The injector and the computer module really is bulletproof on these things. Never heard one fail, not even on saws with 3000-4000 hours. They still ran as strong as new while the saw was beat up to hell and back on the outside.
The guy that owns that saw wanted it together that night so he could use it the next day. Just tried my best to keep all the little pieces from falling into it as I put it back together. Rush jobs are not usually good.
@@JKSawShop I suggest a second foam gasket on the knob where the air filter cover latches on. That's where all the fines can enter the intake. Worth doing it, those foam o-rings are dirt cheap.
just for future reference , the crankcase bolts are made of aluminium , the torque setting on these bolts are 3nm followed by 90 degree using the T27 t- handle wrench , i probably wouldn't loctite them in either , due to maybe snapping head of if you have to remove again later ,
That is exactly the reason why I went with medium strength and not the high strength thread locker. I have yet to snap a head off of a case screw. Knowing the torque spec is what separates a technician from a mechanic.
@@JKSawShop i just do it for a hobby here in the uk , i got a service repair manual downloaded from internet , i did the same as you did first , but as they are special light weight bolts , they are prone to snapping , hence i removed mine and replaced again using the correct spec / torque sequence , if you want a copy of the repair manual emailing , we could sort this out some how ,
Take a magnet to the crankcase bolts. They're steel. Aluminum would be a very bad choice, as it would stretch over time. Remember that all the torque from the power stroke is being transferred to the case through those 4 bolts. That's what the engine uses to hold the cylinder on and transfer that power to the piston instead of ejecting the cylinder upward. Now that I think about it, did you mean that the crankcase is aluminium? Its magnesium alloy, so even softer, as why you are correct regarding the 3 nm + 90 degree. Anything more and you can strip the crankcase threads.
@@em4703 in response to your comment , crankcase bolts are not alloy they are steel , please see video link to stihl ms500i crankcase bolts , you will see they are non magnetic , telling me that they are made of some sort of alloy , so tell me i am wrong , th-cam.com/video/bnEH2nKZ9rA/w-d-xo.html
I would have completely cleaned that saw before tearing down, I also would have used 515 on that crankcase gasket, those saws are very expensive to not clean everything clean and take a chance getting debris in it
Guy didn’t want to spend the extra money to clean it up. You cannot give away your labor for free. You can put whatever see where you want on your case gasket, but at the end of the day, I have never seen OEM have any kind of sealer on the case gasket. The gasket itself works as a shim, so any material you add makes it thicker. As tight of tolerance as all the equipment is, I would just rather not even, put sealer on that surface.
Sweet - nothing better than it firing up 1st pull after a full tear down - great work JK! 👍👍
I think that fuel injection helped with fire up on first pull.
The injector and the computer module really is bulletproof on these things. Never heard one fail, not even on saws with 3000-4000 hours. They still ran as strong as new while the saw was beat up to hell and back on the outside.
Nice work. Back to brand new
As close as I can get it there
@@JKSawShop you did a great job my friend
All that matters is a started and runs
A brand used 500i. Works for me!
@@johnw5242 used beats nothing
Really nice job getting the saw fixed up
They are all the same other than the electronics.
Nice job sir got er lined out looks like!
Got to say not a fan of them setting on the bench.
It’s killing me that the existing parts weren’t cleaned before assembly, but good job you put it together in record time
The guy that owns that saw wanted it together that night so he could use it the next day. Just tried my best to keep all the little pieces from falling into it as I put it back together. Rush jobs are not usually good.
@@JKSawShop you still did a great job
@@JKSawShop I suggest a second foam gasket on the knob where the air filter cover latches on. That's where all the fines can enter the intake. Worth doing it, those foam o-rings are dirt cheap.
Good job buddy
Thank you for watching
nice job
Thank you
Awsome. Nice job❤️🌲🪓🙏🏻👊🏻
It was a little bit of a long video but I appreciate you suffering through.
just for future reference , the crankcase bolts are made of aluminium , the torque setting on these bolts are 3nm followed by 90 degree using the T27 t- handle wrench , i probably wouldn't loctite them in either , due to maybe snapping head of if you have to remove again later ,
That is exactly the reason why I went with medium strength and not the high strength thread locker. I have yet to snap a head off of a case screw. Knowing the torque spec is what separates a technician from a mechanic.
@@JKSawShop i just do it for a hobby here in the uk , i got a service repair manual downloaded from internet , i did the same as you did first , but as they are special light weight bolts , they are prone to snapping , hence i removed mine and replaced again using the correct spec / torque sequence , if you want a copy of the repair manual emailing , we could sort this out some how ,
@darrenfrost5775 if they were torque to yield and if they are that fragile then they should be replaced imo. Jksawshop@gmail.com
Take a magnet to the crankcase bolts. They're steel. Aluminum would be a very bad choice, as it would stretch over time. Remember that all the torque from the power stroke is being transferred to the case through those 4 bolts. That's what the engine uses to hold the cylinder on and transfer that power to the piston instead of ejecting the cylinder upward. Now that I think about it, did you mean that the crankcase is aluminium? Its magnesium alloy, so even softer, as why you are correct regarding the 3 nm + 90 degree. Anything more and you can strip the crankcase threads.
@@em4703 in response to your comment , crankcase bolts are not alloy they are steel , please see video link to stihl ms500i crankcase bolts , you will see they are non magnetic , telling me that they are made of some sort of alloy , so tell me i am wrong ,
th-cam.com/video/bnEH2nKZ9rA/w-d-xo.html
👍👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🙏🙏🙏🙏
👀🍿
Cross threads better than no threads 😁
I would have completely cleaned that saw before tearing down, I also would have used 515 on that crankcase gasket, those saws are very expensive to not clean everything clean and take a chance getting debris in it
Guy didn’t want to spend the extra money to clean it up. You cannot give away your labor for free. You can put whatever see where you want on your case gasket, but at the end of the day, I have never seen OEM have any kind of sealer on the case gasket. The gasket itself works as a shim, so any material you add makes it thicker. As tight of tolerance as all the equipment is, I would just rather not even, put sealer on that surface.
Im glad that's not my saw your working on
I have a question where do you get your long torx bits for your impact driver ??
I think I ordered that particular set off of Amazon. They have actually held up very well.
Those bolts should be torqued to 114 inch pounds !!
I’ve never broken one yet
Where can you find this special tool?
I just look up Stihl crankshaft installer on Amazon or eBay.