From what i can remember my dad always added isopropyl alcohol to his water proofing and then roller brushed it on. That was over 30 years ago so I don't know what they are using now days for water proofing, or if it's the same stuff as back then.
I know its been a long time since this was posted but I wondered why you did not use open end bond beam blocks and save a lot of work on setting the blocks?
Why did you guys choose to do block rather than form it and do a solid concrete wall? I mean I assume block would be cheaper overall perhaps because you would need to build out the rebar grid and everything if you did it formed set up but then with labor and everything else I wonder which would have been cheaper overall but either way looks freaking awesome
That retaining wall is going no where. I wonder if the rebar/concrete under the block wall was too much (I know it was from the engineer design). Also, besides the work for the crew with the concrete mixing, doing it manually gives them more time to fill the blocks in a much detailed way than with the concrete truck. Nice jobs guys!
Great job. Wall looks great. For the Henry's waterproofing. You should be able to roll it on with a low nap roller. Also looks like majority of the grout lines didn't receive the waterproofing. Isn't that the most permeable part of a CMU wall?
Chicken feet ! we call them line dogs here. I can understand the architect drawing up the wall like he did as there is not much of a buffer zone for expansion between the pool.
Howd you get the drain line to the other side of the wall? Did under it? Or did you pipe it on last video, cant remember. PS- No pump and you bought 90lb bags! 😂 My backs too weak for those these days. I'd be pumping
That came together nice! Super beefy and strong. Great job on the inspections too. That’s not always an easy process by any means. Fantastic all around (*per usual for Team Odell).
You mention a number of times that you had to pay a lot to fix the AT&T cable you cut , but never mention how much it cost. Something I'm sure a lot of people including myself would like to know.
I left a comment on the last video but it got deleted. I was trying to offer some friendly advice about easements because I write them for our utility company. I also deal with the legal department on situations like you have here. I can with probably guess what happened here. You hit the line, call AT&T, they come out to look at the damage, they call land and right of way to check for an easement, they check, see there is an easement and their property (trunk cable) was covered, they call legal, legal says yes charge them. You get a bill. With that said good luck and hopefully you covered yourself.
@@OdellCompleteConcrete I watched the video just like I have for the past 4 years or so. I enjoy them and they’re helpful being that I’m not in the concrete business. I’ve already said where my knowledge was. I can tell by your snide comment and the removal of my last comment you don’t appreciate the advice I gave. Or you’re upset because of the mistake you made and realize how much worse it could be in the future. I explained the process so you knew when our property get hit, legal gets involved. It’s a process most people (including field employees) don’t know. I offered very sound advice to help you and others. Like when people are asking, why is AT&T on private property? And you answer “no idea”. That’s literally what an easement is used for. To get permission to be on private property. We don’t need permission to be on public. Or when you reply ” it should’ve been overhead”, again that shows you have no idea how this works. I wasn’t trash talking or being negative. If someone was giving bad advice on building a block wall or pouring concrete, wouldn’t you try to help them out? Aren’t your videos on here to help people? You’re giving some bad advice on easements (a legal document) and I was just trying to help. Good luck 👍 I know there are tons of contractors that watch these videos. My advice to all of you is, if you run into a problem like this, at minimum ask the property owner to request a copy of the easement.
Hey guys excellent video thanks. Just a tip when using that bitumen waterproofing you should thinned it with diluent it’s a petroleum product recommended for that. 👍👍
I love it when the rebar grid and everything is lined up so perfect like that freaking beautiful! Sad all that nice work is going to be covered up with concrete dirt and block, but at least the homeowner's know they have a damn good foundation there. That thing's not caving in or giving way for anything!
Check out the mudmixer tool, it would have been perfect for filling the block (from the high side). You would still need your crew, but it would be an easier day.
So...i'm a concrete idiot and have no idea at all what is involved with making the decisions regarding the block wall. My question though is, why did the engineer make it a block wall instead of a monolithic pour? Is there a benefit to the block wall vs. a monolithic pour or was it cost related?
I got a question. Im looking on google and cant find a straight answer. That part at at 11:50 where ur guys fill in the wall. Is that mandatory? Does the concrete u add reach the bottom of the wall? Will filling them with gravel or sand work?
Job looks nice just need to rethink that waterproofing ! They sell better waterproofing products that you can roll on like paint n the only difference is just thicker
Odell complete concrete never fails to entertain and provide practical knowledge. Been a subscriber since you people started and I'm really glad I found this channel somehow back then. Keep growing guys, love from bangalore, India❤❤❤
💯 Percent respect for giving your guys work instead of using the concrete pump. And Respect to your crew for continuing to show up to work that's hard to find these days. 💪👍 God Bless
I remember an elderly builder telling me a mistake some folks make in building retaining walls is, not putting in horizontal rebar. Glad to see y’all doing it for that type of wall. Good work properly done should last.
would back up that paint waterproof with a black thick plastic membrane barrier. When water gets down in there it will come through the wall and if you paint the wall it will get mould or bubble. I know b/c that is what happened to me.
the waterproofing is to be applied with rollers, covering 100% of the surface (not omitting the block grout lines. If weep holes are required, the holes are sealed from the back side was well. This stops/mitigates the cmu absorbing water and then purging it out the "clean face". The way you have done it, will result in leaching.. and if painted, "water blisters" tend to form behind the paint. And the only way to fix, would to be to excavate, reapply proper waterproofing and re-back-fill, remove the paint from the external surface to allow for the cmu to dry out over time before repainting. Structurally, the wall looks fine and the Eng that did the calculation did not likely see the need for a wider footing heel but my calculations usually point me in the direction of a Cantilevered retaining wall type foundation for these types of applications
Hi Odell. I follow your work as I am planning on building CMU wall in my backyard. Q: why you filled up the back with dirt? I thought you’d be filling it out with crushed stone 3/4 for drainage.
Interesting choice of placement for your bottom “runt” layer of 3/4 cut blocks. The blocks at the bottom of a stack should be the strongest, especially when doing a retaining wall (lateral earth force). Did the engineering account for this? Why not just cut the uppermost blocks to grade?
Hi there Tim Odell, Ashley Abrahams from a small town called Paarl in Cape Town South Africa. I started watching Odell Complete Concrete for more than 2 years now and like all the videos, yours and your brother’s. Your last video however that massive backyard project, I noticed when you finished the block wall, the two steel plates for the deck you put in had no safety caps on and can easily cut someone when not noticing. I am very causes over safety wherever I work and particularly in construction and just hoping that you take in consideration on your future projects. Keep well and GOD BLESS.
You need to be really careful removing the rebar caps whilst working the area. Personally I'd never ever do it. I had a mate that had rebar go through his left eye and just missed his brain by millimetres. Caps are used for a reason.
Oh and personally, that's why I like 300 series blocks, not sure if you have them in the US. They are 290mm wide and in retaining walls that need beefing up, they are laid in the first 4-5 courses and then you can step back to 200 series blocks and they reduce the need for larger footings. I've never had a wall fail using them and built retaining walls over 3 metres tall.
H block are life savers in these situations. No need to lift over the rods. Those line stretchers are called line dogs here. Look into the jag clamps. They work even better.
Why didn't you drop your found or raise it to suit full block coursing instead of slicing blocks up? The answer may be in the video but I am skim watching...
Keep doing jobs like this and soon you guys will be built like The ROCK. Great teamwork guys, I hope your customers know how fortunate they are 🙂The Odells are good leaders and I would have worked for you anytime in my younger years.
Omg every time he bend over to slide the block down, I kept getting chills because of how close the rebar was to poking your eye out. Definitely should’ve put caps on those since there’s also a high ground not too far from them.
does the waterproofing not need to be on the mortar or the seams of the blocking? Seems like an access point for water to me, especially if the mortar job had some gapage, gives a spot for water to work its way in and erode
I'm going to be honest, i think this wall is incredibly over build but it all really depends on your engineer. Some engineers seem reasonable and some loose there mind with the rebar and psi. I get it though there a$$ is on the line with it all. Also I've always called those dog bones. That's what me and my friends have stuck to. I like it better than chicken feet. Cuz I don't get the whole chicken foot thing either.
They sell plastic trowel at the hardware store. They are really cheap and great when you need to spread something that's going to be a mess. Throw it away when you are done.
We call them chicken legs in arizona. If you look at the front in curls down it resembles a chicken foot. And better to be low cause you can add mortar to pick it up .
I wonder if they could of made a retaining wall on the perimiter and then filled the rest of the yard with fill to the height of the pool.. they would have to 86 the sliding doors.
![How to Build a Block Retaining Wall [DIY Guide]](/img/n.gif)
Respect to you for looking after your boys and ensuring they have work with the hand mix ✊
I’m sure the homeowner appreciates the extra costs
@@eyehear10 you clearly don’t understand. There is no extra cost.
You can also use a masonry brush to apply the waterproofing.
Line dogs, dog bones, or stretchers are what I hear most of the time in the north east.
From what i can remember my dad always added isopropyl alcohol to his water proofing and then roller brushed it on. That was over 30 years ago so I don't know what they are using now days for water proofing, or if it's the same stuff as back then.
You guys are really the best in the west :)
TY
I know its been a long time since this was posted but I wondered why you did not use open end bond beam blocks and save a lot of work on setting the blocks?
Good point, it would have been easier
Really nice!
How many days did it take to lay the block wall?
With the weather,
15 days
Why did you guys choose to do block rather than form it and do a solid concrete wall? I mean I assume block would be cheaper overall perhaps because you would need to build out the rebar grid and everything if you did it formed set up but then with labor and everything else I wonder which would have been cheaper overall but either way looks freaking awesome
That retaining wall is going no where.
I wonder if the rebar/concrete under the block wall was too much (I know it was from the engineer design).
Also, besides the work for the crew with the concrete mixing, doing it manually gives them more time to fill the blocks in a much detailed way than with the concrete truck.
Nice jobs guys!
Curious as to why y’all didn’t just use bituthene rolls for the waterproofing?
Great job. Wall looks great. For the Henry's waterproofing. You should be able to roll it on with a low nap roller. Also looks like majority of the grout lines didn't receive the waterproofing. Isn't that the most permeable part of a CMU wall?
In-between the blocks, yes.
I like to put it on thick with a red rubber float.
This stuff looks like tar
My dad said they always used to dilute it down with diesel fuel and roll it on
Good video guys. Did I miss the reason as to why the block wall - is not attached to the house? 😀
No, but why disturb the house?
No vibrating the concrete?
No need at this slump
its sweet
Love sweet
And the south is called a preacher set
I know its pricey but why didnt you pour it?
Oh, I see. It was spected that way
👍
We called them chicken legs.
OSS
Super weird that corner is right next to the house with no column right next to it
need a little work on following bond there bud
Music too loud. I have to keep turning up to hear the voiceover then turning down the overloud music.
How dare AT&T run cable through your job site?!
Chicken feet ! we call them line dogs here. I can understand the architect drawing up the wall like he did as there is not much of a buffer zone for expansion between the pool.
I know your chicken feet as line dogs
Howd you get the drain line to the other side of the wall? Did under it? Or did you pipe it on last video, cant remember.
PS- No pump and you bought 90lb bags! 😂 My backs too weak for those these days. I'd be pumping
Great work. But where is the horizontal rebar. U never showed that. And no, it’s not overkill at all. You should have poured a solid wall. Boom
that henrys stuff if you get one of them magnetic burners it heats the can via magnetic energy you can warm it up as it spreads much easier warmed up
I only saw horizontal rebar at the top, did you guys do that every corse? Great work it’s coming together nicely
Are u guys going to change privacy fencing too!! looks old now
Yes it will be changed
That’s an impressive wall that’s for sure, I’m enjoying the series. Thanks
Glad your enjoying!
Does not leaving wood in concrete make it a weak point?
That came together nice! Super beefy and strong. Great job on the inspections too. That’s not always an easy process by any means. Fantastic all around (*per usual for Team Odell).
Thank you!
You mention a number of times that you had to pay a lot to fix the AT&T cable you cut , but never mention how much it cost. Something I'm sure a lot of people including myself would like to know.
Wet setting the block would make it withstand a mile wide F5 tornado. Now it can only laugh at a mile wide F4.🤣. In all seriousness. Great job dudes!
It looks like they are in the bay area in California. No tornaders
@@e4d578 sarcasm bud c'mon!
Lol true 🤣
@e4 d5 These dudes work pretty much exclusively in Southern California.
Hot damn I've never ever seen a cmu wall with that much bar before. That thing not moving
Careful with trip hazards around vertical rebar, like a form board partially removed stuck up in the air for hours
I left a comment on the last video but it got deleted. I was trying to offer some friendly advice about easements because I write them for our utility company. I also deal with the legal department on situations like you have here. I can with probably guess what happened here. You hit the line, call AT&T, they come out to look at the damage, they call land and right of way to check for an easement, they check, see there is an easement and their property (trunk cable) was covered, they call legal, legal says yes charge them. You get a bill. With that said good luck and hopefully you covered yourself.
Guess what, if you watched the video it's self explanatory
@@OdellCompleteConcrete I watched the video just like I have for the past 4 years or so. I enjoy them and they’re helpful being that I’m not in the concrete business. I’ve already said where my knowledge was. I can tell by your snide comment and the removal of my last comment you don’t appreciate the advice I gave. Or you’re upset because of the mistake you made and realize how much worse it could be in the future. I explained the process so you knew when our property get hit, legal gets involved. It’s a process most people (including field employees) don’t know. I offered very sound advice to help you and others. Like when people are asking, why is AT&T on private property? And you answer “no idea”. That’s literally what an easement is used for. To get permission to be on private property. We don’t need permission to be on public. Or when you reply ” it should’ve been overhead”, again that shows you have no idea how this works. I wasn’t trash talking or being negative. If someone was giving bad advice on building a block wall or pouring concrete, wouldn’t you try to help them out? Aren’t your videos on here to help people? You’re giving some bad advice on easements (a legal document) and I was just trying to help. Good luck 👍 I know there are tons of contractors that watch these videos. My advice to all of you is, if you run into a problem like this, at minimum ask the property owner to request a copy of the easement.
Above and beyond, you rarely see retaining walls that robust
walls like this are standard in New Zealand! lots of hills and valleys!
I need something similar. What should I expect this to cost? I don’t want to be taken advantage of.
Minimum $175.00 a linear ft.
It depends on if you need the cut back of hill
rebar layout ugh , practice layout with dry course center center center ugh,
retired engineer / inspector 40 yrs, no worries , thats why u have dbl what u need in that wall lol overkill saves the day
That was definitely a lot of rebar and footer support for that concrete block retaining wall. Excellent job with it though.
Have you tried rolling the waterproofing with a paint roller
No
It needs to be heated first
Hey guys excellent video thanks. Just a tip when using that bitumen waterproofing you should thinned it with diluent it’s a petroleum product recommended for that. 👍👍
I love it when the rebar grid and everything is lined up so perfect like that freaking beautiful! Sad all that nice work is going to be covered up with concrete dirt and block, but at least the homeowner's know they have a damn good foundation there. That thing's not caving in or giving way for anything!
Check out the mudmixer tool, it would have been perfect for filling the block (from the high side). You would still need your crew, but it would be an easier day.
So...i'm a concrete idiot and have no idea at all what is involved with making the decisions regarding the block wall. My question though is, why did the engineer make it a block wall instead of a monolithic pour? Is there a benefit to the block wall vs. a monolithic pour or was it cost related?
I got a question. Im looking on google and cant find a straight answer. That part at at 11:50 where ur guys fill in the wall. Is that mandatory? Does the concrete u add reach the bottom of the wall? Will filling them with gravel or sand work?
Job looks nice just need to rethink that waterproofing ! They sell better waterproofing products that you can roll on like paint n the only difference is just thicker
That wall will be standimg till the second coming of JESUS!😮😮😮
Odell complete concrete never fails to entertain and provide practical knowledge. Been a subscriber since you people started and I'm really glad I found this channel somehow back then.
Keep growing guys, love from bangalore, India❤❤❤
Thank you and thanks for your long time subscription! We hope to keep entertaining!
💯 Percent respect for giving your guys work instead of using the concrete pump. And Respect to your crew for continuing to show up to work that's hard to find these days. 💪👍 God Bless
Do u thin the Waterproofing stuff... With water or solvent..... Whatever it is.....? To help the application........
I remember an elderly builder telling me a mistake some folks make in building retaining walls is, not putting in horizontal rebar. Glad to see y’all doing it for that type of wall. Good work properly done should last.
Why didn't you lay the foundation at the correct height so you didn't have to cut every block?
Chicken leg or line dog
would back up that paint waterproof with a black thick plastic membrane barrier. When water gets down in there it will come through the wall and if you paint the wall it will get mould or bubble. I know b/c that is what happened to me.
Makes sense
I normally leave the concrete to set for at least three days before building on it.
the waterproofing is to be applied with rollers, covering 100% of the surface (not omitting the block grout lines.
If weep holes are required, the holes are sealed from the back side was well. This stops/mitigates the cmu absorbing water and then purging it out the "clean face". The way you have done it, will result in leaching.. and if painted, "water blisters" tend to form behind the paint. And the only way to fix, would to be to excavate, reapply proper waterproofing and re-back-fill, remove the paint from the external surface to allow for the cmu to dry out over time before repainting.
Structurally, the wall looks fine and the Eng that did the calculation did not likely see the need for a wider footing heel but my calculations usually point me in the direction of a Cantilevered retaining wall type foundation for these types of applications
Great
TY
wheres the old boy!? in Australia thats what we call our dads meen no dissrespect
That is one giant footer!
Hi Odell. I follow your work as I am planning on building CMU wall in my backyard.
Q: why you filled up the back with dirt? I thought you’d be filling it out with crushed stone 3/4 for drainage.
The water will work its way to the drainage system
Why don’t you boys simply form walls rather then block?
Went off the engineering plans
The owner wanted block! duh! that’s why it’s in the plans..
Tell me you’ve never worked on construction without telling me you’ve never worked on construction
@@datboidego 😅😅😅 like whatttt
I saw so many issues here.
Line bone
Putting soil right against the asphalt water proofing is probably not a good idea. In your climate zone, it may be acceptable, I suppose.
no sure
With a solid fill I don't know why you didn't go with a DOEB block. Would've been lighter and easier on your shoulders
Went with the engineer plans
Shane thinking 💭 why didn't he just pump the concrete 😡 fill
Lol he might have been, maybe he wanted to stay home 🤣
@@OdellCompleteConcrete I know I would of wanted to stay home
Interesting choice of placement for your bottom “runt” layer of 3/4 cut blocks. The blocks at the bottom of a stack should be the strongest, especially when doing a retaining wall (lateral earth force). Did the engineering account for this? Why not just cut the uppermost blocks to grade?
For sure.
What type of mortar did you use here?
Spec
Can you give a ballpark of cost of this type of wall?
There's gotta be a better waterproofing product.
There is
@@OdellCompleteConcrete
Hopefully a sponsor steps up.
Hi there Tim Odell, Ashley Abrahams from a small town called Paarl in Cape Town South Africa. I started watching Odell Complete Concrete for more than 2 years now and like all the videos, yours and your brother’s. Your last video however that massive backyard project, I noticed when you finished the block wall, the two steel plates for the deck you put in had no safety caps on and can easily cut someone when not noticing. I am very causes over safety wherever I work and particularly in construction and just hoping that you take in consideration on your future projects. Keep well and GOD BLESS.
great idea
TY
@@OdellCompleteConcrete Thanx for replying, I only meant well cause your safety as the contractor are just as important.
You need to be really careful removing the rebar caps whilst working the area. Personally I'd never ever do it. I had a mate that had rebar go through his left eye and just missed his brain by millimetres. Caps are used for a reason.
Oh and personally, that's why I like 300 series blocks, not sure if you have them in the US. They are 290mm wide and in retaining walls that need beefing up, they are laid in the first 4-5 courses and then you can step back to 200 series blocks and they reduce the need for larger footings. I've never had a wall fail using them and built retaining walls over 3 metres tall.
👍😎✌️🤟
H block are life savers in these situations. No need to lift over the rods. Those line stretchers are called line dogs here. Look into the jag clamps. They work even better.
Yeah I assumed people have different name for them in other areas. Interesting name
I just call it line stretchers or rooster 🐓 legs lol
Greetings from Southern California
The Masonry Company
Why didn't you drop your found or raise it to suit full block coursing instead of slicing blocks up? The answer may be in the video but I am skim watching...
Not sure
Also, you put the perforated pipe in the wrong way. The holes are supposed to be at the bottom, not the top!
Yea we fixed them
That's comical. Making work for your guys.
Or they're gone
They don't work, they don't get paid. I see now.
How come no horizontal rebar in the bond beam block?
\how could you build a house with a indow below the grund level
In Pennsylvania we can line brackets ( Dog bones)..also why didnt you drill and pin the wall to the house with rebar?
Why disturb the house
Never seen a "chicken feet" tool.
Get it on
Why do you keep using your level when your laying to the line
Keep doing jobs like this and soon you guys will be built like The ROCK. Great teamwork guys, I hope your customers know how fortunate they are 🙂The Odells are good leaders and I would have worked for you anytime in my younger years.
Appreciate that and would have been a good time!
It is s much easier to use double-H- blocks than the very impractical 8-block😂.
I like open blocks
Omg every time he bend over to slide the block down, I kept getting chills because of how close the rebar was to poking your eye out. Definitely should’ve put caps on those since there’s also a high ground not too far from them.
does the waterproofing not need to be on the mortar or the seams of the blocking? Seems like an access point for water to me, especially if the mortar job had some gapage, gives a spot for water to work its way in and erode
100% coverage is best
I'm going to be honest, i think this wall is incredibly over build but it all really depends on your engineer. Some engineers seem reasonable and some loose there mind with the rebar and psi. I get it though there a$$ is on the line with it all. Also I've always called those dog bones. That's what me and my friends have stuck to. I like it better than chicken feet. Cuz I don't get the whole chicken foot thing either.
Water proofing can be applied with a roller. and very rich at least 2 coats or 3.
Yeah should have tried the rollers out
11:17 hand mixing the core filled block wall!
Why was that necessary?
12:09 now I get it, noble gesture.
They sell plastic trowel at the hardware store. They are really cheap and great when you need to spread something that's going to be a mess. Throw it away when you are done.
Sweet
Looks great you guys do amazing work my dad was a mason for over 30 years in California
STUD
We call them chicken legs in arizona. If you look at the front in curls down it resembles a chicken foot. And better to be low cause you can add mortar to pick it up .
I use a brush for the henrys a roller also works
Lucky you werent laying 12 inch block !
Haha yeah shoulders would have been done for
WHERES YOUR DAD IM MR ODELL HE LEFT YOU IN CHARGE OR SOMETHING SIMILAR MAY I ASK
What happened to the pool @13:50 ? Are they resurfacing or painting it?
Perfect timing! Just made my food and sat down at the table to watch a video. I played yours first! Lol.
Do not you need to connect the existing wall with the new wall with rebar?
I wonder if they could of made a retaining wall on the perimiter and then filled the rest of the yard with fill to the height of the pool.. they would have to 86 the sliding doors.
The tool is called a line stretcher or a line dog.
Rooster leg
@@themasonrycompany. It's amazing how many different names one tool can have.