Great job on the door! I like these one piece garage doors and plan on having one on my home someday. They can be built in many different designs, and painted two different colors like in the video, adding curb appeal to the home, and making them unique from one another, unlike the generic automatic steel garage doors that you see on evey home nowadays.
Thanks Richard, I think the key to longevity is how well it's painted. water needs to run off the door and not soak in. I'd put a good paint job as top priority.
My Dad and I built a couple thousand of those since 69. They were always framed in the opening of each garage. And always put that bottom weather seal flap on so the space from the ground would keep it out of standing water. We did a job in Golita were there was new garage the old one had burned to the ground. All the vertical 2X3 studs were cut and ready at 80-1/4". The garage was clear, no door to remove. From the time the ignition key of the truck was turned off then back on again to leave it took 47 minutes. Mind you It was a 16'X7' plain T111 8"o/c 3/8 hand nailed, hot dipped box nails #6,#8,#16. The #8's were for the 1x3x10' for the back A frame braces that hold the door to the shape of the opening. Those were the day's :-)
Hey there Colt, good to here from ya buddy! I used to build em on site too, 16, 20 and 6 penny nails and all, now I do 1 or 2 a year and I'm just too damn old and forgetful to do em on site...I like the comfort of my shop where if I forget something I don't have to drive back and get it.
Yeah, Thats why the truck we used are equipped (ServiceBeds tha can hold twelve 3/8' sheets of plywood on channel racks) and setup to be a shop on wheels. The truck is low enough to get under the old door to haul away and the rack hight enough so an average hight person can't cut there head open while walking around the truck when theres a one piece door on it.
I'm a cabinetmaker, not in construction. This is great work! My door just broke and I'd like to make a new one. Can I ask a couple of questions? 1). How much space did you leave on the sides and top/bottom between the opening and the door? 2). Did you caulk or glue the plywood to the frame? 3). Did you nail the frame together? Are nails batter than screws in this application? Thanks in advance!
@@PhilosophiaTheos great questions, the gaps on the sides depends on whether you have an opener or not, with an opener I’d go 1/2” on each side… without an opener you can go 3/8 or 1/4 but it will operate much smoother if you have good side room. the height should be an inch taller than the opening because you’ll need to lift the door 1/2” off the concrete floor and the top of the door sits behind the header so when lifted off the floor the door will be roughly 1-1/2” taller than the opening. all of this info can be fudged a little here and there. As far as nails or screws, i use mostly nails on the frame due to time constraints but screws would be fantastic! i don’t glue the ply, but it couldn’t hurt if you wanted to glue it but also use either staples or 6penny nails as well.
Awesome work on that door. Wish I could afford to get a new door but it will have to wait for now. Thanks for the great video and well explained process, up until now I didn't understand all the work required that went into building a quality garage door.
I did my door but not this great of a job, I just reached mine. The only problem my door is too heavy for any spring to help it up. I may have to re do it. Great job guys.
Well they do make some pretty big springs, normally a 7ft high door would use 2-728s on each side, a fairly hefty door could use 2-528s on each side and a monster could take 2-328s on each side.
Yes, I know this is a couple of years late. But, like me I'm just getting to the point that I want replace my one piece slab door. The spring rate is important however, if your Holmes door Hinges are anything like mine, they have several attachment points where the spring attaches to the lever arm. If the springs are on the upper most hole of the lever arm and it is still not easy to open, then go for the stiffer springs. If not in the upper most hole, try moving the spring further towards the end of the lever arm. Also, in case you forget during all your enthusiasum, do this with the door open and propped up to relieve most of the tension on the springs! Once you unhook the springs (top & bottom, mine has a linked chain with an S hook for more finetooning of the spring tension) give it a try. Start all the way out on the chain and then move in one link at a time until you get it where it works for you. If the door still does not open with the ease that you expect, go to the stiffer springs. If you have older springs like mine, which do not have a safety restraint cable inside the spring should the spring snap (trust me, you'll know when this happens!) replace then anyway! At the least, when this happens a broken bone is the least of your worries!
I have a question on spring length. I commonly see 28",30" and 32" I know the wire thickness 5,7,9 determines strength and how much weight the springs will lift. How do you pick the correct length of spring? My scenario - a rental property with 6 doors, All doors are original and I'm finding 4 spring lengths. My guess is the repair people use what they have and make it work... How to you pick the correct length? Any advantage to a longer or shorter spring? thanks
Amazing Job! I wish the people who worked for the garage companies had the same passion for garage doors and openers like you had. One of the things I would like on my dream home would be a 5 panel/5 section wood OHD, but I doubt I'll find anyone to make one for me.
These one piece wood doors seem safer than the aluminum roll ups, especially the ones with the windows where you can see the manual open rope hanging down right behind the glass. Even a walking dead zombie has enough memory to know to pull on the red plastic handle thingy. (I had to remove it cuz they kept getting out)
Can you please show the closing mechanism? I built a very similar door and currently have it hinged at the top. I need to come up with a system to open and close the door easily. I made mine out of the 2 inch pink foam insulation and framed it in 1x6 trim. It is very light and firm since the trim is not only glued to the foam, but I have carriage bolts thru it every 12 inches.
Now insulate it and cover the inside with a thin plywood layer. Makes it strong, like a torsion panel, while adding a minimum of weight. Even if the garage is not heated, it will still trap heat that makes it into the garage, possibly putting a small dent in the power/fuel bill.
We have the same garage door style. But it doesnt have weatherstrip, so it is drafty. Do you have a video of showing how to put a weatherstrip on this kind of garage door?
That’s a great question and I don’t. But you can easily find weatherseal for the bottom and sides. the bottom just attaches with nails…supplied. the side weatherstrip is a flat rubber seal that attaches to the back sides of the openings frame.
What's the best hardware/opener for installing those? I've been looking into it (located in LA) and really wish there was more info online. Love the one-piece look.
Thank you for the info and great video! I've built one myself using yours as my guide. This thing is HEAVY! I have a 8ft tall by 16ft wide door, so in order to reduce some weight, I'm going to trim it down to 7 ft tall and just fill the gap at the top by framing it in. My question is, how heavy is TOO heavy? I'm thinking I can reduce it by 75lbs or so by removing a foot from the top, but it may be still in the 300, 350 range.
I think 350 might be the limit, you’re gonna need a 328 and 528 on each side to balance it. But i’m pretty sure the E-900 hinges can handle 350 max door weight.
@@ALLProGarageDoors I weighed the door and it's coming in at 312 lbs. I could probably reduce that a bit if needed, wanted to get a professional opinion. Do you think it's necessary or have you hung doors that heavy before using the E-900 system? I could replace the 3/8 ply with hardboard which would reduce the weight by 40 lbs - but not really wanting to do that if it's not necessary. thank you for your advice!
@@philbischof Put it this way… I have balanced many doors that heavy on E-900 hardware, I think the hinges can handle it but that being said the lighter the door the better, it’s easier on the wear and tear of the hinges and springs in the long run. One thing that is highly overlooked but quite possibly the most important part of the whole project is the paint job, water must run off the door and not be allowed to soak into the wood, a good paint job inside and out is critical and paint also adds weight. The longest lasting one piece doors are light and have a bulletproof paint job.
@@ALLProGarageDoors Awesome advice! Thank you! I've purchased some lighter ply to reskin the door and reduce the weight. I'll focus next on a bulletproof paint job. Thank you for your time!
Great music haha Hey is that marine grade plywood on the strips? I’ve had some normal plywood primed and painted as a shelf on the shady side of the building but it started to delaminate after 5 years
You guys should go buy a camera with a external microphone pack! You can tape it to your chest or your shirt and then we can hear you a lot better! it's like professional and s*** and you can get them on Amazon I'm sure! It would be a huge Improvement in your videos! I'm not being a smart-ass! I'm serious! I enjoy watching your videos! I think it would be an amazing improvement! I work for O'Brien Garage Doors in Milwaukee Wisconsin I like watching your videos because I never installed a one piece door and in case I do I will know something at least! Lol thanks so much!!
1). How much smaller do you make the door verses the Framed hole? 2). What size springs would you use on a 6'x10' door with same construction as video. 3). why did you use 2x3 instead of 2x4 on some of the framing. (weight?) THANKS excellent video for DIY - I can do it !
if your frame is 10 wide you can make the door 3/4 to one inch smaller. On a ten wide by 6 high i'd use one 728 on each side. i use 2x3s to keep it light.
understood & thanks. As far as Headroom (distance between the bottom of the header to ceiling) Can I get by with 6" without changing the headroom adjustment holes? I read 5" is enough clearance.
Phoebe If you watch the video at 4:10 and 12:05 you can see the 2x4 on the very end is laid flat but there is another 2x4 butted up against the flat one and that one is like the rest of them... on end.The three nails go from that one into the very end one to keep it from warping.
@All-Pro Quality Garage Doors Inc. Great Video. I am stuck with my metal tilt up door for now, but need to find a seal for the sides. Do you recommend brush seals? Any suppliers in the SoCal area you can recommend?
Hey Chris thanks for the great detail video. I have a question for you. I recently just installed the E900 which is working perfectly. Thank you again for the videos on how install and balanced. My question is the garage door i just built is sagging in the middle. I believe is one of the reasons is because i did not replicate your frame exactly as you did in this video. Another problem may be the fact that my door measures 17.5 feet slightly bigger than the door in this video. I could not get 2x4 long enough at home depot to build my door so in have to joint two pieces together which i also believe it diminish the strength of the frame. My last question is does this door in the video is being supported by the E900? Just want to get your thoughts on my issues if possible. Appreciate any help you can provide. Jose
Any door over 12ft wide needs to have two "truss rods" one on the top and one on the bottom to support the center of the door from sagging otherwise the door will collapse. If you can't find an actual truss rod then you might be able to substitute it with a cable, but there has to be a bridge or v-shaped block in the center of the bottom and top rail in order to get the middle of the door to come up when you tighten the cables using a turn buckle. But that's really the only way to get the sag out.
@@ALLProGarageDoors Thank you again. I see the truss Rod. Question can tension cable do the same job, if not do you have any suggestions where i can buy a truss rod that long. Muchas gracias
@@JoseJimenezbravedominican Truss rods are hard to find, i would look for one first but if you don't have any luck i think a good thick cable pulled tight could work, you have to have the ability to tighten it so i think a turn buckle could be the way and also you need a bridge in the middle to force the door upward as you tighten.
What type of hardware is used to make the door open and close? I’m needing to build two doors at twelve feet wide and eight feet tall. What type of hardware should I use?
you should use Lcj-8 if you can find it. the most common hardware is E-900 but it says for doors up to 7'4" high, i've seen em used on 8ft doors but Holmes doesn't recommend it.
I think I've decided for sure now... Eventually I want to custom build a bigass sectional wood door. Probably around 4" thick, so I can use the same type of insulation you use to insulate walls. 3" commercial grade track and double end hardware, with plenty of stain, caulk, liquid nails, paint, and that water barrier stuff they use when you have brick-on-wood situations. That should help with rot.
This was great, been searching for "learning powerful methods to build your Chi energy" for a while now, and I think this has helped. Have you ever come across - Fellmeroni Rudimentary Chi - (do a google search ) ? Ive heard some extraordinary things about it and my mate got cool results with it.
I have to build a one piece swing up due to head clearance. Can you tell me if i bought a cheap 1 piece fiberglass door and decide to face it myself ( like your video) would that shift anything on the door due to the extra weight? Have you seen it done? Maybe it's a bad idea? Thanks
I'm not sure, there is not much in the way of fiberglass down here so all I can tell you is your fine as long as the frame can support the weight and try to keep it as light as possible, hopefully your door is not too wide or it could be a problem. You might be better off building a steel 1pc door...much easier and lighter too.
I want to build an enclosed outdoor cooking shack. 16 feet long, 6 feet tall, and 4 feet wide. I want to have the doors lift up, either as one piece or bi-fold. How do you get the entire door to lift up like in this video?
you have to install hinges and springs but you'll need atleast 2inches for the door to turn in and the door including the truss rod will hang down 6" in the opening so you better make the roof of the shack atleast 7ft6" high. th-cam.com/video/qcbuJdfbs1Q/w-d-xo.html
michigan0207 Well you have to consider the thickness of the door because its going to be below the opening so if your opening is 6ft and your door is 5-6" inches thick then your height is now 5'6" high when the door is open so your opening should be 7ft minimum so when the door is open you'll have 6'6" ish in height, then you'll need a few more inches on the inside for the door to turn. it can be done in two inches but the door doesn't work smoothly, give yourself 5-6 inches clearance and it will.
That door is beautiful!! I love the painting, it looks perfect!! If you can, can you put in the description what material and stuff you used? I'd like to convert my door to a 1 piece with straight track...
Sure, no problem. It might take a while though, for some strange reason when I go in to edit the info for the video an error just keeps popping up, so I will try and get back on tomorrow and see if it's fixed yet.
I don't understand why people don't like the traditional wood garage doors? I've had mine for 23 years and never have even changed a spring. It's actually from your Company
@@Lucas-pv2wn There are adjustment holes in the hardware that change the way the door arcs, so with the right adjustments yea… door will turn in less than 2 inches. The opener will not like it but it will work.
Thank you for your video and time for us DIYers!! I too live in sunny SD and am looking for videos / info on how to weatherproof the sides! I have an 8x7 single door and have a 1/2" gap on each side. Since single wood door opens out and upward, am having a hrd time finding a product that works to seal gap. Any input would be GREATLY appreciated!
Well Elvis, I did a 1pc steel door last week and it came with weatherstripping on the sides of the door, I would imagine that any strip of rubber that you could attach to the sides of your door or to the back sides of the frame would work...not great, but do-able. Just out of curiosity...why do you not have a sectional door by now? they seal up damn near air tight. 1pc doors need some breathing room to operate and therefore the gaps on the sides.
Beautiful door!!!!!! I love one piece garage doors, and I have been thinking of getting one for the house i plan to build in the near future. I want a cedar raised panel door but they only make them in sectional lol. how hard would it be to convert a sectional door to a one piece door?
Thanks SUV! I think its do-able, just put silicone caulking thick in between all the sections and brace the back side real good and I don't see any reason it wouldn't work!
I noticed you used the Holmes E-900 (kit?) to hand the door. I have a garage door hung using the Holmes Model #1100 hardware. Do you have a video that shows how to adjust a garage door that uses the 1100?
avaughs 1100 is very light duty and they don't make it anymore to my knowledge. The 1100 doesn't have as many adjustments but the ones it does have should be the same, if you have any questions that you can't seem to figure out shoot me an email at Mike@allproqgd.com
Hi, I have been dragging my feet about replacing my one piece door because I like being able to open it without electricity, and with one finger because it's so well balanced (or else the termites ate so much the door doesn't weigh anything any more). Can you give us a rough estimate of the cost to build and install this door? Thanks, Mary
Great video! Good job guys! I had a question I hope you could answer: Would a steel garage door block more sound/noise from coming in or a wood garage door block more sound/noise from coming in?? and this would be without any insulation or soundproofing, Thank you!
+jade007z ....that is a damn good question!!! I think wood would absorb more sound but I think the steel would reverberate it back into the garage and with a good Vinyl weatherstripping around the outside also help keep it in the garage vs the gaps on each side of a wood door...necessary for operation. Close but I'd say steel. Now an insulated steel door with a 9R value....BINGO!! and only about a hundred bucks more than non insulated, totally worth it!!
The truss rods are a must on anything over say...10-12ft they keep the door from sagging. people sometimes remove them so they can pull a taller vehicle into the garage but the door collapses shortly after so they are a must have.
Watch the entire video just to see how you hung it the, only to not see how you hung it at all...🤷♂️ It is a great looking door and I learned a lot, just wish I'd seen how you hung it
Independence City Motoring I didn't use an impact on the door, i probably drilled a pilot or two when near an edge or knot but other than a staple gun for the ply thats about it.
@@ALLProGarageDoors I have never actually seen one of these doors in person so i am only going by what i see online. So the top of the door actually sits behind the opening about an inch? Then the door when it's closed is actually at a slight angle from top to bottom with the bottom sticking out into the opening part way?
@@maliburacer Yea kind of... in other words, it does sit behind the header but the cantelever arms on the hinges are designed to allow the door to stand straight up and down when adjusted. Sometimes it actually will have a slight angle outwards from top to bottom but in most cases it can be adjusted to almost perfect vertical.
@@ALLProGarageDoors OK, i think i get it. The entire door should sit basically even with the back of the door frame when it's adjusted correctly. I want to put a walk through door in the garage door and the garage door being at an angle would be bad.
@@maliburacer Exactly! it can be adjusted to very close if not perfectly vertical... most times. On very heavy doors the springs need to be bigger and bigger springs means more pressure when it's closed and that pressure doesn't always allow the door to sit perfectly vertical until it's locked in place
Thanks Ben, there is a kit for the door called a Holmes E-900 Hardware kit. It comes with the hinges and springs along with some bumpers and assorted lags and bolts.
depends on how thick your bottom weather seal is because the door can sit off the ground up to an inch but the average is about an inch above the header.
All-Pro Quality Garage Doors Inc. perfect thank you. does half inch on each side for reveal ok? do they make a weather seal the side or not? any recommendations for floor weather seal
scal760 they do make both, if i do a seal on the side i usually use the flat seal which is the same stuff i use on the bottom. You can a half inch on each side which is perfect if you have an opener, if you are going to work it by hand the go with a quarter inch gap on each side.
From what I remember the garage was packed full of crap, it didn’t have an opener and the customer was a little sketchy, so I had to minimize my camera visibility. I think I did a little better on the “steel 1pc” video.
@@ALLProGarageDoors Ahhh, i gotcha. ;) I'm a door installer out by Detroit, was just curious to see it function. I also like to do framing (I've done a lot of rebuilding the face of garages, redoing ties, whatever it takes to get a new door in), so this video was like a blending of the two for me. :D Thanks for the reply.
Paul DeFillippo I hear ya! It’s always interesting to me to see doors and neighborhoods from other parts of the US as well. Sometimes I forget that the 1pc door is mostly here in the south west states, I’m so used to them, they are the norm here.
@@ALLProGarageDoors thank you ive been trying to look for them but didnt know the name my garage door collapsed on me because the side beams where rotted man it was a 1 piece garage door for 2 cars it was soo heavy i had 6 friends trying to carry it i think its the original garage door and my house was built in 1908
@@miguelplascencia2460 They definitely are heavy!! If you ever build a new one keep it light and very well painted, lighter seems to last longer these days. the ones we take down these days are in the best shape when painted inside and out.
Mr. Poopy Butthole If it’s painted properly you can use Russian toilet paper and it will be fine. Plywood is more durable than say a doug fir 1x4 which will cup and warp at every knot. But then again... it all depends on the paint job. I’ve hung 1pc doors back in the 80s for every big player in San Diego and they all used strips of... you guessed it... plywood.
I have a one piece wooden door and it's only for a one car garage and it's incredibly heavy. I wouldn't recommend this, especially one this big. That door probably weighs between 300-400 pounds so if your power goes out you aren't getting it open.
The Internets .... I wouldn't recommend it either but every now and again you'll find a homeowners association that requires you replicate what is already there. Oh well... whatcha gonna do...
The Internets thats about it. Although with the proper springs even a door this big can be made to lift with one hand, this job was done for an older lady and no opener was installed so she will be working it by hand.
Good to know. Mine is probably in need of new springs then. My house is 80 years old and I wouldn't be surprised if the springs are original. It's not terribly hard for me to open but I can't imagine my grandmother being able to get it open and closed safely.
The Internets that is possible that you are in need of new springs, i have a video on how to install them and balance the door but before you buy em make sure your hinges look like the ones in my holmes hardware video. If not then you might not be able to do springs, at that point try adjusting yours.
Thanks for your response, I have learned a lot from watching your videos. Couldn't find anything like this at Home Depot. Do you think this door that you built could go without truss rods? If not could I use a cable and turnbuckles to accomplish the same purpose with a standoff block in the center of the door to help prevent sag?
No problem Travis! I suppose cables could work but they will have to be thick and super tight. the door would collapse without some sort of truss support. Normally when I need truss rods I will take them off an old door I am replacing with a new one. I would venture to say that your best bet for finding good solid truss rods would be to locate about 2 or 3 local door dealers and swing by their shop after hrs and see what they are dumping out back. Most San Diego dealers will have a few decent one piece doors stacked up somewhere waiting for someone to come and load them up for the trip to Mexico, so truss rods are abundant here when needed simply by salvaging them off of old doors.
jim davidson but paint doesn’t stick to 100% silicone, i think painters caulk if painted... should last. I’ll take a picture of the door up close next time i drive by it.
They make a paintable silicone. Wondering if it's as good as the non-paintable though..... You make a good point by top-coating the caulking with exterior paint.
I’m sitting in my truck in front of that door right now, i checked it out... the caulking is fine. Some spots look like they were done yesterday other spots look like they could use some fresh paint but all in all a total success! I took pics for future comments.
Thanks Rummy! Can't put forth that much effort then screw up the easiest part. I always show my new guys that video...then show them the end with a crooked handle for a lesson. Your one of the very few if not the only one to have noticed...good job!
jracer77 yep.... ain’t that a bitch when you spend all that time making a great door then leave it up to two cross-eyed knuckleheads to fumble the job on the one yard line?
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I love those classic 1 piece garage doors.
This is exactly what i'm looking for, i have an old heavy wood door with broken panels i want something like you did in this video.
Great job on the door! I like these one piece garage doors and plan on having one on my home someday. They can be built in many different designs, and painted two different colors like in the video, adding curb appeal to the home, and making them unique from one another, unlike the generic automatic steel garage doors that you see on evey home nowadays.
They did a great job! That door will last for many, many years. I'm inspired to fix ours.
Thanks Richard, I think the key to longevity is how well it's painted. water needs to run off the door and not soak in. I'd put a good paint job as top priority.
My god...what a beautiful job guys!
The true beauty in this video is that sweet ford aerostar
I totally agree!!!
It’s up for sale right now!
All-Pro Quality Garage Doors Inc. if it’s still for sale, how much!?
Bro I came for the hinges, but nice work 👏
Awesome video and an awesome tutorial!
My Dad and I built a couple thousand of those since 69. They were always framed in the opening of each garage. And always put that bottom weather seal flap on so the space from the ground would keep it out of standing water. We did a job in Golita were there was new garage the old one had burned to the ground. All the vertical 2X3 studs were cut and ready at 80-1/4". The garage was clear, no door to remove. From the time the ignition key of the truck was turned off then back on again to leave it took 47 minutes. Mind you It was a 16'X7' plain T111 8"o/c 3/8 hand nailed, hot dipped box nails #6,#8,#16. The #8's were for the 1x3x10' for the back A frame braces that hold the door to the shape of the opening. Those were the day's :-)
Hey there Colt, good to here from ya buddy! I used to build em on site too, 16, 20 and 6 penny nails and all, now I do 1 or 2 a year and I'm just too damn old and forgetful to do em on site...I like the comfort of my shop where if I forget something I don't have to drive back and get it.
Yeah, Thats why the truck we used are equipped (ServiceBeds tha can hold twelve 3/8' sheets of plywood on channel racks) and setup to be a shop on wheels. The truck is low enough to get under the old door to haul away and the rack hight enough so an average hight person can't cut there head open while walking around the truck when theres a one piece door on it.
Yep, the ol 1pc doors are a thing of the past these days.
Looks good 👍🏼
I love this video also did the costumer wanted a garage door opener too. Very helpful thanks 🙏
Man I wish you were in Oakland!!!
I'm a cabinetmaker, not in construction. This is great work!
My door just broke and I'd like to make a new one. Can I ask a couple of questions?
1). How much space did you leave on the sides and top/bottom between the opening and the door?
2). Did you caulk or glue the plywood to the frame?
3). Did you nail the frame together? Are nails batter than screws in this application?
Thanks in advance!
@@PhilosophiaTheos great questions, the gaps on the sides depends on whether you have an opener or not, with an opener I’d go 1/2” on each side… without an opener you can go 3/8 or 1/4 but it will operate much smoother if you have good side room. the height should be an inch taller than the opening because you’ll need to lift the door 1/2” off the concrete floor and the top of the door sits behind the header so when lifted off the floor the door will be roughly 1-1/2” taller than the opening. all of this info can be fudged a little here and there. As far as nails or screws, i use mostly nails on the frame due to time constraints but screws would be fantastic! i don’t glue the ply, but it couldn’t hurt if you wanted to glue it but also use either staples or 6penny nails as well.
@@ALLProGarageDoors - Perfect! Thanks so much for answering. I need to fix or replace my door ASAP. This will help
Awesome work on that door. Wish I could afford to get a new door but it will have to wait for now. Thanks for the great video and well explained process, up until now I didn't understand all the work required that went into building a quality garage door.
Thanks Russ!! 👍🏻👍🏻
I need to do this- Thanks for the video- Nice Job.
Well done! Looks great
Awesome job my friend...thanks so much for sharing your video
Thanks Greg, It came out real nice but I hope I never have to do another one...ever again.
I did my door but not this great of a job, I just reached mine. The only problem my door is too heavy for any spring to help it up. I may have to re do it. Great job guys.
Well they do make some pretty big springs, normally a 7ft high door would use 2-728s on each side, a fairly hefty door could use 2-528s on each side and a monster could take 2-328s on each side.
Yes, I know this is a couple of years late. But, like me I'm just getting to the point that I want replace my one piece slab door. The spring rate is important however, if your Holmes door Hinges are anything like mine, they have several attachment points where the spring attaches to the lever arm. If the springs are on the upper most hole of the lever arm and it is still not easy to open, then go for the stiffer springs. If not in the upper most hole, try moving the spring further towards the end of the lever arm.
Also, in case you forget during all your enthusiasum, do this with the door open and propped up to relieve most of the tension on the springs! Once you unhook the springs (top & bottom, mine has a linked chain with an S hook for more finetooning of the spring tension) give it a try. Start all the way out on the chain and then move in one link at a time until you get it where it works for you. If the door still does not open with the ease that you expect, go to the stiffer springs. If you have older springs like mine, which do not have a safety restraint cable inside the spring should the spring snap (trust me, you'll know when this happens!) replace then anyway! At the least, when this happens a broken bone is the least of your worries!
I have a question on spring length.
I commonly see 28",30" and 32"
I know the wire thickness 5,7,9 determines strength and how much weight the springs will lift.
How do you pick the correct length of spring?
My scenario - a rental property with 6 doors, All doors are original and I'm finding 4 spring lengths.
My guess is the repair people use what they have and make it work...
How to you pick the correct length?
Any advantage to a longer or shorter spring?
thanks
Amazing Job! I wish the people who worked for the garage companies had the same passion for garage doors and openers like you had. One of the things I would like on my dream home would be a 5 panel/5 section wood OHD, but I doubt I'll find anyone to make one for me.
Thanks JW!! Trust me... when it comes time to getting your dream home, money talks and it will get you anything you want.
So very true. The only hard thing will be finding an R80/Touch N Go to make it perfect. Haha!
These one piece wood doors seem safer than the aluminum roll ups, especially the ones with the windows where you can see the manual open rope hanging down right behind the glass.
Even a walking dead zombie has enough memory to know to pull on the red plastic handle thingy. (I had to remove it cuz they kept getting out)
Can you please show the closing mechanism? I built a very similar door and currently have it hinged at the top. I need to come up with a system to open and close the door easily. I made mine out of the 2 inch pink foam insulation and framed it in 1x6 trim. It is very light and firm since the trim is not only glued to the foam, but I have carriage bolts thru it every 12 inches.
try this. th-cam.com/video/0PPoigaenZw/w-d-xo.html
Now insulate it and cover the inside with a thin plywood layer. Makes it strong, like a torsion panel, while adding a minimum of weight. Even if the garage is not heated, it will still trap heat that makes it into the garage, possibly putting a small dent in the power/fuel bill.
Double Dare Fan ... I've seen that done, it does add some weight yes... but it can be properly springed.
What kind of wood was used? Really nice look to this!
Nice video…thanks for making it! super helpful.
***** No problem buddy, glad you enjoyed it!
We have the same garage door style. But it doesnt have weatherstrip, so it is drafty. Do you have a video of showing how to put a weatherstrip on this kind of garage door?
That’s a great question and I don’t. But you can easily find weatherseal for the bottom and sides. the bottom just attaches with nails…supplied. the side weatherstrip is a flat rubber seal that attaches to the back sides of the openings frame.
@@ALLProGarageDoors thank you for responding. I appreciate it so much
What's the best hardware/opener for installing those? I've been looking into it (located in LA) and really wish there was more info online. Love the one-piece look.
The best hardware is HCJ-7 if you can find it the best opener is probably a Liftmaster chain drive. No retail models.
Thank you! So commercial is best for the opener? @@ALLProGarageDoors
Thank you for the info and great video! I've built one myself using yours as my guide. This thing is HEAVY! I have a 8ft tall by 16ft wide door, so in order to reduce some weight, I'm going to trim it down to 7 ft tall and just fill the gap at the top by framing it in. My question is, how heavy is TOO heavy? I'm thinking I can reduce it by 75lbs or so by removing a foot from the top, but it may be still in the 300, 350 range.
I think 350 might be the limit, you’re gonna need a 328 and 528 on each side to balance it. But i’m pretty sure the E-900 hinges can handle 350 max door weight.
@@ALLProGarageDoors I weighed the door and it's coming in at 312 lbs. I could probably reduce that a bit if needed, wanted to get a professional opinion. Do you think it's necessary or have you hung doors that heavy before using the E-900 system? I could replace the 3/8 ply with hardboard which would reduce the weight by 40 lbs - but not really wanting to do that if it's not necessary. thank you for your advice!
@@philbischof Put it this way… I have balanced many doors that heavy on E-900 hardware, I think the hinges can handle it but that being said the lighter the door the better, it’s easier on the wear and tear of the hinges and springs in the long run. One thing that is highly overlooked but quite possibly the most important part of the whole project is the paint job, water must run off the door and not be allowed to soak into the wood, a good paint job inside and out is critical and paint also adds weight. The longest lasting one piece doors are light and have a bulletproof paint job.
@@ALLProGarageDoors Awesome advice! Thank you! I've purchased some lighter ply to reskin the door and reduce the weight. I'll focus next on a bulletproof paint job. Thank you for your time!
great job guys just wondering how did you guys hang the door and which way is opening well done
From Dago! You got me to subscribe
Dego ROCKS!! 👍🏽👍🏽
Great music haha
Hey is that marine grade plywood on the strips? I’ve had some normal plywood primed and painted as a shelf on the shady side of the building but it started to delaminate after 5 years
No, it’s all just regular ply. The homeowner will need to paint it and keep up on the maintenance.
Great job, just subscribed.
Best wishes from Tijuana.
Thanks Vlad!! 👍🏽
Where do you get the weather seal. I live in Wisconsin and need to build and seal 2 - 9x7 doors.
try amazon or home depot.com they might have it. You might not find the exact same stuff i used but you’ll find something that works.
One end of garage door is slightly open just a tab about roughly about 3 inches how can i fix that????
you have to watch the video where i explain how the hardware works… it’s easy.
Excellent thanks for sharing
You guys should go buy a camera with a external microphone pack! You can tape it to your chest or your shirt and then we can hear you a lot better! it's like professional and s*** and you can get them on Amazon I'm sure! It would be a huge Improvement in your videos! I'm not being a smart-ass! I'm serious!
I enjoy watching your videos!
I think it would be an amazing improvement!
I work for O'Brien Garage Doors in Milwaukee Wisconsin I like watching your videos because I never installed a one piece door and in case I do I will know something at least! Lol thanks so much!!
Got a video on the hardware install? Great video.
th-cam.com/video/qcbuJdfbs1Q/w-d-xo.html
as a matter of fact I do….
1). How much smaller do you make the door verses the Framed hole? 2). What size springs would you use on a 6'x10' door with same construction as video. 3). why did you use 2x3 instead of 2x4 on some of the framing. (weight?) THANKS excellent video for DIY - I can do it !
if your frame is 10 wide you can make the door 3/4 to one inch smaller. On a ten wide by 6 high i'd use one 728 on each side. i use 2x3s to keep it light.
understood & thanks. As far as Headroom (distance between the bottom of the header to ceiling) Can I get by with 6" without changing the headroom adjustment holes? I read 5" is enough clearance.
Yes that is true, 6" should be fine.
what are the "6 - 16p nails 3 on each end" Not sure what is meant by 3 on each end. Each end of what? (in your material list) THANKS again....
Phoebe If you watch the video at 4:10 and 12:05 you can see the 2x4 on the very end is laid flat but there is another 2x4 butted up against the flat one and that one is like the rest of them... on end.The three nails go from that one into the very end one to keep it from warping.
@All-Pro Quality Garage Doors Inc. Great Video. I am stuck with my metal tilt up door for now, but need to find a seal for the sides. Do you recommend brush seals? Any suppliers in the SoCal area you can recommend?
brush seals are ok. I don’t know of any local suppliers, you might have to order online.
@@ALLProGarageDoors Do you prefer just sticking with the standard 3/8" rubber seals instead?
@@fastsvo Rubber is better for keeping wind, cold and heat from coming in or getting out but short of that not much difference.
Hey Chris thanks for the great detail video. I have a question for you. I recently just installed the E900 which is working perfectly. Thank you again for the videos on how install and balanced. My question is the garage door i just built is sagging in the middle. I believe is one of the reasons is because i did not replicate your frame exactly as you did in this video. Another problem may be the fact that my door measures 17.5 feet slightly bigger than the door in this video. I could not get 2x4 long enough at home depot to build my door so in have to joint two pieces together which i also believe it diminish the strength of the frame. My last question is does this door in the video is being supported by the E900? Just want to get your thoughts on my issues if possible. Appreciate any help you can provide. Jose
Any door over 12ft wide needs to have two "truss rods" one on the top and one on the bottom to support the center of the door from sagging otherwise the door will collapse. If you can't find an actual truss rod then you might be able to substitute it with a cable, but there has to be a bridge or v-shaped block in the center of the bottom and top rail in order to get the middle of the door to come up when you tighten the cables using a turn buckle. But that's really the only way to get the sag out.
This video shows two truss rods at the 7:23 mark.
th-cam.com/video/qcbuJdfbs1Q/w-d-xo.html
@@ALLProGarageDoors Thank you again. I see the truss Rod. Question can tension cable do the same job, if not do you have any suggestions where i can buy a truss rod that long. Muchas gracias
@@JoseJimenezbravedominican Truss rods are hard to find, i would look for one first but if you don't have any luck i think a good thick cable pulled tight could work, you have to have the ability to tighten it so i think a turn buckle could be the way and also you need a bridge in the middle to force the door upward as you tighten.
@@ALLProGarageDoors The fact that you replied with so much detail is to be applauded!
I dig the aerostar, is it still on the road?
It just passed smog... we don't drive it often but it still runs!
What type of hardware is used to make the door open and close? I’m needing to build two doors at twelve feet wide and eight feet tall. What type of hardware should I use?
you should use Lcj-8 if you can find it. the most common hardware is E-900 but it says for doors up to 7'4" high, i've seen em used on 8ft doors but Holmes doesn't recommend it.
I think I've decided for sure now... Eventually I want to custom build a bigass sectional wood door. Probably around 4" thick, so I can use the same type of insulation you use to insulate walls. 3" commercial grade track and double end hardware, with plenty of stain, caulk, liquid nails, paint, and that water barrier stuff they use when you have brick-on-wood situations. That should help with rot.
Video tape it Nick.
Eventually... lol. No way my parents are letting me do that here! lol especially with that new CHI I just put in.
Nick'sGarageDoorService I
This was great, been searching for "learning powerful methods to build your Chi energy" for a while now, and I think this has helped. Have you ever come across - Fellmeroni Rudimentary Chi - (do a google search ) ? Ive heard some extraordinary things about it and my mate got cool results with it.
What were the stapler used for? For the plywood on the exterior?
Yes
Freaking Awesome!
Would love to see how it is installed
i think we might have showed more on the installation part on the steel 1 pc vid or on the hardware installation vid
I have to build a one piece swing up due to head clearance. Can you tell me if i bought a cheap 1 piece fiberglass door and decide to face it myself ( like your video) would that shift anything on the door due to the extra weight? Have you seen it done? Maybe it's a bad idea? Thanks
I'm not sure, there is not much in the way of fiberglass down here so all I can tell you is your fine as long as the frame can support the weight and try to keep it as light as possible, hopefully your door is not too wide or it could be a problem. You might be better off building a steel 1pc door...much easier and lighter too.
HI!!! This video is great! QUESTION: Would adding in windows alter the integrity of the door too much? Thanks!!
It could be done if you keep the windows small and put them in between the stringers.
Also have you ever seen how a garage door opener opens Swing Out Garage Doors😉 just curious.
great looking door! what set up do you have for it to open and close?
Thanks Isaac! from what i remember the customer used the garage for storage so they just hand operated it.
I want to build an enclosed outdoor cooking shack. 16 feet long, 6 feet tall, and 4 feet wide. I want to have the doors lift up, either as one piece or bi-fold.
How do you get the entire door to lift up like in this video?
you have to install hinges and springs but you'll need atleast 2inches for the door to turn in and the door including the truss rod will hang down 6" in the opening so you better make the roof of the shack atleast 7ft6" high. th-cam.com/video/qcbuJdfbs1Q/w-d-xo.html
@@ALLProGarageDoors so for a 6 foot tall door, i need a 7.5 foot tall opening?
michigan0207 Well you have to consider the thickness of the door because its going to be below the opening so if your opening is 6ft and your door is 5-6" inches thick then your height is now 5'6" high when the door is open so your opening should be 7ft minimum so when the door is open you'll have 6'6" ish in height, then you'll need a few more inches on the inside for the door to turn. it can be done in two inches but the door doesn't work smoothly, give yourself 5-6 inches clearance and it will.
I wanted to see the tracks man
That door is beautiful!! I love the painting, it looks perfect!! If you can, can you put in the description what material and stuff you used? I'd like to convert my door to a 1 piece with straight track...
Sure, no problem. It might take a while though, for some strange reason when I go in to edit the info for the video an error just keeps popping up, so I will try and get back on tomorrow and see if it's fixed yet.
ALLProGarageDoors
Thanks for adding the materials to the description
Fragosgaragedoorvids
No problem buddy.
I don't understand why people don't like the traditional wood garage doors? I've had mine for 23 years and never have even changed a spring. It's actually from your Company
What overhead clearance do you need for a door like that?
About 2 inches
@@ALLProGarageDoors no kidding?!
Unbelievable.
@@Lucas-pv2wn There are adjustment holes in the hardware that change the way the door arcs, so with the right adjustments yea… door will turn in less than 2 inches. The opener will not like it but it will work.
how do you install hinges and rollers?
th-cam.com/video/qcbuJdfbs1Q/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for your video and time for us DIYers!! I too live in sunny SD and am looking for videos / info on how to weatherproof the sides! I have an 8x7 single door and have a 1/2" gap on each side. Since single wood door opens out and upward, am having a hrd time finding a product that works to seal gap.
Any input would be GREATLY appreciated!
Well Elvis, I did a 1pc steel door last week and it came with weatherstripping on the sides of the door, I would imagine that any strip of rubber that you could attach to the sides of your door or to the back sides of the frame would work...not great, but do-able. Just out of curiosity...why do you not have a sectional door by now? they seal up damn near air tight. 1pc doors need some breathing room to operate and therefore the gaps on the sides.
Beautiful door!!!!!! I love one piece garage doors, and I have been thinking of getting one for the house i plan to build in the near future. I want a cedar raised panel door but they only make them in sectional lol. how hard would it be to convert a sectional door to a one piece door?
Thanks SUV! I think its do-able, just put silicone caulking thick in between all the sections and brace the back side real good and I don't see any reason it wouldn't work!
ALLProGarageDoors I will try that, thanks!
Yeah I like it! Where do we get hinges to swing up like that
probably home depot
Was the door measured for the opening or a tad bit higher?
usually a tad bit higher
I noticed you used the Holmes E-900 (kit?) to hand the door. I have a garage door hung using the Holmes Model #1100 hardware. Do you have a video that shows how to adjust a garage door that uses the 1100?
avaughs 1100 is very light duty and they don't make it anymore to my knowledge. The 1100 doesn't have as many adjustments but the ones it does have should be the same, if you have any questions that you can't seem to figure out shoot me an email at Mike@allproqgd.com
What type of plywood did you use? And do you think a garage door like this would stain well?
3/8 roughsawn ply, i suppose with all the stains available these days it could be done to look pretty good.
Awesome
Well done! The finished product looked stunning. Any idea what the finished weight was on that one? Just curious.
I didn't weigh it but I would guess 300lbs.
Hi, I have been dragging my feet about replacing my one piece door because I like being able to open it without electricity, and with one finger because it's so well balanced (or else the termites ate so much the door doesn't weigh anything any more). Can you give us a rough estimate of the cost to build and install this door?
Thanks, Mary
Not off hand, but alot depends on the size and design. you could get a 1 pc steel door as well, much cheaper than wood with less problems.
Great video! Good job guys! I had a question I hope you could answer: Would a steel garage door block more sound/noise from coming in or a wood garage door block more sound/noise from coming in?? and this would be without any insulation or soundproofing, Thank you!
+jade007z ....that is a damn good question!!! I think wood would absorb more sound but I think the steel would reverberate it back into the garage and with a good Vinyl weatherstripping around the outside also help keep it in the garage vs the gaps on each side of a wood door...necessary for operation. Close but I'd say steel. Now an insulated steel door with a 9R value....BINGO!! and only about a hundred bucks more than non insulated, totally worth it!!
How much was the door?? We need one in a standard garage door...,
itha2120 the video is many yrs old, I can't remember but it was ALOT. Best off getting a steel 1pc or steel sectional.
A lot? For some plywood and what 1x3's? Forgot those mega dollar cheap nails from Harbor Freight. And that lovely "latex" caulk LOL LOL.
@@jimdavidson5208 For the labor, overhead, and profit.
What are your thoughts on the steel rod reinforcement I usually see on the top and bottom of one-piece doors?
The truss rods are a must on anything over say...10-12ft they keep the door from sagging. people sometimes remove them so they can pull a taller vehicle into the garage but the door collapses shortly after so they are a must have.
@@ALLProGarageDoors Any idea where to buy one? I found the part number, Holmes TRK-14-6P. HD and Lowe's don't carry it anymore.
Brent Daugherty For the past few yrs I’ve been saving them off of old doors. They might be obsolete.
@@ALLProGarageDoors Oh man. I guess I'll pick up some slotted angle. Probably going to be a lot more expensive that those rods used to be.
@@ALLProGarageDoors I got lucky. Apparently a company called Apex in Burbank still makes the rods.
Watch the entire video just to see how you hung it the, only to not see how you hung it at all...🤷♂️
It is a great looking door and I learned a lot, just wish I'd seen how you hung it
Try this one.....th-cam.com/video/qcbuJdfbs1Q/w-d-xo.html
Why not screws instead of nails for better holding strength?
Nothing wrong with screws but it's just more pilot drilling and screwing which takes more time and makes it even more expensive than it already is.
@@ALLProGarageDoors Impact driver doesnt require pilot hole drilling?
Independence City Motoring I didn't use an impact on the door, i probably drilled a pilot or two when near an edge or knot but other than a staple gun for the ply thats about it.
Thanks , good ideea , let us know the system moving door !?
What kind of hangers that mount on this door that causes it to swing
The hinges are called "Holmes E-900" The springs were "Holmes 728-P"
I see you said to split 3/4 of an inch on the sides, but how much space do you leave at the top?
No space at the top. The door uses the header as a bumper and it should tuck up behind the header about an inch
@@ALLProGarageDoors I have never actually seen one of these doors in person so i am only going by what i see online. So the top of the door actually sits behind the opening about an inch? Then the door when it's closed is actually at a slight angle from top to bottom with the bottom sticking out into the opening part way?
@@maliburacer Yea kind of... in other words, it does sit behind the header but the cantelever arms on the hinges are designed to allow the door to stand straight up and down when adjusted. Sometimes it actually will have a slight angle outwards from top to bottom but in most cases it can be adjusted to almost perfect vertical.
@@ALLProGarageDoors OK, i think i get it. The entire door should sit basically even with the back of the door frame when it's adjusted correctly. I want to put a walk through door in the garage door and the garage door being at an angle would be bad.
@@maliburacer Exactly! it can be adjusted to very close if not perfectly vertical... most times. On very heavy doors the springs need to be bigger and bigger springs means more pressure when it's closed and that pressure doesn't always allow the door to sit perfectly vertical until it's locked in place
Ok thanks
No problem, any questions let me know.
How does that doors mechanics work? is there some kind of kit?
Nice job...lotta work!
thanks. 👍
Thanks Ben, there is a kit for the door called a Holmes E-900 Hardware kit. It comes with the hinges and springs along with some bumpers and assorted lags and bolts.
I am going to build my own. how much higher than the header do I have to be
depends on how thick your bottom weather seal is because the door can sit off the ground up to an inch but the average is about an inch above the header.
All-Pro Quality Garage Doors Inc. perfect thank you. does half inch on each side for reveal ok? do they make a weather seal the side or not? any recommendations for floor weather seal
scal760 they do make both, if i do a seal on the side i usually use the flat seal which is the same stuff i use on the bottom. You can a half inch on each side which is perfect if you have an opener, if you are going to work it by hand the go with a quarter inch gap on each side.
All-Pro Quality Garage Doors Inc. I really appreciate the quick replies. is there a name for the flat seal? could I get it at home Depot or Lowe's.
scal760 hang on I'll check when i get home...I'm on the road heading home now, I'll see if I can find a link.
Was that 2 by 4 top and bottom plates with 2 by 3 studs?
Yes.
I really wish you would have shown the door actually work, nice job on the build though.
From what I remember the garage was packed full of crap, it didn’t have an opener and the customer was a little sketchy, so I had to minimize my camera visibility. I think I did a little better on the “steel 1pc” video.
@@ALLProGarageDoors
Ahhh, i gotcha. ;)
I'm a door installer out by Detroit, was just curious to see it function.
I also like to do framing (I've done a lot of rebuilding the face of garages, redoing ties, whatever it takes to get a new door in), so this video was like a blending of the two for me. :D
Thanks for the reply.
Paul DeFillippo
I hear ya! It’s always interesting to me to see doors and neighborhoods from other parts of the US as well. Sometimes I forget that the 1pc door is mostly here in the south west states, I’m so used to them, they are the norm here.
@@ALLProGarageDoors
We have steel one piece doors out here, but they haven't been sold since the 90s so I'm tearing them out, not putting them in.
@@ALLProGarageDoors
One last question, was that a normal one piece set up or was that a California tilt or trackless one piece?
I got a one piece door on my garage at my condo in mission valley
Unfortunately there isn't enough ceiling height to upgrade to a modern roll up garage door. I had to rebuild a one piece door just the same.
Nice watch...Seiko 6309?
Great skill, but why would anyone want to replace an on old 1 piece tilt up with a new 1 piece tilt up?
Homeowners association required an exact replacement, otherwise it would have been crazy.
I have a one piece that I am tearing out. Springs popped in the middle of the night, sounded like a gun went off.
Yea they do tend to break at night, scares the hell out of folks.
All the garages have one piece doors at mission greens
Dont you need some metal pieces on the inside so the wood wont start to sag ib the middle
Yes, they are called Truss rods.
@@ALLProGarageDoors thank you ive been trying to look for them but didnt know the name my garage door collapsed on me because the side beams where rotted man it was a 1 piece garage door for 2 cars it was soo heavy i had 6 friends trying to carry it i think its the original garage door and my house was built in 1908
@@miguelplascencia2460 They definitely are heavy!! If you ever build a new one keep it light and very well painted, lighter seems to last longer these days. the ones we take down these days are in the best shape when painted inside and out.
золотые руки !
Nice video but the music is nerve-wracking
Whaaaa? the music is the best part!!
Plywood probably is delaminating by now. Shouldn’t use plywood strips for the 1x trim
Mr. Poopy Butthole If it’s painted properly you can use Russian toilet paper and it will be fine. Plywood is
more durable than say a doug fir 1x4 which will cup and warp at every knot. But then again... it all depends on the paint job. I’ve hung 1pc doors back in the 80s for every big player in San Diego and they all used strips of... you guessed it... plywood.
I'm going to pretend that Samuel Taylor didn't used to have his user name as Mr. Poopy Butthole, and the garage guy is insulting him.
Only works if you live in South Africa 🇿🇦
I have a one piece wooden door and it's only for a one car garage and it's incredibly heavy. I wouldn't recommend this, especially one this big. That door probably weighs between 300-400 pounds so if your power goes out you aren't getting it open.
The Internets .... I wouldn't recommend it either but every now and again you'll find a homeowners association that requires you replicate what is already there. Oh well... whatcha gonna do...
I guess the work they pay you to do.
The Internets thats about it. Although with the proper springs even a door this big can be made to lift with one hand, this job was done for an older lady and no opener was installed so she will be working it by hand.
Good to know. Mine is probably in need of new springs then. My house is 80 years old and I wouldn't be surprised if the springs are original. It's not terribly hard for me to open but I can't imagine my grandmother being able to get it open and closed safely.
The Internets that is possible that you are in need of new springs, i have a video on how to install them and balance the door but before you buy em make sure your hinges look like the ones in my holmes hardware video. If not then you might not be able to do springs, at that point try adjusting yours.
And good God you forgot the most important thing wood glue
is the cocking thick enough?
If it keeps water flowing off the door rather than behind the trim and into the door then yes...it's perfect!!
No it's not.
then what do you suggest, Mr Expert? Easy to be a contrarian
Ditch the Gum, other than that, nice video.
Where can I find truss rods?
Good question, to my knowledge they aren't available. Home depot sells a screw-together truss rod kit, or atleast they used to.
Thanks for your response, I have learned a lot from watching your videos. Couldn't find anything like this at Home Depot. Do you think this door that you built could go without truss rods? If not could I use a cable and turnbuckles to accomplish the same purpose with a standoff block in the center of the door to help prevent sag?
No problem Travis! I suppose cables could work but they will have to be thick and super tight. the door would collapse without some sort of truss support. Normally when I need truss rods I will take them off an old door I am replacing with a new one. I would venture to say that your best bet for finding good solid truss rods would be to locate about 2 or 3 local door dealers and swing by their shop after hrs and see what they are dumping out back. Most San Diego dealers will have a few decent one piece doors stacked up somewhere waiting for someone to come and load them up for the trip to Mexico, so truss rods are abundant here when needed simply by salvaging them off of old doors.
👍👍👍👍👍
All that work and the handle is crooked, nice work though
😆 just goes to show that you can’t even leave your crew to wrap up the simplest of things…they bungle it.
That cheap DAP latex caulk you are using will last about 5 months outside in direct sun. Use real GE 100% silicone next project.
jim davidson but paint doesn’t stick to 100% silicone, i think painters caulk if painted... should last. I’ll take a picture of the door up close next time i drive by it.
They make a paintable silicone. Wondering if it's as good as the non-paintable though..... You make a good point by top-coating the caulking with exterior paint.
jim davidson I drive by that job quite often so I’ll get some up close pics of the caulking.
I’m sitting in my truck in front of that door right now, i checked it out... the caulking is fine. Some spots look like they were done yesterday other spots look like they could use some fresh paint but all in all a total success! I took pics for future comments.
Points for following up to you. Probably didn't use primer and Sherwin Williams.
aghhhh !
How much was it for all the parts
Prolly around 5-6 hundred.
That's a lot of work to go through to then put the handle on crooked at the end.
rummy98 I totally agree!!so when I went back to check on the paint I fixed it, the installer said the grain on the 2x3 pulled on the handle.
Good job man!
Thanks Rummy! Can't put forth that much effort then screw up the easiest part. I always show my new guys that video...then show them the end with a crooked handle for a lesson. Your one of the very few if not the only one to have noticed...good job!
Yea buddy, people notice the fine details. They are also way more likely to talk about poor workmanship than good.
rummy98 I totally agree!
that door breaks like a stick ...
The door handle is crooked
jracer77 yep.... ain’t that a bitch when you spend all that time making a great door then leave it up to two cross-eyed knuckleheads to fumble the job on the one yard line?
Y
Rocking Rachelle let us not ask Y... but rather...Y not!