If you tension the rim tape more as you apply it you won't have the bubbles and you won't need the electrical tape at all. It not a weight issue, it's a technique issue. Also, you should overlap from the valve hole. I also recommend heating the tip of the sharp tool for a clean hole. Great video!
Stans rim tape installation isntructions are to overlap opposite the valve at the rim's welded joint. But you make a good point that Syd should've put more tension on the rim tape and skipped the electrical tape shenanigans.
Yeah I agree. I just installed rim tape and used gorilla tape, but it was buttery smooth without any bubbles. Really just a technique issue. But the electrical tape does remedy for any minor leaks I think many people will face. So it’s a good idea that’s new to me.
One trick I've found is to apply the tape, then put a tire and tube on the wheel and air up the tube. Leave the tube on for a bit to set. It pushes evenly on the tape and pushes the bubbles out. Remove tire and tube and tape will be smooth.
@@ultrastoat3298 respectfully disagree; once the spoke hole is sealed, air has no incentive to finish pushing the tape down across the width of the rim
@@ultrastoat3298 You are correct in the sense that inflating without a tube doesn't lift tape off the rim. But it also doesn't remove voids that were left over from the hand-application of tape. The point of inflating with the tube is that the tube physically pushes the tape into the rim and removes voids. If you inflate without the tube, air pressure stays exactly equal on both sides of the unstuck tape, and the voids remain.
I watched this vid twice did the exact same thing they did and was shocked how easy this was to go tubeless. Everyone thinking about going tubeless just follow these steps. THEY WORK!!!!
I’ve encountered a similar issue with purpose made rim tape. When I chatted with a mechanic about it, he suggested using a heat gun/hair dryer to shrink fit after application. I’ve been doing it ever since, it works great. I’m pretty positive that’s what they do at the factory because it looks exactly like a factory finish when done. Doesn’t have the added durability of double layering like electrical, but probably worth trying for those of us doing gravel/road/cx tubeless where the pounding isn’t quite as severe!
This worked for me. My four year old 35 MM IR MTB wheel had a slow leak. Went soft in a day. So pulled the tire, cleaned the rim, and tapped with Stan's Tubeless Tape. This was my first time putting on tubeless tape. Followed other video instructions. Pulled hard on tape as installed, BUT it did not cover spoke holes well. Had bubbles. Pushed down the tape and hoped that air pressure would solve. Nope. Went completely flat in less than 2 hours. Watched Syd install her tape. Looked terrible on the initial tubeless tape (just like mine). Then she added the electrical tape and made it look a LOT better. So I removed my botched tubeless tape and started over. Laid down new tubeless tape (Stan's). It looked better than first time, but still not great (lots of air pockets). Then I wrapped 3 layers of electrical tape. One strip in middle over the indent groove and spoke holes to push/hold down the tubeless tape, one strip on right side (near outer edge), and one strip on left side. Filled it up. 2 days later it still held air (did go slightly soft). Took out for a 90 minute ride. Air held. It was NOT pretty, but this "practical" method worked for me. Thanks Syd and Macky.
I haven’t read all the comments here, but something that should be mentioned in all of this, that many people are unaware of, is that there are varying degrees of electrical tape. 3M makes good stuff and at numerous thicknesses. As a auto mechanic I love using Tesa tape, which is extremely quality electrical tape used by German and European auto manufacturers. Tesa tape is also relatively affordable on Amazon. It’s awesome, and as a cyclist I’m wondering if my Tesa tape would work for this. Tesa is flame and waterproof, has awesome stickiness, and is sorta like hockey tape on steroids. Anyway, maybe try Tesa.
At 4:28 or so, the rim tape isn't being applied correctly. You have to pull pretty hard to stretch the tape while applying it. That way it will go down nicely into the channel. Most rim tapes are pretty good, but I've found that "Muc-Off" is particularly easy to stretch. You shouldn't have to follow it up with electrical tape. The process of putting in a tube to set it is good, but also unnecessary. Just pressurizing the tire will do exactly the same thing. 30 psi (or whatever) puts 30 psi against the tape, whether there's a tube there or not. The only reason you'd need a tube is if the tire won't hold pressure at all. At 6:57 when you use the "pokey thing" just insert it from the other side of the rim, where you can easily see the hole, instead of the rim side, where you can't! The weight of extra layers isn't the issue, it's the thickness. It just makes the process harder. It's probably why putting the tire on was more difficult, as the bead couldn't go as low into the now filled up channel. Finally, putting it on a truing stand rather than on the floor makes it really hard to apply the kind of stretchy pulling force you need. I'd go to the Muc-Off tape application video, TBH. In one video they use a truing stand, in one they don't. Not using one is easier in my experience.
Have to agree. There are better versions of rim tape that is somewhat stretchy. No bubbles and no electric tape needed. Also for the record, the tubeless version of vittoria tires are notorious for being hard to get on and off rims
Yes that's the way of doing it.dont push it in, hold it on tom unroll around 20cm and pull that in the rim, follow with your thumb in the grove as you go like that around the wheel. It's easier if you just put the rim between your legs when sitting down in a chair as wheel should not turn. No need for 2nd tape then. And start short before the valve 1-2 spokes, and end the same after valve. Thus you have double tape on valve whole
This! The majority of their videos from the perspective of a 'beginner mechanic' is great, but this one was a bit too riddled with errors. Note on Gorilla Tape at 4:12 yes, the worst part about it is the residue. Worth having in the toolkit as if you ding a rim, regular rim tape will 'lift' as it's rigid. Gorilla Tape conforms much better, so it's the only option if you have any decent ding in your rim and want to run it tubeless. Thickness and weight are not an issue (weight and thickness would be the same or even less than a layer of rim tape + electrical tape). Also at 2:58 it's not a 'rule' to tape at the opposite end of the valve. It's common for mechanics to tape 2-3 spoke holes from behind the valve hole, and overlap 2-3 spoke holes (so you essentially have 6 or so spoke holes with a double layer). This makes the tyre ever so slightly tighter at the valve, preventing air usually escaping from the source = easier to inflate/pop the tyre onto the bead.
Thanks guys! That proved really useful in fixing the previous owners interesting rim tape experiments. Pumped up first go, (to my relief.) I liked the truing stand idea, so I drilled a hole in a hardwood offcut, clamped it up in a vice, then used my rear axle bolt as a workaround for this job. Makes lining the tape up much easier. So thanks for that idea, too!
This is one of those bike jobs Seth’s Bike Hacks always complains that when you post a video, 5k people immediately tell you you’re doing it wrong, haha. Great video, though I did it with just Stan’s tape, stretched it as I applied it, two loops around the tube (they only had narrow tape at my shop), and seems to be holding. Whatever works. The electrical tape is a cool idea.
Syd and Macky I can't live without this repository of bike shop video tutorials. In this video, I recognized the same issues I have with the tubeless rim tape on carbon rims... thanks for making these videos
I don't mean it badly, but I'm the only one who think this is not a great tubeless tape job? Many bubbels, no tension when applying the main tape an too many layers of tapes? You should try a good tape like from muc-off. Apply one overlapping round with strong tension on the tape (start a few inches before the valve hole and end a few inches after the valve hole) and you are done! By the way your style of explanation is great and i'm looking forward for your channel!
Great video guys. The start point is still up for debate, as a mechanic, I do all my tape a few inches before the hole and end a few after. Also, a great tip, if you have time, is to put tubeless tape on install a tube inflate overnight remove the tube and tape will be super smooth. I do it at my shop all the time but maybe leave it for an hour and never have an issue always seal up nice and tight.
One trick I’ve found without using electrical tape is use the rim tape as you shown. Then install the tire but install a tube. Inflate to 30psi and leave to sit overnight. The tape job will come out looking professional. The issues I’ve had with electrical tape is too many layers of tape takes up the distance in the drop center of the rim. I run CushCore and I need every bit of space to get that tire on. Great video
I’ve always started 4-5 hinches (1 spoke hole past the the valve hole. When you get back around you go one spoke hole the other direction. This way there are two layers over the valve hole helping the valve stem seal better
Agree with some of the other posters. I use Stan’s tape, same probably for others. You MUST stretch the tape as you are applying it, then you don’t need electrical tape. You know you’re stretching it enough if the tape doesn’t bubble up over the spoke holes. Also on some rims (namely the Roval aluminum rims on my Specialized Levo) the tape WILL NOT stick well (the rim seems to have some kind of finish that resists mud and also tape sticking). You can solve this by using a 2-3in bit of gorilla tape to hold the starting end, so you can pull hard enough to stretch the the tape without it coming loose. Also, I have to disagree with one of the other posters, I think tape width is a bit of a preference, as long as it covers the spoke holes. I use same width as rim. I got a pro-built wheel the other day and the tape was the width of the middle channel, not the whole rim. I think as long as you stretch well and use good rim tape it just has to cover the holes. Having it the same width as the rim gives the tape additional purchase on the shoulders of the rim bead. My .02. Great channel!
I've found that tape that isn't as wide as the rim is more prone to getting the edges knocked loose by the tire bead when removing and installing tires.
I don't know if you are doing that little mistakes on purpose but they definitely show the most common mistakes that any one of us could make while we are trying to gain more expertise. So thank you for not editing them out, very helpful. All the best.
Thank you! 3rd video I watched on rim tape, but the 1st one to actually show applying the tape. I swear the others acted like the bead channel didn't exist. Or they chose easy rims to demonstrate on.
You guys are AWESOME! Thanks for the tip about using electrical tape over top of rim tape. Even with just a floor pump I was able to seat effectively and my tire is holding air. Thanks again!
I had a leaky tape job so I got on YT to figure out where I went wrong and found this vid. I decided to put one wrap pf electrical tape over the spoke holes and then put rim tape on top of, hoping this would give me a better chance of a perfect seal at each hole. It worked well. My tire lost pressure over the first night, but it kept the air in after that. Thanks for the idea! Oh I also switched to a valve that had a rubber cone shaped seal (I9 brand) that I believe might seal better than my previous valve. Also, rubbing some sealant on the edge of the tire before installing helps it slip on easier.
You both communicate the important points clearly, but it's still entertaining watching Syd doing it as a relative beginner and having fun - which is reassuring too. This is important, I assume many of us will be watching to learn a new maintenance task, this makes attempting something unfamiliar much less confronting. I hope this is a winning formula for you (and us), I can't wait to see more.
Love this different approach to tech videos, usually you have someone that knows what he/she’s doing. Seeing it from the point of view of someone who’s just learning is very interesting (and entertaining!)
Fun upload! Now, if you have a video on “the best way to clean tire sealant off of your dog, after she sits on a small spill”, that would be awesome! (Asking for the dog, because she can’t type. ;)
I loved it! You guys are my favorite people on youtube, srsly. I've never had a problem installing my rim tape, but I'll be watching this every time I need to just for a fun refresher.
Some tips that people may find helpful especially if it is a bit of a fight to get the tyres on the newly taped rim: 1 - If it is a new folded tyre take it out its packet, unfold it and get it round, you can then stretch the bead by putting a foot on the tyre bead and pulling the opposite side, do this and shuffle the tyre round through 180 degrees. 2 - when installing the tyre start opposite the valve and push the tyre bead into the channel in the middle of the rim - this will give you the greatest amount of slack to get that last awkward bit of tyre on. 3 - If the first side of the tyre is tight to fit (requires more than your fingers and thumbs to get it on) you can put sealant into the wheel once the second side is on, some bottles of sealant come with a little funnel that will allow filling through the valve (with the valve core removed) otherwise a syringe and a section of hose for bleeding brakes works really well. 4 - If your tight tyres wont seat (make that satisfying pop) get some liquid soap and dilute with water then squirt/rub this onto the rim & tyre all the way round. Any kind of soap will work, hand wash, dish soap, shower gel. Also don't miss the tip from Yankee Rider for heating the rim and rim tape - it's another good one.
You have to pull strong from the ring tape side with one hand while pushing with the thumb of the other hand. Take advantage of the rim tape flexibility to sketch it while you put it. Then apply a bit of heat with a hair drier and you'll get a perfect finish.
Having someone hold the wheel while you pull the tape tight and "stretch" it into the channel keeps things really clean and tight. Having them rotate it makes things go really fast. No need to do a little at a time making a huge mess with bubbles. This also eliminates the need for your electrical tape as you can do two layers rather quickly. I also start and stop over the valve core hole. This leaves the overlap (4 layers thick) where you're going to poke your hole, making things extra strong. Factory tape is also applied under tension, that's why it's so clean 😉
I just put the wheel between my crotch and sit on it just enough to keep it from spinning. I use the weight of my body (not full weight) so I don't have to use only my arm muscles to stretch the tape.
I’ve watched other how-to videos and by comparison this one was very easy to follow and very helpful for someone not mechanically inclined. Great job!!!
Nice job! The 1-minute recap is very professional and useful! How about totally getting off all old sealant from inner tire surfaces when it's been caked on for months? can never get it all off when redoing/swapping a tire (want to reuse that tire eventually) , have stopped trying.....
rim tape hack - pull the tape onto the rim (dont worry about bubbles) once in place put in a inner tube and pump, leave for a few hours remove tube and there you go a perfectly taped rim 👍
Huge congrats to Syd and Macky for bringing out great content that is not only informative but FUN to learn. Syd represents all of us mechanically challenged folks and her good natured enthusiasm and willingness to poke fun at herself is so welcomed after so many overly serious i.e. full of themselves streamers. Time to reactivate the Patreon account cause this is going to save money from going to the local shop.
I recommend using DT Swiss rim tape (4mm wider than internal width of rim) and do a double wrap. The way you do this is start on one side of the valve hole, wrap twice and finish on the opposite side of the valve hole. This way it is single ply around the hole to facilitate sealing the valve and it will be double everywhere else. You will not need any electrical tape or anything else and I guarantee it will hold air better and also facilitate seating the bead much easier.
I use gorilla tape . The 1 inch tape works great for my rim size. I put electrical tape first and then the gorilla tape over it to avoid the sticky residue from the tape . As with syd it was trial and error until I had permanent success . well done
I think you missed an important point when taping a wheel for tubeless and thats having a proper width of the tape. The tape needs to be cca 5mm wider than inner width of the rim. That means if your rim is 30mm inner diameter you should use 35mm wide tape. 33 is not enough to cover the rim fully from side to side and more than 35 will probably not fit. Important word here is "fully" as the tire when seated has to sit on the tape. If there is tape missing in the corners of the rim bed it will not seal. This has been most common source of frustration why the tubeless thing does not work that I came across. If you do this properly there is no need for that electrical tape and I would avoid it as it adds thickness to the rim bed and can make mounting and seating tires really unpleasantly hard. I even encountered a wheel with two layers of tape on which the tire would not seat in the bead at all not even with over 60 psi in them..
I liked that first video ( I enjoyed it AND pushed the like button ). Great job creating different content to complement the original channel. Thanks guys!
I love the added trick of adding electrical tape over rim tape as an added barrier and clean looking finish, I would like to add that if you want a smoother initial application of tubeless tape, Stans, Slime, DT swiss, ect, all benefit from being installed with tension as it helps with adhesion on the rim, and will leave a smooth application. as for Gorilla and Duct Tape, they're not technically air tight, as they're perforated for easy tearing so they require sealant to seal them up and can slowly leach moisture into the rim. I apply about 2-3 spoke widths initially then start to apply tension ( you will hear it strain) to the tape and turn the wheel away from me, once the wheel makes the first 1/8-1/4 rotation you can move your hand forward and tension in 1/8th rotation sections. Give this a try next time and see how it goes for you. Over all love this tutorial and great information for basic mechanical skill work! Keep up the amazing job!
ha ha! Syd is the best! love the first video :) good job Syd! just did my first rim tape a few months ago with success (no electrical tape though, might try that next time)!
I have a nick in the factory rim tape in-between spoke holes. I hate to remove that stuff because it leave glue so hard to get off I have to burn it off with a heat gun. I tried your electric tape hack and it sealed hopefully it will hold. It looked really good so I have high hopes
One thing we felt wasn't clear in the video: you want to press the tape down into the center of the rim so that it isn't "floating" above the rim channel.
That wasnt clear in another video I'd watched either, it made sense that you would but people didn't seem to, glad I came to the comments after watching this one ha.
Good video. I also liked the chapter breaks. I spent the past year learning how to apply rim tape and one thing I noticed was that you did not mention was how wide of a rim tape to use. I never did know about the electrical tape over the rim tape. I'll have to remember that one.
Hmmm. We've never tried that and I would assume that it's not quite air tight enough, but who knows 🤷♀️ worth a try if you can't find anything else. Best bet in that situation though would probably be to find some kind of tape that doesn't stretch (maybe coaches tape?) and then cover it with electrical tape (which is airtight but stretches).
I was out riding when this was posted. Got the notification mid-climb and tried to watch it right away (perfect excuse to take a break, amirite?!), but reception in the mountains is crap 😢 back home. About to take a shower and excited to watch it right after! 🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼
Headset overhaul vid would be useful for the home mechanics out there. It’s an easy, often needed service yet I see many home mechanics mess it up. Installing new disc brake pads/ hyperextending and cleaning caliper pistons would be a useful vid too. Another easy service requiring minimal tools that can really improve brake performance between bleeds.
I feel like Syd is not a seasoned expert (No offence) which I think connects better with the amateurs amongst us, me included definitely. A lot of fun to watch also....
Some Roval wheels come with plastic buttons with o rings that go in the spoke holes, no tape needed, and if you have to work on a spoke just pull out one plug, fix the spoke, replace the plug, the plugs may be lighter, but they sure are easy to use, and get use to..
Can I add one suggestion....Videos are very helpful and great by the way. I made a rookie mistake. I started taping as you demonstrated and realized my valve stem was not in this. Make sure to tell folks to make sure the valve stem is in BEFORE you start taping.
Nice job. Tubeless is dangerous as evidenced by drawing blood. You didn’t mention why you start opposite the valve hole? I’ve always started 6 inches past the valve hole and then ended up with a double wrap over the hole. Also the electrical tape addition is a nice idea. Thanks. Enjoyed your first video.
Thanks for your great informative fun vlog, I`ve been cycling all my life but now with a half good gravel bike (Norco Search A1) I am trying to do more things myself. My sealant needs replacing soon on my tubeless wheels (Hunt 4 season Gravel x wide. with Specialized Pathfinder pro 700x42 tyres. ) should I also replace the tape on the wheels ? at the moment the tyres stay well inflated but it has been about 5 months in some hot weather since the last bike service when they were looked at. Thanks guys.
Spot on video. Muc Off tape is our shop’s weapon of choice for tubeless. It’s adhesive is better than Stan’s imho. We also typically install a tube/tire after applying tape to help remove bubbles and to help tape adhesive to setup. Tube stays in for 24 hours then we remove and install valve/ add sealant. You get ride of the bubbles and have a pro tape job.
I use Gorilla Tape, and it is a paint to remove all the adhesive if you ever have to take it off and reapply it. Ask me how I know. I broke 4 spokes on the same wheel in 6 months. Got real good at cleaning and reapplying rim tape.
Good stuff - I too use the rag technique to push it down but I always use DTSwiss Rim Tape as it’s less “sheer” than Stans Or Joe’s so I don’t have the bubbling as much and don’t need to use electrical tape afterwards ... you should check it out.
Interesting take with the electrical tape. I've ran DT swiss tape and Mucoff tape, two times around the wheel with good luck so far. I just grab a lawn chair and sit on the patio, throw a towel on the ground, stand the wheel on the towel and hold it between my legs as I wrap the tape around. haha
Never tried that, would be interested to see if it worked. It would need to be able to withstand a certain amount of pressure from the air inside the tires...
I'm tempted to try it...these gasket sealants are used to aid in sealing engine car components like car radiator hoses and thermostat so I would imagine that high pressure and high temperature concerns are no issue. The only reason I would like to try it is to avoid re-taping and of course curiousity.
Interesting approach with the extra layer of electrical tape. I might try that. My rear wheel just started leaking at the valve stem and several spoke holes. I tightened the valve, put in fresh sealant, and problem solved - NOT! It appeared to be "sealed" while in the garage, but after a 3 hr ride, the PSI went from 30 to 15! Looking at the rim tape I see no obvious holes. In my garage, soapy water on the rim reveals no leaks, but out riding it leaks. And after ride the spoke holes and valve stem show leaks with the soapy water. So frustrating.
Just discovered this channel and i must say your instructions are very intuitive and easy to follow! great job guys!! Im trying to find a sealant that is easy to work with and doesn't get all clumped up inside the tire. What is your favorite sealant to use? im sure your sponsored by someone and they give you sealant but still want to know what you guys think..? Im running non Cushcore tire inserts. Some sealant doesn't work well with inserts
We've been using SLIME's tubeless sealant for the last few years and like it, but they no longer make it. We're planning to try Orange Seal now as we know lots of people who have had good success with it. bit.ly/2Iyp7dC
If it's a tape that tears easily like gorilla tape or duct tape, you can just tear it narrower as you start pulling it off the roll and that's easy. If it isn't a kind t tears easily (normal rim tape) you *could* trim it, but it's probably not worth the effort and would be a lot easier to just buy narrower tape...
Sid and Macky, I've got a question about tires and seating them properly. Will any rips in rim tape affect the way a tire seats itself and can causes it to wobble? I'm asking because my tape on the rear rim has some rips near the wall of the rim from a tire lever. My older tube only tire will seat perfectly and will be true. But my RaceKing, which can seat true on the front rim, cannot on the rear rim.. So my old tire is true on both rims, but my RaceKing can only seat well on my front rim, of which there were no rips (that I know of).
That shouldn't affect the tire sitting true. The only possibility is that the bead of the tire is catching on the tears which is keeping it from seating fully....
@@sydfixesbikes I'll double check the rim and see if I can smooth out any tears I see. The ones I saw a while back when this started happening were small tears, again from a tire lever I used to take off the tire (which I've grown to not like using unless I have to LOL. I've also learned how to take the tire off without the lever).
Freakin' killed it you guys! I really dig the second channel. If youre going to do the quick recap, you might start with that so we have a sense of direction from the start.
That generally just spins the sealant to the center of the tire and doesn't fully coat the inside. That's why riding is the best option (bumps, turns, stopping all help get the sealant all over the inside) and the sealant dance is the next best option.
I absolutely love your videos you two! You both have a wonderful video personality that makes them fun to watch. The 1 minute recap is a great way to help “set” the new knowledge in for people like me with short memories. Syd you are an absolute gem of a lady and Mackie (spelling?) you have a great attitude as a mentor/ instructor. Keep the videos coming. They are greatly appreciated.
Cheers for the tip with the insulating tape I did my son's no tube less rims and the rear one would hold air but would loose 10psi over a few days drove me mad.. Anyway I've cleaned it down taped the tape and it's now holding air fine cheers
Ok, I always start one spoke before the valve hole, and go to one spoke after the hole, so the bung is double thick. What is the rationale behind the opposite side approach? Also, I agree that Gorilla tape leaves a mess, but if you use a degreaser to clean the rim it seems to come off pretty easily. Also, I always use the compressed to set the bead first, then go back and add the sealant through the valve with the core out. Not sure if that is wrong or not, but a lot neater.
We've done both, but generally prefer only one layer over the hole to make putting the valve in a bit easier. In terms of putting sealant on afterwards, that works great, but requires an extra step and is harder to see how much is in there (unless you're using a syringe with measurements) so we usually just add as we're installing the tire...
Looking forward to this. I've been wanting to do more of my own stuff, and with how you guys explain things I think this new channel will be more helpful than others I have tried watching.
I did it in the opposite way..I used electrical tap first then a layer of gorilla tape on top. So far holding air..we'll see how long it lasts. Glad to see racers are using g electrical tape. Makes me feel better about it 😅
Oh Come on! Literally yesterday I notice my wheel is losing air because of a bad tape, and you guys decide to launch a new channel to teach me how to fix that? Thank you awesome! BUT you skimmed over my most pressing question ... How on earth do I clean the mess from the old tape?
Use soap, water and a scrub brush and then the pokey tool/flathead screwdriver to scratch the rest off. It's a pain and time-consuming, but worth doing!
Psyched to see this series! Just starting home mechanic stuff so this is really nice to know. Plus the reasoning is also very useful to know why we do things.
I wouldn't put electrical tape or any other kind of tape on tap of the tubeless tape for the same reason you explained at the beginning. The electrical tape won't hold the pressure and eventually you'll have to redo the whole thing again. Whether you're applying a 2nd layer is because you don't trust the 1st one; as a result, you better apply a 2nd layer of hte same tubeless tape. But now here is my tip-trick come along !! Apply the 1st layer use the rag as you did to get rid of most bubbles then put the tire on and the tube too (yes the tube !!) Inflate the tube until the tire pops up into the bed, keep inflating up to the psi's for the tire is supposed to be with a tube. Let it be for 5 - 10 min and remove the tire and tube, with this process you get rid of the bubbles and attach the tape perfectly onto the rim surface all along. If you need apply the 2nd layer and repeat the same previous process but start the taping at the opposite side where you started the 1st layer so you don't have 2 beginnings at the same spot. Important: When removing the tube in the 2nd round just break one bed of the tire and take the tube off through that side, then put the tubeless valve on and tight the stem nut as required. Put the tire back on and inflate until both beds get on the rim (loud pop sound). Finally, remove valve core and inject the sealant through the steam at floor position (never on top), put the core back in and inflate to tubeless regular pressure + 5-10 psi's more and close the valve. Move around the tire to spread the sealant evenly inside the tire and the put the tire sidewides on a bucket or box for 10 min, then repeat the shaking and moving around and put it back on the bucket but on other side for 5-10 min Actually, I'll leave standing overnight after all this process to verify it holds the pressure and no major sealant leakage happened; reduce pressure to your preference. It's ok if sealant goes through tire walls in some cases (some tires have porous where the sealant shows up as little drops onto the walls I've done this procedure for years for all my bikes (road, gravel, MTB, and Fat) and never ever I had a problem or failure with the setup and no messy sealant all over 👍
Great video. I'm very new to mountain biking but doing my own maintenance is one thing that I will be striving for. So I see a lot of time spent with you guys in the future. Keep up the great videos
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If you tension the rim tape more as you apply it you won't have the bubbles and you won't need the electrical tape at all. It not a weight issue, it's a technique issue. Also, you should overlap from the valve hole. I also recommend heating the tip of the sharp tool for a clean hole. Great video!
Stans rim tape installation isntructions are to overlap opposite the valve at the rim's welded joint. But you make a good point that Syd should've put more tension on the rim tape and skipped the electrical tape shenanigans.
Yeah I agree. I just installed rim tape and used gorilla tape, but it was buttery smooth without any bubbles. Really just a technique issue. But the electrical tape does remedy for any minor leaks I think many people will face. So it’s a good idea that’s new to me.
interesting. what did the heating do to clean hole?
overlap from the valve hole? why?
@@李克诚加拿大 It melts away (instead of a rip), so there's a better chance that it doesn't rip later on
One trick I've found is to apply the tape, then put a tire and tube on the wheel and air up the tube. Leave the tube on for a bit to set. It pushes evenly on the tape and pushes the bubbles out. Remove tire and tube and tape will be smooth.
How much do you charge for spittin’ more faxx??
Just putting air in the tire without a tube will apply pressure all along the rim tape. Thats how pressure works.
@@ultrastoat3298 respectfully disagree; once the spoke hole is sealed, air has no incentive to finish pushing the tape down across the width of the rim
@@stephenerickson8107 Whats the incentive for the tap to lift?
@@ultrastoat3298 You are correct in the sense that inflating without a tube doesn't lift tape off the rim. But it also doesn't remove voids that were left over from the hand-application of tape. The point of inflating with the tube is that the tube physically pushes the tape into the rim and removes voids. If you inflate without the tube, air pressure stays exactly equal on both sides of the unstuck tape, and the voids remain.
I watched this vid twice did the exact same thing they did and was shocked how easy this was to go tubeless. Everyone thinking about going tubeless just follow these steps. THEY WORK!!!!
I’ve encountered a similar issue with purpose made rim tape. When I chatted with a mechanic about it, he suggested using a heat gun/hair dryer to shrink fit after application. I’ve been doing it ever since, it works great. I’m pretty positive that’s what they do at the factory because it looks exactly like a factory finish when done. Doesn’t have the added durability of double layering like electrical, but probably worth trying for those of us doing gravel/road/cx tubeless where the pounding isn’t quite as severe!
That's a great tip, we'll have to try it!
Yep
Thanks for the tip. I’m gonna try it today at the shop.
Does this also help to push the tape into the centre channel of the rim?
On the Trail MTB it basically tensions/shortens the tape, so (within reason) it’ll help suck the tape into all the crevasses/channels of your rim bed
Your attitude and energy is just infectious. I can't wait to see more
This worked for me. My four year old 35 MM IR MTB wheel had a slow leak. Went soft in a day. So pulled the tire, cleaned the rim, and tapped with Stan's Tubeless Tape. This was my first time putting on tubeless tape. Followed other video instructions. Pulled hard on tape as installed, BUT it did not cover spoke holes well. Had bubbles. Pushed down the tape and hoped that air pressure would solve. Nope. Went completely flat in less than 2 hours. Watched Syd install her tape. Looked terrible on the initial tubeless tape (just like mine). Then she added the electrical tape and made it look a LOT better. So I removed my botched tubeless tape and started over. Laid down new tubeless tape (Stan's). It looked better than first time, but still not great (lots of air pockets). Then I wrapped 3 layers of electrical tape. One strip in middle over the indent groove and spoke holes to push/hold down the tubeless tape, one strip on right side (near outer edge), and one strip on left side. Filled it up. 2 days later it still held air (did go slightly soft). Took out for a 90 minute ride. Air held. It was NOT pretty, but this "practical" method worked for me. Thanks Syd and Macky.
I haven’t read all the comments here, but something that should be mentioned in all of this, that many people are unaware of, is that there are varying degrees of electrical tape. 3M makes good stuff and at numerous thicknesses. As a auto mechanic I love using Tesa tape, which is extremely quality electrical tape used by German and European auto manufacturers. Tesa tape is also relatively affordable on Amazon. It’s awesome, and as a cyclist I’m wondering if my Tesa tape would work for this. Tesa is flame and waterproof, has awesome stickiness, and is sorta like hockey tape on steroids. Anyway, maybe try Tesa.
At 4:28 or so, the rim tape isn't being applied correctly. You have to pull pretty hard to stretch the tape while applying it. That way it will go down nicely into the channel. Most rim tapes are pretty good, but I've found that "Muc-Off" is particularly easy to stretch. You shouldn't have to follow it up with electrical tape. The process of putting in a tube to set it is good, but also unnecessary. Just pressurizing the tire will do exactly the same thing. 30 psi (or whatever) puts 30 psi against the tape, whether there's a tube there or not. The only reason you'd need a tube is if the tire won't hold pressure at all. At 6:57 when you use the "pokey thing" just insert it from the other side of the rim, where you can easily see the hole, instead of the rim side, where you can't! The weight of extra layers isn't the issue, it's the thickness. It just makes the process harder. It's probably why putting the tire on was more difficult, as the bead couldn't go as low into the now filled up channel.
Finally, putting it on a truing stand rather than on the floor makes it really hard to apply the kind of stretchy pulling force you need. I'd go to the Muc-Off tape application video, TBH. In one video they use a truing stand, in one they don't. Not using one is easier in my experience.
Exactly they missed THE MOST VITAL part of rim taping. Kind of painful to watch.
Have to agree. There are better versions of rim tape that is somewhat stretchy. No bubbles and no electric tape needed.
Also for the record, the tubeless version of vittoria tires are notorious for being hard to get on and off rims
@@doncrescas Yeah, most tires shouldn't let you just pop them on without a lever. The bead should be tight to ensure a good seal.
Yes that's the way of doing it.dont push it in, hold it on tom unroll around 20cm and pull that in the rim, follow with your thumb in the grove as you go like that around the wheel. It's easier if you just put the rim between your legs when sitting down in a chair as wheel should not turn. No need for 2nd tape then.
And start short before the valve 1-2 spokes, and end the same after valve. Thus you have double tape on valve whole
This! The majority of their videos from the perspective of a 'beginner mechanic' is great, but this one was a bit too riddled with errors.
Note on Gorilla Tape at 4:12 yes, the worst part about it is the residue. Worth having in the toolkit as if you ding a rim, regular rim tape will 'lift' as it's rigid. Gorilla Tape conforms much better, so it's the only option if you have any decent ding in your rim and want to run it tubeless. Thickness and weight are not an issue (weight and thickness would be the same or even less than a layer of rim tape + electrical tape).
Also at 2:58 it's not a 'rule' to tape at the opposite end of the valve. It's common for mechanics to tape 2-3 spoke holes from behind the valve hole, and overlap 2-3 spoke holes (so you essentially have 6 or so spoke holes with a double layer). This makes the tyre ever so slightly tighter at the valve, preventing air usually escaping from the source = easier to inflate/pop the tyre onto the bead.
Thanks guys! That proved really useful in fixing the previous owners interesting rim tape experiments. Pumped up first go, (to my relief.)
I liked the truing stand idea, so I drilled a hole in a hardwood offcut, clamped it up in a vice, then used my rear axle bolt as a workaround for this job. Makes lining the tape up much easier. So thanks for that idea, too!
This is one of those bike jobs Seth’s Bike Hacks always complains that when you post a video, 5k people immediately tell you you’re doing it wrong, haha. Great video, though I did it with just Stan’s tape, stretched it as I applied it, two loops around the tube (they only had narrow tape at my shop), and seems to be holding. Whatever works. The electrical tape is a cool idea.
Syd and Macky I can't live without this repository of bike shop video tutorials. In this video, I recognized the same issues I have with the tubeless rim tape on carbon rims... thanks for making these videos
I don't mean it badly, but I'm the only one who think this is not a great tubeless tape job? Many bubbels, no tension when applying the main tape an too many layers of tapes? You should try a good tape like from muc-off. Apply one overlapping round with strong tension on the tape (start a few inches before the valve hole and end a few inches after the valve hole) and you are done!
By the way your style of explanation is great and i'm looking forward for your channel!
I was thinking,this the worst tape job I have ever seen. I would not let them tape my wheels.
You ain't alone. A lot of us have been biking for awhile and cant do some of the basics... this is cool, thanks guys
Great video guys. The start point is still up for debate, as a mechanic, I do all my tape a few inches before the hole and end a few after. Also, a great tip, if you have time, is to put tubeless tape on install a tube inflate overnight remove the tube and tape will be super smooth. I do it at my shop all the time but maybe leave it for an hour and never have an issue always seal up nice and tight.
Yep, always where I start. One spike hole past the valve hole. Then there are two layers sealing the valve stem
@@jfkusa123 Yeah depending on spoke count for me but it is normally a few inches of overlap from the valve hole
One trick I’ve found without using electrical tape is use the rim tape as you shown. Then install the tire but install a tube. Inflate to 30psi and leave to sit overnight. The tape job will come out looking professional. The issues I’ve had with electrical tape is too many layers of tape takes up the distance in the drop center of the rim. I run CushCore and I need every bit of space to get that tire on. Great video
Great tip!
I’ve always started 4-5 hinches (1 spoke hole past the the valve hole. When you get back around you go one spoke hole the other direction. This way there are two layers over the valve hole helping the valve stem seal better
This is how I do it as well, two layers over the valve hole. Would love to know the thought process behind starting opposite the valve hole...
@@fulltrucker I think it's so there are no joins nearest to the valve hole?
@@fulltrucker I think it might be so that the wheel is better balanced
@@jacobkeller29 Good point
Agree with some of the other posters. I use Stan’s tape, same probably for others. You MUST stretch the tape as you are applying it, then you don’t need electrical tape. You know you’re stretching it enough if the tape doesn’t bubble up over the spoke holes. Also on some rims (namely the Roval aluminum rims on my Specialized Levo) the tape WILL NOT stick well (the rim seems to have some kind of finish that resists mud and also tape sticking). You can solve this by using a 2-3in bit of gorilla tape to hold the starting end, so you can pull hard enough to stretch the the tape without it coming loose. Also, I have to disagree with one of the other posters, I think tape width is a bit of a preference, as long as it covers the spoke holes. I use same width as rim. I got a pro-built wheel the other day and the tape was the width of the middle channel, not the whole rim. I think as long as you stretch well and use good rim tape it just has to cover the holes. Having it the same width as the rim gives the tape additional purchase on the shoulders of the rim bead. My .02. Great channel!
I've found that tape that isn't as wide as the rim is more prone to getting the edges knocked loose by the tire bead when removing and installing tires.
This is awesome! Great work you guys
Thanks guys!
I don't know if you are doing that little mistakes on purpose but they definitely show the most common mistakes that any one of us could make while we are trying to gain more expertise. So thank you for not editing them out, very helpful. All the best.
Great idea for a channel. Like that the videos are short, to-the-point and with a little humor!
Thank you! 3rd video I watched on rim tape, but the 1st one to actually show applying the tape. I swear the others acted like the bead channel didn't exist. Or they chose easy rims to demonstrate on.
You guys are AWESOME! Thanks for the tip about using electrical tape over top of rim tape. Even with just a floor pump I was able to seat effectively and my tire is holding air. Thanks again!
I had a leaky tape job so I got on YT to figure out where I went wrong and found this vid. I decided to put one wrap pf electrical tape over the spoke holes and then put rim tape on top of, hoping this would give me a better chance of a perfect seal at each hole. It worked well. My tire lost pressure over the first night, but it kept the air in after that. Thanks for the idea! Oh I also switched to a valve that had a rubber cone shaped seal (I9 brand) that I believe might seal better than my previous valve. Also, rubbing some sealant on the edge of the tire before installing helps it slip on easier.
You both communicate the important points clearly, but it's still entertaining watching Syd doing it as a relative beginner and having fun - which is reassuring too. This is important, I assume many of us will be watching to learn a new maintenance task, this makes attempting something unfamiliar much less confronting. I hope this is a winning formula for you (and us), I can't wait to see more.
The 1 minute recap is genius! Great work guys. Super entertaining and useful.
Love this different approach to tech videos, usually you have someone that knows what he/she’s doing. Seeing it from the point of view of someone who’s just learning is very interesting (and entertaining!)
Fun upload! Now, if you have a video on “the best way to clean tire sealant off of your dog, after she sits on a small spill”, that would be awesome! (Asking for the dog, because she can’t type. ;)
😂😂🤣
I loved it! You guys are my favorite people on youtube, srsly. I've never had a problem installing my rim tape, but I'll be watching this every time I need to just for a fun refresher.
Aw, shucks 😊
Some tips that people may find helpful especially if it is a bit of a fight to get the tyres on the newly taped rim:
1 - If it is a new folded tyre take it out its packet, unfold it and get it round, you can then stretch the bead by putting a foot on the tyre bead and pulling the opposite side, do this and shuffle the tyre round through 180 degrees.
2 - when installing the tyre start opposite the valve and push the tyre bead into the channel in the middle of the rim - this will give you the greatest amount of slack to get that last awkward bit of tyre on.
3 - If the first side of the tyre is tight to fit (requires more than your fingers and thumbs to get it on) you can put sealant into the wheel once the second side is on, some bottles of sealant come with a little funnel that will allow filling through the valve (with the valve core removed) otherwise a syringe and a section of hose for bleeding brakes works really well.
4 - If your tight tyres wont seat (make that satisfying pop) get some liquid soap and dilute with water then squirt/rub this onto the rim & tyre all the way round. Any kind of soap will work, hand wash, dish soap, shower gel.
Also don't miss the tip from Yankee Rider for heating the rim and rim tape - it's another good one.
You have to pull strong from the ring tape side with one hand while pushing with the thumb of the other hand. Take advantage of the rim tape flexibility to sketch it while you put it. Then apply a bit of heat with a hair drier and you'll get a perfect finish.
The more wheels I've converted to tubeless, the more time I spend doing it super clean. I've learned this is quite an important step.
Having someone hold the wheel while you pull the tape tight and "stretch" it into the channel keeps things really clean and tight. Having them rotate it makes things go really fast. No need to do a little at a time making a huge mess with bubbles. This also eliminates the need for your electrical tape as you can do two layers rather quickly.
I also start and stop over the valve core hole. This leaves the overlap (4 layers thick) where you're going to poke your hole, making things extra strong.
Factory tape is also applied under tension, that's why it's so clean 😉
I just put the wheel between my crotch and sit on it just enough to keep it from spinning. I use the weight of my body (not full weight) so I don't have to use only my arm muscles to stretch the tape.
Hi... I have a question please. Can I use an inner tube if I wanted to by-pass the tape procedure? Thank you
I’ve watched other how-to videos and by comparison this one was very easy to follow and very helpful for someone not mechanically inclined. Great job!!!
Nice job! The 1-minute recap is very professional and useful! How about totally getting off all old sealant from inner tire surfaces when it's been caked on for months? can never get it all off when redoing/swapping a tire (want to reuse that tire eventually) , have stopped trying.....
I had some succes with goo gone, friction and baking the tire In the sun
rim tape hack - pull the tape onto the rim (dont worry about bubbles) once in place put in a inner tube and pump, leave for a few hours remove tube
and there you go a perfectly taped rim 👍
Huge congrats to Syd and Macky for bringing out great content that is not only informative but FUN to learn. Syd represents all of us mechanically challenged folks and her good natured enthusiasm and willingness to poke fun at herself is so welcomed after so many overly serious i.e. full of themselves streamers. Time to reactivate the Patreon account cause this is going to save money from going to the local shop.
I recommend using DT Swiss rim tape (4mm wider than internal width of rim) and do a double wrap. The way you do this is start on one side of the valve hole, wrap twice and finish on the opposite side of the valve hole. This way it is single ply around the hole to facilitate sealing the valve and it will be double everywhere else. You will not need any electrical tape or anything else and I guarantee it will hold air better and also facilitate seating the bead much easier.
I use gorilla tape . The 1 inch tape works great for my rim size. I put electrical tape first and then the gorilla tape over it to avoid the sticky residue from the tape . As with syd it was trial and error until I had permanent success . well done
I think you missed an important point when taping a wheel for tubeless and thats having a proper width of the tape. The tape needs to be cca 5mm wider than inner width of the rim. That means if your rim is 30mm inner diameter you should use 35mm wide tape. 33 is not enough to cover the rim fully from side to side and more than 35 will probably not fit. Important word here is "fully" as the tire when seated has to sit on the tape. If there is tape missing in the corners of the rim bed it will not seal. This has been most common source of frustration why the tubeless thing does not work that I came across. If you do this properly there is no need for that electrical tape and I would avoid it as it adds thickness to the rim bed and can make mounting and seating tires really unpleasantly hard. I even encountered a wheel with two layers of tape on which the tire would not seat in the bead at all not even with over 60 psi in them..
Really helpful and entertaining! Mate, you're a lucky guy!
I liked that first video ( I enjoyed it AND pushed the like button ). Great job creating different content to complement the original channel. Thanks guys!
Great video thank you. Any videos on how to replace broken spoke?
Here you go: th-cam.com/video/mghhmbHZ_jo/w-d-xo.html
I love the added trick of adding electrical tape over rim tape as an added barrier and clean looking finish, I would like to add that if you want a smoother initial application of tubeless tape, Stans, Slime, DT swiss, ect, all benefit from being installed with tension as it helps with adhesion on the rim, and will leave a smooth application. as for Gorilla and Duct Tape, they're not technically air tight, as they're perforated for easy tearing so they require sealant to seal them up and can slowly leach moisture into the rim.
I apply about 2-3 spoke widths initially then start to apply tension ( you will hear it strain) to the tape and turn the wheel away from me, once the wheel makes the first 1/8-1/4 rotation you can move your hand forward and tension in 1/8th rotation sections. Give this a try next time and see how it goes for you. Over all love this tutorial and great information for basic mechanical skill work! Keep up the amazing job!
Great tips!
ha ha! Syd is the best! love the first video :) good job Syd! just did my first rim tape a few months ago with success (no electrical tape though, might try that next time)!
I have a nick in the factory rim tape in-between spoke holes. I hate to remove that stuff because it leave glue so hard to get off I have to burn it off with a heat gun. I tried your electric tape hack and it sealed hopefully it will hold. It looked really good so I have high hopes
One thing we felt wasn't clear in the video: you want to press the tape down into the center of the rim so that it isn't "floating" above the rim channel.
That wasnt clear in another video I'd watched either, it made sense that you would but people didn't seem to, glad I came to the comments after watching this one ha.
Good video. I also liked the chapter breaks. I spent the past year learning how to apply rim tape and one thing I noticed was that you did not mention was how wide of a rim tape to use. I never did know about the electrical tape over the rim tape. I'll have to remember that one.
I've heard can uses coaches tape as well. What's your take on that. I can't find any of the tape in my country
Hmmm. We've never tried that and I would assume that it's not quite air tight enough, but who knows 🤷♀️ worth a try if you can't find anything else.
Best bet in that situation though would probably be to find some kind of tape that doesn't stretch (maybe coaches tape?) and then cover it with electrical tape (which is airtight but stretches).
That's an interesting idea. I don't think so, but who knows 🤷♀️
what is the your recommended method of cleaning? best soap, solvent, etc?
th-cam.com/video/RBoE_OO9uAA/w-d-xo.html
I was out riding when this was posted. Got the notification mid-climb and tried to watch it right away (perfect excuse to take a break, amirite?!), but reception in the mountains is crap 😢 back home. About to take a shower and excited to watch it right after! 🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼
Thanks, I'm now tubeless thanks to you. I put a 2.5 maxxis minion DHF up front, and a DHR2 in the back, 2.4.
Headset overhaul vid would be useful for the home mechanics out there. It’s an easy, often needed service yet I see many home mechanics mess it up.
Installing new disc brake pads/ hyperextending and cleaning caliper pistons would be a useful vid too. Another easy service requiring minimal tools that can really improve brake performance between bleeds.
I feel like Syd is not a seasoned expert (No offence) which I think connects better with the amateurs amongst us, me included definitely. A lot of fun to watch also....
Some Roval wheels come with plastic buttons with o rings that go in the spoke holes, no tape needed, and if you have to work on a spoke just pull out one plug, fix the spoke, replace the plug, the plugs may be lighter, but they sure are easy to use, and get use to..
Can I add one suggestion....Videos are very helpful and great by the way. I made a rookie mistake. I started taping as you demonstrated and realized my valve stem was not in this. Make sure to tell folks to make sure the valve stem is in BEFORE you start taping.
Actually, you want to install the valve stem afterwards.
Great video! I find poking the hole outward from the valve hole then going from the other side helps line things up nicely
I love what y'all are doing with this channel!!!!!
Nice job. Tubeless is dangerous as evidenced by drawing blood. You didn’t mention why you start opposite the valve hole? I’ve always started 6 inches past the valve hole and then ended up with a double wrap over the hole. Also the electrical tape addition is a nice idea. Thanks. Enjoyed your first video.
We prefer not having double rim tape over the hole to make it a bit easier to get the valve stem in. But it doesn't really matter 😁
Thanks for your great informative fun vlog, I`ve been cycling all my life but now with a half good gravel bike (Norco Search A1) I am trying to do more things myself. My sealant needs replacing soon on my tubeless wheels (Hunt 4 season Gravel x wide. with Specialized Pathfinder pro 700x42 tyres. ) should I also replace the tape on the wheels ? at the moment the tyres stay well inflated but it has been about 5 months in some hot weather since the last bike service when they were looked at. Thanks guys.
Nope, no need to replace the tape unless it isn't holding air!
@@sydfixesbikes That`s great, thanks for the quick response.
congrats on the new channel!
I just love your videos. You are soooo down to earth and practical. Keep it rolling!
Loving the new channel
Great video, I really like the 1 minute summary at the end.
Spot on video.
Muc Off tape is our shop’s weapon of choice for tubeless. It’s adhesive is better than Stan’s imho.
We also typically install a tube/tire after applying tape to help remove bubbles and to help tape adhesive to setup. Tube stays in for 24 hours then we remove and install valve/ add sealant. You get ride of the bubbles and have a pro tape job.
That's a great tip!
Luv this. You are both so authentic and the commentary and tips are brilliant!! Thank you.
I wish this was up a few weeks ago when I set up tubeless for the first time. great video I'm looking forward to more
I use Gorilla Tape, and it is a paint to remove all the adhesive if you ever have to take it off and reapply it. Ask me how I know. I broke 4 spokes on the same wheel in 6 months. Got real good at cleaning and reapplying rim tape.
Good stuff - I too use the rag technique to push it down but I always use DTSwiss Rim Tape as it’s less “sheer” than Stans Or Joe’s so I don’t have the bubbling as much and don’t need to use electrical tape afterwards ... you should check it out.
Interesting take with the electrical tape. I've ran DT swiss tape and Mucoff tape, two times around the wheel with good luck so far. I just grab a lawn chair and sit on the patio, throw a towel on the ground, stand the wheel on the towel and hold it between my legs as I wrap the tape around. haha
Yup, that's usually how we do it too, but for the video figured the truing stand was better...
What about adding gasket sealant (bought at repair car shops) to the rim holes instead of tape around the wheel?
Never tried that, would be interested to see if it worked. It would need to be able to withstand a certain amount of pressure from the air inside the tires...
I'm tempted to try it...these gasket sealants are used to aid in sealing engine car components like car radiator hoses and thermostat so I would imagine that high pressure and high temperature concerns are no issue. The only reason I would like to try it is to avoid re-taping and of course curiousity.
Interesting approach with the extra layer of electrical tape. I might try that. My rear wheel just started leaking at the valve stem and several spoke holes. I tightened the valve, put in fresh sealant, and problem solved - NOT! It appeared to be "sealed" while in the garage, but after a 3 hr ride, the PSI went from 30 to 15! Looking at the rim tape I see no obvious holes. In my garage, soapy water on the rim reveals no leaks, but out riding it leaks. And after ride the spoke holes and valve stem show leaks with the soapy water. So frustrating.
Just discovered this channel and i must say your instructions are very intuitive and easy to follow! great job guys!! Im trying to find a sealant that is easy to work with and doesn't get all clumped up inside the tire. What is your favorite sealant to use? im sure your sponsored by someone and they give you sealant but still want to know what you guys think..? Im running non Cushcore tire inserts. Some sealant doesn't work well with inserts
We've been using SLIME's tubeless sealant for the last few years and like it, but they no longer make it. We're planning to try Orange Seal now as we know lots of people who have had good success with it. bit.ly/2Iyp7dC
If tape you use is wider than the rim, should you trim it or get new tape?
If it's a tape that tears easily like gorilla tape or duct tape, you can just tear it narrower as you start pulling it off the roll and that's easy. If it isn't a kind t tears easily (normal rim tape) you *could* trim it, but it's probably not worth the effort and would be a lot easier to just buy narrower tape...
Electrical tape should go just one layer over the holes(groove)then goes the tubeless tape right?
Nope, the opposite. Tubeless tape first, then electrical to finish it off nicely.
Cool channel! This is really funny for those of us home wrenches who love to work on our bikes...More power to you guys!
So helpful ! and the 1 min recap summary at the end is super idea. thanks ✌️
Sid and Macky, I've got a question about tires and seating them properly. Will any rips in rim tape affect the way a tire seats itself and can causes it to wobble? I'm asking because my tape on the rear rim has some rips near the wall of the rim from a tire lever. My older tube only tire will seat perfectly and will be true. But my RaceKing, which can seat true on the front rim, cannot on the rear rim.. So my old tire is true on both rims, but my RaceKing can only seat well on my front rim, of which there were no rips (that I know of).
That shouldn't affect the tire sitting true. The only possibility is that the bead of the tire is catching on the tears which is keeping it from seating fully....
@@sydfixesbikes I'll double check the rim and see if I can smooth out any tears I see. The ones I saw a while back when this started happening were small tears, again from a tire lever I used to take off the tire (which I've grown to not like using unless I have to LOL. I've also learned how to take the tire off without the lever).
@@sydfixesbikes And thanks for your help!
Freakin' killed it you guys! I really dig the second channel. If youre going to do the quick recap, you might start with that so we have a sense of direction from the start.
Top work. Knew how to do it anyway, but just watched as I enjoy your guys content.
Thabks so much. Entertaining and informative. Will get my tubeless done with confidence. Great
Why didn't you put wheel back on that holding jig and spin wheel to spread sealant around the tyre ?
That generally just spins the sealant to the center of the tire and doesn't fully coat the inside. That's why riding is the best option (bumps, turns, stopping all help get the sealant all over the inside) and the sealant dance is the next best option.
great video and far more clear than many others that I've seen. please keep them coming, and don't forget about road bikes too :)
I absolutely love your videos you two! You both have a wonderful video personality that makes them fun to watch. The 1 minute recap is a great way to help “set” the new knowledge in for people like me with short memories. Syd you are an absolute gem of a lady and Mackie (spelling?) you have a great attitude as a mentor/ instructor. Keep the videos coming. They are greatly appreciated.
Cheers for the tip with the insulating tape I did my son's no tube less rims and the rear one would hold air but would loose 10psi over a few days drove me mad.. Anyway I've cleaned it down taped the tape and it's now holding air fine cheers
Syd- I know how to tape rims but found this very entertaining!
Cool channel. I started myself to learn this year, and it is pretty difficult at times. Hoping this channel helps. Now I know how to install rim tape!
Ok, I always start one spoke before the valve hole, and go to one spoke after the hole, so the bung is double thick. What is the rationale behind the opposite side approach? Also, I agree that Gorilla tape leaves a mess, but if you use a degreaser to clean the rim it seems to come off pretty easily. Also, I always use the compressed to set the bead first, then go back and add the sealant through the valve with the core out. Not sure if that is wrong or not, but a lot neater.
We've done both, but generally prefer only one layer over the hole to make putting the valve in a bit easier. In terms of putting sealant on afterwards, that works great, but requires an extra step and is harder to see how much is in there (unless you're using a syringe with measurements) so we usually just add as we're installing the tire...
@@sydfixesbikes I do use a syringe, so that makes injecting easier.
@@sydfixesbikes Also, it is so cool that you respond to comments!
Question: If I do have 31.5mm inner width of my rims, what width of tape do I need to use, 30mm or 33mm? Thanks
Probably 30. Easier to do 2 layers if the 30 doesn't fully cover the holes that to cut down the 33.
This is the first actual good tutorial I've seen.
Looking forward to this. I've been wanting to do more of my own stuff, and with how you guys explain things I think this new channel will be more helpful than others I have tried watching.
Do you need to go bead to bead or just cover the spoke hole area?
Just the spoke holes, but be warned that if you don't go bead to bead it has a tendency to get messed up when you are removing tires.
@@sydfixesbikes thank you.
I did it in the opposite way..I used electrical tap first then a layer of gorilla tape on top. So far holding air..we'll see how long it lasts. Glad to see racers are using g electrical tape. Makes me feel better about it 😅
Oh Come on! Literally yesterday I notice my wheel is losing air because of a bad tape, and you guys decide to launch a new channel to teach me how to fix that? Thank you awesome! BUT you skimmed over my most pressing question ... How on earth do I clean the mess from the old tape?
Use soap, water and a scrub brush and then the pokey tool/flathead screwdriver to scratch the rest off. It's a pain and time-consuming, but worth doing!
@@sydfixesbikes Thank you! Guess I'll have face the inevitable LOL
What rim tape did you use in the video? It looks like regular scotch tape in the video. What brand is it?
Slime. Don't think they make it anymore
Psyched to see this series! Just starting home mechanic stuff so this is really nice to know. Plus the reasoning is also very useful to know why we do things.
I wouldn't put electrical tape or any other kind of tape on tap of the tubeless tape for the same reason you explained at the beginning. The electrical tape won't hold the pressure and eventually you'll have to redo the whole thing again.
Whether you're applying a 2nd layer is because you don't trust the 1st one; as a result, you better apply a 2nd layer of hte same tubeless tape. But now here is my tip-trick come along !! Apply the 1st layer use the rag as you did to get rid of most bubbles then put the tire on and the tube too (yes the tube !!) Inflate the tube until the tire pops up into the bed, keep inflating up to the psi's for the tire is supposed to be with a tube. Let it be for 5 - 10 min and remove the tire and tube, with this process you get rid of the bubbles and attach the tape perfectly onto the rim surface all along.
If you need apply the 2nd layer and repeat the same previous process but start the taping at the opposite side where you started the 1st layer so you don't have 2 beginnings at the same spot.
Important: When removing the tube in the 2nd round just break one bed of the tire and take the tube off through that side, then put the tubeless valve on and tight the stem nut as required. Put the tire back on and inflate until both beds get on the rim (loud pop sound).
Finally, remove valve core and inject the sealant through the steam at floor position (never on top), put the core back in and inflate to tubeless regular pressure + 5-10 psi's more and close the valve. Move around the tire to spread the sealant evenly inside the tire and the put the tire sidewides on a bucket or box for 10 min, then repeat the shaking and moving around and put it back on the bucket but on other side for 5-10 min
Actually, I'll leave standing overnight after all this process to verify it holds the pressure and no major sealant leakage happened; reduce pressure to your preference.
It's ok if sealant goes through tire walls in some cases (some tires have porous where the sealant shows up as little drops onto the walls
I've done this procedure for years for all my bikes (road, gravel, MTB, and Fat) and never ever I had a problem or failure with the setup and no messy sealant all over 👍
Just found this channel and glad I did! Thanks for the vid. New Subscriber!
Great video. I'm very new to mountain biking but doing my own maintenance is one thing that I will be striving for. So I see a lot of time spent with you guys in the future. Keep up the great videos
Love the new series! Looking forward to the next video!
This will be an awesome/fun/entertaining series......Can't wait for the "Syd's 2nd brake bleed" vid :)