I swapped a 5.3 into my 93 240sx. Made my own turbo setup with a Gt45 turbo, Btr Stage 2 turbo Cam, w/dual valve springs and chromoly pushrods. I got a Bosch044 fuel pump and 1000cc snake eater injectors also. Im excited to see how this thing feels!!!
I am glad I found this channel. The AC/HEAT lines and this tablet you’ve installed are things I’ve been looking for. Great work!! More details on tablet?
I have an 04 Silverado that I’m thinkn about doin this to, I’m thinking a s475 incase I wanna push it in the future, thanks for doin the vid an all the info!
Even with "budget" in mind, I think the GT45 isn't a great choice - heavy & slow spool. A 7875 will spool just as fast for much more power potential and a 7268 spools faster. Running stock rails would pay for a better turbo. You can get used 05+ rails with no reg and run a semi-deadhead if you want the adjustable regulator.
wierd my tuner said my 72/68 was too small and caused a restricted exhaust flow making to much back pressure not allowing me to hit the 550rwp I wanted to achieve.
Everything you did worked well. Excellent job buddy. I’ve got a 06 Silverado 4.3. Got a 5.3 just about ready. I’ve got many of the same parts you used. How are the snake eaters doing for you? I take it you have plenty of fuel left. This was the only thing I was unsure of was what size injectors to run I have a 67,62. E- Bayer special. Are the thousand cc injectors a good bet or could I go smaller.
Had this same turbo in my GTO. Good starter turbo but I'd replace it with something batter asap. They run out of puff around 680 or so depending on setup and spool up on them isnt the greatest but as I said, good starter turbo.
I really like you the way you mounted your surface pro. That’s what I have and am interested to see how you did it. This is my first turbo build 6.0 bored .030 over btr stage 1 turbo cam Borg Warner S475 and it’s pretty exciting. My air intake temp looks good for Texas winter weather but my compressor housing gets too hot to touch. Is this normal? Also what plug wires did you run?
The tablet mount worked out awesome. I bought a tablet holder from amazon that has the ball and socket mount. There is a ball on the holder, then an arm with a thumbscrew, and then a ball mount that I attached to the ash tray in the truck. I just drilled two holes through the ash tray and put allen head bolts with nuts through it. It gives you plenty of adjustability. I've never had any issues with it moving at all. Your 6.0 sounds like a fun build! As long as your actual intake temps are good, the compressor housing being hot shouldn't be an issue. Your intercooler will drop the temp down some, but the cooler the air the better. You will get some heat transfer from the hotside, but I run a turbo blanket to help with this. You could also use header wrap on the manifold and downpipe to help keep engine bay temps down. I'm just running the factory stock plug wires. Thanks for the question.
@@TheGarageVlog thanks for the info! I do have a blanket on the turbine, header wrap on both manifolds and the downpipe. I’m going to have to do something about my boost. Running a line to the top of the wastegate and one to the bottom with a Parker pneumatic regulator. I think I saw you had the innovative SCG-1. I might run that in the future, looks real nice
Can you provide a more detailed focus on the pcv, crankcase/valve cover, pressure relieve setup? Iv recently encounter some oiling issues. My 01 Silverado single Turbocharger ‘china’ gt45. Was running flawlessly for around I believe 2,000 miles with turbo installed. But I blew out some gaskets from positive pressure not being evacuated quick enough. But the system needs a way to move air throughout each valvecover. Idk 🤯🤯🤯
th-cam.com/video/hED6Ljj1O-o/w-d-xo.html I talk about it at the 12:04 minute mark. I basically put a check valve in line with the drivers side valve cover hose. Then I disconnected the passenger side valve cover hose from the throttle body, put a vacuum cap on the throttle body, then put a fresh air breather filter on the passenger side valve cover hose. This keeps the boost out of the crankcase. Hope this helps!
Is this truck your daily? i keep wanting to do this setup, but i do frequent long trips while towing and spend time idling on long trips so i need reliability above all. how is the quality of the ebay turbo and how is it holding up? how many miles do you have on it so far? anything you would change?
This truck isn't my daily, so I don't have a ton of miles on it, but I haven't had a single issue with it yet since the turbo. I tuned it pretty conservatively so it lasts. I use it as a work truck hauling stuff around. It always fires right up like it's stock. I've ran cheap turbos before on a few other vehicles with no issues. The biggest thing is making sure you have a proper oil feed/drain, and a good tune. The only thing I would change would be possibly going with a smaller turbo with the 4.8L, or getting a more efficient ball bearing turbo so it spooled faster. That's just being really picky, it's still really fun to drive and runs great with the GT45. Thanks for the question.
What rear end gear do you recommend for a RCSB 2WD 4100lb street/strip turbo 5.3 truck with a 6/700whp goal (Will be going 4l80e) Don’t mind going 2400-2800ish rpm at 70mph Have stock 3.42 at the moment
Great video, this helped me out a lot. I'm in the process of a similar build on my '02 silverado 4.8. I'm not chasing dyno numbers necessarily, but would definitely like a bit more power and towing ability. In your experience, do the stock engine internals/cam pair well with boost? Would it be wise to look into a turbo cam, forged connecting rods etc?
My engine is still completely factory sealed. With a conservative tune it runs amazing on 93 and 8-10lbs of boost. If you went with a turbo cam it would give you better performance, forged internals would give you more safety for more boost, a bad tune, or an overboost situation. I bought an extra 4.8 incase I blew this one up, it’s still on the engine stand, and the original engine is still taking a beating. It’s all in the tuning, just keep the fuel on the rich side and the timing on the lower side. It’s a lot of work but definitely worth it, thanks for the question!
@@TheGarageVlog thanks for the reply, and good to know. When my 4l60e finally gave out bout a month ago I decided to pull the engine along with it and go through the truck bow to stern. I have the engine torn down on the stand and transmission apart on the workbench. Just trying to decide what direction to go with the build. This will be my first time working with boost. I'm amazed at the condition of the rotating assembly given the 230k miles on it. Hopefully one day I'll max out the odometer.
Can u please share the cold side pipe link?! I want to be able to still run my clutch fan since I live in the city and would like to keep temperatures down.
I tried to get the link, but it expired…it was just the common 3” intercooler kit on eBay with the couplers and clamps, it had some 90s and 45s. I used the kit with the off the shelf bends cut to length, I didn’t have to make any pie cuts or modifications other than the blow off valve and iat sensor bung. It’s a pretty simple setup. Running the factory fan is the best option in my opinion, it keeps it cool like it’s stock. Thanks for the question.
I don’t know that you can actually delete it, but you can reposition it. I had to move mine slightly. There is a company that builds aluminum tanks with built in catch cans that moves it to the side of the fender. Hope that helps, thanks for the question!
In my particular case I've got probably around $3000 in this complete setup with the new full exhaust, but not including my HP tuner and tablet. That's not saying that it couldn't be done for $1000, it would just have to be a complete different parts list than what I used. Instead of a $360 electronic boost controller, use a $25 manual controller, or just run wastegate pressure. Instead of new 1000cc injectors, decap old injectors. Instead of running braided stainless lines, run the appropriate rubber lines. Instead of buying a complete manifold setup, just buy the passenger side and fabricate your own crossover tube to the factory drivers side manifold. Instead of buying mandrel bend tubing kits, buy straight pipe and make pie cuts and weld it. It all depends on your skill set and how much time you want to invest vs how much money you want to spend. I've built a few turbo setups and know what works for me. It's easier for me to buy a manifold setup if one is available that is ready to bolt on for $600 vs buying weld els and building a manifold like I've done in the past. There's lots of information out there on budget builds. Thanks for the question.
The crossover pipe hangs lower than I would like it to on my 2WD belltech lowered silverado. It claims that it will clear the transfer case and driveshaft on a 4WD model. It puts the wastegate and crossover tube lower than the frame rails, but I haven't had any issues with it hitting the ground...yet. Hope this helps!
Yea I was curious only because I bought the same hot side kit and have a 5/8 drop so clearance is going to be an issue Nice build I’m using this as a blueprint
Yeah I'm still running the stock 4L60E with the stock transmission tune. It pulls timing during the shifts. I'm leaving performance on the table in hopes of the transmission lasting longer. I know it wont last forever, but so far so good!
@@TheGarageVlog that’s awesome. I’m currently doing the exact same build. On a 4.8 that already has a stage 1 cam. Hoping for some reliable power! Great video!
It's been awhile, but here are the fittings that were on my summit order. This is what worked for me, your setup might be different. This is for running new AN lines from the pump. Hope this helps! www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-640863 www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-640853
I'm running an Innovate SCG-1 Boost Controller. It has afr, boost, peak boost, and a shift light built in to one gauge. It's really easy to change the duty cycle too. I don't have any complaints with it.
Yeah, it's still stock. Everything is stock except the fuel pump, lines, regulator, and injectors. I take it easy and keep the boost around 9psi, I'll turn it up around 12 psi max, with conservative timing, and 93 pump gas. It just all depends how you drive it, full pulls brake boosting from a standstill will destroy the stock transmission pretty quick I've heard though.
What pressure do you run at idle on the fuel regulator? I'm thinking of adding one because I'm running the factory reg with Sep1000 and I'm super rich at idle. Can't seem to tune it out. Was going to try and drop fuel pressure
I'm running 43 psi, which was on the flow sheet for the injectors. If you drop your fuel pressure it will probably lean it out across the board, you might need to add fuel everywhere except idle to avoid going lean under boost. I'm not 100% on your setup, but it looks like the factory regulator is set at 58 psi. I ran 58 psi initially, had some issues as well, then saw they were tested at 43 psi and turned it down. Hope this helps!
I swapped a 5.3 into my 93 240sx. Made my own turbo setup with a Gt45 turbo, Btr Stage 2 turbo Cam, w/dual valve springs and chromoly pushrods. I got a Bosch044 fuel pump and 1000cc snake eater injectors also. Im excited to see how this thing feels!!!
Thats awesome, that's going to be a fun ride!
Are you still alive?
I am glad I found this channel. The AC/HEAT lines and this tablet you’ve installed are things I’ve been looking for. Great work!! More details on tablet?
Awesome setup man! Thanks for doing a detailed and thorough video I’ll definitely be referencing this when I do my turbo setup
Thanks!
Curious, why did you want to stay with the mechanical fan? Is there a particular reason you don’t want electric fans?
I have an 04 Silverado that I’m thinkn about doin this to, I’m thinking a s475 incase I wanna push it in the future, thanks for doin the vid an all the info!
Can you please do an overview of your hptuners setup and how you went about tuning the entire setup, thank you!
X2
X3 and how to use real time tuning
Great video! I have a project 03 suburban going turbo soon
Even with "budget" in mind, I think the GT45 isn't a great choice - heavy & slow spool. A 7875 will spool just as fast for much more power potential and a 7268 spools faster. Running stock rails would pay for a better turbo. You can get used 05+ rails with no reg and run a semi-deadhead if you want the adjustable regulator.
Which budget 7875 turbo do u suggest?
wierd my tuner said my 72/68 was too small and caused a restricted exhaust flow making to much back pressure not allowing me to hit the 550rwp I wanted to achieve.
Everything you did worked well. Excellent job buddy. I’ve got a 06 Silverado 4.3. Got a 5.3 just about ready. I’ve got many of the same parts you used. How are the snake eaters doing for you? I take it you have plenty of fuel left. This was the only thing I was unsure of was what size injectors to run I have a 67,62. E- Bayer special. Are the thousand cc injectors a good bet or could I go smaller.
Mission accomplished in the simple method. Doing a similar setup on a RCSB 2005. You used stock cam, converter and a 4l60??
I got to find out more about this tune on the fly with hp tuners
Nice
Had this same turbo in my GTO. Good starter turbo but I'd replace it with something batter asap. They run out of puff around 680 or so depending on setup and spool up on them isnt the greatest but as I said, good starter turbo.
can you explain lil more on what you did with the pcp valve please
I really like you the way you mounted your surface pro. That’s what I have and am interested to see how you did it. This is my first turbo build 6.0 bored .030 over btr stage 1 turbo cam Borg Warner S475 and it’s pretty exciting. My air intake temp looks good for Texas winter weather but my compressor housing gets too hot to touch. Is this normal? Also what plug wires did you run?
The tablet mount worked out awesome. I bought a tablet holder from amazon that has the ball and socket mount. There is a ball on the holder, then an arm with a thumbscrew, and then a ball mount that I attached to the ash tray in the truck. I just drilled two holes through the ash tray and put allen head bolts with nuts through it. It gives you plenty of adjustability. I've never had any issues with it moving at all. Your 6.0 sounds like a fun build! As long as your actual intake temps are good, the compressor housing being hot shouldn't be an issue. Your intercooler will drop the temp down some, but the cooler the air the better. You will get some heat transfer from the hotside, but I run a turbo blanket to help with this. You could also use header wrap on the manifold and downpipe to help keep engine bay temps down. I'm just running the factory stock plug wires. Thanks for the question.
@@TheGarageVlog thanks for the info! I do have a blanket on the turbine, header wrap on both manifolds and the downpipe. I’m going to have to do something about my boost. Running a line to the top of the wastegate and one to the bottom with a Parker pneumatic regulator. I think I saw you had the innovative SCG-1. I might run that in the future, looks real nice
Nice build..I have a 2009 Silverado 3500 dually.. 6.0 that I want to do a similar build on
That would be awesome!
While keeping the stock cam, did you upgrade the valve springs also?
I'm using the same injectors but having problems tuning and fluiding my cylinders at startup
Can you provide a more detailed focus on the pcv, crankcase/valve cover, pressure relieve setup?
Iv recently encounter some oiling issues. My 01 Silverado single Turbocharger ‘china’ gt45. Was running flawlessly for around I believe 2,000 miles with turbo installed. But I blew out some gaskets from positive pressure not being evacuated quick enough. But the system needs a way to move air throughout each valvecover. Idk 🤯🤯🤯
th-cam.com/video/hED6Ljj1O-o/w-d-xo.html I talk about it at the 12:04 minute mark. I basically put a check valve in line with the drivers side valve cover hose. Then I disconnected the passenger side valve cover hose from the throttle body, put a vacuum cap on the throttle body, then put a fresh air breather filter on the passenger side valve cover hose. This keeps the boost out of the crankcase. Hope this helps!
I know this is a long shot but do you remember What size vband clamp connected the manifold and crossover? I got the same kit but no clamp
how did you hook up the wastgate hose that normally goes to the turbo I'm switching from a 72/68 to a gt45 the 72 had a fitting the gt45 does not
Tap into the intake manifold.
Looking to do pretty much the same build. What MAP sensor did you use?
I would like to here the truck & a road test
How many smiles per gallon/miles per gallon can I get out of an LS turbo 4.8,5.3,6.0?
Ya know a daily that can shit n get when I want it
Telling my son this is david cross
Do you remember what downpipe you used?
I'm planing to but the same set up with a sloppy stage 2 cam. Any recommendations?
I did the sloppy state 2 in a 4.8 with a single gt45 with plans to do a pair of GT45’s this summer/fall/winter
Thanks°
Is this truck your daily? i keep wanting to do this setup, but i do frequent long trips while towing and spend time idling on long trips so i need reliability above all. how is the quality of the ebay turbo and how is it holding up? how many miles do you have on it so far? anything you would change?
This truck isn't my daily, so I don't have a ton of miles on it, but I haven't had a single issue with it yet since the turbo. I tuned it pretty conservatively so it lasts. I use it as a work truck hauling stuff around. It always fires right up like it's stock. I've ran cheap turbos before on a few other vehicles with no issues. The biggest thing is making sure you have a proper oil feed/drain, and a good tune. The only thing I would change would be possibly going with a smaller turbo with the 4.8L, or getting a more efficient ball bearing turbo so it spooled faster. That's just being really picky, it's still really fun to drive and runs great with the GT45. Thanks for the question.
He's a low budget originalmike from ig lmao
What power did this make?
What size turbo guard did you buy? My inlet is measured 4 1/4 inch. On turbo guards website it only shows a 4 inch and 4 1/2 inch available?
Where is your turbo oil draining too
How can I get in touch with you about advice on my personal build 01 Silverado
How’s that 38mm waste gaite do. That’s not to small ??
What rear end gear do you recommend for a RCSB 2WD 4100lb street/strip turbo 5.3 truck with a 6/700whp goal (Will be going 4l80e)
Don’t mind going 2400-2800ish rpm at 70mph
Have stock 3.42 at the moment
3.73 is your best best if you’re running stock wheels
I uave questions about how you did the tuning and the software
I used hp tuners to retune the stock computer, it is definitely tricky, but there are a lot of good videos here on TH-cam
Do you have fuel starvation below 1/4 tank with th drop in pump
Great video, this helped me out a lot. I'm in the process of a similar build on my '02 silverado 4.8. I'm not chasing dyno numbers necessarily, but would definitely like a bit more power and towing ability. In your experience, do the stock engine internals/cam pair well with boost? Would it be wise to look into a turbo cam, forged connecting rods etc?
My engine is still completely factory sealed. With a conservative tune it runs amazing on 93 and 8-10lbs of boost. If you went with a turbo cam it would give you better performance, forged internals would give you more safety for more boost, a bad tune, or an overboost situation. I bought an extra 4.8 incase I blew this one up, it’s still on the engine stand, and the original engine is still taking a beating. It’s all in the tuning, just keep the fuel on the rich side and the timing on the lower side. It’s a lot of work but definitely worth it, thanks for the question!
@@TheGarageVlog thanks for the reply, and good to know. When my 4l60e finally gave out bout a month ago I decided to pull the engine along with it and go through the truck bow to stern. I have the engine torn down on the stand and transmission apart on the workbench. Just trying to decide what direction to go with the build. This will be my first time working with boost. I'm amazed at the condition of the rotating assembly given the 230k miles on it. Hopefully one day I'll max out the odometer.
Can u please share the cold side pipe link?! I want to be able to still run my clutch fan since I live in the city and would like to keep temperatures down.
I tried to get the link, but it expired…it was just the common 3” intercooler kit on eBay with the couplers and clamps, it had some 90s and 45s. I used the kit with the off the shelf bends cut to length, I didn’t have to make any pie cuts or modifications other than the blow off valve and iat sensor bung. It’s a pretty simple setup. Running the factory fan is the best option in my opinion, it keeps it cool like it’s stock. Thanks for the question.
what do you do with the passenger side 02 sensor
What are the options if you want to eliminate the overflow tank? Mine is bagged and was moved to the area a turbo needs to be.
I don’t know that you can actually delete it, but you can reposition it. I had to move mine slightly. There is a company that builds aluminum tanks with built in catch cans that moves it to the side of the fender. Hope that helps, thanks for the question!
Don't delete it. It helps a lot with coolant pressure.
How much did u have in it total and parts list im doing same way but im trying to do it for under a 1000 dollars
In my particular case I've got probably around $3000 in this complete setup with the new full exhaust, but not including my HP tuner and tablet. That's not saying that it couldn't be done for $1000, it would just have to be a complete different parts list than what I used. Instead of a $360 electronic boost controller, use a $25 manual controller, or just run wastegate pressure. Instead of new 1000cc injectors, decap old injectors. Instead of running braided stainless lines, run the appropriate rubber lines. Instead of buying a complete manifold setup, just buy the passenger side and fabricate your own crossover tube to the factory drivers side manifold. Instead of buying mandrel bend tubing kits, buy straight pipe and make pie cuts and weld it. It all depends on your skill set and how much time you want to invest vs how much money you want to spend. I've built a few turbo setups and know what works for me. It's easier for me to buy a manifold setup if one is available that is ready to bolt on for $600 vs buying weld els and building a manifold like I've done in the past. There's lots of information out there on budget builds. Thanks for the question.
How low does the hot side crossover piping hang??
Or is it tucked?
The crossover pipe hangs lower than I would like it to on my 2WD belltech lowered silverado. It claims that it will clear the transfer case and driveshaft on a 4WD model. It puts the wastegate and crossover tube lower than the frame rails, but I haven't had any issues with it hitting the ground...yet. Hope this helps!
Yea I was curious only because I bought the same hot side kit and have a 5/8 drop so clearance is going to be an issue
Nice build I’m using this as a blueprint
Are you still running a 4l60e?
Yeah I'm still running the stock 4L60E with the stock transmission tune. It pulls timing during the shifts. I'm leaving performance on the table in hopes of the transmission lasting longer. I know it wont last forever, but so far so good!
@@TheGarageVlog that’s awesome. I’m currently doing the exact same build. On a 4.8 that already has a stage 1 cam. Hoping for some reliable power! Great video!
Are you still using the maf sensor?
No i'm not, it was removed and I'm running a speed density tune with a 2 Bar Map Sensor.
Did you change the map sensor?
@@michaelmendo8024 Yeah, I upgraded it to a 2 bar.
Do you have a link to the push connectors for your fuel pump
It's been awhile, but here are the fittings that were on my summit order. This is what worked for me, your setup might be different. This is for running new AN lines from the pump. Hope this helps!
www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-640863
www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-640853
What about transmission mods??
It's still stock for the time being. I try to take it easy and roll into it most of the time. I've seen other people have issues with the added power.
What boost controller do you have
I'm running an Innovate SCG-1 Boost Controller. It has afr, boost, peak boost, and a shift light built in to one gauge. It's really easy to change the duty cycle too. I don't have any complaints with it.
Did you do anything to the transmission or does it handle it?
the transmission is it still stock?
Yeah, it's still stock. Everything is stock except the fuel pump, lines, regulator, and injectors. I take it easy and keep the boost around 9psi, I'll turn it up around 12 psi max, with conservative timing, and 93 pump gas. It just all depends how you drive it, full pulls brake boosting from a standstill will destroy the stock transmission pretty quick I've heard though.
What pressure do you run at idle on the fuel regulator? I'm thinking of adding one because I'm running the factory reg with Sep1000 and I'm super rich at idle. Can't seem to tune it out. Was going to try and drop fuel pressure
I'm running 43 psi, which was on the flow sheet for the injectors. If you drop your fuel pressure it will probably lean it out across the board, you might need to add fuel everywhere except idle to avoid going lean under boost. I'm not 100% on your setup, but it looks like the factory regulator is set at 58 psi. I ran 58 psi initially, had some issues as well, then saw they were tested at 43 psi and turned it down. Hope this helps!
What power did it make on 9 psi
It’s never been on a dyno, so I’m not sure.
What up with these turbo truck guys afraid to drive or finish their trucks lol all bark lol ,