just a little bit of random information. i installed a fusebox consumer unit today and i was surprised to see that you can actually fit the blanks after the busbar is installed. nothing worse then having to loosen it all off to fit a blank
"dear points of view , why oh why oh why did nick use a silly electric driver to tighten his screws ????" done it for ya putting the CPC between both bars is a good practice as relying on metal work isn't always going to work and for the quid it costs YOU know its all good
Curious...when you use a battery screwdriver for terminals....and then check the torque afterwards with a torque driver...wouldn't the torque driver click automatically, as it can't tighten them any more because the screws were over tight, because of the use of the battery driver in the first instance? Unless you reduced the battery driver to its lowest torque setting..if available, and that was less than the actual torque settings required by the manufacturer.
A lot of the electric screwdrivers have power settings. Mine does but I always use it upto feeling a slight resistance then it's over to the torque screwdriver.
Bundy you need to do a video on just the printer and all the options, how the app works and what it can do, I brought one the small version and there is absolutely no videos on TH-cam showing all the options. I still dont know everything it can do!
What's the no-no sometimes with cable ties to group some neutrals? I have a FuseBox board now, but you've done a much nicer job than my electrician. I was wincing as he bashed the faceplace with his fist to get it on, before I pointed out he hadn't actually got it over the corner so it wouldn't go on... I must take it off and see if I can tweak out the slight bend some time. 😟
I just realized but imagine this, Earth terminals at the top. Then immediately under, the live breakers, and under those, neutral terminals. One cable goes from top/bottom and has different length live/earth/neutral cables, so one "Column" is one cable. Zero cable crossing. Are there boards set up like that?
I’m pretty sure it was you who once showed heatshrink labels used? May have just been for the main earth, water etc, just wondered if you could have used them instead of ‘label flags’? Top job though!
Glad you put the link to the Ansell gloves up, after I spent ages going through old posts till I found a short with you wearing them, and managed to get the number off the back. 😍 Also noticed that yours did what mine have done, saved the back of your fingers. Noticed you've shredded the back of 2 fingers, I did the same yesterday and don't know how. I do know if I had caught my hand on something that sharp it would have hurt without the gloves. Have you tried the cut proof ones? Let us know if they are as easy to work in. Thanks
We're all just gonna ignore the fact that one of the first things ever printed with that label printer was the word "Willies" which was then stuck on the back? 😄 Adam I'm looking at you 👀
You mentioned that the intention is to add PV / battery storage, but what are your thoughts on RCBO direction? I've checked with Fusebox and they have confirmed that their RCBOs are not bi-directional. Will you be using something else for the PV / battery storage? (And possibly the EV ready for vehicle-2-grid) To be honest, I'm not fully sure what the internal difference between a directional and bi-directional RCBO is but manufacturers are now starting to state the difference so there must be something.
Not enough length left in those cables imo.. I hate it when I come to change a board and some plonker has dressed it really nice but means with my new board I need to extend half the cables... I was always taught every conductor should be able to go anywhere in the board plus 3 inches... This means having to hide a lot more cable length and you can't get it as "pretty" but means its way more maintainable..
So there's this thing in the wild called a smart bolt. It's a hollowed out bolt that has a special vial inside that goes "green" when the bolt is torqued (stretched) correct, and red when it's insufficiently torqued or over-torqued. They're used for large constructions to visually signify torque faults or imminent structural failure. What if we get those for the screw terminals? No, no, better yet, BRING BACK THE DOUBLE SCREW TERMINALS ):
Is it necessary to clip your cables nick in the trunking. I thought you only needed to fix like that if it's going to be hanging and in a fire exit area. Keeps them tidy though
your boards are ridiculously beautiful... 500 years from now they'll be art exhibits... I wonder if a customer of yours was dumb and got a cowboy to chuck your hard work and replace it with botch
@N Bundy Electrical I think I remember you mentioning the shedding phase come to think of it. I can imagine it being a little disheartening, but all we come good 👍
Anyone else think the fusebox lid screws are awful design as they're almost like selt tapping screws. Almost feel like the screws are gonna tear the holes wider.
![แฉกลโกงงานวัด 2024 [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.106 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/taC5dpP3HXA/mqdefault.jpg)
It's a good format, don't mind watching these every once in a while
Installed the exact same board week before last. 10 on top, 11 on bottom. Fusebox stuff is nice to work with 🤘🏻
Nice to see someone taking pride in their work
11:12 “just lift the bottom up. Give it a cheeky rub as it goes down” 😂
😂😂😂😂
Nice bloke and a good spark
Connecting the earth bars with cable is not only better practice but it gives you an electrical earth instead of a mechanical bond. Top job
Yes, I do that on these multi row boards too, i dont trust the steel for a good connection between the bars.
Absolutely best practice. A job worth doing is worth doing right.
What else could he have done???
@alvina69
Exactly what he said.
Some people don't link them and rely on the mechanical protection.
@@Jay369 My bad, I misread your message.
Beautifully done board! It's almost a shame the customers can't see all of that beautifully done work.
just a little bit of random information. i installed a fusebox consumer unit today and i was surprised to see that you can actually fit the blanks after the busbar is installed. nothing worse then having to loosen it all off to fit a blank
Best thing about Hager boards you can do it with the protective devices remove and add while the busbar is in situ 👌
That's a work of art, really good.
Well worth just over 12 mins of anyone's life watching this the tips are Gold Dust
Thanks dude
"dear points of view , why oh why oh why did nick use a silly electric driver to tighten his screws ????"
done it for ya
putting the CPC between both bars is a good practice as relying on metal work isn't always going to work and for the quid it costs YOU know its all good
Great job very neat board
I like the part where you opened the boxes 😊
Same 😂
Curious...when you use a battery screwdriver for terminals....and then check the torque afterwards with a torque driver...wouldn't the torque driver click automatically, as it can't tighten them any more because the screws were over tight, because of the use of the battery driver in the first instance? Unless you reduced the battery driver to its lowest torque setting..if available, and that was less than the actual torque settings required by the manufacturer.
A lot of the electric screwdrivers have power settings. Mine does but I always use it upto feeling a slight resistance then it's over to the torque screwdriver.
The board is perfection Nick!
Very neat job Nick.
Nice clean job Nick,mint! I like it.
Voice over Nick is a bit of a legend!
Nice! This the best labeller
Good stuff Nick
Tis a thing of beauty, Nick. A thing of beauty I say.
Nice board nick.
Well done Nick
Good job Nicholas
Really nice board Nick,master piece .
Bundy you need to do a video on just the printer and all the options, how the app works and what it can do, I brought one the small version and there is absolutely no videos on TH-cam showing all the options. I still dont know everything it can do!
Good job nick
Good install mate.
I always do CPC's first.
Great little hack with the sticker, it usually ends up wrapped around my hand!
What's the no-no sometimes with cable ties to group some neutrals? I have a FuseBox board now, but you've done a much nicer job than my electrician. I was wincing as he bashed the faceplace with his fist to get it on, before I pointed out he hadn't actually got it over the corner so it wouldn't go on... I must take it off and see if I can tweak out the slight bend some time. 😟
Keep up the good work, you will make a good spark one day 😋
thanks for this oldschool style video, I was hoping you would do a video on this consumer unit.
Enjoyed the voiceover!
Any reason why you used the larger RCBOs instead of the mini RCBOs? Those large ones are single pole switching, the mini ones are double pole.
Price probably; the boards are big enough I find without the mini RCBOs
Great video as always mate do you know anywhere I can get a velocity stealth 500 backpack as they seem to be sold out all over
Not sure mate I’ll ask 👍
@@NBundyElectrical thanks. Mate
Nice neat job Nick 👍
I fit these boards & like to use the mini Rcbo’s
Does anyone know somewhere to look for elecyrical work when your still training? I cant find anything
I always struggle to find a good way to make the rcbo neutral leads look neat.
It is very triggering for a man with ocd
I just realized but imagine this, Earth terminals at the top. Then immediately under, the live breakers, and under those, neutral terminals. One cable goes from top/bottom and has different length live/earth/neutral cables, so one "Column" is one cable. Zero cable crossing. Are there boards set up like that?
I’m pretty sure it was you who once showed heatshrink labels used? May have just been for the main earth, water etc, just wondered if you could have used them instead of ‘label flags’? Top job though!
Yes mate just need to buy some more heat shrink 👍
I aways fit a bigger board than is needed for the installation but you have left 19 spare ways. Is that not OTT?
Great video! But your causing my OCD to go wild one standard tail and one coloured flexi tail! It’s got to match 😂
Glad you put the link to the Ansell gloves up, after I spent ages going through old posts till I found a short with you wearing them, and managed to get the number off the back. 😍
Also noticed that yours did what mine have done, saved the back of your fingers. Noticed you've shredded the back of 2 fingers, I did the same yesterday and don't know how. I do know if I had caught my hand on something that sharp it would have hurt without the gloves.
Have you tried the cut proof ones? Let us know if they are as easy to work in. Thanks
Great content Nick, really enjoy watching & Learning, as a apprentice sparky, Thanks Jensen ⚡️👊
Did you have to change the size of fuse in the servoce head or anything like that for a board that big.
Nick wouldn't be allowed di that. That would have to be done by the DNO.
No mate , it’s getting upgraded to a 100amp from dno when they have car chargers
Yeah I knew it was the DNO, I just meant in general did it have to be upgraded. Thanks both for the comment though.
We're all just gonna ignore the fact that one of the first things ever printed with that label printer was the word "Willies" which was then stuck on the back? 😄
Adam I'm looking at you 👀
You mentioned that the intention is to add PV / battery storage, but what are your thoughts on RCBO direction? I've checked with Fusebox and they have confirmed that their RCBOs are not bi-directional. Will you be using something else for the PV / battery storage? (And possibly the EV ready for vehicle-2-grid)
To be honest, I'm not fully sure what the internal difference between a directional and bi-directional RCBO is but manufacturers are now starting to state the difference so there must be something.
Not enough length left in those cables imo.. I hate it when I come to change a board and some plonker has dressed it really nice but means with my new board I need to extend half the cables... I was always taught every conductor should be able to go anywhere in the board plus 3 inches... This means having to hide a lot more cable length and you can't get it as "pretty" but means its way more maintainable..
Snip* Delicious :D
Fantastic vid Nick much appreciated 😎
Liked the video, if only for voiceover Nick!
Regarding torque, surely 10 duggas on the impact driver works too? 🤣
So there's this thing in the wild called a smart bolt. It's a hollowed out bolt that has a special vial inside that goes "green" when the bolt is torqued (stretched) correct, and red when it's insufficiently torqued or over-torqued. They're used for large constructions to visually signify torque faults or imminent structural failure. What if we get those for the screw terminals? No, no, better yet, BRING BACK THE DOUBLE SCREW TERMINALS ):
How come you’re not using mini RCBOs Nick? They’re so much nicer to use. Loads more space!
To be honest mate don’t need the space
Pity you didn't use sp+n rcbo's
I can't comment on the tails running through the fabric.
Is it necessary to clip your cables nick in the trunking. I thought you only needed to fix like that if it's going to be hanging and in a fire exit area.
Keeps them tidy though
I personally wouldn’t bother.
No really here, but I wanted to seepage the circuits in the trunking for neatness that’s all
your boards are ridiculously beautiful... 500 years from now they'll be art exhibits... I wonder if a customer of yours was dumb and got a cowboy to chuck your hard work and replace it with botch
Off topic Nicholas, but how's the beard coming on and are you happy with the progress?
Most of it has fell out mate but that’s the norm, will start growing back in the next month 👍
@N Bundy Electrical I think I remember you mentioning the shedding phase come to think of it. I can imagine it being a little disheartening, but all we come good 👍
👍👍👍👍👍
Anyone else think the fusebox lid screws are awful design as they're almost like selt tapping screws.
Almost feel like the screws are gonna tear the holes wider.
🙂
Noice