At about the 18 min mark I saw the tool I needed for my clutch removal, thank you. But then as I prepared to make one myself, it hit me. On my other workbench, right behind me, I had a DPMS AR-15 armorer’s wrench sitting there. Yep, it worked flawlessly. There’s only 2 pins in this wrench so I wouldn’t go getting crazy but my clutch only needed about 5 ft/lb of force to remove. No issues at all. I always said that the only good thing DPMS ever made was that wrench. I hope this helps someone.
I have broken the hook off several of my screwdrivers that I use to make a seal remover. I just take my Drexel and make another one from an old screwdriver. I thin down the end of the flat blade, so I can push it through the old seal and grab the metal part with the hook. The washer really helps because it gives me a good surface to pry against. I just used my angle grinder to cut out a part of a big half inch washer.
Bad bearings create a growling sound. I just rebuilt an HS 45 that some Mexican left out in the rain on his work truck. I replaced the bearings and seals only to find it had been running with only one circlip which smoked the cylinder. I got a new cylinder and piston but it came without circlips. I am waiting for some from Stihl but that make take a while. Pressure washers clean up dirty saws a lot faster than anything else. I take them down to my local car wash and give them a bath. I could use my big pressure washer but car washes are a lot easier than getting my pressure washer out of my storage shed. I agree on seals, just replace them. They are usually not that difficult, even on clamshell designs. I have made a hook tip screwdriver to remove pressed in crank seals. It will pop them out pretty quickly. I use two large washers to give me a fulcrum to help pop them out.
Another awesome video Leon. How about doing one on your chainsaw vice and how it is built? Would be real helpful for us Saturday mechanics! Thanks for all your information.
I made a hook type screwdriver and a couple of big washers to remove crank seals. I put thee big washer over the crank and pry against it with the screwdriver. It will pop them right out. I catch the metal edge of the seal with the hook on the end of the screwdriver’s hook. I can use it to take the seal out with the crank in or out.
I do put a thin coating of 1184 on the outside edge of the seal before I tap them in.with a big socket. I also fill the inner slot with grease. It helps to stop the seal from prolapsing when you seat it. You don’t want to create a hemorrhoid on the seal, because you will have to replace it, again.
...I always use a brass hammer when removing flywheels...Flea Market, Harbor Freight, etc. have them at fairly reasonable prices...or tool trucks if you want a name brand and pay big $$ for it...
I just acquired a Canadian made Homelite XL-1 manual oiling chainsaw. It is light blue in color. I believe it is from the earlier 70's. I'm trying to get it going. It is in very good condition for its age. The seller said it was working when last used about 25 years ago and then stored in his garage .I did replace the spark plug and fuel line and fuel filter. I'm in the process of finding either a carburetor or carburetor repair kit for it. My question is what is the comparable US model for this saw? That's so I can see if I can get parts for it should I need some. Thanks.
@ 10:00 Left my EZ out in the Sun; Puller attached tight and w/ oil. Couple hours later hear it pop; no damage. Striped a MC puller when I was a dumb kid (That was $20 I didn't have) .
Take it from a old timer. Instead of heat and penetrating oil heat the area up a little and put some candle wax or paraffin on the area and it will wick down on the and lubricant.I have found this to be real successful.
I have a blue xl1 saw had manual oil pump only so added auto oil pump works great only issue with saw not running the manual pump is very hard to push. Anyway I could fix that
Hey Leon, Can you explain why there is so many 1979 saws? I have at least 13 different saws with the UL safety standards sticker stating it was manufactured in 1979! I found that very interesting that I have so many chainsaws from that era of time. I finally had to stop collecting and start maintenance on my collection of around 60saws!I have ran out of room around my house to hide anymore saws from my wife😁
I would guess that 1979 was one of the big sales years for chainsaws and woodstoves in response to the energy crisis of the 70s. It was a new big trend that took a while to settle down.
Hi Leon, I have my grandfather XL-130 that I want to preserve in a good working condition. The chain sprocket is pretty well grooved and I wonder if there is replacement available somewhere. I'm from Quebec, Cannada. Also is there a way to find out which year is my saw? Love your video's!
Can you email me a picture of the clutch & sprocket? The XL-130 had several different sizes that were used. I should be able to decode the serial number if you email that as well. support@leonschainsawpartsandrepair.com
That is what I always wonder about...does that rubber lip go inward or out. If it flips out when you slide it on the shaft the spring will come off will it not? If it is a double lip seal like a SKF 6119 for the clutch side and both sides on the old blues, it has a dust lip that flips out.
Wow i got a 306 a poulan and my bro just gave me an old homealight i may need some support! The poulan runs but id like to hear that homelight everything is frozen up but i was told it ran! Need an air cover! Its a blue xl 12! Ill hit ya up on the email
Hey Leon, I ordered a crank seal from you for the clutch side on my Homelite 550 a few days ago. I got it installed but it still runs like it has a slight air leak. I pulled the flywheel to look at that seal and on the 550 the seal is further down in a hole.. How should I go about getting that seal out?
I just ordered a new seal replacing the 58308 B but was an A on the end instead. The new seal from Lil Red Barn did not have a garner spring like my originals. I was under the impression that the seal was like the original but is not, Item number 383431766578. I fear this seal might leak after a few uses. I think the spring was designed to keep the seal tight so i think i might be a loser on this one again. thanks
If Homelite published a float number, I haven't found it. I'm sure they probably did in dealer materials back in the day. I don't measure per se, but I go by feel. If you have any more than a very slight "tink", it'll be worth looking at bearings. I tore down a Super XL-130 yesterday that had enough bearing play to allow the flywheel to touch the coil as the magnets passed. That one was obvious!
At about the 18 min mark I saw the tool I needed for my clutch removal, thank you. But then as I prepared to make one myself, it hit me. On my other workbench, right behind me, I had a DPMS AR-15 armorer’s wrench sitting there. Yep, it worked flawlessly. There’s only 2 pins in this wrench so I wouldn’t go getting crazy but my clutch only needed about 5 ft/lb of force to remove. No issues at all. I always said that the only good thing DPMS ever made was that wrench. I hope this helps someone.
@ 9:00, Hearing my Dad's voice again, (What a fond memory). "Turn that adjustable wrench around!".
Great video, thx Leon.
Very informative Leon us guys into old chainsaws are thankful and I think most of us really appreciate you trying to help us keep our saws running,
Awesome on the clutch and bearings!!!!You are definitely great at this line of work and I thank you for repairing this saw for me.
excellent tutorial on crank seals; thanks Leon.
thank you for posting those seal numbers , great help for restoring a saw
This ought to be very interesting, thank you for the upload Leon. Especially since I have a Super XL.
Good job buddy.👍👍👍
I have broken the hook off several of my screwdrivers that I use to make a seal remover. I just take my Drexel and make another one from an old screwdriver. I thin down the end of the flat blade, so I can push it through the old seal and grab the metal part with the hook. The washer really helps because it gives me a good surface to pry against. I just used my angle grinder to cut out a part of a big half inch washer.
Excellent video 👍 Thanks for the seal part numbers too!!
Great tutorial. Thanks for sharing.
These videos are so timely for me now. 2 XL 12s and 2 maybe 3 SXLs to work on.
Bad bearings create a growling sound. I just rebuilt an HS 45 that some Mexican left out in the rain on his work truck. I replaced the bearings and seals only to find it had been running with only one circlip which smoked the cylinder. I got a new cylinder and piston but it came without circlips. I am waiting for some from Stihl but that make take a while. Pressure washers clean up dirty saws a lot faster than anything else. I take them down to my local car wash and give them a bath. I could use my big pressure washer but car washes are a lot easier than getting my pressure washer out of my storage shed. I agree on seals, just replace them. They are usually not that difficult, even on clamshell designs. I have made a hook tip screwdriver to remove pressed in crank seals. It will pop them out pretty quickly. I use two large washers to give me a fulcrum to help pop them out.
I trust a man who's always drinking Coffee👍
Another awesome video Leon. How about doing one on your chainsaw vice and how it is built? Would be real helpful for us Saturday mechanics! Thanks for all your information.
I made a hook type screwdriver and a couple of big washers to remove crank seals. I put thee big washer over the crank and pry against it with the screwdriver. It will pop them right out. I catch the metal edge of the seal with the hook on the end of the screwdriver’s hook. I can use it to take the seal out with the crank in or out.
I do put a thin coating of 1184 on the outside edge of the seal before I tap them in.with a big socket. I also fill the inner slot with grease. It helps to stop the seal from prolapsing when you seat it. You don’t want to create a hemorrhoid on the seal, because you will have to replace it, again.
Good info in this one. TY
Awesome video man. so great
...I always use a brass hammer when removing flywheels...Flea Market, Harbor Freight, etc. have them at fairly reasonable prices...or tool trucks if you want a name brand and pay big $$ for it...
I just acquired a Canadian made Homelite XL-1 manual oiling chainsaw. It is light blue in color. I believe it is from the earlier 70's. I'm trying to get it going. It is in very good condition for its age. The seller said it was working when last used about 25 years ago and then stored in his garage .I did replace the spark plug and fuel line and fuel filter. I'm in the process of finding either a carburetor or carburetor repair kit for it. My question is what is the comparable US model for this saw? That's so I can see if I can get parts for it should I need some. Thanks.
@ 10:00 Left my EZ out in the Sun; Puller attached tight and w/ oil. Couple hours later hear it pop; no damage.
Striped a MC puller when I was a dumb kid (That was $20 I didn't have) .
You don’t have to worry about four letter words with me. I am a Marine and know lots of them.😎
Take it from a old timer. Instead of heat and penetrating oil heat the area up a little and put some candle wax or paraffin on the area and it will wick down on the and lubricant.I have found this to be real successful.
16x24x5 is .629921x .944882.x19685 and 4mm is .15748 just remember to measure the old original seal and the housings to match the MM seals.
I have a blue xl1 saw had manual oil pump only so added auto oil pump works great only issue with saw not running the manual pump is very hard to push. Anyway I could fix that
Hey Leon, Can you explain why there is so many 1979 saws? I have at least 13 different saws with the UL safety standards sticker stating it was manufactured in 1979! I found that very interesting that I have so many chainsaws from that era of time. I finally had to stop collecting and start maintenance on my collection of around 60saws!I have ran out of room around my house to hide anymore saws from my wife😁
I would guess that 1979 was one of the big sales years for chainsaws and woodstoves in response to the energy crisis of the 70s. It was a new big trend that took a while to settle down.
Yeah, this is a better angle
Hi Leon, I have my grandfather XL-130 that I want to preserve in a good working condition. The chain sprocket is pretty well grooved and I wonder if there is replacement available somewhere. I'm from Quebec, Cannada. Also is there a way to find out which year is my saw? Love your video's!
Can you email me a picture of the clutch & sprocket? The XL-130 had several different sizes that were used. I should be able to decode the serial number if you email that as well. support@leonschainsawpartsandrepair.com
@@LeonsChainsawPartsAndRepair Good thanks I'll take pictures as soon as it will be possible for me. Unfortunately I don't have access to it right now.
I think there's a felt washer missing between the flywheel and seal. My super xl had one
Hi. Where are you located?
I'm in NH. I have a xl2 that will start with starter fluid but won't stay running. What should I be checking for?
That is what I always wonder about...does that rubber lip go inward or out. If it flips out when you slide it on the shaft the spring will come off will it not? If it is a double lip seal like a SKF 6119 for the clutch side and both sides on the old blues, it has a dust lip that flips out.
Ok I think maybe I got it figured out. The SKF 6119 will it fit both sides on a Xl12. and only one side on a super Xl?
@@thecollectoronthecorner7061 Correct.
Wow i got a 306 a poulan and my bro just gave me an old homealight i may need some support! The poulan runs but id like to hear that homelight everything is frozen up but i was told it ran! Need an air cover! Its a blue xl 12! Ill hit ya up on the email
I live in Marysville wa. What is the name of the company?
What happens if you install the new seal to deep, which I just did? Should I pull it out and order a new one?
Hey Leon, I ordered a crank seal from you for the clutch side on my Homelite 550 a few days ago. I got it installed but it still runs like it has a slight air leak. I pulled the flywheel to look at that seal and on the 550 the seal is further down in a hole.. How should I go about getting that seal out?
With the saw assembled, you'll have to find a hook shaped tool strong enough to fit down there. The cheapie Harbor Freight crap will just bend...
@@LeonsChainsawPartsAndRepair Thanks! I'll see what I can find
What is that tool called where you removed the flywheel
I just ordered a new seal replacing the 58308 B but was an A on the end instead. The new seal from Lil Red Barn did not have a garner spring like my originals. I was under the impression that the seal was like the original but is not, Item number 383431766578. I fear this seal might leak after a few uses. I think the spring was designed to keep the seal tight so i think i might be a loser on this one again. thanks
What is the plug for right there by the oil plug?
hi what size is the flywheel side seal ???
what should the crank end float be pls
If Homelite published a float number, I haven't found it. I'm sure they probably did in dealer materials back in the day. I don't measure per se, but I go by feel. If you have any more than a very slight "tink", it'll be worth looking at bearings. I tore down a Super XL-130 yesterday that had enough bearing play to allow the flywheel to touch the coil as the magnets passed. That one was obvious!
say no more than 10 thou