If you tension the rim tape more as you apply it you won't have the bubbles and you won't need the electrical tape at all. It not a weight issue, it's a technique issue. Also, you should overlap from the valve hole. I also recommend heating the tip of the sharp tool for a clean hole. Great video!
Stans rim tape installation isntructions are to overlap opposite the valve at the rim's welded joint. But you make a good point that Syd should've put more tension on the rim tape and skipped the electrical tape shenanigans.
Yeah I agree. I just installed rim tape and used gorilla tape, but it was buttery smooth without any bubbles. Really just a technique issue. But the electrical tape does remedy for any minor leaks I think many people will face. So it’s a good idea that’s new to me.
One trick I've found is to apply the tape, then put a tire and tube on the wheel and air up the tube. Leave the tube on for a bit to set. It pushes evenly on the tape and pushes the bubbles out. Remove tire and tube and tape will be smooth.
@@ultrastoat3298 respectfully disagree; once the spoke hole is sealed, air has no incentive to finish pushing the tape down across the width of the rim
@@ultrastoat3298 You are correct in the sense that inflating without a tube doesn't lift tape off the rim. But it also doesn't remove voids that were left over from the hand-application of tape. The point of inflating with the tube is that the tube physically pushes the tape into the rim and removes voids. If you inflate without the tube, air pressure stays exactly equal on both sides of the unstuck tape, and the voids remain.
At 4:28 or so, the rim tape isn't being applied correctly. You have to pull pretty hard to stretch the tape while applying it. That way it will go down nicely into the channel. Most rim tapes are pretty good, but I've found that "Muc-Off" is particularly easy to stretch. You shouldn't have to follow it up with electrical tape. The process of putting in a tube to set it is good, but also unnecessary. Just pressurizing the tire will do exactly the same thing. 30 psi (or whatever) puts 30 psi against the tape, whether there's a tube there or not. The only reason you'd need a tube is if the tire won't hold pressure at all. At 6:57 when you use the "pokey thing" just insert it from the other side of the rim, where you can easily see the hole, instead of the rim side, where you can't! The weight of extra layers isn't the issue, it's the thickness. It just makes the process harder. It's probably why putting the tire on was more difficult, as the bead couldn't go as low into the now filled up channel. Finally, putting it on a truing stand rather than on the floor makes it really hard to apply the kind of stretchy pulling force you need. I'd go to the Muc-Off tape application video, TBH. In one video they use a truing stand, in one they don't. Not using one is easier in my experience.
Have to agree. There are better versions of rim tape that is somewhat stretchy. No bubbles and no electric tape needed. Also for the record, the tubeless version of vittoria tires are notorious for being hard to get on and off rims
Yes that's the way of doing it.dont push it in, hold it on tom unroll around 20cm and pull that in the rim, follow with your thumb in the grove as you go like that around the wheel. It's easier if you just put the rim between your legs when sitting down in a chair as wheel should not turn. No need for 2nd tape then. And start short before the valve 1-2 spokes, and end the same after valve. Thus you have double tape on valve whole
This! The majority of their videos from the perspective of a 'beginner mechanic' is great, but this one was a bit too riddled with errors. Note on Gorilla Tape at 4:12 yes, the worst part about it is the residue. Worth having in the toolkit as if you ding a rim, regular rim tape will 'lift' as it's rigid. Gorilla Tape conforms much better, so it's the only option if you have any decent ding in your rim and want to run it tubeless. Thickness and weight are not an issue (weight and thickness would be the same or even less than a layer of rim tape + electrical tape). Also at 2:58 it's not a 'rule' to tape at the opposite end of the valve. It's common for mechanics to tape 2-3 spoke holes from behind the valve hole, and overlap 2-3 spoke holes (so you essentially have 6 or so spoke holes with a double layer). This makes the tyre ever so slightly tighter at the valve, preventing air usually escaping from the source = easier to inflate/pop the tyre onto the bead.
I think you missed an important point when taping a wheel for tubeless and thats having a proper width of the tape. The tape needs to be cca 5mm wider than inner width of the rim. That means if your rim is 30mm inner diameter you should use 35mm wide tape. 33 is not enough to cover the rim fully from side to side and more than 35 will probably not fit. Important word here is "fully" as the tire when seated has to sit on the tape. If there is tape missing in the corners of the rim bed it will not seal. This has been most common source of frustration why the tubeless thing does not work that I came across. If you do this properly there is no need for that electrical tape and I would avoid it as it adds thickness to the rim bed and can make mounting and seating tires really unpleasantly hard. I even encountered a wheel with two layers of tape on which the tire would not seat in the bead at all not even with over 60 psi in them..
One thing we felt wasn't clear in the video: you want to press the tape down into the center of the rim so that it isn't "floating" above the rim channel.
That wasnt clear in another video I'd watched either, it made sense that you would but people didn't seem to, glad I came to the comments after watching this one ha.
Good video. I also liked the chapter breaks. I spent the past year learning how to apply rim tape and one thing I noticed was that you did not mention was how wide of a rim tape to use. I never did know about the electrical tape over the rim tape. I'll have to remember that one.
Hmmm. We've never tried that and I would assume that it's not quite air tight enough, but who knows 🤷♀️ worth a try if you can't find anything else. Best bet in that situation though would probably be to find some kind of tape that doesn't stretch (maybe coaches tape?) and then cover it with electrical tape (which is airtight but stretches).
Fun upload! Now, if you have a video on “the best way to clean tire sealant off of your dog, after she sits on a small spill”, that would be awesome! (Asking for the dog, because she can’t type. ;)
Agree with some of the other posters. I use Stan’s tape, same probably for others. You MUST stretch the tape as you are applying it, then you don’t need electrical tape. You know you’re stretching it enough if the tape doesn’t bubble up over the spoke holes. Also on some rims (namely the Roval aluminum rims on my Specialized Levo) the tape WILL NOT stick well (the rim seems to have some kind of finish that resists mud and also tape sticking). You can solve this by using a 2-3in bit of gorilla tape to hold the starting end, so you can pull hard enough to stretch the the tape without it coming loose. Also, I have to disagree with one of the other posters, I think tape width is a bit of a preference, as long as it covers the spoke holes. I use same width as rim. I got a pro-built wheel the other day and the tape was the width of the middle channel, not the whole rim. I think as long as you stretch well and use good rim tape it just has to cover the holes. Having it the same width as the rim gives the tape additional purchase on the shoulders of the rim bead. My .02. Great channel!
I've found that tape that isn't as wide as the rim is more prone to getting the edges knocked loose by the tire bead when removing and installing tires.
If you can see bubbles in your rim tape, you did it wrong. I'd get fired if I taped a rim like this. *Stretch* *Your* *Tape* Seriously, stretch it tighter than a hipster's jeans. Tighter than your smallest lycra speedsuit. The reason why the seal on tubeless tape is airtight is because you stretch the tape and it conforms and molds to the contours of the rim.
I don't mean it badly, but I'm the only one who think this is not a great tubeless tape job? Many bubbels, no tension when applying the main tape an too many layers of tapes? You should try a good tape like from muc-off. Apply one overlapping round with strong tension on the tape (start a few inches before the valve hole and end a few inches after the valve hole) and you are done! By the way your style of explanation is great and i'm looking forward for your channel!
I’ve always started 4-5 hinches (1 spoke hole past the the valve hole. When you get back around you go one spoke hole the other direction. This way there are two layers over the valve hole helping the valve stem seal better
You have to pull strong from the ring tape side with one hand while pushing with the thumb of the other hand. Take advantage of the rim tape flexibility to sketch it while you put it. Then apply a bit of heat with a hair drier and you'll get a perfect finish.
I’ve encountered a similar issue with purpose made rim tape. When I chatted with a mechanic about it, he suggested using a heat gun/hair dryer to shrink fit after application. I’ve been doing it ever since, it works great. I’m pretty positive that’s what they do at the factory because it looks exactly like a factory finish when done. Doesn’t have the added durability of double layering like electrical, but probably worth trying for those of us doing gravel/road/cx tubeless where the pounding isn’t quite as severe!
I haven’t read all the comments here, but something that should be mentioned in all of this, that many people are unaware of, is that there are varying degrees of electrical tape. 3M makes good stuff and at numerous thicknesses. As a auto mechanic I love using Tesa tape, which is extremely quality electrical tape used by German and European auto manufacturers. Tesa tape is also relatively affordable on Amazon. It’s awesome, and as a cyclist I’m wondering if my Tesa tape would work for this. Tesa is flame and waterproof, has awesome stickiness, and is sorta like hockey tape on steroids. Anyway, maybe try Tesa.
Having someone hold the wheel while you pull the tape tight and "stretch" it into the channel keeps things really clean and tight. Having them rotate it makes things go really fast. No need to do a little at a time making a huge mess with bubbles. This also eliminates the need for your electrical tape as you can do two layers rather quickly. I also start and stop over the valve core hole. This leaves the overlap (4 layers thick) where you're going to poke your hole, making things extra strong. Factory tape is also applied under tension, that's why it's so clean 😉
I just put the wheel between my crotch and sit on it just enough to keep it from spinning. I use the weight of my body (not full weight) so I don't have to use only my arm muscles to stretch the tape.
Some tips that people may find helpful especially if it is a bit of a fight to get the tyres on the newly taped rim: 1 - If it is a new folded tyre take it out its packet, unfold it and get it round, you can then stretch the bead by putting a foot on the tyre bead and pulling the opposite side, do this and shuffle the tyre round through 180 degrees. 2 - when installing the tyre start opposite the valve and push the tyre bead into the channel in the middle of the rim - this will give you the greatest amount of slack to get that last awkward bit of tyre on. 3 - If the first side of the tyre is tight to fit (requires more than your fingers and thumbs to get it on) you can put sealant into the wheel once the second side is on, some bottles of sealant come with a little funnel that will allow filling through the valve (with the valve core removed) otherwise a syringe and a section of hose for bleeding brakes works really well. 4 - If your tight tyres wont seat (make that satisfying pop) get some liquid soap and dilute with water then squirt/rub this onto the rim & tyre all the way round. Any kind of soap will work, hand wash, dish soap, shower gel. Also don't miss the tip from Yankee Rider for heating the rim and rim tape - it's another good one.
rim tape hack - pull the tape onto the rim (dont worry about bubbles) once in place put in a inner tube and pump, leave for a few hours remove tube and there you go a perfectly taped rim 👍
This method has held up through a lot of abuse for us! But we will do a video in the future comparing different types of tape so we'll definitely try blue strapping tape.
Electrical tape is stretchy which gives that nice polished look! With double layers of rim tape (depending on the tape) you might end up with bubbles still.
You both communicate the important points clearly, but it's still entertaining watching Syd doing it as a relative beginner and having fun - which is reassuring too. This is important, I assume many of us will be watching to learn a new maintenance task, this makes attempting something unfamiliar much less confronting. I hope this is a winning formula for you (and us), I can't wait to see more.
Nice job! The 1-minute recap is very professional and useful! How about totally getting off all old sealant from inner tire surfaces when it's been caked on for months? can never get it all off when redoing/swapping a tire (want to reuse that tire eventually) , have stopped trying.....
Headset overhaul vid would be useful for the home mechanics out there. It’s an easy, often needed service yet I see many home mechanics mess it up. Installing new disc brake pads/ hyperextending and cleaning caliper pistons would be a useful vid too. Another easy service requiring minimal tools that can really improve brake performance between bleeds.
I watched this vid twice did the exact same thing they did and was shocked how easy this was to go tubeless. Everyone thinking about going tubeless just follow these steps. THEY WORK!!!!
This is one of those bike jobs Seth’s Bike Hacks always complains that when you post a video, 5k people immediately tell you you’re doing it wrong, haha. Great video, though I did it with just Stan’s tape, stretched it as I applied it, two loops around the tube (they only had narrow tape at my shop), and seems to be holding. Whatever works. The electrical tape is a cool idea.
The enthusiasm and willingness to help is admirable. But, do not use electrical tape. Tubeless tape should be stretched taut while applying, sometimes stretched tighter than taut. Every tubeless tape has its pros and cons and application quirks. I do like the Slime tape y'all are using. I also really dig whisky tape and WTB tape. I always start just past the 2nd spoke hole aside the valve stem, and then finish just past the 2nd spoke hole on the other side of the valve hole. This is about a 6" overlap. It is also worth mentioning that you should clean the rim with a fast drying solvent. Isopropyl alcohol is good for most cases but sometimes OEM tubes leave a greasy mold release on the rim causing poor adhesion of tubeless tape. In that case, you need a strong solvent, something like heptane (Clean Streak or similar). Use it outdoors as it's got VOC's. These fluids will dry in minutes, no need to wait days. You don't need to go crazy pushing the center of the tape down except when the tape overlaps as you finish. Pushing it down at the start creates wrinkles which interfere with the overlap adhering to the start of the tape properly. I always push the sides of the tape down for really good adhesion at the beads after the tape is fully applied.
I was out riding when this was posted. Got the notification mid-climb and tried to watch it right away (perfect excuse to take a break, amirite?!), but reception in the mountains is crap 😢 back home. About to take a shower and excited to watch it right after! 🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼
Love this different approach to tech videos, usually you have someone that knows what he/she’s doing. Seeing it from the point of view of someone who’s just learning is very interesting (and entertaining!)
You guys are AWESOME! Thanks for the tip about using electrical tape over top of rim tape. Even with just a floor pump I was able to seat effectively and my tire is holding air. Thanks again!
I have a nick in the factory rim tape in-between spoke holes. I hate to remove that stuff because it leave glue so hard to get off I have to burn it off with a heat gun. I tried your electric tape hack and it sealed hopefully it will hold. It looked really good so I have high hopes
Most important task for converting to tubeless - and I'm talking by current experience - is to seal the rim. DON'T TRUST VIDEOS WHERE THE THEY APPLICATE THE TAPE IN A FEW SECONDS.
Good stuff - I too use the rag technique to push it down but I always use DTSwiss Rim Tape as it’s less “sheer” than Stans Or Joe’s so I don’t have the bubbling as much and don’t need to use electrical tape afterwards ... you should check it out.
Using a tube will do an even better job in seating the tape furthermore You should be lucky to have a girl like Syd. All others are infatuated with selfies, make up, false eyelashes and those disgusting poop scoop nails
If you buy a good stretchy tape like dt swiss and maybe if you still have problems put on top inner tube inflate - it will stick much better. But don't just leave bubbles inside and put electrical tape which holds 0 of high pressures .... can not agree for this method :)
I use gorilla tape . The 1 inch tape works great for my rim size. I put electrical tape first and then the gorilla tape over it to avoid the sticky residue from the tape . As with syd it was trial and error until I had permanent success . well done
The electrical tape is the fucking bees knees...my first tire install leaked a lot but eventually sealed...doing this on the rear and then re doing the front was just butter...amazing tip!
I wouldn't put electrical tape or any other kind of tape on tap of the tubeless tape for the same reason you explained at the beginning. The electrical tape won't hold the pressure and eventually you'll have to redo the whole thing again. Whether you're applying a 2nd layer is because you don't trust the 1st one; as a result, you better apply a 2nd layer of hte same tubeless tape. But now here is my tip-trick come along !! Apply the 1st layer use the rag as you did to get rid of most bubbles then put the tire on and the tube too (yes the tube !!) Inflate the tube until the tire pops up into the bed, keep inflating up to the psi's for the tire is supposed to be with a tube. Let it be for 5 - 10 min and remove the tire and tube, with this process you get rid of the bubbles and attach the tape perfectly onto the rim surface all along. If you need apply the 2nd layer and repeat the same previous process but start the taping at the opposite side where you started the 1st layer so you don't have 2 beginnings at the same spot. Important: When removing the tube in the 2nd round just break one bed of the tire and take the tube off through that side, then put the tubeless valve on and tight the stem nut as required. Put the tire back on and inflate until both beds get on the rim (loud pop sound). Finally, remove valve core and inject the sealant through the steam at floor position (never on top), put the core back in and inflate to tubeless regular pressure + 5-10 psi's more and close the valve. Move around the tire to spread the sealant evenly inside the tire and the put the tire sidewides on a bucket or box for 10 min, then repeat the shaking and moving around and put it back on the bucket but on other side for 5-10 min Actually, I'll leave standing overnight after all this process to verify it holds the pressure and no major sealant leakage happened; reduce pressure to your preference. It's ok if sealant goes through tire walls in some cases (some tires have porous where the sealant shows up as little drops onto the walls I've done this procedure for years for all my bikes (road, gravel, MTB, and Fat) and never ever I had a problem or failure with the setup and no messy sealant all over 👍
Whyyyy why the electrical tape why!? :o Just use a good tape like muc off and u dont have to do that? :) And you have to keep the tape tight the whole time applying it. If you failed and attached a wrinkle, undo a couple of cm or an inch and do it againg tightly this time (no finger pressing is going to undo that wrinkle cause there is just too much material there to form flat). But other that those, great job Syd! :) Love both of ur energy! :D
Nice job. Tubeless is dangerous as evidenced by drawing blood. You didn’t mention why you start opposite the valve hole? I’ve always started 6 inches past the valve hole and then ended up with a double wrap over the hole. Also the electrical tape addition is a nice idea. Thanks. Enjoyed your first video.
I'll assume that the tire doesn't separate from the rim that easily, after all this, say during a major hole occurring while on the trail. If that did happen what a chore that would be to get resealed and pumped up with a small bike pump. Guess carrying a tube for backup is the way to go if riding miles away from the car/trailhead.
Some Roval wheels come with plastic buttons with o rings that go in the spoke holes, no tape needed, and if you have to work on a spoke just pull out one plug, fix the spoke, replace the plug, the plugs may be lighter, but they sure are easy to use, and get use to..
This is a complete bodge. 1st get the right width rim tape. You only need 1 layer of rim tape. Overlap 2cms at the valve hole. Pull the tape tight as you go. If you want to make setting up tubeless easy. Walk a tube in it; inflate, the tube inflating will seat the tape. Drop the tube then add sealant.
Name brand electrical works fine. If you are really in a rush. Also very ez to remove. Also you have to keep the tape stretched. Air bubble problem solved. This video is not a good one... What i learned from another video is to pull like a half meter and keep it stretched. Then wiggle it on to the rim. The result is a perfectly centered rim tape. Use a lighter or candle and heat the screwdriver or whatever you want and melt the tape instead of cutting it. It will shrink and you have a perfect hole that is airtight
I recommend using DT Swiss rim tape (4mm wider than internal width of rim) and do a double wrap. The way you do this is start on one side of the valve hole, wrap twice and finish on the opposite side of the valve hole. This way it is single ply around the hole to facilitate sealing the valve and it will be double everywhere else. You will not need any electrical tape or anything else and I guarantee it will hold air better and also facilitate seating the bead much easier.
ha ha! Syd is the best! love the first video :) good job Syd! just did my first rim tape a few months ago with success (no electrical tape though, might try that next time)!
Great video guys. The start point is still up for debate, as a mechanic, I do all my tape a few inches before the hole and end a few after. Also, a great tip, if you have time, is to put tubeless tape on install a tube inflate overnight remove the tube and tape will be super smooth. I do it at my shop all the time but maybe leave it for an hour and never have an issue always seal up nice and tight.
Oh Come on! Literally yesterday I notice my wheel is losing air because of a bad tape, and you guys decide to launch a new channel to teach me how to fix that? Thank you awesome! BUT you skimmed over my most pressing question ... How on earth do I clean the mess from the old tape?
Use soap, water and a scrub brush and then the pokey tool/flathead screwdriver to scratch the rest off. It's a pain and time-consuming, but worth doing!
Syd and Macky I can't live without this repository of bike shop video tutorials. In this video, I recognized the same issues I have with the tubeless rim tape on carbon rims... thanks for making these videos
Psyched to see this series! Just starting home mechanic stuff so this is really nice to know. Plus the reasoning is also very useful to know why we do things.
One trick I’ve found without using electrical tape is use the rim tape as you shown. Then install the tire but install a tube. Inflate to 30psi and leave to sit overnight. The tape job will come out looking professional. The issues I’ve had with electrical tape is too many layers of tape takes up the distance in the drop center of the rim. I run CushCore and I need every bit of space to get that tire on. Great video
I’ve watched other how-to videos and by comparison this one was very easy to follow and very helpful for someone not mechanically inclined. Great job!!!
You did not mention the most important thing at all, at least I din't find it. The width of the tape. Let's say the inner width of rim is 30mm, how wide tape should I buy ?
This worked for me. My four year old 35 MM IR MTB wheel had a slow leak. Went soft in a day. So pulled the tire, cleaned the rim, and tapped with Stan's Tubeless Tape. This was my first time putting on tubeless tape. Followed other video instructions. Pulled hard on tape as installed, BUT it did not cover spoke holes well. Had bubbles. Pushed down the tape and hoped that air pressure would solve. Nope. Went completely flat in less than 2 hours. Watched Syd install her tape. Looked terrible on the initial tubeless tape (just like mine). Then she added the electrical tape and made it look a LOT better. So I removed my botched tubeless tape and started over. Laid down new tubeless tape (Stan's). It looked better than first time, but still not great (lots of air pockets). Then I wrapped 3 layers of electrical tape. One strip in middle over the indent groove and spoke holes to push/hold down the tubeless tape, one strip on right side (near outer edge), and one strip on left side. Filled it up. 2 days later it still held air (did go slightly soft). Took out for a 90 minute ride. Air held. It was NOT pretty, but this "practical" method worked for me. Thanks Syd and Macky.
I loved it! You guys are my favorite people on youtube, srsly. I've never had a problem installing my rim tape, but I'll be watching this every time I need to just for a fun refresher.
Or you might have put on a new tire using leavers and you popped a hole in the rim tape when your leaver hit a spoke hole. Not that I've ever done that or anything. And I didn't get pissed off and angry because I spent an hour trying to get the tire to seat. 😕
Thanks for your great informative fun vlog, I`ve been cycling all my life but now with a half good gravel bike (Norco Search A1) I am trying to do more things myself. My sealant needs replacing soon on my tubeless wheels (Hunt 4 season Gravel x wide. with Specialized Pathfinder pro 700x42 tyres. ) should I also replace the tape on the wheels ? at the moment the tyres stay well inflated but it has been about 5 months in some hot weather since the last bike service when they were looked at. Thanks guys.
only reason i started to do this was i thought i would lose the weight of the innertube . but with the tape and sealant im gaining weight . what are the benefits of tubeless ?
You can run lower pressures which results in better traction (and feel) and the sealant will fill small punctures without you ever noticing. Then if you do get a puncture that the sealant can't handle on its own, you can usually quickly fix it with a tubeless tire plug.
That generally just spins the sealant to the center of the tire and doesn't fully coat the inside. That's why riding is the best option (bumps, turns, stopping all help get the sealant all over the inside) and the sealant dance is the next best option.
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If you tension the rim tape more as you apply it you won't have the bubbles and you won't need the electrical tape at all. It not a weight issue, it's a technique issue. Also, you should overlap from the valve hole. I also recommend heating the tip of the sharp tool for a clean hole. Great video!
Stans rim tape installation isntructions are to overlap opposite the valve at the rim's welded joint. But you make a good point that Syd should've put more tension on the rim tape and skipped the electrical tape shenanigans.
Yeah I agree. I just installed rim tape and used gorilla tape, but it was buttery smooth without any bubbles. Really just a technique issue. But the electrical tape does remedy for any minor leaks I think many people will face. So it’s a good idea that’s new to me.
interesting. what did the heating do to clean hole?
overlap from the valve hole? why?
@@李克诚加拿大 It melts away (instead of a rip), so there's a better chance that it doesn't rip later on
One trick I've found is to apply the tape, then put a tire and tube on the wheel and air up the tube. Leave the tube on for a bit to set. It pushes evenly on the tape and pushes the bubbles out. Remove tire and tube and tape will be smooth.
How much do you charge for spittin’ more faxx??
Just putting air in the tire without a tube will apply pressure all along the rim tape. Thats how pressure works.
@@ultrastoat3298 respectfully disagree; once the spoke hole is sealed, air has no incentive to finish pushing the tape down across the width of the rim
@@stephenerickson8107 Whats the incentive for the tap to lift?
@@ultrastoat3298 You are correct in the sense that inflating without a tube doesn't lift tape off the rim. But it also doesn't remove voids that were left over from the hand-application of tape. The point of inflating with the tube is that the tube physically pushes the tape into the rim and removes voids. If you inflate without the tube, air pressure stays exactly equal on both sides of the unstuck tape, and the voids remain.
This is awesome! Great work you guys
Thanks guys!
At 4:28 or so, the rim tape isn't being applied correctly. You have to pull pretty hard to stretch the tape while applying it. That way it will go down nicely into the channel. Most rim tapes are pretty good, but I've found that "Muc-Off" is particularly easy to stretch. You shouldn't have to follow it up with electrical tape. The process of putting in a tube to set it is good, but also unnecessary. Just pressurizing the tire will do exactly the same thing. 30 psi (or whatever) puts 30 psi against the tape, whether there's a tube there or not. The only reason you'd need a tube is if the tire won't hold pressure at all. At 6:57 when you use the "pokey thing" just insert it from the other side of the rim, where you can easily see the hole, instead of the rim side, where you can't! The weight of extra layers isn't the issue, it's the thickness. It just makes the process harder. It's probably why putting the tire on was more difficult, as the bead couldn't go as low into the now filled up channel.
Finally, putting it on a truing stand rather than on the floor makes it really hard to apply the kind of stretchy pulling force you need. I'd go to the Muc-Off tape application video, TBH. In one video they use a truing stand, in one they don't. Not using one is easier in my experience.
Exactly they missed THE MOST VITAL part of rim taping. Kind of painful to watch.
Have to agree. There are better versions of rim tape that is somewhat stretchy. No bubbles and no electric tape needed.
Also for the record, the tubeless version of vittoria tires are notorious for being hard to get on and off rims
@@doncrescas Yeah, most tires shouldn't let you just pop them on without a lever. The bead should be tight to ensure a good seal.
Yes that's the way of doing it.dont push it in, hold it on tom unroll around 20cm and pull that in the rim, follow with your thumb in the grove as you go like that around the wheel. It's easier if you just put the rim between your legs when sitting down in a chair as wheel should not turn. No need for 2nd tape then.
And start short before the valve 1-2 spokes, and end the same after valve. Thus you have double tape on valve whole
This! The majority of their videos from the perspective of a 'beginner mechanic' is great, but this one was a bit too riddled with errors.
Note on Gorilla Tape at 4:12 yes, the worst part about it is the residue. Worth having in the toolkit as if you ding a rim, regular rim tape will 'lift' as it's rigid. Gorilla Tape conforms much better, so it's the only option if you have any decent ding in your rim and want to run it tubeless. Thickness and weight are not an issue (weight and thickness would be the same or even less than a layer of rim tape + electrical tape).
Also at 2:58 it's not a 'rule' to tape at the opposite end of the valve. It's common for mechanics to tape 2-3 spoke holes from behind the valve hole, and overlap 2-3 spoke holes (so you essentially have 6 or so spoke holes with a double layer). This makes the tyre ever so slightly tighter at the valve, preventing air usually escaping from the source = easier to inflate/pop the tyre onto the bead.
I think you missed an important point when taping a wheel for tubeless and thats having a proper width of the tape. The tape needs to be cca 5mm wider than inner width of the rim. That means if your rim is 30mm inner diameter you should use 35mm wide tape. 33 is not enough to cover the rim fully from side to side and more than 35 will probably not fit. Important word here is "fully" as the tire when seated has to sit on the tape. If there is tape missing in the corners of the rim bed it will not seal. This has been most common source of frustration why the tubeless thing does not work that I came across. If you do this properly there is no need for that electrical tape and I would avoid it as it adds thickness to the rim bed and can make mounting and seating tires really unpleasantly hard. I even encountered a wheel with two layers of tape on which the tire would not seat in the bead at all not even with over 60 psi in them..
One thing we felt wasn't clear in the video: you want to press the tape down into the center of the rim so that it isn't "floating" above the rim channel.
That wasnt clear in another video I'd watched either, it made sense that you would but people didn't seem to, glad I came to the comments after watching this one ha.
Good video. I also liked the chapter breaks. I spent the past year learning how to apply rim tape and one thing I noticed was that you did not mention was how wide of a rim tape to use. I never did know about the electrical tape over the rim tape. I'll have to remember that one.
I've heard can uses coaches tape as well. What's your take on that. I can't find any of the tape in my country
Hmmm. We've never tried that and I would assume that it's not quite air tight enough, but who knows 🤷♀️ worth a try if you can't find anything else.
Best bet in that situation though would probably be to find some kind of tape that doesn't stretch (maybe coaches tape?) and then cover it with electrical tape (which is airtight but stretches).
That's an interesting idea. I don't think so, but who knows 🤷♀️
Fun upload! Now, if you have a video on “the best way to clean tire sealant off of your dog, after she sits on a small spill”, that would be awesome! (Asking for the dog, because she can’t type. ;)
😂😂🤣
Agree with some of the other posters. I use Stan’s tape, same probably for others. You MUST stretch the tape as you are applying it, then you don’t need electrical tape. You know you’re stretching it enough if the tape doesn’t bubble up over the spoke holes. Also on some rims (namely the Roval aluminum rims on my Specialized Levo) the tape WILL NOT stick well (the rim seems to have some kind of finish that resists mud and also tape sticking). You can solve this by using a 2-3in bit of gorilla tape to hold the starting end, so you can pull hard enough to stretch the the tape without it coming loose. Also, I have to disagree with one of the other posters, I think tape width is a bit of a preference, as long as it covers the spoke holes. I use same width as rim. I got a pro-built wheel the other day and the tape was the width of the middle channel, not the whole rim. I think as long as you stretch well and use good rim tape it just has to cover the holes. Having it the same width as the rim gives the tape additional purchase on the shoulders of the rim bead. My .02. Great channel!
I've found that tape that isn't as wide as the rim is more prone to getting the edges knocked loose by the tire bead when removing and installing tires.
If you can see bubbles in your rim tape, you did it wrong. I'd get fired if I taped a rim like this.
*Stretch* *Your* *Tape*
Seriously, stretch it tighter than a hipster's jeans. Tighter than your smallest lycra speedsuit. The reason why the seal on tubeless tape is airtight is because you stretch the tape and it conforms and molds to the contours of the rim.
I don't mean it badly, but I'm the only one who think this is not a great tubeless tape job? Many bubbels, no tension when applying the main tape an too many layers of tapes? You should try a good tape like from muc-off. Apply one overlapping round with strong tension on the tape (start a few inches before the valve hole and end a few inches after the valve hole) and you are done!
By the way your style of explanation is great and i'm looking forward for your channel!
I was thinking,this the worst tape job I have ever seen. I would not let them tape my wheels.
That's not a secret sauce, that's a bloody bodge. If you have to go around the wheel 3 times with 2 different tapes, you're definitely doing it wrong
I’ve always started 4-5 hinches (1 spoke hole past the the valve hole. When you get back around you go one spoke hole the other direction. This way there are two layers over the valve hole helping the valve stem seal better
This is how I do it as well, two layers over the valve hole. Would love to know the thought process behind starting opposite the valve hole...
@@fulltrucker I think it's so there are no joins nearest to the valve hole?
@@fulltrucker I think it might be so that the wheel is better balanced
@@jacobkeller29 Good point
You have to pull strong from the ring tape side with one hand while pushing with the thumb of the other hand. Take advantage of the rim tape flexibility to sketch it while you put it. Then apply a bit of heat with a hair drier and you'll get a perfect finish.
Your attitude and energy is just infectious. I can't wait to see more
I’ve encountered a similar issue with purpose made rim tape. When I chatted with a mechanic about it, he suggested using a heat gun/hair dryer to shrink fit after application. I’ve been doing it ever since, it works great. I’m pretty positive that’s what they do at the factory because it looks exactly like a factory finish when done. Doesn’t have the added durability of double layering like electrical, but probably worth trying for those of us doing gravel/road/cx tubeless where the pounding isn’t quite as severe!
That's a great tip, we'll have to try it!
Yep
Thanks for the tip. I’m gonna try it today at the shop.
Does this also help to push the tape into the centre channel of the rim?
On the Trail MTB it basically tensions/shortens the tape, so (within reason) it’ll help suck the tape into all the crevasses/channels of your rim bed
I haven’t read all the comments here, but something that should be mentioned in all of this, that many people are unaware of, is that there are varying degrees of electrical tape. 3M makes good stuff and at numerous thicknesses. As a auto mechanic I love using Tesa tape, which is extremely quality electrical tape used by German and European auto manufacturers. Tesa tape is also relatively affordable on Amazon. It’s awesome, and as a cyclist I’m wondering if my Tesa tape would work for this. Tesa is flame and waterproof, has awesome stickiness, and is sorta like hockey tape on steroids. Anyway, maybe try Tesa.
Rim tape never worked. Gorilla tape works every time.
Look elsewhere for correct rim taping instructions. This video is not only awful, it's wrong.
Having someone hold the wheel while you pull the tape tight and "stretch" it into the channel keeps things really clean and tight. Having them rotate it makes things go really fast. No need to do a little at a time making a huge mess with bubbles. This also eliminates the need for your electrical tape as you can do two layers rather quickly.
I also start and stop over the valve core hole. This leaves the overlap (4 layers thick) where you're going to poke your hole, making things extra strong.
Factory tape is also applied under tension, that's why it's so clean 😉
I just put the wheel between my crotch and sit on it just enough to keep it from spinning. I use the weight of my body (not full weight) so I don't have to use only my arm muscles to stretch the tape.
Some tips that people may find helpful especially if it is a bit of a fight to get the tyres on the newly taped rim:
1 - If it is a new folded tyre take it out its packet, unfold it and get it round, you can then stretch the bead by putting a foot on the tyre bead and pulling the opposite side, do this and shuffle the tyre round through 180 degrees.
2 - when installing the tyre start opposite the valve and push the tyre bead into the channel in the middle of the rim - this will give you the greatest amount of slack to get that last awkward bit of tyre on.
3 - If the first side of the tyre is tight to fit (requires more than your fingers and thumbs to get it on) you can put sealant into the wheel once the second side is on, some bottles of sealant come with a little funnel that will allow filling through the valve (with the valve core removed) otherwise a syringe and a section of hose for bleeding brakes works really well.
4 - If your tight tyres wont seat (make that satisfying pop) get some liquid soap and dilute with water then squirt/rub this onto the rim & tyre all the way round. Any kind of soap will work, hand wash, dish soap, shower gel.
Also don't miss the tip from Yankee Rider for heating the rim and rim tape - it's another good one.
Just found this channel and glad I did! Thanks for the vid. New Subscriber!
rim tape hack - pull the tape onto the rim (dont worry about bubbles) once in place put in a inner tube and pump, leave for a few hours remove tube
and there you go a perfectly taped rim 👍
That looks like it is bound to fail Use cheap blue strapping tape, pull it tight, and it will look perfect and hold up.
This method has held up through a lot of abuse for us! But we will do a video in the future comparing different types of tape so we'll definitely try blue strapping tape.
I thought I was paying attention...But why not just do 2 layers of rim tape?
Electrical tape is stretchy which gives that nice polished look! With double layers of rim tape (depending on the tape) you might end up with bubbles still.
You both communicate the important points clearly, but it's still entertaining watching Syd doing it as a relative beginner and having fun - which is reassuring too. This is important, I assume many of us will be watching to learn a new maintenance task, this makes attempting something unfamiliar much less confronting. I hope this is a winning formula for you (and us), I can't wait to see more.
Nice job! The 1-minute recap is very professional and useful! How about totally getting off all old sealant from inner tire surfaces when it's been caked on for months? can never get it all off when redoing/swapping a tire (want to reuse that tire eventually) , have stopped trying.....
I had some succes with goo gone, friction and baking the tire In the sun
Headset overhaul vid would be useful for the home mechanics out there. It’s an easy, often needed service yet I see many home mechanics mess it up.
Installing new disc brake pads/ hyperextending and cleaning caliper pistons would be a useful vid too. Another easy service requiring minimal tools that can really improve brake performance between bleeds.
I watched this vid twice did the exact same thing they did and was shocked how easy this was to go tubeless. Everyone thinking about going tubeless just follow these steps. THEY WORK!!!!
This is one of those bike jobs Seth’s Bike Hacks always complains that when you post a video, 5k people immediately tell you you’re doing it wrong, haha. Great video, though I did it with just Stan’s tape, stretched it as I applied it, two loops around the tube (they only had narrow tape at my shop), and seems to be holding. Whatever works. The electrical tape is a cool idea.
The enthusiasm and willingness to help is admirable. But, do not use electrical tape. Tubeless tape should be stretched taut while applying, sometimes stretched tighter than taut. Every tubeless tape has its pros and cons and application quirks. I do like the Slime tape y'all are using. I also really dig whisky tape and WTB tape. I always start just past the 2nd spoke hole aside the valve stem, and then finish just past the 2nd spoke hole on the other side of the valve hole. This is about a 6" overlap. It is also worth mentioning that you should clean the rim with a fast drying solvent. Isopropyl alcohol is good for most cases but sometimes OEM tubes leave a greasy mold release on the rim causing poor adhesion of tubeless tape. In that case, you need a strong solvent, something like heptane (Clean Streak or similar). Use it outdoors as it's got VOC's. These fluids will dry in minutes, no need to wait days. You don't need to go crazy pushing the center of the tape down except when the tape overlaps as you finish. Pushing it down at the start creates wrinkles which interfere with the overlap adhering to the start of the tape properly. I always push the sides of the tape down for really good adhesion at the beads after the tape is fully applied.
I was out riding when this was posted. Got the notification mid-climb and tried to watch it right away (perfect excuse to take a break, amirite?!), but reception in the mountains is crap 😢 back home. About to take a shower and excited to watch it right after! 🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼
Love this different approach to tech videos, usually you have someone that knows what he/she’s doing. Seeing it from the point of view of someone who’s just learning is very interesting (and entertaining!)
You guys are AWESOME! Thanks for the tip about using electrical tape over top of rim tape. Even with just a floor pump I was able to seat effectively and my tire is holding air. Thanks again!
First ever comment on the channel!
I have a nick in the factory rim tape in-between spoke holes. I hate to remove that stuff because it leave glue so hard to get off I have to burn it off with a heat gun. I tried your electric tape hack and it sealed hopefully it will hold. It looked really good so I have high hopes
Most important task for converting to tubeless - and I'm talking by current experience - is to seal the rim. DON'T TRUST VIDEOS WHERE THE THEY APPLICATE THE TAPE IN A FEW SECONDS.
Good stuff - I too use the rag technique to push it down but I always use DTSwiss Rim Tape as it’s less “sheer” than Stans Or Joe’s so I don’t have the bubbling as much and don’t need to use electrical tape afterwards ... you should check it out.
Using a tube will do an even better job in seating the tape
furthermore
You should be lucky to have a girl like Syd.
All others are infatuated with selfies, make up, false eyelashes and those disgusting poop scoop nails
If you buy a good stretchy tape like dt swiss and maybe if you still have problems put on top inner tube inflate - it will stick much better. But don't just leave bubbles inside and put electrical tape which holds 0 of high pressures .... can not agree for this method :)
I use gorilla tape . The 1 inch tape works great for my rim size. I put electrical tape first and then the gorilla tape over it to avoid the sticky residue from the tape . As with syd it was trial and error until I had permanent success . well done
The electrical tape is the fucking bees knees...my first tire install leaked a lot but eventually sealed...doing this on the rear and then re doing the front was just butter...amazing tip!
I wouldn't put electrical tape or any other kind of tape on tap of the tubeless tape for the same reason you explained at the beginning. The electrical tape won't hold the pressure and eventually you'll have to redo the whole thing again.
Whether you're applying a 2nd layer is because you don't trust the 1st one; as a result, you better apply a 2nd layer of hte same tubeless tape. But now here is my tip-trick come along !! Apply the 1st layer use the rag as you did to get rid of most bubbles then put the tire on and the tube too (yes the tube !!) Inflate the tube until the tire pops up into the bed, keep inflating up to the psi's for the tire is supposed to be with a tube. Let it be for 5 - 10 min and remove the tire and tube, with this process you get rid of the bubbles and attach the tape perfectly onto the rim surface all along.
If you need apply the 2nd layer and repeat the same previous process but start the taping at the opposite side where you started the 1st layer so you don't have 2 beginnings at the same spot.
Important: When removing the tube in the 2nd round just break one bed of the tire and take the tube off through that side, then put the tubeless valve on and tight the stem nut as required. Put the tire back on and inflate until both beds get on the rim (loud pop sound).
Finally, remove valve core and inject the sealant through the steam at floor position (never on top), put the core back in and inflate to tubeless regular pressure + 5-10 psi's more and close the valve. Move around the tire to spread the sealant evenly inside the tire and the put the tire sidewides on a bucket or box for 10 min, then repeat the shaking and moving around and put it back on the bucket but on other side for 5-10 min
Actually, I'll leave standing overnight after all this process to verify it holds the pressure and no major sealant leakage happened; reduce pressure to your preference.
It's ok if sealant goes through tire walls in some cases (some tires have porous where the sealant shows up as little drops onto the walls
I've done this procedure for years for all my bikes (road, gravel, MTB, and Fat) and never ever I had a problem or failure with the setup and no messy sealant all over 👍
Whyyyy why the electrical tape why!? :o Just use a good tape like muc off and u dont have to do that? :) And you have to keep the tape tight the whole time applying it. If you failed and attached a wrinkle, undo a couple of cm or an inch and do it againg tightly this time (no finger pressing is going to undo that wrinkle cause there is just too much material there to form flat). But other that those, great job Syd! :) Love both of ur energy! :D
Nice job. Tubeless is dangerous as evidenced by drawing blood. You didn’t mention why you start opposite the valve hole? I’ve always started 6 inches past the valve hole and then ended up with a double wrap over the hole. Also the electrical tape addition is a nice idea. Thanks. Enjoyed your first video.
We prefer not having double rim tape over the hole to make it a bit easier to get the valve stem in. But it doesn't really matter 😁
I'll assume that the tire doesn't separate from the rim that easily, after all this, say during a major hole occurring while on the trail. If that did happen what a chore that would be to get resealed and pumped up with a small bike pump. Guess carrying a tube for backup is the way to go if riding miles away from the car/trailhead.
Some Roval wheels come with plastic buttons with o rings that go in the spoke holes, no tape needed, and if you have to work on a spoke just pull out one plug, fix the spoke, replace the plug, the plugs may be lighter, but they sure are easy to use, and get use to..
This is a complete bodge. 1st get the right width rim tape. You only need 1 layer of rim tape. Overlap 2cms at the valve hole. Pull the tape tight as you go. If you want to make setting up tubeless easy. Walk a tube in it; inflate, the tube inflating will seat the tape. Drop the tube then add sealant.
Name brand electrical works fine. If you are really in a rush. Also very ez to remove. Also you have to keep the tape stretched. Air bubble problem solved. This video is not a good one... What i learned from another video is to pull like a half meter and keep it stretched. Then wiggle it on to the rim. The result is a perfectly centered rim tape. Use a lighter or candle and heat the screwdriver or whatever you want and melt the tape instead of cutting it. It will shrink and you have a perfect hole that is airtight
I used this trick to seat tires with not enough stretched bead and then I was able to set them up tubeless, yeah! Long live electrical tape 🤣
Hi... I have a question please. Can I use an inner tube if I wanted to by-pass the tape procedure? Thank you
I recommend using DT Swiss rim tape (4mm wider than internal width of rim) and do a double wrap. The way you do this is start on one side of the valve hole, wrap twice and finish on the opposite side of the valve hole. This way it is single ply around the hole to facilitate sealing the valve and it will be double everywhere else. You will not need any electrical tape or anything else and I guarantee it will hold air better and also facilitate seating the bead much easier.
This video is frustrating and funny at the same time to watch. Should at least practice taping the rim correctly before recording.
surprised the electrical tape added 20g, was expecting 5 or something
I have a question regarding the technique - is stabbing myself compulsory to get a nice rim tape job? ;-p
ha ha! Syd is the best! love the first video :) good job Syd! just did my first rim tape a few months ago with success (no electrical tape though, might try that next time)!
Great video guys. The start point is still up for debate, as a mechanic, I do all my tape a few inches before the hole and end a few after. Also, a great tip, if you have time, is to put tubeless tape on install a tube inflate overnight remove the tube and tape will be super smooth. I do it at my shop all the time but maybe leave it for an hour and never have an issue always seal up nice and tight.
Yep, always where I start. One spike hole past the valve hole. Then there are two layers sealing the valve stem
@@jfkusa123 Yeah depending on spoke count for me but it is normally a few inches of overlap from the valve hole
The way I apply rim tape is center first. The tape is supposed to cover the holes, not sit at the side of the rim.
Putting the wheel on the ground helps with getting the rim tape tighter and smooth and shouldn’t need electrical tape to follow up
Oh Come on! Literally yesterday I notice my wheel is losing air because of a bad tape, and you guys decide to launch a new channel to teach me how to fix that? Thank you awesome! BUT you skimmed over my most pressing question ... How on earth do I clean the mess from the old tape?
Use soap, water and a scrub brush and then the pokey tool/flathead screwdriver to scratch the rest off. It's a pain and time-consuming, but worth doing!
@@sydfixesbikes Thank you! Guess I'll have face the inevitable LOL
Syd and Macky I can't live without this repository of bike shop video tutorials. In this video, I recognized the same issues I have with the tubeless rim tape on carbon rims... thanks for making these videos
Great idea for a channel. Like that the videos are short, to-the-point and with a little humor!
Psyched to see this series! Just starting home mechanic stuff so this is really nice to know. Plus the reasoning is also very useful to know why we do things.
I stopped listening when she said “I’ve never done this successfully before” 😂
i don't understand the logic of using the gooey sealant when you have installed rim tape + electrical tape on it already
I thought rim tape was stretchy. And thought you was supposed stretch as you applied it.
You ain't alone. A lot of us have been biking for awhile and cant do some of the basics... this is cool, thanks guys
The 1 minute recap is genius! Great work guys. Super entertaining and useful.
One trick I’ve found without using electrical tape is use the rim tape as you shown. Then install the tire but install a tube. Inflate to 30psi and leave to sit overnight. The tape job will come out looking professional. The issues I’ve had with electrical tape is too many layers of tape takes up the distance in the drop center of the rim. I run CushCore and I need every bit of space to get that tire on. Great video
Great tip!
Gorilla tape for the win! Works better and cheaper.
The more wheels I've converted to tubeless, the more time I spend doing it super clean. I've learned this is quite an important step.
How about we do this process in a vaccum room. Like no air haha ahaha . No bubblez
Please say you didn’t use stick tape!!!!!
I just saw Rim Tape and got the completely wrong idea .
Pro tip: Always poke the hole from the hub side of the taped rim!
There is a wider electrical tape available, just so you know
I’ve watched other how-to videos and by comparison this one was very easy to follow and very helpful for someone not mechanically inclined. Great job!!!
Yeah, need to pull on the tape more and give it a left to right motion to smooth it out.
Wait, if spokes have nipples, can you milk them? Is that what sealant is?! SPOKE MILK😧!!
No way! How has no one realized this before?!
Mine will leak no matter what. I'm so over tubeless.
Question: If I do have 31.5mm inner width of my rims, what width of tape do I need to use, 30mm or 33mm? Thanks
Probably 30. Easier to do 2 layers if the 30 doesn't fully cover the holes that to cut down the 33.
Ok you are beautiful and i love you..........
You did not mention the most important thing at all, at least I din't find it.
The width of the tape. Let's say the inner width of rim is 30mm, how wide tape should I buy ?
You want tape that's about the same width your rim (inner width). A little narrower is fine. Wider is a pain.
This worked for me. My four year old 35 MM IR MTB wheel had a slow leak. Went soft in a day. So pulled the tire, cleaned the rim, and tapped with Stan's Tubeless Tape. This was my first time putting on tubeless tape. Followed other video instructions. Pulled hard on tape as installed, BUT it did not cover spoke holes well. Had bubbles. Pushed down the tape and hoped that air pressure would solve. Nope. Went completely flat in less than 2 hours. Watched Syd install her tape. Looked terrible on the initial tubeless tape (just like mine). Then she added the electrical tape and made it look a LOT better. So I removed my botched tubeless tape and started over. Laid down new tubeless tape (Stan's). It looked better than first time, but still not great (lots of air pockets). Then I wrapped 3 layers of electrical tape. One strip in middle over the indent groove and spoke holes to push/hold down the tubeless tape, one strip on right side (near outer edge), and one strip on left side. Filled it up. 2 days later it still held air (did go slightly soft). Took out for a 90 minute ride. Air held. It was NOT pretty, but this "practical" method worked for me. Thanks Syd and Macky.
Scotch Strapping Tape 8898
I loved it! You guys are my favorite people on youtube, srsly. I've never had a problem installing my rim tape, but I'll be watching this every time I need to just for a fun refresher.
Aw, shucks 😊
Or you might have put on a new tire using leavers and you popped a hole in the rim tape when your leaver hit a spoke hole. Not that I've ever done that or anything. And I didn't get pissed off and angry because I spent an hour trying to get the tire to seat. 😕
Oh yeah, definitely never done that either 😉
This is awesome!
Hm, aren't there dedicated rim tapes? I mean tapes, which are actially rim tapes instead of using electrical tapes etc. :)
Yeah, we're using both a dedicated tape AND electrical tape.
I've been told Slime sealant is highly corrosive on aluminum, one of my friends ruined a nice mavic crossmax rim doing so.
I think that was the old stuff. The new stuff is bicycle specific
You forgot to remove what caused the punture
What rim tape did you use in the video? It looks like regular scotch tape in the video. What brand is it?
Slime. Don't think they make it anymore
what is the liquid at 7:48 and for what, thanks!
what is the your recommended method of cleaning? best soap, solvent, etc?
th-cam.com/video/RBoE_OO9uAA/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for your great informative fun vlog, I`ve been cycling all my life but now with a half good gravel bike (Norco Search A1) I am trying to do more things myself. My sealant needs replacing soon on my tubeless wheels (Hunt 4 season Gravel x wide. with Specialized Pathfinder pro 700x42 tyres. ) should I also replace the tape on the wheels ? at the moment the tyres stay well inflated but it has been about 5 months in some hot weather since the last bike service when they were looked at. Thanks guys.
Nope, no need to replace the tape unless it isn't holding air!
@@sydfixesbikes That`s great, thanks for the quick response.
only reason i started to do this was i thought i would lose the weight of the innertube . but with the tape and sealant im gaining weight . what are the benefits of tubeless ?
You can run lower pressures which results in better traction (and feel) and the sealant will fill small punctures without you ever noticing. Then if you do get a puncture that the sealant can't handle on its own, you can usually quickly fix it with a tubeless tire plug.
Why didn't you put wheel back on that holding jig and spin wheel to spread sealant around the tyre ?
That generally just spins the sealant to the center of the tire and doesn't fully coat the inside. That's why riding is the best option (bumps, turns, stopping all help get the sealant all over the inside) and the sealant dance is the next best option.
So I’m assuming that if you have a rim that is not made for tubeless you cannot do tubeless right?
Sometimes, but not generally...
Great video. Where are you guys from?
Electrical tape should go just one layer over the holes(groove)then goes the tubeless tape right?
Nope, the opposite. Tubeless tape first, then electrical to finish it off nicely.