How to Extend Short Wires | Easy Fix Anyone Can Do
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ก.ย. 2022
- In this electrical DIY guide i will be showing you how to extend short cable. I will take you through step by step, showing you how to splice cables the easy way. If you like the video then leave a like and please subscribe for more content like this as I've got a lot more to come and there will be something that will help you out.
Buy items seen in this video here;
Push Fit Splice Connectors(spliceline) - amzn.to/3QsTyRq
Alternative to spliceline (wago 221) - amzn.to/3epKs8I
Crips - amzn.to/3R5lhGV
Crimping Tool - amzn.to/3QaozYi
Stanley Fatmax Wire Strippers - amzn.to/3RcH4wq
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If you are not confident undertaking electrical work then you should have this work undertaken by a qualified electrician.
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Everyone who makes instructional videos should copy the The DIY Guy. Simple, concise and perfect, unlike some who waffle on and on ad nauseam before actually getting to the point. Thank you, DIY Guy.
Appreciate this 😊
Two additions, that may increase savety, when working on electric installations.
1) Always start with the earth wire. If you do that, earth will always be connected first and provide that scant more of sefety, if something goes wrong.
2) Always make the earth wire a bit longer than the other two. So if something gets pulled out, or pulled apart, it loses connection last.
Actually you’d rather the Neutral is pulled out last, especially considering how many devices and appliances we have today with no ground pin
Savety/sefety first. Couldn't acree more.
@@srpacific With AC, neutral is just another live.
This is exactly what I do when working on anything that requires mains voltage it's also good to remember when your soldering onto tabs for a battery or the battery onto a circuit board that you do negative first positive second and always cover the end of the positive when it's not soldered to anything no-one will thank you for a direct short on a lithium battery
@@hippopotamus86 it is not.
I no longer do any DIY stuff because I'm old and not good at it. I just enjoy watching this guy and trying to figure out what he's saying. 😊
Figure out what he's saying? He's speaking English Ken, what country are you from? By the way, your written English is very good for a foreigner.
Cool! I love watching all kinds of stuff too.
Click the subtitle button!
If he is speaking too quickly, you can run the video at a lower speed. Click the 'gearwheel' button.
Lots of this sort on TH-cam, the difference is the clarity of the explanations, thank you.
Great video as always, explained with the usual clarity that anybody could follow. Many years ago when I did DIY, the bare wires activated the ELCB if they touched each other.
Guys if extending a socket with only one cable supplying it ALWAYS DOUBLE OVER THE END GOING IN TO THE BACK OF THE SOCKET. It's reduces the chance of the copper breaking off when tightening. The rest of the video is Spot on 👌👊👊
I vowed not to use Wago. Until I used some!!! Changed my life
👍
Brilliant video. A previous owner has placed 2 double sockets on top of the skirting board and they look daft! I’ve been searching for a video that shows how to extend the cables so that I can move the sockets up the wall. Thank you so much! 👍👍
When showing the use of either crimp- or in-line pushfit connectors, it would be helpful also to show their removal, in the case that there is faulty connection, and you need to remove the connector without shortening the already short conductors. I know how, but it is not necessarily intuitive that the push fit connectors can be twisted off, and the crimped connectors may be loosened with pliers to open up the crimped section.
Tips like these are SO useful for us DIYers. Especially those getting on a bit who may have picked up some 'tricks' over the years but now find that such 'tricks' are so out of date. Thanks for posting!
Or you know... use wago's like a normal person :)
Please, "tricks" are for kids, save your money for something more worthwhile, just solder electrical wires together & use heat shrink tubing!
@@deependz3231 I'd imagine you've started some fires using that method.
he's a bit sick isnt he
covid 19
JUST USE WAGO!
I'm an electrical engineer, and I'm still glad I took 2 residential wiring courses at the local VoTech. I've run a lot of circuits in my house and it was money well spent. Excellent Video.
👍
or you're a shill for VoTech given the random unusual comment to place below such a video unless you had vested interests to do so.
@genome616 lol VoTech is just short for vocational technical school of any kind 😂. don't think he has a vested interest in any and all of them
@@genome616 🙄😂
@genome616 There's always one know-nothing conspiracy theorist for us to laugh at. 😂
Great video, well explained ( no waffle!) crystal clear techniques. Thanks for posting,
Thanks man! That looks so much easier than the wire caps I've used in the past which don't work so well with short wires anyway.
Please, save your money for something more worthwhile, just solder electrical wires together & use heat shrink tubing!
@@deependz3231 No. Solder can fail on fault condition as the wires can heat up and melt the solder. It is bad practice to resort only to solder for joining wires for high load (ie house mains) as can fail due to heat cycling.
It is OK to solder multi-strand wire - then clamp - to protect the strands being cut by the clamp, but we still physically clamp the wires and they will not release in fault condition.
@@tomooo2637 Exactly! I've had too many solder joints fail.
@deependz3231 Never cut corners to save money. That's a recipe for disaster.
If you've watched Towering Inferno you'll know what I mean.
Thank you DIY Guy. Had this problem last week for a relative and was unsure the best way to tackle this. I also used your Amazon links and saved a load of money. Thumbs up from me.
Amazing!! This will save a lot of money and Time chasing and pulling new cables through, thanks for posting.
Got a box of these wago things …..
I put 3 lights and a switch in basement’few
Days ago ..
They worked really well ….. nice and clean …
You could always use Wago single splice connectors. They're awesome. Good video mate!
Yeah, I much much prefer the wago myself. I've always hated crimps with an absolute pasion, they're only 1 better than those woeful wire nuts.
Wago 221-412 is ok as well..
I've always been a little afraid of electrics , largely because I found the tec jargon confusing so i shyed away and never learnt, but you make your video so clear and understandable I feel confident too have a go . Don't worry though, a friend of mine is an electrician so he can check 😂
Always learning something new from this channel. Keep up the good work.
Never heard of inline splicers but after seeing this has opened another world of connections in all wiring conditions.. Outstandingly simply explained, the process' of both shown clearly and in it's basic form without any fanfare and brilliant to watch. Just clicked subscribed and that is a rareity for me.. Well done lad..
Me Too👍
Same here. Excellent teaching skills.
@@abcxyz2927 not so. They are maintenance free connectors so can be inaccessible as long as contained in a junction box.
Please, a solution looking for a problem, save your money for something more worthwhile, just solder electrical wires together & use heat shrink tubing!
I never thought of using these inline splices. My first thought would have been to use wire nuts but this looks much better.
Blimey I've been crimping for years (and messed up a few due to not ensuring the wire was inserted fully before squeezing the handles on the crimp tool). This in-line splice idea is brilliant.
Greetings from Montréal, Québec, Canada !!! I am a big ZERO for electricity soooo...Thank you for teaching me and understanding that area !!! Cheers !!!
Love that tool, never seen that before. I’m still using old school wire strippers. Gonna look them up so I can get one.
Absolutely love this guy’s videos, he explains everything in easy simple terms 👌many thanks again
With disgusting tattoo on the arms, why is this normal? Oh, God.
Please, save your money for something more worthwhile, just solder electrical wires together & use heat shrink tubing!
Just remember the sleeved bare cable is the earth and not the neutral as spoken. A slip of the tongue but a serious one.
@@seanleith5312 100% agree with you
@@deependz3231 You're average DIYer who's competent to do a job like this isn't going to mess around with soldering. This method is perfect.
Short and sweet, clear and concise instructions, not like most videos that just go on and on. Ta
Thank you again! Just ordered some of the splicing connectors! 👍👍👍
Hi there
As a retired Electro-Mechanical Engineer (75) I would have thought that terminating the three wires in the socket while sitting at a table/sat on the floor/ etc and then when that's done taking your socket down to the position where it is going and push the three wires using a splice (or SIX if working on a ring) into the socket, saves all that messing about.
It's all about time which contributes to your bottom line. BUT always remember safety first.
As of 15th January 2024, I have just watched this again, but this has been nagging me.
Please correct me if I am wrong but I am almost positive that you need an IEE certification ( 16th / 17th Edition etc. ) to install a NEW socket, this does not apply when changing like for like, I have been out of the industry now for several years, so things might have changed, but this is a safety aspect so I can't imagine this would not change.
My vote for the second method, but I've done the first method many many times, especially working on car electrical systems. Great vid!
Please, a solution looking for a problem, save your money for something more worthwhile, just solder electrical wires together & use heat shrink tubing!
Thank you very much, this helped me sort out a problem I had with an earth that had been trimmed right back when a double insulated light had been fitted
👍👍Great and simple to understand how to relocate a socket. Thank you. ❤
Brilliant. Great video, never knew those existed, will save a lot of time and effort! Thank you.
Please, save your money for something more worthwhile, just solder electrical wires together & use heat shrink tubing!
A common problem which I sorted out in the past the old joins or insulating tape 😱
This is brilliant and much safer 👍
Please, save your money for something more worthwhile, just solder electrical wires together & use heat shrink tubing!
@@deependz3231 electricians generally don't solder cables together in a situation like this.the only time we ever really solder is when connecting to led tape,or similar. Sometimes we solder the ends of flex to make it easier to connect to a terminal too,but we never solder cables together in a situation like this. Through crimps are the general go to,and the inline push connectors he mentioned in the video are becoming more popular. You're right about using heat shrink,but the soldering isn't common for electricians. More so in the electronics world,and BMS type work
Wow I am amazed how simple it is in your country. Especially the part where the entire switch board is connected once and not individually to all switches and sockets
Top man, will follow your excellent tutorials.
Thanks for the video. This reminds me when my Dad was project managing the build of our new house many years ago - He was always tidying up every evening when trades would leave the site - He cut the tails of the cables unaware the electrician had them labelled. When the electrician did turn up hung over from drink he walked straight of the job and never came back - I thought it was hilarious but my Dad was furious.
I bet he was!😂
More like micro managing with just enough knowledge to be dangerous.😅🤣😂
You’ll love my story above!
Great video. Wish I had known about these in line splicers before I wired loads of new lights into our motorhome 🤦🏻
You have solid cabling in your motorhome ?
The movement and the multitude of varying resonant vibrations experienced by a vehicle and its components don't lend well to push type fittings,which rely solely on a sprung type clamp to grip the conductor and are therefore vulnerable to these vibrations,jolts,movement etc.. Remember that many 12 and 24 volt systems operate at higher amps than their mains voltage equivalents any resistance will result in a lot of heat quickly,and they don't grip multi-strand cable properly and even with single core cable which its self sn't ideal in a vehicle, the join will still experience the same movement,you will be forever chasing faults or worse still fighting a fire. Vehicles need proper solid mechanical connections, crimps or bolted terminals (no soldering) and decent cable support.
Not a great idea, use the proper crimps, these pushfits are never meant for mobility.
Nice tips!! I always try to extend short wire at my home but just don't know what to do!! Thanks for the info🤗
You have just got me out of a big hole can’t thank you enough😀
Excellent ! Informative, well filmed with good sound.
Wago now make in-line versions of the 221. As an alternative.
Amazing ! Very much appreciated 👍
You cannot find them in the USA for a reasonable price.
That's a useful tip. 👍
Where can I find Wago in-line version.
But any good electrical factor will stock them
Those push connectors are awesome , never seen them before . I would of used those crimping connectors . Great video , short to the point and no waffling . Thanks
Love the inline connectors. Next time I have an issue, I'll look for some. I used wago to retrofit 3 florescent fixtures with LED.
Please, a solution looking for a problem, save your money for something more worthwhile, just solder electrical wires together & use heat shrink tubing!
@@deependz3231 soldering is not recomended because if an overload occurs the solder can melt and then all the sorts of problems can happen in your mains due to a bad connection, including continuous overheating which leads to shortcircuits and a big fire in your house. Shrinking tubes also are not good for this job because it doesnt provide a proper level of insulation in mains wires due potential high current. Inline connectors, Wago and even proper joins and good insulation tape are way better and safer solutions. Soldering mains wires is even prohibited in some countries.
I wish I'd seen this video ten years ago, would have saved a lot of hassle. Fantastic presentation btw
Brilliant. Great for putting sockets up to height they’re supposed to be in my older house. Wondered how to safely extend wires to do this.
Please, save your money for something more worthwhile, just solder electrical wires together & use heat shrink tubing!
@@deependz3231 What about using sellotape?
@@deependz3231 I disagree if your not a competent solderer dry joints are the last thing you want . Pushfits for me every time
@@deependz3231 wagos are better than soldering tbh
As I understand it (I’m not an electrician) the height regs don’t apply for existing older buildings - only for new build?
This vid saved me quite a bit of trouble. The extenders work great.
I use WAGO connectors. You can easily remove them if you need to , but they do lock on tight with the lever. They sell multiple different types. Really good...WAGO is UL approved and legal.
First time I’ve seen any of your videos. BRILLIANT! As a serial DIYer I’m always looking for tips and tricks to make life easier. I’ll be looking to purchase some of your recommended equipment and have subscribed to your channel. Thank you 👍🏻
Please, save your money for something more worthwhile, just solder electrical wires together & use heat shrink tubing!
@@deependz3231 Why do you care? You've posted this message on multi posts. Why? I would never solder solid core wire because 1) it's brittle, and 2) I'm crap at soldering. You do you, but stop repeating yourself with the same bad advice.
I know that code differs between countries but where I'm from conduit is required when running cables in walls. That has the side effect that it is a bit easier to replace too short wiring or adding. So even if it is not required, if it is allowed I highly recommend adding proper conduit when adding electrical to new walls.
Would your customers enjoy paying for this unnecessary extra expense?
@@stargazer7644 as I wrote, they do not have a choice as it is required by code here.
Why do you highly recommend it?
Great tutorial. Thank you for your time and effort to make this video and share it with us. Greetings from Croatia.
Been out of the game 12 years now and Live in Thailand I will order some of these for a few jobs in the future. Well done.
I have two double sockets to fit for my daughter, bringing the cabling from the other side of the partition wall. I was going to use Wago 221-2411 connectors, or similar but 3-way inline connectors, in the wall cavity but I think I will be calling at Toolstation for a handful of these (as Toolstation is only a mile away and on my way to daughter's house).
Explained clearly for the complete novice. Great video.
Sure why not
Love this mate, great video! I've had to do similar things in the past when I've moved sockets in our home. Cheers
Just watched a few of your vids from this. Great to see more UK diy channels. Subbed!, 👍🏽Keep up the great content.
His explanation is brilliant
Great video, thankyou. Could you also use wago connectors if you had enough room in back box. Look forward to your other videos.
Yep you could use wagos also
Wago 221 connectors are perfect for this, and they now do straight connectors.
Repeat after me!
WAGO!!!
All these guys killed it, I ain't heard that version of cam in a minute, it amazes me though how much Mas$ and fan sound identical, I could hear fab rapping that entire verde
I have to add this after reading one of the comments below.
I played a practical joke on an electrician once. I’m a carpenter and was fitting a fancy electric cupboard in a posh flat in London. The electrician had left about six feet extra on all the cables coming into the cupboard of which there were about 50 or more because it was for a complex system of lighting, audio, video, power sockets, etc with points for everything in every room, you name it this place had it and all the cables were carefully labelled.
I had now reached the stage where I had to fit doors on this cupboard but try as I might I could coil up this mass of wires and stuff them into the cupboard far enough to be able to fit the doors. So there was nothing for it but to figure out how much I needed to reduce the bundle while still leaving reasonable lengths on the wires and cut them back. I figured about 3 feet would do it. So I sat down and painstakingly relabelled each wire four feet further up carefully copying precisely all his letters and hieroglyphs, then I cut them all off at three feet but I kept the bundle of ends with the original labels.
Next day I was first on the job as usual and waited for the electrician to turn up then I approached him as he entered saying “ Oh Steve, sorry mate I had to fit doors on that electric cupboard but couldn’t get the wires in so I had to cut them back a bit, but don’t worry I saved all the ends with your labels on”!
Well his face was a picture, he dropped his bag and just stood in the hallway open mouthed, looking from me to the wires then to the now fitted and closed doors on the cupboard then back to the wires and his labels then me again and finally managed to splutter out “ you twat!” ( actually he used a worse word than that but I can’t write it here) I managed to keep a straight face and said, “ there’s no need for that it took me ages to cut through this lot” then spitting and snarling he rushed over to the cupboard and tanked the doors open and looked inside… and then after a pause collapsed on the floor in a quivering heap letting out a noise that was somewhere between agonising pain and ecstasy jibbering the words “Thank Christ you cruel bastard I nearly had a heart attack!” It was priceless! Best joke I ever played on a tradesman!
😝
Perfectly explained
Perfectly filmed
Perfectly understood
Thanks
Great informative video. Had a few issues like this over the years……I now have the answer 👏🏻
Brilliant buying the crimping tool is the best DIY purchase I’ve ever made thanks for your clear and precise instructions
Glad to help
Thanks DIY man . I find your videos absolutely informative that every thing you say and do is so easy to follow. I’ve managed to do a few jobs that needed to be done at the age of 74 . Thanks to you . Keep up the good work . 👍🏴
Great to hear!
I am amazed by the wire stripping tool you are using. Looks great!
Yes... I want one of them...
They've been around for ages, I don't particularly like them as they can "nick" the cores weakening them.
Normally I'd use my teeth but with the cable so short I could not get my face close enough.
@@wayland7150 you could use your teeth, but if you do it too much, one day you'll lose a tooth or chip it. it's a matter of time. not recommended to use your teeth to strip wire unless it's an absolute emergency
They're excellent. The one he has is Stanley but there are Chinese knock offs as well now.
Some much quicker than old strippers and weirdly satisfying as well!
I really miss using the UK style outlets; very smart design with plenty of safety features when compared to North American or European outlets. Excellent video.
Ok the child safety is a better construction but imo the switch and fuse are redundant compared to the euro outlets. The plug on the other hand, just step barefoot on a uk plug and feel the difference with euro plugs 😃
Except of the fuse in the plug schuko outlets have same security features.
Those connectors are a smart bit of technology. CHEERS from AUSTRALIA.
Thanks for this info was looking for an easier way to do this, happy days 👍🏻
Everyone will try the crimp method, but will be using those cheap £5 crimp tools designed for low votlage stuff. The more expensive "ratchet" type crimp tools like you are using are so much better!
Wago 221..nuff said..
I'm thinking you may struggle to fit one in the back of a UK patress box especially with the multiple wires required on a UK ring circuit.
Just watched this for best method...thanks mate.👍👍
Never knew about these! Brilliant!
I solder them and cover joints with heat shrinks tubes
are you sure heatshrink MEETS USA wiring codes?
Why?
Total nonsense. That might be nice and all as a hobby but a lot of people have to work for a living and do not have time for that extra and essentially useless effort.
You are here to learn, and at the very least you need to acknowledge the video.
Idiot!
No need for soldering since the wires are not going to be holding any weight that might cause the wires to pull apart
Muito bom!
Este segundo conector não encontrei no Brasil ainda.
Até o alicate temos aqui .
Valeu 👍
No Brasil, existe o conector Wago inline, que é semelhante, com exceção da alavanca.
Another headache of a job made easy. Top video.
Wago! Wago! Quick, simple and secure. Anything beats twisting and tape.😂
Wagos are as good as the spliceline for sure
I'm nervous about crimping a wire that might get pushed and shoved near the crimp, e.g. in order to connect to a socket or switch (especially when pushing the switch or socket back into the box) as I fear that the pushing and shoving may stress the crimp and damage the integrity of the connection.
I'm not worried about a crimp on a long run or where the cable is secured on either side of the crimp.
Am I over cautious?
It’s not a problem for static wiring by which I mean, as in the video, for fixed electrics in a house etc as it is only pushed once back into the wall and probably never touched or pulled about again.
But crimps or in-line splicers are not suitable for portable situations like extending a flex on a lamp or an extension lead etc as the wires will flex and bend too much locally at the crimps and then the copper will work harden and break exposing live ends.
In those situations the safest recourse really is to replace the whole lead or flex with the longer length you require. FYI, crimps are more likely to pull out if yanked than the in-line splicers which have a kind of one way barbed system.
Hope that answers your question.
Regards
Guy
They should make the backs of sockets a standard . Hate replacing sockets to find the cable are on opposite sides and there’s not enough length left on the cable
I had that recently , wire a new socket on?- ---- 15 minutes leisurely.
Two half days trying to do it, wires too short, get the wire in, tilt to do the screw , wire pops out, factor in a fixed cabinet above your head ,you bang your head on , a LOT!!
Gave up. Called a Sparky, ------- frustrated and humiliated..........
Wires are too short, they need to be long enough that they can always wrap around either side of the socket
Really clear videos, you deserve the viewings and subs. I would just say to diyers, practice first, it is easy to leave the wire loose. Make sure to strip the copper to the required length
Great vid. Love those in line guys. Looks a lot better than a crimper considering how little space you have in those wall boxes.
Would using wago connectors work too?
Yes, works also perfectly
@@Dutch-Maker Thanks. Didn't get any notification for this, which is weird.
The second type of fitting reminds me of the "backstab" connections they still put on outlets in N. America. They work the same way, but are known for overheating. Maybe the ones in this video (which I've seen at Home Depot) are better made, maybe with higher quality contacts and/or anti-oxidation paste. The insulated crimps are probably fine with a proper (and expensive) crimping tool, but I've had terrible luck trying to crimp them with vise grips, though, for some reason, vise grips work fine with un-insulated copper crimps & heat shrink tubing (which may or may not be legal). They even have a special type of crimp, and crimper, over here that's supposed to cold-weld copper pigtails to the aluminum wiring they used for a while in the 1960s; it's supposed to be one of the only reliable ways to connect aluminum to normal switches and outlets.
Loving the pliers. Been using wagons for everything including my cars
An alternative way (to your last method) may be the WAGO connectors - also available in 2-pin variant. Also tiny and also give a great (reliable) connection.
Thubs up for the wagos. Last install was inside a few split boxes in a 70 year old house in eastern Europe, wired up up with some ancient cables. Nice, neat and reliable setup.
The Wago connectors are made after EU-guidelines you can´t use these in the UK anymore.
@@Pum1ce ...
Yes you can.
@@Pum1ce UK has adopted EU guidelines. Nothing has changed.
I did expect a wago show off.
I've had several of those splice connectors fail on me because of bad manufacture in the molding. Now i prefer in-line Wago type connectors because of their positive lever action
I always would use a crimp if space permitted. Its a fool proof solid connection.
Nice info… I’ve seen those inline push fits at Toolstation & Screwfix! 👍
I am an electrician, I swear, I learnt a lot from you
On the very day I was looking to how to extend wiring i was lucky enough to find your channel and was very impressed by your presentation. But my problem is, short wiring from
the loft into a ceiling rose, that has to be changed because water got into after having a leaking roof! I guess with the amount of wiring involved, I won't use this method but would
be using a junction box instead, installed & left in the loft space. Then bring a single cable down to fit into the new rose? Any thought's on the matter would be greatly appreciated.
Have a look for Wago junction box using Wago connectors simple way of joining wire and much better connections than the old round junction boxes
Hager J501 Downlighter Junction Box
@@stevesawyer7330 Thank you, I will check them out. Still wondering if it's OK to just drop a single cable down to the ceiling rose or best to extend all the cables?
use a WAGO, done :D 30 seconds video instead of the 7 minutes one xD
This is very helpful info, thank you.
That’s what I prefer, short explanations all necessary info included without ballast.
You should use wago connectors instead! Faster and easier!
Not really any faster and they're larger and considerably more expensive.
Eh? They're effectively the same thing.
5:18 you've called the earth the neutral
But other than that it's a good idea for those little push for things because wagos might not fit into such a short cable 👍
Slip of the tongue... We all know what he meant...
No we don’t, in Canada neutral is white hot is black and ground/earth is not insulated.
@@danlux4954 well if all the colours are different it doesn't matter to you anyway, unless you were visiting the UK on holiday and decided to do some electrical work while you were here, basing your knowledge on this 3 second misspeak 😂
Always interesting and very clear instructions, just love seeing the new ideas and how easy they are to use. Thanks
Brilliant, I didn't know about those push wire connectors.
If you need more access to the cable, remove the dry lining box (not always possible in every instance though.)
But fo NOT make a connection behind the box, leave it where it can at least be inspected.
@@rogerblack7883 not just to be inspected it is a requirement that the single insulated cores are not inside the wall
@@rogerblack7883 These are defined as "maintenance free connectors" in the UK (unlike screw connectors) and are permitted to be located where they cannot be inspected. However the single insulated wires should not be outside/behind the box as the protection is not sufficient.
I’d actually use Wagos over crimps in this case. At least you can see your connection.
Some people also don't realize that Wago also makes an inline version of their 221 connectors, which can be used exactly the same way as these crimps/push connectors, too..
I keep reading about Wagos but haven't found where to find them
In this tight space wagos could be too bulky and the connectors need cover-tape
@@peterkou2682 what? There's plenty of space in that box. The only thing going in there is an electrical socket. Wagos are also plenty tight without tape and if you actually do manage to yank one apart while pulling the outlet panel back out you'd see it immediately.
You don't need the tape for insulation, either - you shouldn't be stripping so much wire that there's still exposed copper after locking down the lever.
Wago is superior, i allways use them, cant find a reason to use anything else
Nice job. Didn't even know about these new connectors, but I have been off the tools for a while. Progress.
Man, you're rocks! Thank You for your course !!! I've learned so much!!!
Glad you like it
Nice and well explained tips ! What are your (and others) thoughts to these "solder heat connectors" that I have seen doing the rounds? (You insert wires in each and and use a heat gun like on a heat shrink sleeve - but there is low heat solder in the middle to connect wires. Looks good, but always wary of these things as a "gimmick".
absolutley!!! lets add a potential resistor into the wiring and burn the house down
Wouldn't trust them at high amperages, don't buty from.face book or Amazon, buy from.yourvlocsl wholesalers, they will be meant for local use.
They're known as solder sleeves and the proper high-quality ones are qualified for use on aircraft, so you can't get much better than that!
What about soldering the original wire and extending wire together? If I have used this technique, I've usually added 2 layers of heatshrink over the soldered section and adjacent insulation. I appreciate that if you are trying to complete a job quickly - then soldering might not be the quickest but I feel it makes for a quality connection.
Solder can melt and then the connection is gone, or worse shorting on something else. One of these connectors or splices will continue to hold the connection even if the plastic is melted away.
@@JanPeterDeVries if the joint is getting that hot something has already gone wrong. I find solder way more reliable than crimp connectors especially on solid conductors. Still evaluating Wagos.
Not enough room or wire. Need a longer strip length to twist and solder.
I always would solder
If the joint has good electrical and mechanical contact before it is soldered, it should be capable of carrying the current. I have seen plenty of soldered joints carrying high current in the tens of Amps. However, I would tend towards using the dedicated appropriate spec. "idiot proof" splicers or crimps as they are designed for the job.