What a great sense of satisfaction you and your crew must feel after doing such a nice job. You had a great home owner too, who did not stint on the drainage options. Very well planned and executed.
Sir, you and your crew is amazing! What a masterclass on excavation, footings, step footing, laying block, back filling, pouring and finishing a slab with an integral floor drain tied to the perimeter drain, on and on. So many pieces of a project I'm trying to do. What was the height and width of the footing? Thanks for all the insightful videos you post. Very helpful.
Very seldom, are step footings done properly today in residential construction. This video demonstrates the proper overlap method with bulkhead. Hat's off to Bondo. 🗽🇺🇸👍
So Bondo, im not understanding why the wide trench and then forms for the footing in the trench? Why not just the trench, and just pour in the trench? Also, back in my day these small excavators hadnt become popular. We always dug our basements with a crawler loader. And we used a traditional rubber tire backhoe with a loader bucket on front for trenching. I really cant see any advantage to using these types of backhoes. If anything there are disadvantages, such as in this case using another piece of equipment in order to move the dirt. Ditto when digging basements, another machine is required to move the dirt as the excavator is limited in that regard.
You would have to run a mini X and a tracked skid to understand how fast you can dig something. I have a rubber tired backhoe and it is a slow machine in comparison. As far as the trench footer it is hard to work in one and impossible to compact the overdid on the inside.
I would of been inclined to put a gutter along that lean-to, tying a downpipe into that drain off pipe you put in. My thought is it would drain off any rainwater off the property much faster while also stopping puddling/slow drain around the base. Just to speed the process up on a really rainy day. After all, you've done all the hard work with the ditch etc so the guttering would be doodle 👍
Why not core fill every H block cavity, instead of just the ones with rebar? You could lower the chute and shovel steer the mix right in the holes. Trowel off the tops, then fill the floor. Wouldn't that be much better, albeit a bit more expensive?
Question, what's the theory of not fill blocks with concrete? In California 100 percent of blocks are filled with concrete and rebar. Dose it because of freezing and frost line in your state? Or super cold states.
If that was just a lean to roof, why not put post holes where needed to support beam? I'm all for as much work as you can get, but that would've saved thousands. Even trench footings with block on top would've saved tons
It's a matter of opinion if you care about being water and critter tigh and blending with the existing building then they way he did it makes sense. but you are right something like a pole barn type build would be significantly cheaper but imo not as long lasting or as easy to blend seamlessly into the house.
If you couldn't drain to daylight like you did for this project, would a deep sump pump have been your alternative? I have a high water table on my property in phoenix and land is basically flat, I'm trying to figure out best practice for dealing with the water issue when I build.
I don't understand how the tie in rebar to the old wall works. if you punched in a hole for the rebar isn't it just floating in an open cavity on the old wall? Do you glue in the rebar to the old wall to lock it in?
No need to glue it in. there is no pressure pulling the foundations apart. the pins just keep the walls lined up. there is dirt on both sides of this wall.
regarding the floor poured over block, Would you fill the cells flush, let set up or tarpaper over them, then pour a 4" slab over them, as its for just outside storage area , or would you keep rebar the 2-3 inches above the blocks.? for the slab to tie into ? or would that connecting harm a slab when it moves during the winter/ spring time as its up north. thx
Very nice work! But here is what I don't understand. Why not tie and L-bar to the "matt" or your 2 rebar in the footer? It not only is strong but actually easier. You obviously know how to measure. You can just measure to have an L-bar come up every 3 block hole and definitely in the corners. Overall very nice work.
Actually if you wanted L bar you don’t have to know where the holes of the blocks go as you can bend the bar to go thru the holes. Also he really doesn’t need L bars on this job as there is no Side way push on the wall.
What concrete calculator do you use, i used two off Google, and it said I needed 10.59 for a 30.5 x 22.5 x 5 inches, but had to call for another 3 yards
@@bondobuilt386 ,I cut my 2x6 down to 5 inches, and I marked width every foot , then put a screw on both sides with a string , put the stone down, measuring along the string, , just doesn't seem right, but it's done now, at 164 a yd,, thanks
ANOTHER 3 cu yds? That's NOT a miscalculation, that is an error somewhere. Did your aggregate compact and require the extra 3 cu yds? Your 10.59 cu yd calculation was correct, but life ain't perfect so we always add 1/2 cu yd min per job, sometimes a 1 cu yd for large jobs like 20 cu yd+. You might have had a slight grade miscalculation, but it wouldn't be 3 cu yds off! Your ready mix company shorted you big time. Shame there are no safeguards against that except their truck weight ledger.
hagan lo que hagan . si no dinamitan las primarias y salimos a votar por millones ni que llamen a super monigote. van a poder parar un tsunami de votos.
SEE WHERE YOU BE SKIPPING BAD OVER THE REAL WORK ONE MINUTE THEY NOT STARTED AND THE NEXT FRAME THE WALL IS FINISHED WHAT KIND OF VODOO EDITING IS THIS YOU CALL YOURSELF DOING
![[#2024MAMA] G-DRAGON - 무제(Untitled, 2014)+POWER+HOME SWEET HOME+뱅뱅뱅+FANTASTIC BABY | Mnet 241123 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Ox29z5Nf1Uk/mqdefault.jpg)
Excellent work, and it's nice to see good old American craftsmanship. 🇺🇸
Heck of a deal. Homeowners get an expanded foundation and a fix for the soggy corner of the old foundation.
Yup killed two birds with one stone.
That home owner takes pride in his property and has everything buttoned up.
Yes he most certainly does.
@@bondobuilt386 I give you credit for the foundation repair you did on that garage awhile back. I would of ran from that thing!
It's cool to find someone local on TH-cam. My dad and I run an excavation company out of Liverpool.
Thats awesome 👍
Nice job! The pink toy was that the dogs or the guys wifes toy lol
GOOD JOB ON THE ENTIRE PROJECT!
Thanks
What a great sense of satisfaction you and your crew must feel after doing such a nice job. You had a great home owner too, who did not stint on the drainage options. Very well planned and executed.
Thanks and yes he is a good customer.
Sir, you and your crew is amazing! What a masterclass on excavation, footings, step footing, laying block, back filling, pouring and finishing a slab with an integral floor drain tied to the perimeter drain, on and on. So many pieces of a project I'm trying to do. What was the height and width of the footing? Thanks for all the insightful videos you post. Very helpful.
Thank you so much. glad it was helpful. We did a 10" thick by 20" wide footer.
Thanks you for the specifics! @@bondobuilt386
Someone with no lol
You and your crew do nice work and I am impressed that you pay so much attention to drainage
Nice job. Great quality. Beautiful work. That drain is real nice.
Thanks bud. 😀
Great work. It is good learn from professionals. Thank you for sharing.
Your welcome
You really need to get a deckover Bondo. Watching you guys drag those blocks that are right above the trailers axles is always painful lol
LOL it really works good though.
"And, that's how we're gonna' do it and, that's how we're doin' it and that's how we did it.". You put out a solid product, brother.
thank you so much.
Very seldom, are step footings done properly today in residential construction. This video demonstrates the proper overlap method with bulkhead. Hat's off to Bondo. 🗽🇺🇸👍
🇷🇺😌
So nice to see people on TH-cam who really know what they are doing.
Kubota handles those 3500 pound block pallets pretty easily...my old Cat would struggle with them everytime. Great job boys,
Cheers
Your block laying is very nicely done straight walls look great.
Thanks rick
So Bondo, im not understanding why the wide trench and then forms for the footing in the trench?
Why not just the trench, and just pour in the trench?
Also, back in my day these small excavators hadnt become popular.
We always dug our basements with a crawler loader.
And we used a traditional rubber tire backhoe with a loader bucket on front for trenching.
I really cant see any advantage to using these types of backhoes.
If anything there are disadvantages, such as in this case using another piece of equipment in order to move the dirt.
Ditto when digging basements, another machine is required to move the dirt as the excavator is limited in that regard.
You would have to run a mini X and a tracked skid to understand how fast you can dig something. I have a rubber tired backhoe and it is a slow machine in comparison. As far as the trench footer it is hard to work in one and impossible to compact the overdid on the inside.
Good job Ronny. You could incorporate that floor drain idea in future pours. Thanks for the content. Where’s Rotor?
Thanks uncle Jim.👍 Rotor had to stay home for this job. they had 2 big male dogs at this house. LOL
Nice job. Thanks for the video. If you guys were in my neck of the woods I would hire you.
Thanks 😀
Damn that's some clean work. Watching from Kansas thank u
Nice job!
Thanks
I just poured my second garage using that same rectangular drain. Works real well for catching the debris before it goes down the pipe.
Nice. I like trench drains but this box drain is a good clean out
Great job. Packs like a mule. Especially with the Biscuit walking on it😂
Yup 4 sure. LOL
I would of been inclined to put a gutter along that lean-to, tying a downpipe into that drain off pipe you put in. My thought is it would drain off any rainwater off the property much faster while also stopping puddling/slow drain around the base. Just to speed the process up on a really rainy day. After all, you've done all the hard work with the ditch etc so the guttering would be doodle 👍
Not a bad idea at all
I don’t like putting gutter downspouts into perimeter drains for many reasons. Gutters are a good idea but I run a seperate drain line for them
Nicely done. As usual!
Thanks Mark
I like how you put the french at the bottom of the footer.
Thanks it is a good idea any time.
Except that it wasn’t at the bottom of the footer, although that would have been a better.
looks great! but would it be worthwhile to apply waterproofing on the exterior of the block?(a rubberized coating i think thats used)
Another top notch job!
thanks Darrel
Why not core fill every H block cavity, instead of just the ones with rebar? You could lower the chute and shovel steer the mix right in the holes. Trowel off the tops, then fill the floor. Wouldn't that be much better, albeit a bit more expensive?
Question, what's the theory of not fill blocks with concrete? In California 100 percent of blocks are filled with concrete and rebar. Dose it because of freezing and frost line in your state? Or super cold states.
Nicely done as always
If that was just a lean to roof, why not put post holes where needed to support beam? I'm all for as much work as you can get, but that would've saved thousands. Even trench footings with block on top would've saved tons
It's a matter of opinion if you care about being water and critter tigh and blending with the existing building then they way he did it makes sense. but you are right something like a pole barn type build would be significantly cheaper but imo not as long lasting or as easy to blend seamlessly into the house.
@@stich1960 I agree with you. If he closes it in, definitely match existing
@@iowamatt2519 Yes it is going to be closed in
@@stich1960 The grade dropped off to much to do a pole barn lean too
If you couldn't drain to daylight like you did for this project, would a deep sump pump have been your alternative? I have a high water table on my property in phoenix and land is basically flat, I'm trying to figure out best practice for dealing with the water issue when I build.
Yes if you can't get to daylight the only alternative is a pump or storm drain to tie into.
Awesome work as always!
I hate to miss the days of doing cement work , Not 18 anymore !
Neither am I bud. LOL
It would be a good idea for the homeowner have a way to permanently move the water away from the foundation. Sorry, I commented too early.
No problem
Nice! When is it necessary to tar the outside of a wall?
Another great job in the books
Thanks 👊
how does gravel pack like a mule?
LOL Just a figure of speech.
From a price point why did you not excavate the entire hole and then fill with 2-3 clear stone since the stone would be self compacting?
Great job!! What was the total cost?
Amazing job brother!
I don't understand how the tie in rebar to the old wall works. if you punched in a hole for the rebar isn't it just floating in an open cavity on the old wall? Do you glue in the rebar to the old wall to lock it in?
No need to glue it in. there is no pressure pulling the foundations apart. the pins just keep the walls lined up. there is dirt on both sides of this wall.
regarding the floor poured over block, Would you fill the cells flush, let set up or tarpaper over them, then pour a 4" slab over them, as its for just outside storage area , or would you keep rebar the 2-3 inches above the blocks.? for the slab to tie into ? or would that connecting harm a slab when it moves during the winter/ spring time as its up north. thx
Why not make forms for the whole wall out of plywood and pour the whole wall that way?
Very nice work! But here is what I don't understand. Why not tie and L-bar to the "matt" or your 2 rebar in the footer? It not only is strong but actually easier. You obviously know how to measure. You can just measure to have an L-bar come up every 3 block hole and definitely in the corners. Overall very nice work.
Actually if you wanted L bar you don’t have to know where the holes of the blocks go as you can bend the bar to go thru the holes. Also he really doesn’t need L bars on this job as there is no Side way push on the wall.
Great work!
thanks
Great video! 👏🏻Thanks
How come I cannot find guys like Bondo when I need work done? Every time I hire someone they end up being clowns or ridiculously expensive...
What concrete calculator do you use, i used two off Google, and it said I needed 10.59 for a 30.5 x 22.5 x 5 inches, but had to call for another 3 yards
You are spot on so your grade must have been off or the plant shorted ya. Ill bet it was the grade.
@@bondobuilt386 ,I cut my 2x6 down to 5 inches, and I marked width every foot , then put a screw on both sides with a string , put the stone down, measuring along the string, , just doesn't seem right, but it's done now, at 164 a yd,, thanks
ANOTHER 3 cu yds? That's NOT a miscalculation, that is an error somewhere. Did your aggregate compact and require the extra 3 cu yds? Your 10.59 cu yd calculation was correct, but life ain't perfect so we always add 1/2 cu yd min per job, sometimes a 1 cu yd for large jobs like 20 cu yd+. You might have had a slight grade miscalculation, but it wouldn't be 3 cu yds off! Your ready mix company shorted you big time. Shame there are no safeguards against that except their truck weight ledger.
@@chrisa9159 so maybe they called for 3 , might not have poured 3, but I paid for the extra
Wow all that for a lean to but I'm just a plumber what do i know! Nice job young man
Thanks. Yes it was quite a project.
How much is your concrete a yard up there
Nice job done by pros of ‘da Mud 👍
LOL thanks
Driving me crazy that I can't figure out who Bondo is imitating when he says "hmmm?"
4" of fall! Wow. 1" would move a lot of water.
Maybe for faster drainage is my guess
It helped because the grade was lower in the back as well.
we call the rockyou got we call it crush and run it packs hard as concrete
Looking good
Thank you.
Storm Curb???? Like we do in Buffalo.
First 👍's up BB thank you for sharing 😅
Thanks Scott
48” frost line and you aren’t even close to being that far down with bottom of footing
What about that drain next to the garage
Not sure what you mean?
Do you do any work in your videos or do just do a lot of jawling.
Obviously you'r new to watching my videos. LMAO
@@bondobuilt386 well LMAO I've watched 6 of your videos and all ya do is a lot of jawling..
Its cheaper to order a little more than pay for a short load
For sure
Don’t all under the concrete chute.
thats from a circle T rep
Dude, I heard if it wasnt for circle T, you wouldnt have shit to do. Is that true bondo.
That’s a wimpy footer
To me there is no other way.
Thanks.
Biscuit, no shirt, NOT RIGHT. Just saying.
hagan lo que hagan . si no dinamitan las primarias y salimos a votar por millones ni que llamen a super monigote. van a poder parar un tsunami de votos.
SEE WHERE YOU BE SKIPPING BAD OVER THE REAL WORK ONE MINUTE THEY NOT STARTED AND THE NEXT FRAME THE WALL IS FINISHED WHAT KIND OF VODOO EDITING IS THIS YOU CALL YOURSELF DOING
just sayin
Green shirt @2:35 is milking it man he ain't doing nothing but twiddling the handle.