*Updates* I've upgraded the wires to larger gauge 2/0 and shorter once I met up with a buddy that could do custom cables for me - www.loveyourrv.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/Four-Interstate-6-volt-batteries.jpg Here is my boondocking system as it basically sits today - www.loveyourrv.com/diy-rv-boondocking-power-system/ The only changes I've made was to swap out a damaged ground panel - www.loveyourrv.com/replacing-damaged-portable-solar-panel-plus-new-mounting/ and added a catastrophic fuse right to the battery post - www.loveyourrv.com/installed-catastrophic-fuse-rv-battery-bank/ The system has worked well for our needs, rarely need to run the generator anymore. Cheers, Ray
Hi Ray, Great walk thru on your upgrade to 4 ea. 6v batteries...Thanks! I've been reading all the reference links you sent me on 12V electrical and Solar. you set your expansion up pretty much exactly Mark Nemeth recommends. Nice to see the finished product. I'm just starting to read Jack Mayer's RV Electrical/Solar and Mike Sokol's "RV electrical Safety" book ought to be arriving any day now. Just want to say thanks.
Nice video. I just finished installing pretty much the same set-up in my travel trailer, four six volt batteries, 800 watt inverter, and a 200 watt solar system. Plenty of juice now.
Hi Ray yes lots of power need more though for my wife has lung problems and I have to have enough power to run a oxygen concentrator 24/7.i'm going to be taking out my 4.5 kW generator and putting in another battery bank should be able to fit 6 to 8 more batteries in that location. Plan on installing more solar panel on my rig as well.
Very nice setup. I have a similar setup and would like to recommend a Blue Sky charge controller - the Solar Boost 3000i. I have been very happy with it. Thanks for the videos - Happy Trails.
I haven't done it yet and have not heard of someone else doing it. But when it comes to adding a shunt isn't the breakers you just put in more or less a shunt? To my simple mind of thinking a shunt is just a way of having a "connection point in the same line for amp readings. You have that with your breakers. The only concern would be the fuse part could cause a different reading than what is actually present. Just a thought.
+Jerry Densmore A shunt has a very very low known resistance, a specialized meter can then read the voltage drop to accurately measure the current. The is a good PDF document link here on shunts - www.bogartengineering.com/content/accessories
is there a list of the carrying capabilities of the cargo bins. i know each RV would be different and would also depend on what the bin is made out of, but no sales person ever lists stats like that. With these batteries being what they are, the weight must be enormous. Not to mention 10x fold while bouncing down a bumpy road.
I couldn't find anything published but know that a lot of fifth wheels use the front compartment for batteries and builtin generators. The front compartment is built much more robustly than the sides. The container is sheet metal welded right to the frame. Much like what a car trunk would be made of. I've inspected often and see no signs of cracked welds or bending after several years of full-timing, often traveling on rough backroads. I have fellow RVer buddies that have installed 4 or even more batteries in the same spot with no issues. The weight of my 4 battery bank is 240 lbs. I have my bank strapped down so it doesn't bounce. Cheers, Ray
Thanks for sharing. I'm researching lithium ions. GreenLife has a 260ah battery for insane price of 2999$ on Amazon. But everything about lithiums is so much better technology and capabilities than the ancient flooded lead acids that even at such a high cost the overall benefits balance out. There's also a battery almost available called the sodium battery which is even better than lithiums. Company based in Finland.
When my lead acids are ready to be replaced hopefully there will be a cost-efficient battery out there. I'll let the early adopters be the guinea pigs like I do with most tech. :)
Very nice! I have one suggestion though, there should be a disconnect before the charge controller. Since the charge controller requires the solar to be disconnected before disconnecting the controller from the battery bank.
Thanks. There is in the form of a removable fuse, which I've since upgraded to a switchable breaker - www.loveyourrv.com/diy-rv-boondocking-power-system/ Cheers Ray
Depends on how big of charger you use. If its just the factory tow cable charger then no problem. But some people beef up the wring or add a DC-DC charger. If you do something like that you have to make sure the alternator has the capacity to handle the extra load on it. I just installed on on my new truck - www.loveyourrv.com/renogy-40-amp-dc-dc-charger-installation-and-demo/ Cheers, Ray
Best price on batteries I have found is Duracell at Sams club and Costco (rebranded Interstate) the 6v batteries are $85ea and Costco told me they will accept an AA battery to remove the core charge per battery. Or Batteries Plus has Duracell 6v for $99 and you may get 10% off if you ask for it. Making the price $90ea. You can also ask around to find old batteries people have laying around you can turn in to remove the core charge. There are also 12v AGM 100ah batteries on Amazon shipped for $160.
Very nice Ray you have to look at my video I've got the450 W solar panels across the front of my motorhome going into a TriStar 60 amp PWM I have the same batteries as you and then I have a marine deep cycle hundred amp hour battery for my coach. And I have 150 W solar panel at the back of the motorhome to charge my batteries during winter. I have the 450w plug into a grid tired inverter.
all the time you are the genius with your precisely work. i had a question regarding the power. i have an invert er 1500 W near to the battery as you said to run the rig boun docking without generator. my concern that i have connect the core which should gos to generator receptical and inserted in to invert-er to run tv,light,charging phone etc..... but when i insert the core and start run the invert-er the converter near the inside DP its run as usually to charge the battery thought this power coming from the generator as you said loop like a circle i think you know what i mean. is this kind of connection will harm the battery or DP or rig converter.
Seems easy to add batteries in a 5th wheel. Where could I put 4 sealed batteries in a travel trailer? I don't think it will work on the tongue. Thanks!
I just bought a used rv and need a new battery so am planning on buying two and having them wired together. I feel much more informed when I talk to the shop about doing the job. Thanks so much!
Hi you have mentioned the ground wire in the beginning of the video. Where is the ground wire coming from, and which components of your system are connected to the ground wire/wires? Thanks a lot
+mosheg77 The ground wire I mentioned is not actually an earth ground. It a cable running from the negative side of the battery bank to the fifth wheel trailers metal frame or commonly called a chassis ground. It was installed by the manufacturer. From what I've seen though most components in the RV are using a separate negative 12 volt wire and not using the chassis ground as a return.
Cool. Check out this post for an updated look at the install. I shorten and thickened the wiring a bit. www.loveyourrv.com/diy-rv-boondocking-power-system/ Cheers! Ray
Nice set up and very neat, when you get your new controller if you haven't already, you might would consider mounting it in a wall up in your rig were you can see at ease what's going on with your batteries and panels as far as charging and volt usage.
Thanks! I just got finished installing a new Bogart controller which works in concert with a Trimetric battery monitor - www.loveyourrv.com/bogart-sc2030-cc-and-trimetric-tm2030-rv-installation/ I've read it is best to have the controller as close to the batteries as you can for less power loss when charging. I think his combo will work well because I can see all the info on the Trimetric which is communicating with the controller through a telephone data line. :) - Ray
We just came back from camping and felt like our two 12 volts were not lasting like they should and then we see this video... Thanks for posting it. I was just telling my wife about upgrading our two 12 volts to two 6 volt AGM's. We must have a parasitic draw of power somewhere.
Install a kill switch to cut off the power from the battery when it is in storage. The little light on the radio/DVD player also draws power. Two 6 volt golf cart batteries would definitely be better, but I’m not aware that they are available in AGM. If it is in storage for most of the time, i recommend a 100 watt solar panel to maintain the battery if a power source is not available to plug in the RV.
I'm confused, do all the lights work straight off the battery bank? What about fridge, TV? If so why do you even need an inverter? I thought the inverter seems small but maybe that's because I don't know what it actually goes to. These are general RV type questions.
Most RV electrical circuits will run just off the batteries. Our inverter is only really needed to run our 43" LED TV, my wife's 21" iMac computer, dental water pic and a small shop vacuum. They can only run off of AC power. We also use its output to plug chargers into for things like camera batteries, electric shaver, phones, tablets and laptops.
Thanks a lot, Ray, for this informative video. Your channel, and the comments section, have a wealth of very useful information. I'm looking forward to doing a similar project on our travel trailer. These modifications are time and money well spent. Happy Camping!
How can I find out where you sourced all of your switches, fuses, etc. You have a lot of hardware there to acquire. Have you seen anyone do this to a travel trailer? I have a toy hauler travel trailer. Thanks for your help.
Much of the stuff is available on Amazon or at Arizona Wind and Solar. If you check the mod section of my blog I usually link to sources of the parts when I write a post. - www.loveyourrv.com/love-your-rv-mods-and-upgrades/
They are made by Century Plastics in Richmond BC - www.centuryplastics.ca/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=8&Itemid=7 I picked it up at a local marine supplies store in Victoria BC. In the US I see they are available online at - allbatterysalesandservice.com/catalog/product/view/id/16104/s/century-plastics-heavy-duty-battery-box-holds-4-6-volt-golf-cart-batteries-gcq-g/category/5/
i have a single 12v now but purchased 2 6v that i daisy chained. So can i mow pair the old 12v to thr open 6v positive and negative 6v posts for generator cranking amps fot my 5th wheel? Thanks!
Excellence in motion. One rodent can chew random wires and have fatalities. Bravos to you for installing the extra fail safe for your family, pets and guests. Not to mention your investment. Cheers!
With RVs, you never really know for sure. Generally, the red will be +12 volts and the white will be -12volts or DC ground. White can also be the AC neutral wire and black the AC hot wire and sometimes they use black as the 12-volt DC positive wire. To know for sure it's a good idea to get a digital multimeter and make some measurements.
If I remember correct, 6 volt batteries need or require a high amp charger in the 15-20 amp range to charge the batteries fully. Would you happened to know what your solar charger is putting out? and can give us your results with this setup so far?
Right now the solar charger is putting out about 20 amps during the peak daily solar hours. Will put out more as the we get into spring and a higher sun angle. I have my solar panels flat mounted. More important than amperage to completely charge the 6 volts lead acid is voltage. During the absorption phase, I have the solar controller set to 14.8 volts. The Bogart SC2030 controller I recently installed is doing a great job of charging. There is some interesting battery charging info in the last pages of this instruction PDF for it. - bogartengineering.com/sites/default/files/docs/SC2030-9-10-15-UsersInstruc.pdf For cloudy days or when we have depleted the batteries by using excessive power that the solar can't do the recharge fast enough, I have installed a high-quality battery charger. www.loveyourrv.com/installing-the-inteli-power-pd9260-for-improved-rv-battery-charging/ Between this unit for generator time and the solar controller my battery bank is getting well charged. On average when boondocking, we use 50 to 100 Amp Hours from sundown to sun up so usually the battery bank never goes below 75% charged. For our lifestyle it's a good sized bank, meets our day to day needs with a little extra capacity even.
It would depend on the temperature and how much we needed to run the furnace, usually 3-5 days with no power input but with the solar and generator to recharge we can boondocking as long as our water and tank space lasts. About 2 weeks or so. Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV I was thinking of going with 2GC interstate extremes to boondock 4 nights only going to use the furnace at sleeping hrs. Don’t know if 2 extrema golf carts would hold though might have to buy a generator
A lot depends on how many things you power, every one has different needs. Here is a video I did showing what we use. I did it a while ago so actually have more solar power now and lithium batteries but it should give you an idea what we do. - www.loveyourrv.com/what-do-we-power-with-500-watts-of-rv-solar/
Hi ray, i currently have a travel trailer with a single 12v battery on the outside, can i switch to 2- 6v batteries and move them inside one of my storage compartments? what would you suggest about ventilation?
+Pierre Dumont You would have to put them into a sealed box then run vent piping. Possibly a little fan. Many people use AGM type batteries for inside compartments as they are sealed and don't vent gases unless badly overcharged. Then you might be able to get away with no seal box.
Just a question, so when you are plugged in the converter still charges the batteries, and if the inverter was hooked to the rig 120 vac system you would not want to use the converter. Just wondering I have seen units where they just used a receptical and plugged the rv into the generator or inverter or shore power to keep it simple. I hope I am not to confused. Will the converter and solar charger work at the same time?
+Ed H The problem arises when you plug the RVs power cord straight into the inverters output. The inverter tries to power the RVs converter which tries to charge the batteries which are powering the inverter and a weird power loop takes place. A simple solution is to flip off the converters breaker so it is disabled. a more elegant an expensive solution is to install an auto power transfer switch .gpelectric.com/products/30-amp-transfer-switch. I prefer to have a dedicated Inverter only outlet in the rig. All depends on your power needs. Yes, solar power and converter can charge at the same time.
Because each of the batteries are rated at a certain number amp hours at 6 volts. Amps X Volts = Power So when you series two of the same batteries you are doubling the voltage which doubles the power. When you parallel them voltage stays the same and amps hours double. Either way you are doubling the total power.
By no means am I a expert however I do have experience in the RV Solar World. I am on my 3rd Toyhauler as of last week. I can tell you if you have the extra cash. Purchase 8D-AGM batteries, while these are heavy. They are 10 year Batteries if taken care of. I am not a full time RVer but with 4-8D's I have more then enough power for long weekenders. I never use my built in Onan5500 accept to run night time flood lights for an hour or maybe two now & then.AGM batteries never release gas so no venting.
Cool, sounds like a ton of power. All depends on your budget and weight, space requirements I guess. Gassing is not an issue since our fifth wheels front storage compartment is relatively open to the out side air. More maintenance needed but I do like the fact that I can check each cells state of charge with a hydrometer. Cheers! Ray
The way mine is set up, I plug my RV directly into the inverter - you mention disconnecting the "converter" to avoid a funny loop - can you explain what the converter is? I am new to this and don't want to damage any equipment! Thanks!
A charger converter is a device that takes the 120V AC shore or generator power and converts it to DC power to charge the batteries The output voltage usually varies between 13.2 - 14.4 volts depending on the state of charge of the batteries. An inverter is a device that takes the 12 volt DC battery power and converts it to 120V ac power to run household outlet type stuff and appliances. On some of the newer RVs, they are starting to combine the two into one device usually called a Hybrid Inverter Charger. ie. - www.magnum-dimensions.com/product-inverter/3000w-12vdc-pure-sine-hybrid-inverter-charger-msh-series
Where would that converter be located? If I have my trailer plugged directly into my 3000 watt pure sine wave inverter - does that mean the inverter is trying to charge the batteries as well as draw from them?
Thanks, Terry, I've upgraded the wires to larger gauge 2/0 and shorter once I met up with a buddy that could do custom cables for me - www.loveyourrv.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/Four-Interstate-6-volt-batteries.jpg Here is my boondocking system as it basically sits today - www.loveyourrv.com/diy-rv-boondocking-power-system/ The only changes I've made was to swap out a damaged ground panel - www.loveyourrv.com/replacing-damaged-portable-solar-panel-plus-new-mounting/ and added a catastrophic fuse right to the battery post - www.loveyourrv.com/installed-catastrophic-fuse-rv-battery-bank/ The system has worked well for our needs, rarely need to run the generator anymore. Cheers, Ray
Love Your RV Thanks for the quick reply Ray! I was just reading your blog, you’ve done a great job with it. I getting my parts list together so I can order everything. Thanks again for all the great content. Hope you and your wife have a great day.
Hi Ray, looks like you're getting a really great set-up together. One thing you didn't show in the video (and one thing I'm going to need to do soon) is how to get the batteries in and out of the battery box. I'm not sure how much they weigh but I know lead isn't light. lol Any tips on lifting them in and out?
It's coming along piece by piece. :) The batteries are about 60 lbs each. Not too bad to lift, it's mostly about technique, keeping them close to your body. I was on my knees in front of the storage bay and lifted pretty well straight up against my body and then over the lip of the storage. Wear old clothes in case a little acid gets on them. One thing I did to make it easier was to shorten the fiver front jacks so the front of the rig was really low. Means I didn't have to lift them very high and could stay on my knees while doing it. Cheers Ray
+Love Your RV OK, thanks. I guess I'm going to have to start working out now to build up my muscles!! or maybe I'll just call you when the time comes?! lol
+Love Your RV ha ray, you can get a battery holder at any auto parts store, you hook a loop on each terminal which has a strap between them then you can jusst lift then out of the box with ease and carry them. its called a battery carrier
Thanks for the tip, I see the batteries also have a plastic tab on each side. I remember the Interstate battery guy had a strap that hooked into those as well.
there are several type of battery carriers, check with any auto parts store, thell have them. i dont think wal mart and those type of stores carry them. it ill make it alot easier to handle the batterie.
They are made by Century Plastics in Richmond BC - www.centuryplastics.ca/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=8&Itemid=7 I picked it up at a local marine supplies store on Victoria BC. In the US I see they are available online at - allbatterysalesandservice.com/catalog/product/view/id/16104/s/century-plastics-heavy-duty-battery-box-holds-4-6-volt-golf-cart-batteries-gcq-g/category/5/
Hi Ray. Did you mount the battery box to the floor of the storage compartment somehow? If so, how? Or do you just count on the weight of the 4 batteries to keep the box stationary? Regards,
If you look near the end of the video - th-cam.com/video/hajteByaQuE/w-d-xo.htmlm13s You can see I have eye bolts bolted through the steel floor and ratchet straps holding the box down. I'd say the weight of the batteries is likely enough in most cases but if I ever do hit some extreme roughness it doesn't hurt to the strapping to keep them from bouncing.
Don’t know if anybody else ever said this, but my understanding is that lead acid batteries will Off-gas hydrogen when charged. Hydrogen is lighter than air so it needs an upward escape path. You’re setup covers this but I just thought other viewers might think that a vent anywhere will do the trick.
Yes, good point, battery boxes usually need two openings to create a chimney effect an lower one below the batteries and an upper one above. Unless a fan is used.
Nice job! Did you look into lithium batteries? I know they are twice as much, but I think they last over 4 times as long. They are a lot lighter for the same total Ah. Thanks
No, they weren't a consideration in my budget. You need not only the battery but a Battery Management System BMS as well and a compatible charge controller. Also, there are concerns about cold temperatures and the tech is still pretty new, and demands more babysitting from what I hear. We'll see how those longevity claims pan out. Too much cash for me to risk. ;) If you look at this RV package, you'll see 200AH is around 2000 bucks. - www.lithiumrvbattery.com/Lithium_RV_Battery/RV_LFMP_Package.html If I had a different style RV where space was limited and weight was critical the Lithium would be much more attractive. I have lots of room and ventilation so can run the cheaper Lead Acids. My 4 cost around $500 bucks I'll wait until they are worn out in 5 - 7 years, by that time Lithium should be cheaper and any bugs ironed out Cheers Ray
I have a fairly simple install since are energy needs are minor. I don't need the complexity of a transfer switch - check out the video at the end of this post for my reasoning - www.loveyourrv.com/1000w-pure-sine-wave-inverter/ Cheers Ray
They are made by Century Plastics of Richmond BC, there is a place that sells them - allbatterysalesandservice.com/catalog/product/view/id/16104/s/century-plastics-heavy-duty-battery-box-holds-4-6-volt-golf-cart-batteries-gcq-g/category/5/
Very nice. Wiring confuses me very easily and you simplified this. Do you still use the two original 12 volt batteries in addition to the new 6 volt batteries? For a total of 6 batteries in total ? I would like to do something simular but hook up my inverter to the house outlets but bypass the microwave outlet and the outlet that is used for the hair dryer. Is this transfer switch you talked about automatic or is it manual?
I have 4 6volt batteries now. In this newer video, there is a piece where I show the even more simplified battery wiring. th-cam.com/video/uRbGmxun1LI/w-d-xo.html Also have a look at this updated video - th-cam.com/video/yV2xJiHSbfU/w-d-xo.html for inverter information. Cheers Ray
I have 4 6volt batteries now. In this newer video, there is a piece where I show the even more simplified battery wiring. th-cam.com/video/uRbGmxun1LI/w-d-xo.html Also have a look at this updated video - th-cam.com/video/yV2xJiHSbfU/w-d-xo.html for inverter information. Cheers Ray
Thank you for your answer Ray. When the batteries are being charged by the solar panels, do you not have your RV hooked to shore power? Can the batteries be charged from both forms of power at the same time?
Thanks, I've since upgraded the wire to a larger gauge 2/0 and shorter runs by having a buddy of mine custom build exact length cables - cdn.loveyourrv.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/Four-Interstate-6-volt-batteries.jpg
What model are these batteries and how are you liking them still. I've been debating going 6v in series or going with 2 Odyssey PC-2150S batteries help me out.
GC2-HD-UTL No complaints, they have been good given the inexpensive price. I paid around $125 a piece with core trade-in. AGM will be more expensive. There are pros and cons to each technology. www.crownbattery.com/news/agm-vs-flooded-batteries-what-you-need-to-know Here is a link to a great article about what is a true deep cycle battery - marinehowto.com/what-is-a-deep-cycle-battery/ Cheers Ray
i commend you for all your informative videos....so many full time rv videos are on location, and their laundry days,,,lol...your videos my friend are sooo informative on how to and what you constantly upgrade...thank you...thank you
Thanks very much! I love to try and do things myself. It's fun to learn and tinker and share my projects with so many. It's also a good way to make sure I did it right. There is a ton of expertise in the TH-cam audience. :) Glad you like the vids, Cheers Ray
No, it doesn't not enough battery power or high enough wattage inverter. Building a system able to run the AC off battery power can get quite expensive. Cheers, Ray
The 6 volt is taller so more compact from a floor space perspective, they have heavier/thicker lead plates than most 12-volt batteries that call themselves deep cycle so can handle deeper more often discharge cycles before wearing out, good bang for the buck price wise. Here is a good article - marinehowto.com/what-is-a-deep-cycle-battery/ Cheers, Ray
looking at 850 wind and 400 solar we boondock for two weeks of the year right now on the Oregon coast the last time we used the 5th wheel were running out of juice in a couple days and had to run generator to recharge I have 3 cheap batteries right now heater really sucks juice thanks for the info and videos still learning this will be our second year with the RV again thanks
+matteo4m I got it at a local marine supply store, but here is an online source with the same box - www.allbatterysalesandservice.com/browse.cfm/4,5576.html - Ray
A switchable breaker is nice since you can then easily turn off different circuits for testing or maintenance. Here is my system as it is now - www.loveyourrv.com/diy-rv-boondocking-power-system/
Ok I watched more vid and got my answer at about 3:50 on vid 2, 12v with 232 amp hrs, in parallel= total very good. I may find room somewhere on my Hideout to do the same Great vid keep it up.
They are made by Century Plastics in Richmond BC - www.centuryplastics.ca/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=8&Itemid=7 I picked it up at a local marine supplies store in Victoria BC. In the US I see they are available online at - allbatterysalesandservice.com/catalog/product/view/id/16104/s/century-plastics-heavy-duty-battery-box-holds-4-6-volt-golf-cart-batteries-gcq-g/category/5/ Cheers, Ray
Hi Dino, thanks. :) Not sure if better or not yet, Trojans are highly thought of, but the Interstates were a pretty good price, have lots of dealers in case of a failure and I've used the brand in our big diesel truck for years with good results so thought I would give them a try when it came to replacement. So far they seem to be performing well but time will tell.
The 6 volt is taller so more compact from a floor space perspective, they have heavier/thicker lead plates than most 12-volt batteries that call themselves deep cycle so can handle deeper more often discharge cycles before wearing out, good bang for the buck price wise. Here is a good article - marinehowto.com/what-is-a-deep-cycle-battery/ Cheers, Ray
Each battery is most likely 116 amp/hr. Put two in serries you get 116 amp/hr. Put two in parallel you get 232 amp/hr. Put two packs of two serial batteries with two parallel and you ger 232 amp. The main idea here is he needs 12v for output so he has two pairs of batteries.
Nice work. Is your inverter a Pure Sine, and are you thinking about going bigger? My last toy hauler I had 1500w and found I wanted more. It was modified and that may have been part of my problems? I am going with the 3000w Pure this time.
Thanks, I'll stay with 1000w, it's plenty for us. We are mainly interested in powering our electronic gear, computers, camera chargers, laptop, LED TV etc. It's a pure sine wave. I also carry a couple 2000w generators if I really need to power up a big load, even the AC.
Cool. Thanks for the reply. Long time viewer, just subscribed a few days ago. Love your video of Ed's set-up. Going to try and go between your solar set-up and Ed's.
Thanks for the sub. I will be putting up a video soon detailing one of Eddie's recent installs he did for a friend. They videod all the install steps and send the clips to me. I'm going to put together and uploaded pretty soon. I think it will close to what you're looking for as it's kinda in between and Eddie got to start it from a clean slate. Cheers Ray
Part of adapting to solar is to reduce your need for electricity, especially 110/115/120 volt. Plan on propane to "power" your high draw items and forget about running roof air (even one) on solar. You can throw money at a bigger and bigger solar system to keep your pre-RV lifestyle intact yet... part of the fun is seeing how little electricity you can get by on. If you do size up...it would be to have enough electricity during those longer stretches without enough sun.
Hey Ray I'm new to following you, so I am going to ask A couple dumb questions where did you get that big plastic box for your 4 new batteries and what kind of batteries are they besides 6 volt? I appreciate you! you do good work got me upgrading to go Boondocking yeha!!! thanks Dave
Hi Dave, No Problem. :) I got the box at a local boating supply store but here is a link to an online place that sells the same boxes - www.allbatterysalesandservice.com/browse.cfm/4,5576.html The batteries are Interstate GC2-XHD-ULT Cheers Ray
+Love Your RV Hey Ray... :) I appreciate the info. I am old and retired and gotta admit the adventure of boondocking is exciting but I am getting nervous about it all... later Dave
Thanks, that was the best I could do at the time with off the shelf stuff. Since then I have had a chance to run into a buddy of mine who does custom wiring, so had 2/0 GA installed as short as possible. www.loveyourrv.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/Four-Interstate-6-volt-batteries.jpg
The new wiring looks even better Ray. Those batteries plus 400 watts of solar should be the cat's meow. 99% of my camping was dry camping in Idaho. I understand all you are doing and why.. Good luck and look forward to your next video. Oh, never had a power awning. That would make things much easier.
Thanks, since then I've had some cables custom built to replace the off the shelf ones I initially used, shortened and thickened to 2/0 gauge - www.loveyourrv.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/Interstate-battery-bank.jpg www.loveyourrv.com/20-rv-upgrades-fifth-wheel-trailer/ Cheers, Ray
Actually that's correct but in a normal 12v 100ah battery you would only be able to get 50 ah before you have to recharge it. Since you have two 6v 100 ah batteries and each will give you 50 ah. Wouldn't you get a full 100 ah out of the 6v system before recharge?
The two 6s act as one 12v when wired in series. The AH capacity stays the same and would still need to be recharged after 50 AH. www.trojanbattery.com/Tech-Support/TechologyLibrary/ConnectionsDiagram.aspx
And note that the price of one 6v 100ah battery almost the same price as 12v 100ah, so 12v batteries as you get double amperage in smaller size with the same price although 6v connected in series may perform better and live longer.
Give me an idea how much stuff you can run off just the batteries and for how long. Doesn't have to be exact, I'm just trying to wrap my head around what the reality is.
Our battery bank has a rated capacity of 464 amp hours so it would put out 1 amp for 464 hours before it was completely dead. However, it's recommended by most lead-acid battery manufacturers to not let the batteries drop below 50% state of charge so effectively unless it's an emergency situation we only have 232 amp hours to play with. In our routine days, we use between 10 to 20% of our capacity. It can vary depending for the most part on temperature. Long cold winter nights mean we run the RV furnace tons more who's fan draws 6-8 amps, also when cold lead acid batteries lose capacity. So we could go 5 days in warm weather 80F days and 50F nights or 2.5 days on cool weather 50F days and 30F night. In a typical working day, I run my 17" laptop 8 hours and my wife runs her 21" iMac desktop roughly the same, we also may watch 2 hours of TV. Those are out big power drains. Added to this typical power load will be some stuff charging like the cell phones, camera batteries, etc and the loses in wiring and the inverter circuits. If we were to go to extreme power conservation and only run LED lights the rig still drains around 25AH a day with stuff like the fridge control board, propane detector, and other parasitic loads, so we could in warm weather max our 50% battery drain at around 9 days. If you want to find out how other things will drain the battery, find their wattage. Use the formula watts=amps x volts So an 800-watt microwave takes roughly 800/12 = 66.6 amps to run. It would drain the battery bank to 50% if run constantly at its rated wattage for around 3.5 hours. You can see there are a lot of variables depending on how folks consume energy that's why the best thing to do is install a battery monitor system that can track usage in amp hours. Then use the rig and see how much you use typically, then build the battery bank and solar system to meet the needs. Cheers, Ray
As always Ray, thanks! I can almost hear Mr Rogers explaining to me how to make my own off grid nuclear reactor out of a potato, a milk carton and a paper clip. : )
hello I'm a newbie, why does every video say golf cart batteries, why wouldn't you use car batteries , is their a difference ?? why not get 2 12volt batteries instead of 4 6volt batteries ??
i ran across a free RV from the 80's the other day, i think i should have just paid for one, so far I've managed to discharge all 3 of it's batteries (it has two deep cycle 95 ah, and one just regular car battery)well not me, my sister left something on while i was out of town, so for 3 weeks it was unchecked, all 3 batteries have no reading on a meter lol, they look old anyways, so now that they are old and prolly cut short in life from this 3 weeks at 0 volts i might as well buy new ones, i just have no clue about batteries, i hear 6v golf cart batteries seem to be better, but i don't really know why, or if that's true. this video was very nice, thank you for all this info :)
Generally they are built a little more rugged ( they are built for golf carts) and have thicker lead plates. They are taller so take a smaller footprint. They can also usually handle more deep discharges than regular 12 volt deep cycles. They also tend to give you the best bang for your buck and are tried and tested over the years so tend to work well with all chargers.
You're welcome. I've changed a few things since the original install. The wiring has been shortened and beefed up a bit. You can see it here - th-cam.com/video/2zNTbMoUqBE/w-d-xo.htmlm2s Cheers Ray
+UH-1 I have also heard that is supposed to be the best way for balancing the bank. But I also charge on one side and draw from the other like so many do with not too much trouble. Maybe some better info will get me and others to change their views.
4:20 are you talking about the top right battery having two positive wires connected to it? Looks like one comes from the trailer and one goes to another battery.
+aguyandhiscomputer I actually ended up later in the video changing that connection when I installed my disconnect switch. Here is an interesting article I found on hooking up multiple batteries in a bank - www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con.html Looks like the best way to hook up the bank is on opposite corners. So the load and charging to each leg is equal. That looks like the theory anyway.
That's a pretty general comparison, but a great many people like to use the 6V golf cart type wet cell batteries believing they give the best bang for the buck. Some will spend more money and go with 12V AGM type which need less maintenance and ventilation than the wet cells.
I've heard it debated both ways. Some say negative some say positive, doesn't really matter much in my opinion. Here is an example instruction manual from Blue Sea showing a positive hookup diagram - assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/instructions/6006_web_version.pdf Personally, I like to have all my switches, breakers and fuses on the positive cables for consistency. Cheers, Ray
Anyone who does solar power installations would be a good bet. They would have the knowledge and the tools to do it. Here is another good video to watch - th-cam.com/video/ARKwl7lxHWo/w-d-xo.html Cheers Ray
I got it at a local marine supply store, but here is an online source with the same box - www.allbatterysalesandservice.com/browse.cfm/4,5576.html - Ray
Also I am not sure you had to upgrade the cables over the original installation as the 1 gauge runs were not very long and the biggest draw on the 12 volt is probably the inverter if you are running close to capacity. I used to run T-6's but one winter they froze (battery maintainer somehow got unplugged and panels snowed over) and what a mess! Battery acid everywhere. So I switched to AGM even though they are quite a bit more money. The T-6's were in a white box like the one you show but the dealer had screwed it down so somehow the batteries had to come up and out, not easy to do with the box full of acid. So I switched back to marine boxes that are strapped down like in a boat so if necessary I can take the whole case out. I only have 2 though, but I went back to 12 volt because I find it more scalable, for example I can add a third without having to add a forth. Little bit less power but the AGM's are also more resilient to being drawn down below 50%. Plus they charge a lot faster on a generator at least if you use the 3 stage converter.
Maybe for you but 1000 watts has been plenty big enough for us. We have fairly modest off-grid power needs. Just a few computers, a TV and some electronics chargers for camera and phones that sort of thing. Having a large inverter would be wasting power for us.
today's modern inverters while they may waste some power, aren't the deficit they used to be. 2500 watts can run an curling for example. however, the use of a Air Conditioner would be illadvised in these pursuits, but oh so nice to have when a little older. Please believe me when I say I admire your willingness to attempt life without the system. I would personally add at least 2 more solar panels. But still get some honda generators,
We aren't rich and have a budget so I guess it's all about allocating your dollars in a way the is best for your own personal lifestyle on the road. It's my preference to cook using the gas stove and oven over a microwave or convection oven or induction hotplate, we don't use a coffee maker so I have no pressing need for a bigger more expensive inverter which demands more battery capacity, solar panels and larger cabling adding more weight. Also, I'm pretty well maxed out on my trailer safe load capacity. I'm actually planning on reducing my inverter size to a 600-watt unit when this 1000w one wears out. I find 1000 is overkill for our needs. I have to carry a generator anyway for recharging when multiple cloudy days hit, so if I ever need to run something high wattage briefly I fire it up. Nowadays they even come with remote start via a key fob.
everyone has a budget. However, doesn't your RV already have an inverter? just shut down the right circuits on your fuze panel and you do not need to waste anything. If your RV is old then go to RV salvage yard and ask for the newer unit, which has a , batt. charger, inverter, fuze box built in. all you need is implement the solar panels. You never needed to buy an inverter anyway, the addional 6v batteries were great innovation.
It looks like you have your 12V RV system wired directly to the right leg of the battery bank an the charging system wired directly to the left leg. The only system that you crossed the connections is the power inverted. Taking in to account the resistance of the cables connecting the two legs, the right leg has more power being pulled from it an the left leg is being charged more. My understanding is that you should have the hot wire connected to one leg an the negative to the other so the resistance is even across all batteries. Not sure how big of a deal that really is but everything I have read on it makes it out to be a big deal.
+RebelCowboySnB Interesting, I wonder how much it means on a small 4 battery bank. I could see as you start piling up batteries and have a very high current bank it could start to make a difference. The RV charger wires are actually crossed and the inverter as well. It's the solar controller wires that are attached to the left leg, allowed me to keep the cable length shorter. I'll have to read up more on this, thanks Ray
Nice Jeff, you have squeezed a lot of power in there. That's quite the inverter! I'm really leaning towards a Tristar controller myself. Thanks for the look. - Ray
![Deep Cycle Battery Charging with your Alternator: The 3 Best Options explained [+ Wiring Diagram]](/img/n.gif)
*Updates* I've upgraded the wires to larger gauge 2/0 and shorter once I met up with a buddy that could do custom cables for me - www.loveyourrv.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/Four-Interstate-6-volt-batteries.jpg
Here is my boondocking system as it basically sits today - www.loveyourrv.com/diy-rv-boondocking-power-system/
The only changes I've made was to swap out a damaged ground panel - www.loveyourrv.com/replacing-damaged-portable-solar-panel-plus-new-mounting/ and added a catastrophic fuse right to the battery post - www.loveyourrv.com/installed-catastrophic-fuse-rv-battery-bank/ The system has worked well for our needs, rarely need to run the generator anymore. Cheers, Ray
So grateful for TH-camrs like you providing information like this for those of us needing education to successfully join the RV community
Hi Ray,
Great walk thru on your upgrade to 4 ea. 6v batteries...Thanks!
I've been reading all the reference links you sent me on 12V electrical and Solar. you set your expansion up pretty much exactly Mark Nemeth recommends. Nice to see the finished product. I'm just starting to read Jack Mayer's RV Electrical/Solar and Mike Sokol's "RV electrical Safety" book ought to be arriving any day now. Just want to say thanks.
You're welcome! :)
Nice video. I just finished installing pretty much the same set-up in my travel trailer, four six volt batteries, 800 watt inverter, and a 200 watt solar system. Plenty of juice now.
Awesome. :)
Hi Ray yes lots of power need more though for my wife has lung problems and I have to have enough power to run a oxygen concentrator 24/7.i'm going to be taking out my 4.5 kW generator and putting in another battery bank should be able to fit 6 to 8 more batteries in that location. Plan on installing more solar panel on my rig as well.
That's quite the mod project, look forward to seeing a video when you're done. :)
Very nice setup. I have a similar setup and would like to recommend a Blue Sky charge controller - the Solar Boost 3000i. I have been very happy with it. Thanks for the videos - Happy Trails.
Thanks!
Thank you for this series, this is just what I needed to get started researching what I want to do for solar.
Mind sharing what you ended up doing?
I haven't done it yet and have not heard of someone else doing it. But when it comes to adding a shunt isn't the breakers you just put in more or less a shunt? To my simple mind of thinking a shunt is just a way of having a "connection point in the same line for amp readings. You have that with your breakers. The only concern would be the fuse part could cause a different reading than what is actually present. Just a thought.
+Jerry Densmore A shunt has a very very low known resistance, a specialized meter can then read the voltage drop to accurately measure the current. The is a good PDF document link here on shunts - www.bogartengineering.com/content/accessories
is there a list of the carrying capabilities of the cargo bins. i know each RV would be different and would also depend on what the bin is made out of, but no sales person ever lists stats like that. With these batteries being what they are, the weight must be enormous. Not to mention 10x fold while bouncing down a bumpy road.
I couldn't find anything published but know that a lot of fifth wheels use the front compartment for batteries and builtin generators. The front compartment is built much more robustly than the sides. The container is sheet metal welded right to the frame. Much like what a car trunk would be made of.
I've inspected often and see no signs of cracked welds or bending after several years of full-timing, often traveling on rough backroads. I have fellow RVer buddies that have installed 4 or even more batteries in the same spot with no issues. The weight of my 4 battery bank is 240 lbs. I have my bank strapped down so it doesn't bounce. Cheers, Ray
Thanks for sharing. I'm researching lithium ions. GreenLife has a 260ah battery for insane price of 2999$ on Amazon. But everything about lithiums is so much better technology and capabilities than the ancient flooded lead acids that even at such a high cost the overall benefits balance out. There's also a battery almost available called the sodium battery which is even better than lithiums. Company based in Finland.
When my lead acids are ready to be replaced hopefully there will be a cost-efficient battery out there. I'll let the early adopters be the guinea pigs like I do with most tech. :)
Really nice clean setup.... Do you do any side work ? :)
Very nice! I have one suggestion though, there should be a disconnect before the charge controller. Since the charge controller requires the solar to be disconnected before disconnecting the controller from the battery bank.
Thanks. There is in the form of a removable fuse, which I've since upgraded to a switchable breaker - www.loveyourrv.com/diy-rv-boondocking-power-system/ Cheers Ray
Can your stock alternator on the tow vehicle safely charge all four batteries as you drive.
Depends on how big of charger you use. If its just the factory tow cable charger then no problem. But some people beef up the wring or add a DC-DC charger. If you do something like that you have to make sure the alternator has the capacity to handle the extra load on it. I just installed on on my new truck - www.loveyourrv.com/renogy-40-amp-dc-dc-charger-installation-and-demo/ Cheers, Ray
Best price on batteries I have found is Duracell at Sams club and Costco (rebranded Interstate) the 6v batteries are $85ea and Costco told me they will accept an AA battery to remove the core charge per battery. Or Batteries Plus has Duracell 6v for $99 and you may get 10% off if you ask for it. Making the price $90ea. You can also ask around to find old batteries people have laying around you can turn in to remove the core charge. There are also 12v AGM 100ah batteries on Amazon shipped for $160.
Cheap!
Very nice Ray you have to look at my video I've got the450 W solar panels across the front of my motorhome going into a TriStar 60 amp PWM I have the same batteries as you and then I have a marine deep cycle hundred amp hour battery for my coach.
And I have 150 W solar panel at the back of the motorhome to charge my batteries during winter. I have the 450w plug into a grid tired inverter.
+Jeff Loitz Sounds like a sweet setup!
all the time you are the genius with your precisely work.
i had a question regarding the power.
i have an invert er 1500 W near to the battery as you said to run the rig boun docking without generator.
my concern that i have connect the core which should gos to generator receptical and inserted in to invert-er to run tv,light,charging phone etc.....
but when i insert the core and start run the invert-er the converter near the inside DP its run as usually to charge the battery thought this power coming from the generator as you said loop like a circle i think you know what i mean.
is this kind of connection will harm the battery or DP or rig converter.
Seems easy to add batteries in a 5th wheel. Where could I put 4 sealed batteries in a travel trailer? I don't think it will work on the tongue. Thanks!
I'm not sure. I guess it depends on your particular trailer. It may not be possible.
Looks like you done a good job and gauge wiring should be more than enough. Nice clean installation!
I just bought a used rv and need a new battery so am planning on buying two and having them wired together. I feel much more informed when I talk to the shop about doing the job. Thanks so much!
You're welcome, Cheers Ray
Hi you have mentioned the ground wire in the beginning of the video. Where is the ground wire coming from, and which components of your system are connected to the ground wire/wires? Thanks a lot
+mosheg77 The ground wire I mentioned is not actually an earth ground. It a cable running from the negative side of the battery bank to the fifth wheel trailers metal frame or commonly called a chassis ground. It was installed by the manufacturer.
From what I've seen though most components in the RV are using a separate negative 12 volt wire and not using the chassis ground as a return.
You are the master. Looking at replacing my two D.C. Batteries. About four years old im guessing. No wiring changes to convert to lithium?
No, it's not as simple as drop-in replacement. Here is the video you need to watch - th-cam.com/video/EHSpJWgeiEw/w-d-xo.html
Cheers Ray
Lookiing to outfit a ram promaster. This looks like it will help.
Cool. Check out this post for an updated look at the install. I shorten and thickened the wiring a bit.
www.loveyourrv.com/diy-rv-boondocking-power-system/ Cheers! Ray
Nice set up and very neat, when you get your new controller if you haven't already, you might would consider mounting it in a wall up in your rig were you can see at ease what's going on with your batteries and panels as far as charging and volt usage.
Thanks! I just got finished installing a new Bogart controller which works in concert with a Trimetric battery monitor - www.loveyourrv.com/bogart-sc2030-cc-and-trimetric-tm2030-rv-installation/
I've read it is best to have the controller as close to the batteries as you can for less power loss when charging. I think his combo will work well because I can see all the info on the Trimetric which is communicating with the controller through a telephone data line. :) - Ray
Well that works even better then, you've got it covered.
We just came back from camping and felt like our two 12 volts were not lasting like they should and then we see this video... Thanks for posting it. I was just telling my wife about upgrading our two 12 volts to two 6 volt AGM's. We must have a parasitic draw of power somewhere.
+RVing Illustrated could it be your propane detector
Install a kill switch to cut off the power from the battery when it is in storage. The little light on the radio/DVD player also draws power. Two 6 volt golf cart batteries would definitely be better, but I’m not aware that they are available in AGM. If it is in storage for most of the time, i recommend a 100 watt solar panel to maintain the battery if a power source is not available to plug in the RV.
Nicely done Ray! Thanks for sharing with all of us.
Nice and organized soft spoken
I'm confused, do all the lights work straight off the battery bank? What about fridge, TV? If so why do you even need an inverter? I thought the inverter seems small but maybe that's because I don't know what it actually goes to. These are general RV type questions.
Most RV electrical circuits will run just off the batteries. Our inverter is only really needed to run our 43" LED TV, my wife's 21" iMac computer, dental water pic and a small shop vacuum. They can only run off of AC power.
We also use its output to plug chargers into for things like camera batteries, electric shaver, phones, tablets and laptops.
Thanks a lot, Ray, for this informative video. Your channel, and the comments section, have a wealth of very useful information.
I'm looking forward to doing a similar project on our travel trailer.
These modifications are time and money well spent.
Happy Camping!
Your most welcome Allen. :)
How can I find out where you sourced all of your switches, fuses, etc. You have a lot of hardware there to acquire. Have you seen anyone do this to a travel trailer? I have a toy hauler travel trailer. Thanks for your help.
Much of the stuff is available on Amazon or at Arizona Wind and Solar. If you check the mod section of my blog I usually link to sources of the parts when I write a post. - www.loveyourrv.com/love-your-rv-mods-and-upgrades/
Great video. Can you remember where you purchased the plastic box? I’m having trouble finding one
They are made by Century Plastics in Richmond BC - www.centuryplastics.ca/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=8&Itemid=7 I picked it up at a local marine supplies store in Victoria BC. In the US I see they are available online at - allbatterysalesandservice.com/catalog/product/view/id/16104/s/century-plastics-heavy-duty-battery-box-holds-4-6-volt-golf-cart-batteries-gcq-g/category/5/
i have a single 12v now but purchased 2 6v that i daisy chained. So can i mow pair the old 12v to thr open 6v positive and negative 6v posts for generator cranking amps fot my 5th wheel? Thanks!
Excellence in motion. One rodent can chew random wires and have fatalities. Bravos to you for installing the extra fail safe for your family, pets and guests. Not to mention your investment. Cheers!
Hello, I was doing some light wiring in my camper. Red and white wire.which is positive red or white.
With RVs, you never really know for sure. Generally, the red will be +12 volts and the white will be -12volts or DC ground. White can also be the AC neutral wire and black the AC hot wire and sometimes they use black as the 12-volt DC positive wire. To know for sure it's a good idea to get a digital multimeter and make some measurements.
If I remember correct, 6 volt batteries need or require a high amp charger in the 15-20 amp range to charge the batteries fully. Would you happened to know what your solar charger is putting out? and can give us your results with this setup so far?
Right now the solar charger is putting out about 20 amps during the peak daily solar hours. Will put out more as the we get into spring and a higher sun angle. I have my solar panels flat mounted.
More important than amperage to completely charge the 6 volts lead acid is voltage. During the absorption phase, I have the solar controller set to 14.8 volts. The Bogart SC2030 controller I recently installed is doing a great job of charging. There is some interesting battery charging info in the last pages of this instruction PDF for it. - bogartengineering.com/sites/default/files/docs/SC2030-9-10-15-UsersInstruc.pdf
For cloudy days or when we have depleted the batteries by using excessive power that the solar can't do the recharge fast enough, I have installed a high-quality battery charger. www.loveyourrv.com/installing-the-inteli-power-pd9260-for-improved-rv-battery-charging/ Between this unit for generator time and the solar controller my battery bank is getting well charged.
On average when boondocking, we use 50 to 100 Amp Hours from sundown to sun up so usually the battery bank never goes below 75% charged. For our lifestyle it's a good sized bank, meets our day to day needs with a little extra capacity even.
+Love Your RV Thanks Ray! I took your advice and read up on the your Bogart controller, It looks like a well thought out controller.
They have good support too. It's a small company, you can actually phone up and talk to the owner and inventor.
Very nice! How many days do you get boondocking with this set up?
It would depend on the temperature and how much we needed to run the furnace, usually 3-5 days with no power input but with the solar and generator to recharge we can boondocking as long as our water and tank space lasts. About 2 weeks or so. Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV I was thinking of going with 2GC interstate extremes to boondock 4 nights only going to use the furnace at sleeping hrs. Don’t know if 2 extrema golf carts would hold though might have to buy a generator
A lot depends on how many things you power, every one has different needs. Here is a video I did showing what we use. I did it a while ago so actually have more solar power now and lithium batteries but it should give you an idea what we do. - www.loveyourrv.com/what-do-we-power-with-500-watts-of-rv-solar/
Hi ray, i currently have a travel trailer with a single 12v battery on the outside, can i switch to 2- 6v batteries and move them inside one of my storage compartments? what would you suggest about ventilation?
+Pierre Dumont You would have to put them into a sealed box then run vent piping. Possibly a little fan. Many people use AGM type batteries for inside compartments as they are sealed and don't vent gases unless badly overcharged. Then you might be able to get away with no seal box.
Just a question, so when you are plugged in the converter still charges the batteries, and if the inverter was hooked to the rig 120 vac system you would not want to use the converter. Just wondering I have seen units where they just used a receptical and plugged the rv into the generator or inverter or shore power to keep it simple. I hope I am not to confused. Will the converter and solar charger work at the same time?
+Ed H The problem arises when you plug the RVs power cord straight into the inverters output. The inverter tries to power the RVs converter which tries to charge the batteries which are powering the inverter and a weird power loop takes place. A simple solution is to flip off the converters breaker so it is disabled. a more elegant an expensive solution is to install an auto power transfer switch .gpelectric.com/products/30-amp-transfer-switch. I prefer to have a dedicated Inverter only outlet in the rig.
All depends on your power needs.
Yes, solar power and converter can charge at the same time.
How come increasing the volts doesn’t double the ah. If I’m connecting 2 batteries my capacity should double
Because each of the batteries are rated at a certain number amp hours at 6 volts. Amps X Volts = Power
So when you series two of the same batteries you are doubling the voltage which doubles the power. When you parallel them voltage stays the same and amps hours double. Either way you are doubling the total power.
By no means am I a expert however I do have experience in the RV Solar World. I am on my 3rd Toyhauler as of last week. I can tell you if you have the extra cash. Purchase 8D-AGM batteries, while these are heavy. They are 10 year Batteries if taken care of. I am not a full time RVer but with 4-8D's I have more then enough power for long weekenders. I never use my built in Onan5500 accept to run night time flood lights for an hour or maybe two now & then.AGM batteries never release gas so no venting.
Cool, sounds like a ton of power. All depends on your budget and weight, space requirements I guess. Gassing is not an issue since our fifth wheels front storage compartment is relatively open to the out side air. More maintenance needed but I do like the fact that I can check each cells state of charge with a hydrometer. Cheers! Ray
The way mine is set up, I plug my RV directly into the inverter - you mention disconnecting the "converter" to avoid a funny loop - can you explain what the converter is? I am new to this and don't want to damage any equipment!
Thanks!
A charger converter is a device that takes the 120V AC shore or generator power and converts it to DC power to charge the batteries The output voltage usually varies between 13.2 - 14.4 volts depending on the state of charge of the batteries. An inverter is a device that takes the 12 volt DC battery power and converts it to 120V ac power to run household outlet type stuff and appliances.
On some of the newer RVs, they are starting to combine the two into one device usually called a Hybrid Inverter Charger. ie. - www.magnum-dimensions.com/product-inverter/3000w-12vdc-pure-sine-hybrid-inverter-charger-msh-series
Where would that converter be located? If I have my trailer plugged directly into my 3000 watt pure sine wave inverter - does that mean the inverter is trying to charge the batteries as well as draw from them?
Very nice install Ray! I’m going to do the same install in my new Cougar. Thanks!
Thanks, Terry, I've upgraded the wires to larger gauge 2/0 and shorter once I met up with a buddy that could do custom cables for me - www.loveyourrv.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/Four-Interstate-6-volt-batteries.jpg
Here is my boondocking system as it basically sits today - www.loveyourrv.com/diy-rv-boondocking-power-system/
The only changes I've made was to swap out a damaged ground panel - www.loveyourrv.com/replacing-damaged-portable-solar-panel-plus-new-mounting/ and added a catastrophic fuse right to the battery post - www.loveyourrv.com/installed-catastrophic-fuse-rv-battery-bank/ The system has worked well for our needs, rarely need to run the generator anymore. Cheers, Ray
Love Your RV Thanks for the quick reply Ray! I was just reading your blog, you’ve done a great job with it. I getting my parts list together so I can order everything. Thanks again for all the great content. Hope you and your wife have a great day.
Hi Ray, looks like you're getting a really great set-up together. One thing you didn't show in the video (and one thing I'm going to need to do soon) is how to get the batteries in and out of the battery box. I'm not sure how much they weigh but I know lead isn't light. lol
Any tips on lifting them in and out?
It's coming along piece by piece. :)
The batteries are about 60 lbs each. Not too bad to lift, it's mostly about technique, keeping them close to your body. I was on my knees in front of the storage bay and lifted pretty well straight up against my body and then over the lip of the storage. Wear old clothes in case a little acid gets on them.
One thing I did to make it easier was to shorten the fiver front jacks so the front of the rig was really low. Means I didn't have to lift them very high and could stay on my knees while doing it. Cheers Ray
+Love Your RV OK, thanks. I guess I'm going to have to start working out now to build up my muscles!! or maybe I'll just call you when the time comes?! lol
+Love Your RV ha ray, you can get a battery holder at any auto parts store, you hook a loop on each terminal which has a strap between them then you can jusst lift then out of the box with ease and carry them. its called a battery carrier
Thanks for the tip, I see the batteries also have a plastic tab on each side. I remember the Interstate battery guy had a strap that hooked into those as well.
there are several type of battery carriers, check with any auto parts store, thell have them. i dont think wal mart and those type of stores carry them. it ill make it alot easier to handle the batterie.
Where did you get the battery box. Great video. Thanks.
They are made by Century Plastics in Richmond BC - www.centuryplastics.ca/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=8&Itemid=7 I picked it up at a local marine supplies store on Victoria BC. In the US I see they are available online at - allbatterysalesandservice.com/catalog/product/view/id/16104/s/century-plastics-heavy-duty-battery-box-holds-4-6-volt-golf-cart-batteries-gcq-g/category/5/
Hi Ray. Did you mount the battery box to the floor of the storage compartment somehow? If so, how? Or do you just count on the weight of the 4 batteries to keep the box stationary? Regards,
If you look near the end of the video - th-cam.com/video/hajteByaQuE/w-d-xo.htmlm13s You can see I have eye bolts bolted through the steel floor and ratchet straps holding the box down. I'd say the weight of the batteries is likely enough in most cases but if I ever do hit some extreme roughness it doesn't hurt to the strapping to keep them from bouncing.
Sorry, I jumped too soon. My bad. Thanks for the response.
You see those big straps? I know they're camo but still visible. 😊
Don’t know if anybody else ever said this, but my understanding is that lead acid batteries will Off-gas hydrogen when charged. Hydrogen is lighter than air so it needs an upward escape path. You’re setup covers this but I just thought other viewers might think that a vent anywhere will do the trick.
Yes, good point, battery boxes usually need two openings to create a chimney effect an lower one below the batteries and an upper one above. Unless a fan is used.
Nice job! Did you look into lithium batteries? I know they are twice as much, but I think they last over 4 times as long. They are a lot lighter for the same total Ah. Thanks
No, they weren't a consideration in my budget. You need not only the battery but a Battery Management System BMS as well and a compatible charge controller. Also, there are concerns about cold temperatures and the tech is still pretty new, and demands more babysitting from what I hear.
We'll see how those longevity claims pan out. Too much cash for me to risk. ;)
If you look at this RV package, you'll see 200AH is around 2000 bucks. - www.lithiumrvbattery.com/Lithium_RV_Battery/RV_LFMP_Package.html
If I had a different style RV where space was limited and weight was critical the Lithium would be much more attractive. I have lots of room and ventilation so can run the cheaper Lead Acids. My 4 cost around $500 bucks
I'll wait until they are worn out in 5 - 7 years, by that time Lithium should be cheaper and any bugs ironed out
Cheers Ray
Hi Ray, do you have any videos that show how you connected your automatic transfer switch? I am trying to wrap my mind around the ATS. Thanks
I have a fairly simple install since are energy needs are minor. I don't need the complexity of a transfer switch - check out the video at the end of this post for my reasoning - www.loveyourrv.com/1000w-pure-sine-wave-inverter/
Cheers Ray
Where did you find that new white battery box? I have been looking for one.
They are made by Century Plastics of Richmond BC, there is a place that sells them - allbatterysalesandservice.com/catalog/product/view/id/16104/s/century-plastics-heavy-duty-battery-box-holds-4-6-volt-golf-cart-batteries-gcq-g/category/5/
Ray, how are these batteries holding up? Might pick some up at Costco soon
Holding up well, have had then a couple years now.
Very nice. Wiring confuses me very easily and you simplified this. Do you still use the two original 12 volt batteries in addition to the new 6 volt batteries? For a total of 6 batteries in total ? I would like to do something simular but hook up my inverter to the house outlets but bypass the microwave outlet and the outlet that is used for the hair dryer. Is this transfer switch you talked about automatic or is it manual?
I have 4 6volt batteries now. In this newer video, there is a piece where I show the even more simplified battery wiring. th-cam.com/video/uRbGmxun1LI/w-d-xo.html
Also have a look at this updated video - th-cam.com/video/yV2xJiHSbfU/w-d-xo.html for inverter information. Cheers Ray
I have 4 6volt batteries now. In this newer video, there is a piece where I show the even more simplified battery wiring. th-cam.com/video/uRbGmxun1LI/w-d-xo.html
Also have a look at this updated video - th-cam.com/video/yV2xJiHSbfU/w-d-xo.html for inverter information. Cheers Ray
Thank you for your answer Ray. When the batteries are being charged by the solar panels, do you not have your RV hooked to shore power? Can the batteries be charged from both forms of power at the same time?
Yes, I charge with both at the same time the solar controller is smart enough to figure it out. I leave them both hooked up.
Thanks as usual for a complete and step by step video!!!
Thanks, I've since upgraded the wire to a larger gauge 2/0 and shorter runs by having a buddy of mine custom build exact length cables - cdn.loveyourrv.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/Four-Interstate-6-volt-batteries.jpg
What model are these batteries and how are you liking them still. I've been debating going 6v in series or going with 2 Odyssey PC-2150S batteries help me out.
GC2-HD-UTL No complaints, they have been good given the inexpensive price. I paid around $125 a piece with core trade-in.
AGM will be more expensive. There are pros and cons to each technology. www.crownbattery.com/news/agm-vs-flooded-batteries-what-you-need-to-know
Here is a link to a great article about what is a true deep cycle battery - marinehowto.com/what-is-a-deep-cycle-battery/ Cheers Ray
i commend you for all your informative videos....so many full time rv videos are on location, and their laundry days,,,lol...your videos my friend are sooo informative on how to and what you constantly upgrade...thank you...thank you
Thanks very much! I love to try and do things myself. It's fun to learn and tinker and share my projects with so many. It's also a good way to make sure I did it right. There is a ton of expertise in the TH-cam audience. :)
Glad you like the vids, Cheers Ray
Does this configuration allow for use of an AC unit while dry camping? Thanks @loveyourv
No, it doesn't not enough battery power or high enough wattage inverter. Building a system able to run the AC off battery power can get quite expensive. Cheers, Ray
What's the advantage to going with the 6 volts vs just putting 12v in?
The 6 volt is taller so more compact from a floor space perspective, they have heavier/thicker lead plates than most 12-volt batteries that call themselves deep cycle so can handle deeper more often discharge cycles before wearing out, good bang for the buck price wise. Here is a good article - marinehowto.com/what-is-a-deep-cycle-battery/ Cheers, Ray
Your work is very clean, I'm impressed. Have you weighed the trailer? That is a lot of tongue weight.
Ya, we are still 900 lbs under GVWR, it's a fifth wheel and we have a 1 ton dually truck so the extra hitch weight is not a problem either. :)
more amp hours = longer run time do the solar panels need to be higher? so 400 ah battery require 400+ solar thanks
Depends on where and what time of the year but in general terms between 400 - 600 watts of solar is a good match.
looking at 850 wind and 400 solar we boondock for two weeks of the year right now on the Oregon coast the last time we used the 5th wheel were running out of juice in a couple days and had to run generator to recharge I have 3 cheap batteries right now heater really sucks juice thanks for the info and videos still learning this will be our second year with the RV again thanks
Where did you get the plastic container from for the batteries? Thanks!
+matteo4m I got it at a local marine supply store, but here is an online source with the same box - www.allbatterysalesandservice.com/browse.cfm/4,5576.html - Ray
Looks very professional. Great job 👏
How do you decide to use a fuse vs a breaker? On some systems Ive seen, they use all fuses.
A switchable breaker is nice since you can then easily turn off different circuits for testing or maintenance.
Here is my system as it is now - www.loveyourrv.com/diy-rv-boondocking-power-system/
Ok I watched more vid and got my answer at about 3:50 on vid 2, 12v with 232 amp hrs, in parallel= total very good. I may find room somewhere on my Hideout to do the same Great vid keep it up.
We’re did you purchase the plastics boxs for the golf cart batteries from
They are made by Century Plastics in Richmond BC - www.centuryplastics.ca/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=8&Itemid=7 I picked it up at a local marine supplies store in Victoria BC. In the US I see they are available online at - allbatterysalesandservice.com/catalog/product/view/id/16104/s/century-plastics-heavy-duty-battery-box-holds-4-6-volt-golf-cart-batteries-gcq-g/category/5/ Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV thank you
Nice job, but I was curious why did you run 6v batteries instead of 12v deep cycle. was it due to cost or due to amp hours?
The have a smaller footprint (taller) so fit nicely into the storage bay.
Hi Ray love yor channel. You have swapped Trojan for Interstate, are Interstate a better brand? thx in advance
Hi Dino, thanks. :)
Not sure if better or not yet, Trojans are highly thought of, but the Interstates were a pretty good price, have lots of dealers in case of a failure and I've used the brand in our big diesel truck for years with good results so thought I would give them a try when it came to replacement. So far they seem to be performing well but time will tell.
Thanks Ray
Hey Ray, What model number of interstate batteries are you using, or would recommend ?
+Tom Jordan I have the GC2-XHD-UTL models. Been working well.
What are The benefits of using 4? 6 volt bateries vs 2 12 bolt
The 6 volt is taller so more compact from a floor space perspective, they have heavier/thicker lead plates than most 12-volt batteries that call themselves deep cycle so can handle deeper more often discharge cycles before wearing out, good bang for the buck price wise. Here is a good article - marinehowto.com/what-is-a-deep-cycle-battery/ Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV Thanks I'll read the article
Am I wrong.? You say in series you quad your amp hrs. I was always taught the amp hrs stays the same as in one 6V battery?
Each battery is most likely 116 amp/hr. Put two in serries you get 116 amp/hr. Put two in parallel you get 232 amp/hr. Put two packs of two serial batteries with two parallel and you ger 232 amp. The main idea here is he needs 12v for output so he has two pairs of batteries.
Nice work. Is your inverter a Pure Sine, and are you thinking about going bigger? My last toy hauler I had 1500w and found I wanted more. It was modified and that may have been part of my problems? I am going with the 3000w Pure this time.
Thanks, I'll stay with 1000w, it's plenty for us. We are mainly interested in powering our electronic gear, computers, camera chargers, laptop, LED TV etc. It's a pure sine wave. I also carry a couple 2000w generators if I really need to power up a big load, even the AC.
Cool. Thanks for the reply. Long time viewer, just subscribed a few days ago. Love your video of Ed's set-up. Going to try and go between your solar set-up and Ed's.
Thanks for the sub. I will be putting up a video soon detailing one of Eddie's recent installs he did for a friend. They videod all the install steps and send the clips to me. I'm going to put together and uploaded pretty soon.
I think it will close to what you're looking for as it's kinda in between and Eddie got to start it from a clean slate. Cheers Ray
Part of adapting to solar is to reduce your need for electricity, especially 110/115/120 volt. Plan on propane to "power" your high draw items and forget about running roof air (even one) on solar. You can throw money at a bigger and bigger solar system to keep your pre-RV lifestyle intact yet... part of the fun is seeing how little electricity you can get by on. If you do size up...it would be to have enough electricity during those longer stretches without enough sun.
What about lithium batteries hidden in your stairs when you getting in your RV?
+Terry Rodbourn I'm not sure what you 're asking
Hey Ray I'm new to following you, so I am going to ask A couple dumb questions where did you get that big plastic box for your 4 new batteries and what kind of batteries are they besides 6 volt? I appreciate you! you do good work got me upgrading to go Boondocking yeha!!! thanks Dave
Hi Dave, No Problem. :) I got the box at a local boating supply store but here is a link to an online place that sells the same boxes - www.allbatterysalesandservice.com/browse.cfm/4,5576.html
The batteries are Interstate GC2-XHD-ULT Cheers Ray
+Love Your RV Hey Ray... :) I appreciate the info. I am old and retired and gotta admit the adventure of boondocking is exciting but I am getting nervous about it all... later Dave
You're welcome. It's lots of fun! Loads of people boondock.
Nice wiring job Ray.
Thanks, that was the best I could do at the time with off the shelf stuff. Since then I have had a chance to run into a buddy of mine who does custom wiring, so had 2/0 GA installed as short as possible.
www.loveyourrv.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/Four-Interstate-6-volt-batteries.jpg
The new wiring looks even better Ray. Those batteries plus 400 watts of solar should be the cat's meow. 99% of my camping was dry camping in Idaho. I understand all you are doing and why.. Good luck and look forward to your next video. Oh, never had a power awning. That would make things much easier.
Stunning work, great to see a job done right, you are clearly a perfectionist..
Well done! Super clean! Thanks for posting.
Thanks, since then I've had some cables custom built to replace the off the shelf ones I initially used, shortened and thickened to 2/0 gauge - www.loveyourrv.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/Interstate-battery-bank.jpg
www.loveyourrv.com/20-rv-upgrades-fifth-wheel-trailer/ Cheers, Ray
Love Your RV Yes I watched the upgrades videos just now. Very clean work. I’m looking to do something similar. Allot of great info here. Thanks again!
lets say you have two 6v 100ah and you connect them to have 12v batter would they be 12v 100ah or 12v 200ah?
12v 100ah
Actually that's correct but in a normal 12v 100ah battery you would only be able to get 50 ah before you have to recharge it. Since you have two 6v 100 ah batteries and each will give you 50 ah. Wouldn't you get a full 100 ah out of the 6v system before recharge?
The two 6s act as one 12v when wired in series. The AH capacity stays the same and would still need to be recharged after 50 AH.
www.trojanbattery.com/Tech-Support/TechologyLibrary/ConnectionsDiagram.aspx
And note that the price of one 6v 100ah battery almost the same price as 12v 100ah, so 12v batteries as you get double amperage in smaller size with the same price although 6v connected in series may perform better and live longer.
Do you have a link to those prices? I've found generally 6-volt batteries to be twice the AH rating of 12-volt for the same price range.
Give me an idea how much stuff you can run off just the batteries and for how long. Doesn't have to be exact, I'm just trying to wrap my head around what the reality is.
Our battery bank has a rated capacity of 464 amp hours so it would put out 1 amp for 464 hours before it was completely dead. However, it's recommended by most lead-acid battery manufacturers to not let the batteries drop below 50% state of charge so effectively unless it's an emergency situation we only have 232 amp hours to play with.
In our routine days, we use between 10 to 20% of our capacity. It can vary depending for the most part on temperature. Long cold winter nights mean we run the RV furnace tons more who's fan draws 6-8 amps, also when cold lead acid batteries lose capacity.
So we could go 5 days in warm weather 80F days and 50F nights or 2.5 days on cool weather 50F days and 30F night.
In a typical working day, I run my 17" laptop 8 hours and my wife runs her 21" iMac desktop roughly the same, we also may watch 2 hours of TV. Those are out big power drains. Added to this typical power load will be some stuff charging like the cell phones, camera batteries, etc and the loses in wiring and the inverter circuits.
If we were to go to extreme power conservation and only run LED lights the rig still drains around 25AH a day with stuff like the fridge control board, propane detector, and other parasitic loads, so we could in warm weather max our 50% battery drain at around 9 days.
If you want to find out how other things will drain the battery, find their wattage. Use the formula watts=amps x volts
So an 800-watt microwave takes roughly 800/12 = 66.6 amps to run. It would drain the battery bank to 50% if run constantly at its rated wattage for around 3.5 hours. You can see there are a lot of variables depending on how folks consume energy that's why the best thing to do is install a battery monitor system that can track usage in amp hours. Then use the rig and see how much you use typically, then build the battery bank and solar system to meet the needs. Cheers, Ray
As always Ray, thanks! I can almost hear Mr Rogers explaining to me how to make my own off grid nuclear reactor out of a potato, a milk carton and a paper clip. : )
hey man! my SGM battery doesnt seem to want to charge from the solar. Did i wreak my battery?
Does it charge from a regular battery charger?
havent tried yet. my regular charger is at my inlaws. ill try and get it from them tomorrow. any thoughts?
hello I'm a newbie, why does every video say golf cart batteries, why wouldn't you use car batteries , is their a difference ?? why not get 2 12volt batteries instead of 4 6volt batteries ??
You'll find a thorough explanation here - www.pbase.com/mainecruising/deep_cycle_battery
nice video. what company did you buy thr dual battery box from?
I bought it locally in Victoria, BC at a marine supplier but It's online at - www.allbatterysalesandservice.com/browse.cfm/4,5576.html Cheers Ray
thank you
Where did you get the battery box? Great video by the way...
Local marine parts supplier but it is online here - www.allbatterysalesandservice.com/browse.cfm/4,5576.html
Cheers Ray
i ran across a free RV from the 80's the other day, i think i should have just paid for one, so far I've managed to discharge all 3 of it's batteries (it has two deep cycle 95 ah, and one just regular car battery)well not me, my sister left something on while i was out of town, so for 3 weeks it was unchecked, all 3 batteries have no reading on a meter lol, they look old anyways, so now that they are old and prolly cut short in life from this 3 weeks at 0 volts i might as well buy new ones, i just have no clue about batteries, i hear 6v golf cart batteries seem to be better, but i don't really know why, or if that's true.
this video was very nice, thank you for all this info :)
Is there a specific advantage to using 6v batteries as opposed to 12v?
Generally they are built a little more rugged ( they are built for golf carts) and have thicker lead plates. They are taller so take a smaller footprint. They can also usually handle more deep discharges than regular 12 volt deep cycles.
They also tend to give you the best bang for your buck and are tried and tested over the years so tend to work well with all chargers.
Nicely done. Thanks for sharing
Charlie of Charlie and Martha (Wandering Toes)
You're welcome. I've changed a few things since the original install. The wiring has been shortened and beefed up a bit. You can see it here - th-cam.com/video/2zNTbMoUqBE/w-d-xo.htmlm2s Cheers Ray
ray you should draw your pos and neg from one side only...
+UH-1 I have also heard that is supposed to be the best way for balancing the bank. But I also charge on one side and draw from the other like so many do with not too much trouble. Maybe some better info will get me and others to change their views.
Thanks, UH-1. Do you have any links to more info on this I wonder how much difference it really makes on a small 4 battery bank.
4:20 are you talking about the top right battery having two positive wires connected to it? Looks like one comes from the trailer and one goes to another battery.
+aguyandhiscomputer I actually ended up later in the video changing that connection when I installed my disconnect switch. Here is an interesting article I found on hooking up multiple batteries in a bank - www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con.html Looks like the best way to hook up the bank is on opposite corners. So the load and charging to each leg is equal. That looks like the theory anyway.
What is better??? 4 6volt or 2 12volt deep cells??
That's a pretty general comparison, but a great many people like to use the 6V golf cart type wet cell batteries believing they give the best bang for the buck. Some will spend more money and go with 12V AGM type which need less maintenance and ventilation than the wet cells.
It is recommended that the kill switch is connected to the negative terminal, not the positive.
I've heard it debated both ways. Some say negative some say positive, doesn't really matter much in my opinion. Here is an example instruction manual from Blue Sea showing a positive hookup diagram - assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/instructions/6006_web_version.pdf
Personally, I like to have all my switches, breakers and fuses on the positive cables for consistency. Cheers, Ray
how do I find people to hook up my system. cuz I don't get it.
Anyone who does solar power installations would be a good bet. They would have the knowledge and the tools to do it. Here is another good video to watch - th-cam.com/video/ARKwl7lxHWo/w-d-xo.html Cheers Ray
You did a clean job
Where did you get the battery box at??
I got it at a local marine supply store, but here is an online source with the same box - www.allbatterysalesandservice.com/browse.cfm/4,5576.html - Ray
good job Ray.
Thanks Ray, enjoyed the video.
very nice clean install.
Really clean work. Very cool.
I thought inverters of that sort had their own electronic protection?
They do, fuses and circuit breakers are to protect wiring from overheating in the case of a direct short circuit.
Also I am not sure you had to upgrade the cables over the original installation as the 1 gauge runs were not very long and the biggest draw on the 12 volt is probably the inverter if you are running close to capacity.
I used to run T-6's but one winter they froze (battery maintainer somehow got unplugged and panels snowed over) and what a mess! Battery acid everywhere. So I switched to AGM even though they are quite a bit more money. The T-6's were in a white box like the one you show but the dealer had screwed it down so somehow the batteries had to come up and out, not easy to do with the box full of acid. So I switched back to marine boxes that are strapped down like in a boat so if necessary I can take the whole case out. I only have 2 though, but I went back to 12 volt because I find it more scalable, for example I can add a third without having to add a forth. Little bit less power but the AGM's are also more resilient to being drawn down below 50%. Plus they charge a lot faster on a generator at least if you use the 3 stage converter.
Is that enough to start a car?
Oh, yes for sure. I have jumpstarted our diesel pickup truck of them.
inverter needs to be lots bigger. They sell 2500 wawtt inverters in almost any truck stop in America.
Maybe for you but 1000 watts has been plenty big enough for us. We have fairly modest off-grid power needs. Just a few computers, a TV and some electronics chargers for camera and phones that sort of thing. Having a large inverter would be wasting power for us.
today's modern inverters while they may waste some power, aren't the deficit they used to be. 2500 watts can run an curling for example. however, the use of a Air Conditioner would be illadvised in these pursuits, but oh so nice to have when a little older. Please believe me when I say I admire your willingness to attempt life without the system. I would personally add at least 2 more solar panels. But still get some honda generators,
We aren't rich and have a budget so I guess it's all about allocating your dollars in a way the is best for your own personal lifestyle on the road. It's my preference to cook using the gas stove and oven over a microwave or convection oven or induction hotplate, we don't use a coffee maker so I have no pressing need for a bigger more expensive inverter which demands more battery capacity, solar panels and larger cabling adding more weight. Also, I'm pretty well maxed out on my trailer safe load capacity. I'm actually planning on reducing my inverter size to a 600-watt unit when this 1000w one wears out. I find 1000 is overkill for our needs. I have to carry a generator anyway for recharging when multiple cloudy days hit, so if I ever need to run something high wattage briefly I fire it up. Nowadays they even come with remote start via a key fob.
everyone has a budget. However, doesn't your RV already have an inverter? just shut down the right circuits on your fuze panel and you do not need to waste anything. If your RV is old then go to RV salvage yard and ask for the newer unit, which has a , batt. charger, inverter, fuze box built in. all you need is implement the solar panels. You never needed to buy an inverter anyway, the addional 6v batteries were great innovation.
Sorry i should have thought about it earlier, sorry I didn't. Today's RV's are much more capable of handling off grid systems then yesteryear.
It looks like you have your 12V RV system wired directly to the right leg of the battery bank an the charging system wired directly to the left leg. The only system that you crossed the connections is the power inverted. Taking in to account the resistance of the cables connecting the two legs, the right leg has more power being pulled from it an the left leg is being charged more. My understanding is that you should have the hot wire connected to one leg an the negative to the other so the resistance is even across all batteries. Not sure how big of a deal that really is but everything I have read on it makes it out to be a big deal.
+RebelCowboySnB Interesting, I wonder how much it means on a small 4 battery bank. I could see as you start piling up batteries and have a very high current bank it could start to make a difference.
The RV charger wires are actually crossed and the inverter as well. It's the solar controller wires that are attached to the left leg, allowed me to keep the cable length shorter. I'll have to read up more on this, thanks Ray
Great video and tips
Nice setup.
Nice job.
Well could not find old vid so made new ones
Nice Jeff, you have squeezed a lot of power in there. That's quite the inverter! I'm really leaning towards a Tristar controller myself. Thanks for the look. - Ray
Fantastic video thank you.