When I had a bow in the wall, as long as it wasn’t to severe, I would take the top course off, and relay it straight, then when I stuccoed the wall, I would make up the difference at each end of the wall, it would just be an optical illusion, but it worked, and the top course would be perfect. You do very nice work, nice to see a contractor going the extra mile, if I ever need anything done, I know who I’ll be calling, to old to do anything myself now, LOL . 👌👍
I did poured walls for a couple years when I was 19 to 21. Hardest work I've ever done in my life, but I absolutely loved it. The guy I worked for had two crews. One crew had a full set of 8' forms, plus a filler panel truck, and the other crew had a set of 9' wall forms with a truck of filller panels. One of the best resources we had was having our own pump crane. It wasn't anything fancy or big. I think it was maybe 28 meters or so, but wow was it handy. He had one guy who did nothing but drive that thing around between jobs, and clean and maintain it.
@12:59, stead of cutting off the rebar at the top of CMU, make a 90 degree hook with 12 inch extension so the vertical wall reinforcement can tie together with the horizontal slab reinforcement. This will make the slab and wall as one integrated structure, otherwise the slab will be subjected to sliding or twisting forces.
To add to your point, the sliding or twisting forces will be exacerbated when a porch is constructed adding wind loads as a factor. Replacing the top course of block with low web bond beam block and placing a bond beam would significantly strengthen the wall against bowing.
depending on where this is I'd be concerned about frost protection and having a key between slab and wall to keep water from working its way under slab.
That's what I thought too and really easy to do and only increase materials cost by hardly anything. Would help prevent any potential problem where the bow in the wall becomes bigger and one day fails, particularly important since there is no horizontal reinforcing preventing the walls bulging out and failing. There is a risk the stones under the slab settle down over time with vibrations of passing traffic and earth tremors/quakes, and temperature changes, and eventually the slab cracks and subsides at the cracks so would have been better to compact a layer of stones, then put in more and compact that etc. Also best to avoid smooth rounder rock but instead use crushed sharp edge rock that locks up better - a solid base like this is important for durability and is so good that it would mean you don't need to cut the concrete.
@@jeffmiranda4758 ---Right. The rebar should come out of the footing when the footing is poured and the 90's are tied into the vericals. That is the BEST way to do it in my experience. It ain't never moving then especially after grouting the cells.
Nothing against what you did client went cheap to save money wall with bow is a failed wall I can't believe a permit will be pulled for the sunroom I highly doubt there is a footer under those blocks twp would never approve building on that slab
Great to see the steel reinforcement raised before pouring, not many contractors understand the importance of this, thanks for the video👍 Love to see people working hard when I'm on the sofa for a change😂
Raised on pieces of brick, not so great. I see contractors do it all the time on videos from Nth America. And I can guarantee that the steel mesh would have been pushed down to the plastic in many spots, because there wasn't enough support, whether brick or otherwise. Whatever happened to using correct steel chairs and plates or the all in one plastic support chairs/plates 600mm apart?
This is how to correctly set the steel and tie the wall starters into the footing of a retaining wall and to ensure that the steel is set at the correct height. I'd bet my left nut to a cracker that the repaired retains wall fails again. The only solution to a failed retaining wall is to completely dismantle it and begin again. th-cam.com/video/WVDI12_NyT8/w-d-xo.html
@@bondobuilt386 Even better would be to install HDPE dimpled foil to allow wood underneath breath. At least here we use it, it isn´t very expensive and it works quite good.
I've watched several of your videos and think you do great work. Skilled team, the small and big jobs alike you do well. Your attention to detail and communication w/ your customers is top notch. "Here comes the mud!" What can we all do to help the younger generations stop staring at their phones and learn a trade or a skill that's useful?
@4:34, vertical rebar is not embedded into foundation; it’s just “floating” in the CMU cell. Some of the existing CMU has cracked or deteriorated due to lack of horizontal rebar. Installing only vertical rebar adds shear strength vertically but not horizontally. Without the horizontal rebar this wall will open up like a zipper.
The wall will not open up like a zipper because it will get no water in it anymore. They are building a building over it with a roof over it and it will be heated. It will last 100 years or more. It is solid filled with concrete
My favorite part is the chair you put on top. Reminds me of the paparazzi that put a bag on top of Britney Spears car as she was driving down the street. "forgot your groceries".. nice dirt mound pedestal. True finished product
Out of curiousity, why not use some 1/2" bar in the occasional cell to help keep the slab and block walls tied? I'm assuming there were no lateral bars in the blocks either?
My experience is if u give a subcontractor a way to do a shortcut they will take it. If it takes 15 seconds longer to NOT swing the boom over the pool they won’t do it.
So you need to add perforated pipe under gravel that my suggestion when is rain that water saturated the soil and push out the concrete block. Just a exit water so that way soil and gravel not push away your existing block. So good luck with project hoping getting correctly.
Maybe put some holes in the blocks about every 8 ft to let out any gained water out. And just put a screen over the whole to not let bugs get in and plug it up.
You guys do great work and I love watching you turn disasters back into dreams. That said, you should really buy gym memberships for the guys. They're going to have heart attacks pulling all that extra weight around and doing heavy construction! Getting in shape will put ten years into your career and thirty years on your life, boys. Lay off the pulled- pork a little and get some Cardio ;) We're not getting any younger, and you want to spend some quality time with your grandkids :D
concrete & construction business owner here. i love the vids Bondo! yall do good work. i hardly ever comment on stuff but thought id share how we do it in ky when we deal with fixing faces/forms in general for instance your bow in the wall could have been fixed by doing an actual porch cap with a 1.5" reveal. or lay a 2x4 flat and form it with the face board straight on top of your flat bottom base. if that makes sense? lol also here in ky we have a 6yd minimum order so for something this small its more cost efficient to pour monolithic with #4 doweled to the house and with 90* bars connecting block wall to slab every 2' o.c everybody does it different however how i have described is what 9/10 engineers would have it drawn for us
pouring on plastic like that is a good way to crack the concrete there should always be 2 to 3 inches of gravel or P rock on top of it that way the water in the concrete has someplace to disperse it will have a tendency to crack it in squares.
Great work, Bondo! Were we able to keep concrete OUT of this customer's swimming pool? Tee hee. Your video editing and sound quality are also excellent!
Worst part of owning a pool is closing it Hate my backyard for 7 months a year. Just looks sad and makes me want summer. I’m in eastern iowa and prolly should have already. Planning for beginning of next week hoping we really get 3 more days in the 80s like weather is currently predicting
Thanks for the video! Next time you do parge coat, can you show it on video?Would like to see what’s used and how it’s done. I live about an hour and a half from you, any chance you’ll do a job that far out?
Bondo! My block foundation have cracks the size you just showed and water getting into my basement causing damage smh what the best way I can patch up to prevent more damage to my foundation please let me know thanks
I wonder if the rebar had went up a little in the front blocks and then the slab over them would it have stopped or helped the bow from getting worse if that might have been a possibility to happen.
Any water that’s in there will work its way out through the stone. No further water should get in there to freeze like it did before and push wall out. Also the structure will be enclosed and heated.
Needs a sonotube to a compacted pad in the very center. The rebar looks good. With no center tube, the mud should be deeper in the center with the rebar suspended toward the bottom of the pour.
1:46 good for him I like when customer rolls up there sleeves. I think what I would do different is a four inch trench around the perimeter to take the side load off the top row of cinder blocks.
I always wonder what you do with the holes made to hold the planks once done? I get that in this situation the owner is gonna put some facade on it but in situation where that’s not the case I would expect the holes to be an issue if not filled and if filled they would be very visible. That’s just the way it is perhaps? :)
Hey guys, I have a question. We are building a floating single car garage 16x20 and was curious if the quotes we've received so far are in the ballpark for a fair price. The spot we are putting the garage is a parking area that is gravel. It's flat, no huge slope or anything crazy. The city wants 12" x 8" footers with a 4" slab, #4 rebar and mesh, with compacted sand, and 4000 psi concrete. We live in Wisconsin so I know you all are in NY. We've been quoted $7000 to $8500 so far and it just seems high IMO. So, I'm reaching out to find out if I'm wrong and those would be fair quotes or do you think because our job isn't big enough we are getting charged a bit extra because they really don't want to do such a small job? Or maybe some other reason?
@bondobuilt386 thanks very much for the reply. I honestly wasn't sure the price was fair or not and you helped. The quotes we did get were from recommended people and the work I've seen done looks great. Thanks again.
Man still looks like a mess before your work. Water in the block holes and even looks like a drain strip at the base of the wall!!!! amazing what people do.
I'd argue this was a DIY project done on the cheap. Guy got a bunch of cinderblocks at Home Depot, had a bunch of rocks to fill in, and then had a buddy deliver a ton of gravel to cover it. Then he capped it with some concrete afterwards because the wife didn't like the gravel look. The concrete slab gave up the ghost because it had no rebar support and the fill began to settle leaving a gap and gravity did the rest. Back then, he probably didn't even have $50 in the project and he did it all in one weekend. And it was cheaper than a deck. If he got 15 years out of it, he got his money's worth.
@@bondobuilt386 It always seems that when a wrinkle comes, it's always at the last part of the job. Whether, it's the last stump to dig, the last nut to tighten, ....
What are your thoughts about rebar rusting on the top (when positioned vertically in the cavity) and showing as brown through the top of the concrete filler ?
you guys did a all some job with i couldhave you guys do my portch front is sinking down into ground it has roff that ties into the main roof of the front of house the gutter whount drain right it drains right into were it is sinking and if you look at it from the street and know what to look for you can see it big time it even cracked in half too this summer im gonna try too jack the roof part up and level it with 50 ton jack i went from cement work to killen turkeys at a plant for a liveing wished i would of stayed with foundation work its alot more fun job i have now suck,s
Im guessing that was never compacted in the first place and this was a DIY and the owner just built the walls and just started pytting soil and stones in, also Im wandering if they used the right type of soil to fill
Why use blocks instead of pouring a reinforced wall? I just formed and poured 48”stem walls for my 36x48 shop… the only time I see blocks around here is under mobile homes or broken chimneys
Should be block in the middle areas to support the slab aswell and the fill should be loose so it doesnt freeze again and heave patio. - just like a front porch
Should have nailed the form board to a 2X6 flushed to the edge of the pad bottom to give you a 1.5 inch over hang...NEVER install flush to a block face...
Couple of things struck me as odd, about this. As others have said, but you didn’t answer, why not bring the rebar from the walls right up into the slab? Secondly, I’d never use a half block on a corner, like that, especially not in the top row. If the wall is not a whole number of blocks long, which is an architectural fail, from the get go, I put the half blocks in the middle and on alternate rows use two 3/4 blocks, to keep the interlock at the corners. In the real world, I don’t suppose it makes a huge difference, but when it’s badly done to start with, it needs all the help it can get. I’m willing to bet the foundation under that is shoddy too and now, not only have you added to the weight, but the client is intending to put a structure on top, all sitting on a foundation laid by someone who cuts corners and only ever intended it to be a slab! If it all goes pear shaped in ten years time, who will they remember? You, or the guy before you?
In our climate if you tie the slab into the blocks the slab will expand and contract at a different rate than the blocks will and it will crack the blocks apart. That is why we do not tie them together like you say. The reason the first job failed was a lack of compaction in the inside. The guy always intended on building on top but never did. The sub grade settled and the slab settled and had a big crack in the middle and the water went right in there. Then in the winter the wet dirt would freeze and expand and that bowed the walls. We have fixed all those issues and he is going to enclose this. We rebar and filled all the blocks and compacted under the new slab so this will not be going anywhere. I have worked in this area doing concrete for 40 years so I do know what will work and what is going to fail. Thanks for the questions and comment.
Is that fill 100% stone? I am suprised it had a compaction issue since I understand that stone is self compacting and reduces hydrostatic presurre on the side walls..
waters been running into it for few years and freezeing makeing voids all over the place,you can see at the start where the water has run towards the edges,froze and buckled the wall
When I had a bow in the wall, as long as it wasn’t to severe, I would take the top course off, and relay it straight, then when I stuccoed the wall, I would make up the difference at each end of the wall, it would just be an optical illusion, but it worked, and the top course would be perfect. You do very nice work, nice to see a contractor going the extra mile, if I ever need anything done, I know who I’ll be calling, to old to do anything myself now, LOL . 👌👍
Thanks. Definitely could have straightened it with that method if the entire top course was removed.
I did poured walls for a couple years when I was 19 to 21. Hardest work I've ever done in my life, but I absolutely loved it. The guy I worked for had two crews. One crew had a full set of 8' forms, plus a filler panel truck, and the other crew had a set of 9' wall forms with a truck of filller panels. One of the best resources we had was having our own pump crane. It wasn't anything fancy or big. I think it was maybe 28 meters or so, but wow was it handy. He had one guy who did nothing but drive that thing around between jobs, and clean and maintain it.
@12:59, stead of cutting off the rebar at the top of CMU, make a 90 degree hook with 12 inch extension so the vertical wall reinforcement can tie together with the horizontal slab reinforcement. This will make the slab and wall as one integrated structure, otherwise the slab will be subjected to sliding or twisting forces.
To add to your point, the sliding or twisting forces will be exacerbated when a porch is constructed adding wind loads as a factor. Replacing the top course of block with low web bond beam block and placing a bond beam would significantly strengthen the wall against bowing.
@@baseballwarrior17a bond beam and tying the floor to the support wall are essential here.
yes the only proper way to do that!@@ianbelletti6241
depending on where this is I'd be concerned about frost protection and having a key between slab and wall to keep water from working its way under slab.
That's what I thought too and really easy to do and only increase materials cost by hardly anything. Would help prevent any potential problem where the bow in the wall becomes bigger and one day fails, particularly important since there is no horizontal reinforcing preventing the walls bulging out and failing. There is a risk the stones under the slab settle down over time with vibrations of passing traffic and earth tremors/quakes, and temperature changes, and eventually the slab cracks and subsides at the cracks so would have been better to compact a layer of stones, then put in more and compact that etc. Also best to avoid smooth rounder rock but instead use crushed sharp edge rock that locks up better - a solid base like this is important for durability and is so good that it would mean you don't need to cut the concrete.
We always bent the rebar in the blocks over in to the slab to tie it together.
Thats a bad idea it will break the top course off as the slab reacts differently than the wall with changes in weather and seasons.
I agree, That’s code here in the VI. Rebars erected from cistern foundation, cistern walls then bent and tied into slab. Continuously tied
@@jeffmiranda4758 ---Right. The rebar should come out of the footing when the footing is poured and the 90's are tied into the vericals.
That is the BEST way to do it in my experience. It ain't never moving then especially after grouting the cells.
@@danstiurca7963 exactly 👌
Nothing against what you did client went cheap to save money wall with bow is a failed wall I can't believe a permit will be pulled for the sunroom I highly doubt there is a footer under those blocks twp would never approve building on that slab
All I see is a hard working crew, doing another fine job, stay safe.
Thank you.
Good job as always, real nice finish on that slab
Thanks. Mike did a great job on finishing the slab for sure.
I use to do Cement around 1982 to 1985. This is a great job here. I like the finish you put on it.
Thanks
Great to see the steel reinforcement raised before pouring, not many contractors understand the importance of this, thanks for the video👍 Love to see people working hard when I'm on the sofa for a change😂
Raised on pieces of brick, not so great. I see contractors do it all the time on videos from Nth America. And I can guarantee that the steel mesh would have been pushed down to the plastic in many spots, because there wasn't enough support, whether brick or otherwise. Whatever happened to using correct steel chairs and plates or the all in one plastic support chairs/plates 600mm apart?
This is how to correctly set the steel and tie the wall starters into the footing of a retaining wall and to ensure that the steel is set at the correct height. I'd bet my left nut to a cracker that the repaired retains wall fails again. The only solution to a failed retaining wall is to completely dismantle it and begin again.
th-cam.com/video/WVDI12_NyT8/w-d-xo.html
Nice made a bad job look good 👍 👍👍👍well done to all the team 👍🇬🇧Manchester England 🇬🇧
New subscriber here. You and your men are very capable and conscientious. Good work! Great results.
Thanks Frank.
Nice job Bondo. Nice to see you covered the rim joist before you poured. The concrete will rot it away unless you have a barrier.
Yes I agree it needed to be protected.
@@bondobuilt386 Even better would be to install HDPE dimpled foil to allow wood underneath breath. At least here we use it, it isn´t very expensive and it works quite good.
Bondo, Love watchin' quality work while I learn stuff.... Keep it coming please..... Dave
Thanks Dave.
It's always nice to see your work come to fruition.
Nice job Bondo ! Might want to put a bead of silicone caulking where the form meets the wall next time to prevent the water leaking down the wall !
Good idea 👍
You should of used a concrete vibrating pencil tool to vibrate all that core fill concrete deep into all the cavities of the block.
Was thinking the same
Also should have centered the rebar.
Sloppy lazy job.
Agreed. The cells look like they were filled every 48". I would have poured that wall solid given the amount of pressure from the gravel.
It’s been a while since I’ve had the time to watch my favorite concrete show. Exultant work fellas.
Thanks for watching.
Very nice! Thanks for taking the time to shoot the video.
nice to see you back ron. good work as always
Thank you
Does it concern you the footer may have been installed wrong ?
Enjoying your videos. As a readymix driver in San Diego, it is interesting to see how it's done back east. Good stuff!
Love your channel and the work you do, greetings from Kansas City
Thanks Luis.
I've watched several of your videos and think you do great work. Skilled team, the small and big jobs alike you do well. Your attention to detail and communication w/ your customers is top notch. "Here comes the mud!" What can we all do to help the younger generations stop staring at their phones and learn a trade or a skill that's useful?
Thanks for the comment. I appreciate that. I hope the videos will inspire some of our youth and I hope to pass this knowledge down.
Really nice work. Thanks for sharing!
@4:34, vertical rebar is not embedded into foundation; it’s just “floating” in the CMU cell. Some of the existing CMU has cracked or deteriorated due to lack of horizontal rebar. Installing only vertical rebar adds shear strength vertically but not horizontally. Without the horizontal rebar this wall will open up like a zipper.
yea its america these guys dont actually know shi just show up make it look done
The wall will not open up like a zipper because it will get no water in it anymore. They are building a building over it with a roof over it and it will be heated. It will last 100 years or more. It is solid filled with concrete
Love the quality work Ron 👍
Thanks😀
My favorite part is the chair you put on top.
Reminds me of the paparazzi that put a bag on top of Britney Spears car as she was driving down the street.
"forgot your groceries".. nice dirt mound pedestal.
True finished product
Looks great. Glad you were able to salvage his block wall
Thanks Me too.
Out of curiousity, why not use some 1/2" bar in the occasional cell to help keep the slab and block walls tied? I'm assuming there were no lateral bars in the blocks either?
My experience is if u give a subcontractor a way to do a shortcut they will take it. If it takes 15 seconds longer to NOT swing the boom over the pool they won’t do it.
Nice fix. Came out good
Good evening, from Auckland, New Zealand ...great work!!!
Chur chur
👍🏼👍🏼nice job , as usual.. from upstate….
Saved their ass, you always impress!
Great job....looking good...thx Gary
did you tamp the old stone down before adding?I would think you would compact what's there first to see what happens
We did not it had 15 years to settle and water was getting in to settle it further.
Always look forward to seeing your videos each week
So you need to add perforated pipe under gravel that my suggestion when is rain that water saturated the soil and push out the concrete block. Just a exit water so that way soil and gravel not push away your existing block. So good luck with project hoping getting correctly.
Maybe put some holes in the blocks about every 8 ft to let out any gained water out. And just put a screen over the whole to not let bugs get in and plug it up.
Yeah, I would have done that first and let it dry out for a while before doing the concrete work.
You guys do great work and I love watching you turn disasters back into dreams. That said, you should really buy gym memberships for the guys. They're going to have heart attacks pulling all that extra weight around and doing heavy construction! Getting in shape will put ten years into your career and thirty years on your life, boys. Lay off the pulled- pork a little and get some Cardio ;) We're not getting any younger, and you want to spend some quality time with your grandkids :D
🤣
no chance his guys r going to the gym lol, its not about lack of excersise its just about eating too much lol.
I audibly laughed at his “oh no” when the stone went down when tamping. What did you expect? 😂
No if you stay to long in one spot that tamper will just sink and push the stone up around it. I wanted it to pack but not get it stuck in the corner.
No j bolts into block to hold walls? No rebar tied from block into slab? What up with that
RTT-ok 3rd is right on!
I hate this auto correct crap. You have to fix it sooo often
@@jimwilliamson7598then turn it off...🤪
concrete & construction business owner here. i love the vids Bondo! yall do good work. i hardly ever comment on stuff but thought id share how we do it in ky when we deal with fixing faces/forms in general for instance your bow in the wall could have been fixed by doing an actual porch cap with a 1.5" reveal. or lay a 2x4 flat and form it with the face board straight on top of your flat bottom base. if that makes sense? lol also here in ky we have a 6yd minimum order so for something this small its more cost efficient to pour monolithic with #4 doweled to the house and with 90* bars connecting block wall to slab every 2' o.c
everybody does it different however how i have described is what 9/10 engineers would have it drawn for us
Nice job, very clean.
Thank you sir
Crazy you talk about how that front wall bowed out yet didnt tie the slab to the wall to lock it all together
Excellent Bondo....I look forward to every video brother! Mark in Florida
pouring on plastic like that is a good way to crack the concrete there should always be 2 to 3 inches of gravel or P rock on top of it that way the water in the concrete has someplace to disperse it will have a tendency to crack it in squares.
Great work, Bondo! Were we able to keep concrete OUT of this customer's swimming pool? Tee hee. Your video editing and sound quality are also excellent!
Thanks Joe. Yes we kept it out of the pool. LOL
Worst part of owning a pool is closing it
Hate my backyard for 7 months a year. Just looks sad and makes me want summer. I’m in eastern iowa and prolly should have already. Planning for beginning of next week hoping we really get 3 more days in the 80s like weather is currently predicting
Yes I have to agree.
Thanks for the video! Next time you do parge coat, can you show it on video?Would like to see what’s used and how it’s done.
I live about an hour and a half from you, any chance you’ll do a job that far out?
I will try and show the parge coat. We generally do not travel over about 45 minutes from where we live.
Bondo! My block foundation have cracks the size you just showed and water getting into my basement causing damage smh what the best way I can patch up to prevent more damage to my foundation please let me know thanks
We dig foundations up like that and re parg them then put a new drain in to daylight or a sump pump then backfill with stone and gravel.
Thanks for your reply brother ❤ wish you can come down PA but I’m sure is out your way.
Ya we do not travel far for work buddy. @@normsgonz4782
I wonder if the rebar had went up a little in the front blocks and then the slab over them would it have stopped or helped the bow from getting worse if that might have been a possibility to happen.
They should have tied the rebar into the slab. Instead they just dropped the rebar in below the height of the block
Always good to remember to think like water to minimize failures.
Exactly
Whats preventing the wall from bowing out? I understand there wont be any water intrusion, but there's existing water in the fill.
Any water that’s in there will work its way out through the stone. No further water should get in there to freeze like it did before and push wall out. Also the structure will be enclosed and heated.
You can't beat a laser level. Good job Bondo.
No you cant. Thanks 😊
Awesome job. Definitely not easy!
Needs a sonotube to a compacted pad in the very center. The rebar looks good. With no center tube, the mud should be deeper in the center with the rebar suspended toward the bottom of the pour.
That gravel has been in there 15 years not sure it is gonna settle. LOL
@@bondobuilt386 Maybe you are in the south. Up here in MN that's going to heave and ho annually for sure.
There is a heated structure going on top of this foundation. LOL. And BTW we live in upstate New York with a 4foot frost line. @@Cotronixco
@@bondobuilt386 Got it. The structure should keep it from heaving.
Yes of course. Thanks for the comments and watching my videos bud. @@Cotronixco
1:46 good for him I like when customer rolls up there sleeves.
I think what I would do different is a four inch trench around the perimeter to take the side load off the top row of cinder blocks.
oooft what a mess of a job to come onto,good recovery by you and your guys.bad design from the start what was he thinking when it got built
Thanks. We tried to make it decent and to last.
Good work, that just seems like a weird setup to me. Just build a deck lol
They were always going to build a room on top of it just never got it done and then it failed from years of water getting in there.
What is between the slab and the rim of the house ? Is the tarpaper ?
It’s a biscuit thing 😂😂
Thumbs up and shared good to see thank you for the video.
I always wonder what you do with the holes made to hold the planks once done? I get that in this situation the owner is gonna put some facade on it but in situation where that’s not the case I would expect the holes to be an issue if not filled and if filled they would be very visible. That’s just the way it is perhaps? :)
A dab of mortar on your finger pressed into the hole and gone.
Hey guys, I have a question. We are building a floating single car garage 16x20 and was curious if the quotes we've received so far are in the ballpark for a fair price. The spot we are putting the garage is a parking area that is gravel. It's flat, no huge slope or anything crazy. The city wants 12" x 8" footers with a 4" slab, #4 rebar and mesh, with compacted sand, and 4000 psi concrete. We live in Wisconsin so I know you all are in NY. We've been quoted $7000 to $8500 so far and it just seems high IMO. So, I'm reaching out to find out if I'm wrong and those would be fair quotes or do you think because our job isn't big enough we are getting charged a bit extra because they really don't want to do such a small job? Or maybe some other reason?
I think any where from 6K to 7K is a decent price. That is if they do quality work for ya and they come recommended. Hope that helps.
@bondobuilt386 thanks very much for the reply. I honestly wasn't sure the price was fair or not and you helped. The quotes we did get were from recommended people and the work I've seen done looks great. Thanks again.
You bet glad to help. @@mr2miach
Why did you not compact before you added new stone? Why did you parge before you added the concrete pad?
Man still looks like a mess before your work. Water in the block holes and even looks like a drain strip at the base of the wall!!!! amazing what people do.
Nice job. Wish you guys were based in north ga.
Turned out great man!
I'd argue this was a DIY project done on the cheap. Guy got a bunch of cinderblocks at Home Depot, had a bunch of rocks to fill in, and then had a buddy deliver a ton of gravel to cover it. Then he capped it with some concrete afterwards because the wife didn't like the gravel look. The concrete slab gave up the ghost because it had no rebar support and the fill began to settle leaving a gap and gravity did the rest.
Back then, he probably didn't even have $50 in the project and he did it all in one weekend. And it was cheaper than a deck. If he got 15 years out of it, he got his money's worth.
Are they making the slab level? I sure hope not.
That big dude in the ball cap, he know all about overhangs. Or Dunlap Tires. Either one.
They all work together really well.
That splattered concrete is called: ice cream happens!
Yup I was just busting on Sean the driver for it. LOL
@@bondobuilt386 It always seems that when a wrinkle comes, it's always at the last part of the job. Whether, it's the last stump to dig, the last nut to tighten, ....
What are your thoughts about rebar rusting on the top (when positioned vertically in the cavity) and showing as brown through the top of the concrete filler ?
I have never seen that happen.
@@bondobuilt386 Was just wondering what you might do to correct this problem as there is potential for rust to split that concrete down the track.
I am not worried because that will not happen. I been doing this for 35 years and its never happened. @@Matlockization
@@bondobuilt386 Alright.
A very impressive fix.
Never understood why contractors dont fill blocks under walls. Insulation or stucture? Mice move in Minnesota
Mostly because of the cost. I always use a sill plate that covers the holes completely so mice won't go in there.
Why large rocks under the rebar while pouring concrete? does it reinforce the concrete or are you guys trying to get rid of rocks?
Do you not have a jumping jack for way better compaction
@17:33, wire mesh slab reinforcement needs ‘chairs’ so as to lift reinforcement off the bottom of slab.
19:32
Do you do anything special at the cracks before you parge?
you guys did a all some job with i couldhave you guys do my portch front is sinking down into ground it has roff that ties into the main roof of the front of house the gutter whount drain right it drains right into were it is sinking and if you look at it from the street and know what to look for you can see it big time it even cracked in half too this summer im gonna try too jack the roof part up and level it with 50 ton jack i went from cement work to killen turkeys at a plant for a liveing wished i would of stayed with foundation work its alot more fun job i have now suck,s
monday morning bondo show awesome
Would've been nice if you had taken pictures or video of what it used to look like before you started working on it.
Guess I’ll be late for work today
Thanks LOL
Dammit one more cup of coffee before I go.
Should strip your forms when shes still a bit soft. So you can rub your sides and make them look nice too.
Im guessing that was never compacted in the first place and this was a DIY and the owner just built the walls and just started pytting soil and stones in, also Im wandering if they used the right type of soil to fill
I don't see any weep holes in the base of that block wall. Would have thought needed to drain any water ingress out.
Why use blocks instead of pouring a reinforced wall? I just formed and poured 48”stem walls for my 36x48 shop… the only time I see blocks around here is under mobile homes or broken chimneys
I think Shawn owes you and your crew a beer.
hopefully that new concrete connection to the wall is waterproof enough. otherwise, beautiful. PS. sunroom will cover it ok.
Should be block in the middle areas to support the slab aswell and the fill should be loose so it doesnt freeze again and heave patio. - just like a front porch
Lose fill will settle. That's not the way to so it.
I hope you strapped that load of stone when you hauled it. 😂
Should have nailed the form board to a 2X6 flushed to the edge of the pad bottom to give you a 1.5 inch over hang...NEVER install flush to a block face...
Sounds like $ is the issue but yea I agree
I was thinking the exact same thing. Plus, the straight overhang would hide the bow in the wall.
He's building a wall on it, he said not a typical porch pour
@@KMORRICE1985Well that makes sense then.
Why is flush a bad idea? Genuine question!
Great job brother. How come ROW Wasn’t on the job.👍🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Make sure there’s adequate drainage for the gravel, otherwise any pooled water will freeze and expand.
You wouldn’t understand it’s a big biscuit thing 😂
where is your company located?
Shouldn’t you have put anchor bolt in the floor?
Block foundations always fail if they're not filled in frost areas.
Couple of things struck me as odd, about this. As others have said, but you didn’t answer, why not bring the rebar from the walls right up into the slab?
Secondly, I’d never use a half block on a corner, like that, especially not in the top row. If the wall is not a whole number of blocks long, which is an architectural fail, from the get go, I put the half blocks in the middle and on alternate rows use two 3/4 blocks, to keep the interlock at the corners.
In the real world, I don’t suppose it makes a huge difference, but when it’s badly done to start with, it needs all the help it can get. I’m willing to bet the foundation under that is shoddy too and now, not only have you added to the weight, but the client is intending to put a structure on top, all sitting on a foundation laid by someone who cuts corners and only ever intended it to be a slab!
If it all goes pear shaped in ten years time, who will they remember? You, or the guy before you?
In our climate if you tie the slab into the blocks the slab will expand and contract at a different rate than the blocks will and it will crack the blocks apart. That is why we do not tie them together like you say. The reason the first job failed was a lack of compaction in the inside. The guy always intended on building on top but never did. The sub grade settled and the slab settled and had a big crack in the middle and the water went right in there. Then in the winter the wet dirt would freeze and expand and that bowed the walls. We have fixed all those issues and he is going to enclose this. We rebar and filled all the blocks and compacted under the new slab so this will not be going anywhere. I have worked in this area doing concrete for 40 years so I do know what will work and what is going to fail. Thanks for the questions and comment.
Is that fill 100% stone? I am suprised it had a compaction issue since I understand that stone is self compacting and reduces hydrostatic presurre on the side walls..
waters been running into it for few years and freezeing makeing voids all over the place,you can see at the start where the water has run towards the edges,froze and buckled the wall