Timing Chain, Ford Mondeo Mk3 2L Duratec
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 เม.ย. 2020
- Timing Chain, Ford Mondeo Mk3 2L Duratec.
Thought i would check out what kind of a job the timing chain is to replace.
In the car its tight and not a very nice job but i am surprised by the quality of the timing chain. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
as a ford guy , this channel is pure gold ! NEVER STOP please !
thanks
@@alan4x i did my chain replacement like you . but now, i have a sound like turbo when i rev the engine .... any idea? ( like a turbo whistle ) . every hose is on place, no dtc....
There's really a lot of knowledge involved in this kind of work. It's nice that you are showing it to people.
cheers mikofi
😀
@@abderrahimhaddanitankioupr9367 it was gold!
Thx, this is my 3rd mondeo sinds 2005. Love these cars and I maintanace and repair it myself. Easy to acces and not much electronics. Never had an electronix failure. Netherlands!!!
Ik heb ook een mondeo uit 2005 waar in Nederland zit je? Heb je interesse in een betalende klant ter reparatie?
@@blackdynamite9940 Ik woon in Capelle a/d IJssel. Wat is het probleem?
Mijn email is brahmanrob@gmail.com. Ik hoor het wel.
@@blackdynamite9940 Heb al eerder een bericht gestuurd, maar geen reaktie. Ik woon in Capelle aan den IJssel. Ik wil je best helpen met je auto. Ik hoor het wel. Gr Rob.
@@robbeguine612 hi dank voor je reactie ik heb je zojuist een mailtje gestuurd 😉
Nice one mate thanks. Was scratching my head but the crankshaft sprocket floating has explained the mystery!!
Right in time! Thank You Alan :) hearty greetings from Warsaw
Absolutely brilliant videos, Alan. I have used them for many tasks with complete success. Havent tried a cambelt yet, but done the Mondeo V front hub bearing, LED lights and rear pads. Great!.
thats fantastic, thanks smarty, funny thing is sometimes i have to watch my own videos when i forget to do things lol
I'm no mechanic but really love your vids mate, you know what you're doing and seem to have a lot of fun at work - good for you
thanks romac😊
OMG Thank you for making this video. Someone ripped me off when I bought a LS foucs and I decided to do a full rebuild instead of wasting money and trashing the car. I pulled the motor out and started to strip it. When I discovered it had do timing marks I was ready to give up and admit defeat to satan and start crying. I'm going to continue to proceed now that I have some grip on the concept. Thank you
your welcome david
Hi Alan, i just want to thank you for thsi video. I'm about to put one of these engines from a breakers into my mk3 Mondeo Ghia X, currently burns about 1 litre of oil per week and i'm refreshing all the bottom end seals. This has just made my little project so much easier. Big thanks mate, think you've earned a sub.
thanks tam..glad it helped
Thanks for sparing me the mind-bending music.
lmao😁
Since I bought a mondeo mk4 duratec 2.0 a month ago for my wife to drive around the city, this video will help me to take care of the timing chain and the camshafts for checking the valve clearance. I'm planing to install LPG as well then this has to be checked quite often. I've seen stretched timing chains in this engines especially with LPG. If you ever have chance to make a video about Valve Clearance Adjustment in Duratec engines, please make it. Most people don't know they have to check Valve Clearance from time to time especially in high mileage cars and quite often when using LPG. Thanks for all your videos.
Great job. These engines are nicely built for the technician bit like the 1.8tdci.
Thx man for all hard work you put in.
I currently own a 2006 1.8 mk3 petrol, I've had it close to 5 years , been pretty reliable , I have replaced the chain and its parts etc as the tensioner gave up most likely down to poor servicing on the previous owner , although the car isn't all that powerful , its reliability makes up for this , everyone I talk to tell me that the engine itself doesn't last all that long due to the piston ring and manifold problem , it hasn't had either problem show and the car is currently on 188000 miles and is still quiet, cant fault the duratecs , thanks for posting mate
I do this for a living yet I find myself watching this?
Great info Al as usual
Your camera work is excellent
More Monica please
Eyes off, she's mine
cheers dragster 46😊
Thank You for Your contribution to society of ford. Bet You have helped a lot of people with this video.
thanks kon😊
Love the multilink chain - looks so solid and stable in comparison to W203 or BMW as you've said ⛓️ thank you for showing!
I could not think of doing a job like that , that's why i change my oil at 5000 miles and drive it like i am running it in, but love watching you in your videos cheers Alan.
thanks charles..🤪
Nice job, that's very funny and interesting to watch (:
My poverty engine just burned 2 valves at 170k, I never touched the engine part from service - great video thank you
Hi Alan. Thanks for this very good video. I have seen it already 3 times. Best greetings from Germany. Klaus
Quality work as ever.
I'd agree that to do that with the engine still fitted would be almost impossible, especially trying to do the locking pins and crankshaft torque.
FYI - The crankshaft pulley, the timing teeth works on the principal on one tooth missing. There was a full ring of time, equally spaced but where TDC is, there is one tooth missing. Some engines do one tooth missing the others do one singe tooth at TDC.
I'm waiting on the next video where you pull apart the bottom end so that we can see some melted bearings :)
right oh lol..i will when in get time🤪
my poverty engine in my mk4 mondeo still going strong. 149k and still drives superb. 36.6 mpg combined and uses no oil between changes. the cam chains are pretty robust but its all about maintenance, I change the oil every 6k and the engine is super quiet on the move.
You are great mechanic and narrator!
Great clear camera work. You know the game, like you said, not a great job in the car!
A lot of so called mechanics waffle on and don't actually explain things clearly or correctly however Alan does plus he adds a bit of humour to boot! Great video sir! Bingo!
thank you E Rashio😁
Awesome video. It was informative and very entertaining. Thanks.
It’s an incredible simple chain system compared to newer engines
Great educational and informative video 👌👍👏👏
Great video, would love to see how the oil pump chain is changed as well thou, as I would like to change mine while I have it all apart 🤔👍
Nice job very interesting keep them coming mate 👍👍👍
cheers anthony
Thanks for this upload great information. Wondering if you can help as I replaced head gasket done the timing but can't get the motor to start. Any ideas on what to look at
My mk4 petrol has done 141,000 miles and is whisper quiet, uses no oil and gets me 36mpg. The duratec is a Japanese designed engine that's got enough torque to pull in a high gear at lower speed. The v6 duratec is not so robust with many suffering head gasket failures. I had 2 mk1 v6 mondeos that both went the same way. My first was a v6 S.i and the second was a ghia x. The problem was with the waterpump that had the plastic impeller which would detach from the shaft which resulted in overheating. And once those v6 engines cook then head gasket failure is virtually inevitable. Weak spots on that engine were cylinders 3 and 5 that would eventually 'vent', both mine made a ticking noise that sounded like an exhaust leak. Very few if any problems with the 2.0 engine and is a good balance between power and economy. Great video by the way!
Simon I have the same car. I am doubting the dual mass flywheel however, which I believe is fitted. How is yours? Otherwise perfect engine except valve cover stuck like Alan showed
thanks simon, nice information
@@marinusapeldoorn6631 I had the clutch and flywheel done last year. The petrol version is a lot kinder to the flywheel than diesels which produce more torque. The one I had fitted was a brand called LUK. I changed the auxillary belt, idle pulley and tensioner, they have a long service interval of 150k miles! I changed the valve cover gasket too as there was a bit of oil that had leaked into spark plug ports 2 and 4. Usual wear and tear items like discs and pads and tyres etc too. Still has the original exhaust and cat though! Probably the most comfortable car I've ever driven.
@@simonjohnhinton1938 I bought mine at 80000 miles at a Ford dealership. Immaculate car but shock absorbers totally worn and major oil leak from right hand drive gear box oil seal, which had been able to be ignored by 3 different Ford dealers who maintained the car during the first 9 years of its life. The selling Ford dealer cleaned up the gear box and hoped I didn' t notice. However I did and the right hand horizontal drive shaft part had to be replaced because of not being round enough or being too rough on the surface, causing the oil seal to be broken again every time it was replaced under guarantee. Car is fine now, I had the shocks replaced by Bilstein B6. Would you be willing for a little technical experiment which is not too complicated, just out of technical curiosity? Regards from Netherlands.
Man you just made things a lot better for what I have to do. I had the exhaust cam jump a couple teeth due to a mistake I made that I won't get into. The fact that the cam gears aren't keyed to the cams means I can just loosen the bolt on the exhaust cam, advance it back to the proper position with the intake cam, and then just retighten the bolt.
Inspection camera showed no metal bits or damage to the pistons, whether I bent the exhaust valves is yet to be determined.
hope you get it sorted
Brilliant straight forward, no shit music, excellent description, helped me understand what I'm up against when I do mine 🤯
Great video as usual Alan.
At 25:30 you mention about being able to loosen the camshaft sprocket bolts if the locking tool wasn't fitting into the slots in the other end of the camshafts but that while you could re- tighten the sprocket bolts, you couldn't torque them. All would not be lost though, if you had crowfoot wrenches available. :)
thanks for that comment rommel..that is an excellent way🙃
That's 100% useful well explained video.. thanks a lot mate.
Great job a lot of knowledge. Now I know why people said this timing was hard without the right tools.🤔👍
Thanks 👍
Great video, well explained. 😉👍
Allen
You are so cool man
Brilliant video again
Phil in stoke
Brilliant video , I learnt a lot , thankyou
Nice video.
Greetings from Brazil.
Best video, I’ve found on this subject,
Glad it was helpful
Nice.
I have no words other than this
Top quality video Alan
cheers william
Great video. This is the only video on you tube which explains this. THANKS🎉😂
Lovly video from great Man. Thank you
cheers bartbike😊
Good video Alan. nice to see the timing tools in use before tackling the job. Any idea what kind of mileage that Duratec's done?
Your accent is addressing my ancestors 😂 great channel🤙🏻
You make great videos
You can use a normal bolt instead of the pin, just put it at top dead center and then put the bolt in till it is up against the crank, it can't turn anymore than your bolt and its got more surface area so you don't have to worry about bending the pin when you mess with your pulley for the crank
Thank you for sharing, maybe I'd be able to repeat your steps (but wouldn't dare in the end because too much money involved if I do anything wrong). Very interesting to see though. Wish you a nice day! :)
i have never had one of those chains fail so hopefully you never will need to do one😁
@ 4:19 you actually broke a piece off... I have watched this video several times... and I just now realized this.!! Great video fyi!
Nice video my friend...cheers from Portugal and stay safe
cheers ricardo, stay safe yourself
Really found this video super helpful...i am just wondering...what is the actual length of that special screw tool if i wanted to make one?
Mines had a lot of maintenance over the years. (Touch wood) it's had a pretty hard life before I had it. (640000 miles). I then do a fair bit of standard maintenance on this engine and its now on 160000 miles. I've had my fun with it but it still sound solid. Despite the horror stories of the butter made bottom end on the ford fiesta St 150.
This budget Bruce Willis knows his shit.
Glad I found this video have the same engine but I lost compression sounds like a bunch of marbles need to remove the head helps me quite a bit with the timing do you have a video on head removal thanks for your help
Great video, thanks for this,
Has a 2.0L 2013 Diesel Titanium X 140TDCi have a Chain or belt timing
Great video might have to do this on my fiesta st150 👍
Thank You. Confirms what I've been told about timing chains (clearly my rattle is not from there) and advises me that this is clearly not to be attempted 'engine in', and is perhaps impossible (no clearance to remove bolts / casing, even after you've struggled to get at them)
Nice video! I just bought my ford Mondeo 2006 Mk3 Station Wagon (BWY) 1.8L Benzine 125 PK. After 5 days I found out it’s used 1 liter oil on 100km 😕. Now I wanna rebuild the engine, but I have a few questions. 1: How can I check if my timing chain need to be replaced. 2: Do I need to replace my pistons and hone the cilinders (or can I only replace the rings on the pistons. 3: If I loose my piston rods do I need te replace the bearings if they look ok?. I hope you can help me out, and if you have other tips please let me know! Thank you so much! Friendly regards, Toby
You are a bloody genius dude
thanks marinus 🤪
Just brought a 03 reg 2.0 x only 50k on the clock great news that these are really reliable 👍
I am a big fan of the Mk3 Mondeo, I've had 4 of them. On the 03 model you might want to look out for this problem between 80 and 120K miles. th-cam.com/video/amRXA22ofds/w-d-xo.html
Hey there Alan, really enjoy your entertaining approach to vids. I'm looking at a 2.3L Duratec with a leaking front crank seal. I believe this is the same 2.3L in the pre-skyactiv Mazda6's?? In any case, I'm just trying to be certain as to whether I can remove the crank pulley to get to the seal without having to do all the re-timing palava ... ie is the timing sprocket loose behind the pulley or fixed to the crank timing chain sprocket so it can't move once pulley is removed. Thanks;-)
Hi I’m amazed as a trainee looking at that crankshaft pulley having no key way hopefully that bolt that holds the pulley is torqued up really high because as you say the oil pump sprocket on the crank shaft is held in place by the compression of that bolt meaning a lose bolt could with the engine running allow the oil pump to free wheel and stop functioning. I’m really surprised fords allowed that?
Great vids alan.
This is a *MAZDA Engine Type L6*.
I think from the time periode Mazda and Ford have a closer look what they have developed ...
Ford only changed a few thinks (I think).
As far as I know there is in the Mondeo MK3 commuity *in germany absolute no owner with a lose pulley*.
Attention = the petrol 1,8 Li Duratec SCi directinjection engine is a lot different and have a lot identcal parts but the expensive parts + service ... ok I stop at thise point ...
(see the intake camshaft and you understand and all around the directinjection AND search for internet forum).
Glad you done a Duratec HE engine, funny how you made reference to the oil drinking, I have this problem in mt Fiesta ST150, its the same engine, aperently its a problem with the oil control piston rings, mines parked up till one day when I have the time and energy to attemt a rebuild.... or maybe I could find a mondeo and swap the higher spec head? Anyways Thanks
Hello mate I work as a fork truck engineer
And the chain on the 2 litre ford petrol engine is very similar
With multiple plates on a single link
So basically if the same style on chain on a counter balance is similar in design typically the ford chain I'd say is damb near indestructible
Any just thought I'd add a different perspective
Love the videos
I've got the 1.8 lynx engine(converted to chain....wet chain)
And a mk3 duratorq 2.0 litre in a focus titanium x navigator
Cheers mate
British is the best on the world to explain techinacly stuff !!
Thanks good explanation!
Hi Allan, its great to see your videos and those funny moments (Brit humor :D ) and because i have been searching in your channel about a 2.0D for these mk3 engines here am i asking for help. I see several guys posting a lot of knowledge but it feels awesome to see the simplicity you tackle several problems. I tried to send you pm using yt but isnt available because im trying to learn how to fix my own mk3 2.0d and maybe you can help me by giving me some leads or tip top. my glow-plugs got stacked and the only way to remove them is to get out the engine or disassemble it from the top (engine bay) but before i even try i would like to ask you for advice and the torque values to tight back these elements. thanks in advance. cheers from poland
Alan, you are a top guy. I have watched this video over and over. I have the early mk4 Mondeo, with 175000 on clock, so practically the same. I love your channel and It gave me inspiration to checking my timing, chain and auxiliary belt and pulleys whilst it was still in the car! I followed your advice, took pictures videos and was very methodical. I loved every minute.
My only issue no is the car turns the engine but makes no and I mean no attempt to start. I know what your thinking... battery - new, spark plugs new and tested, starter fine. I have spark. Fuel - yes, pump working and evidence of fuel in the cylinder. Compression... still waiting to complete this test which is likely to be Tuesday now. Cam sensor replaced new. The car had no real issues before the replacement, although the chain had suffered with a bit of stretch and the tensioner was on its last legs.
Any advice...
Did you find anything?
@@maxevans9688 - Well put it this way. I went mental and stripped the entire engine after I found the stretch.
For me, the timing was out. Because I did a full strip down including the head gasket. Before rebuilding. I manage to solve the issue.
I really enjoyed myself. The only advice I could give is take pictures and videos and label everything.
Turning the key after and watching the car fire up…
“Priceless”
Spot-on
VAG and BMW could learn a thing or two from Ford on how to design a good timing chain set up, tell Monica I still love her.
vincent o'donnell you mean mazda, it’s a mazda engine
@@WOER-jt3hv Thanks for that, so the Japanese win again.
So much for German engineering quality
@@WOER-jt3hv Isn't this a PSA engine?
i didn't know it was a mazda engine till after i made this vid...i do now🤪
Hocam keşke alt yazı açık olsaydı. Çok ihtiyacım vardı bu videoya.. Selamlar.. 🇹🇷🇹🇷
Great video! About to time a 2.5 duratec myself and this helps quite a bit. For curiosity sake did you notice any sort of diamond washers behind the crank pulley or the cams on initial teardown that would need replacement?
no i did not come across anything like that
They are there, they are sooo thin that you will miss them. They need to be replaced and free from grease/oil before tightening.
You got me laughing Alan with your entrance 😄, anyway good informative video , I enjoy learning about engines , specially the duratech engines as I have a 125 duratech fiesta , but I like learning about the other ford engines , bye for now , by the way , I like seeing you basket the alternator , from Tony from bedfordshire 👍😊
lol, thanks tony
I wish the timing cover was that design on the Puma oil burner of the same era. The diesel one is a bit of pressed tin. Impossible to get off without distorting as it has a bigger contact surface area to the block by the aircon compressor. And a nightmare to try and get off in the car. I had the pawl fail in the tensioner on my 54 plate @ about 110k miles. I got it before it jumped the timing. At idle with lower oil pressure the chain slopped around! Did the guides etc at the same time. Something gone again inside it now at 220K but its got other issues with the fuel system now. Sounds like a guide gone.There was quite a bit of chain stretch on it. Apart from the early swirl flaps and coil packs, they were a great engine with few weak points so long as you maintained them. This was the era when ford had money invested in Mazda.
I'm doing valve stem seals on a '05 Volvo V50 1.8 Petrol B4184S11.
Do you know if the timing chain setup is identical?
Excellent! 👍
cheers st06 hey
Someone Give this lad his own TV show .
We Will Rock You. I've got that as an earworm now after the parts bin thuds make the first three beats. Buddy you're a boy make a big noise! This is what lock down does to you lol.
lol🤪
Blimy I thought it was groundhog day for a minute. Now that would be nice, yes.
Hi Alan, i was wondering if you would share your opinion on if it's worth changing the timing chain on the 2l in the fiesta st150 version (55 plate) as it's now done 150k miles, thankyou in advance.
How would you go about retracting the tensioner while it’s still in car with timing cover still on if possible?
Great video what you said at 6:10 I couldn’t have said it better myself. Just had to do a chain on an N47 Bmw engine 🤦🏽♂️
done a few bmw chains and not impressed plus the oil pick up pipe in the sump is so narrow it sucks up all the broken chain guide plastic and starves the engine of oil
Alan I followed your video to change timing chain and alls perfect , built engine back up and now when I run the engine it’s spitting oil from somewhere , any clue to where it’s losing the oil from, if the crank seal is not 100% flush and is inside the casing a tad would this cause the problem??
Thank you!
Is it the same special tool for ford focus 2009 2.0L engine
Love the vid
Good to know the timing chain is a strong part of these engines, mine has covered 129k miles and still on the original timing chain.😯⚠️😁
I doubt very much you could do this with the engine still in the car?
Only issue I've had with this engine is the silly EGR valve getting stuck open! 😯⚠️
Didn’t realise that these engines where so good.
Nice one.
I don’t suppose you have a video on the 2 litre DOHC SIERRA Engine?
Thank you.
unfortunately not...i wish i did..that would have been a good one
Why didn’t you use one of the tools to hold the harmonic balancer from spinning?
Will the two bolts plus the alignment tool hold everything?
Hello ALAN. You can show how to set the valve clearance on a 2.0 L DURATEC 145HP engine.in the mondeo MK4.Thank you in advance and best regards.
Hi Alan, is the ford spec'd 913c/d oil essential for engine longegity? Recently bought a second hand 2013 Focus TDCI here in Taiwan, which I believe has the same engine. The ford spec w913c oil isnt easily found here, and dealer serviced with Motul 8100 x clean 5w30 (not the ford spec).
Your videos are superb!
Hi Alan love you video's would this video be the same as a Ford potato mondeo mk3 2l tddi duratorq di thanks
How much would a chain replacement job cost at a garage?
Hi, I would like to ask if the crankshaft sensor has to be in alignment with the crankshaft pulley? (I have notice that the crankshaft sensor can be slided up and down I don't know if this has an affect on timing)
You found the problem !
Dont do these work when you have no service information (copy of the manual or DVD text or ... or ...)
You need tools, time, maybe a helping hand from a strong man.
You need a clean area and clean the motor better than you see it here in the video (=my opinion).
See 7:20 the pin at the side alligne the crankshaft.
The hole in the pulley and behind in the aluminium the hole is the alignment for the pulley.
The tooth at the pulley are used by the crankshaft sensor (left from the pulley).
Dont move these sensor (or mark the position at your own risk).
Dont safe money and buy a new pulley screw, sealing, gasket,
two drops of car silicon (=no corrosive for aluminium = no bathroom silicon)
and some part more plus cleaning material.
You will have a lot of problem if you loose these alignment oft the crankshaft sensor !
See the description at the service manual.
If you are at beginner level and not well skilled = This is not your work, even if it look simple !
A good nice video ! Based on the service manual.
A beginner cant lift the engine out of the engine compartment.
If the engine is in the compartment = IT wil be very difficult, less space, a lot of problems additional, but possible.
Lift the engine out and change the 2-mass-fly-whell, the clutch, the water pump, the thermostat.
Ok a lot of money but you can sleep well and use the car for miles and miles and miles until the rust ...
Attention the pulley screw is normally VERY tight ! Very tight !
And you need a long break bar. But you need to hold the pulley !
NEVER EVER NEVER EVER only a pin (or screw) throw the pully hole in the soft aluminium hole !!!!
Luky if you got a these tools we see in the video.
The man got a good air compressor for air gun tool and a BIG inner diameter air hose 10 mm inner diameter (not good 6mm).
Buy these. Compessor you can use for a lot of thinks (not to small a big tank with a lot of air volume).
The air hose is well when the inner diameter is 10mm and not the cheap thin inner diameter.
The air gun is with a normal no-name brand around 65 Euro = 55 GBP = USD 70 = 100 AUD from a china brand name.
A usefull tool for car mechanics.
By the way = A lot of money investition ? Ok you think a no-name garage is cheaper ? Well
In the video you see the 2nd pin (I use a screw).
Be aware the 2nd pin (or screw) can break easy the alumium when you use the torque wrench with 100 NM
(and then mhhh ??90 degree ??). EASY break the aluminium !
Read the service manual before you start working.
No manual ? No good idea.
Google and search words Mondeo MK3
You find possible internet forum with privat Mondeo owners.
If I need some helping information I read these text in the forum and-or ask.
Some privat persons are maybe ford technicans with own Mondeo MK3 ?
The intake manifold of that engine has 2 vaccum actuators. One is for the swirl flaps. What is the second one for?