Restoration Pilot - PS2 Dualshock 2 "H model" Controller Repair
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 31 ธ.ค. 2021
- Dualshock 2 "H model" SCPH-10010: faulty ribbon removal and replacement.
Parts used:
Button contact ribbon/cable part SA1Q43-A:
www.aliexpress.com/item/10050...
18-pin flex cable connect port:
www.aliexpress.com/item/10050...
#dualshock2
#ps2
Every single one of H series I came across does not work -_- if they were plain black I'd just dump them to garbage but all the pearl white are H series...
Good stuff man. I just decided a couple weeks ago that this would be my new venture. Ordered everything I need to get started a couple days ago. Been watching videos from great people like you so I can dive in once everything shows up. Keep it up!
Thank you for the kind words! And since I'm so late on replying - how has your progress been going? Any projects?
@@roastymike5438 hey there!! No worries at all 😂 I’ve had quite a few restorations and some fun custom projects! I don’t have any longer form videos on TH-cam yet, but if you go to the links in my channel you can see pics of some. Just did a Game Bot Light last week!
@@totallyretrotech Why is JDM tech always so much better than what the rest of the world gets? SAD. I'm a Casio fan and their JDM stuff is always awesome.
@@roastymike5438 100% agree with this statement
❤good work 👏
Nice job thank you
I am thrilled it helped!
I took a big risk trying this on my broken H model, knowing there was a high chance of breaking the board... and sure enough I tore up 7 traces haha. Second time ever soldering so definitely a learning experience...
I've done this several times since this video with both iron and hot air and....while I haven't torn any traces yet, hot air is absolutely the way to go. I just wanted to show that it's possible with an iron. Sorry for your loss. :(
What's more fun is all the ribbon cables I've seen on every video looks different lol
There's no reason that I can see that they couldn't use a PCB. The pads and the button rubber are both carbon-impregnated. The rubbers are conical so when you push harder, the cone flattens out and increases conductivity which is translated as pressure.
Just watch some of the cheaper ones - if there's a break in any of the pressure sensitive pads, it's an on/off switch and won't work right.
Typical corporate cost cutting, I'd imagine. Cheaper to have a flex as opposed to a PCB? Ultimately I think it's the breakdown of the carbon that kills the functionality and I 'm not sure PCB vs. Flex would have prevented that.
what flex part number should i buy to this same case? (the flex is solder to the rigid PCB)
capo capo
When I connect the ps2 controller to my PC adapter to test it, the computer doesn't recognize the pad. Do you know what could be the problem? It's not the adapter because the PC recognizes it by itself as a generic USB controller. But when the dualshock is attached, it disappears from the device manager. I know the pad works and is receiving power because if I push the "analogue" button, the red LED lights on.
Liked the video man. Could you provide links to the parts you used?
Thanks! You're right - I absolutely should have added a parts list to this. The contact ribbon/cable is part SA1Q43-A and the connector is an 18-pin flex cable connect port. There's tons of resellers on AliExpress and it's complete chaos to actually find anything so these are the specific parts I ordered from the specific seller:
www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001325883504.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_allProduct.8148356.3.7b584b27aGVpcD
www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001333840268.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_allProduct.8148356.5.41843cdbM3CE5E
@@roastymike5438 I have a trashed dualshock clone that has a similar connector, would it be possible to re use that connector from there?
Are you referring to the connector for the new button membrane? If so, maybe a small chance you could reuse it if it's a push-in. The button ribbon/membrane from the old controller (if there even is one) absolutely won't work though.
@@roastymike5438 Thanks, I happen to have a couple of flex that I bought mistakenly for a type A controller, all these years later they will be useful. Aside from that I ripped half of the pads removing the old connector... luckily it doesn't seem impossible to wire the pins from the connector directly to the controller chip, but It won't be easy lol.
@@GenesHand It can't get worse, right?! And this is how we learn. Thankfully PS2 controllers are not some rare item. At worst, you're out a few bucks. :D
Why can we pull of the membran and put the new one in ? (as you insert the new one in to new connect port) ? i tried to pull of one and it is very strong. is it also soldered to connect port ?
The original membrane is permanently crimped into the original connector which is why we must replace both membrane and connector with new types.
good video thanks! Just wondering why my model H controller has a 19pin connector, and i can only find 18 pin flex pcb's
you only need 18pin the first pin on the left is not necessary
Hello. I have a sttrange problem. I have an H-type controller and i need to replace the flex ribbon.
But instead of a soldered on connector, it has a 19-pin connector on the circuit board with 2 small tabs on the sides that needs to be pushed upwards in order to remove the flex ribbon.
Normally there's a number on the flex ribbon (SA1Q43-A and such), but mine seems like a hybrid between the SA1Q43-A and a R45-0380. On the corner there's written 0285A J.
I understand the SA1Q43-A has 18 pins, so that one's not compatible.
The controller itself is as good as new. In fact, i can't remember ever using it.
I can't find the correct replacement. Does anyone know more about this or have any suggestions?
Thanks in advance!
The 18pin ribbon works fine. The left pin isnt used so you need to put the 18pin ribbon on the right side of the 19pin connector. Works fine
@@sergedna Awesome! I'm going to order one. If it works, i get to experience using a brand new controller for the second time, lol!
Thanks man!
How did this go down? That controller really sounds like it's a really good after-market copy.
Man, I wish I listened to you and not try and use the soldering iron to get the pins off... I accidentally pulled all of pins off the board lmao
The absolute worst part of learning repair is the increased damage you do during that learning. Or as @Tronicsfix says, "fixing it until it's broken".
I have a control that doesn't work at all, just the analog light, changing the film would it work?
It might but you should confirm what is working first. Need more analysis. Might be a broken wire in the cable. The analog sticks, especially in the Dualshock 2 are bulletproof so it could be anything causing the problem.
Have you verified anything works via a USB adapter?
I ask about the value of the capacitor?
Pressure sensitive buttons. I think that is what you meant.
Even I have the same controller which is the "H model" having the problem. The D-pad's up & left button and L1 & L2 does not work while the other buttons are functioning
This is the classic symptom of the flex PCB failure. You did nothing wrong... it just happens. But you do need to replace it now.
like para que se compre una camara nueva y nosotros los repuestos o un nuevo mando
Also I'm confused - these aren't crimped they're push-in, no?
Sorry for the very late reply - the original OEM connector/flex is permanently crimped. The replacement is push-in.
@@roastymike5438 no they are not. I have two genuine controllers that i got with my ps2 that has push in ribbon cable connectors (zif connectors).
i know im two years late but the link for the conductive film is broken. anyone have a new link or model number that im looking for?
I replaced analog but angels going everywhere 😢
👼 👼 👼 👼 👼 -----> 👼 👼 👼 👼 ?
Most controllers (A and H) use this terrible design, but the latter has poorer quality membranes