exactly this: th-cam.com/video/G3_mj0c_-QY/w-d-xo.html If you don't have time now, the takeaway is that dielectric grease does not affect conductivity. If anything, it actually IMPROVES conductivity slightly! If I could film it again I'd apply more to the outside of the connection, but the contact itself is the most important thing to protect imo. My tube specifically calls out battery terminals as one of its intended uses. Does that make sense?
Great tip on the negative terminal, I thought I was surrounded by plastic but there are some metal AC lines right there. Really appreciate you taking the time to share your expertise!
@@adamdport In my experience after replacing only the rear with "performance" pads I had issues where the ABS kicked in early under heavy braking due to change in bias. I replaced the front with the same pads and the problem went away.
A few years later on a different car I was upgrading all the pads and only replaced the rear at first to see if the same thing happened, which it did.
In day to day driving you wont notice it, but under heavy or emergency braking you probably will.
Regarding Dielectric grease, I'm only going by my experience of 39 years as an industrial electrician working on thousands of high current connections. Dielectric grease is used by many people like that, but it's intended purpose is to seal a connection, and not conduct electricity (hence di-electric). The contact should be metal to metal, then apply corrosion inhibitor the outside if needed. It's ok if the terminal is tight, but if it comes loose the dielectric grease will hinder more than help.
10:30 sticking parking brakes have happened all my cars since the 80ies :) My current commute car does it, and it has over 280000km on it, and I have only changed pads once cause of normal wear. I only use the handbrake when parking outside the garage to open it, but when I drive away the day after you still hear that "clonk" sound if they were wet when parked, so you do not need to use parking brake either to make it happen.
My old Jetta would do it sometimes but because the ebrake mechanism would bind up and not allow the spring to release it properly, or the brake hardware's shot and isn't springing the pads away as well as they used to, or the pads themselves need more lube. Lots of stuff can go wrong on older cars, but I didn't expect it from a brand new car!
great vid. liked the longer format very informative (Assume you had jack stands out of frame, Always use jack stands, there is a $0.10 o-ring in the jack keeping it up, toomany have been injured by them failing)
Wondering, if brake blending option, already takes care of cleaning the rotors🤞. Glad to see the brake burnishing in action👍👍. Did walk through menu, but stopped short of using it, since I need to drive in service mode😅. How do you go about brake fluid change? Saw some options in service menu, but wondering, if I still need to use, in case of pressure bleed/fill 🤔❤👍