We are currently changing out our tub because the old plastic tub that was in there cracked and caused lots of water damage and mold. We got the same size tub and it looks like there is just a little too much space between the tub and wall and I'm afraid my wall surround is going to look terrible! What do you recommend?
Helped a bit got a few ideas. mine is similar center drain garden tub, faucet is on the wall on RH. but in mine the p-trap runs underneath the sub floor board and the drain pops up out of the floor, so I'm having a hard time tightening the tub drain to the p -trap luckily I was able to remove them by just trying to remove the drain with a removal tool and they actually loosened to where I could lift the tubs out. But now they are just spinning when I'm trying to tighten the new tub..
This little th-cam.com/users/postUgkxVoi3B4CB6Oygq1-vo4OTL1M_M5JkrXif tub works perfect in our 6 x 6 shower and is easy to get in and out. Also easy to drain.
I have a center drain by an exterior wall, the faucet is on the right, the toilet is on the left and sink on the left side. I'm guessing the trap would be on the right side as the faucet is adjacent to the laundry room. Your thoughts.
We have a center drain garden tub with no overflow. It's taking 24 hrs to drain. We've tried drano and plunging to no avail. Called a plumber service and they wouldn't touch it. We really need the shower back. Thanks for showing what it looks like under there. Any ideas on how to unplug it? Thanks!
My tub is just like this except the vent is on the opposite end from the faucets. When the gentleman replaced my tub, he cut the vent off completely and did not re-vent. It’s been 2 years and I’m having trouble now and I think it is bc of this. Do you think? And to fix it, does the whole tub have to come back out? Or is there another solution?
Thankfully you shouldn’t have to remove the whole tub as you can gain access to the drain system behind the wall like in the video. You can there put in a new tee and add a studer vent without having to put it through the roof. If you want to talk further pictures would be best.
Yes sir I'm changing out my garden tub / shower fir the 3rd time its purmalux tub iv never put down a layer of concrete because I don't understand what the styrofoam underneath the tub is for any help is greatly appreciated as like I said it's my 3rd one thank you
The tub flange is on the outside of my drywall. Previously, there was some cheap-looking molding covering it. I want to improve this and make it look better. What is your suggestion for covering this up? Do I basically need to add another layer of drywall to shrink my bathroom size?
I'm screwed. Mine is a front center drain and I can't find another. My home was one of the last ones built by local factory before they shutdown and the nearest mobile home store said I'd be extremely lucky to find one. I can find rear center drsins and left/right, so I may have to replace my drain. My current setup is on the right if you're looking into the bathroom. I have never done it before, and it worrying me, but I can't afford to pay a plumber $250 or more to do this. Thats the quote I got. My tub has a cracked in it, so I need to get this done. I have a piece of flex seal tape on it which works until then.
I understand the hardness of getting the right part. Have you looked under the tub to see where the drain hooks up to the tee? It’s usually easier than at first thought to move it to one side or the other. Plumbing is mostly just math and prep work. Take a lo9’ under and see if it’s possible. I’ve found every time that I am able to move them, but I do it all the time so am comfortable with it. I understand your hesitation.
Hello it would work if you have the space of course. Usually mobile home tubs are 54x27. Same basic application however, if you are getting the Mobile Home’ type. You just need to know if the existing plumping i.e. p-trap, is above the floor, really whether the tee the p-trap empties into is above the floor. That is the mobile home design. If you are looking to do a remodel and can move the plumbing wherever you like then a regular house type would work. Thanks for the question.
Boy if i ever had to build a house I sure would spend some time planning on how all the plumbing would NOT be hard to access and repair. That drain connection and p trap are impossible to access and inspect for leaks. Most builders and renovations don't provide access panels and they couldn't care less how difficult they make it for the next guy to work on it. Those cut outs in the floor are where critters will find and nest up under the tub! And let the cold weather in. I ran my water supply line up from underground surrounded by plastic buckets and super insulated it all the way up to the closet floor so there is zero chance of freezing. Now all the hot and cold lines run on the ceilings exposed pex plumbing with zero chance of freezing and all visible so any connections that develop leaks can be easily detected and addressed. It looks a little industrial but keeps me from having to crawl under the building which is on a slope and gets to near impossible on one end of my double wide. The drains are a different problem and I'm experimenting on running them straight out the walls and right to the septic clean out pipe nearby. Up here in Oklahoma the temp got to -17 F a couple years ago! So far with the right pitch no freeze problems.
My master bath is 60” am I correct in guessing that I can switch it out with a standard size tub if I move the plumbing? Also I watched you other video in order to change out the hall bath very very helpful but I would highly recommend going with fiberglass vs abs. Fiberglass is way more sturdy as I was changing it out due to it being old and developing a crack. It was only $20 more. 54” tubs are very expensive so $20 more fore it to last longer is well worth it
Ken Moore, hello, the 60 inch size is a standard house size tub and there are more options available when you go to ‘regular house’ sized stuff. The drain can be moved where convenient as long of course as there’s room and no need to cut out support and so long as you can still have the vent inline somewhere. Also, I agree that fiberglass is best as long as the drain on the unit is elevated to accommodate the existing drain. A lot of the fiberglass ones sit the drain flat on the floor which would mean moving the tee below the floor which is obviously a lot of work and sometimes impossible. Also, sorry, have not found the price difference that close between abs and fiberglass.
I did notice the drain on the standard tub is only about an inch off the ground. I was considering building a 2 or 3” platform for the tub to sit on I figured I can just put a row of bullnose tile to hide the exposed side. Not sure if I’m missing anything I’m trying to pick your brain so when I go to doit everything will be 100% Ty in advance
Do you have a video showing changing center drain into left drain
The most informative video found on you tube for the job I need to get done 👌🏼👌🏼👌🏼👌🏼👌🏼👌🏼👌🏼👌🏼👌🏼👌🏼👌🏼 THANK YOU 👍👍
We are currently changing out our tub because the old plastic tub that was in there cracked and caused lots of water damage and mold. We got the same size tub and it looks like there is just a little too much space between the tub and wall and I'm afraid my wall surround is going to look terrible! What do you recommend?
We have a center drain now. Those tubs are hard to find. Would it be hard to change to a right drain?
Helped a bit got a few ideas. mine is similar center drain garden tub, faucet is on the wall on RH. but in mine the p-trap runs underneath the sub floor board and the drain pops up out of the floor, so I'm having a hard time tightening the tub drain to the p -trap luckily I was able to remove them by just trying to remove the drain with a removal tool and they actually loosened to where I could lift the tubs out. But now they are just spinning when I'm trying to tighten the new tub..
This little th-cam.com/users/postUgkxVoi3B4CB6Oygq1-vo4OTL1M_M5JkrXif tub works perfect in our 6 x 6 shower and is easy to get in and out. Also easy to drain.
I have a center drain by an exterior wall, the faucet is on the right, the toilet is on the left and sink on the left side. I'm guessing the trap would be on the right side as the faucet is adjacent to the laundry room. Your thoughts.
Hello, yes usually that is the case. Taking that panel off behind that faucet should give you that full view. Thanks for the reply
We have a center drain garden tub with no overflow. It's taking 24 hrs to drain. We've tried drano and plunging to no avail. Called a plumber service and they wouldn't touch it. We really need the shower back. Thanks for showing what it looks like under there. Any ideas on how to unplug it? Thanks!
Great video thank you!
My tub is just like this except the vent is on the opposite end from the faucets. When the gentleman replaced my tub, he cut the vent off completely and did not re-vent. It’s been 2 years and I’m having trouble now and I think it is bc of this. Do you think? And to fix it, does the whole tub have to come back out? Or is there another solution?
Thankfully you shouldn’t have to remove the whole tub as you can gain access to the drain system behind the wall like in the video. You can there put in a new tee and add a studer vent without having to put it through the roof. If you want to talk further pictures would be best.
Yes sir I'm changing out my garden tub / shower fir the 3rd time its purmalux tub iv never put down a layer of concrete because I don't understand what the styrofoam underneath the tub is for any help is greatly appreciated as like I said it's my 3rd one thank you
Forgot to explain reason it cracks in 1 or 2 places within a year every time thanks
The tub flange is on the outside of my drywall. Previously, there was some cheap-looking molding covering it. I want to improve this and make it look better. What is your suggestion for covering this up?
Do I basically need to add another layer of drywall to shrink my bathroom size?
I'm replacing my plastic tub with a fiberglass tub. Do I need to screw it to the wall?
I want to take out my old tub and put a garden tub that will stick out but still want the surrounding is that ok
I'm screwed. Mine is a front center drain and I can't find another. My home was one of the last ones built by local factory before they shutdown and the nearest mobile home store said I'd be extremely lucky to find one. I can find rear center drsins and left/right, so I may have to replace my drain. My current setup is on the right if you're looking into the bathroom. I have never done it before, and it worrying me, but I can't afford to pay a plumber $250 or more to do this. Thats the quote I got. My tub has a cracked in it, so I need to get this done. I have a piece of flex seal tape on it which works until then.
I understand the hardness of getting the right part. Have you looked under the tub to see where the drain hooks up to the tee? It’s usually easier than at first thought to move it to one side or the other. Plumbing is mostly just math and prep work. Take a lo9’ under and see if it’s possible. I’ve found every time that I am able to move them, but I do it all the time so am comfortable with it. I understand your hesitation.
Mine has a crack coming from that drain and I want to replace it with a front drain tub
I have 1969 mobile home with 64 bathtub. I'd like install 60 inch bathtub would this work?
Hello it would work if you have the space of course. Usually mobile home tubs are 54x27. Same basic application however, if you are getting the Mobile Home’ type. You just need to know if the existing plumping i.e. p-trap, is above the floor, really whether the tee the p-trap empties into is above the floor. That is the mobile home design. If you are looking to do a remodel and can move the plumbing wherever you like then a regular house type would work. Thanks for the question.
Awesome video man
Boy if i ever had to build a house I sure would spend some time planning on how all the plumbing would NOT be hard to access and repair. That drain connection and p trap are impossible to access and inspect for leaks. Most builders and renovations don't provide access panels and they couldn't care less how difficult they make it for the next guy to work on it. Those cut outs in the floor are where critters will find and nest up under the tub! And let the cold weather in.
I ran my water supply line up from underground surrounded by plastic buckets and super insulated it all the way up to the closet floor so there is zero chance of freezing. Now all the hot and cold lines run on the ceilings exposed pex plumbing with zero chance of freezing and all visible so any connections that develop leaks can be easily detected and addressed. It looks a little industrial but keeps me from having to crawl under the building which is on a slope and gets to near impossible on one end of my double wide.
The drains are a different problem and I'm experimenting on running them straight out the walls and right to the septic clean out pipe nearby. Up here in Oklahoma the temp got to -17 F a couple years ago! So far with the right pitch no freeze problems.
Whats the sizes of the tub. And where wast it purchased? I hope to hear from you soon tha thanks you.
It's a 54x27. It was purchased through Mobile Home Parts-R-Us.
Who can I call to do the floor and bathroom in my Mobile home I live in semmes Alabama
My master bath is 60” am I correct in guessing that I can switch it out with a standard size tub if I move the plumbing?
Also I watched you other video in order to change out the hall bath very very helpful but I would highly recommend going with fiberglass vs abs. Fiberglass is way more sturdy as I was changing it out due to it being old and developing a crack. It was only $20 more. 54” tubs are very expensive so $20 more fore it to last longer is well worth it
Ken Moore, hello, the 60 inch size is a standard house size tub and there are more options available when you go to ‘regular house’ sized stuff. The drain can be moved where convenient as long of course as there’s room and no need to cut out support and so long as you can still have the vent inline somewhere. Also, I agree that fiberglass is best as long as the drain on the unit is elevated to accommodate the existing drain. A lot of the fiberglass ones sit the drain flat on the floor which would mean moving the tee below the floor which is obviously a lot of work and sometimes impossible. Also, sorry, have not found the price difference that close between abs and fiberglass.
I did notice the drain on the standard tub is only about an inch off the ground. I was considering building a 2 or 3” platform for the tub to sit on
I figured I can just put a row of bullnose tile to hide the exposed side. Not sure if I’m missing anything I’m trying to pick your brain so when I go to doit everything will be 100%
Ty in advance
Awesome video.
Good video
p trap my problem