Always good information on your films. Nothing is ever a straight forward bolt on, so seeing you "making stuff fit" is re-assuring, I have been fussing over trying to fit repro roadster sub rails, closed car cowl, home made sub rail extensions /firewall mounts/ repro cowl side panels, etc. on our Sunday afternoon roadster project. My friend wisely said "It's just bl**dy metal, drill new holes!" Juggling a job, family, life and old cars is not easy, no pressure on video output, happy to catch up on your films whenever.
The pressure is mostly self-applied, Gordon. Thanks for the kind words. It certainly is only metal. I have drilled holes, welded them back up, and drilled them again a few times on this project so far. Have a great weekend!
Excellent progress. I like where you’re going. You can call those lightening holes, for weight ? Look cool anyway. You could dump a pint of por-15 in each rail and roll it around to coat everything inside since you have access. You would have to disassemble everything though. Lots of work. I just sprayed the inside. So here’s what we want you to do. Stay true to your job, spend as much time as you can with your family, you can never recapture the years when your children are growing. You were going to look back and wonder where the time went. Enjoy them my friend. The good thing about our cars is they will wait patiently for us. Never complaining. Never whining about how long it took in between episodes or portions of the build. Always happy to see you no matter how long you have to work on them. I’ve had a love affair with mine for well over 20 years. And among all other things being true to your faith. Have an excellent week Casey I’ll see you on the next one be safe in the shop.
Well said, Ron. Casey remember this hobby is fun…. Building a car is hard enough without TH-cam! We love your content but nobody wants you to burn out or neglect important things, for our viewing pleasure. Relax.
@@flatheadronsgarage7345 Thank you for that. It’s good to keep cognoscente of the important things in life. Believe it or not, I actually do really good at balance, I think. Thank you very much for the kind words, and YOU have an excellent week as well.
@@IowaMercMan, I don’t look relaxed!? 😂 Haha. I appreciate the positive reinforcement, sir. Thank you. I promise I’m doing a good job of balancing all of the things. I just don’t sleep that much. 😊 Now if only I could get a darn refrigerator that works (we’ve gotten two defective units in a row, and still living out of an ice chest waiting on the third one. The pandemic’s got consumer goods all messed up. Sheesh! Thanks again. I really do appreciate you guys appreciating what I’m doing.
Hi Cory great stuff really enjoying the channel. Any chance could you talk about some traditional hot rodding history? Maybe show some of your friends cars talk about the style/period?
That’s solid feedback, Chris. My knowledge is somewhat limited, but I think I can probably do something like that in some future videos. Let me marinate on that idea a bit, and I’ll see what I can come up with.
For that frame hole you cannot drill..Take your cutoff wheel cut out the top of the frame equal distance to width weld a nut to the back side and reweld the plug back in place. That area on both sides should not be under excess pressure as to breaking those nuts free. Just way FOR THOSE 2 MOUNTING POINTS I WOULD DO IT.. GREAT VIDEOS
That’s a solid plan, Jason. I actually usually just step-bit out a hole until the nut just kisses the sides, and then TIG in around the edges. Your way is better, but I’ve never had a failure. That is a good call, and I may very well do it.
Thanks Murph! If I were going to drill through both sides of the frame, I would sleeve the holes. Since the boxing plate was added to the original Model A c-channel, I don’t think the holes will significantly affect the strength of the overall frame.
The are three main reasons I didn’t use nut-serts: 1) From Ford, the holes are oversized to allow some fiddling of the final body position. To use a nut-sert, I’d first have to weld those holes up, and then transfer my subrail hole locations (already drilled) to the frame, then re-drill the holes to be nut-sert’d. 2) Several of the A body mount holes use carriage bolts, and I’ve already gone to an excruciating amount of time filing the drilled holes in my subrails into squares to hold a carriage bolt firmly. 3) I kind of actually always envisioned the aesthetic of the drilled boxing plates. I’m only second-guessing that idea now that I’ve drilled four of what will ultimately be about 22 total holes. 😳 But nothing easy is ever cool.
Always good information on your films. Nothing is ever a straight forward bolt on, so seeing you "making stuff fit" is re-assuring, I have been fussing over trying to fit repro roadster sub rails, closed car cowl, home made sub rail extensions /firewall mounts/ repro cowl side panels, etc. on our Sunday afternoon roadster project. My friend wisely said "It's just bl**dy metal, drill new holes!"
Juggling a job, family, life and old cars is not easy, no pressure on video output, happy to catch up on your films whenever.
The pressure is mostly self-applied, Gordon. Thanks for the kind words. It certainly is only metal. I have drilled holes, welded them back up, and drilled them again a few times on this project so far. Have a great weekend!
Excellent progress. I like where you’re going. You can call those lightening holes, for weight ? Look cool anyway. You could dump a pint of por-15 in each rail and roll it around to coat everything inside since you have access. You would have to disassemble everything though. Lots of work. I just sprayed the inside. So here’s what we want you to do. Stay true to your job, spend as much time as you can with your family, you can never recapture the years when your children are growing. You were going to look back and wonder where the time went. Enjoy them my friend. The good thing about our cars is they will wait patiently for us. Never complaining. Never whining about how long it took in between episodes or portions of the build. Always happy to see you no matter how long you have to work on them. I’ve had a love affair with mine for well over 20 years. And among all other things being true to your faith. Have an excellent week Casey I’ll see you on the next one be safe in the shop.
Well said, Ron. Casey remember this hobby is fun…. Building a car is hard enough without TH-cam! We love your content but nobody wants you to burn out or neglect important things, for our viewing pleasure. Relax.
@@IowaMercMan you got it my friend.
@@flatheadronsgarage7345 Thank you for that. It’s good to keep cognoscente of the important things in life. Believe it or not, I actually do really good at balance, I think. Thank you very much for the kind words, and YOU have an excellent week as well.
@@IowaMercMan, I don’t look relaxed!? 😂 Haha. I appreciate the positive reinforcement, sir. Thank you. I promise I’m doing a good job of balancing all of the things. I just don’t sleep that much. 😊 Now if only I could get a darn refrigerator that works (we’ve gotten two defective units in a row, and still living out of an ice chest waiting on the third one. The pandemic’s got consumer goods all messed up. Sheesh!
Thanks again. I really do appreciate you guys appreciating what I’m doing.
Great video! Enjoy watching them as soon as they come up!
Thanks Smackey’s! That’s awesome to hear.
Good looking old Ford roadster it looks li she just came off the show room floor 💯🇺🇸👍👀
Thanks John! That’s what I’m going for. My hope is, at the end, that somebody thinks this was a Rod built in the ‘50’s.
Hi Cory great stuff really enjoying the channel.
Any chance could you talk about some traditional hot rodding history?
Maybe show some of your friends cars talk about the style/period?
That’s solid feedback, Chris. My knowledge is somewhat limited, but I think I can probably do something like that in some future videos. Let me marinate on that idea a bit, and I’ll see what I can come up with.
For that frame hole you cannot drill..Take your cutoff wheel cut out the top of the frame equal distance to width weld a nut to the back side and reweld the plug back in place.
That area on both sides should not be under excess pressure as to breaking those nuts free.
Just way FOR THOSE 2 MOUNTING POINTS I WOULD DO IT..
GREAT VIDEOS
That’s a solid plan, Jason. I actually usually just step-bit out a hole until the nut just kisses the sides, and then TIG in around the edges. Your way is better, but I’ve never had a failure. That is a good call, and I may very well do it.
Oh…also. Thank you for the compliment.
Great video so far bro! Question... when u drill a hole in the frame to bolt the body on, do you weld a sleeve into the hole for strength?
Thanks Murph! If I were going to drill through both sides of the frame, I would sleeve the holes. Since the boxing plate was added to the original Model A c-channel, I don’t think the holes will significantly affect the strength of the overall frame.
You coping my hair cut?
Crazy Casey’s Covid Cuts Aussie Jas! I’d say come on down for one, but they say that defeats the purpose. 😂
You could have saved yourself a lot of work by using nutserts...
The are three main reasons I didn’t use nut-serts:
1) From Ford, the holes are oversized to allow some fiddling of the final body position. To use a nut-sert, I’d first have to weld those holes up, and then transfer my subrail hole locations (already drilled) to the frame, then re-drill the holes to be nut-sert’d.
2) Several of the A body mount holes use carriage bolts, and I’ve already gone to an excruciating amount of time filing the drilled holes in my subrails into squares to hold a carriage bolt firmly.
3) I kind of actually always envisioned the aesthetic of the drilled boxing plates. I’m only second-guessing that idea now that I’ve drilled four of what will ultimately be about 22 total holes. 😳 But nothing easy is ever cool.
nut serts wont work for mounting the body they will pull out
@@glenncutright9769 I used them on my T-bucket 40 years ago with no problems encountered. It depends on the quality and care in installation.