Heaven sent! I wish I watched this before I wasted the weekend watching do-it-yourselfers and still not getting it. This was professional and fully comprehensive. Thank you
I watched this two years ago and knew this was solid information. Most of it however; went over my head. Here I am two years later, and through my own trials and tribulations can fully attest, this is good solid info.
I simply added another alternator! One for charging the house (camper) battery and another alternator for charging the truck battery. It has been working on my camper with the usual repairs and battery replacements. The two systems are completely independent from the other. I have lived in it for 38 years. I am also independent.
Hi Bud, thanks for sharing your story. Great setup! Yep, two completely independent systems gets you great reliability and efficiency. Well done! All the best, Jesse.
bud irving - Where did you connect the 2nd alternator? I'm trying to understand some of this, I'm a 63 yr old gramma here, so please be patient, as I don't know what the alternator in connected to.. : ) I'm considering using an inverter in my little pickup on a cross country road trip. It says to use it with a deep cycle battery, so I had to look up "how to charge deep cycle battery" and it brought me here haha. Anyway, is this something a car mechanic would know how to do? Thanks.
@@annwithaplan9766 hopefully you had an answer. A simple 400w inverter that you plug into a cigarette lighter is great for most needs. You cannot cook with a hot plate of course
Nice going, well explained. One more option for campers and boats. At the second option ( smart switch) with a addon PV panel ( solar ) you may work out that the engine generator dose the bulk 14.4 what will result in 13.8 volt steady charge , the PV may work the float for the deadcycle battery. Obviously the PV is directly attached to the house deep cycle
I've been looking for a very simple yet informative explanation like this for my whole entire DIY life. Thank you very very much, you just saved me from wasting time and money trying to find a solution for my current DIY project
Such a great message to receive! I am glad to hear the video was helpful for you. A great name you have by the way. South-Eastern Africa? Malawi/Zambia? All the best, Jesse.
I have my start battery/alternator connected to my house battery through an old solar charger, which is enabled with a relay from the car key, this was the most reliable/cheaper solution I found. great tutorial well done
Thorough, excellent and clear and to the point! Answered my questions to set up my boat systems with a new mechman high output alternator and clarified the options beautifully. You give us the information to make our own choices given our personal resources and goals, thanks so much.
In event of a dead starter battery, I like having a jump box in my glove compartment. It works for other cars I encounter who have killed their starter battery at a campground and those campers are so grateful. I haven’t ended up with a dead starter battery since I (1.) attach a plug in battery charger to my starter battery while I am packing the car to be sure it is fully topped off before we start the trip (especially because during packing the doors and hatch are being left open a lot) and (2.) I put a carabiner into the rear hatch latch while we have it open at the campsite to fool the car’s computer into thinking the hatch is closed and latched. Even with the interior lights switched off, if the computer stays awake over a day or two it drains the battery (as we have proven!)
System one was what I first went with with two AGM deep cycle. They only lasted less than a year. Went with option number 2 a year ago and I’m very pleased to date🤗😎🇺🇸
I went with 4th option on my ford truck. 2nd alternator with program regulator to set battery type. this was not simple and had to change belt and add pully . make a mounting bracket . great job explaining the options.
Hello Robert, thank you for sharing. That is a very nice option as well. A bit of work indeed, but I am sure you are very content with it. Enjoy! Jesse.
Thank you!!! Good videos, I have seen a few of your videos and they are far better than most not only because of the information but the way you share it! As far as I'm concerned an instructional video is NOT a music video, so I appreciate the fact that no music is included, and we can clearly hear what you're saying, just like in a classroom, thanks! :) If teaching was more effective with music, classrooms would blare loud music while the teacher is speaking... ;) Keep up with the great instructional videos, the information is what's important! :)
Thank you for your compliment Michel, I really appreciate it. I had to smile when I read what you said about music & instructional videos, I totally agree!
Very helpful technical info, earlier, I couldn't understand completely about difference between Car and home battery even after watching many other videos. Thanks helped me a lot.
Thanks for the info! The visuals help a lot! Being that I'm using my van for camping and not living in it, I believe I'm just going to use a Victron 9 amp DC to DC converter for my single AGM battery I bought at Walmart, and 100 watts of solar. I had looked at a solenoid to charge with, but I'm glad I decided not to go that route. I don't think I need a huge amount of power. That can always be upgraded later. It's in a 1998 E-150 van, and all running inside the cab to behind the driver's seat.
Hi Ben, thanks for your message. I am glad to hear you liked the format of the video! Thanks for sharing your experience with the setup for your van, I am sure this can be valuable feedback for other campers as well. All the best, Jesse.
Thanks for a systemic and clear explanation! In my RV, I have chosen the simplest (KISS :)) parallel method with a simple dedicated high-amp manual switch. The parallel method seemed best for me because I have a solar charging system for my house battery as a main system and the alternator is only used when there is not possible to use solar. Stay safe everybody! Linas
Thanks for raising my antenna's, discovering in conjunction w/solar, this configuration is most definitely feasible when weather doesn't permit for solar keep up! THANKS to both of you guys!!!
@@SolarSolution can we direct the plus wire of alternator by using a switch to charge each battery at a time...i mean first engine battery then house battery...one at a time
Its a beutiful explanation...i have applied a change over manual switch that directs the plus wire from the alternator that allows one battery to be charged at a time. Hope the 100 amp house battery is not too much a load on the alternator that is designed to charge 40 amp engin battery
It is good to hear you enjoyed the content. Just a tip: Be mindful of the potential damage to alternator electronics during a momentary 'no load' situation as you would change from one battery bank to the next. All the best, Jesse.
Being somewhat simple-minded I did a fourth alternative and buy a dual purpose starter battery and connect the dual-purpose terminals to a small inverter and then use a charger to charge the house battery
Haha that works as well! Not simple-minded at all, I'd rather call that practical. I created this video with the assumption though that only the alternator would be used as a power source, but is sounds like you have external power available, is that correct? Thanks for sharing! Jesse
@SolarSolution no just my Toyota Sienna minivan stock alternator dual purpose stater battery to small 150 watt inverter and from there to a charger and 2 lithium fe/po batteries also 100 watt solar panel on the roof. I travel a lot so the alternator is working and maybe once a week I check into an electrified campground
Excellent! That sounds like a great setup. Well done for also adding the 100 Watt solar panel, I bet that helps you a lot. Does the inverter have a configurable Low Voltage Disconnect [LVD] option? If so you, setting this to a relatively high value would ensure that your inverter turns off soon after you turn the engine off. There are also smart 12V relays available designed specifically for this purpose. Thanks for sharing and enjoy your travels! Jesse
Absolute genius. I never quite understood why my leisure battery had such a problem with fully charging, despite being replaced and its because mine is the layout you explained where the starter battery is always getting the priority of charge. I will defo be changing this when I get my lithium replacements in change for Lead acids. Its good as you said for if your starter has a problem and you can take the current from the leisure to get your engine battery going, but I dont need that as a priority, as im on a small lake with a good powered outboard to get me back to safety.
Great Video Jesse, Your just full of surprises ! thank you for making this video ! Never thought of option # 3 , what a great idea and so easy. I 'm planning on building a pontoon style house boat with A/C , bar style refrigerator , microwave , etc for small equipped kitchen . Solar being the main generator for the house batteries . So for after sundown travel or just charging , the old VW turbo diesel drive engine can turn a School Bus / Truck alternator as these produce high amps even at idle and can all day long if needed . Some had manual adjustable voltage regulator output settings . I was going to use a battery isolator for the 2 battery systems ,but option 3 allows for higher voltage output for the Deep Cycle Batteries and DC to DC for the starting battery .
Hi Wayne! Thanks for your feedback, it's nice to hear you enjoyed the video. And what an exciting project your are planning, wow. Great idea to use the heavy duty schoolbus/truck alternator with adjustable voltage output, simple & very effective. I would love to hear / see how the project turns out!
@@apocalypseapocalypse3550 1st (better) option bigger alternator 2nd intelligent charge controllers / battery isolators in sequence; each set only triggers after the previous completes its charge instructions, i.e. 1st starter battery > then house batteries. Charging them as separate banks would keep the alternator draw separate, minimizing its workload. Really only good if your engine is running a lot.
Excellent video. I am finding my way through a lithium battery install. 750 amp lithium house bank, 100 amp alternator, two dc-dc Orion 30 amps each between starter and house. Thank you for posting this!
Pretty good video. The deep cycle batteries clearly benefit from proper charging to last. Starting batteries on the other hand are very tolerant of non ideal charging and can still last long, but only as a starting battery.
Great explanation. It has motivated me to fix my RV house battery charging system. The current system is 2 x lead acid batteries of about 140 AH capacity. They are used to power electronics, fridge and a CPAP machine when shore power or the Onan generator is not connected. Charging is by a 12v charger fed by shore power or the Onan generator. There is also a relay activated connection to the RV alternator but I have disconnected this for obvious reasons. I have also installed a solar panel on the roof. The solar panel includes a charge controller that I have connected directly to the battery. The panel supplies up to 2A when the sun shines. I want to reconnect the alternator to provide more charge when the RV engine is running but I am concerned that having 3 sources of charging current might cause problems. Is there such a thing as a multi port dc/dc converter that will manage the 3 inputs to give optimal charging for my batteries.
Iam going to go with the option 4 guy with the Toyota minivan as i myself live in my dodge caravan and dont want to hurt or put anymore wear on the old girl .but great video please keep em coming.thank you
Absolutely wonderful video........excellent clarity on the points, one of THE BEST......THANK YOU for your time and efforts in sharing your knowledge. I have been watching hundreds of videos to get a grasp on this subject to properly understand the basic principles, finally found the right one.
Excellent video. I’m keen to learn how I can add a jump start function to my system. I have starter battery > dc with inbuilt regulator and solar input > lithium house battery > inverter and 12v outlets. I was wondering if I could add a smart isolator solenoid ( like you would use use in option 1) that has an override jump start option that I could wire to a push button switch in the vehicle instrument panel. Eg starter > smart isolator > dc > house etc. Or would I have to run a seperate circuit with some kind of link switch that bypasses the dc charger to link and jump start?
Thank you... very helpful. Considering option (3) from Your video noted below, I was wondering if you could recommend an External Regulator, and a DC /DC charge controller combination? Perhaps something off of Amazon Thanks again. [Your video: Deep cycle battery charging with your alternator: The 3 best options]
I have been waiting for this video, you full cleared up the last bit confusion I had on using a Solenoid. I am currently setup with option number 2, not exactly sure what the benefit of option 3 is over 2, I am guessing since your going straight to the house battery you can work at the max amperage of the Alternator to speed charging on the house battery, while using the dc-dc to control the charge on the Starter. I upgraded my alternator to 200 amp alternator and put a 40 amp DC-DC so I get fairly fast charging on the house battery with out going over the maximum charge current rating on my AGM, which would be my one concern with going with option 3. I also did some testing before changing out the stock alternator and found my van used 45-50 amps just to run and also found out that the stock 130 amp alternator only put out 60 amps at idle so when I originally installed the DC-DC, I was pulling more amps than could be supported by my alternator causing my start battery to discharge. Thanks for covering this subject for me I will be sharing this video on my feeds. Jason
I had this cool solar charge/Shore power system design made and super happy with it only to realize that wall power is maximum 16 amps where I live😂 so I'm now looking into this don't feel like waiting for days in case of bad weather for my batteries to be charged.
This is what i was looking for. You enlightened me sir. I consider to use the third option for my battery bank. So what would be your advise for the suitable external voltage regulator for charging of a 12.8V 320ah Lifepo4 Battery? Wich one to choose? There are so many on the market. What fuse to use and what power?
Love ur vids as always, clear and concise. My only criticism here, is (& you weren’t advising to use them, cheers)that any inverter u can plug into a lighter socket is probably not worth wasting ur money on, they really are cheap junk that if u try and charge any half decent battery, they will just blow up in seconds.
Thanks for a great video Jesse! I decided to follow your advice and go with the 3rd option. So I will have the following setup: Alternator: 100A House battery: 200Ah LiFePo4 Starter battery: LeadAcid 75Ah DC-DC Charger: Victron 30A External regulator: MC-614 with alternator temperature sensor Solar panels: 240W with Victron SmartSolar MPPT 100/20 Now to my question: I really like the part about running the engine on idle to charge the house battery, eg while at anchor, but what happens when motoring at sea and the House battery becomes fully loaded? Balmar underlines that the regulator must be shut down before the battery is disconnected by the BMS, since running an alternator without a battery will damage the alternator, especially if disconnected during high current charging, causing a load dump. Isn't shutting the regulator down going to damage the alternator since it has nowhere to feed the current? My initial thought was to have the house battery top up the starter battery continuously, as a way to deal with the overflow current. I guess the secret is in how the regulator and the DC-DC charger is programmed? I'd appreciate very much if you could share your thought on this. Thanks, Jan
Hello Jan! Thanks for sharing your project plans, it sounds you are working towards a great setup. As for your question, I would like to draw your attention to the pinned comment at the top of this section. All the best, Jesse.
Hi Jan, here is a copy of the pinned comment: Pinned by Solar Solution Solar Solution 2 weeks ago Welcome to Solar Solution, the channel on Off Grid Energy Systems! My name is Jesse, I am a Renewable Energy Engineer and I share my knowledge freely so that we can all benefit and grow together. www.solarsolution.co You are welcome to share your perspectives and experiences though the channel's comment section or forum. Please note that I do not provide personal advice in the TH-cam comment section. If you wish to address the TH-cam community with their vast communal knowledge, please address your comment with 'General Inquiry'. For personal advice you can contact me through the main website. Enjoy the channel, and good luck with your energy project! All the best, Jesse.
Good job! I was going to comment on that first video with the Li install but didnt. I am in the same situation...do I also install the dc to dc charger or not? I will probably go that route. Keep doing vids...its appreciated.
Thanks for this KISS Video . Please could you make another video adding solar panels ( with charge controllers) to this mixture ? No information is available online if a house battery can be charged with both alternator and solar panel simultaneously . Many thanks.
You are welcome Muralidhara, and thank you for your feedback. You have an excellent question, I will provide you the answer through a new video. Once it is online I will notify you. All the best, Jesse.
Haha guilty as charged! I have been putting a lot of work in new content, I am sure you will enjoy what is to come: Within 2 weeks is my promise to you. Thanks for your message! Jesse.
Great information. I have one question. If I am charging 2 6 volt batteries ran in a series how would I connect the charger to each battery. Thanks for your help.
Option 4: install a 24v alternator. Bypass the internal regulator. Connect the 3 phases in series with one winding reversed. This will give you about 100v single phase. Rectify through Schottky diodes and put through a MPPT controller. You now have more power than a heavy duty alternator
I wanted to do this with many ac parralell connecting solar panel inverters advancements..therefor direct powering of some powertools from alternator, cannabalization redundancy, parasite loss management, segragating solar panels to appliances.. But the marketplace is not developed especially at 110v
If aftermarket contoller solved batteryless bootstrap start up of field coil, and could switch between nominal 12vdc charge controls and 110 approx crude ac output..perhaps exists in high price marine market and historical Frankenstein diy.
I was searching for a explanation what I'd need. Nowehere I found it so well explained without all the b*llshit. Down to earth dude, so very happy with your video. Thnx Jesse keep it up!
@@SolarSolution no problem! Now the only thing I'm trying to find out is whether I need a dc-dc charger which is insulated or one which is non insulated. Goes in our van which already has solar power but just not enough since it's now winter in Greece and the sun is not high enough on average. Do you happen to have a video or some explanation about what to choose somewhere? Kinda hard to find a solid answer..
Just came across this video and have a few questions regarding setup 3, and coming from a boat perspective: You demonstrated Alt -> Ext. Regulator -> House -> DC/DC Charger -> Start. Q1: Why wouldn't you set it up as Alt -> Ext. Regulator -> Start (Lead Acid) -> DC/DC Charger -> House (AGM Deep Cycle)? I would think to prioritize charging the start battery first, followed by house battery/ies. Charging the start battery first would ensure that the start battery is always at 100% before house batteries are charged. That way if the house batteries drain flat, you're still able to start the engine to charge the house again. With your demonstrated setup, should the start battery go flat for whatever reason, you would have to either jump start it or switch to parallel (in 12v/12v) to start, or use jumper leads to take 12v power from an individual 12v battery in a 24v or 36v bank. I would typically setup Alt -> Start -> VSR (voltage sensitive relay) -> AGM Deep Cycle. Q2: What would be the pros and cons of this setup? Q3: Would you do it any different if it was a stator?
3rd Option : Alternator ( -to- ) External Regulator ( to ) House Battery (to ) Dc/Dc Converter (to) Starter Battery Question : if the DC/DC converter isolates the Current to flow (1 ) way ....Then how does the starter battery get current back to the engine to start it ? Thank You For Your Help In Understanding ...Im new to this idea but love the benifits
Hello Mark, thank you for your question. A system can be designed and wired in a such a way, that the charging source [e.g. a DC charge controller] can be different from the load [e.g. a starter motor]. Good luck and enjoy, Jesse.
@@SolarSolution I'm going to put a battery lithium battery bank in my Toyota Prius...I'm thinking of using option 3 as my model ..,.was wondering if i could make the bank come directly off the source charge for the prius Car batteries ...there are a positive and negative cable going from the engine ( generator ) to the lithium batteries then to the starter batteries ...sooooooo...i was thinking you could either use diagram 3 from to the starter battery ....or.... come directly from the positive cable and negative cable from the engine to a dc converter to the power bank i believe diagram 2 ...or Both ? Sorry to ask such a question ..Thank You In Advance
Great video! Super helpful. I would love to learn more about option 3, using an external voltage regulator from the alternator to a LiPO4 house bank with a dc to dc charger for the starter battery. How do we maximize charging of batteries without damaging the alternator while ensuring the starter battery is always charged? With the standard 80 amp factory-installed alternator be up to the task of quickly charging a LiPO4 house bank?
Hi John! It's good to hear you found the video useful. As for your questions, I would like to draw your attention to the pinned comment at the top. All the best, Jesse.
ive done a lot of homework with solar but what you did with this and other videos is just that little bit that helpes me understand exactly how to and what. thank you very much
Because of good video,I would ask you this ...dear sir i am an amateur and I bought a second hand solar battery this battery is 220 Ah please I want to know how to measure it if it is good or bad thanks for your reply
Brilliant. After many videos which have been helpful and learned a lot, this ties them altogether and makes sense. The best I've heard. .Questions... should an alternator be reset to 14 8 v if possible for the house batteries and the the controllers to the starting batteries take it down to 14.4.?,
Thanx Jesse great content n I'm coming to you cause your the guru of generators etc.I have a 2020 jeep wrangler jl 2.0turbo with Etorque. Doesn't have a alternator,ork? In a powertrain fitted with eTorque, a belt-driven motor-generator unit replaces the conventional alternator on the engine. This motor-generator unit performs several functions in addition to the standard operation of the alternator, which is to provide electricity to keep the vehicle's battery charged. But in an eTorque-equipped vehicle, the electrical system is significantly different than in a conventional vehicle. With the eTorque system, the motor-generator supplies electricity to a dedicated battery pack used to gain several advantages. The motor-generator unit delivers a 48-volt current to a 430 watt-hour lithium-ion nickel manganese cobalt-graphite battery whenever the engine is running. The battery pack array includes a 3-kilowatt direct current-to-direct current (DC-to-DC) converter that changes 48-volt current to 12 volts. This enables it to power the vehicle's accessories, which run on a typical automotive 12-volt current. Also, it allows it to charge the vehicle's conventional 12-volt lead-acid battery. The motor-generator also creates electricity during deceleration and braking through brake regeneration. This process captures energy that otherwise would dissipate as waste heat. That energy flows to the 48-volt battery pack for storage and keeps the battery pack at a proper charge level.so this is capable of handling a winch extra lights etc.my question is,I have a large stereo system that's going to be installed that will total at least 975amps, I changed the stock 12volt battery to a 750cca agm battery and added a limitless12k lithium battery capable of handling 10000watts-12000watts at 14volts.all wiring will be at 2/0 awg ofc wire.also a 500amp batttery isolator.I'm planning on installing a 100watt solar panel that they make for the hood of my jeep as well as a redarc bcdc dual battery charging system that can charge from solar panels.will the generator be able to handle that much amperage?I spoke to other guys with same vehicle that's pushing a lot more than that and have no issues.just want to be sure you it will be ok.
Excellent video. However, my number 1 priority is to make sure the starter battery is ALWAYS charged. At any time must we avoid that the vehicle won’t start because of issue with the charging system. I’d rather have the house battery being unavailable rather than the starter battery. In your favorite solution nr 3 this seems a concern. How about the other solutions? Care to comment? Thanks again!
Thanks for your message and for sharing your perspective. I can definitely see where you are coming from, and my guess is that many system operators would prioritize the starter battery availability over the house battery bank. This is a great topic for a discussion. too much to discuss right here. One consideration I could throw in the mix is that many system operators have the availability to start their main engine from either the starter OR the house battery bank. Enjoy the channel! Jesse.
Very informative video, thank you! I’m using option 1 to connect a flooded starter battery with a AGM leisure battery and I’m now concerned about the lifespan of the components! Would it make a difference if the leisure battery is also regularly charged with an external charger with specific currents for AGM? Thanks!
If you have a solar panel and charger it will charge the AGM at the correct voltage. So a lot of what is said here assumes everything is to be charged via the alternator. But in reality most RV's etc. use a AGM battery and a solar charge controller which will have detected the AGM upon installation and will have it's charge curve set accordingly. So I'm not convinced you need a DC-to-DC charger if you have solar.. I would also be more inclined to charge the starter batt first and with a Smart switch (called a VSR), which will flick over to the House battery when the starter is full. I would not have a direct link to the starter from the house, because if the House gets a short cell, it will drag the Starter down with it. The priority is to start the vehicle. Who cares about the rest.
So Jesse, could you please give an example of of single stage charge? For example, charging the house battery via a traditional 220V mains charger (old school type).
That is great feedback to receive! I am glad the video helped you in your decision-making process. Good luck with your project and all the best, Jesse.
4th option: Have your alternator charge your starter battery, then add a battery isolator relay that kicks in @ 13.3 volts (relay turns off when starter battery gets to 12.8v). Normally, people use this to connect to house batteries, Don't. Instead, use this isolator to connect and power up a pure sine wave power inverter. This way, when alternator is charging starter battery it is providing power to inverter. Now run AC extension cord from inverter to a smart battery charger which will charge your house batteries. This is especially good if house batteries are a distance away from starter batteries.
Hello Robert, thanks for your message. Your question makes a lot of sense, though the final selection of components depends on your specific system details and performance requirements. Good luck with your campervan-project! Jesse.
Another option is run an inverter off of the vehicle, and then use this to power a battery charger designed to charge the house batteries. The advantage is when you have shore power, the same charger can be used to charge the house batteries. A 1,000 watt continuous pure sine wave inverter should be able to run a 60 amp charger. Your three options do not provide for charging the house batteries from a campground outlet. You would still need a battery charger that runs off of utility main power. So the only real addition to make that work while driving would be an inverter. Many people will already have the inverter. They just need to install a battery selector switch and run heavy wires from the vehicle battery. When they park, they can switch the inverter to house batteries and unplug the charger.
he did mention using a cigarette lighter charger in a pinch, but doesn't recommend it. Im guessing that this might be less effective because it limits your output & strains your electrical system as this kind of draw on an accessory outlet will probably cause excess heat & possibly battery / alternator wear. But I could be wrong. I actually thought the same thing. Why not just charge a deep cycle with a low watt charger plugged into a cigarette lighter inverter? Just unplug it when its not running???
I am going to conduct an experiment. On a day with decent weather & I have 2 batteries that are equally discharged, I will charge one battery on the ride to & from work during the day with my inverter, while another is being charged with a 100w solar panel, then compare their charge levels to see how well a 100w panel charges in comparison to an inverter (when charging 2 equally discharged batteries). I will also record drive/charge time & start/end charge levels to compare. It is good to know another way to charge a battery on days with limited sunshine.
Thanks for the great explanation Jesse. Would you be willing to explain the best way to connect shore, solar and alternator power to charge a house battery?
Hi Reece, it is good to hear from you. Thanks for your question. I would be happy to explain the best setup, though this is really specific to the situation. For personal advice you can contact me through www.solarsolution.co/contact
Hello Hendrik, thanks for you message. Your feedback is one of the nicest compliments to receive. I am glad the video was useful for you! All the best, Jesse.
Great video Jesse, I do a lot of installing of these systems but have never really considered your option 3 although I have heard mention of it.... I.will investigate the availability and economics of the external VR, but convincing paying customers of the extra expense is another task...lol..
Wooo excellent video .i have a question i instol a dual Battery Isolator Kit on my van but when it's tha veiculo run tha dual Isolator Kit turn on and off for 6 or 7 time before to stay on do you know what's the problem??? Please let me know what happen 🙏 thanks
Helpful video sir. Id go with option 2 just to be on the safe side. What do you recommend to use for a dc-dc charge controller with 100Ah 12V deep cycle batteries?
Thank you for your message, I am glad to hear you enjoyed the video. Feel free to contact me through the main website for personal support: www.solarsolution.co. Good luck! Jesse
Hey Jesse, love the video. I have really learned a lot from your channel. I have decided to set my van up using your second option in this video. My only question is, is there a rule of thumb in regards to the amperage output of your alternator and the amperage of your DCDC charger? In This video you say that the dcdc charger amperage should be substantially lower than your alternator amperage. What do you mean by "substantially"? I have a 60amp dcdc charger. Do I need to buy a alternator that can do 200amp, 300amp or 400amp? What are we talking here? Thank you so much for your time!
For anyone who is interested, I've decided to go with a 390 amp JS Alternator. They claim that the 390 amp alternator produces around 220 amps at idle speeds. They do require a 1" shorter serpentine belt as well as their thicker cable wiring kit. I spent around $600 for this upgrade. From what I gathered, 220 amps at idle should be plenty to handle the load of charging the house batteries with my 60a dcdc charger, plus the loads on my vans stock electrical system. Hope this helps 🥴
Hello Graham, thank you for your question. An additional alternator is indeed an option as well, one which several others have successfully implemented. All the best, Jesse.
That explains why the 7 point connector and wiring harness I recently installed does not provide for charging the trailer battery bank from the alternator. That is just fine for me as I will use an alternative charging source to preserve alternator life.
Hello, wonderful video's. Can you tell me if you are driving and the solar is putting charge as well as the alternator, will this help stop the alternator over heating while charging lithium batteries?
Hi thanks for your video. I wondered what your opinion was on the Victron Argofet, as this setup isn't covered in your video (i dont think anyhow). Many Thanks
Excellent video with great explanations combined with good visuals. Thank you for your effort. I would appreciate if you could help me understand one thing that is confusing me. Under option #2 one of the cons is that the dc-to-dc charger does not allow a high charge rate, or has limited charging, yet under option #3, which also leverages a dc-to-dc charger, you said it allows fast charging of both the house battery bank and the starter battery as it makes optimal use of the alternator. My confusion is that the dc-to-dc charger has limited charging due to current limitations irrespective of whether the house battery bank is being charged by the starter battery, or the starter battery is being charged by the house battery. One theory I have is that since the starter battery should not need as much charging as the house battery bank, the limited charging of the current limitations of a dc-to-dc charger (20A/40A/60A depending on the model) is not an issue; but my factory alternator is 150A, and while the vehicle should not need that much current, a dc-to-dc charger is a far cry from 150A. Am I overlooking something?
i have a fourth version.. go with a power inverter use a extension cord connect that to a Deep cycle battery charger to charge your house bank...so simple..
Thanks for all of the info? It sounds like the 3rd option is what I would do. However, I have heard of people having a second alternator. If/when that is the case would each alternator simply charge their own system (starter battery or deep cycle/home batteries)? If/when that is the case, would I need these other components? Or perhaps just one on the house cycle to make sure it gets the correct voltage and flow?
Your video was well produced, Jesse. One point that might confuse consumers is that many batteries sold as deep cycle batteries are not full-fledged deep cycle batteries, i.e., they are more of an intermediate product with only moderately thicker plates than a starting battery. I purchased one such "deep cycle" AGM battery, and I believe the recommended bulk and float charging ranges were 14.4-14.6V and 13.5-13.8V, respectively. On a different note, I noticed some sources recommend limiting charging current to 20 or 30 percent of the nominal battery capacity for AGM batteries. Is charging with excessive current worse than failing to fully charge a battery, e.g., when a vehicle (without photovoltaics) is running for only a short period of time between stops?
Thank you for your contribution and your question North Jersey. I agree with you on the wide variety of batteries out there on the market. The terminology used in the consumer market suggest a simple division between 'start' or 'deep cycle' batteries, though I agree with you on the possibility of confusion when certain 'deep cycle' batteries actually have life time expectancies which are closer to 'start' batteries than to proper 'deep cycle' batteries. This is often the case with commonly use AGM batteries. I think this is cause for a more in-depth video on the topic: I will 'sit on it' for a bit and share the video with you once it is ready. As for your question: High battery currents cause different battery aging principles compared to undercharging. On average, batteries more often tend to fail prematurely due to undercharging, rather than high battery currents. This being said, you can damage batteries with either approach: Your specific battery usage will determine the predominant battery aging principle at play. Good luck with your project! Jesse
For option #3, can you give an example of the voltage regulator you would use? I've never heard of an external voltage regulator that has a charging algorithm. Thank you.
Hey Rob! Sure: Balmar has external regulators on their website. I find their products quite expensive, though their quality is [in my opinion] relatively good. FYI I am not affiliated with them in any way. Good luck! Jesse
I know it's not recommended, but I've had success running a big dual purpose deep cycle battery in my converted van as the primary starter and house battery for my fans and fridge. I accept that the life of the battery will be around 2 years. The battery only costs me $100 new at home depot and it' on roughly month 14. I have a 320 watt solar panel and a fancy charge controller so the battery is constantly being charged and used and is usually reads between 12.2 and 13v. I really put this battery through it's paces so I have to water it every month or so. I forgot to water it for a few months and it required 3/4 gallons of distilled water to top off this morning. No problem starting and currently reading 12.9v (due to solar charge). How much damaged do you think I did? Video on my channel.
Thanks for your message. $100 per 24 months, that sounds pretty cost efficient! The problem with batteries running 'dry' really starts kicking in when part of the active material in the battery is no longer submersed in the electrolyte [='dry']. Did you check whether the lead was exposed before you added the water?
Thankyou. I am battery n solar power challenged. Good to check yr vid out. I did not understand much of the vid but was still good info. A start for me. :)
Hello Johnny, thanks for your message. It's good to hear you enjoyed the explanation. As for your question, I would like to draw your attention to the pinned comment at the top of this section. All the best, Jesse.
Hey Jesse it is a long explanation but very useful for people like me as I'm making that Solar panel battery bank (24 volts) but during the night I haven't nothing to feed my bank, so I am implementing that the use of an alternator using an old motorcicle to spin the rear weel with a belt connected to the alternator pulley, the rim is 24" Vs. 4 inch in the alternator to go over than 1200 rpm's. Do you think my project will work. Do you know that what kind of breaker I need to protec the battery bank from voltage/amps? from alternator? Congratulations for your teaching class this is the first time I seen it, your advice will be highly appreciated Greetings from Mexico
Hello Jorge, it is good to hear from you. What a great project you are working on! I am sure you are excited to see it in operation. As I was reading through you questions, I thought of several videos which will be useful for you. I have pasted them below with their topic descriptions. Enjoy! Jesse DC Wire Sizes th-cam.com/video/70JyQzeex7s/w-d-xo.html Lifetime of Lead Acid batteries th-cam.com/video/clVrcG8jV7Y/w-d-xo.html Battery charging & voltages: th-cam.com/video/87rxYyTZgbE/w-d-xo.html
![[MV] A leap of faith...ความเชื่อใจครั้งสุดท้าย (From "Petrichor the series")](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U1piZH2CNXA/mqdefault.jpg)
Heaven sent! I wish I watched this before I wasted the weekend watching do-it-yourselfers and still not getting it. This was professional and fully comprehensive. Thank you
The number of people who understand the rules, but cannot articulate the reasons is huge. This is one of the best videos I’ve seen on the topic.
I am glad to hear you enjoyed the video B Rad, and thanks for the compliment, I appreciate it. All the best, Jesse.
Wow after 10 years dealing with my Boat batteries I finally found someone that puts everything into a simple and easy-to-understand video. Thank you.
You are welcome Vito, I am glad to hear you appreciated the video. Sorry I didn't upload it ten years ago :)
This guy knows his stuff. The information was crystal clear and easy to follow.
That is nice to hear, thank you for your message!
Excellent video! This guy knows what he is talking about. And no annoying background music, marketing or horseplay! Great Job!
I watched this two years ago and knew this was solid information. Most of it however; went over my head. Here I am two years later, and through my own trials and tribulations can fully attest, this is good solid info.
Wow, great feedback! Thanks for letting me know.
I really want to thank you young man. You are a very smart person with a lot of common sense. This was very simple to understand and grasp.
Thank you for your heartwarming compliment Christopher, I am glad to hear you found the video useful.
All the best, Jesse.
I worked that out 20 years ago. External regulator is the only way to go. Huge battery life for both batteries.
Hi Ian, thanks for your feedback. I am glad to hear it worked out well for you. All the best, Jesse.
I simply added another alternator! One for charging the house (camper) battery and another alternator for charging the truck battery. It has been working on my camper with the usual repairs and battery replacements. The two systems are completely independent from the other. I have lived in it for 38 years. I am also independent.
Hi Bud, thanks for sharing your story. Great setup! Yep, two completely independent systems gets you great reliability and efficiency. Well done!
All the best, Jesse.
bud irving - Where did you connect the 2nd alternator? I'm trying to understand some of this, I'm a 63 yr old gramma here, so please be patient, as I don't know what the alternator in connected to.. : ) I'm considering using an inverter in my little pickup on a cross country road trip. It says to use it with a deep cycle battery, so I had to look up "how to charge deep cycle battery" and it brought me here haha. Anyway, is this something a car mechanic would know how to do? Thanks.
@@annwithaplan9766 hopefully you had an answer. A simple 400w inverter that you plug into a cigarette lighter is great for most needs. You cannot cook with a hot plate of course
@@vanderumd11 could you reliability charge a deep cycle battery using this method, as long as the engine is running?
I have had the pleasure of watching two of your tutorials and the clarity with which you deliver them is remarkable. I'm lost for words....Thank you.
Great to hear!
You go into more details than others and it makes things easier to understand. Like the thin layering of the starter battery, for instance.
That is very useful feedback Eddy, thanks for your message!
Nice going, well explained.
One more option for campers and boats.
At the second option ( smart switch) with a addon PV panel ( solar ) you may work out that the engine generator dose the bulk 14.4 what will result in 13.8 volt steady charge , the PV may work the float for the deadcycle battery.
Obviously the PV is directly attached to the house deep cycle
Thanks for sharing!
I've been looking for a very simple yet informative explanation like this for my whole entire DIY life. Thank you very very much, you just saved me from wasting time and money trying to find a solution for my current DIY project
Such a great message to receive! I am glad to hear the video was helpful for you. A great name you have by the way. South-Eastern Africa? Malawi/Zambia? All the best, Jesse.
I have my start battery/alternator connected to my house battery through an old solar charger, which is enabled with a relay from the car key, this was the most reliable/cheaper solution I found.
great tutorial well done
Thorough, excellent and clear and to the point! Answered my questions to set up my boat systems with a new mechman high output alternator and clarified the options beautifully. You give us the information to make our own choices given our personal resources and goals, thanks so much.
Thank you for your message Doug, it is really great to hear how the video created this value for you. Good luck with your new setup!
In event of a dead starter battery, I like having a jump box in my glove compartment. It works for other cars I encounter who have killed their starter battery at a campground and those campers are so grateful. I haven’t ended up with a dead starter battery since I (1.) attach a plug in battery charger to my starter battery while I am packing the car to be sure it is fully topped off before we start the trip (especially because during packing the doors and hatch are being left open a lot) and (2.) I put a carabiner into the rear hatch latch while we have it open at the campsite to fool the car’s computer into thinking the hatch is closed and latched. Even with the interior lights switched off, if the computer stays awake over a day or two it drains the battery (as we have proven!)
Thanks for sharing! Such a good idea about the carabiner, well done :)
System one was what I first went with with two AGM deep cycle. They only lasted less than a year. Went with option number 2 a year ago and I’m very pleased to date🤗😎🇺🇸
That is great to hear Earle!
I went with 4th option on my ford truck. 2nd alternator with program regulator to set battery type. this was not simple and had to change belt and add pully . make a mounting bracket . great job explaining the options.
Hello Robert, thank you for sharing. That is a very nice option as well. A bit of work indeed, but I am sure you are very content with it. Enjoy! Jesse.
adding a 2nd alternator is a much better idea than overloading the regular alternator, and risk ending up with none.
I am just now buying a Ford...which program regulator did you select?
Amazing video with basic information without going to unnecessary deep into topic.
Glad you think so!
Thank you!!! Good videos, I have seen a few of your videos and they are far better than most not only because of the information but the way you share it! As far as I'm concerned an instructional video is NOT a music video, so I appreciate the fact that no music is included, and we can clearly hear what you're saying, just like in a classroom, thanks! :) If teaching was more effective with music, classrooms would blare loud music while the teacher is speaking... ;) Keep up with the great instructional videos, the information is what's important! :)
Thank you for your compliment Michel, I really appreciate it. I had to smile when I read what you said about music & instructional videos, I totally agree!
This is the best explanation of the third method that I've read or heard. Thank you
You're very welcome!
Very helpful technical info, earlier, I couldn't understand completely about difference between Car and home battery even after watching many other videos. Thanks helped me a lot.
Glad it was helpful Rohitha!
Thank you for this pragmatic and straight forward description!
You're welcome Thorben! Thanks for your message.
Thank you so much, you’re the first person who has explained this properly
Thanks Peter, that is a great compliment to receive. I am glad it was useful for you.
All the best, Jesse.
@@SolarSolution Hey Jesse,
Which external regulator do you recommend for your system #3?
Thanks for the info! The visuals help a lot!
Being that I'm using my van for camping and not living in it, I believe I'm just going to use a Victron 9 amp DC to DC converter for my single AGM battery I bought at Walmart, and 100 watts of solar. I had looked at a solenoid to charge with, but I'm glad I decided not to go that route. I don't think I need a huge amount of power. That can always be upgraded later. It's in a 1998 E-150 van, and all running inside the cab to behind the driver's seat.
Hi Ben, thanks for your message. I am glad to hear you liked the format of the video! Thanks for sharing your experience with the setup for your van, I am sure this can be valuable feedback for other campers as well. All the best, Jesse.
Thanks for a systemic and clear explanation! In my RV, I have chosen the simplest (KISS :)) parallel method with a simple dedicated high-amp manual switch. The parallel method seemed best for me because I have a solar charging system for my house battery as a main system and the alternator is only used when there is not possible to use solar. Stay safe everybody! Linas
Simple & effective, well done!
Thanks for raising my antenna's, discovering in conjunction w/solar, this configuration is most definitely feasible when weather doesn't permit for solar keep up! THANKS to both of you guys!!!
@@SolarSolution can we direct the plus wire of alternator by using a switch to charge each battery at a time...i mean first engine battery then house battery...one at a time
What a great guy, easy to listen to, great factual information.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Its a beutiful explanation...i have applied a change over manual switch that directs the plus wire from the alternator that allows one battery to be charged at a time.
Hope the 100 amp house battery is not too much a load on the alternator that is designed to charge 40 amp engin battery
It is good to hear you enjoyed the content. Just a tip: Be mindful of the potential damage to alternator electronics during a momentary 'no load' situation as you would change from one battery bank to the next. All the best, Jesse.
Being somewhat simple-minded I did a fourth alternative and buy a dual purpose starter battery and connect the dual-purpose terminals to a small inverter and then use a charger to charge the house battery
Haha that works as well! Not simple-minded at all, I'd rather call that practical. I created this video with the assumption though that only the alternator would be used as a power source, but is sounds like you have external power available, is that correct? Thanks for sharing! Jesse
@SolarSolution no just my Toyota Sienna minivan stock alternator dual purpose stater battery to small 150 watt inverter and from there to a charger and 2 lithium fe/po batteries also 100 watt solar panel on the roof. I travel a lot so the alternator is working and maybe once a week I check into an electrified campground
Excellent! That sounds like a great setup. Well done for also adding the 100 Watt solar panel, I bet that helps you a lot. Does the inverter have a configurable Low Voltage Disconnect [LVD] option? If so you, setting this to a relatively high value would ensure that your inverter turns off soon after you turn the engine off. There are also smart 12V relays available designed specifically for this purpose. Thanks for sharing and enjoy your travels! Jesse
Absolute genius. I never quite understood why my leisure battery had such a problem with fully charging, despite being replaced and its because mine is the layout you explained where the starter battery is always getting the priority of charge. I will defo be changing this when I get my lithium replacements in change for Lead acids.
Its good as you said for if your starter has a problem and you can take the current from the leisure to get your engine battery going, but I dont need that as a priority, as im on a small lake with a good powered outboard to get me back to safety.
Top explanation of the different charging needs of a starter FLA and a deep cycle FLA! Thank you!
Thanks for your message Beni, I'm glad you are enjoying the videos. Jesse.
thank you for this video .. really enlightening i was very confused about these systems and no one seems to explain it so simply..
I am glad to hear you are enjoying the channel Valkyrie, thank you for your message. All the best, Jesse.
Great Video Jesse,
Your just full of surprises ! thank you for making this video !
Never thought of option # 3 , what a great idea and so easy. I 'm planning on building a pontoon style house boat with A/C , bar style refrigerator , microwave , etc for small equipped kitchen . Solar being the main generator for the house batteries . So for after sundown travel or just charging , the old VW turbo diesel drive engine can turn a School Bus / Truck alternator as these produce high amps even at idle and can all day long if needed . Some had manual adjustable voltage regulator output settings . I was going to use a battery isolator for the 2 battery systems ,but option 3 allows for higher voltage output for the Deep Cycle Batteries and DC to DC for the starting battery .
Hi Wayne! Thanks for your feedback, it's nice to hear you enjoyed the video. And what an exciting project your are planning, wow. Great idea to use the heavy duty schoolbus/truck alternator with adjustable voltage output, simple & very effective. I would love to hear / see how the project turns out!
Hello. So considering the normal car alternator uses a 12v battery, how can you wire a bigger battery pack(48v) without roasting the alternator ?
@@apocalypseapocalypse3550 1st (better) option bigger alternator
2nd intelligent charge controllers / battery isolators in sequence; each set only triggers after the previous completes its charge instructions, i.e. 1st starter battery > then house batteries. Charging them as separate banks would keep the alternator draw separate, minimizing its workload. Really only good if your engine is running a lot.
Excellent video. I am finding my way through a lithium battery install. 750 amp lithium house bank, 100 amp alternator, two dc-dc Orion 30 amps each between starter and house. Thank you for posting this!
Thank you and you are welcome!
Excellent video. All the internet knowledge but collated in a single, and short, place. Thanks!
Thank you Tom, that is one of best compliments this video can receive. I am glad you enjoyed it! All the best, Jesse
Pretty good video. The deep cycle batteries clearly benefit from proper charging to last. Starting batteries on the other hand are very tolerant of non ideal charging and can still last long, but only as a starting battery.
Thank you for your contribution BearChow, it is good to hear you appreciate the video. All the best, Jesse
Great explanation. It has motivated me to fix my RV house battery charging system. The current system is 2 x lead acid batteries of about 140 AH capacity. They are used to power electronics, fridge and a CPAP machine when shore power or the Onan generator is not connected.
Charging is by a 12v charger fed by shore power or the Onan generator. There is also a relay activated connection to the RV alternator but I have disconnected this for obvious reasons. I have also installed a solar panel on the roof. The solar panel includes a charge controller that I have connected directly to the battery. The panel supplies up to 2A when the sun shines.
I want to reconnect the alternator to provide more charge when the RV engine is running but I am concerned that having 3 sources of charging current might cause problems. Is there such a thing as a multi port dc/dc converter that will manage the 3 inputs to give optimal charging for my batteries.
Thank you so much Jessy , you reminded me with my collage time, I should call you professor Jessy! Thank you sir for explaining things that well
And thank you sir, for putting a smile on my face! All the best, Jesse.
FINALLY good rock solid info
Hi Christian, thanks for your message. It is good to hear you found the video useful. All the best, Jesse.
For reals!!!
Iam going to go with the option 4 guy with the Toyota minivan as i myself live in my dodge caravan and dont want to hurt or put anymore wear on the old girl .but great video please keep em coming.thank you
Thanks for sharing!
Absolutely wonderful video........excellent clarity on the points, one of THE BEST......THANK YOU for your time and efforts in sharing your knowledge. I have been watching hundreds of videos to get a grasp on this subject to properly understand the basic principles, finally found the right one.
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video. I’m keen to learn how I can add a jump start function to my system.
I have starter battery > dc with inbuilt regulator and solar input > lithium house battery > inverter and 12v outlets.
I was wondering if I could add a smart isolator solenoid ( like you would use use in option 1) that has an override jump start option that I could wire to a push button switch in the vehicle instrument panel.
Eg starter > smart isolator > dc > house etc.
Or would I have to run a seperate circuit with some kind of link switch that bypasses the dc charger to link and jump start?
Awesome video Jesse, straightforward, clear and simple to understand thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you... very helpful. Considering option (3) from Your video noted below, I was wondering if you could recommend an External Regulator, and a DC /DC charge controller combination? Perhaps something off of Amazon
Thanks again.
[Your video:
Deep cycle battery charging with your alternator: The 3 best options]
Best TH-cam video I've ever seen.
I have been waiting for this video, you full cleared up the last bit confusion I had on using a Solenoid. I am currently setup with option number 2, not exactly sure what the benefit of option 3 is over 2, I am guessing since your going straight to the house battery you can work at the max amperage of the Alternator to speed charging on the house battery, while using the dc-dc to control the charge on the Starter.
I upgraded my alternator to 200 amp alternator and put a 40 amp DC-DC so I get fairly fast charging on the house battery with out going over the maximum charge current rating on my AGM, which would be my one concern with going with option 3. I also did some testing before changing out the stock alternator and found my van used 45-50 amps just to run and also found out that the stock 130 amp alternator only put out 60 amps at idle so when I originally installed the DC-DC, I was pulling more amps than could be supported by my alternator causing my start battery to discharge.
Thanks for covering this subject for me I will be sharing this video on my feeds.
Jason
I'm glad you liked it Jason. Congrats on your new setup, great job!
Out of curiousity, what is your van?
I had this cool solar charge/Shore power system design made and super happy with it only to realize that wall power is maximum 16 amps where I live😂 so I'm now looking into this don't feel like waiting for days in case of bad weather for my batteries to be charged.
Hello Milo, thanks for your message and for sharing the plans on your project. Good luck! Jesse.
This is what i was looking for.
You enlightened me sir.
I consider to use the third option for my battery bank.
So what would be your advise for the suitable external voltage regulator for charging of a 12.8V 320ah Lifepo4 Battery?
Wich one to choose?
There are so many on the market.
What fuse to use and what power?
great clips man! I like the "quick and dirty" bush method! LOL!!! thanks!
Love ur vids as always, clear and concise. My only criticism here, is (& you weren’t advising to use them, cheers)that any inverter u can plug into a lighter socket is probably not worth wasting ur money on, they really are cheap junk that if u try and charge any half decent battery, they will just blow up in seconds.
It is good to hear from you Evan, and I agree with your perspective on the 'lighter-socket-inverter'.
Thanks for a great video Jesse! I decided to follow your advice and go with the 3rd option. So I will have the following setup:
Alternator: 100A
House battery: 200Ah LiFePo4
Starter battery: LeadAcid 75Ah
DC-DC Charger: Victron 30A
External regulator: MC-614 with alternator temperature sensor
Solar panels: 240W with Victron SmartSolar MPPT 100/20
Now to my question:
I really like the part about running the engine on idle to charge the house battery, eg while at anchor, but what happens when motoring at sea and the House battery becomes fully loaded?
Balmar underlines that the regulator must be shut down before the battery is disconnected by the BMS, since running an alternator without a battery will damage the alternator, especially if disconnected during high current charging, causing a load dump.
Isn't shutting the regulator down going to damage the alternator since it has nowhere to feed the current? My initial thought was to have the house battery top up the starter battery continuously, as a way to deal with the overflow current.
I guess the secret is in how the regulator and the DC-DC charger is programmed?
I'd appreciate very much if you could share your thought on this.
Thanks,
Jan
Hello Jan! Thanks for sharing your project plans, it sounds you are working towards a great setup. As for your question, I would like to draw your attention to the pinned comment at the top of this section. All the best, Jesse.
Could you link the pinned reply? It just seems to be your web site. This is a good question that I would love to see an answer for.
Hi Jan, here is a copy of the pinned comment:
Pinned by Solar Solution
Solar Solution
2 weeks ago
Welcome to Solar Solution, the channel on Off Grid Energy Systems! My name is Jesse, I am a Renewable Energy Engineer and I share my knowledge freely so that we can all benefit and grow together.
www.solarsolution.co
You are welcome to share your perspectives and experiences though the channel's comment section or forum. Please note that I do not provide personal advice in the TH-cam comment section.
If you wish to address the TH-cam community with their vast communal knowledge, please address your comment with 'General Inquiry'. For personal advice you can contact me through the main website.
Enjoy the channel, and good luck with your energy project!
All the best, Jesse.
Good job! I was going to comment on that first video with the Li install but didnt. I am in the same situation...do I also install the dc to dc charger or not? I will probably go that route. Keep doing vids...its appreciated.
Thanks for this KISS Video . Please could you make another video adding solar panels ( with charge controllers) to this mixture ? No information is available online if a house battery can be charged with both alternator and solar panel simultaneously . Many thanks.
You are welcome Muralidhara, and thank you for your feedback. You have an excellent question, I will provide you the answer through a new video. Once it is online I will notify you. All the best, Jesse.
It's been 5 months since your last video. We're all waiting for more!
Haha guilty as charged! I have been putting a lot of work in new content, I am sure you will enjoy what is to come: Within 2 weeks is my promise to you. Thanks for your message! Jesse.
Great information. I have one question. If I am charging 2 6 volt batteries ran in a series how would I connect the charger to each battery. Thanks for your help.
Option 4: install a 24v alternator. Bypass the internal regulator. Connect the 3 phases in series with one winding reversed. This will give you about 100v single phase. Rectify through Schottky diodes and put through a MPPT controller. You now have more power than a heavy duty alternator
Thanks Lexie, great feedback and an interesting option. Thanks for sharing! Jesse
I wanted to do this with many ac parralell connecting solar panel inverters advancements..therefor direct powering of some powertools from alternator, cannabalization redundancy, parasite loss management, segragating solar panels to appliances.. But the marketplace is not developed especially at 110v
If aftermarket contoller solved batteryless bootstrap start up of field coil, and could switch between nominal 12vdc charge controls and 110 approx crude ac output..perhaps exists in high price marine market and historical Frankenstein diy.
What?
@@robertmadsen8687 Frankenstein lived but only for a short time and probably committed suicide.
I was searching for a explanation what I'd need. Nowehere I found it so well explained without all the b*llshit. Down to earth dude, so very happy with your video. Thnx Jesse keep it up!
Haha, now that is a great compliment, thank you! I am glad to hear the video helped you with your project. Good luck and all the best, Jesse.
@@SolarSolution no problem! Now the only thing I'm trying to find out is whether I need a dc-dc charger which is insulated or one which is non insulated. Goes in our van which already has solar power but just not enough since it's now winter in Greece and the sun is not high enough on average. Do you happen to have a video or some explanation about what to choose somewhere? Kinda hard to find a solid answer..
Sorry, I do not have one yet. Great suggestion though, I will add it to the list! Enjoy, Jesse.
This is a great video, thank you for sharing, I have watched this several tines and I'm sure, I will watch again, great job!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Just came across this video and have a few questions regarding setup 3, and coming from a boat perspective:
You demonstrated Alt -> Ext. Regulator -> House -> DC/DC Charger -> Start.
Q1: Why wouldn't you set it up as Alt -> Ext. Regulator -> Start (Lead Acid) -> DC/DC Charger -> House (AGM Deep Cycle)?
I would think to prioritize charging the start battery first, followed by house battery/ies. Charging the start battery first would ensure that the start battery is always at 100% before house batteries are charged. That way if the house batteries drain flat, you're still able to start the engine to charge the house again.
With your demonstrated setup, should the start battery go flat for whatever reason, you would have to either jump start it or switch to parallel (in 12v/12v) to start, or use jumper leads to take 12v power from an individual 12v battery in a 24v or 36v bank.
I would typically setup Alt -> Start -> VSR (voltage sensitive relay) -> AGM Deep Cycle.
Q2: What would be the pros and cons of this setup?
Q3: Would you do it any different if it was a stator?
3rd Option : Alternator ( -to- ) External Regulator ( to ) House Battery (to ) Dc/Dc Converter (to) Starter Battery
Question : if the DC/DC converter isolates the Current to flow (1 ) way ....Then how does the starter battery get current back to the engine to start it ? Thank You For Your Help In Understanding ...Im new to this idea but love the benifits
Hello Mark, thank you for your question. A system can be designed and wired in a such a way, that the charging source [e.g. a DC charge controller] can be different from the load [e.g. a starter motor]. Good luck and enjoy, Jesse.
@@SolarSolution I'm going to put a battery lithium battery bank in my Toyota Prius...I'm thinking of using option 3 as my model ..,.was wondering if i could make the bank come directly off the source charge for the prius Car batteries ...there are a positive and negative cable going from the engine ( generator ) to the lithium batteries then to the starter batteries ...sooooooo...i was thinking you could either use diagram 3 from to the starter battery ....or.... come directly from the positive cable and negative cable from the engine to a dc converter to the power bank i believe diagram 2 ...or Both ?
Sorry to ask such a question ..Thank You In Advance
Great video! Super helpful. I would love to learn more about option 3, using an external voltage regulator from the alternator to a LiPO4 house bank with a dc to dc charger for the starter battery. How do we maximize charging of batteries without damaging the alternator while ensuring the starter battery is always charged? With the standard 80 amp factory-installed alternator be up to the task of quickly charging a LiPO4 house bank?
Hi John! It's good to hear you found the video useful. As for your questions, I would like to draw your attention to the pinned comment at the top. All the best, Jesse.
this might be the best video on the subject.
That is nice to hear, thank you for your message!
Wow. This is the best vid I've seen in a long while. Great explanation.
Glad you enjoyed it!
ive done a lot of homework with solar but what you did with this and other videos is just that little bit that helpes me understand exactly how to and what. thank you very much
Because of good video,I would ask you this ...dear sir i am an amateur and I bought a second hand solar battery this battery is 220 Ah please I want to know how to measure it if it is good or bad thanks for your reply
Brilliant. After many videos which have been helpful and learned a lot, this ties them altogether and makes sense. The best I've heard.
.Questions... should an alternator be reset to 14 8 v if possible for the house batteries and the the controllers to the starting batteries take it down to 14.4.?,
Thanx Jesse great content n I'm coming to you cause your the guru of generators etc.I have a 2020 jeep wrangler jl 2.0turbo with Etorque. Doesn't have a alternator,ork?
In a powertrain fitted with eTorque, a belt-driven motor-generator unit replaces the conventional alternator on the engine. This motor-generator unit performs several functions in addition to the standard operation of the alternator, which is to provide electricity to keep the vehicle's battery charged. But in an eTorque-equipped vehicle, the electrical system is significantly different than in a conventional vehicle.
With the eTorque system, the motor-generator supplies electricity to a dedicated battery pack used to gain several advantages. The motor-generator unit delivers a 48-volt current to a 430 watt-hour lithium-ion nickel manganese cobalt-graphite battery whenever the engine is running. The battery pack array includes a 3-kilowatt direct current-to-direct current (DC-to-DC) converter that changes 48-volt current to 12 volts. This enables it to power the vehicle's accessories, which run on a typical automotive 12-volt current. Also, it allows it to charge the vehicle's conventional 12-volt lead-acid battery.
The motor-generator also creates electricity during deceleration and braking through brake regeneration. This process captures energy that otherwise would dissipate as waste heat. That energy flows to the 48-volt battery pack for storage and keeps the battery pack at a proper charge level.so this is capable of handling a winch extra lights etc.my question is,I have a large stereo system that's going to be installed that will total at least 975amps, I changed the stock 12volt battery to a 750cca agm battery and added a limitless12k lithium battery capable of handling 10000watts-12000watts at 14volts.all wiring will be at 2/0 awg ofc wire.also a 500amp batttery isolator.I'm planning on installing a 100watt solar panel that they make for the hood of my jeep as well as a redarc bcdc dual battery charging system that can charge from solar panels.will the generator be able to handle that much amperage?I spoke to other guys with same vehicle that's pushing a lot more than that and have no issues.just want to be sure you it will be ok.
Finally a simple clear explanation. Thanks.
It is good to hear you appreciated the video, thank you for your message. Jesse.
Excellent video. However, my number 1 priority is to make sure the starter battery is ALWAYS charged. At any time must we avoid that the vehicle won’t start because of issue with the charging system. I’d rather have the house battery being unavailable rather than the starter battery. In your favorite solution nr 3 this seems a concern. How about the other solutions? Care to comment? Thanks again!
Thanks for your message and for sharing your perspective. I can definitely see where you are coming from, and my guess is that many system operators would prioritize the starter battery availability over the house battery bank.
This is a great topic for a discussion. too much to discuss right here. One consideration I could throw in the mix is that many system operators have the availability to start their main engine from either the starter OR the house battery bank. Enjoy the channel! Jesse.
Very informative video, thank you! I’m using option 1 to connect a flooded starter battery with a AGM leisure battery and I’m now concerned about the lifespan of the components! Would it make a difference if the leisure battery is also regularly charged with an external charger with specific currents for AGM? Thanks!
If you have a solar panel and charger it will charge the AGM at the correct voltage. So a lot of what is said here assumes everything is to be charged via the alternator. But in reality most RV's etc. use a AGM battery and a solar charge controller which will have detected the AGM upon installation and will have it's charge curve set accordingly. So I'm not convinced you need a DC-to-DC charger if you have solar.. I would also be more inclined to charge the starter batt first and with a Smart switch (called a VSR), which will flick over to the House battery when the starter is full. I would not have a direct link to the starter from the house, because if the House gets a short cell, it will drag the Starter down with it. The priority is to start the vehicle. Who cares about the rest.
So Jesse, could you please give an example of of single stage charge? For example, charging the house battery via a traditional 220V mains charger (old school type).
Thanks for the great analysis. I had been debating between options 2 and 3 and you helped me settle on Option 3.
That is great feedback to receive! I am glad the video helped you in your decision-making process. Good luck with your project and all the best, Jesse.
How could you wire a 48v battery pack to a 12v car alternator without blowing it up?
4th option: Have your alternator charge your starter battery, then add a battery isolator relay that kicks in @ 13.3 volts (relay turns off when starter battery gets to 12.8v). Normally, people use this to connect to house batteries, Don't. Instead, use this isolator to connect and power up a pure sine wave power inverter. This way, when alternator is charging starter battery it is providing power to inverter. Now run AC extension cord from inverter to a smart battery charger which will charge your house batteries. This is especially good if house batteries are a distance away from starter batteries.
Great explanation.... thanks.
Could you follow up with recommended components especially for your recommended option please? Love the Kiss analogy!!
Hello Robert, thanks for your message. Your question makes a lot of sense, though the final selection of components depends on your specific system details and performance requirements. Good luck with your campervan-project! Jesse.
Hi Jess. Great video's. Explain the best wiring for a duel battery truck with a duel battery trailer both equipped with solar panels.
Thanks and great suggestion Jaco!
Another option is run an inverter off of the vehicle, and then use this to power a battery charger designed to charge the house batteries. The advantage is when you have shore power, the same charger can be used to charge the house batteries. A 1,000 watt continuous pure sine wave inverter should be able to run a 60 amp charger.
Your three options do not provide for charging the house batteries from a campground outlet. You would still need a battery charger that runs off of utility main power. So the only real addition to make that work while driving would be an inverter. Many people will already have the inverter. They just need to install a battery selector switch and run heavy wires from the vehicle battery. When they park, they can switch the inverter to house batteries and unplug the charger.
Hi Danny, thanks for your contribution. I am sure your suggestions will inspire others. All the best, Jesse.
he did mention using a cigarette lighter charger in a pinch, but doesn't recommend it. Im guessing that this might be less effective because it limits your output & strains your electrical system as this kind of draw on an accessory outlet will probably cause excess heat & possibly battery / alternator wear. But I could be wrong. I actually thought the same thing. Why not just charge a deep cycle with a low watt charger plugged into a cigarette lighter inverter? Just unplug it when its not running???
I am going to conduct an experiment. On a day with decent weather & I have 2 batteries that are equally discharged, I will charge one battery on the ride to & from work during the day with my inverter, while another is being charged with a 100w solar panel, then compare their charge levels to see how well a 100w panel charges in comparison to an inverter (when charging 2 equally discharged batteries). I will also record drive/charge time & start/end charge levels to compare. It is good to know another way to charge a battery on days with limited sunshine.
Thanks for the great explanation Jesse.
Would you be willing to explain the best way to connect shore, solar and alternator power to charge a house battery?
Hi Reece, it is good to hear from you. Thanks for your question. I would be happy to explain the best setup, though this is really specific to the situation. For personal advice you can contact me through www.solarsolution.co/contact
Great video thanks. Your replies to others answered my questions, best 1/4 hr I have spent this week!
Hello Hendrik, thanks for you message. Your feedback is one of the nicest compliments to receive. I am glad the video was useful for you! All the best, Jesse.
But if you play it at 1.5 speed it would be the best 11 minutes and 25 seconds that you would have spent that week
Great video Jesse, I do a lot of installing of these systems but have never really considered your option 3 although I have heard mention of it.... I.will investigate the availability and economics of the external VR, but convincing paying customers of the extra expense is another task...lol..
Hi Graham, it is good to hear from you. I am glad to hear you were still able to learn something from this video. Good luck and all the best! Jesse.
if they don't pay for the right setup now it will cost them in the long run.
Wooo excellent video .i have a question i instol a dual Battery Isolator Kit on my van but when it's tha veiculo run tha dual Isolator Kit turn on and off for 6 or 7 time before to stay on do you know what's the problem??? Please let me know what happen 🙏 thanks
Helpful video sir. Id go with option 2 just to be on the safe side. What do you recommend to use for a dc-dc charge controller with 100Ah 12V deep cycle batteries?
Thank you for your message, I am glad to hear you enjoyed the video. Feel free to contact me through the main website for personal support: www.solarsolution.co. Good luck! Jesse
Hey Jesse, love the video. I have really learned a lot from your channel.
I have decided to set my van up using your second option in this video.
My only question is, is there a rule of thumb in regards to the amperage output of your alternator and the amperage of your DCDC charger? In This video you say that the dcdc charger amperage should be substantially lower than your alternator amperage. What do you mean by "substantially"? I have a 60amp dcdc charger. Do I need to buy a alternator that can do 200amp, 300amp or 400amp? What are we talking here?
Thank you so much for your time!
For anyone who is interested, I've decided to go with a 390 amp JS Alternator. They claim that the 390 amp alternator produces around 220 amps at idle speeds. They do require a 1" shorter serpentine belt as well as their thicker cable wiring kit. I spent around $600 for this upgrade. From what I gathered, 220 amps at idle should be plenty to handle the load of charging the house batteries with my 60a dcdc charger, plus the loads on my vans stock electrical system.
Hope this helps 🥴
I have a 2017 GMC Savana with the 6L V8, so I'm not too worried about difficulty turning the alternator at any speed.
Hi. How’s that setup working for you? I’m at the ‘choose alternator’ stage!
Mark
Gr8 video, I did learn something new, but about 4 option having a second alternator?
Hello Graham, thank you for your question. An additional alternator is indeed an option as well, one which several others have successfully implemented. All the best, Jesse.
That explains why the 7 point connector and wiring harness I recently installed does not provide for charging the trailer battery bank from the alternator. That is just fine for me as I will use an alternative charging source to preserve alternator life.
Hi Benny, thanks for your message. It is good to hear the video was useful for you. All the best, Jesse.
Hello, wonderful video's. Can you tell me if you are driving and the solar is putting charge as well as the alternator, will this help stop the alternator over heating while charging lithium batteries?
Hi thanks for your video. I wondered what your opinion was on the Victron Argofet, as this setup isn't covered in your video (i dont think anyhow). Many Thanks
Excellent video with great explanations combined with good visuals. Thank you for your effort. I would appreciate if you could help me understand one thing that is confusing me. Under option #2 one of the cons is that the dc-to-dc charger does not allow a high charge rate, or has limited charging, yet under option #3, which also leverages a dc-to-dc charger, you said it allows fast charging of both the house battery bank and the starter battery as it makes optimal use of the alternator. My confusion is that the dc-to-dc charger has limited charging due to current limitations irrespective of whether the house battery bank is being charged by the starter battery, or the starter battery is being charged by the house battery. One theory I have is that since the starter battery should not need as much charging as the house battery bank, the limited charging of the current limitations of a dc-to-dc charger (20A/40A/60A depending on the model) is not an issue; but my factory alternator is 150A, and while the vehicle should not need that much current, a dc-to-dc charger is a far cry from 150A. Am I overlooking something?
Thank you for your compliment Mark. It seems like you are on the right track. Good luck with your project! All the best, Jesse.
Fantastic explanation! Both the simple language used and well timed diagrams. Thankyou!
Thanks for your message Ash, I'm glad it was helpful!
i have a fourth version.. go with a power inverter use a extension cord connect that to a Deep cycle battery charger to charge your house bank...so simple..
An interesting idea, thanks for sharing your thoughts! All the best, Jesse.
Thanks for all of the info? It sounds like the 3rd option is what I would do. However, I have heard of people having a second alternator. If/when that is the case would each alternator simply charge their own system (starter battery or deep cycle/home batteries)? If/when that is the case, would I need these other components? Or perhaps just one on the house cycle to make sure it gets the correct voltage and flow?
Correct! Two completely seperate systems indeed. I think I will share a video on this topic as well, thank you for your question.
Your video was well produced, Jesse.
One point that might confuse consumers is that many batteries sold as deep cycle batteries are not full-fledged deep cycle batteries, i.e., they are more of an intermediate product with only moderately thicker plates than a starting battery. I purchased one such "deep cycle" AGM battery, and I believe the recommended bulk and float charging ranges were 14.4-14.6V and 13.5-13.8V, respectively.
On a different note, I noticed some sources recommend limiting charging current to 20 or 30 percent of the nominal battery capacity for AGM batteries. Is charging with excessive current worse than failing to fully charge a battery, e.g., when a vehicle (without photovoltaics) is running for only a short period of time between stops?
Thank you for your contribution and your question North Jersey. I agree with you on the wide variety of batteries out there on the market. The terminology used in the consumer market suggest a simple division between 'start' or 'deep cycle' batteries, though I agree with you on the possibility of confusion when certain 'deep cycle' batteries actually have life time expectancies which are closer to 'start' batteries than to proper 'deep cycle' batteries. This is often the case with commonly use AGM batteries. I think this is cause for a more in-depth video on the topic: I will 'sit on it' for a bit and share the video with you once it is ready.
As for your question: High battery currents cause different battery aging principles compared to undercharging. On average, batteries more often tend to fail prematurely due to undercharging, rather than high battery currents. This being said, you can damage batteries with either approach: Your specific battery usage will determine the predominant battery aging principle at play.
Good luck with your project!
Jesse
For option #3, can you give an example of the voltage regulator you would use? I've never heard of an external voltage regulator that has a charging algorithm. Thank you.
Hey Rob! Sure: Balmar has external regulators on their website. I find their products quite expensive, though their quality is [in my opinion] relatively good. FYI I am not affiliated with them in any way. Good luck! Jesse
I know it's not recommended, but I've had success running a big dual purpose deep cycle battery in my converted van as the primary starter and house battery for my fans and fridge. I accept that the life of the battery will be around 2 years. The battery only costs me $100 new at home depot and it' on roughly month 14. I have a 320 watt solar panel and a fancy charge controller so the battery is constantly being charged and used and is usually reads between 12.2 and 13v. I really put this battery through it's paces so I have to water it every month or so. I forgot to water it for a few months and it required 3/4 gallons of distilled water to top off this morning. No problem starting and currently reading 12.9v (due to solar charge). How much damaged do you think I did? Video on my channel.
Thanks for your message. $100 per 24 months, that sounds pretty cost efficient! The problem with batteries running 'dry' really starts kicking in when part of the active material in the battery is no longer submersed in the electrolyte [='dry']. Did you check whether the lead was exposed before you added the water?
Great video , could you do the 3rd and preferred with a solar set up too on vid ? 😊
Great suggestion!
Thank you I am a new subscriber to this I like working with batteries like 18650 batteries but I really like learning as much as possible
Welcome to the channel Omar! We seem to share a passion for learning, that is great. Enjoy the channel's content, all the best. Jesse.
Wow ... this is GOLD. Thank you so much for all this detail.
Glad you enjoyed it Mendoza, thanks for your message!
Thankyou. I am battery n solar power challenged. Good to check yr vid out. I did not understand much of the vid but was still good info. A start for me. :)
Glad you enjoyed it
Great explanation! My car has a 24v system, so now i'm wondering whats best - running 12v or 24v house battery?
Hello Johnny, thanks for your message. It's good to hear you enjoyed the explanation. As for your question, I would like to draw your attention to the pinned comment at the top of this section. All the best, Jesse.
Thank you for making this simple to understand!!!
Hello Roger, thanks for your message. It is good to hear the video was easy to digest! All the best, Jesse.
Hey Jesse it is a long explanation but very useful for people like me as I'm making that Solar panel battery bank (24 volts) but during the night I haven't nothing to feed my bank, so I am implementing that the use of an alternator using an old motorcicle to spin the rear weel with a belt connected to the alternator pulley, the rim is 24" Vs. 4 inch in the alternator to go over than 1200 rpm's. Do you think my project will work. Do you know that what kind of breaker I need to protec the battery bank from voltage/amps? from alternator?
Congratulations for your teaching class this is the first time I seen it, your advice will be highly appreciated
Greetings from Mexico
Hello Jorge, it is good to hear from you. What a great project you are working on! I am sure you are excited to see it in operation. As I was reading through you questions, I thought of several videos which will be useful for you. I have pasted them below with their topic descriptions. Enjoy! Jesse
DC Wire Sizes
th-cam.com/video/70JyQzeex7s/w-d-xo.html
Lifetime of Lead Acid batteries
th-cam.com/video/clVrcG8jV7Y/w-d-xo.html
Battery charging & voltages:
th-cam.com/video/87rxYyTZgbE/w-d-xo.html