Thanks for posting this information. I just changed the plugs on my 2011 Sienna last night. My only suggestion is to take the extra time and pull the windshield wiper wiper tray. It's pretty simple and only takes an additional 15-20 minutes. The benefit is a lot more access to the rear plugs.
Hey Michael - great video, thanks very much for taking all the time to create. So I just did the plugs this morning on my 2012 Sienna. For those looking to replace plugs on 2012, the biggest challenge was undoing some of those clips, including coil on plug clips. The front 3 ignition coil clips all broke, probably from the exhaust heat right below but the back 3 clips did not break - but what a pain working them loose. I zip tied the front ones to lock them in. I also used dielectric grease when reinstalling the coils. I did remove the wiper cowling and tray - didn't take much (15 min) but sure simplified getting to those tricky bracket bolts. While I had this open, replaced the intake manifold and throttle body gaskets as well as the rear 3 ignition coils since they are such a pain to get to. Will keep the 3 for backup if/when one of the front 3 fail. Last, I cleaned up the throttle body and intake with special cleaner as both were gummed up at this high mileage. Three new coils, 6 plugs, gaskets, throttle body cleaner cost a little under $200 (coils ~$150) and about 2-3 hours and I should be good for another 100K. Could not have done it without your excellent video - thank you.
I watched this video before changing my spark plugs on my 2014 Sienna and found it very helpful. Especially the part about the plenum mounting brackets. You should not try this if your not mechanically inclined. Thanks!
Extremely helpful to know about the 2 plenum mounting bolts/bracket. Some people just want to be spoon fed an entire beginning to end how-to video. This video is not from a sponsored TH-camr, with production funding. It's from someone, grassroots, taking a minute to help out with a bit of intel for you before going in. If this video is not informative enough for you, you probably shouldn't be trying this. Thanks, Michael G.
I have the same year with over 380K miles and this van was brought brand new at the time, never had this done entire life and still drives very good. I don't plan to change it and probably drive it until it dies.
I cannot find any recommendation of when to change the spark plugs, I am looking on the Toyota site for recommended service and there is nothing on changing plugs.
Great video, I will have my mechanic do this job, no thanks. I don’t have the time or patience if I drop bolts and all that is involved. I have large hands and butterfingers, this is not for me.
Someone who can't clean an engine bay over 100k miles is not who I'd get maintenance advice from. I hope that's not your car, the rust was unbelievable too.
I regret buying a Sienna, I should have bought a minivan with a non-interference engine and with a timing chain and not a timing belt and that has an aluminum thermostat housing as opposed to a brittle plastic one that breaks and leaves you stranded and that you don't need a degree in mechanics to change a spark plug, and, and , and ... Oh how I wish I had not bought a $ienna.
Will V must have a much older Sienna. Modern Sienna models all have timing chains and non-interference engines. Regarding the 3.5 L 2GR-FE V6 (MY2011-2016) " The 2GR-FE is a 3.5 L (3,456 cc) version.[1] Bore remains at 94 mm (3.7 in); but stroke is reduced to 83 mm (3.27 in). Reported output varies depending on the vehicle application, but is approximately 268 hp (200 kW; 272 PS) to 296 hp (221 kW; 300 PS) at 6200 rpm with 248 lb⋅ft (336 N⋅m) to 260 lb⋅ft (353 N⋅m) of torque at 4700 rpm on 87 octane (R+M/2).[2] This version features Toyota's Dual VVT-i, variable valve timing on both the intake and exhaust cams. THE CAMS ARE DRIVEN USING A TIMING CHAIN. Valves are driven by roller-follower rocker arms with low friction roller bearings, and a unique, concave cam lobe design to increase valve lift over the traditional shim less lifter type system of the 1GR-FE. This increases overall cylinder head height to accommodate the slightly taller roller rocker system. Moreover, the cylinder head is segmented into 3 parts: valve cover, camshaft sub-assembly housing, and cylinder head sub-assembly. As such, this valvetrain is used across all other GR engines with Dual VVT-i. Its service weight is 163 kg (359 lb). "
Thanks for posting this information. I just changed the plugs on my 2011 Sienna last night. My only suggestion is to take the extra time and pull the windshield wiper wiper tray. It's pretty simple and only takes an additional 15-20 minutes. The benefit is a lot more access to the rear plugs.
Hey Michael - great video, thanks very much for taking all the time to create. So I just did the plugs this morning on my 2012 Sienna. For those looking to replace plugs on 2012, the biggest challenge was undoing some of those clips, including coil on plug clips. The front 3 ignition coil clips all broke, probably from the exhaust heat right below but the back 3 clips did not break - but what a pain working them loose. I zip tied the front ones to lock them in. I also used dielectric grease when reinstalling the coils.
I did remove the wiper cowling and tray - didn't take much (15 min) but sure simplified getting to those tricky bracket bolts.
While I had this open, replaced the intake manifold and throttle body gaskets as well as the rear 3 ignition coils since they are such a pain to get to. Will keep the 3 for backup if/when one of the front 3 fail.
Last, I cleaned up the throttle body and intake with special cleaner as both were gummed up at this high mileage.
Three new coils, 6 plugs, gaskets, throttle body cleaner cost a little under $200 (coils ~$150) and about 2-3 hours and I should be good for another 100K.
Could not have done it without your excellent video - thank you.
I watched this video before changing my spark plugs on my 2014 Sienna and found it very helpful. Especially the part about the plenum mounting brackets. You should not try this if your not mechanically inclined. Thanks!
Extremely helpful to know about the 2 plenum mounting bolts/bracket. Some people just want to be spoon fed an entire beginning to end how-to video. This video is not from a sponsored TH-camr, with production funding. It's from someone, grassroots, taking a minute to help out with a bit of intel for you before going in. If this video is not informative enough for you, you probably shouldn't be trying this. Thanks, Michael G.
I have the same year with over 380K miles and this van was brought brand new at the time, never had this done entire life and still drives very good. I don't plan to change it and probably drive it until it dies.
Cheap ass
Still alive?
@@fortyouncesofjustice6152 yes, still driving it as of now.
Miles now?
@@Sailingseaotter 495K
never change spark plugs this hard before
Such a pain to do these rear plugs! Good video especially showing those pain in the butt bracket bolts!
Pretty nice and easier way to do the spark plugs! Well done, now i got a decent reference to do my van. Thank u!
Thank you so much for the good explanation.👍
Around where I live, it costs almost $500 to get this job done at a shop. So…thanks!
I cannot find any recommendation of when to change the spark plugs, I am looking on the Toyota site for recommended service and there is nothing on changing plugs.
95,000 miles
Manual says 120,000
You must live by the ocean that engine looks whooped
At time 3:10 you should've done the lower bolt and leave the upper one attached to the plenum.
Thanks a ton!
Great video, I will have my mechanic do this job, no thanks. I don’t have the time or patience if I drop bolts and all that is involved. I have large hands and butterfingers, this is not for me.
👍👍👍👍👍🌹
Did u change old air intake manifold gasket or u reused old one
I ended up reusing the old one.
@@oznol1 me too it doesn't leak air
3/8" spark plug socket ?? I don't think such a socket exists. Did you mean 5/8"!
No. Short and complete
Someone who can't clean an engine bay over 100k miles is not who I'd get maintenance advice from. I hope that's not your car, the rust was unbelievable too.
Still not that simple.
I regret buying a Sienna, I should have bought a minivan with a non-interference engine and with a timing chain and not a timing belt and that has an aluminum thermostat housing as opposed to a brittle plastic one that breaks and leaves you stranded and that you don't need a degree in mechanics to change a spark plug, and, and , and ... Oh how I wish I had not bought a $ienna.
Will V must have a much older Sienna. Modern Sienna models all have timing chains and non-interference engines.
Regarding the 3.5 L 2GR-FE V6 (MY2011-2016)
" The 2GR-FE is a 3.5 L (3,456 cc) version.[1] Bore remains at 94 mm (3.7 in); but stroke is reduced to 83 mm (3.27 in). Reported output varies depending on the vehicle application, but is approximately 268 hp (200 kW; 272 PS) to 296 hp (221 kW; 300 PS) at 6200 rpm with 248 lb⋅ft (336 N⋅m) to 260 lb⋅ft (353 N⋅m) of torque at 4700 rpm on 87 octane (R+M/2).[2] This version features Toyota's Dual VVT-i, variable valve timing on both the intake and exhaust cams. THE CAMS ARE DRIVEN USING A TIMING CHAIN.
Valves are driven by roller-follower rocker arms with low friction roller bearings, and a unique, concave cam lobe design to increase valve lift over the traditional shim less lifter type system of the 1GR-FE. This increases overall cylinder head height to accommodate the slightly taller roller rocker system. Moreover, the cylinder head is segmented into 3 parts: valve cover, camshaft sub-assembly housing, and cylinder head sub-assembly. As such, this valvetrain is used across all other GR engines with Dual VVT-i. Its service weight is 163 kg (359 lb). "
Toyota
1.5L (1A-C, 3A-C & 3E) Interference
• 1.5L (3E-E & 5E-FE) Non-Interference
• 1.6L DOHC (4A-F & 4A-FE) Non-Interference
• 1.6L DOHC (4A-GE & 4A-GZE) Non-Interference
• 1.6L SOHC Non-Interference
• 1.8L Diesel Interference
• 1.8L DOHC Gasoline Interference
1.8L 7AFE, 4AFE, 4AF - Non Interference
• 2.0L Non-Interference
• 2.2L Diesel Interference
• 2.2L Gasoline Non-Interference
• 2.4L Diesel Interference
• 2.5L Non-Interference
• 2.8L Non-Interference
• 3.0L Inline 6 (Except 1998 2JZ-GE) Non-Interference
• 3.0L Inline 6 VVT-i (1998 2JZ-GE) Interference
• 3.0L V6 Non-Interference
• 3.3L 3MZ-FE V6 W/ V VTi - Interference
• 3.4L Non-Interference
** 3.5L V-6 Non-Interference
• 4.7L Interference
2007 and newer Siennas are maintenance-free timing chain. 2006 and older are timing belt.
Do you have your house that dirty?