AR-15 - How To Install A Muzzle Device
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 พ.ค. 2024
- Everyone asks where I find AR-15 stuff in stock or where I order from, so here you are: bit.ly/2trc7Kg
In this video I show you how I install a muzzle device - a flash hider in this case - onto an AR-15 barrel. The tool I am using to install it is the Hammer Head Tool.
Hammer Head Tool: www.hammerheadrifletool.com/Ha...
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drop a quarter in the center slot of a flash hider... helps with alignment.
Ok Mr. “Money Bags”
@@c0mputer seriously who has quarters theses days. Rich bastard
@@---td4ff melted down all of mine for more bullets. Mr. Rentz must be one of those coin Priveledged fellas
@@metaldude55ify goddamn 1% and their quarters 🤣
Is Aeroshell 33 really the best for this job? Wish I'd known that, I would've saved a tube back when I was lubing landing gear. Used to come home completely caked in that crap every night.
There's gotta be an alternate high temp grease.
Even though this is an old video- I have to say that I look for your vids when I have questions on this stuff. Great job- thanks for the help sir.
I am in the process of removing a stock birdcage-style flash hider to replace it with a muzzle compensator. This video really has helped me to understand the basics of getting the new one lined up correctly. The forwards, backwards, forwards process is going to be a great help. Thank you!
How do you like it over the birdcage? Does it make a huge difference?
Excellent advice about tightening to time, not loosening! Thanks for the great video.
Thanks for the video. I just did this for the first time tonight. When I initially hand tightened it, I needed about 270 deg of rotation to get it lined up correctly. I was skeptical as to whether I'd be able to get that much rotation out of the crush washer, but I did like you said, tighten, loosen, repeat, until it went around enough to line up properly.
Some of the folks have asked how to secure the barrel in the vise. I used the Magpul BEV block and it worked quite well.
270? Wow, I was nervous when I had to do one that had to go 180.
Thanks NSZ for the tightening tips and crush washer orientation my flash hider installation went well.
Excellent video. Perfect camera location, straight to the point, 4 min long!
Thank you so much. Just got a muzzle brake for a Remington 700 308 and I have never installed a brake before. Not to mention it’s my first rifle that’s not a youth size
WARNING: anyone doing this, you MUST lock your barrel from turning while doing this. otherwise you can end up turning your barrel, breaking the pin holding it place and knocking your barrel out of alignment which will almost certainly end in a catastrophic failure. Not fun when your bcg releases at 60,000 PSI. You won't have a good time.
Dilly dilly. Geiselle sells a reaction rod for both AR-15 and AR-10s. Brownells has their own version that is cheaper too.
Great advice and video. A tip that would help make it as exact as possible is something I learned when putting barrels on Garand actions. Ensure the upper is perfectly level in the vice. Take a long and straight rod or dowel (a thin, squared-off piece of wood works best) and lay it on the upper receiver T-rail so that the ends of the stick extend out perpendicular to the barrel. Then take a slender rod or stick (a Popsicle stick works, but the longer the better) and slide the stick through the lateral flash hider ports in the A2 birdcage. Stare at the rifle from the muzzle end and look to ensure the two sticks are parallel and tighten as needed to make them exactly parallel. You should approach the final tightness before using this technique, leaving a slight amount of tightening left to achieve a perfect parallel result with the guiding sticks. As you said in the video, you don't want to loosen anything to get the right alignment, you should tighten to get there and then stop when it's good.
That technique works when you really have to make sure it's exact, as with the M1 Garand where the front sight attaches to the barrel on the gas cylinder, so the threaded barrel going into the receiver needs to be as exact as possible. For the A2 birdcage, this kind of precision is not a necessity like it is on a Garand, but it's a technique to use if you really want to make sure it's the best you can make it. Great video, thanks!
Thanks man. I spilt a crush washer trying to put on a muzzle device and I only had one more so I wanted to know how much to torque it but then I realized I didn't have the right tools anyways but it was still a helpful video so thanks for that. I never thought of backing it off and then tightening it in again a few times.
I have always tightened it so that the centerline of the barrel is between two slots with the extra slot on the right. I'm right-handed and this pushes the barrel slightly to the left, compensating for the tendency of the rifle to pull to the right. It also ensures that the flash from the two slots straddles the sight line so you don't look directly at the flash.
excellent informative video sir, i myself was a bit scared to attempt to remove and install a muzzle device on my new ar-15 upper, after watching your video this job appears to be ok for the noob such as my self.
Thanks! I've been building and collecting firearms for many years and you can always learn a new trick, I do it a bit differently, however I think your way is easier. Thanks! Great Videos!!
ColdDead Hands You are welcome :)
Thanks 4 the informative video nsz85,I was looking for proper flash suppressor alignment.
Cheers
Another informative video!
Thanks for the demo. I'll be having to do just that shortly.
Thanks needed a quick reference vid and I cam across you're very helpful
Lol looking forward to it. When i do get an ar some day im sure i will be coming to channel a lot.
Great video. Just what I needed to know. Thanks!
Question how did you hold the barrel a special tool ??? Thank you
Thank you for sharing this information helped a lot.
Man you are on a roll today! Thanks!
I do everything as hard as I can ;)
If you decide to get a suppressor, would you replace the crush washer with shims. Thanks
what do you do with the 3 prong muzzle brake that are designed to look twisted? how is that lined up?
Nice video. By the way, I have a Ruger America and I'm putting one on. Do I have to take it out of the stock to do it?
Thanks for sharing. Very informative. I have a question. Do they make a AR15 A2 birdcage flash hider specifically for a .22LR. Can I use a 223/556 caliber flash hider?
Great video!
Do you use a nylon brush to clean the threads??
Thank you very much, I needed this vid.
What was that green folding multitool sitting in the back?
Thanks man... I wondered how that worked... now I give it a shot :)
Great! I hope this video helped :)
Very helpful, thank you
thanks for that mate, i just bought one of these and was wondering how to get it to line up :)
Woohoo it worked! Thank you.
Is it a bad idea to have a muzzle brake on a .223 AR-15? The SA Saints Edge has one and people complain about how loud it is.
On the threads I use the Permatex Nickel Eaze Anti Seize product for high heat conditions.
Is that an actual gunsmith recommendation?
Also does it matter if its copper and not nickel? Those were interchangeable in a lot of applications. I always wondered about dissimilar metal corrosion with both though.
hey bro i dont mean to be a ball busterbut i was watching the brownell's video on this and their gun guy said the beveled edge of the crush washer should face the muzzle device?I watched that part several times to make sure i was right about his video before coming here?I am about to change out a few of my own from flash hiders to comps because my state laws require it :>/ so i need to know which of your guys are right?lol im a greeny so idk?
Thank you, so very much! That did the trick!
do you need a crush washer to install a muzzle brake?
Great video! Quick question - can you use an anti-seize compound/ grease as opposed to this Aero Shell grease?
Ive used lithium grease, works good as well
Hey NSZ, I received an Ares Armor , 18" barrel for my new build. The gas port is not centered with the nib of the barrel extention. I put on the free float handguard already and also the adjustable gas block. Do you think I should shoot it first to test it for fuction ? Or should I attempt to wrestle with the barrel and extention to straighten them? The port is maybe 1/16" off. Thanks
CBrowning0007 That barrel should go back to the manufacturer.
I go to this video every time I install a flash hider because I can never remember which direction the washer goes on!
Me to! It helps if you have 7 beers!😊
@@cboli9418 😂 love that. Getting my first AR tmmr
Twords the shooter is how i remember it.
Funny! Lol.. i just took mine off for the first time and when i was putting the washer back on i was like, shit! Lol.. which way did this go..😁😁
Can you use copper slip like for car brakes?
Will red and tacky grease work also?
i love your vids!!! I thought that the unported side of the flash suppressor faced down to prevent "down gassing" to decrease muzzle climb? ("up gassing" forces the muzzle of the weapon downward as the bullet passes the end of the flash suppressor). keep up the good work!!
robert denson The ports face up and the closed side faces down.
Thanks. Loved the video.trying to do a build now. Need all the help/advice I can get.
robert denson The A1 flash hider was slotted in all directions and blew too much dust in the air while prone. The A2 flash hider had only 5 ports facing up and to the side to fix that problem. Flash hiders have little compensating effect.
nsz85 I guess the same method for a KX3 knock-off? I've got the thing put on using using the long bar part of a Allen wrench through the slot in the muzzle device. The slot is straight up and down (right where I want it) with quite a bit of torque, but the crush washer isn't "crushed." Does it have to collapse to have a successful install?
Does the crush washer become swagged to the barrel or can it be removed and replaced for another muzzle device. I have a muzzle brake that appears to need to rotate almost a full turn. Will a crush washer crush that much?
I had to go almost a full rotation, so instead of reefing on my barrel, I very carefully ground the washer down on the side of my bench grinder. I removed enough material so I only had to tighten about 30° Works great
thanks so much, big help.
Good stuff. Thanks.
+corona73 You are welcome :)
New subscriber 👍🏽
as a aircraft mechanic I have tons of different aeroshell greases at the shop. Do you know what you used specifically? Because it just looked like antiseize
It essentially is anti-seize. I've used the same stuff for my cars on my rifles before to good effect.
Hell half the time you can just put some grease of whatever variety on the threads and be perfectly fine.
I thought the reason the bottom of muzzle devices were solid or without ports/slots was so the gas being forced up and out keeps the barrel from rising? Gas being forced down besides kicking up sand/dirt/debris while in a prone position would push the up, correct?
Casey G yeah that's rigjt
It would be counter balanced with the top port if there was a port facing the ground. So, the net effect is equal and opposite forces. Having no port on the downward face really helps with debris and a little with rise.
Having an issue installing an ATI Steel Shark on my M&P15 Sport ii... the holes on top aren't facing up as they should .. :(
What's that you out on the threads? What's it for? I have anti sieze and I have lok tight but never heard of what you have. Would either of these do just as well? I'm not sure if your trying to keep from siezing or if you want to lock it down solid
Aeroshell 33MS.
Kendall Phillips he's letting the lock washers do its job. the grease is just to prevent it from sticking on there permanently with some comfort in corrosion prevention...
Righty loosey, lefty tighty. Nice wrench.
is it necessary to replace that crush washer after changing the muzzle brake out with a different one?
SealTeamSuicide
Yes. When dealing with lock washers and crush washers you need to replace them after removing them. Good news. They aren't expensive.
So do I not need to be at 30ft/lbs? If I go to 30 it’s not timed correct but if I go a little less it’s ok
Any tips on what to purchase to lock the gun or barrel down? I have DDM4V11 with a 16" barrel and have another muzzle device to swap out the stock a2 for. Unfortunately, I am not strong enough to remove the stock A2 by hand with a 3/4" wrench. The barrel keeps turning in my hands.
lifeisgood070 I own a ddm4Vll myself, and I tried the same thing. But I learned that they weld and pin their flash hiders . That's why you can't turn it, you might want to have a good gunsmith look at it.
Wheeler makes a very good upper receiver vice block. You can you use the lug for the takedown/pivot pin or the flat top piccatinny rail. I think I paid like $30 for mine at MidwayUSA
I've added a comp to my handgun. It has a crush washer but does not index properly hand tightened. Are you sure the threads on the barrel or the comp won't damage if I tighten it with a tool? A bit afraid it'll mess things up.
It shouldn't index by hand tightening it. You will most certainly need to use a wrench to engage the crush washer and index it properly.
Torque wrench recommended. They aren't that expensive.
Good info with the Arms Guide articles too. I'm installing a standard A2 flash supressor on a 9 mm AR carbine barrel. The A2 needs to be timed about 210 degrees--I know max 45 degrees per tightening. Any comment on how to secure it in the vice? Wood or leather got it. Any concern about deforming the barrel? I reckon not since it is steel. Thanks for the help.
Giselle reaction rod works great. A little pricey but worth the expense. I have it between two pieces of wood in a 3 inch vice. The vice needs to be tightened significantly to avoid the rod/upper assembly from moving but that was more of an issue with the barrel install than what I anticipate with the muzzle device as no torquing is needed and the loosen/tighten methodology NZ85 mentions will be used.
Thanks! I ended up using a wood vice at a local school- oops, sorry about that indention, teacher. That'll sand out right? Anyway, you are right. Wood is good in metal vice. It's good to go now. Happy shooting!
Thank you sire. Yes, mine also installed with no problem at all. It was one of the easiest parts of this first time build for me. Happy shooting!
Can I reuse crush washers from the previous muzzle device or do I need a new crush washer with each device?
You need a new one every install
Would copper brake grease work okay for a substitute for the aeroshell? Thanks
Use anti-seize for spark plugs. If you buy a muzzle device from Aeroprecision that's what they give you in the package for installation. The packet of anti-seize even has a pic of a spark plug on it, like you can get from autozone, O'Reilly's, etc. The packets usually cost like 2 bucks.
Are the threads on the end of the barrel the same size for all AR's? I come from the AK world where we have like 3 different sizes. If I buy a comp device or muzzle brake for an AR I don't need to find out the thread type or anything right,?
Yes you need to know if it's 1/2 x 28 (standard AR15/M4 or 5/8 x 24 (standard AK/AR 10)
Ok, no. They aren't the same size for all ARs. An ar-15 chambered in 9mm (PCC or AR-9 as some call it) is typically threaded in 1/2x28...the same as a standard 5.56 but if you put a 5.56 muzzle device on a 9mm you are going to have a bad time. Just make sure your muzzle device threading matches AND is rated for that cartridge. A non-standard AR-15 chambered in 300BO normally takes the same muzzle devices as an AR-10 chambered in .308.
Thank you!!
Reaper shell? Is that the same thing as copper antisieze?
Would have been worth noting how you had your barrel locked down
geissele reaction rod
v mann between my legs was just fine lol. Not too hard
Kevin Watkins my ass between the legs shit was harder than a b
There are several and some will lock like the one from RealAvid.com called LUGLOK for $79 which will probably be the one I will get since you can lock your barrel in multiple angles.
Just saw a video about about several tools from them to work on AR’s and was impressed. Just getting into building my first AR and I know some people will probably just laugh and say you don’t need all that stuff but I like to work in a real clean environment and I’m pretty sure this won’t be the only AR I will ever build. I hear it’s contagious and you can’t stop. I hope so....
This is so important, easy to knock your barrel out of alignment and get a catastrophic failure if you install a muzzle device without stopping the barrel from turning. Not fun when your bcg releases at 60,000 PSI. You won't have a good time.
This video is dangerous not mentioning to lock down the barrel at all.
i have a dpms panther ar-15. my question is what do i have to change out on my weapon in order to use the 300 blackout ammo. thank you.
Buy a 300 blackout upper and replace the 5.56 upper you have on your lower. Search out a video on changing your uppers on an ar-15.
If you are intending to re-use the parts on your upper, you will need a new barrel and a new muzzle device that matches your barrel thread. You can reuse your gas block if it is of the same journal. You can reuse your gas tube if it is of the same length as your first barrel. You can reuse your rail, upper, bolt carrier group, charging handle, and your entire lower. You may need to flip out your buffer for a different weight but probably not. So as long as you match up your barrel to your current gas block, all you will need is a new barrel and new muzzle device matching your barrel (Normally threaded in 5/8x24TPI). Here is the kicker: you will need to obtain tooling which includes a torque wrench for the barrel (30-80 ft.lbs) and muzzle device (manufacturer's torque usually around 25 ft.lbs), grease for the barrel, grease or rocksett for the muzzle device, headspace gauges for 300 blackout for safety reasons, and tooling for removing the ejector and extractor during your headspace check. After everything is said and done, you will probably find it easier to go with Brian H's idea to just buy a new upper outright.
Do you still like your CRD?
My crush washer seemed to flatten wider than the muzzle brake which I haven't seen before. I don't know why it did that. Also it seems to not be centered, it's more to the right than left as well.
Do you know why it did that?
Crush washers naturally expand as they get crushed. They flair outward. I'd recommend a torque wrench, NEW crush washer, crow's foot and a shim kit along with whatever thermal adhesive or grease you were using.
🏆🍻🍻🍻.
Your work has been the only one that I have seen to confirm that you were timed correctly.
Can someone explain how the whole tightening/loosening works? Is it flexing the crush washer and making it easier to tighten? And also, nsz85, were you using a barrel vise?
I think he is crushing the crush washer a little at a time.
Or stretching the threads
it is a combination of both.
thats why a crush washer is best , it crushes with force a bit at a time ..
no threads are being streched at all that i am awahere of. good question
very helpful
Simple, thank you
best vid on instal
thx
Be aware the Hammerhead wrench will not fit over a KAK Shockwave tube. I found out the hard way. Many people use the KAK tube along with the Blade on their AR pistol. I emailed the wrench company letting them know they should have this limitation on their website but they have not responded.
Between 3:15 and 3:23 it looks like there is a shim there? Did you use a shim kit?
+threehundredw inmag No.
For flash hiders, compensators, muzzle brakes (not "break"), you must secure the barrel. DO NOT USE an action block for this. If you do, the barrel will twist in the receiver, and the index pin on top of the barrel will dig into the index slot in the receiver and the front sight base will be canted to the shooter's left. By the same token, when mounting a barrel to the receiver, DO NOT USE barrel vise jaws. When the barrel nut is tightened the receiver will be twisted against the barrel's index pin and the front sight base will be canted to to the shooter's right. Always use vise jaws for muzzle devices, and always use an action block for mounting barrels.
an action block (midwest) acts as an extension of the barrel, does it not? As it fits into the barrel extension itself, so be being held in the vise it really acts like a barrel vise (with torque stress on the barrel extension teeth)? This is how it was explained to me by the people at brownells. Im still trying understanding it all. so you're saying to buy a vise that clamps over the outside of the barrel instead? (whereas the midwest action block locks into the inside). So really its inside vs outside clamping?
@@colterdoerr6227 A "reaction rod" fits into the barrel extension. Most action blocks I have seen (and I own two different ones) do not. The device I was talking about is barrel vise jaws. They come as two L cross section vise jaws that have cutouts to fit small dia. and large dia. barrels. These are used to clamp on to the barrel itself. This way any torque applied to the muzzle device is isolated only to itself and the barrel. It can't twist the barrel in the receiver or unscrew the extension. I've done this for more than 30 years. One last tip... when using an action block, remember to use the receiver insert or a bolt carrier inside the receiver so that you do not bend the sides of the receiver.
I am about to install a VG6 GAMMA 762 on my Aero M5E1. I bought a VISM AR-10/LR-308 Upper Receiver Block for the install of this brake.... do you think this is safe for my install?
@@bolriconyc3795 No. You will likely twist the barrel in the receiver. You must use a barrel vise.
Are there different sizes of crush washers? Who do I know what size to get?
I assume aero shell is the same thing as anti seize compound.
Yep. Auto zone 2$.
@@BADD1ONE I would rather use silver anti-seize that can handle high temps like you find on automotive.
Muzzle loader CVA anti seize stick.
Aeroshell 33 is made for aircraft. Primarily the landing gear. Its high temp grease but I'm not sure its rated for the heat levels generated when shooting. I would think theres better compounds you cound use like some kind if antilock that would work with fine threads and prevent corrosion.
what brand wrench is this , Hammer head tool ? I cant find it online ? thanks
+totljag1 It is the first Google result: hammerheadrifletool.com/
Lol i laughed when he said a little aeroshell i also came from the barrel install vid
what is the thread pitch of your AR? Are all ARs the same thread pitch? I have a Smith & Wesson M&P 15 sport and I am in the process of getting a Mystic X suppressor. thanks in advance :-)
pretty std on 556: 1/2 by 28
Thanks, that is what I thought but I heard that some are 5/8 X 24. Have a great week!
5/8 are mostly 308 and 300blk
Where do we get that no go gauge you used at the end?
Can't tell if this is a joke or not. He is just using a quick-release pin which is generic and certainly not a no-go gauge. You can use anything straight. I usually slap a quarter in the center part of the muzzle device if it fits and look at it all the way down to where the gas tube enters the upper. Then again, I also use rocksett which is nearly the opposite of aeroshell grease.
Whats the best way to install the classic vietnam era 3 prong version?
You have to use a special wrench which you can purchase here: www.innovativeindustriesllc.com/products/ar-15-combo-wrench
nice, can you do one on the match style breaks , im having issues trying to install mine without damaging it
The only other one I have is my BattleComp 1.0 and I installed it the exact same way.
interesting
Great now I can paint my flash hider orange
+Samuel Mitchell Why? Do you want the cops to think you have an air soft or toy?
+Don Remley yeah that was the joke. I am not really doing that
Glad to hear that!!
😂...
Sammitch thanks for this, exactly the information and instruction I was looking for. Well delivered
Can you use a normal wrench on replacing the muzzle device?
yes, just has to fit
Torque wrench and crow's foot is the best way. YOU CAN OVER-TORQUE STEEL THREADS. (from experience)
My 10/22 muzzle flasher came with a crush ring?
Do I need it? Believe it's for a 233/556 so not sure why they sent it with?
From DB tactical
yes, open cone face pointing outwards. Get a few as they recommend one time use.
@@johnzarollin2749 thank you 🍻
no matter how hard i try to get with in at least half a turn before i have to start using a wrench i can't get there. i get stuck at 3/4 of a turn before i need a wrench is that much ok? i see here you were just under half a turn until it was set.
my flash hider needs to be tightened a little more to be straight would it be safe to do so?
+cjm767 It should be fine, taking it all the way off and putting an antiseize on would be good to do just for insurance.
Thanks!
How hard is it to tigheten it down, do you need a wise for that? I need to install my Muzzle brake but don't have a vise.
I would absolutely recommend a vise.
Way easier than I thought
what tread is that? 1/2x28?
Shame on AIM sports they refused to pay for shipment regarding their defective wrench. I even spoke to the general manager he mentioned how their policy is no different than any other company. On the other hand Wheeler called me and said, you have our old style wrench, we are going to ship you free of charge our new wrench that has the comp tool. Wheeler has a customer for life. AIM sports needs to learn one principle do to others as you would have them do to you.
Thanks, I had to check the direction of a crush washer.
Ebay also has Aeroshell in small quanities.
very nice...I just go for it until indexed with a 3/4" wrench. That crush washer will require significant torque. The Geissele reaction rod is invaluable for this. Also I use permatex anti-seize. There are no dissimilar metals here, just steel on steel. I saw a video where a fellow uses a torque wrench for this. Made me chuckle.
Can you also use anti seize on your barrel nut?
Yes you could use it. That's what I used to install a new barrel and put it on the threads of the upper and barrel nut.
ybrik5 thanks.
That tool is for noobs. Use a damn wrench. Those universal jobbers are trash
I am installing the same device as you show in this video. As I turn it on by hand till it stops, it is just slightly past where it needs to be indexed. Quite honestly, there is no way I will be able to get another nearly full turn out of it. Even using the same technique of tightening and loosening, there is still no way I will be able to get that much rotation without breaking something. Can I use shims or are shims available for this?
You will need to try a different crush washer or use a peel washer. Gemtech also makes shims but you will need to apply rocksette.
John Gilson If you are willing to do this method I assure you it will work. Take some sandpaper put it on a flat surface. Then place the flat part of the washer that will touch the barrel not the flash hider and rub it in small circles so that it is evenly sanded. After every few circles (you be the judge of how many due to the grit of sandpaper used) put it on the gun and see how close you are and how much more it will need to go. I can tell you from experience it shouldn't take much to make a full revolution.
Thanks, I will remember this for future reference. It certainly sounds like an idea that would work. I ended up using a peel washer which worked in this case.
5/8 x 24 thread means one revolution is slightly over .041" Have you ever used a vernier or micrometer to see how much material you removed using this method?
That would be for a .308 or 7.62mm