Down the road I looked back on my buggy R&D as part of the fun of creating my ride but it sucked when it broke far from home or camp. Love that Turbo muffler and diagnostics on the trail. 10 thumbs up for you and yours.👍
Thanks! I am taking the hard path but learning a lot as I go. Looking back, getting a nice 6-rib built and going that route would of been a lot easier for me using some of the great parts that are already on the market. BUT here we are, I will continue on until this setup is reliable and meets my needs. Thanks for watching.
A. A regular automotive drive shafts on rear live axles usually do have spline joints. B. Double Cardan joints on offroaders’ driveshafts-those were everywhere: Chevrolet, Ford, Jeep, Dodge, Toyota… They do hold steep angles and, being designed for offroad vehicles, they do hold torque. Maybe it is possible to weld together a wheel drive shaft with two DC joints on each side and a spline joint in between? That would be an overkill heavy duty pair of drive shafts for the buggy!😂
Guys used to do similar back in the day before better CVs were available. 2 U joints and the entire center shaft was a slip section. I am going to upgrade to much larger CVs and try to fix the axle angle some. At least the new CVs are rebuildable on the side of the trail vs the entire exle replacements I am doing now
@@spankranchgarage Oh, I'm kinda late with my 'thoughts'. Okay, I'm backing off and just waiting to see what is it you came up with.🙃 Cheers, man! It's a pleasure to see you work! 🙇♂
That really seems like the geometry relative to that transaxle is all wrong. like if everything was moved a few inches back everything might play nice together. but very cool all the same.
Yeah the geometry totally sucks. Its either a matter of stretching the frame and moving the seats forward to move the motor/trans forward, or moving the rear wheels backwards. The latter gaining more suspension travel which would be desirable. My holdup is rear axle weight and overall weight distribution. The current balance is really good and I don't want to lose traction stretching the wheelbase. Unlike the paddle tire sand rails that are mid engine, traction isn't so easy to get in the dirt. Im thinking if I move some weight to the back I can offset some of the rear axle weight lost due to the stretch. (Battery, fuel tank, radiator, etc)
I know you just finished up the rear arms but have you thought about bringing them back further to get the CV axles in a straight line? Looking good! you are more brave than I taking her out hardly tested!
Unfortunately it seems like you might have no choice but to extend the swing arms. Hopefully that doesnt ruin the way it drives like you were saying. Unless you make some kind of crazy portal axle chain drive jack shaft thing. Love your grassroots videos man.
Stretching the wheelbase is likely the move. I want to gather some axle weight data and do some thinking on this. Some chain drive boxes are on my mind too... Likely overcomplicating this even more but the opportunity to get more gear ratio out of it is intriguing to me.
It was the advance auto axle in the buggy and the auto zone axle in the bag, right? Did you blow the first spare, too, and i just missed it? I started my sandrail project with a 3cyl 5speed metro, but its moving a lot slower than your build 😅
The advance auto axle held up for the ride and is still installed. The autozone was just a spare that I didn't end up needing. I returned it since then. Thanks for watching and good luck with your build!
for how often you've had to replace the axle, its a bummer that its an older style subie transaxle with the spring pin retaining it all. the newer design doesn't require a punch but i guess you'd also lose the ability to get the gearing you built out. Question, if memory serves me correct, I feel like it's always the right side axle....I could be wrong but maybe something there
I broke 2 lefts and 1 right at this point I think. If I put a newer suby carrier in this trans I could probably run the "pop-in" axles. But I think custom output flanges are in my near future
Trailing arms are too short creating extreme angles on your axle shafts . Rear wheels definitely need to be parallel with the shaft outputs on transaxle. It will ride significantly better if done correctly. You'll just keep breaking those CV joints until you fix that geometry
They are already +4 or +5 over the stock WV arm length. The real issue is the frame design and the motor placement. I am going to build arms that are even longer next. They are getting very long at this point, smooth ride and lots of travel will be easy. I will need new coilovers to support the weight with all this leverage ratio.
Did you ever figure out your engine tuning? I put a 1.4 in my rail but couldn’t ever get the tuning for the rpm. I was told it couldn’t be done without a wheel speed sensor.
Its only 69" wide at the moment. Keeping it narrow (compared to most buggies) was important to me so I can ride more trails. Though with new SXSs being so wide trails are getting wider in general
@@spankranchgarage Dang, 69"? I thought for sure you'd have it on the 60-64" width given the VW bug front suspension, but you're actually much closer to the wide 72" SxS width than that. Interesting. Would 64" be more suitable to a single seater and 72" probably better for 2 seaters?
@@Drunken_Hamster You can probably get away with 64" on a single seat. I find that when you run bigger front tires they will rub the frame when turning so you need to keep them spaced out to clear (on a 2 seater). A narrower frame and smaller tires would work up front. But dont forget that narrow in the rear also leaves you with shorter axle shafts and more CV angle. Its all a compromise based on what you want to do with it.
@@spankranchgarage Well, I'd also say it depends on how you set up your wheelbase and tire size. And I guess how angled you want to put your legs. After all, manufacturers make 64" 2 and 4 seaters all the time. It's one of the standards, and in some states, they force you under 65" to register them or whatever, anyway.
I'm not saying 930s is the wrong answer tho, they get hot but I haven't had one blow up (knock on wood) yet! My Buggies is 2000 lb 4 seater with a 270 HP V6. My evidence is anecdotal.
Can you send me a 3d print file to print out the guide for drilling my drums. Trying to do the same thing you have and came across your video from 2 years ago. My brother has a 3d printer and I think I could drill my drums out with those guides and I have a tractor supply in AZ near me too
Down the road I looked back on my buggy R&D as part of the fun of creating my ride but it sucked when it broke far from home or camp. Love that Turbo muffler and diagnostics on the trail. 10 thumbs up for you and yours.👍
Thanks! I am taking the hard path but learning a lot as I go. Looking back, getting a nice 6-rib built and going that route would of been a lot easier for me using some of the great parts that are already on the market. BUT here we are, I will continue on until this setup is reliable and meets my needs. Thanks for watching.
The buggy sounds awesome! Once you get the axle situation sorted, its going to be a killer
Good to see it out rippin again. Too bad about the axle. Looking forward to seeing what you figure out for a solution back at the shop.
A. A regular automotive drive shafts on rear live axles usually do have spline joints.
B. Double Cardan joints on offroaders’ driveshafts-those were everywhere: Chevrolet, Ford, Jeep, Dodge, Toyota… They do hold steep angles and, being designed for offroad vehicles, they do hold torque.
Maybe it is possible to weld together a wheel drive shaft with two DC joints on each side and a spline joint in between?
That would be an overkill heavy duty pair of drive shafts for the buggy!😂
Guys used to do similar back in the day before better CVs were available. 2 U joints and the entire center shaft was a slip section. I am going to upgrade to much larger CVs and try to fix the axle angle some. At least the new CVs are rebuildable on the side of the trail vs the entire exle replacements I am doing now
@@spankranchgarage
Oh, I'm kinda late with my 'thoughts'.
Okay, I'm backing off and just waiting to see what is it you came up with.🙃
Cheers, man! It's a pleasure to see you work!
🙇♂
More to come soon, I just rolled the buggy up to the garage this weekend
The buggy’s sweet and all but i wanna see more cabin building content
Thats boring!
@@spankranchgarage nah shits cool
That really seems like the geometry relative to that transaxle is all wrong. like if everything was moved a few inches back everything might play nice together. but very cool all the same.
I feel the 930s will have less tolerance for your forward angle. I agree longer trailing arms may be the key. Kickass build!
Yeah the geometry totally sucks. Its either a matter of stretching the frame and moving the seats forward to move the motor/trans forward, or moving the rear wheels backwards. The latter gaining more suspension travel which would be desirable. My holdup is rear axle weight and overall weight distribution. The current balance is really good and I don't want to lose traction stretching the wheelbase. Unlike the paddle tire sand rails that are mid engine, traction isn't so easy to get in the dirt. Im thinking if I move some weight to the back I can offset some of the rear axle weight lost due to the stretch. (Battery, fuel tank, radiator, etc)
Need to align the axel straight that fix it . I like your project .nice
Going to align them "better" but not all the way. Then upgrading to a 930 size CV hoping that will be enough to hold it together.
Extend the rear arms, use the subaru to 930 cv flanges and run 930 cvs and axles. Should be able to reclaim some lost ground clearance that way too
That’s the exact plan!
ready to see this thing rip!
VW, Water pumpers are a pain in the backside
I know you just finished up the rear arms but have you thought about bringing them back further to get the CV axles in a straight line? Looking good! you are more brave than I taking her out hardly tested!
Thats ultimately what I should do but I want to explore a few options before I go that way
Dude I forgot so much stuff for LS Fest 😂 My wife is the planner and she didn't go
Love the LE2 tuning part ! What size of metal lathe do you have? Thanks for the videos !
Thanks! Its an old 12x36 craftsman/atlas. Cheap and weak but I have made a lot of great parts on it. A good starter lathe.
Unfortunately it seems like you might have no choice but to extend the swing arms. Hopefully that doesnt ruin the way it drives like you were saying. Unless you make some kind of crazy portal axle chain drive jack shaft thing. Love your grassroots videos man.
Stretching the wheelbase is likely the move. I want to gather some axle weight data and do some thinking on this. Some chain drive boxes are on my mind too... Likely overcomplicating this even more but the opportunity to get more gear ratio out of it is intriguing to me.
also maybe pipe sleeving the long tierod for extra strength
It was the advance auto axle in the buggy and the auto zone axle in the bag, right? Did you blow the first spare, too, and i just missed it? I started my sandrail project with a 3cyl 5speed metro, but its moving a lot slower than your build 😅
The advance auto axle held up for the ride and is still installed. The autozone was just a spare that I didn't end up needing. I returned it since then. Thanks for watching and good luck with your build!
for how often you've had to replace the axle, its a bummer that its an older style subie transaxle with the spring pin retaining it all. the newer design doesn't require a punch but i guess you'd also lose the ability to get the gearing you built out. Question, if memory serves me correct, I feel like it's always the right side axle....I could be wrong but maybe something there
I broke 2 lefts and 1 right at this point I think. If I put a newer suby carrier in this trans I could probably run the "pop-in" axles. But I think custom output flanges are in my near future
Trailing arms are too short creating extreme angles on your axle shafts . Rear wheels definitely need to be parallel with the shaft outputs on transaxle. It will ride significantly better if done correctly. You'll just keep breaking those CV joints until you fix that geometry
They are already +4 or +5 over the stock WV arm length. The real issue is the frame design and the motor placement. I am going to build arms that are even longer next. They are getting very long at this point, smooth ride and lots of travel will be easy. I will need new coilovers to support the weight with all this leverage ratio.
lmk when I should dust the 2002 off for some trail riding
15:16, sounds like you have a really interactive podcast going in the background! Shout out @DiariesofaWorkingCouple
Did you ever figure out your engine tuning? I put a 1.4 in my rail but couldn’t ever get the tuning for the rpm. I was told it couldn’t be done without a wheel speed sensor.
I have it running pretty good but I am not sure it makes full power yet. Ill have it back on the dyno in the spring to get it all figured out
The subie shafts are serviceable
Maybe OEM or OEM style ones are. These trakmotive ones have the star peened to the shaft. They are getting replaced with 930 style CVs
How wide is this thing, man? It looks like it's fitting through some pretty narrow trails.
Its only 69" wide at the moment. Keeping it narrow (compared to most buggies) was important to me so I can ride more trails. Though with new SXSs being so wide trails are getting wider in general
@@spankranchgarage Dang, 69"? I thought for sure you'd have it on the 60-64" width given the VW bug front suspension, but you're actually much closer to the wide 72" SxS width than that. Interesting. Would 64" be more suitable to a single seater and 72" probably better for 2 seaters?
@@Drunken_Hamster You can probably get away with 64" on a single seat. I find that when you run bigger front tires they will rub the frame when turning so you need to keep them spaced out to clear (on a 2 seater). A narrower frame and smaller tires would work up front. But dont forget that narrow in the rear also leaves you with shorter axle shafts and more CV angle. Its all a compromise based on what you want to do with it.
@@spankranchgarage Well, I'd also say it depends on how you set up your wheelbase and tire size. And I guess how angled you want to put your legs. After all, manufacturers make 64" 2 and 4 seaters all the time. It's one of the standards, and in some states, they force you under 65" to register them or whatever, anyway.
You can fry bacon on 930s when you run them at max angle 😂, your 1.4 sounds odly VW ish.
the growl from that wide stubby pipe with no muffler is *delicious*
I'm not saying 930s is the wrong answer tho, they get hot but I haven't had one blow up (knock on wood) yet! My Buggies is 2000 lb 4 seater with a 270 HP V6. My evidence is anecdotal.
Time for an e36 steering rack and front knuckles
Im thinking a combination of Prius and Miata for that.... but well see!
@@spankranchgarage i like the sounds of this!
Can you send me a 3d print file to print out the guide for drilling my drums. Trying to do the same thing you have and came across your video from 2 years ago. My brother has a 3d printer and I think I could drill my drums out with those guides and I have a tractor supply in AZ near me too
Shoot me an email at Barry@spankranchgarage.com
think about moving your rear wheels back more and longer travel ....... just a thought
Thats the best solution for sure. I have some things to think about for that. Thanks for watching