I have always flushed or drained/refilled my transmissions with no issues. On my Olds I change out the filter every 2 years. And I have found bolts in the pan from the valve body! So if you can drop the transmission pan re- torqe the valve body bolts. Great advise.
Flushed or drained robert? Do you do both. Again, big diff between the two. Just sayin. I, like you, drop the pain, replace the filter(s), refill and I'm good to go. I do everything I own every 2 years (30,000 miles) whether it needs it or not. I sometimes unhook the lines coming off the cooler and run it in neutral for a short time which gets some of the fluid in the torque converter also.
I’ve never flush none of my vehicles transmissions that I own. I just change the filter and fluid and I put in over 570,000.miles on both of my 88 Ford Ranger. Even if you didn’t flush your transmission you’ll still be good. After changing the fluid it did make a difference on the shifting and made the shifting shift smother .
When my 97 suburban had 140k I put two bottles of seafoam in the trans and drove it for about 4k miles until it started slipping. Changed the filter and flushed the fluid and it feels like a bran new transmission...the sea foam breaks up all the gummed up trans fluid and cleans the clutch packs and passages. It's at 190k now and still shifts like a bran new trans.
My '95 Suburban C1500 had over 330,000 miles on it when I bought it, so I was pretty hesitant to change it since it did not look too good. Since it seemed to shift very well, I had the idea of replacing fluid. Ever 500-1000 miles I have been pumping a quart out through the dipstick hole and replacing it with new fluid, and it seems to be shifting better and better. So when the color on the dip stick starts to look red again, I will do a full change.
Im Planing to do the same thing i thinks its the better idea like you said my friend even if our car has alot of miles and the Fluid oil is pretty bad in shape just take some old fluid out in put some new untill it gets better and better with red or pinkish color little by little is going to get better!!!!!!👏👍👍👍
@@clementegarcia8394 As long as it is not slipping, it's a great course of action. I did eventually do a full fluid change on my transmission and it drove great for about 5K. Then I blew a transmission seal (something I should have replaced when I changed the fluid) and lost all the fluid killing an otherwise good transmission. I ended up swapping in a used transmission and selling the truck.
@@mattieso1790 I beg the differ, if anything you can get far more miles out of the new ones than the old ones not that the old ones aren't great, I own a 2001 with 277k no major repairs but the new ones are so much more precisely built
@@tqdinh2 the manuals on the most cars say to change it at 60k. the problem with transmission and fluid change comes when the vehicle has over 120k miles with the same liquid.
Tightening the valve body bolts probably helped more than the new fluid and filter. Personally, I like a firm shift, "buttery smooth" to me says slippage which equals heat. Heat is what kills automatics. If it was my truck and didn't have any trans problems before, I'd have added a "shift improver kit" while I had it open.
All you really need to do is turn the line pressure up a little bit to get crisper shifts. His transmission isn't slipping though, that's just how they were originally set up. That's also probably why the fluid was so dark. I'm sure it runs a bit hot. The synthetic fluid will help with the thermal breakdown issue.
I flushed my cvt transmission at around 120 000 miles and it was never done before it drives better now since it was flushed. It is malarkey to say it will wreck the transmission. Make sure you flush it no matter the miles. It drives super smooth I agree 100 percent!!
I drive an '88 Toyota Land Cruiser with just shy of 300K miles that just recently I added an auxiliary transmission cooler to, and in the process did a drain and fill of my transmission. Since it was just a drain and fill, the torque converter didn't get flushed out. But even then after buttoning everything back up and driving it, my last two tanks of gas averaged 14 MPG versus the 11-11.5 MPG that I used to get. The only thing that happened was new transmission fluid (despite the old stuff still being clean and not smelling burnt, though it was about 10 years old) and I spent the money and used Schaeffer's All-Trans. No affiliation, but a very happy customer.
Never thought of checking the valve body bolts. Got fluid change in 500 miles , think ill check them out. Judging by the freeway and background, howdy neighbor. Not saying were cuz of privacy... but you know. Thanks for another great vid.
That's not a flush, it's a standard service. Flushing requires a flush machine connected to the cooler lines. Flush it with a flushing machine and it won't fair out so well.
They run engine with line off cooler while pouring fluid in as it ran. This allowed all the fluid to be replaced jast like a machine would do. Then they swap out filter.
So here is my experience with changing trans fluid. If the fluid is still red a flush is fine. A flush is when new fluid is pumped trough a transmission without removing the pan by the way. If the fluid is starting to loose color drop the pan change the filter and replace the fluid with new. If the fluid is a orange color or darker leave it because the transmission already damaged. Drive it till it breaks then replace it. As a general rule though I don’t like flushes, yes the pump new fluid though all the transmission until everything is clean but you are leaving that old filter to pig up or fall apart. If the pan comes off replace the filter. Oh and something else sometime doing a flush cleans the transmission too well removing some of the slime that is keeping the transmission working.? Just my experience
Who cares if it's a 95! Those were great truck's! They didn't rust as fast as the newer truck's the sheet metal was thicker.. that drive train should last you 300,000 miles. My buddies 96 GMC Sierra has 560,000 miles on the original 350.. Keep it forever!!
I have a ‘94 Suburban C1500 with almost 400,000 miles. I have changed the engine and transmission, but the nice thing is good, inexpensive used engines and transmissions for these trucks area easy to find.
@@philllsxga.7737 After about 260,000 miles the compression was pretty bad. So I swapped it out for a motor that had 140k on it that I got for $500. I took the old engine apart intending to rebuild it but then it sat in my garage disassembled for several months. I sold it to a guy whose kids are all grown up and out of his house and he actually had time to rebuild it.
I got a 1995 Suburban C1500 with 332k on it and its still on it's original engine/trans. The trans may have been rebuilt, but I see no evidence of that. It still seems to shift pretty well, but you can tell there is some wear. If you took care of them, these TH700R4/4l60's could last a very long time.
@@zacharywhite8230 & Mike Bennett....so you're saying a FLUSH would involve a flush machine but someone dropping a trans pan, changing filter and fluid would be considered a fluid replacement? Wanted to confirm terminology since it sounds like some use these terms interchangeably. thanks
The thinking on this is if it's bad after the fluid change, the transmission is bad. Fluid doesn't have anything to do with it, but it's maintenance for sure does 💯
Here’s the deal: in some cases there is a varnish build up on the surfaces that seals, some o rings and some lip type, run against. When the fluid is changed the detergents wash this off abruptly and you lose sealing because there is a gap between old hardened seal and the surface it should contact to seal. You can’t know if you have the deposit build up or not. Fluids improved over time and electronically controlled transmissions are far kinder to their fluid. The risk if the fluid is not
I flushed the fluid in my 2004 Trailblazer at 165,000 miles. I was not the original owner, but the fluid was a very light pink/a touch of light brown mixture, so I had assumed it had been changed at least once before. Same 4L60E as yours. Hell, it ran like a champ after the flush. UNTIL ......... 1 year later...... the pump exploded. I had to rip it out and do a total rebuild. I fully believe the full fluid flush is what did it. Let us know in a year how that tranny is doing.
@@whyjustwhy2168 I reread my post after your reply. I should have added that I seriously believe that if I had just done a simple pan drop, filter change and refilled with about 5 quarts of fresh dex vi, my transmission would have never failed.
@Brandon S nothing to do with care, but just noticed the difference between this video and others. Merely pointing out the obvious. Nothing wrong with marketing... like the suggestive title to catch the attention.
I bought a jeep commander with the Nag 1 granny. I drove it for 3 months notice a clunking as I was driving. After looking a power train. I came to the conclusion it was transmission. It didn't have the dipstick. so I drop the pan twice change the fluid and filter 6 months apart. Lastly added an inline filter. The clunky stop it shifts better. Thanks for the update.
Flush machines do NOT use pressure to flush your transmission. There is a fluid container on the machine with a bladder inside. You fill the bladder with fresh fluid, when you hook it to your vehicle the pressure side of the cooler goes into the container outside of the bladder pushing fresh fluid from the bladder into your vehicle, so it's nothing more than normal transmission pump pressure. The reason transmissions fail after flushes is because the transmission was already junk before the flush, it was being kept alive by all the clutch material in the fluid helping to take up extra space between the clutches. He never actually showed what he did but that was a very full pan of fluid, he probably got 80% or more I'd call that great, normally I just take the li e off the cooler and start the vehicle and wait for it to go empty, it gets more fluid out than just dropping the pan and since I don't have access to a machine anymore that'll have to be enough. Edit: I've had a few transmissions start slipping in the past, sometimes a quart of gear oil in the transmission will stop it, an old 700R4 I had went 9 months like that without an issue and drove to the junkyard.
A pan drop is more necessary when u have a old truck with a lot of miles and don’t know the history of when the transmission fluid was changed. That’s when u have to worry about doing a full flush
I have a 1997 Ram 1500 with a 360 V8 and auto trans both original to the truck and right now it has 265,205 miles on it. When I first got it I just flushed the trans fluid, not a fluid and filter change, I flushed 8 quarts or 2 gallons and it ran good for 55,000 miles and then I done a fluid and filter change and I flush about 4 quarts about every other month and so far I've put 73,000 miles on my truck myself and the trans changes smooth and still running strong to this day. If you don't take care of the engine and trans then they will not run for very long. I'm hoping to get a few more 1000's of miles out of my truck.
But it’s old, however it has less than 80k miles. I’m pretty sure you said the transmission fluid flush or whatever was probably never done. How about a car half the age but with double the mileage? I’m pretty certain the results would be diffferent then.
@@dakotasilverman7915 why was I lucky? I knew that completely flushing may be bad so I just drained it and changed the filter. Still runs like a charm.
The school of thought on the no flush I believe originates from people with high mile already malfunctioning transmissions. You flush a trans with worn out clutches it will slip more, since the old dirty fluid was actually thicker with metal and clutch particles making things work. New thin fluid = less friction more slipping
It's fine to flush your system as long as your fluid is still red but if it is black you can only drain what is in the pan and leave the rest of the fluid in the torque converter because it still contains minut particles of your clutch plates
That buttery smooth shifting on such a heavy vehicle scares me. More slippage equals higher trans temps and more material being worn away on the clutches. I have a Corvette servo on mine with a remote spin on transmission filter. My shifts are quick and crisp.
PLEASE STOP SAYING FLUSH!!!!!!! You REPLACED it, NOT flushed it. Big difference. Flush = sucks up through the tube and/or fill bolt hole Replace = drop pan, drain, and refill NEVER flush (sucks crap upward through the tube), it stirs up all the metallic particles and kills the transmission within 10-15K miles. ALWAYS drop the pan to drain, replace the filter, clean the pan, new gasket, and refill with fresh trans fluid. Now with that said I do not have to worry about this, I have an 06 Silverado with manual transmission and once a year add a little syncromesh manual trans fluid.
Myself I'm a drain and replace kind of guy... when you flush, you actually use pressure to push all of the fluid out of the torque converter and use pressure to push new fluid in... I've never had a problem with drain and replace....
@Andrew Rodden I do...I was specifically taking about flush vs drain and replace... Filter should be obvious... thanks for pointing it out though for those who wouldn't do the obvious and leave in their old filter....👍
I've owned a 1993 K1500 with the same Trans, purchased in 1999 with 99K miles. I performed 2 Transfusions of ATF, first in 2001and another a few years later, added a Trany Cooler also in 2001, this has been my Tow Vehicle. In 2017 at 161K miles the transmission began to slip in high gear under load only while out of State. I had a Transmission Shop rebuild it, guy said it was the cleanest transmission he had ever rebuilt. What he found was that a few of the Clutch Disc's had stripped out splines from wear which was why I was able to drive it to the Shop going no more than 45 MPH. A year and a half ago I purchased a 2007 Audi A6Q Avant 3.2L with 139K Miles, I was told that the Transmission had been serviced at 85K. The 6 Speed ZF Transmission never failed but didn't feel great. Recently at 165 K Miles I performed a Drain and Refill using Schaeffer's All-Trans ATF (my favorite ATF), the improved Shift Quality is Amazing. I will Probably do it again within the next 12 Months. BTW, I used a 2 Gallon Chemical Sprayer (Modified) to Pump the Fluid in from below and a Hand Held Temperature Device to set the Fill Level at 33°C.
never flush-n-fill your transmission....drain-n -fill it with a filter change...the chemicals in the flush will loosen the varnish on your interior components and damage parts....you flush-n-fill your radiator.
Looks like it worked GREAT! My belief is better to change than not. Never believed in the never change it philosophy. Thanks for providing an update. Too often viewers want a follow up on whether it worked or not. Please continue your updates to your viewers
@@elcaminosunlimited Know of one that died in my son's Trailblazer, over 250K miles. i can live with that, the fluid had never been serviced but early 4L60E's had some issues. They are stout Transmissions if well maintained and not abused.
Once in a while a piece of dirt might get stuck in a spring causing neutralizing but putting it in passing gear 2-3 times blasts it out and it will go many miles trouble free.
I ditto your sentiments & have done so on all my vehicles with same results, I love keeping my vehicles as long as possible. My twist is that I added a remote oil filter & added a remote trans cooler from a dodge Dakota. I live in So Cal so bypassed using the factory cooler in the radiator. It runs way cooler even pulling my boat so much so I can grab the oil filter and for about 5 seconds! So every other oil change to my motor I also change my tranny fluid, pull remote filter run in park about 2 mins, retain & measure spent fluid add new fluid & filter keeps it like new for little time. I have done this to my last five trucks & two work vans!!
just had my 2011 Honda Civic flushed with 232k miles, not knowing it can have adverse effects... going to pick up car today from mechanic, hopefully no issues, wish me luck.
Age won’t really matter more as miles. Yes the fluid got old old but since he did it before 150k fluid wasn’t black or thick so fluid was still good now if you had done it on black fluid that’s 200k miles that’s something different
You can undue the trans cooler lines and flush it like that. Just do not run out of fresh fluid while you are in the process. Do this after the filter and gasket. A quart of Lucas trans fix is always a good idea for a little extra insurance.
If your transmission fails from a fluid change it's because the only thing holding it together was dirt and metal particles. I have a 03 Ford that has 189k with orginal fluid and I'm just waiting for it to fail on it's own cause I know if I change the fluid it will die lol
The method used is a flush but I don’t believe it’s the “dealer flush” which hooks up a machine to force new fluid, and sometimes cleaning agents, into the transmission lines while flushing out the old fluid. Many complain the dealer method is no good or if your fluid is so thick and black and your tranny is old you might cause more harm than good. If it works it works. I have extracted a liter here and there of old fluid out of the dipstick and added a liter here and there of new fluid to an old BMW transmission which works just fine for a 35 year old ZF tranny. I do the filter and pan drop when needed.
The ideal way of doing this. First remove the pan and collect the old ATF in a measuring container. Replace the old filter with new one. Then fix the pan back. Check the quantity of old ATF in the container and pour exactly same amount of new ATF into the transmission via dipstick hole. Then disconnect the feed line and make arrangements to collect the ATF in a container. The ATF coming out should be visible to us. Now start the car and let the ATF come out from the supply line. At the same time start pouring new ATF into the transmission via dipstick hole. When the color of the ATF coming out of the transmission is same as that of the ATF being poured in, stop pouring and switch off the ignition. Check the ATF level with the dipstick. Then drive for around 10-20 minutes shifting through all the gears. Then check the ATF level again. Then pour ATF upto the recommended level if needed. Thank you.
I had GM flush mine every 45k miles on my 2004 1500 and never had a problem I did 4 services over the time of ownership. It had 220k when I traded it. I always noticed it shifted better and was more sensitive after every service. I do this with all my vehicles and I personally have not had transmission problems. My wife's 2020 Camry SE is going in for its 1st service soon. It has the 8-speed so I am going to do it every 40k and see how far it will go.
I have a '99 Ford Ranger XLT , I had the transmission fluid changed at around 100 k , because of your video on your doing your transmission , I had my transmissions filter replaced ( my spine won't allow me to get on my back anymore ) , my truck is at 245 k , I hope to see at least 300 k , the order was to replace the fluid too , the mechanic said it was good , I had both pumpkins flushed , and the transfer case , they said that the transfer case fluid was just black , so changing it was a good thing , with the shop doing the service , when they replaced the transmission fluid that was lost , they added a conditioner too , nice and smooth , I can't feel the shifts anymore , before , oh yeah , I most definitely could feel the OD shift , I have to say , thank you for your videos , from a Happy '99 Ranger !
Most people have problems because they wait till the transmission is already having problems before they attempt this . With regular maintenance fluid changes the transmission will last longer.
I have a 99 Suburban (basically same exact truck) with 170K miles with original fluid that shifts just fine. I'm to chicken to do a full fluid change at once so at each oil change I remove & replace 1 quart of trans fluid. I've swapped out 2 quarts now over 8 k miles and so far so good. I think I'll just keep following this method for now. Hey - How about a video on transfer case have pump rub holes- that truck will eventually get it but probably not till ~125k miles....
I took my 1995 suburban once. Full fluid, dif fs transfer case and brakes. oil. 30,000 miles ago. It didn't need brakes... I had a bad experience. Chevy couldn't get the rear drums off.. I have the factory issue rear brake shoes still on X 25 years / 50,200 original miles
Another school of thought - if the fluid is dirty but you aren't having problems then leave well enough alone. I've been told that by a transmission shop, they wouldn't even do simple fluid change on my Yukon. Was told the same by another guy who does rebuild. But, if you are having issues, you have nothing to lose by changing the fluid.
I just don't understand that... If the fluid is burnt and dirty and you're having no issues, flush it out! Why leave it? If you're having issues and you change the fluid, the issues may get worse but the new fluid didn't harm anything, it just revealed a real problem. Personally, I'd want to know about that sooner than later so it doesn't break down during a long road trip or something like that. That's just me though 👍👍
@@1RoadGarage the train of thought is that the burnt out material that's floating around in the dirty fluid is giving a transmission that has slipping clutches some extra grip and the process of changing it out uncovers the massive problem that was lurking all the time. A quick way to tell weather you have a problem lurking in the shadows is to pull up the service manual of your vehicle and see how long the transmission should take to engage. If it's longer that the specified time then the clutches have wear on them. This tip should be used in addition to the other usual signs of transmission wear.
droped the trans pan in 2011 at 118k on my 97 gmc k1500 350 and just replaced that fluid and new delco filter, now at 160k trany is still great shifting,
I did this on a '78 Nova with 125k on it & could not believe how smooth it shifted after the flush & it ran & shifted like a tank up to the last day I drove it.
The transmission fluid in my 29 year old "free" car was original as well, dropped the pan, changed the filter, cleaned it all up and put in new fluid and it has been driving great the past year. It also is a 3 speed hydraulically controlled transmission so it doesn't have all the nonsense electronic junk and no overdrive to fail. Less parts, less stuff to wear out and fail. Today's 8+ speed automatics are going to be a nightmare when they fail, and they will because if the internals don't fail first the electronics will and usually causes a limp mode where the vehicle is stuck in 1 gear or won't move at all. Adding more gears means the transmission is shifting more, creating more heat, slipping between gears (so many gears you just can't tell its slipping and shifting up and down hunting for the right gear).
Wow Great Video Jimmy. My 2002 Silverado 2500 HD just turned 80K. It has the Allison 5 speed. I've changed the fluid every 40K my self plus the external Filter every 10K. So far it's Bullet Proof. Thanks again. Bill
It didn't blow cause you did retighten the valve body bolts. Loose bolts fluid leakage out of the intended passage means the gear or band will not be held as firmly allowing slipping. And putting thicker fluid will reduce the amount of leakage and flow. But less flow will be required so it can be held more firmly.
With a pan drop and filter change done often enough it will eventually dilute the residual (converter) fluid not able to get drained the first time. Ultimately 99.99 % ( never a hundred since some of the original fluid will linger in ever decreasing amounts) of the fluid will be fresh when changed.
I have a 17 year old Hyundai with a well-maintained 50K on it. It drives great, but I plan on doing a 1 Road style DIY ATF flush this summer. Great update!!
I think most people are concerned on transmissions that have a lot more mileage than 78,000 miles this one has. Low mileage transmissions are not as worn and don't need the "grit" in the old oil to help with the friction. Try a high mileage transmission to see if you get the result most people are talking about.
only time i would not recommend a Fluid Flush, and or Filter change is if you transmission is already failing. that clunk could be a U-joint or a worn Differential.
@@monkeyX42792X , True, if that is the case then the E-brake needs to be used so the weight of the vehicle is not on the PArking Paw. I have had a few customers with worn Difs, and u-joint that cause that very issue. or them not using the ebrake
A trans Flush is when you run the vehicle while draining it to get all the fluid remaining it torque converter and so forth out. All you did was a ATF replacement.
Ok ; I have been a transmission mechanic for idk 40 years, that's what I do. If you so called "flush you trans" and it goes out, it was about done for anyway. The fresh slippery fluid might have hastened it, but the truth is, it was about spent anyway. Fluid & filter changes are always good maintenance. I always drop and clean the pan, replace the filter or in some cases filters, fill the pan w new fluid, hook my hoses to the cooler lines, I don't have a machine, start the engine and add the approximate quantity of fluid the trans is suppose to hold while it's running, that way you are getting most of the fluid out of the torque converter as well. some imports only have a drain plug, no pan, you have to disassemble the trans to get at the filter, so a drain & converter flush the same way is all you can do. Been working good for me.
I had the fluid changed out on a 1995 camry today. I hope it didn't screw the pooch and cause anything unwanted. The car has about 125,000 miles on it the fluid was a reddish brown. It drove home ok.
I'm on my second 2001 Camry with the A140E four speed automatic. These have a drain plug. In my opinion, the best thing to do is just drain using the drain plug and then fill. About 2-1/2 quarts will come out with each drain, about 40 percent of the total fluid.. I use original Dex III, not a back compatible fluid like Dex VI. Back compatible fluids will work, but who knows if they really are beneficial or not? With just normal maintenance, people have gone way past 300,000 miles (500K km) with these vehicles using only dino (conventional) oil and OEM transmission fluid. How long a vehicle lasts has more to with maintenance and how it is driven than it does with anything else. I don't think what products you use makes much difference as long as they meet OEM specifications. It's a year later. Is it still running?
The issue is not that changing the fluid breaks the transmission. The issue is, people wait until the transmission starts having issues to change the fluid. There is were you may wash out the clutch material that was barely keeping it going.
I went to a transmission shop and get a service on my Mercedes E270cdi. It's a lot smoother now. But it's still not perfekt. Maybe because of some engine problem or a bad ECU chiptune. But its still a lot better than befor.
Man I wish this video was out back when I bought my 95 Suburban back in 2012!!! I was told by a mechanic that it would destroy my transmission if I would have done a fluid flush and by my dumb ass listening to them I now have to replace the entire transmission in my truck, because I didn’t do the flush...smfh🤬
NEVER flush (sucks crap upward through the tube), it stirs up all the metallic particles and kills the transmission within 10-15K miles. ALWAYS drop the pan to drain, replace the filter, clean the pan, new gasket, and refill with fresh trans fluid. What he did was replace it (drain and refill), which is very difference from a flush which can and does damage the transmission.
Also really depends on miles from when it was changed and condition of trans. I just made a fatal mistake and did a drain and fill of the 195k mile Pathfinder. Drove great for 3k miles and then I blew a seal and basically needs a ton of work not worth doing.
Glad it worked for you! How much OLD fluid was still in Torque Converter? I heard there could be as much as a gallon? Very few converters have a drain plug. I suggest you get a vacuum fluid pump and suck out as much as you can, re-fill it. Do it twice after driving about 100 or so miles between. Then hope seals don't leak.
You didn’t really flush it, you did a replacement pretty much. Because the truck only has low miles there are many things that need to be replaced that are recommended from the factory after so many thousand miles. Timing chain about every 60 thousand miles and so fourth.
No transmission lasts forever. 4l60e transmissions can last, but you don't want one built on a Monday. The clutches wear down under normal driving. If you always buy low mileage or new vehicles, then you'll probably never have issues. (Except for a lemon)
What I would expect. Good tip on the bolts. Nice 'burban. Other: One thing I thought I've noticed is manual downshifting messes up transmissions. I swear I've done this with two trucks and one car (to save brake heat and wear), and shortly afterward each had slippage symptoms. I just use the brakes now.
Shifting is not the main issue. Most modern auto transmissions have only bushings instead of bearings. A full flush, using a flushing machine that sucks all the old fluid out can result in certain bearings running dry for awhile even after the refill. That's the problem with a full flush.
The ran engine while pouring fluid in with cooler line off. This was not a pan drop. As long as fluid isn't burnt( burnt fluid means burnt clutches most likely)
You clearly didn't watch the first part... He let the tranny pump itself dry, filled back up, pumped dry again, then pulled the pan and filter. There is hardly any trace of old fluid in there now.
Did this to my 1998 olds a month ago and replaced coil packs be sure to clean m.a.s. and throttle body and clean the egr next on my. To do list is spark plugs and wires new struts and shocks and shes all good
I’m gonna see what happens. My fluid looks like oil (but not black) and there’s definitely metal build up. It took over a gallon of fluid after I purchased it, I’m assuming a previous driver didn’t check his fluids regularly. It’s got 255K on it so it’s not break-in particles on the magnet unless it’s never been changed before. I need to find torque specs to see about tightening my valve body bolts too.
Friend changed fluid. Drove to mi from Texas. Short time. Kept stopping. Wait few minutes would go. He changed front and rear pumps. Old 72 dodge small 6 auto. Asked a good trans guy. He said change filter again. New fluid It had loosened crud and was blocking filter. When car stopped crud woulf drop down and go again short way Changed the filter no more problems problems. This was in 1980
You are speaking of the Chrysler 904 three speed transmission, I believe. These and the larger 727 are the only one I have ever seen where the filter actually got plugged up. I have seen them refuse to move and then run perfectly again after a filter change. Your experience is not unusual for these units. It happens because of the material the filter is made of.
Yup; LubeGard is one of a few good additives and is probably about the next best thing for regular fluids like Dex/Merc to top quality synthetic fluids like AMSOIL. As far as sludge & varnish, if your trans has much sludge & varnish it is probably already shot. I have had many auto transmissions & transaxles apart with 200,000+ miles on em with one broken component or bad clutch pak, and you wouldn't believe how clean they actually are inside. The sludge & varnish thing is kind of a marketing ploy by a lot of additive makers I think. Most properly blended ATF's are high detergent so do a good job of keeping things clean by themselves. That and you aren't burning fuels like in an engine that create carbon & deposits. Fluid & filter changes and trying not to get em too hot when pulling or hauling heavy loads or beating on em, like getting stuck in the mud or snow, most will last pretty good. From my own experience, if you get stuck, try to get a tow or get out a shovel, jack, winch or call a tow truck, or what ever you can come up with, because if your sit there and grind away trying to get out you can brake something or wreck your trans, axles or other driveline parts. Been there, done that myself. ha ha
Fluid exchanges or flushes are more dependent on mileage in stead of time and if any clunk was present more likely from u-joint and the smoother shift is probably due to the fluid and technology that goes into today's products far exceed yesterday's products
Dont shops use a pressurized flushing machine that can be harmful to a transmission that has a lot of miles on it because of the pressure of the machine? Just turning on the vehicle for a few seconds to let the pump circulate the fluid for a few seconds at a time is different. The hard part is making sure fluid level is correct because it has to be at a certain temp (which is trickier without a scantool) and modern autos dont have dipsticks.
Yes, those flushing machines can cause all sorts of issues. What happens is they flush the old fluid out and run new fluid through the transmission which tends to break up any debris in all nooks and crannies of the transmission, and usually lodges those debris in the valve body and other tiny passages throughout the transmission causing shifting problems, burning up clutch packs, causing solenoids not to function making the transmission possibly not shift at all, shift very harshly, get stuck in a certain gear, etc. Best thing to do is just drop the transmission pan change the filter and top off with new fluid...no it doesn't get all the old fluid out but it also doesn't damage your transmission.
Fluids are the life blood of a vehicle - great to keep older vehicles running for years to come. Best wishes from the UK.
I have always flushed or drained/refilled my transmissions with no issues. On my Olds I change out the filter every 2 years. And I have found bolts in the pan from the valve body! So if you can drop the transmission pan re- torqe the valve body bolts. Great advise.
Flushed or drained robert? Do you do both. Again, big diff between the two. Just sayin. I, like you, drop the pain, replace the filter(s), refill and I'm good to go. I do everything I own every 2 years (30,000 miles) whether it needs it or not. I sometimes unhook the lines coming off the cooler and run it in neutral for a short time which gets some of the fluid in the torque converter also.
About Bolts - great tip agree, What Moment is in EU standard use ? ( Newton )
I’ve never flush none of my vehicles transmissions that I own. I just change the filter and fluid and I put in over 570,000.miles on both of my 88 Ford Ranger. Even if you didn’t flush your transmission you’ll still be good. After changing the fluid it did make a difference on the shifting and made the shifting shift smother .
When my 97 suburban had 140k I put two bottles of seafoam in the trans and drove it for about 4k miles until it started slipping. Changed the filter and flushed the fluid and it feels like a bran new transmission...the sea foam breaks up all the gummed up trans fluid and cleans the clutch packs and passages. It's at 190k now and still shifts like a bran new trans.
My '95 Suburban C1500 had over 330,000 miles on it when I bought it, so I was pretty hesitant to change it since it did not look too good. Since it seemed to shift very well, I had the idea of replacing fluid. Ever 500-1000 miles I have been pumping a quart out through the dipstick hole and replacing it with new fluid, and it seems to be shifting better and better. So when the color on the dip stick starts to look red again, I will do a full change.
Im Planing to do the same thing i thinks its the better idea like you said my friend even if our car has alot of miles and the Fluid oil is pretty bad in shape just take some old fluid out in put some new untill it gets better and better with red or pinkish color little by little is going to get better!!!!!!👏👍👍👍
@@clementegarcia8394 As long as it is not slipping, it's a great course of action.
I did eventually do a full fluid change on my transmission and it drove great for about 5K. Then I blew a transmission seal (something I should have replaced when I changed the fluid) and lost all the fluid killing an otherwise good transmission.
I ended up swapping in a used transmission and selling the truck.
had it ever been changed before that ?
@@cedricmendoza1305 I don't think it would've lasted that long unless it had been changed at least once before, though you never know.
@@jestertech3790 you’d be surprised 3 of my dads work trucks lasted 300k-400k with no fluid change crazy
THAT'S WHEN GM WAS STILL MAKING SOLID SUBURBANS👍
They still do buddy lol
livin life not like they used to
@@mattieso1790 I beg the differ, if anything you can get far more miles out of the new ones than the old ones not that the old ones aren't great, I own a 2001 with 277k no major repairs but the new ones are so much more precisely built
so uhh whose gonna tell him@@livinlife8269
I know a guy that has four of them for delivery vehicles it’s nothing to put a half 1,000,000 miles on one
The fluid was flushed, and his transmission is great.
He's lucky man lol
@@tqdinh2 why’s that?
@@tqdinh2 the manuals on the most cars say to change it at 60k. the problem with transmission and fluid change comes when the vehicle has over 120k miles with the same liquid.
Thanks Jimmy, enjoy watching your journey of working on your K1500. I'm not a mechanic just a 95' owner, your a great help friend
Well an automatic does have a fluid clutch so it's bound to only get better. New fluid has more compressibility, fluid dynamics.
It is one of the cheapest things you can do to improve the driving of any vehicle.
It is also a good idea too. Your transmission will last longer.
Tightening the valve body bolts probably helped more than the new fluid and filter. Personally, I like a firm shift, "buttery smooth" to me says slippage which equals heat. Heat is what kills automatics. If it was my truck and didn't have any trans problems before, I'd have added a "shift improver kit" while I had it open.
All you really need to do is turn the line pressure up a little bit to get crisper shifts. His transmission isn't slipping though, that's just how they were originally set up. That's also probably why the fluid was so dark. I'm sure it runs a bit hot. The synthetic fluid will help with the thermal breakdown issue.
Not changing the fluid causes heat also go test drive a NEW car or truck they shift like butter
I flushed my cvt transmission at around 120 000 miles and it was never done before it drives better now since it was flushed. It is malarkey to say it will wreck the transmission. Make sure you flush it no matter the miles. It drives super smooth I agree 100 percent!!
I drive an '88 Toyota Land Cruiser with just shy of 300K miles that just recently I added an auxiliary transmission cooler to, and in the process did a drain and fill of my transmission. Since it was just a drain and fill, the torque converter didn't get flushed out. But even then after buttoning everything back up and driving it, my last two tanks of gas averaged 14 MPG versus the 11-11.5 MPG that I used to get. The only thing that happened was new transmission fluid (despite the old stuff still being clean and not smelling burnt, though it was about 10 years old) and I spent the money and used Schaeffer's All-Trans. No affiliation, but a very happy customer.
I changed my fluid to amsoil at 250k in an Astro.. same 460le.... Total improvement... No issues
Mobil1 is best
I'm at 288k on an 02 avalanche and terrified to flush it.
My Tahoe is coming up on 250.000 , thinks it a good idea?
Never thought of checking the valve body bolts. Got fluid change in 500 miles , think ill check them out. Judging by the freeway and background, howdy neighbor. Not saying were cuz of privacy... but you know. Thanks for another great vid.
That's not a flush, it's a standard service. Flushing requires a flush machine connected to the cooler lines. Flush it with a flushing machine and it won't fair out so well.
They run engine with line off cooler while pouring fluid in as it ran. This allowed all the fluid to be replaced jast like a machine would do.
Then they swap out filter.
So here is my experience with changing trans fluid. If the fluid is still red a flush is fine. A flush is when new fluid is pumped trough a transmission without removing the pan by the way. If the fluid is starting to loose color drop the pan change the filter and replace the fluid with new. If the fluid is a orange color or darker leave it because the transmission already damaged. Drive it till it breaks then replace it. As a general rule though I don’t like flushes, yes the pump new fluid though all the transmission until everything is clean but you are leaving that old filter to pig up or fall apart. If the pan comes off replace the filter. Oh and something else sometime doing a flush cleans the transmission too well removing some of the slime that is keeping the transmission working.? Just my experience
Who cares if it's a 95! Those were great truck's! They didn't rust as fast as the newer truck's the sheet metal was thicker.. that drive train should last you 300,000 miles. My buddies 96 GMC Sierra has 560,000 miles on the original 350..
Keep it forever!!
I have a ‘94 Suburban C1500 with almost 400,000 miles. I have changed the engine and transmission, but the nice thing is good, inexpensive used engines and transmissions for these trucks area easy to find.
@@rontiemens2553 what happened to the original engine?
@@philllsxga.7737 After about 260,000 miles the compression was pretty bad. So I swapped it out for a motor that had 140k on it that I got for $500. I took the old engine apart intending to rebuild it but then it sat in my garage disassembled for several months. I sold it to a guy whose kids are all grown up and out of his house and he actually had time to rebuild it.
I have 98 Chevy Tahoe 350,00 plus on original transmission an engine these are the best Chevy or GMC truck setup
I got a 1995 Suburban C1500 with 332k on it and its still on it's original engine/trans. The trans may have been rebuilt, but I see no evidence of that. It still seems to shift pretty well, but you can tell there is some wear. If you took care of them, these TH700R4/4l60's could last a very long time.
These GMT400 series trucks are the absolute best- I have a 99 "Burb with 236k and it runs like new!
I love hearing that!!
hankgs 98 k1500 with 240k miles. Running strong and it works hard for me pulling trailers with hay or the boat/Camper. Best overall truck ever.
That was a replacement not flushing.
Did you watch the original video in the description? I'm about know. Just curious
He's a dumbass
Huge difference between a flush and replacement that was replacement
Mike Bennett exactly, the flush machine would of destroyed that old transmission.
@@zacharywhite8230 & Mike Bennett....so you're saying a FLUSH would involve a flush machine but someone dropping a trans pan, changing filter and fluid would be considered a fluid replacement? Wanted to confirm terminology since it sounds like some use these terms interchangeably. thanks
give it some beans.......lol, someones been watching sarah n tuned
congrats on breaking 50k subs, love your vids, helps a bunch on my 95 tahoe
Haha, thanks so much! I actually first heard that on TFLTruck. I'll look up Sarah N Tuned...
Isn’t that from south main auto?
@@ax2music could be, sarah's channel is just the first place i heard it, shes all about givin it beans and bad chickens
Sarah has no beans to give! They were removed when he had the transition surgery..... Yes. It's true 😱
I hear that most from Hoovies Garage
The thinking on this is if it's bad after the fluid change, the transmission is bad. Fluid doesn't have anything to do with it, but it's maintenance for sure does 💯
Cool-I had the fluids flushed in my 78 Jeep CJ7 and it runs well.
Nice!
Here’s the deal: in some cases there is a varnish build up on the surfaces that seals, some o rings and some lip type, run against. When the fluid is changed the detergents wash this off abruptly and you lose sealing because there is a gap between old hardened seal and the surface it should contact to seal. You can’t know if you have the deposit build up or not. Fluids improved over time and electronically controlled transmissions are far kinder to their fluid. The risk if the fluid is not
I can only imagine how clogged the old filter was! Your solenoids are thanking you!
I flushed the fluid in my 2004 Trailblazer at 165,000 miles. I was not the original owner, but the fluid was a very light pink/a touch of light brown mixture, so I had assumed it had been changed at least once before. Same 4L60E as yours. Hell, it ran like a champ after the flush.
UNTIL ......... 1 year later...... the pump exploded. I had to rip it out and do a total rebuild.
I fully believe the full fluid flush is what did it. Let us know in a year how that tranny is doing.
Thanks for sharing
@@whyjustwhy2168 I reread my post after your reply. I should have added that I seriously believe that if I had just done a simple pan drop, filter change and refilled with about 5 quarts of fresh dex vi, my transmission would have never failed.
Nothin like having a beauty give the intro and ending to get your likes and subs up!!! I appreciate the update anyways, thanks.
@Brandon S nothing to do with care, but just noticed the difference between this video and others. Merely pointing out the obvious. Nothing wrong with marketing... like the suggestive title to catch the attention.
I bought a jeep commander with the Nag 1 granny. I drove it for 3 months notice a clunking as I was driving. After looking a power train. I came to the conclusion it was transmission. It didn't have the dipstick. so I drop the pan twice change the fluid and filter 6 months apart. Lastly added an inline filter. The clunky stop it shifts better. Thanks for the update.
Very nice, I have same year same color GMC Suburban, but 2500C with 454 engine. They are the most honest machine to drive.
Miss my parents 95 Yukon bought it new and sold it with 300,000 miles on it and still had the original transmission and engine.
Flush machines do NOT use pressure to flush your transmission. There is a fluid container on the machine with a bladder inside. You fill the bladder with fresh fluid, when you hook it to your vehicle the pressure side of the cooler goes into the container outside of the bladder pushing fresh fluid from the bladder into your vehicle, so it's nothing more than normal transmission pump pressure. The reason transmissions fail after flushes is because the transmission was already junk before the flush, it was being kept alive by all the clutch material in the fluid helping to take up extra space between the clutches. He never actually showed what he did but that was a very full pan of fluid, he probably got 80% or more I'd call that great, normally I just take the li e off the cooler and start the vehicle and wait for it to go empty, it gets more fluid out than just dropping the pan and since I don't have access to a machine anymore that'll have to be enough.
Edit: I've had a few transmissions start slipping in the past, sometimes a quart of gear oil in the transmission will stop it, an old 700R4 I had went 9 months like that without an issue and drove to the junkyard.
A pan drop is more necessary when u have a old truck with a lot of miles and don’t know the history of when the transmission fluid was changed. That’s when u have to worry about doing a full flush
I have a 1997 Ram 1500 with a 360 V8 and auto trans both original to the truck and right now it has 265,205 miles on it. When I first got it I just flushed the trans fluid, not a fluid and filter change, I flushed 8 quarts or 2 gallons and it ran good for 55,000 miles and then I done a fluid and filter change and I flush about 4 quarts about every other month and so far I've put 73,000 miles on my truck myself and the trans changes smooth and still running strong to this day. If you don't take care of the engine and trans then they will not run for very long. I'm hoping to get a few more 1000's of miles out of my truck.
But it’s old, however it has less than 80k miles. I’m pretty sure you said the transmission fluid flush or whatever was probably never done. How about a car half the age but with double the mileage? I’m pretty certain the results would be diffferent then.
My truck is 157k I had mines done at 145k it's a 2001 works fine. But I didnt flush it just drained.
Alucardjr69 you got really lucky then
@@dakotasilverman7915 why was I lucky? I knew that completely flushing may be bad so I just drained it and changed the filter. Still runs like a charm.
Alucardjr69 because by then the fluid should’ve been breaking down parts of the trans and the metal fragments keep the transmission from slipping
The school of thought on the no flush I believe originates from people with high mile already malfunctioning transmissions. You flush a trans with worn out clutches it will slip more, since the old dirty fluid was actually thicker with metal and clutch particles making things work. New thin fluid = less friction more slipping
Flushed all transmission fluid out of my Pontiac Vibe. . . .213,000. Transmission feels bran new. Its simply incredible.
It's fine to flush your system as long as your fluid is still red but if it is black you can only drain what is in the pan and leave the rest of the fluid in the torque converter because it still contains minut particles of your clutch plates
That buttery smooth shifting on such a heavy vehicle scares me. More slippage equals higher trans temps and more material being worn away on the clutches. I have a Corvette servo on mine with a remote spin on transmission filter. My shifts are quick and crisp.
I did the vette servo on my Colorado. Made a world of difference towing. Plus I drain and change filter every 50k
PLEASE STOP SAYING FLUSH!!!!!!! You REPLACED it, NOT flushed it. Big difference.
Flush = sucks up through the tube and/or fill bolt hole
Replace = drop pan, drain, and refill
NEVER flush (sucks crap upward through the tube), it stirs up all the metallic particles and kills the transmission within 10-15K miles.
ALWAYS drop the pan to drain, replace the filter, clean the pan, new gasket, and refill with fresh trans fluid.
Now with that said I do not have to worry about this, I have an 06 Silverado with manual transmission and once a year add a little syncromesh manual trans fluid.
Mr. J nice video
Mrs. F welcome to 1 ROAD videos
Thumbs up for one of my favourite channel's 👍👍👍
God bless you 🙏
Thank you and God bless you too!!
Myself I'm a drain and replace kind of guy... when you flush, you actually use pressure to push all of the fluid out of the torque converter and use pressure to push new fluid in... I've never had a problem with drain and replace....
@Andrew Rodden I do...I was specifically taking about flush vs drain and replace... Filter should be obvious... thanks for pointing it out though for those who wouldn't do the obvious and leave in their old filter....👍
I've owned a 1993 K1500 with the same Trans, purchased in 1999 with 99K miles. I performed 2 Transfusions of ATF, first in 2001and another a few years later, added a Trany Cooler also in 2001, this has been my Tow Vehicle. In 2017 at 161K miles the transmission began to slip in high gear under load only while out of State. I had a Transmission Shop rebuild it, guy said it was the cleanest transmission he had ever rebuilt. What he found was that a few of the Clutch Disc's had stripped out splines from wear which was why I was able to drive it to the Shop going no more than 45 MPH. A year and a half ago I purchased a 2007 Audi A6Q Avant 3.2L with 139K Miles, I was told that the Transmission had been serviced at 85K. The 6 Speed ZF Transmission never failed but didn't feel great. Recently at 165 K Miles I performed a Drain and Refill using Schaeffer's All-Trans ATF (my favorite ATF), the improved Shift Quality is Amazing. I will Probably do it again within the next 12 Months. BTW, I used a 2 Gallon Chemical Sprayer (Modified) to Pump the Fluid in from below and a Hand Held Temperature Device to set the Fill Level at 33°C.
Yeah, that's my experience after every ATF change. But I change it often because I burn it often. In the GMT400's I've owned.
never flush-n-fill your transmission....drain-n -fill it with a filter change...the chemicals in the flush will loosen the varnish on your interior components and damage parts....you flush-n-fill your radiator.
I agree drain all you can and then fill it back up
Looks like it worked GREAT! My belief is better to change than not. Never believed in the never change it philosophy. Thanks for providing an update. Too often viewers want a follow up on whether it worked or not. Please continue your updates to your viewers
those are the very best trucks....not like the new one's. People can still work on them.
Andrew Rodden I never had a problem with any 4L60.
Andrew Rodden 320,000 miles on mine and never had a problem. Had it since new.
@@elcaminosunlimited Know of one that died in my son's Trailblazer, over 250K miles. i can live with that, the fluid had never been serviced but early 4L60E's had some issues. They are stout Transmissions if well maintained and not abused.
Once in a while a piece of dirt might get stuck in a spring causing neutralizing but putting it in passing gear 2-3 times blasts it out and it will go many miles trouble free.
I ditto your sentiments & have done so on all my vehicles with same results, I love keeping my vehicles as long as possible. My twist is that I added a remote oil filter & added a remote trans cooler from a dodge Dakota. I live in So Cal so bypassed using the factory cooler in the radiator. It runs way cooler even pulling my boat so much so I can grab the oil filter and for about 5 seconds! So every other oil change to my motor I also change my tranny fluid, pull remote filter run in park about 2 mins, retain & measure spent fluid add new fluid & filter keeps it like new for little time. I have done this to my last five trucks & two work vans!!
just had my 2011 Honda Civic flushed with 232k miles, not knowing it can have adverse effects... going to pick up car today from mechanic, hopefully no issues, wish me luck.
Age won’t really matter more as miles. Yes the fluid got old old but since he did it before 150k fluid wasn’t black or thick so fluid was still good now if you had done it on black fluid that’s 200k miles that’s something different
You can undue the trans cooler lines and flush it like that. Just do not run out of fresh fluid while you are in the process. Do this after the filter and gasket. A quart of Lucas trans fix is always a good idea for a little extra insurance.
If your transmission fails from a fluid change it's because the only thing holding it together was dirt and metal particles. I have a 03 Ford that has 189k with orginal fluid and I'm just waiting for it to fail on it's own cause I know if I change the fluid it will die lol
The method used is a flush but I don’t believe it’s the “dealer flush” which hooks up a machine to force new fluid, and sometimes cleaning agents, into the transmission lines while flushing out the old fluid. Many complain the dealer method is no good or if your fluid is so thick and black and your tranny is old you might cause more harm than good. If it works it works. I have extracted a liter here and there of old fluid out of the dipstick and added a liter here and there of new fluid to an old BMW transmission which works just fine for a 35 year old ZF tranny. I do the filter and pan drop when needed.
The ideal way of doing this. First remove the pan and collect the old ATF in a measuring container. Replace the old filter with new one. Then fix the pan back. Check the quantity of old ATF in the container and pour exactly same amount of new ATF into the transmission via dipstick hole. Then disconnect the feed line and make arrangements to collect the ATF in a container. The ATF coming out should be visible to us. Now start the car and let the ATF come out from the supply line. At the same time start pouring new ATF into the transmission via dipstick hole. When the color of the ATF coming out of the transmission is same as that of the ATF being poured in, stop pouring and switch off the ignition. Check the ATF level with the dipstick. Then drive for around 10-20 minutes shifting through all the gears. Then check the ATF level again. Then pour ATF upto the recommended level if needed. Thank you.
That's exactly what he did in another video.
I had GM flush mine every 45k miles on my 2004 1500 and never had a problem I did 4 services over the time of ownership. It had 220k when I traded it. I always noticed it shifted better and was more sensitive after every service. I do this with all my vehicles and I personally have not had transmission problems. My wife's 2020 Camry SE is going in for its 1st service soon. It has the 8-speed so I am going to do it every 40k and see how far it will go.
I have a '99 Ford Ranger XLT , I had the transmission fluid changed at around 100 k , because of your video on your doing your transmission , I had my transmissions filter replaced ( my spine won't allow me to get on my back anymore ) , my truck is at 245 k , I hope to see at least 300 k , the order was to replace the fluid too , the mechanic said it was good , I had both pumpkins flushed , and the transfer case , they said that the transfer case fluid was just black , so changing it was a good thing , with the shop doing the service , when they replaced the transmission fluid that was lost , they added a conditioner too , nice and smooth , I can't feel the shifts anymore , before , oh yeah , I most definitely could feel the OD shift , I have to say , thank you for your videos , from a Happy '99 Ranger !
Most people have problems because they wait till the transmission is already having problems before they attempt this . With regular maintenance fluid changes the transmission will last longer.
I have a 99 Suburban (basically same exact truck) with 170K miles with original fluid that shifts just fine. I'm to chicken to do a full fluid change at once so at each oil change I remove & replace 1 quart of trans fluid. I've swapped out 2 quarts now over 8 k miles and so far so good. I think I'll just keep following this method for now.
Hey - How about a video on transfer case have pump rub holes- that truck will eventually get it but probably not till ~125k miles....
GMC Buick dealership will change the fluid/filter for $134.00 + tax.
@@missingremote4388 I would never bring a 20 year old truck to the dealership for fluid changes......
I took my 1995 suburban once. Full fluid, dif
fs transfer case and brakes. oil. 30,000 miles ago. It didn't need brakes... I had a bad experience. Chevy couldn't get the rear drums off.. I have the factory issue rear brake shoes still on X 25 years / 50,200 original miles
I have 240k on a 1998 k1500 with original fluid. Figure what's the point, it's already waaaaay past expected life.
Another school of thought - if the fluid is dirty but you aren't having problems then leave well enough alone. I've been told that by a transmission shop, they wouldn't even do simple fluid change on my Yukon. Was told the same by another guy who does rebuild. But, if you are having issues, you have nothing to lose by changing the fluid.
I just don't understand that... If the fluid is burnt and dirty and you're having no issues, flush it out! Why leave it? If you're having issues and you change the fluid, the issues may get worse but the new fluid didn't harm anything, it just revealed a real problem. Personally, I'd want to know about that sooner than later so it doesn't break down during a long road trip or something like that. That's just me though 👍👍
@@1RoadGarage the train of thought is that the burnt out material that's floating around in the dirty fluid is giving a transmission that has slipping clutches some extra grip and the process of changing it out uncovers the massive problem that was lurking all the time. A quick way to tell weather you have a problem lurking in the shadows is to pull up the service manual of your vehicle and see how long the transmission should take to engage. If it's longer that the specified time then the clutches have wear on them. This tip should be used in addition to the other usual signs of transmission wear.
I just did a drain on my Nissan Sentra 2005 today. It didn't have any issues and still doesn't have any issues, thank God. I was worried.
droped the trans pan in 2011 at 118k on my 97 gmc k1500 350 and just replaced that fluid and new delco filter, now at 160k trany is still great shifting,
I did this on a '78 Nova with 125k on it & could not believe how smooth it shifted after the flush & it ran & shifted like a tank up to the last day I drove it.
I agree.. Good for you man. I think changing trans fluid can only HELP, you lose so much flow etc on the old bad stuff.
The transmission fluid in my 29 year old "free" car was original as well, dropped the pan, changed the filter, cleaned it all up and put in new fluid and it has been driving great the past year. It also is a 3 speed hydraulically controlled transmission so it doesn't have all the nonsense electronic junk and no overdrive to fail. Less parts, less stuff to wear out and fail. Today's 8+ speed automatics are going to be a nightmare when they fail, and they will because if the internals don't fail first the electronics will and usually causes a limp mode where the vehicle is stuck in 1 gear or won't move at all. Adding more gears means the transmission is shifting more, creating more heat, slipping between gears (so many gears you just can't tell its slipping and shifting up and down hunting for the right gear).
Wow Great Video Jimmy. My 2002 Silverado 2500 HD just turned 80K. It has the Allison 5 speed. I've changed the fluid every 40K my self plus the external Filter every 10K. So far it's Bullet Proof. Thanks again. Bill
It didn't blow cause you did retighten the valve body bolts. Loose bolts fluid leakage out of the intended passage means the gear or band will not be held as firmly allowing slipping. And putting thicker fluid will reduce the amount of leakage and flow. But less flow will be required so it can be held more firmly.
With a pan drop and filter change done often enough it will eventually dilute the residual (converter) fluid not able to get drained the first time. Ultimately 99.99 % ( never a hundred since some of the original fluid will linger in ever decreasing amounts) of the fluid will be fresh when changed.
I have a 17 year old Hyundai with a well-maintained 50K on it. It drives great, but I plan on doing a 1 Road style DIY ATF flush this summer. Great update!!
I think most people are concerned on transmissions that have a lot more mileage than 78,000 miles this one has. Low mileage transmissions are not as worn and don't need the "grit" in the old oil to help with the friction. Try a high mileage transmission to see if you get the result most people are talking about.
only time i would not recommend a Fluid Flush, and or Filter change is if you transmission is already failing. that clunk could be a U-joint or a worn Differential.
Already flushed the diff and it looked good. I think the clunk is pretty normal for throwing it into drive.
It's probably the parking pawl disengaging.
@@monkeyX42792X , True, if that is the case then the E-brake needs to be used so the weight of the vehicle is not on the PArking Paw. I have had a few customers with worn Difs, and u-joint that cause that very issue. or them not using the ebrake
A trans Flush is when you run the vehicle while draining it to get all the fluid remaining it torque converter and so forth out. All you did was a ATF replacement.
Ok ; I have been a transmission mechanic for idk 40 years, that's what I do. If you so called "flush you trans" and it goes out, it was about done for anyway. The fresh slippery fluid might have hastened it, but the truth is, it was about spent anyway. Fluid & filter changes are always good maintenance. I always drop and clean the pan, replace the filter or in some cases filters, fill the pan w new fluid, hook my hoses to the cooler lines, I don't have a machine, start the engine and add the approximate quantity of fluid the trans is suppose to hold while it's running, that way you are getting most of the fluid out of the torque converter as well. some imports only have a drain plug, no pan, you have to disassemble the trans to get at the filter, so a drain & converter flush the same way is all you can do. Been working good for me.
PS; retorque to spec on the valve body bolts is not a bad idea either.
Appreciate the follow up!👍🏾 Love your videos💪🏾
Thanks!
I had the fluid changed out on a 1995 camry today. I hope it didn't screw the pooch and cause anything unwanted. The car has about 125,000 miles on it the fluid was a reddish brown. It drove home ok.
So was it ok?
I'm on my second 2001 Camry with the A140E four speed automatic. These have a drain plug. In my opinion, the best thing to do is just drain using the drain plug and then fill. About 2-1/2 quarts will come out with each drain, about 40 percent of the total fluid.. I use original Dex III, not a back compatible fluid like Dex VI. Back compatible fluids will work, but who knows if they really are beneficial or not? With just normal maintenance, people have gone way past 300,000 miles (500K km) with these vehicles using only dino (conventional) oil and OEM transmission fluid. How long a vehicle lasts has more to with maintenance and how it is driven than it does with anything else. I don't think what products you use makes much difference as long as they meet OEM specifications.
It's a year later. Is it still running?
The issue is not that changing the fluid breaks the transmission. The issue is, people wait until the transmission starts having issues to change the fluid. There is were you may wash out the clutch material that was barely keeping it going.
The most important factor to a ATF change is to do it only if the transmission is working flawlessly.
Its when your fluid smells really burnt is when your transmission is gonna start slipping, and that was a change.
I went to a transmission shop and get a service on my Mercedes E270cdi. It's a lot smoother now. But it's still not perfekt. Maybe because of some engine problem or a bad ECU chiptune. But its still a lot better than befor.
Ketil Lund Sørensen how much did you pay?
Good video Jimmy! Loved seeing Farris! Miss your old vlog channel.
You should in include mrs. 1road in more vids !!
Ya i bet ya get a lot more subscribers lol
I think everyone that’s watched it is thinking the same 😁👍
Make her the thumbnail. She's worth 10k subs easy.
Disgusting
WOW you got so excited you couldn't write a sentence! You might want to seek help with desires over another man's wife like that!
I also flushed and it improved considerably. The filter had clogged and ithe vehicle would literally stop on the road when changing gears.
Man I wish this video was out back when I bought my 95 Suburban back in 2012!!! I was told by a mechanic that it would destroy my transmission if I would have done a fluid flush and by my dumb ass listening to them I now have to replace the entire transmission in my truck, because I didn’t do the flush...smfh🤬
NEVER flush (sucks crap upward through the tube), it stirs up all the metallic particles and kills the transmission within 10-15K miles.
ALWAYS drop the pan to drain, replace the filter, clean the pan, new gasket, and refill with fresh trans fluid.
What he did was replace it (drain and refill), which is very difference from a flush which can and does damage the transmission.
Also really depends on miles from when it was changed and condition of trans. I just made a fatal mistake and did a drain and fill of the 195k mile Pathfinder. Drove great for 3k miles and then I blew a seal and basically needs a ton of work not worth doing.
Rich B I totally agree! 💯
Glad it worked for you! How much OLD fluid was still in Torque Converter? I heard there could be as much as a gallon? Very few converters have a drain plug. I suggest you get a vacuum fluid pump and suck out as much as you can, re-fill it. Do it twice after driving about 100 or so miles between. Then hope seals don't leak.
You didn’t really flush it, you did a replacement pretty much. Because the truck only has low miles there are many things that need to be replaced that are recommended from the factory after so many thousand miles. Timing chain about every 60 thousand miles and so fourth.
He did do a flush.
I had 250k miles in a 05 Tahoe with original trans bought it with 70k never changed fluid rest of truck sucked trans was great
you didn't like the engine?
good thing this vehicle has no transmission problems.
Idk how vehicles end up in the transmission shop.
Maybe poor maintenance or abused
because people drive a 4500-5500 lb truck like a racecar, and then blame the transmission for being weak.
No transmission lasts forever. 4l60e transmissions can last, but you don't want one built on a Monday. The clutches wear down under normal driving.
If you always buy low mileage or new vehicles, then you'll probably never have issues. (Except for a lemon)
What I would expect. Good tip on the bolts. Nice 'burban.
Other: One thing I thought I've noticed is manual downshifting messes up transmissions. I swear I've done this with two trucks and one car (to save brake heat and wear), and shortly afterward each had slippage symptoms. I just use the brakes now.
Brakes are always cheaper than trans.
Shifting is not the main issue. Most modern auto transmissions have only bushings instead of bearings. A full flush, using a flushing machine that sucks all the old fluid out can result in certain bearings running dry for awhile even after the refill. That's the problem with a full flush.
There's what, 4 quarts still in the converter? I think ya missed some.
He did a flush.
The ran engine while pouring fluid in with cooler line off. This was not a pan drop.
As long as fluid isn't burnt( burnt fluid means burnt clutches most likely)
You clearly didn't watch the first part... He let the tranny pump itself dry, filled back up, pumped dry again, then pulled the pan and filter. There is hardly any trace of old fluid in there now.
Nice engine sound! Addictive! Mrs F should be on more videos!
to be clear, flush would imply that you replaced the oil twice within a short amount of time, this was a fluid replacement, not a flush
Did this to my 1998 olds a month ago and replaced coil packs be sure to clean m.a.s. and throttle body and clean the egr next on my. To do list is spark plugs and wires new struts and shocks and shes all good
I think the best part was Ferris 😃
Haha me too
Thanks for the follow up vid Jimmy!
Yes sir!
I’m gonna see what happens. My fluid looks like oil (but not black) and there’s definitely metal build up. It took over a gallon of fluid after I purchased it, I’m assuming a previous driver didn’t check his fluids regularly. It’s got 255K on it so it’s not break-in particles on the magnet unless it’s never been changed before. I need to find torque specs to see about tightening my valve body bolts too.
Friend changed fluid. Drove to mi from Texas. Short time. Kept stopping. Wait few minutes would go. He changed front and rear pumps. Old 72 dodge small 6 auto. Asked a good trans guy. He said change filter again. New fluid It had loosened crud and was blocking filter. When car stopped crud woulf drop down and go again short way Changed the filter no more problems problems. This was in 1980
You are speaking of the Chrysler 904 three speed transmission, I believe. These and the larger 727 are the only one I have ever seen where the filter actually got plugged up. I have seen them refuse to move and then run perfectly again after a filter change. Your experience is not unusual for these units. It happens because of the material the filter is made of.
Adding Lubeguard is a good idea too. Helps breakup sludge and hold the viscosity if you stress the transmission towing etc.
Yup; LubeGard is one of a few good additives and is probably about the next best thing for regular fluids like Dex/Merc to top quality synthetic fluids like AMSOIL. As far as sludge & varnish, if your trans has much sludge & varnish it is probably already shot. I have had many auto transmissions & transaxles apart with 200,000+ miles on em with one broken component or bad clutch pak, and you wouldn't believe how clean they actually are inside. The sludge & varnish thing is kind of a marketing ploy by a lot of additive makers I think. Most properly blended ATF's are high detergent so do a good job of keeping things clean by themselves. That and you aren't burning fuels like in an engine that create carbon & deposits. Fluid & filter changes and trying not to get em too hot when pulling or hauling heavy loads or beating on em, like getting stuck in the mud or snow, most will last pretty good. From my own experience, if you get stuck, try to get a tow or get out a shovel, jack, winch or call a tow truck, or what ever you can come up with, because if your sit there and grind away trying to get out you can brake something or wreck your trans, axles or other driveline parts. Been there, done that myself. ha ha
Fluid exchanges or flushes are more dependent on mileage in stead of time and if any clunk was present more likely from u-joint and the smoother shift is probably due to the fluid and technology that goes into today's products far exceed yesterday's products
Guys, every car is different. Let him do what he wants if it runs fine and drives fine with no issues. The more you learn
Dont shops use a pressurized flushing machine that can be harmful to a transmission that has a lot of miles on it because of the pressure of the machine? Just turning on the vehicle for a few seconds to let the pump circulate the fluid for a few seconds at a time is different. The hard part is making sure fluid level is correct because it has to be at a certain temp (which is trickier without a scantool) and modern autos dont have dipsticks.
Yes, those flushing machines can cause all sorts of issues. What happens is they flush the old fluid out and run new fluid through the transmission which tends to break up any debris in all nooks and crannies of the transmission, and usually lodges those debris in the valve body and other tiny passages throughout the transmission causing shifting problems, burning up clutch packs, causing solenoids not to function making the transmission possibly not shift at all, shift very harshly, get stuck in a certain gear, etc.
Best thing to do is just drop the transmission pan change the filter and top off with new fluid...no it doesn't get all the old fluid out but it also doesn't damage your transmission.