@@mikemassey7458 Lapping the upper receiver face has nothing to do with providing inside clearance of the upper receiver I.D. In fact you need a custom lapping tool to lap a thermal fit upper.. These are called thermal fit uppers, which require heat to install and remove the barrel. Beating a barrel in or out of the upper receiver with these types of uppers is the incorrect way to install or remove a barrel..Using a map gas torch is the correct method. Lapping the upper receiver face will move the barrel further into the upper receiver, which can allow the barrels feed ramps to over hang the upper receivers feed ramps, requiring feed ramp work.
I like JP’s instructions. Secure the barrel in a stable position the heat the end of the receiver with a torch for a few rotations then quickly slide it onto the barrel extension.
Takes bravery to post this barrel seating. Nice work. Freezing the barrel can make a huge difference. This is the channel where i built my first two. Thanks dude
When you beat the barrel in, the tension is transferred down to the block retaining pins - upper receiver take down pin holes = aluminum. If you beat too hard, you will expand or damage them. That's a tight barrel fit = good thing. Another way is to put barrel in vice, wood clamp, hold upper receiver in hands nut threads rotating them direct on propane flame for 5-6 turns and then take slide strait on to barrel extension not stopping. Let it sit for 15 seconds, cools shrinks and you are done, torque to 50lbs.
Three thoughts. First, the torque lubricant should always be applied to the shoulder of the barrel as well as the threads. The concern about putting force on the locating pin while using an upper receiver holding fixture is largely from lack of lubrication on the shoulder. Second, for those who work on other firearms there is no need to buy an action rod if one has a good barrel vise. I have a Wheeler vise with oak blocks that can be cut to fit most any barrel. It also makes a great vise to hold an AR flat top upper between the blocks. Third and final, the heat used was way too little. A firearm is designed handle heat considerably above boiling point. Heat until spit sizzles. And start with the barrel cold, after spending a couple of hours in the freezer. Just work fast and it will slide right in without a hammer. If not, the barrel extension needs some light work with some medium fine wet or dry sandpaper.
I agree with the barrel vise approach 100%. Putting the receiver in a vise always bothered me. Clamping an aluminum receiver into a vise just rubs me the wrong way, then add the force of torque from tightening the barrel nut. Yikes! People get all anal about bedding in the barrel extension, shimming, etc. etc but completely disregard all the force they are putting on a soft aluminum receiver, potentially twisting and deforming it, maybe not by much, but just enough.
Once you have the barrel partially in the upper and apply more heat you are also expanding the barrel extension. Get the upper warm enough first off, don't rush into introducing the barrel!
Great vid, More time consuming method here but Try throwing your barrel in the freezer for an hour, heat up the upper 10 min before pullin the barrel out. Grab the barrel before the upper cools off and slide it. Might get a little resistance. Worked every time for me
I've always heard when using torque wrench you don't want to torque towards the adapter, you want the adapter to trail behind the wrench. Torque towards adapter is said to add ft lbs without reading that its adding whereas trailing is not subtracting anything
It's not that unusual, there's quite a few that have tolerances that tight and you have to thermo fit. I don't think I would've banged away on it, I use a torch instead of a heat gun. To remove you do the same, put receiver in a block, run the torch around it, and use a 1inch dowel to put through the receiver and knock the barrel out.
Great vids, thanks! I've come across several. Just quick FYI - if you heat receiver while barrel is in it, you are heating/expanding both, therefor cancelling the effect. Heat only receiver and keep barrel cold.
First video I see using the proper tools and torque everything correctly. I just ordered a gieselle reaction rod to do the job properly. I will need to index my muzzle brake as well.
I put mine in the freezer and the complete upper in the oven for like 200°4 like 45 mins. It'll go right in blithering know you're probably alot more experienced than me , but anytime you have any torque wrench with a socket, the socket or specialty tool like yours the it should be pointed straight if not you are actually applying more torque to the nut or bolt, because the torque wrench is having to bypass that original amout of pressure to meet the pressure setting that's on the torque wrench, I mean this in the most respectful way, I've been an automotive tech for 20 pls yrs,and built a few ars one chambered in 223 and andanother in 762x39 and have broke plenty of bolts when I was younger due to this, I hope this helps, God bless
Yep, the Geissele will hide uppers where the lugs are out of alignment with the gas key guide / charging handle track in the upper. The MW has a, "sail" on the top that enforces that orientation of the locking lugs. That MW bar actually alerted me to an out of spec upper which kicked off a hellish series of events. Without the sail there you could mount everything up but the feed ramps would reveal that the indexing was off ever so slightly...not good as the locking lugs on the bolt would be crashing every time it went into battery. It's also a hell of a lot cheaper, better...and cheaper, what more could you want?
Put the barrel in the freezer overnight, heat the upper and then fit the cold barrel. I bet it would slip in very easy with room to spare. Its a diesel mechanics trick to fit wrist pins in Cummins engines pistons.
Watched your channel before but just subbed. Your videos on AR rifles is very good. I am an old hillbilly new to AR platform rifles. Your videos are a great service to me. Thanks
All my parts will be here in few days. My first AR build. I see you choose to not lap the upper or use loctite 609 or 620. My Hanson barrel and Ballistics Advantage upper fit perfect by hand. I may forego the lapping.
Freeze the barrel too it helps. I’ve had a JP gas block be so tight I couldn’t get it on a white oak barrel. Froze the barrel, heat gun the gas block and it popped right on.😂
I used the momentum method. Mega Arms upper. I used my anti sieze stick. Then I dropped the back of the upper on the carpeted floor. It slid in under its own weight.
Hate to rain on a parade, but you torqued that barrel nut to more than 50 ft. lbs. When using an extension, as you did with the "crows foot" attachment, additional leverage is applied. Therefore, the final torque is determined using this method: M1 = M2 x L1/L2. Whereas M1 is the torque setting. M2 is the actual torque applied (the part you don't yet know and is certainly more than 50 ft. lbs). L1 is the length of the measurement device (torque wrench) from the center of the hand position to the center of the male "drive". And L2 is L1 plus the additional length of the crows foot. This is essential to know how to calculate. Barrel nuts and other fasteners, not just on firearms, are over torqued everywhere because of failure to know and apply this rule.
@@evey0259 you are correct BUT if you also want to accurize your setup by tuning the barrel harmonics, knowing the torque setting helps. Say you like to handload or a specific match ammo. You take that particular load and you start at 30 ft lbs. Shoot a group then clean your barrel. Then you increase the torque at 40 ft lbs and shoot a group. Did you see your group size shrink? If yes, try 42 ft lbs. So on so forth. Its a tedious process but youre looking for a torque setting on a particular ammo spec to produce the tightest groups.
Has anyone ever just applied anti-seize , grabbed a steel barrel nut , and torqued it down until it hits solid , I did that with a very tight fitting Bravo Co. upper , worked flawless as long as it goes at least half way on to start .
The Midwest Industries upper receiver rod is better than the Geissele reaction rod, it has a solid bar on top that rides in the charging handle groove that keeps the receiver drom trying to turn.
@@pmorin313 Yeah this is how I do it. I've had to restart this procedure before. You put the upper over the edge of the bench registering off of the gas tube / pic rail area as and abutment and beat it out the end of the gun using a hammer. I usually toss a bucket under it with a towel to catch it when the barrel falls out. You have to dig out bits of wood from the lugs and such but wood Vs metal no damage is going to occur other than to the dowel.
I don’t work on guns, but I work on cars. Just wondering if you could’ve put the barrel nut on and tighten it the rest of the way and if that’s not an option, throw the barrel in a freezer and heat the thread up and it should slide right in, use this method a lot with joints
I always stick my barrel in the freezer overnight and use a propane torch to heat the receiver up two or three times more than he did. Don't go nuts just heat it up for 30 to 45 secs and that's all you need. I also clean the barrel and inside the receiver completely so they will stick to each other and not move around when fired. One more tip, never go above 50 Ft. Lbs. on your barrel nut, 35 Ft. Lbs. is just fine, and I have found that 35 lbs. produces a better grouping rifle.
Hello, thanks for your advice. I'm building an ar pistol, could you elaborate a bit further on why 35ft lbs has better grouping than 50ft lbs?! Please and Thank You 😊
@@thomasj396a thin coat of aeroshell 33 on the barrel extension won't hurt. Although once you apply heat the barrel goes in pretty easy....just be quick, it cools fast!
Beating it in with a hammer is not neccesary if you put the heat gun on the upper for a good 3 minutes straight put it right to it, put your greese on the barrel extension and then it will slide right in, I do this with BCM uppers which are very tight. You can see in this video he did not heat the upper long enough.
What if you put the barrel in ref to chill out for a bit and then heat up the upper receiver? Works great when doing bearing swaps on small r/c engines.
That's a thermal fit upper..... you're supposed to use a torch not a wimpy heat gun...... NOBODY should use any of the advice given in this video except use aeroshell
Last weekend i installed a barrel in a BCM upper. Never again will i use BCM. Not because they're not good but they're super tight. I put the barrel in the freezer overnight, heated the upper prior to the install, and lubed the barrel extension with grease. I could only get it about 3/4 of the way by hand. It took about 20min of heating and beating the shit out of it with a rubber mallet to get it to seat. Should not be that hard.
if I were to use a blowtorch how long should i blast the receiver threads to heat it up and expand it? my radian upper does not want to seat my barrel.
I have 3 receiver sets that are extremely tight to get the barrel in and just got a 4th. Not looking forward to installing the barrel. Last time I froze the barrel, used torch on the upper and used grease and it still took quite a bit of force.
I have been using BCM uppers and yes they are crazy tight. Used heat on receiver and froze the barrel but the last time used steel wool to take off some of the phosphate on the barrel extension. FN has a thick phosphate ,Geissele and DD not so much.
Those are called a thermal fit. Use a map gas torch and the barrels will slide right in and out..No need to freeze the barrel. You should also coat the barrel extension with 620 green loctite to bed the barrel to the upper after you lap the face of the upper receiver..Be sure to check the barrel's feed ramps don't over extend the upper receiver feed ramps or you will need to do feed ramp work..
Shim and gap filler. The barrel nut does not do the same thing. The point of the tight fit even with the barrel nut is to create favorable barrel harmonics. When you fire a round with a loose barrel, even with a barrel nut there are collisions between the barrel extension and the inside of the upper receiver. Imagine a tuning fork that is held loosely by a vise, vs a tuning fork held tighty welded onto the vise. They will exhibit different harmonics. With a tight fit, the only variable will be the torque on the barrel nut to affect a frequency favorable for tighter groups.
Quick question, i installed my barrel to my upper receiver and its doing the same thing. But i got a qrb so i have to put it in and take it out all the time..i see you used a heat gun. Will that same method work on mine since i will be installing and uninstalling all the time....
You are heating the The receiver and the barrel at the same time would have been much better if you had put the barrel in the back of the freezer for a little while and then after a little while heat up the receiver take the barrel out of the freezer and it will go right in without any grease or anything
I’ve only built 4 ar15s so far but my barrels have never been this hard to put in .. like mine was the perfect fit , slid in and out like butter… how dare u beat ur barrel in like that.. lol that was hardcore , is that normal for barrels that need to be smashed in like that? It made me think idk like it possibly wasn’t the right size or something? Idk maybe I’ll come across a tight barrel someday lol I am a major beginner so who knows 🤷♂️ not me 😋
i know im late to the party here, I just got my Larue gun kit, and my barrel slides into my upper with no force. i can slide it in and out with my hand. is this a bad thing?
I think that upper and /or barrel are a bit out of spec. I've put dozens of barrels on and never had one that was that hard to put into the receiver. As a matter of fact they all just slid right in with barely any effort.
A lot of higher end receivers are this tight, Zev/Mega are prime examples. If you call them they'll flat out tell you it's a thermal fit...you freeze the barrel and heat the upper or it ain't going on and you almost always have to beat em on. For me I chuck the barrel in a vise with plastic jaws and then beat the receiver onto the barrel at the very back.
And just like that, thousands of people learned how to do this the WRONG way. You don't grease the two machined surfaces. It adds to the tolerance and makes it tighter. No wonder you are hammering the shit out of it. LMAO.
🎼🎶 Just beat iiit, beat iiit, get your hammer out and , beat iiit. You don't have to worry, you don't have to fight. Get your dead blow hammer and wack with all your might. Just beat iit. Ugh!!👏👏👏
There are many tricks used to seat tight barrels. This is a method that I use that works for me. You may choose to do it how you prefer.
I find lapping the face of the reciever also provides some clearance on inside of reciever
@@mikemassey7458 Lapping the upper receiver face has nothing to do with providing inside clearance of the upper receiver I.D. In fact you need a custom lapping tool to lap a thermal fit upper.. These are called thermal fit uppers, which require heat to install and remove the barrel. Beating a barrel in or out of the upper receiver with these types of uppers is the incorrect way to install or remove a barrel..Using a map gas torch is the correct method. Lapping the upper receiver face will move the barrel further into the upper receiver, which can allow the barrels feed ramps to over hang the upper receivers feed ramps, requiring feed ramp work.
@@hairydogstail put the barrel in the freezer the night before install. use map gap on receiver. it will slide together like butter.
Im sorry but if you are having to bash it with a hammer for that long than its not “working”
@@Modsnake98 BUT, BUT, He's built a lot of rifles, LMAO.
I like JP’s instructions. Secure the barrel in a stable position the heat the end of the receiver with a torch for a few rotations then quickly slide it onto the barrel extension.
Torch would work much better.
Idk. I put my upper in an oven. Nice even heat, no hurry and scurry.
Sounds crazy but throw the barrel in the freezer for a few hours, the cold makes the metal shrink a bit and it helps
in the freezer it’ll put water in your barrel not good
@@Ericczz that’s what the protective finishes and grease are for
@@Ericczz HAHAHAHAHHA. STFU. Jesus people say some stupid shit. Better pull all the troops out of Alaska.
Worked for my first build.
@@Ericczz literally just nitro the barrel afterwords then oil.
Takes bravery to post this barrel seating. Nice work. Freezing the barrel can make a huge difference. This is the channel where i built my first two. Thanks dude
When you beat the barrel in, the tension is transferred down to the block retaining pins - upper receiver take down pin holes = aluminum. If you beat too hard, you will expand or damage them. That's a tight barrel fit = good thing. Another way is to put barrel in vice, wood clamp, hold upper receiver in hands nut threads rotating them direct on propane flame for 5-6 turns and then take slide strait on to barrel extension not stopping. Let it sit for 15 seconds, cools shrinks and you are done, torque to 50lbs.
That's why a barrel vise is a better holding tool than some clamp /vise of the receiver.
Three thoughts. First, the torque lubricant should always be applied to the shoulder of the barrel as well as the threads. The concern about putting force on the locating pin while using an upper receiver holding fixture is largely from lack of lubrication on the shoulder. Second, for those who work on other firearms there is no need to buy an action rod if one has a good barrel vise. I have a Wheeler vise with oak blocks that can be cut to fit most any barrel. It also makes a great vise to hold an AR flat top upper between the blocks. Third and final, the heat used was way too little. A firearm is designed handle heat considerably above boiling point. Heat until spit sizzles. And start with the barrel cold, after spending a couple of hours in the freezer. Just work fast and it will slide right in without a hammer. If not, the barrel extension needs some light work with some medium fine wet or dry sandpaper.
I was gonna say that. Heat the upper hot while hving the barrel in the freezer
I agree with the barrel vise approach 100%. Putting the receiver in a vise always bothered me. Clamping an aluminum receiver into a vise just rubs me the wrong way, then add the force of torque from tightening the barrel nut. Yikes! People get all anal about bedding in the barrel extension, shimming, etc. etc but completely disregard all the force they are putting on a soft aluminum receiver, potentially twisting and deforming it, maybe not by much, but just enough.
Once you have the barrel partially in the upper and apply more heat you are also expanding the barrel extension. Get the upper warm enough first off, don't rush into introducing the barrel!
Great vid, More time consuming method here but Try throwing your barrel in the freezer for an hour, heat up the upper 10 min before pullin the barrel out. Grab the barrel before the upper cools off and slide it. Might get a little resistance. Worked every time for me
But how do you remove that barrel in future?
How do you heat the upper?
@@romang6437 By the time you need a new barrel, just buy a new upper with it.
Friendly mechanic advice. Don't double snap the torque wrench. Once it breaks the first time, your done.
Cool down the barrel extension and heat up the upper receiver threads with a torch youre done in less than 15 mins
I've always heard when using torque wrench you don't want to torque towards the adapter, you want the adapter to trail behind the wrench. Torque towards adapter is said to add ft lbs without reading that its adding whereas trailing is not subtracting anything
Wow. Never had a barrel that tight. Pretty unusual, but great video. Thanks.
That's what I was thinking. I've installed some tight barrels but nothing like this. Glad to see its okay to pound on it like that.
Zev uppers are also tight so we now put the upper in the oven on warm for 30 minutes and the barrel slides in
@@williambader1425 good tip
It's not that unusual, there's quite a few that have tolerances that tight and you have to thermo fit. I don't think I would've banged away on it, I use a torch instead of a heat gun.
To remove you do the same, put receiver in a block, run the torch around it, and use a 1inch dowel to put through the receiver and knock the barrel out.
@@jordansprad good to know. Installed quite a few, of different manufacturers, and never incountered this. But I agree with your torch method.
That is the tightest barrel I have ever seen!
If you use MAP Gas it will work a whole lot quicker and a whole lot better to thermal fit a barrel to an upper. It won't damage anything.
So nice to see you making vids again.
A hair dryer for 4 minutes on high solved it for me! Thanks so much! Great vid
Great vids, thanks! I've come across several. Just quick FYI - if you heat receiver while barrel is in it, you are heating/expanding both, therefor cancelling the effect. Heat only receiver and keep barrel cold.
The Aluminum expands faster & the fool should have used MAPP GAS NOT A STUPID HEAT GUN.
I just purchased the gas block pin tool, I do believe it will make life so much easier installing the pin into the gas block. Thank you!
It is small but makes a HUGE difference. Sometimes having the right tools just make everything easier.
First video I see using the proper tools and torque everything correctly. I just ordered a gieselle reaction rod to do the job properly. I will need to index my muzzle brake as well.
I put mine in the freezer and the complete upper in the oven for like 200°4 like 45 mins. It'll go right in blithering know you're probably alot more experienced than me , but anytime you have any torque wrench with a socket, the socket or specialty tool like yours the it should be pointed straight if not you are actually applying more torque to the nut or bolt, because the torque wrench is having to bypass that original amout of pressure to meet the pressure setting that's on the torque wrench, I mean this in the most respectful way, I've been an automotive tech for 20 pls yrs,and built a few ars one chambered in 223 and andanother in 762x39 and have broke plenty of bolts when I was younger due to this, I hope this helps, God bless
Midwest industries has a much better reaction rod than the Geissele.
Yup. 👍👍
Good to know
200$👀
Yep, the Geissele will hide uppers where the lugs are out of alignment with the gas key guide / charging handle track in the upper. The MW has a, "sail" on the top that enforces that orientation of the locking lugs. That MW bar actually alerted me to an out of spec upper which kicked off a hellish series of events. Without the sail there you could mount everything up but the feed ramps would reveal that the indexing was off ever so slightly...not good as the locking lugs on the bolt would be crashing every time it went into battery. It's also a hell of a lot cheaper, better...and cheaper, what more could you want?
@@1986subway i got both the .308 and the ar15 reaction rods for 175 at Primary Arms
Put the barrel in the freezer overnight, heat the upper and then fit the cold barrel. I bet it would slip in very easy with room to spare. Its a diesel mechanics trick to fit wrist pins in Cummins engines pistons.
I was a gunsmith in the army never dod I ever have to force a barrell in but this is good info
Ikr. He should have used the heat .
That's because the military uses rifles/parts that meet the TDP spec and tolerances..
@@hairydogstailWhat is TDP?
@@jerryparker5137 Technical Data Package..
I have tried several different methods of clamping or capturing the upper receiver or barrel. Geissele reaction rod is my favorite by far!
Watched your channel before but just subbed. Your videos on AR rifles is very good. I am an old hillbilly new to AR platform rifles. Your videos are a great service to me. Thanks
Use a mapp torch and it will slide right in. This is called a thermal fit..
All my parts will be here in few days. My first AR build. I see you choose to not lap the upper or use loctite 609 or 620. My Hanson barrel and Ballistics Advantage upper fit perfect by hand. I may forego the lapping.
JP enterprise uses barrel in vise and hand rotate the receiver 6 times next to a torch then slide on. Slides on easily
Many do 10/22 barrels this way too. Some guys put barrels in the freezer overnight and then heat the receiver on install
Two years late to the comment section.... Use a gas torch to heat up the upper receiver barrel extension.
You can also put your barrel in the freezer then put it in it works the same as the heating.
Freeze the barrel too it helps. I’ve had a JP gas block be so tight I couldn’t get it on a white oak barrel. Froze the barrel, heat gun the gas block and it popped right on.😂
That's putting a lot of pressure on those takedown pin holes.
Yup. That's why receiver clamps/ jigs are garbage. Get a good barrel vise. The barrel is steel, the receiver is aluminum. Do the math, lol!
I used the momentum method. Mega Arms upper. I used my anti sieze stick. Then I dropped the back of the upper on the carpeted floor. It slid in under its own weight.
I just had Aero Precision mention that with their enhanced upper, and also stating no grease was needed.
Hate to rain on a parade, but you torqued that barrel nut to more than 50 ft. lbs. When using an extension, as you did with the "crows foot" attachment, additional leverage is applied. Therefore, the final torque is determined using this method: M1 = M2 x L1/L2. Whereas M1 is the torque setting. M2 is the actual torque applied (the part you don't yet know and is certainly more than 50 ft. lbs). L1 is the length of the measurement device (torque wrench) from the center of the hand position to the center of the male "drive". And L2 is L1 plus the additional length of the crows foot. This is essential to know how to calculate. Barrel nuts and other fasteners, not just on firearms, are over torqued everywhere because of failure to know and apply this rule.
Torque spec is 30-80 ft/lbs. It legitimately does not matter.
@@evey0259 you are correct BUT if you also want to accurize your setup by tuning the barrel harmonics, knowing the torque setting helps. Say you like to handload or a specific match ammo. You take that particular load and you start at 30 ft lbs. Shoot a group then clean your barrel. Then you increase the torque at 40 ft lbs and shoot a group. Did you see your group size shrink? If yes, try 42 ft lbs. So on so forth. Its a tedious process but youre looking for a torque setting on a particular ammo spec to produce the tightest groups.
I have a craftsman Torque wratchet. How much should I set it to to get the ideal ft lbs??
Has anyone ever just applied anti-seize , grabbed a steel barrel nut , and torqued it down until it hits solid , I did that with a very tight fitting Bravo Co. upper , worked flawless as long as it goes at least half way on to start .
Don't use anti-seize, use Aeroshell 64..No need to over torque the barrel, it is counter productive past 50 to 60 ftlbs..
More and more videos. Keep it up.
May I suggest a rubber mallot and set it upright on the floor.
Obsidian Arms also makes exact same HDPE block just bought one nice to have.
The Midwest Industries upper receiver rod is better than the Geissele reaction rod, it has a solid bar on top that rides in the charging handle groove that keeps the receiver drom trying to turn.
Use a good barrel vise.
Mine was loose as shit I just tightened without the vice. Thanks PSA
LMAO
And lets also add heating up the upper with gease in it only makes the grease sticky.. This is wrong in so many ways. SMH
Can you also do a video of removing a thermal fit barrel? Really enjoy your videos, very informative in case I ever have to replace a barrel.
JP enterprise has a video demonstrating this using a one inch wooden dowel rod
@@pmorin313 Yeah this is how I do it. I've had to restart this procedure before. You put the upper over the edge of the bench registering off of the gas tube / pic rail area as and abutment and beat it out the end of the gun using a hammer. I usually toss a bucket under it with a towel to catch it when the barrel falls out. You have to dig out bits of wood from the lugs and such but wood Vs metal no damage is going to occur other than to the dowel.
I don’t work on guns, but I work on cars. Just wondering if you could’ve put the barrel nut on and tighten it the rest of the way and if that’s not an option, throw the barrel in a freezer and heat the thread up and it should slide right in, use this method a lot with joints
Add heat to the upper and it will slide right in..
Great vid. Thanks
Great video thanks for this!
All could be solved by putting the reciever in the oven and barrel in freezer. Will slip right together. No beating involved
I always stick my barrel in the freezer overnight and use a propane torch to heat the receiver up two or three times more than he did. Don't go nuts just heat it up for 30 to 45 secs and that's all you need. I also clean the barrel and inside the receiver completely so they will stick to each other and not move around when fired. One more tip, never go above 50 Ft. Lbs. on your barrel nut, 35 Ft. Lbs. is just fine, and I have found that 35 lbs. produces a better grouping rifle.
Hello, thanks for your advice. I'm building an ar pistol, could you elaborate a bit further on why 35ft lbs has better grouping than 50ft lbs?! Please and Thank You 😊
I see your Fightmaster Firearms sticker. Good videos by the way
So I’m assuming that you’re never ever ever going to take that barrel out of that receiver? Lol 😂
Heat the upper around the barrel with map torch for about 4 seconds and it will slide right out..
Its easier if ya do it with the barrel locked into the vice and heat the upper while holding it in your hand....BCM uppers are notoriously tight
That's because they are thermal fit, you put a torch on it for 3 seconds and it will slide right in
@@apb2887 I know, I've built 2 rifles using BCM uppers, I eluded to that in my comment 👍🏻
@@pmorin313 do you use still use grease or will it melt?
@@thomasj396a thin coat of aeroshell 33 on the barrel extension won't hurt. Although once you apply heat the barrel goes in pretty easy....just be quick, it cools fast!
@@pmorin313 i bought a bcm upper, we use a little propane torch at work for heating sleeves
Wow finally an upload! great.
Good video thanx for making it
Beating it in with a hammer is not neccesary if you put the heat gun on the upper for a good 3 minutes straight put it right to it, put your greese on the barrel extension and then it will slide right in, I do this with BCM uppers which are very tight.
You can see in this video he did not heat the upper long enough.
What if you put the barrel in ref to chill out for a bit and then heat up the upper receiver? Works great when doing bearing swaps on small r/c engines.
Yeah! Im just going to pretend I didn't see this video.
Thank you for the info...
That's more than 50 lb with the extension/adaptor on there. Probably fine though.
No grease? How times have changed…
...or tap it with rawhide mallet..
Hallo Tight fit on barrel and box good for accuracy
That's a thermal fit upper..... you're supposed to use a torch not a wimpy heat gun...... NOBODY should use any of the advice given in this video except use aeroshell
Yup, a mapp torch will heat up in no time and the barrel will slide right in.. Cringe moment when he pounds on the barrel..
heated up my oven turned it off put upper in there let it get hot and the previously tight barrel slipped right in.
Last weekend i installed a barrel in a BCM upper. Never again will i use BCM. Not because they're not good but they're super tight. I put the barrel in the freezer overnight, heated the upper prior to the install, and lubed the barrel extension with grease.
I could only get it about 3/4 of the way by hand. It took about 20min of heating and beating the shit out of it with a rubber mallet to get it to seat. Should not be that hard.
if I were to use a blowtorch how long should i blast the receiver threads to heat it up and expand it? my radian upper does not want to seat my barrel.
I prefer a clamshell vice block
I have 3 receiver sets that are extremely tight to get the barrel in and just got a 4th. Not looking forward to installing the barrel. Last time I froze the barrel, used torch on the upper and used grease and it still took quite a bit of force.
I have been using BCM uppers and yes they are crazy tight. Used heat on receiver and froze the barrel but the last time used steel wool to take off some of the phosphate on the barrel extension. FN has a thick phosphate ,Geissele and DD not so much.
Those are called a thermal fit. Use a map gas torch and the barrels will slide right in and out..No need to freeze the barrel. You should also coat the barrel extension with 620 green loctite to bed the barrel to the upper after you lap the face of the upper receiver..Be sure to check the barrel's feed ramps don't over extend the upper receiver feed ramps or you will need to do feed ramp work..
What if your barrel goes in and is a little loose? Is that a bad thing or the barrel nut when tighten will do the job.
Shim and gap filler. The barrel nut does not do the same thing. The point of the tight fit even with the barrel nut is to create favorable barrel harmonics. When you fire a round with a loose barrel, even with a barrel nut there are collisions between the barrel extension and the inside of the upper receiver. Imagine a tuning fork that is held loosely by a vise, vs a tuning fork held tighty welded onto the vise. They will exhibit different harmonics.
With a tight fit, the only variable will be the torque on the barrel nut to affect a frequency favorable for tighter groups.
Check brownells videos. Smyth brothers. He says the nut will tighten up the upper to the barrel due to tapering? Never know what to believe
Geeze, what a mess he's made. . .😅
#NSZ85 very Educational. Thank you
Quick question, i installed my barrel to my upper receiver and its doing the same thing. But i got a qrb so i have to put it in and take it out all the time..i see you used a heat gun. Will that same method work on mine since i will be installing and uninstalling all the time....
Does this dude live right next to the tracks or what
You are heating the The receiver and the barrel at the same time would have been much better if you had put the barrel in the back of the freezer for a little while and then after a little while heat up the receiver take the barrel out of the freezer and it will go right in without any grease or anything
Personally I would not install a barrel that tight , can you imagine trying to replace that barrel down the road .
It is a thermal fit upper, they are made that way..The barrel will slip right on or off if the proper amount of heat is applied to the upper..
I’ve only built 4 ar15s so far but my barrels have never been this hard to put in .. like mine was the perfect fit , slid in and out like butter… how dare u beat ur barrel in like that.. lol that was hardcore , is that normal for barrels that need to be smashed in like that? It made me think idk like it possibly wasn’t the right size or something? Idk maybe I’ll come across a tight barrel someday lol I am a major beginner so who knows 🤷♂️ not me 😋
Remember we are not pounding for our lives here folks. If it doesn’t fit it don’t ship.
You have really great content. Any time I have a question I check your channel for a video first
I greased my barrel and upper and got it in fine
Why do you use the MS 33 opposed to any other option?
I assemble a 223 caliber build. I was only able to tork the barrel nut to 30 pounds. Do you think ? It’s safe ? To fire ?
Why only 30 ft pounds?
How do you get that barrel out in exchange?
Heat and a dowel in the upper to smack it out.
How do you get the barrel back off?
So If you'll need to remove that barrel in future, how will you remove it if it took so much force to get it in?
If you heat the receiver up with a torch it is can't be done a little more easily. Jp has a great video on this.
My god how would you get it out
Life saver
i know im late to the party here, I just got my Larue gun kit, and my barrel slides into my upper with no force. i can slide it in and out with my hand. is this a bad thing?
Thats normal. The barrel nut is what holds it in place. If the barrel doesn't wobble around when you install it it should be fine.
My response to this entire video: that’s what she said.
So how much of a pain is going to be to remove this friction fit?
Easy with a MAP gas torch..
Always calibrate a new torque wrench
Not even close to enough heat required to get that don’t properly…
I think that upper and /or barrel are a bit out of spec. I've put dozens of barrels on and never had one that was that hard to put into the receiver. As a matter of fact they all just slid right in with barely any effort.
A lot of higher end receivers are this tight, Zev/Mega are prime examples. If you call them they'll flat out tell you it's a thermal fit...you freeze the barrel and heat the upper or it ain't going on and you almost always have to beat em on. For me I chuck the barrel in a vise with plastic jaws and then beat the receiver onto the barrel at the very back.
And just like that, thousands of people learned how to do this the WRONG way. You don't grease the two machined surfaces. It adds to the tolerance and makes it tighter. No wonder you are hammering the shit out of it. LMAO.
Did Aeroshell 33ms get rebranded to Aeroshell 64?
Yes
I did this method and now I can't remove my barrel. What do y'all recommend I do?
Leave that one whole and purchase another upper 😎
Watch jb video on how to remove
Your heating both surfaces...geeees..clean the barrel end fool
holy shit you shouldn't be putting rifles together
🎼🎶 Just beat iiit, beat iiit, get your hammer out and , beat iiit.
You don't have to worry, you don't have to fight. Get your dead blow hammer and wack with all your might. Just beat iit. Ugh!!👏👏👏
Shared to Parler
I used a rubber Mallot just needs a little bit more then cried after like a real man 😂 jk no crying happened 😂
I cringed the whole time. You were really hammering the muzzle end? Holy hell…