Much appreciated brother!! Got nervous reinstalling it using the new o-ring because it was a bit tighter and a bit difficult to get in but just had to get past the resistance and it went on smooth.
Getting your hand in around that heat shield on the right of the tank to get to the evaporator part was a tight fit. I ended up popping off the heat shield a bit to get back in there. Getting you hand in to twist that part while pushing down the clip at the same time is the hardest part of the whole process. When I removed the old part, I did not even see an O-ring on it. It either completely worn off or was torn and fell down somewhere. This pretty much walks you right through the process. Good job. I would suggest getting it up on a lift or a ramp of some sort because working off the ground is not easy.
Thank you Sir! I followed your instructions and got it done. The O ring came with it but I didn’t put it on I left the old one on I checked my code it cleared and I drove it around for a while and everything was good! 👍
One final comment: My dash had 2 warning lights on. The gas cap loose warning and then the engine light on (constant -not blinking). A constant engine light is indicative of a loose gas cap or vapor leak. Blinking engine light is a more serious problem, not related to emissions. As soon as I changed the evaporator part, the gas cap light went off. The engine light stayed on. I thought a few drives would cause it to disappear. It didn’t. The fix is to pop the hood, disconnect the negative battery cable from your car’s battery. Let it sit loose and disconnected for 20 minutes. Use a 10mm socket wrench to remove the terminal clamp. And pull it away from any contact with the battery post. Re-attach the cable to the post and it resets and goes off.
@@rcjvet It’s included with the part. There’s a picture of it in the link to the part on Amazon that I put in the description. It was already installed when I removed mine from the box.
Had the same problem and my mechanic told me to buy the factory part from Dodge. He said these after market leak detectors are known for going bad quick
07 Ram only giving P0457 code. Changed gas cap, evaporator solenoid, and evaporator valve. None of them have eliminated the code from coming back. Anyone??? Code doesn't always come on right away, but does come back
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Much appreciated brother!! Got nervous reinstalling it using the new o-ring because it was a bit tighter and a bit difficult to get in but just had to get past the resistance and it went on smooth.
Thank you my guy.
I was turning it gently at first. I realized you gotta turn that sucker with about 74 foot-pounds of torque.
Getting your hand in around that heat shield on the right of the tank to get to the evaporator part was a tight fit. I ended up popping off the heat shield a bit to get back in there. Getting you hand in to twist that part while pushing down the clip at the same time is the hardest part of the whole process.
When I removed the old part, I did not even see an O-ring on it. It either completely worn off or was torn and fell down somewhere.
This pretty much walks you right through the process. Good job. I would suggest getting it up on a lift or a ramp of some sort because working off the ground is not easy.
Thank you Sir! I followed your instructions and got it done. The O ring came with it but I didn’t put it on I left the old one on I checked my code it cleared and I drove it around for a while and everything was good! 👍
Dang you might as well have changed the o ring, while you were there.
One final comment:
My dash had 2 warning lights on. The gas cap loose warning and then the engine light on (constant -not blinking). A constant engine light is indicative of a loose gas cap or vapor leak. Blinking engine light is a more serious problem, not related to emissions.
As soon as I changed the evaporator part, the gas cap light went off. The engine light stayed on. I thought a few drives would cause it to disappear. It didn’t. The fix is to pop the hood, disconnect the negative battery cable from your car’s battery. Let it sit loose and disconnected for 20 minutes. Use a 10mm socket wrench to remove the terminal clamp. And pull it away from any contact with the battery post. Re-attach the cable to the post and it resets and goes off.
Great video saved me a bunch of time and money, thanks
Fixed. Thanks for the tutorial!
Just replaced thos part on my 17 #Dodge #GrandCaravan, hopefully no more intermittent #P0456! 🙏 #ESIM
Changed the part but the codes are still there and the check gas cap light is still on will they clear them self?
Eventually it should reset, but just disconnect your battery if you don’t have a scan tool and that will cheese the light.
Thanks, tremendously.
The only thing about the Dorman brand is it doesnt have the weights inside that move like the Mopar OEM version does.
And the Dorman one fails super quick. Had to replace my Dorman with the OEM. Dorman was $29 and OEM $75. Not too terrible
Isn't there a gasket or o-ring that needs to be replaced as well?
@@rcjvet It’s included with the part. There’s a picture of it in the link to the part on Amazon that I put in the description. It was already installed when I removed mine from the box.
Make sure that gasket is on otherwise you will continue to get codes. I made that mistake for a year.
Ive changed the pup twice and fuel cap, itll turn off for 200ish miles and come back on, any other ideas?
Had the same problem and my mechanic told me to buy the factory part from Dodge. He said these after market leak detectors are known for going bad quick
Everyone I try on my 08 ram rattles when shaken is that ok?? Or does the valve need to be solid??
You need to make sure the gasket gets back in there or it will rattle
07 Ram only giving P0457 code. Changed gas cap, evaporator solenoid, and evaporator valve. None of them have eliminated the code from coming back. Anyone??? Code doesn't always come on right away, but does come back
These emission control parts….. thank you state of California for adding all of these useless pieces to modern vehicles.