We have launched our own website and line of batteries! Check out Rockymountainlithium.com for all your power needs! We have had several requests for technical help with troubleshooting, installing or designing electrical systems, so we’ve set up an option for paid consulting service below. If you’d like expert technical help you can click the link below and schedule and appointment. Thank you! web.lokiapp.live/Travis.Call/g9Er
My only question is since this is a 30 amp service, I see you have the 30 amp main breaker but then there are 2- 20’s and a split breaker that’s tough to see…this all adds up to more than 30 amp. Does that mean you can only have certain breakers on at certain times so they don’t trip or am I not understanding how the system works? Thank you
All breakers are on at the same time, the breakers are to control the upper limit of power usage. So a 15 amp breaker may only have 1 amp flowing through it depending on what power is being used. It’s possible the total current from all the smaller circuits could exceed the 30 amp limit without exceeding any individual circuit breaker limits. That’s why the main breaker exists. So overall you just monitor total power useage at any given time. Same scenario is possible in a house, too many devices on at one time could trip the main breaker.
@@Cpmobile Ok thank you. I’m trying to determine whether to go with a 30 or 50 amp service on my race trailer which has small living quarters. I’ll have 8 total 110 receptacles, 1 for a plug in AC unit, 1 for a small air compressor, 1 for a car battery charger and 1 for the converter/charger…the rest are just misc. DC power will be water pump, shower fan, car winch and low voltage LED exterior/interior lights. The trailer will be plugged into a portable generator all the time. Based on what you’re saying I think a 30 amp service would be sufficient because not all of these things will be on or used at the same time.
Absolutely wonderful explanation and beautiful board. It takes a lot of effort to make that board. Just letting you know, it is recognized. You do scare me with how many components you touch with bare hands.
Thank you for making these videos. I’m trying to better understand how power works in our 5th wheel because I’d like to (eventually) be able to install solar that will run the unit when shore power isn’t available. I’d also like to install an onboard generator. Starting with the basics, this is incredibly helpful. Thank you!!
Great and simple to understand video. Your board layout makes it far more easily understood than watching someone quickly pointing to this and that part, (which was hard to see in dark corners) while talking. Thanks for the best tutorial yet!!
Very niiiiice display and simple, but comprehensive overview of the electrical power on RV’s!!! Best dang explanation and display I’ve ever seen!!! 👍😃🍻
OUTSTANDING VIDEO! Thank you very much for making this video. I was struggling to understand the RV wiring "wizardry", but you cleared it up in a very professional manner.
First thanks for your knowledge much appreciated. My 5th wheel was working without a battery for 3 months and recently my fridge and lights went out and no fuse is blown out
WHy do u run the converter through the power distribution box? why not go strait to the battery from the converter? thanks again for taking the time to answer my newbie questions
Either way could work fine, typically the converter is just located close to the power distribution box, and it has dedicated terminals to connect the converter to, so it’s just simpler than running another set of cables to the batteries.
I have a 84 Tioga class C. It has a 45a series 6300 converter/charger in it from the factory. i am installing 400w solar panels on the roof. How can channel the solar power to the rv 12-volt system? If I buy an inverter, how do I route that into the system? Do I plug it in where the off shore plug goes? last question. I can only find the 12v fuses in the box, not the 120 breakers? Would they put the breakers somewhere else?
Great Video. I have T T with a 12 volt only refrigerator. I was hoping to place with a 120 volt one. any tips on wiring it. Do I go straight to breaker with a outlet or if I use an inverter will it run off 12 volt like the original?
I have a 4,000wt continuous solar generator. I want to put it under the bed in my rv and run wire to my control panel. I also want to put a 12vt lithium house battery under there. I plan on adding 12vt small fans to pull air under the bed and out the pass thru. What is my best way? I want my all in 1 solar generator to take the place of my exterior 30amp cord. Jonesy Nw Arizona
Really like the video! New RV owner. I was wondering if I can shut the converter off so just the AC outlets are powered. I have a solar charger and dont want to suck juice for battery charging from my power station.
Yes, no problem with doing that. You can turn the circuit breaker off for the converter. Sometimes the converter will be in the same circuit as some outlets so that’s the only potential drawback.
Hi Travis. Thank you for this video. In my 1994 Odessa RV I only have 12 volt appliances when either the key is in the on position or we are hooked to shore power. Any idea why I don't have 12 volt service when the coach is off and not hooked up to shore power? I believe it should and it does not.
Hello, it sounds like we aren’t getting any power from the house battery, so I would verify the house battery is in good condition and charged, as well as making sure the connection between the house battery and power distribution panel is good. Look for any blown fuses or tripped 12v circuit breakers.
Wow what a great video, i will share this in our van build groups. Can i please ask a question? If i wanted to add an inverter to power small fridge, microwave and outlets, where would that be wired in?
Of course, I have a couple of video that explain exactly that, check my channel for the videos about rv inverters and it should explain pretty well. And if you have more questions feel free to ask, thanks!
An inverter convert the 12 Volts DC to 120 volts AC. At the back of your inverter, there will be a Red (+) , Black (-) and Ground terminal. This is were you connect your 12 Volt DC battery. On the front of the inverter, there will be a typical wall receiver like in your home. Or a L1 (line) N (neutral) and Ground terminal that you can do your circuit with. Don’t forget to always protect your circuit with the appropriate fuse or breaker. Since tou probably gonna use #14/2 gage wire, use a 15Amp protection.
Great videos so if i have the renogy 3000W inverter/charger i wouldnt go with this set up i would go with the set up on your other video? Or can you also run a inverter/charger like on this video?
Yes, in most cases I would run that inverter in a setup like the video with the victron inverter, where the inverter is in line before the power distribution panel, so all circuits get power from the inverter.
I am looking to do an electrical install on an enclosed trailer. My plan is 12v led lights and then 3 110 outlets. I only want to run a regular extension cord to the shore power and just have one battery for lighting only. How would I go about that?
Hi, the best way to accomplish that would be to use a power distribution panel like the Wfco 8735 ad, that handles both 12v and 120v power distribution. Use a 15 amp shore power inlet to supply the 120v side and the battery hookups to distribute 12v power to the lights. That unit includes a converter (battery charger) to charge the battery when plugged in.
I have watched all your video's and really appreciate you sharing your knowledge. I was having a hard time windering if there was a transfer switch for an inverter install if you had shore and generator in a transfer switch already. Basically a 3 way transfer switch. Would you go inverter, or solar generator for boondocking. I am leaning towards the Opus Mega 2 since it has a 30amp plug and I can just plug it into the toyhauler. It also has the ability to be mobile and I can recharge with portable solar.
I think either can work well depending on what you want. For me the best case is to have it all built in to the rv. Solar, inverter, batteries etc so it all just functions as if you were plugged in to the grid.
Amazing video! Thank you for your detailed explanation. Really helps in visualizing everything. Even for me as an European, with some differences in voltages en distribution en connections. Thank you :)
Most of the time you will find the same 14ga wire that is used for lights, water pump etc. There is very little current to feed a thermostat though, so down to 18 or 20 gauge would work fine as well.
You could do it that way depending on what you want from your system. This scenario is an example of a standard RV electrical system, which uses ac/dc. This setup keeps all the existing infrastructure, keeping it fairly simple and allowing it to work as designed.
I blew up a 12v combo 120 Tv:(( Both power plugs were plugged in, and POW:(((Cooked the tv circuit board…Would be nice to separate each system in Rv, or the Tv .Im old and can’t figure what happened…I made it more complicated by connecting a lithium charger with Rv charger leads to 50ah battery. And then having to remember to kill main power sw on Rv frame outside each time Generator is on. Or I will have 24 volts to 12v items.Believe it or not, gas detector module by stove chirps for a second and a blue light flashes once to remind me to hit main switch, and not forget. Furnace motor goes on high(24v ) for a second simultaneously with detector. So separate systems though costly are in order.:))))lol
i thinkis its dumb to have the lights running off 12 volt. and dont forget you can have all the power you want but if you have a small drop cord feeding your rv you are power limited lol
Weren't the Lights representative of of appliances and the "small drop cord" for demonstration? Most RV lights are 12v LEDs and draw close to nothing so why not use them on 12v circuit. Besides when your not on "shore power" what will you do for light?😅
We have launched our own website and line of batteries! Check out Rockymountainlithium.com for all your power needs!
We have had several requests for technical help with troubleshooting, installing or designing electrical systems, so we’ve set up an option for paid consulting service below. If you’d like expert technical help you can click the link below and schedule and appointment. Thank you!
web.lokiapp.live/Travis.Call/g9Er
My only question is since this is a 30 amp service, I see you have the 30 amp main breaker but then there are 2- 20’s and a split breaker that’s tough to see…this all adds up to more than 30 amp. Does that mean you can only have certain breakers on at certain times so they don’t trip or am I not understanding how the system works? Thank you
All breakers are on at the same time, the breakers are to control the upper limit of power usage. So a 15 amp breaker may only have 1 amp flowing through it depending on what power is being used. It’s possible the total current from all the smaller circuits could exceed the 30 amp limit without exceeding any individual circuit breaker limits. That’s why the main breaker exists. So overall you just monitor total power useage at any given time. Same scenario is possible in a house, too many devices on at one time could trip the main breaker.
@@Cpmobile Ok thank you. I’m trying to determine whether to go with a 30 or 50 amp service on my race trailer which has small living quarters. I’ll have 8 total 110 receptacles, 1 for a plug in AC unit, 1 for a small air compressor, 1 for a car battery charger and 1 for the converter/charger…the rest are just misc. DC power will be water pump, shower fan, car winch and low voltage LED exterior/interior lights. The trailer will be plugged into a portable generator all the time. Based on what you’re saying I think a 30 amp service would be sufficient because not all of these things will be on or used at the same time.
The big board really helps explain what happens and where it happens. Great explanation.
Wow! Best video I’ve seen on this. That guy knows his stuff!
Thanks Nathan!
Absolutely wonderful explanation and beautiful board. It takes a lot of effort to make that board. Just letting you know, it is recognized. You do scare me with how many components you touch with bare hands.
Thanks Shane!
This video helped tremendously!! Thank you for posting it!
Awesome video, I've learned more from this video than 100's of others. Thanks
Thanks Andy!
This is awesome. Great job on breaking it all down with the visual board! Very easy to understand--thank you.
Thank you for making these videos. I’m trying to better understand how power works in our 5th wheel because I’d like to (eventually) be able to install solar that will run the unit when shore power isn’t available. I’d also like to install an onboard generator. Starting with the basics, this is incredibly helpful. Thank you!!
Thank you!
Amazing. Easily the best video on this subject. Thank you!!
Awesome demonstration! I’ve been searching for a system without solar. Thanks so much
Awesome job explaining this with the board
Great visuals representation of the system. Clear explanation! Thank you.
Great and simple to understand video. Your board layout makes it far more easily understood than watching someone quickly pointing to this and that part, (which was hard to see in dark corners) while talking. Thanks for the best tutorial yet!!
Wow! I learned a lot from this. Thank you for the visuals- they helped a lot.
Very niiiiice display and simple, but comprehensive overview of the electrical power on RV’s!!! Best dang explanation and display I’ve ever seen!!!
👍😃🍻
OUTSTANDING VIDEO! Thank you very much for making this video. I was struggling to understand the RV wiring "wizardry", but you cleared it up in a very professional manner.
Excellent video! Thank you.
Outstanding video showing the basic RV electrical system. Thanks for sharing.
You're welcome!
Great video guys!
Great layout, should help anyone wanting to run a good solar generator, inverter, in a rv to stand alone
Awesome info, thanks!
Thanks for the very well produced video! Very informative.
First thanks for your knowledge much appreciated.
My 5th wheel was working without a battery for 3 months and recently my fridge and lights went out and no fuse is blown out
You could check for seperate dedicated breakers or fuses near the batteries, sometimes they can be hidden behind an access panel
Thanks for posting this man, it helps
Very nice video on RV wiring. Thanks.
Thank you very much. Excellent explanation and I really appreciate it.
The lines coming off the batteries with the coupler. What is that for? This video was very helpful in the planning of my system. Thank you!
It was not used in this setup, but was connected to inverters in the other videos
Thank you very clear presentation
WHy do u run the converter through the power distribution box? why not go strait to the battery from the converter? thanks again for taking the time to answer my newbie questions
Either way could work fine, typically the converter is just located close to the power distribution box, and it has dedicated terminals to connect the converter to, so it’s just simpler than running another set of cables to the batteries.
@@Cpmobile ok i didnt realize the distribution box would be easier but makes sense. thanks!!
I have a 84 Tioga class C. It has a 45a series 6300 converter/charger in it from the factory. i am installing 400w solar panels on the roof. How can channel the solar power to the rv 12-volt system? If I buy an inverter, how do I route that into the system? Do I plug it in where the off shore plug goes? last question. I can only find the 12v fuses in the box, not the 120 breakers? Would they put the breakers somewhere else?
Great video! That just answered several questions I had. 👍
Outstanding!!!!
We'd like to see or have you link us to anything showing what the differences are between grounding and bonding. Thanks.
Great Video. I have T T with a 12 volt only refrigerator. I was hoping to place with a 120 volt one. any tips on wiring it. Do I go straight to breaker with a outlet or if I use an inverter will it run off 12 volt like the original?
An inverter would be a good option for this, we have 2 other videos about inverters that should help explain how it would work
super helpful! many thanks!
Thanks great video.
great job!!
I have a 4,000wt continuous solar generator. I want to put it under the bed in my rv and run wire to my control panel.
I also want to put a 12vt lithium house battery under there. I plan on adding 12vt small fans to pull air under the bed and out the pass thru. What is my best way? I want my all in 1 solar generator to take the place of my exterior 30amp cord.
Jonesy
Nw Arizona
Really like the video! New RV owner. I was wondering if I can shut the converter off so just the AC outlets are powered. I have a solar charger and dont want to suck juice for battery charging from my power station.
Yes, no problem with doing that. You can turn the circuit breaker off for the converter. Sometimes the converter will be in the same circuit as some outlets so that’s the only potential drawback.
well done Sir thank you !! subbed !
Could you link the power distribution panel and the converter as well?
How does the inverter come in through the transfer switch and only selects certain circuits in order not to blow up the inverter?
I have 2 other videos showing inverter setups, those should help clear it up
Hi Travis. Thank you for this video. In my 1994 Odessa RV
I only have 12 volt appliances when either the key is in the on position or we are hooked to shore power. Any idea why I don't have 12 volt service when the coach is off and not hooked up to shore power? I believe it should and it does not.
Hello, it sounds like we aren’t getting any power from the house battery, so I would verify the house battery is in good condition and charged, as well as making sure the connection between the house battery and power distribution panel is good. Look for any blown fuses or tripped 12v circuit breakers.
Excellent vid
How did you wire your batteries, parallel or series hook up
Since this is a 12v system with 12v batteries, they are connected in parallel
Very good most helpful thank you.
Thank you.
Perfect diagram
Wow what a great video, i will share this in our van build groups. Can i please ask a question? If i wanted to add an inverter to power small fridge, microwave and outlets, where would that be wired in?
Of course, I have a couple of video that explain exactly that, check my channel for the videos about rv inverters and it should explain pretty well. And if you have more questions feel free to ask, thanks!
An inverter convert the 12 Volts DC to 120 volts AC.
At the back of your inverter, there will be a Red (+) , Black (-) and Ground terminal. This is were you connect your 12 Volt DC battery.
On the front of the inverter, there will be a typical wall receiver like in your home. Or a L1 (line) N (neutral) and Ground terminal that you can do your circuit with.
Don’t forget to always protect your circuit with the appropriate fuse or breaker.
Since tou probably gonna use #14/2 gage wire, use a 15Amp protection.
@@Cpmobile i will check it out thanks!
@@eltoutnu thanks for the info !
Great videos so if i have the renogy 3000W inverter/charger i wouldnt go with this set up i would go with the set up on your other video? Or can you also run a inverter/charger like on this video?
Yes, in most cases I would run that inverter in a setup like the video with the victron inverter, where the inverter is in line before the power distribution panel, so all circuits get power from the inverter.
So i need different lights if i want to remove the battery and the converter.
Or just move the wire to the microwave circuit. (Only 900w out of the 1500w it's given)
What gage wire do you use for battery two circuit breaker panel
It varies, ultimately you need to make sure it’s a big enough gauge to handle the expected loads, but most rvs use 8ga or 6ga
Thanks its cool
I am looking to do an electrical install on an enclosed trailer. My plan is 12v led lights and then 3 110 outlets. I only want to run a regular extension cord to the shore power and just have one battery for lighting only. How would I go about that?
Hi, the best way to accomplish that would be to use a power distribution panel like the Wfco 8735 ad, that handles both 12v and 120v power distribution. Use a 15 amp shore power inlet to supply the 120v side and the battery hookups to distribute 12v power to the lights. That unit includes a converter (battery charger) to charge the battery when plugged in.
I have watched all your video's and really appreciate you sharing your knowledge. I was having a hard time windering if there was a transfer switch for an inverter install if you had shore and generator in a transfer switch already. Basically a 3 way transfer switch. Would you go inverter, or solar generator for boondocking. I am leaning towards the Opus Mega 2 since it has a 30amp plug and I can just plug it into the toyhauler. It also has the ability to be mobile and I can recharge with portable solar.
I think either can work well depending on what you want. For me the best case is to have it all built in to the rv. Solar, inverter, batteries etc so it all just functions as if you were plugged in to the grid.
Amazing video! Thank you for your detailed explanation. Really helps in visualizing everything.
Even for me as an European, with some differences in voltages en distribution en connections. Thank you :)
What gauge wire is coming off of the 12v fuses to go to a thermostat?
Most of the time you will find the same 14ga wire that is used for lights, water pump etc. There is very little current to feed a thermostat though, so down to 18 or 20 gauge would work fine as well.
What guage wire do you use for 120v 30 amp service?
10 gauge is standard
What size is the wire from the battery bank to the panel?
It depends on the application, but 6 ga. or 8 ga. is very common.
Is the 120v circuit grounding grounded to the chassis or no
Yes, typically the 120v system will have a bare solid copper wire running from the power distribution box to the frame.
Are those batteries grounded to the chassis or no
Yes, they will typically have a wire running to a grounding lug on the frame
i need a parts list please
Sure, tell me more about your system and I’ll see what I can do!
@ I’m putting power into a commercial trailer and the the air compressor uses 10 Amps
Now why wouldnt you just use a 120 hookup instead of using a.c & d.c ?
You could do it that way depending on what you want from your system. This scenario is an example of a standard RV electrical system, which uses ac/dc. This setup keeps all the existing infrastructure, keeping it fairly simple and allowing it to work as designed.
I blew up a 12v combo 120 Tv:(( Both power plugs were plugged in, and POW:(((Cooked the tv circuit board…Would be nice to separate each system in Rv, or the Tv .Im old and can’t figure what happened…I made it more complicated by connecting a lithium charger with Rv charger leads to 50ah battery. And then having to remember to kill main power sw on Rv frame outside each time Generator is on. Or I will have 24 volts to 12v items.Believe it or not, gas detector module by stove chirps for a second and a blue light flashes once to remind me to hit main switch, and not forget. Furnace motor goes on high(24v ) for a second simultaneously with detector. So separate systems though costly are in order.:))))lol
i thinkis its dumb to have the lights running off 12 volt. and dont forget you can have all the power you want but if you have a small drop cord feeding your rv you are power limited lol
Weren't the Lights representative of of appliances and the "small drop cord" for demonstration?
Most RV lights are 12v LEDs and draw close to nothing so why not use them on 12v circuit. Besides when your not on "shore power" what will you do for light?😅
@@reddbeard2030 good for you pal good for you
Need to rethink.12v lights don’t require inverter to operate, thus saving energy. When Off grid there no place to plug in an extension cord
@@davidpayne6541 good for you pal, good for you
Thank you very much!! Excellent explanation 👍👍