Doing This Will DESTROY YOUR TRANSMISSION!!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 มิ.ย. 2019
- Doing This Will DESTROY YOUR TRANSMISSION!!
Because I had such good results with a transmission fluid flush on my 1995 Suburban 4L60E I decided to do the same to my 2003 Suburban. Both vehicles have similar mileage and both have the 4L60E. The '95 is just, obviously, much older.
Well, the results are in... Did I blow it up?
Valvoline Max Life Synthetic ATF: amzn.to/2WWlqVb
Oil Drain Pan: amzn.to/2Frh8dJ
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As an automatic transmission repair shop owner operator, I can tell you this. The vast majority of people do not service their transmission when they should or even ever. The people who experience failures after a flush were the same ones who did the flush because they were already experiencing problems and wanted it to fix their issues. Transmission fluid is a great cleaning agent and when you send it through a transmission that has large amounts of sediment throughout, it can break it loose and send it into valves that have no tolerance for it. Fluid changes are preventative maintenance, not a recipe for disaster. Do it! Look in your owner's manual and find what the intervals are. You don't want to find yourself towed to my shop, it's rarely inexpensive.
As a mechanic, I would also agree with this advice but these days, don't trust your owner's manuals default drive maintenance schedule. Ford, Lincoln, Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Fiat, BMW, Volvo, etc... all will tell you to not worry about changing your transmission fluid until 150K miles, or for the life of the transmission. Some will say that you never need to change it. This is absolute hogwash. If you plan to keep your car longer than 2 or 3 years, then you should be changing your fluid at least every 20-30K miles. If you've hit something like 45K miles and still haven't changed it, don't think that if you change it now, it will cause your transmission to eat itself... You're likely fine. However, if you follow the maintenance schedule in your owners manual and wait until 150+K miles to change it, well, you're asking for trouble, and you'll be lucky if you make it another 50K miles. As @howlinhog mentioned, there is likely sediment, deposits, and other crud in there that will certainly get freed up and make it's way into your transmission valve body, which can fail it. Even worse, if the sediment in your fluid was acting as a friction supplement to your worn out clutch-packs, your transmission could start to slip once all that's left is clean, sediment free fluid.
Manufacturers want you to believe that their vehicles are low maintenance compared to everyone else but the truth is, mechanics and physics is well, mechanics and physics. Their standard service schedules aren't going to change that. The better maintenance schedule is often the fleet schedule. Fluid changes and flushes prevent issues, they don't usually solve them.
@brianbutts575 Ŵell said friend. Many times maintenance recommendations are no more than a marketing scheme. Engine oil is a good one. Although engine oil needs to have good lubricating qualities, one of its major functions is to keep particles that occur from burning gasoline suspended until they can reach the oil filter. Nobody gets to not have that happen no matter what the engine oil is made from or how good it is. People need to stop believing this crap about longer engine oil intervals when you're still burning the same old fuel.
i have a 2010 ford f150 4.6l v8. it runs super smooth. bought off private seller. i want to flush it but scared it will mess it up. should I do it? should i check the fluid first and see before doing anything?
@@fliptop555 Do the service. No matter what, if it hasn't been done, it needs to be done! You don't necessarily have to do a flush, but at least do a filter and fluid change. If there is damage inside your trans due to neglect it will rear it's ugly head sooner or later no matter what you do. Removing the pan and taking apart the filter to look inside will tell quite a bit. Even professional shops don't take the extra step of taking apart the filter and cutting the filter membrane to look inside. If you've ever owned a bag style vacuum, you know that pulling the bag out and throwing it in the trash has revealed nothing about its contents. If you want to know what's in it you have to cut it open and spread it out.
@@howlinhog thank you! I will be checking all of that soon. If it's burnt up I will stick to doing a change and replace the filter and fluid in pan only
I work in a Transmission shop, and the best thing you can do for your trans is change the filter and fluid.
Whats your opinion on changing the "lifetime" fluid that comes in the ZF 8 speed transmissions found in chrysler products?
Even if it's never been changed on a high mileage car?
@@JonDoe-007 The reasoning behind the belief that changing very old transmission fluid is bad, lies in the method used. For several decades (and still common today) the method of choice was to use a "flush" machine. This method involves hooking up the machine to the transmission cooling lines. The machine then forces or "pressures" new fluid in and in doing so forces or "pressures" old fluid out. Now its important to understand that this has been done problem free probably millions of times. It is by far the most common method and 99% of the time works great. What can happen (in the right circumstance) is more a result of negligence and lack of maintenance. Very old transmission fluid (never been changed or rarely) will have clutch material and other metals from normal wear. Things like vehicle age, type of use, driving style, average temperature, and quality of transmission will all affect how much. But rest assured EVERY transmission (auto or manual) wears down. This "material" is ideally caught in the transmission filter or in many transmissions, on magnets (usually built into the pan) or both. But since filters don't last forever and can only hold so much debris, very old (or poorly maintenanced) filters are of course less effective. The two scenarios where "flushing" could be detrimental are these. By using the flush machine and forcing fluid through the valve train (which looks like a miniature corn maze with very narrow passages) there's a chance that a piece of debris could end up blocking (either fully or partially) one of the passages. This can result in shifting problems or other performance issues. The second scenario (and IMO the more likely) is someone never changes transmission fluid on their vehicle. The transmission is already worn out and is on its last legs. Then the person starts to notice the first small signs of transmission problems. They begin to experience harsh shifts or some slipping on steep hills ect. In response they decide to have the fluid changed (maybe first time in 15 years). The trouble is that the old fluid has so much debris in it, that the debris actually helps the clutches grab. Imagine putting your hands into water and rubbing them together, pretty easy not much resistance or friction right?. Now imagine dumping some sand into the water and stirring it around. When you rub your hands together this time, you feel the sand between your hands. The sand will create extra friction and makes your hands "stick" together a little more. For those few who have experienced one (or possibly a combo of both) of these scenarios, they are left angry and with an expensive repair bill. In there mind getting the change was a terrible idea that ruined there transmission. The truth of course is that at that point the transmission was inevitably going to fail... the flush exasperated an existing problem. These types of scenarios wouldn't happen if people did proper maintenance and 95% of the time the fault is a neglectful owner. Bad news travels fast and hard so the rumors of flushes causing problems spread fast and hard. Therefor the frequency of this scenario is probably greatly exaggerated. If you ask a transmission shop how often they have encountered this outcome, my guess would be not often. Today alot of shops have a different machine known as an "EXCHANGE" machine. Rather than hooking up to your cooling lines it simply places a wand into your pan (usually through your fill plug). The machine then pumps in 1 liter of fluid.... then pumps out 1 liter. This machine relies on your vehicles transmission pump to continue moving fluid. Over about 30-45 mins it pumps in/out around 15 liters of fluid. There is no added "pressure" since its your own pump moving the fluid. This method could help in the first scenario of not blocking a valve train passage. But the second scenario would be no different as your still changing all your fluid
@@jonh2408 life time is NOT the entire life of the car. Manufacturers idea of 'lifetime' is till the next model comes out... ALWAYS SERVICE THE TRANS OIL!
Indeed been working on cars since the 1970s 👍
Great work! I feel really lucky having the knowledge of flushing fluids for quick improvements! Lots of people give up on good used cars or pay thousands at dealerships for replacments when a flush (brakes, tranny, fuel, coolant, oil) can make all the difference!
great topic and you are right to have done these services. I've been a technician for 10+ years, worked on cars all my life and what I have found is. the complexity of an automatic transmission scares people, so alot of technicians will do services on them never actually understanding how they really work. I am naturally curious and need to know how everything works so I can see how something failed, why it failed and how to stop it from failing again. what I have concluded in my experience is that there are 3 scenarios that have caused misconceptions in the entire industry. first one someone comes in for a trans flush, the tech doing the flush doesn't understand how the transmission works and proceeds to backflush the transmission causing on some cars the filter to pop out or lose it's seal at the top of the filter. tech is done with the flush but vehicle won't move so tech thinks trans is toast, but actually it's just sucking air because the filter is popped off. next scenario tech flushes trans and gunk gets jammed in the valve body causing valves to stick. trans then gets driven with sticking valves until it eats its own clutches. next scenario the tech flushes the trans but it was already dead before it came in and the clutch material suspended in the fluid was the only thing allowing enough friction for it to grab gears. trans flush machines are only useful to clean trans coolers unless they have a dipstick service function where you pull the fluid out the dipstick hole. best way to service is to do a pan service with a new filter or a drain and fill/dipstick service. your transmission will thank you.
Excellent!
No comment about how the flush was done in the video! a COMPLETE 90% flush for a tranny means TC fluid is changed also. This is how you do it without harm.
@@yosquidd242 how much fluid is replaced makes no difference harm wise. the manner in which the flush is done is what can cause harm. I would rather do a flush twice and do it safely then do it once in an unsafe manner. also remember a shop like say one I used to work at, would charge for a 7qt flush to keep the cost competitive. but how much does your transmission hold? could be as much as 10 or even 15 qts so did they really flush 90% of the fluid? theres a lot of shops that do this but might be set at different capped amounts. fluids can be expensive and people tend to be cheap so they get away with this kind of thing all the time.
There is no such thing as a "back-flush". Any shop or mechanic who says they can do a back flush is either a complete moron or a criminal. The filter pops off? Damn dude, sounds like your experience came from your couch.
I did this on a 1992 Volvo, and it turned out well.
I spent most of my career rebuilding auto transmissions and the best thing you can do for your transmission is to flush the fluid every now and again.
I have a 2002 Saturn SL2 I took it to Pep Boys to try and do a transmission oil and filter change but they told me they highly recommend that I do not do it because then the transmission will be ruined because I have over a hundred thousand miles on the car, are the mechanics at Pep Boys correct?
@@andrewmanzi2969 there not mechanics. If you think they are your very wrong
@@andrewmanzi2969 - take it to an auto trans specialist and they will look after it.
@@andrewmanzi2969 Only 100,000 miles on it? Change it! Pretty sure the Saturn's have an external spin-on trans filter just like an oil filter. You can likely do it yourself. Idk if they have a drain plug. If they do, DIY. Regardless, definitely change it and change it now!
I'm your professional opinion on an old 98 z28 auto with 152k and no idea when the last tranny service was but the fluid isn't filthy what recommendations would you have? She shifts well driving but does take a moment to shift from park to D or between D and R however she's always shifted like this since I owned it @ 98k and acted consistent since 2010 when I bought her.. She's had 8 owners I believe lol well used car but the only car I've never had break down or have a check engine.
My dad was a transmission expert we had the discussion on transmission Flushing. He told me if the transmission screws up after you change the fluid it was screwed up before you change the fluid. Doing what you did is good for the transmission. Nice video I will be doing the same to my Silverado
was screwed up before you changed. makes since to me.
yep hes not wrong. what happens is said fluid was gritty/thick so the transmission was holding on because of that. so sometimes its better to just not touch it if it has not been done and your way up in the millage as they can hold out for quite some time if its already really bad.
The reason is all the metal and clutch material in the fluid is acting like a friction modifier. If your clutches and steels are trashed the only thing keeping it shifting is the grit in the oil . Change the oil loose the grip slip city
@lemon diesel the out come is the same if the fluid you are removing is full of metals from the clutch ,and you replace enough of the fluid to remove the grit that is holding on the car then it will slip. Its where the the transmission flush ruined my tranny that was still shifting fine storys come from. If you change your fluid early enough it doesnt matter what you use its just that a flush removes almost all of it.where a simple drain does about 20% or so at a time in alot of automatic trans. so it can take a good bit of drains and refills to get a similar result
yes
Great video!! I have a 2003 F150 with the 4R70 trans. It’s got 282k+ on it. I have the trans serviced about every year and a half (actually, it’s about due), and keep the engine oil & filter changed. I’m the original owner and the truck runs fantastic! MAINTENANCE IS THE KEY!!
I have always said that good maintenance starts with replacement of ALL the fluids! Thanks for bringing into light about not only doing a trans filter swap, but also a flush!
I do all my fluids every year. Yes, even the transfer case and differential
Jimmy, Great video. I've been an ASE Certified Master transmission specialist since 1980 and here's what I've observed during the course of my career. Few, if any, people simply to decide to change/flush their transmission out of the clear blue unless they suspect something is going on. I've seen both changing and/or flushing a transmission go both ways... improvement and failure. The change/flush has nothing to do with a failure unless the procedure was botched, to begin with. The way the urban legend got started was when a change/flush was performed on a transmission already in the process of impending doom. I can count on ONE HAND how many times this process caused the failure of a good working transmission and all of them have to do with fluid starvation. One was run low on fluid from a leaking pan gasket and the others had to do with leaving the filter seal off and the pump sucking air, both of which cases were (like I said) botched jobs to begin with. I have NEVER seen a properly performed change or flush do damage to a perfectly good working transmission. Never.
It took me quite a few years to learn that when somebody asks me for a fluid change or flush, I respond with the question, "What's the transmission doing?" No matter the answer, I ALWAYS road test the vehicle and scan it for codes before we ever bring it into the shop. There have been literally100s of times the road test reveals a transmission malfunction and/or error fault code(s).
Lastly, you may find this hard to believe, but both of your Suburbans can have a harsh shifting problem that has nothing to do with the transmission. A restricted fuel filter (hidden & mounted on the frame rail) will cause harsh and/or late shifts due to fuel starvation. It may also set a lean engine code. Although we only do transmissions, we stock Chev & GMC fuel filters just for that reason. I've seen transmissions replaced/rebuilt by DIYers just for that reason. Because a fuel filter slowly becomes restricted over time, the driver unconsciously gives the vehicle a heavier foot for the same acceleration. The TPS picks up the heavy throttle signal and delays/harshens the shift, as it is designed to do. Just a word to the wise.
I had a GMC dealer drain and refill the transmission and transfer transmission on my all wheel drive 2010 GMC Acadia at 90,000 miles. The service manual says "check" transmission fluid. I thought I was doing the right thing by changing the fluid. 10 days later a soft whine developed above 40 mph. GMC dealer said transmission is shot. Got second opinion from another GMC dealer who said transfer case transmission is shot. I have been driving with soft whine for 23,000 miles. Shifts as before, just fine. The whine sound is the same. Is there a fix?
Thanks for that tip, a fuel filter is an easy,smart thing to replace.gas tanks do accumulate crud, dust, guck, ect.
Thanks for the advice! You are Awesome!!
Well if you are ASE certtified in automatic transmissions then yo I would know that running the engine with no return fluid is running the lubrication circuit dry and starving the bushings, Torrington bearings etc.
This is NOT an approved method of "flushing" an automatic transmission.
😳
Im on it! Thanks for the heads up!👍
This is EXCELLENT advice!
When my transmission gave up on me on a highway, the first fear was I needed a transmission job.
Based on a friend's advice. I drained the transmission the exact way presented here. Turns out the filter was also quite blocked.
It's been about 2 years, shifts great!
I'm buying the next Honda I see with a bad auto and trying this. I already have 2 could just become parts cars but what's not to lose.
@@dumpsterstu4474 It's not going to help a Honda transmission...
The problem with most of those transmissions (BX7A)
Is the screens in the valve body separator plate get clogged up and this restricts the fluid flow to the clutch packs and then those clutches burn up...
That's what happens to those vehicles...
👍
If the filter was blocked up as you say how did it become unblocked? and what was the filter blocked up with? Your claim is suspect at best. JMHO
@@jamieweisler6309 Honda auto trans filters are internal and not a serviceable part. They become clogged over time with clutch material. Regular trans service will make them last longer.
@@mikevee9145 As a 40 transmission rebuilder this I understand. The point I was making was he said he "unclogged" the filter which is impossible and if the filter was "clogged" then it is clogged with internal material such as clutch material (usually torque converter clutch) as you say. And flushing will not cure that..
Just a tip for removing the drain plug bolt, I tack welded a nut to the bolt which gave me more material to grab a hold of and replaced it with a bigger headed drain plug bolt. When draining from the plug I removed 5 quarts. It is the same transmission.
I've been flushing automatic transmissions for many years. My method differs in that I refill the trans at the first sign of aeration in the fluid. I modifed a 20lb propane cylinder, welding in a bung for a schrader valve, pressure gauge, and another bung for filling with ATF. I changed the original valve and soldered in a 3/8 tube to reach the bottom of the tank. Then, using 15 psi air pressure, I start the engine and replace the same amount of fluid that was removed . As soon as bubbles appear, the cycle is repeated. It probably takes a couple extra quarts doing this, but I liked that thought that I was getting a superior flush on the converter. I've had many automatic cars and trucks over the years and have always had good results using this method. Good video young man.
Well done! Well explained. Thank you for your courage....I think you have displaced the myth of damaging a transmission by doing a flush. Viewers, please note: this was not a "power flush" which is a service offered at quick lube stations. I believe that technique can cause debris to get into the valve body, thus causing shifting issues. I believe this method is a gentle and efficient way to flush the old fluid out, without creating a "cloud" of friction material to be deposited into the valve body of the transmission.
Right...I like to think of it as with every flush I add miles to the life of the transmission...One main reason why transmission service is so important..It is rarely shared because most people don't know it....Not many transmission shops know what they are doing and they do a lousy job of rebuilding transmissions...So the fact is you are doing yourself a large by changing the trans fluid every 2 or 3 years..
Great video! Glad you had positive results. I was a Ford mechanic back in the 90s and the only time I had a issue with a transmission fluid change on a car with really dirty fluid was were the mechanical governor on the output shaft would get stuck after adding clean fluid. The device was a set of small valves that would open and close from the centrifugal forces dependant on speed. That design has been replaced by computer controlled solenoid valves. Basically the clean fluid would clean out all the sludge that accumulated and cause the valves to stick. The fix as to keep changing the fluid till the piston could move freely. I imagine the newer electronic solenoid could get stuck in the same manner, but the problems i have had were never catastrofic. I'm sure others have experienced the same phenomenon and assumed the trans was fried. The shop i worked at at the time never did a power flush with a machine. I guess the best thing to do is just change before the fluid is completely oxidized and degraded.
Absolutely!!! The protection that a fluid provides declines from the day it's poured in. There comes a point where the performance and protection has degraded some and it isn't spectacular anymore, and the cost to replace it is justified. That is usually 30k miles conventional and 50k miles synthetic with automatic transmission fluids. The point is NOT to wait until the fluid is absolutely destroyed and not protecting the transmission at all. The point is to replace degraded non-optimal fluid with brand new fluid that is as good as can be. Can you do a full exchange every 5,000 miles with each engine oil change? Yeah, but it would be a waste. 30k and 50k are good general rules of thumb for the point where the fluid is not so great anymore but hasn't degraded SO much that it's allowing damage to occur. Heat ruins transmission fluid. 190*F is the standard operating temp of an auto trans, and much over 200*F increases oxidation which is what produces the sooty particulate that makes fluid look opaque and dark. Burnt fluid that has lived life overheated all the time is not good at lubricating and it has bad friction properties. All ATFs nowadays are highly friction modified. If you destroy the friction modifying compounds, the clutches and bands will wear significantly faster than they ought to. Very important to keep fresh fluid in the unit to prevent that. The old fluid should be red and if you do a UOA, it should test at the marginal end of still being good. If it tests bad, you waited too long. If it's dark and oxidized, you need an auxiliary cooler installed.
Why didn't you guys just remove the cover or tail housing for the governor and replace or clean it and clean its housing chamber? A sticking governor sure could cause some annoying issues for sure... :(
@@mannys9130 it was a fwd Taurus and it there was now way to get to that shaft, easily. All I needs do do was do another drain and refill. I recall one that needed an additional two drain and refill. After that the transmissions shifted like new and the fluid was nice and clean. The transmissions of that period would never see 100000 miles with the original fluid.
I had a Ford with a C4 and it had a drain plug on the converter.
@@terrypetty9822loo Kik no km Kiki
I had a 99 Cherokee with a billion miles on it and I did a similar flush with the transmission. I drove that truck till the day I sold it to a friend who kept it for years longer and never had an issue at all. The vehicle simply rusted around until it was a flint stone truck but it ran great. The 4L straight 6 matched with the 4 speed automatic was a great set up.
Hi Jimmy Thank you for this video. I had learned that most mech I know would only take out half of the transmission oil and fill the half back up with new oil. But I also know people who did the same as you and never had issues. It’s like you said every vehicle is different. Great video Thank you for your time in creating it. We all learned something new.
When you bathe at home, do you also drain only half of the dirty water from the bathtub?
Flushed my fluid in my 1988 grand Marquis and shifts perfectly fine
Excellent demo Jimmy, you did the job perfect. Soon as the bubbles appeared, you switched off the engine, 👌🏻. I did the same trick to my sister's Toyota camry. She rang me a week later to say her transmission has never changed so smoothly since she purchased the vehicle in 2009. The old transmission oil was black & had a vile smell like it was burnt. Anyway amigo, cheers from 🇦🇺👍🏻👌🏻.
Great video, best advice. I have used this method for many decades. I'm 76, have never had a problem with changing ATF, regular maintenance extends the life of the automatic transmission. AT about $3500 for a transmission, it's smart to keep up with maintenance. ATF is not a lifetime fill, it has to be changed on a regular basis, about every 35,000 to 45,000 miles, read your MFG recommendations in your vehicle owner's manual. Dirty degraded ATF can cause damage and reduce the life of a transmission.
SO well said!!!
Wait wait WAIT, are you telling me that transmissions are like anything else that uses oil and that unless its already messed up that changing the oil will not hurt it but actually prevent problems? Thats crazy! You single handedly disproved all the idiots!
Yea Jimmy since your a perfectionist your not lucky you did both cars to perfection with research to specs with using great sense on the gasket point blank .great video great work .
Think about it this way: a fluid change will not damage any parts. The condition of the parts of your transmission is what it is.
Here is where people get that idea: if the clutch of your automatic transmission is worn down, and you have never changed your transmission fluid, all the particles from your clutch are in that fluid, thus making it thicker, and "grippier." That may give your clutch just enough friction to engage.
Flushing or changing your transmission fluid at this point rids all of those loose particles, thus causing problems.
If you change your transmission fluid, and then you have more problems than before, your transmission was damaged before the fluid change.
Just get some Lucas to add in with the new fluid
Perfect Prime Example
That is exactly what happened to me and our 2004 Suburban. 150k on the clock, changed the fluid and filter and a few months later the transmission exploded. We ended up putting in a rebuilt Jasper transmission with a lifetime warranty.
Vicious LS Gun modern synthetics are formulated to not require additives
@@BlitzkriegProjects that's true. But if you're having issues with gears slipping, try some Lucas Stop Slip. It worked for me. And if a $9 fluid can save your transmission and give you time to save up the $ to have the tranny serviced (or buy another vehicle if you're not attached to the current one that has issues) then I would call that a win. Mine is a DCT transmission, and is far more expensive to service, so I have changed my tranny fluid four times to do a "gentle flush" and then added in about 8oz of lucas to this last change (using the same fluid in this video, Valvoline Max Life) and my transmission is doing a heck of a lot better. I still need to change my Torque Converter and first two gears & bearings plus the input shaft bearing, but I gave myself some time to save up the $1k+ that this requires, or learn to do it myself at home. Either way, it's going to take a while, so I wanted to give my car a good shot at survival. Each time I changed the fluid, I drove it about a thousand miles. So the additives could do their thing. Before my last fluid change I ran a pint of Seafoam Hydra Trans Fix stuffs for about two hundred miles (170miles more than I should've yes) and then changed the fluid. Before adding this cleaner the fluid was a medium light pink/red, and after the chemical flush it was black. I'll need to change it out one more time to get the cleaner out, but then I'm good for 60k miles. That's my story, with an 02' Hyundai XG350 L. I hope you have as much success as I've had. Peace
On a sealed transmission like most new cars where you cannot change the transmission oil filter there really isn't ever a need to do a transmission flush a drain and fill every 30 to 60,000 mi is perfectly fine in fact it's pretty much doing the same thing. Personally I do mine every 30. Also I will say it is even more important to change your transmission fluid more often on sealed transmissions because of the fact that you cannot change the transmission oil filter so you want to keep that filter as clean as possible by simply changing the fluid.
You are absolutely right ! I change my trans fluid at 30,000 miles on a Dodge ram 2014, that oil came out black, black, i means black ! at only 30.000 miles. The manual say it to change it at 100.000 miles, incredible ! We do the second change at 60.000 miles and it running better than New, i put Amsoil oil, and it awesome.
Ummmm…..the oil was black after 30,000 miles? You have something going on as that is not normal. I’m going to guess that you do a lot of heavy towing.
When reconnecting the cooler line, I would recommend putting the clip in place first, then pushing the cooler line back in place. You can feel/hear it click into place. Otherwise the line might not be all the way back in. Good video.
Ya there was many engines destroyed after an oil cooler line blew out after service.
It’s best to replace the clip. I have had them break in the past.
Is this the same with the 4l80e line too? Put the clip on metal line first then push back into place...?
@@woodworm3615 yes they r all the same. Make sure u have a good pick handy for this job.
@@scottm4463 Your doing something really wrong if your breaking the clip...
They are made from stainless steel...
Great video! Flushing your transmission fluid is a great thing to do to keep your transmission in good healthy condition! And it is absolutely fine to do in pretty much any vehicle, the only way it will cause your transmission to slip is if your clutches are already burnt to heck in witch case you already need a rebuild anyways. I’ve been doing it for years using basically the same method and I’ve never had any problems whatsoever. The only time I would recommend not* to flush your trany fluid is if the fluid is like straight black and/or your already having some issues with it slipping. In that case my recommendation would be to leave it be and rebuild it as soon as you can.
I've done hundreds of flushes, without any problems. The trans pumps the fluid out to the flush machine, you return filtered fluid back in. It's not doing anything the trans isn't already doing. Maybe some tech's get careless or work too fast, and are not paying attention and run the trans dry while flushing...
Thank you. Well said.
The problem is the passages are like a maze and sometimes when you flush them it knocks the gunk loose and gets plugged up in the tiny passage bends and twists causing problems. It is more likely on high mileage vehicles with original fluid that has been neglected.
Just finished my flush on the transmission, 2002 Chevy suburban 272,000 MI so far put a hundred miles shifting like a dream, running strong thanks for the tip. that transmission fluid was like my engine oil after 10k miles
Thanks for the video Jimmy. So much easier than dropping the pan and getting fluid everywhere; not to mention you get all the old fluid out.
All family members approved... nice work
I've experienced that keeping good fluid or change before the particles get bad is always best with these gm vehicles. I've been through 4 transmissions but after cleaning and flushing this current transmission is been in the best shape for the longest time. Just as said by others, if you swap fluid and it runs worse...you waited too long, and the damage is done.
I love your Suburban videos. Still tracing some similar voltage problems on my 99 but I'll hopefully get that figured out when she comes back out in spring haha.
I think you have had good results because the 4L60Es are very simple, and easier to service, whereas new cars have a lot more computer-y intake/throttle stuff linked with the transmissions. GMT400/GMT800s were the last of the simplistic trucks and are held in high regard because of it. I know I've always loved my 400s.
You did a great job on the video. Yes i have been that and had a good explanation. But this was in the 70s. A friend and transmission rebuilder showed a transmission on his table, the clutches were packed with junk.he said a customer had changed the fluid and in started slipping because the new fluid had cleaned the clutches enough to cause it to slip.
It's the number one thing to do if you wanna prolong the life of your transmission. Everybody changes oil in there engine but very rarely do they change the trans fluid
What kind of geniuses think tans dont need oil change? I full-drain and put Motul CVTF in my 12 year old honda fit every 30K KMs.
The forgotten fluids: Transmission, differential, power steering, brake fluid, and sometimes anti freeze.
@@thk7513 windshield wiper fluid
@@thk7513 blinker fluid
@@thk7513 Not here. I just put fresh fluid in my transmission and differential. When I get my hands on more money, I want to bleed my brakes and power steering...coolant's fine.
You're wonderful. I loved the fast clear, concise, non-stop information. I was not bored in the least way as you completely held my attention. I didn't know trans fluid could be changed this way. Though it doesn't really apply with the method you used, I'd like to add that I've seen the problems crop up when immediately after refilling the guy jumps right in the car, fires up the engine, races it up and moves the gear shifter through the different positions. After I refill it I go have lunch or just wait a half hour before starting the engine. This allows for the new fluid to seep back into the tiny orifices and such thus adverting a massive rush of fluid blasting into an empty transmission.
The fluid is all held in a pan under the major working parts. No seeping really occurs. The valve body is submerged, but it is all sealed up very tightly with gaskets and O-rings. Definitely don't start it up and then rev it up and start shifting IMMEDIATELY after servicing it. Gotta give it time to reprime and refill the torque converter. But letting it sit won't help anything. If you want to refill things gently, pull the spark plug boots or the power connectors, or pull the fuel pump relay and depressurize the fuel rail. Then crank the engine in 15 second intervals which will refill the filter, pump, torque converter, and working chambers of the transmission's valve body. Do that 3-4 times. 15 seconds cranking, then 5 minutes resting and cooling the starter. Then you can start her up and wait 30 seconds and be totally confident that everything is very well lubed and refilled. No doubt whatsoever remaining at that point. 😸
@@mannys9130 That's a sensible method you have and I'm glad to have read it.
The times that I've changed trans fluid as written in my first comment above, I hadn't drained the converter, and that's why the waiting method had worked for me. So I was just doing the standard pan-off, replace filter, and refill.
My point in waiting is to advert a massive rush of fluid that can dislodge debris and clog the valve body. But I think you know that.
Thank you! Simple logic. Meanwhile some big TH-camrs release the same video about ruining transmissions over and over again to scare people.
Liker-Subscriber-Notifier here. Great Videol I did the very same thing to my "new to me" 2007 GMC Envoy w/ 125k miles on it and same 4L60E trans - also with a hard 1-2 shift. Trans fluid was black and burnt smelling! I also jacked up the body, and ran the trans through its gears to make sure that the TCC was flushed. Used OEM compatible fluid and genuine OEM Filter. This vehicle has never shifted so smooth ever!!! "BUTTERY SMOOTH SHIFTS" - I've put another 100k miles on it - and still shifting smooth (but I did flush it again at 50k of use (175k miles)) Also - you can get a large catch pan from any Big Box store for mixing mortar for $8 - great for these jobs. Keep up the great videos - Thank You Jimmy!!!
Thank you.
You have a nice family, God bless you all
A passive flush, like you did, is great. Flushing a transmission with pressure can put contaminates where you don’t want them and cause problems.
That happens if you wait to long to do it. If you do it when recommended or before recommended you won’t have an issue with flushing with pressure.
But the machines only flush at the same pressure as the internal pump.
🎯
@@Bikerboythousand he uses a leaf blower
@@whosspyingonme I took out a TH350 once after hitting taco bell for lunch.
I've heard this forever. "Don't replace the old fluid. It's magical. It doesn't matter that it's dirty and old." Your advice makes far more sense.
Beautiful American truck.
I'm not sure if on your vehicle it has an adaptive transmission, but a good line of thought is, once you flush the transmission, reset the adaptive values using a good code reader.
Now in some workshop manuals, they have a procedure, just look up the ZF gearbox procedure, it takes time. In others, you just reset and over time, your transmission will relearn. In reality, transmissions never stop learning.
Great video, straight to the point.
Not a bad way to do this. Better way is to take the return line off the transmission, use the same clear hose and attach to the return line and place in a ketch pan next to the driver's door. You can see the fluid coming out from under the car below the driver's door, so you can keep an eye on it in the driver's seat and turn the key off the second you see bubbles. Pump the fluid out once and then drop the transmission pan while it is low on fluid, clean the pan and replace the filter. Then reinstall the pan and fill with fresh fluid. From there keep starting until you see bubbles, stopping and refilling with fresh fluid until it comes out clean and fresh in the clear hose the reattach the line to the transmission. This process also reduces wasted fresh fluid that is lost from dropping the pan when it is full of fresh fluid.
I did exact this on my 2003 Ford expedition 5.4l 4x4, I flush transmission fluid just like you did two years ago, at that time my exp was on 130k mileage, same brand as Valvoline high miles, now my exp reach 185k mileage... I had my exp since I buy it at 90k mileage, never had transmission fail or rebuilt... And it still drive stronger and tow too...
Jimmy you're a sensational orator! Fantastic job with this video.
I use a refrigerator compressor as a vacuum pump and set up a large glass jar as a catch tank. Using tygon tubing it sucks all the fluid out of the pan by way of the dip stick tube and into the jar. Just add about 4 quarts back in. So clean and easy you will do this every 4th oil change. Also works for lawn mowers, injector pump reservoirs, and anything else that needs to be sucked out.
Let me enlighten you on why your situation worked out fine.
It has to do with the mileage on ur vehicles. You first one has 70k miles. So then you was safe to do the flush. If your vehicle had 200k miles and that was the 1st time you changed it, then you likely could have damaged it further. It boils down to the clutch material being so degraded into the fluid, that it actually still helps. Then when you put in new fluid on those worn pads, you no longer have any traction to your clutch pads. So there you go boss hope this clears things up for you.
Yeah, experience with a couple of high mileage Towncars taught me that lesson. I changed filters too. Mileage is definitely the key difference. If you are lucky, you can get another 5-10k miles from Lucas in the new fluid.
same ,l ruined my 96 Cadillac by changing the fluid ,it had 130,000 on it .Has i left it alone it might have gone to 200,000 or so
Exactly. I just said this before seeing this.
My 400k 42re Jeep transmission disagrees.. it doesnt like when the fluid goes old and orange.. a full flush through the cooler lines.. brings it back.. hense 400k miles.
Other Jeep has 216k same thing.. 3rd 151k miles.. same thing. I dont believe that
Have heard what you're saying from many a good mechanic. Agree.
Wife AND daughter approved? You, my friend, ARE the winner!😎
In my case, the 4T80e of my 2006 Cadillac DTS was dangerously low in fluid, I refilled it with Castrol Transmax Full Synthetic Transmission Fluid (Just over 7 Quarts). Now it runs like a Jet. Kudos to you, GM Brother 👍.
Used to own a Land Rover Discovery with the ZF 4HP22 auto.
Had 380,000km when I got it.
Trans fluid was dark brown verging on black.
I didn't do a full flush, but did a drain and fill then a few hundred km later did it again, then at each oil change for the next half dozen or so.
Shifted soooo much better afterwards!
What kills an older trans is when a shop talks you into a flush and they use a chemical to clean it out. This WILL kill one fast! I worked at a GM dealership and seen the Winns Trans Flush kill just about every one with in weeks. As per this video, I agree. Just use new oil and replace the filter!
About time someone else here who knows the issues.
Yep. I've always thrown the additive bottles in the trash full. The transmission was built for transmission fluid, not Winns/MOC additive. Changing the chemistry is playing with fire. I'll flush the system, but won't put any additives in there.
I flushed my 4l60e and changed the 1-2 plastic shift accumulator with a metal "sonnax" pinless accumulator
Much better shifting.. huge difference
That only affects the 1-2 shift not the others.
I have that same sonnax kit have yet to put it in. Finally have time with this quarantine stuff.
I own a 2002 SAAB 9-5 with 150,000 miles. It runs great. I perform a transmission flush every 60,000 miles according to the SAAB Factory Service Manual. There is no warrantee void warning or limit, listed in the Service Manual, to the number of transmission flushes that can be safely performed on the vehicle. Great video. Cheers.
Did someone claim that there is a restriction on oil flushing??? Where do people get it? Where does he go for it?
I did the same thing to my 93 S-10 blazer with a 4L60E that had 140,000+ miles on it. It now has 306,000 miles, is on its 4th engine and the transmission is original. It even tows a tilt trailer with a New Holland L170 skidsteer occasionally.
Great job Jimmy ! Glad you made this very helpful video. Keep up the great work. Bill
Thank you
Just did this to my 2003 Yukon XL. I used 5/8" OD tubing but had to jam in there pretty good. Had a harder time getting clip back on then off. Thanks for all your videos!
I understand that the clip should be placed on the line then click it back in. 😉
I can attest to this somewhat. I have always changed my transmission fluids myself since i started driving back in 95. I never flushed like you did but would change the filter every 3 to 4 years and once a year changed the pan fluid so it was a gradual cleaning. I never had any issues either.
This guy is on the money..been doing it for 5 years on all my sport tracs..7….did say 7…I cut a piece of hose off my outdoor water hose…and I duck tape around s it so it doesn’t make a mess…it does…takes. 5 mins…no going under the car….which is nice… also put a cork stopper…wine bottle…..in the radiator part…as that also drips out makes a mess…save 100 bucks….and you did it right….easypiecy lemon squisy ….I don’t change the filter Probable should. All trucks got 200 k…. Still shifting good…to old …to messy …to get under car…
I was working on mine (silverado) and had a hose on cooler lines to bypass the radiator. went to move it from the driveway to garage and hose came off and dumped 8 plus quarts in the minute it took to move it! just put it all back together and topped it off and drives just fine. So theres that method too... lol
I've seen the same comments about the easy going home job vs the high pressure shop machines. I agree that shop equipment is likely the cause. I'd change fluid myself any day, never would even think of hooking my car up to a machine.
Excellent video. Well demonstrated. I did the same to my 2010 Land Cruiser in the past and did not have any problem with the transmission .
I just bought a 2008 subaru outback and noticed the transmission was shifting kind of hard and sometimes seemed to be having trouble deciding which gear to be in at lower speeds. It has 175,000 miles on it so I drained the fluid, it looked very grey and had the consistency of water. Refilled it with Subaru ATF fluid and the difference it made is incredible. Shifting is so much smoother but still occasionally feel a slight jerk into 3rd but nothing like what it was. I may wind up dropping the pan and replacing the valve body since I suspect a couple of solenoids are wearing out and unfortunately Subaru doesn't sell them individually.
I don't think the home "flush" was ever said to destroy your transmission... It was the use of the machine at the shop forcing possible contaminates further through your system... Btw nice click bait Scotty Kilmer!
Uh yeeeeeeah, like Jimmy was badmouthing both his suburbans claiming they automatically suck Toyota is better 🙄
Your right some of those machines force fluid in and thats the issue. All he did is let the trans pump it out, then refilled.
It's a combination of pushing junk through the tranny and the chemicals used with the flush machines. This method is harmless
This, he did a drop the pan replacement not a “flush”
Luuuul nice one
Love the wife and daughter approved!!! Thanx for this.
Creep
This is put together well and very helpful!
1-2 Shift soleniod and there is 2-3 shift soleniod, a TCC soleniod and a ECP soleniod. Its all above the pan. Im changing these on my 4l80e trans.
I liked 👍😃😉!The clear hose flush to clear ATF oil. Im looking into this too! Your the man!😉
You did a simple "push out" of the old fluid. Perfect. I wouldn't wait for bubbles though, just watch the output qts and refill with fresh while it runs. What you don't want is a re-circ flush with a flushing solvent. Get 1.5 times as much new fluid for final purging with clean fluid.
He did it this way (watching for bubbles) because he dropped the pan to replace the filter. No point dropping a pan full of fluid to replace the filter.
@@mikeymike758 there's a drain plug
@@juanescamilla2834 no
@@juanescamilla2834 -He could not get the drain bolt out of the pan, watch the video...
Agree ive done this many times on all 3 Jeeps transnissions over the decades.. dont wait for bubble . Fill a milk jug.. thats 4 quarts.. then stop and refill.. bubbles is no good
Love these videos! 🙂
Did the same with my 370z manual and put in some redline mt85 fluid. What a world of a difference. Shifts so much easier especially when cold too. Less overall resistance and less likely to grind gears on 5th (apparently some weird synchro issues).
Its a manual.. you can flush, rinse, or whatever you want doing with them, the parts inside arent prone to clogging..
You did the right thing. An ounce of prevention is worth more than a pound of cure.
Don't worry Jimmy, I did the same thing to my 98 Silverado and also on my current 06' Sierra. I switched to Amsoil at about 142,000 miles and currently I'm at 181,000 miles with no issues.
Nice!
he's a mobil1 fan I just picked up 2 x5qt (and 1x mobil1 ep filter)at walmart for 52$ plus 17 and 12 rebate
My active fuel management Engine does NOT burn oil
net Cost $23 what a steal it was with the 5w30 EP version and a 0w30
even after 2500 miles my oil is still clean I was going to change it at 3000 miles but i might be able to get 4,000 miles out of it.
My engine HAS no Oil Sludge as it was well taken care of .. this is at 89k miles it's still a baby but many many miles left on it..
It almost got wiped out by a prius though stupid old driver trying to pass me... unsafely (the road was narrowing down to a single lane with a center divider )
just a FYI if you picked up some oil mobi1 might be ellagible for a rebate
If your transmission doesn't already have an issue and you flush your transmission fluid you will not have a problem....if you do transmission flushes on regular intervals you will have no problem.... if you have high mileage and your transmission is worn and old and had run hot and you flush your transmission fluid there's a good chance you will have a problem with your transmission.... Good stuff Jimmy... dispelling myths....👽.. you are correct, you hear that BS a lot but if your transmission is in good shape and you do a normal transmission fluid flush (normal maintenance).. It's no biggie..🏁
Personally I just drain and refill and change the filter because if it's done at say every 35,000 miles or 50000 miles then it is more than adequate for your transmission...the other big key to transmission longevity is a transmission cooler....heat is what destroys transmissions... if you can keep it cool it will live....
I got a 2002 Accord...trans fluid never been touched. I just passed 200,000 kms...should I bother/risk with a fluid change?
Just got a 1994 gmc suburban in amazing shape. What a car I love it!
Excellent video good man. Greatly appreciated.
I agree with you Jimmy transmissions should be flushed. Lubricants loose their lubricant properties over time and should be changed for preventative maintenance
A little trick to getting the drain plug out of the pan is putting a little heat with a propane torch, the little yellow bottle you can buy at your local big box stores. They put loctite on the threads and you are correct, you will just round the bolt head off otherwise. When I say a little heat, that's what I mean, be careful not to go crazy with the torch.
The "little yellow bottle" is called Mapp or Map-Pro.
Yes, very encouraging to us DIY Mechanics. I am preparing to do just the same process.
I did this to a customer's truck about2 montgs or so back. 1998 chevy 3500 454. We discussed the claimed issues that could happen. I told him I was willing to do it if he was willing to risk the claimed circumstances. He agreed, I Did it. Drove it and to this day it's still going great.
That Valvoline MaxLife ATF is great stuff. That's what I use in my daughter's Toyota and my Hyundai.
Great job amigo 👍
Thank you for a wonderful video, when you perform your next flush - within the next 30K -40K, use the Dexron VI v. the Dexron III , very little price difference and adds to the smooth shifting you are having now ... thank you
The way I do it is, I drain and change the filter first, and then I do the flush, then I don't have to go back. I don't know if it's the right way, but it's the way I did it. Great video!
In my ASE Master Tech opinion, that is the only way to do it. I dont wait for bubbles in the pan, I start, stop and add until it looks clean. Good job.
Newbie here...could you drain a quart, add a quart, repeat until it looks clean?
How do you do it with the 05 Ford explorer with no dip stick? Just asking because I want to do mine... I know I need a special fill tool
Before removing the clip, place many towels under the fluid lines until it wont be possible to the clip to disapear!
Tie a string onto the clip before replacing it.
Excellent video! As far as flushing an entire transmission and ruining it, you can completely dismiss mileage numbers. This has no relevance whatsoever. Regardless of mileage you need only inspect the fluid. If the fluid is just burned then that should be no problem. If the fluid is black and dirty it means the clutch friction material has come away from the clutch packs and is floating around in the system. But because it's still in the system the transmission can still get some grab at the packs. If you flush this system there will be no more friction material and thus it will not shift again.
Thank you for sharing your Video! Though I do not have problems with my Transmission, I find it all very interesting!
Awesome, informative and very helpful videos, Jimmy! Especially this one. Mahalo!
Awesome video 👍 keep up the good work buddy
👍👍
Amazing thank you so much for the information. I have learned so much. I have most definitely subscribed to your channel....
I've flushed vehicles before using a "guaranteed" flushing agent, and the results resulted in ruining an engine. After than I'll never flush with a flushing agent. In your case, you technically didn't "flush" the engine, you basically replaced the old oil with new and changed the viscosity (due to it's newness) with new oil. I like this technique it's safer and should refresh your system. Thank you for the idea and video.
Love this guy's energy! 🤣 Good video, thanks! 😁
That's a good tutorial! Saving it in my favorites. Will be doing this this spring. Thank you Jimmy!
I just tried this method. The hose you need is 3/8". I got a ten foot roll at home Depot for about $5. It took exactly 3 gal of the Valvoline Max life until the fluid in the hose looked clean. I only took out 1/2 gal of dirty fluid at a time to play it safe. But dang this works! I have my 4th gal waiting for tomorrow when I drop the pan and change the filter. Thank you for this video bro!
Question for you... As the dirty fluid is coming out into bucket. Did you have another person pouring clean fluid in to keep the flow circulating and not having anything run dry?
Thank!
@@woodworm3615 I only took out 2 quarts at a time. So it wouldn't drain dry. The pan holds way more. When I did the filter I changed the pan to one with a drain plug so next time I can drain that first then add a ton more clean fluid to begin with.
3/8 ID Hose or 3/8 OD
ID
Thanks for this video i was really not sure what to do. My boss gave me a great deal on a 2008 Nissan Titan. Friends said dont flush
It! But the dealership says it needs it, and that there are no transmission issues going into it. The U-bolts were clunkin like crazy but for 265K miles of course. Thanks for this video, it's being flushed as i write this.
A caution!!!! If you decide to take to a shop for this type of flush, keep in mind that transmission fluid is very specific to make and model. One never knows what type of fluids have been mixed in those flush machines. Ford, GM, German, Aisian. All different and the cocktail in the flush machine could end your transmission’s life.
1:17 get one of those magnets on a pole and stick the magnet to the clip before it flies.
That’s right! Be smarter than the damn clip! 😂
@@Cookefan59 I got outsmarted by a clip ( twice )
surprised there are not more comments about not trusting that return line from cooler to not just pop out and make a massive mess before you can stop it. I'm surprised that worked for you. I would not have been able to turn the key, hahaha Great video !!!!
Multiple mechanic shops refised to service mine. Bades on its old and nobody knows when the last service was. So i did it myself and it worked out great
Every time I change my oil I drain the trans fluid. Since it only drains a little compared to the volume it only take a few quarts to refill. The fluid looks as new as the day it was put in. I have dropped the pan a few times and cleaned it out. It runs perfect.
Tell your daughter that without her endorsement, I would never have believed you!
It's not just the flush, it's that Maxlife. That stuff has done wonders for all my transmissions for quite a few years.
Every trans I've put the stuff into has been magically revived, even by just doing multiple drain n fills over time.
Whatever sorcery they mix into that stuff, absolutely works!
Highly recommended!
You didnt pressure flush it so the way you went about it was perfect. I think this should be the way it should be done awesome job man💯