Very informative and thorough video. I especially like how you actually used a pointer to show where items were located and light so the items could be clearly seen by the camera. And going to the manual at the end of the video to show how to reset the maintenance reminder was great! Also appreciated how you showed where the front and rear jack points were in order to raise the front and rear ends. It would have been nice, though, to actually show the jack raised to those spots just so we could see how the jack fits that spot, what it actually looks like. But that’s a very minor complaint-I’m just trying to make sure I have the exact spots correct so I won’t damage my 2006 Ridgeline RTL/Nav
Hi Allan- thanks for the feedback! The two center jack points seem like they would be a bit unstable, since they are both just maybe 3/8-1/2" wide vertical pieces of metal (they both have a hole in them if I remember correctly). To me, it seemed there should have been more of a flat surface on them if it were to be a jack point. The first time I tried it, I went very slowly and carefully, watching to make sure nothing was bending etc., but it worked fine. Since the two tires (or jack stands) on the opposite end of the vehicle will be stabilizing the vehicle, it wasn't tippy or unstable like I thought it might be. I hope this additional information helps! -Tim
Tim Brennan yes it does. For me I just wanted to be able to jack the Ridgeline up from the middle so I can slide a couple of Rhino Ramps under the wheels (front or rear depending on task) because I don’t yet feel comfortable driving up the ramps with this vehicle. I would essentially be using the Rhino ramps and jack stands so I have two sources of support to do work. I saw America’s Tire use the center point during a recent tire installation but I couldn’t really see exactly where the jack was placed. Again, thanks for the video! BTW, since you say you’re in Minnesota I would suggest you stop using that cheap dollar store oil-only use a really good full synthetic oil like Mobil 1, Amsoil, Redline, etc because they have extremely good ultra low temperature flow characteristics. I’m quite sure that oil you used, even though it nominally meets the specs, it won’t perform anywhere near as well as the top synthetics I mentioned.
I have a 2011 Honda Ridgeline RTL/NAV .After watching your video, I ordered a 17 MM magnetic socket off ebay. Cost was less than $6.00 with shipping. It helped me get the trans fill plug in and out with ease. I used grease to keep fill plug washer in place when putting it back in. I used the brackets that you showed that hang down from the front axel, they are perfect for a hydraulic lift jack.Thanks
Very informative video if you own a 2009 and later Honda Ridgeline. I have a 2011 model year. You have to wonder why a company like Honda known for it's innovation, can make the process of maintenance, so impractical. I could not find the transmission refill plug and I have been working on vehicles for a long time.Your advice about making sure you can FIND and remove any refill plug before removing any drain plug is spot on! Before I can continue, I'll have to get a new pair of glasses, a good flashlight, a telescopic magnetized thigamajiggy, more 3/8" extensions, some grease, etc. It looks like a trip to Harbor Freight is in my future . Thanks, LOL
Just completed all the work. Great info., especially the trans fill bolt size. That would have been a pain in the butt to play the guessing game. I used all honda OEM fluids since the car still has 20K left on warranty.
I didn't have any trouble reaching down there to replace the fill nut on my 06, but I had a heck of a time getting it loose. Man they torque these down tight.
I used the gear oil in a squeezable pouch, worked great. Also did my transmission today, just a single drain and fill. I used Valvoline Maxlife. I'm going to do another drain and fill the next time I change the oil. Also ordered the vtm-4 for the differential. Apparently there's not much out there that meets that spec, because I usually don't buy OEM fluids.
Thanks I own a 2010 pilot 4wd I believe they are pretty similar in drive trains and gave me a good idea of what to expect when changing my transfer case gear oil thanks
80 90 is used in trailer hubs on all transport trailers mostly so I have access to barrels of that stuff. and your jack stands are more than enough as I use them for transport trailers 53 foot with heavy duty suspensions so your in good hands. I am a papered mechanic for truck trailer and bus air and hydraulic. I love your video but in my opinion it's a Honda and your choice of oil does meets the standards but lover your Honda, I would use Amsoil synthetic first choice, second would be straight Honda synthetic I would not mess around with cheaper oils when it comes to a Honda that's my opinion though. great video man I will give this a go on my 2014 Ridge.
A very helpful video! Did you put the jack stands under the 4 pinch weld jacking points? Did you use any jack stand pads or saddles? I am a newbie. I know the video is not about how to jack up the Ridgeline, but would appreciate it if you can tell me that. There are people said the pinch weld will bend if you do that. thanks!
Eric Cheng Hi Eric- I put the jack stands under the four areas where the owners manual shows to place the jack when changing a tire etc. I never saw or experienced any deformation of the metal where the stands were placed. I did not use any pads or anything and it seemed to work without any problems. I was more worried about the center points that I put my floor jack under to raise the truck. To me those spots just didn't seem like they'd be that strong, but they held up fine. Hope that helps!
Great video! Question - why didn't you change the transmission filter? When changing the oil you always change the filter, too. I thought that would be the same with the transmission fluid as well.
Thanks very much!! If I just change the transfer case oil and rear differential do I need to reset any main thence reminders on the dash? I believe that's only for oil and filter changes. I have on 07 Ridgeline so it may be different but fantastic video!
My 2010 Honda Ridgeline gives me Maintenance Minder codes for the oil, rear differential, transmission, and transfer case, and tire rotations (and maybe more). So, with my vehicle I do reset all those codes. They all get reset at once, I don't see a way to just reset specific codes when there is more than one being shown. Hope that helps.
+roofdog13 ...not that I was able to find any information on. There was not mention anywhere of replacing a filter. Just the fluid. I did a transmission fluid change on my wife's 2011 Toyota Highlander and that involved dropping the transmission pan and replacing the filter and gasket, but didn't have to do all that on the Ridgeline.
My Ridgeline was a 2010. The transmission didn't go out on it, it was running fine. I performed the fluid change as a precautionary measure, in accordance with the suggested maintenance schedule. If I remember correctly, it had around 50,000 miles on it when I did the transmission service etc. I have since sold the truck.
I have a 07 Ridgeline with 117,000 miles on her. The dealer has been doing my oil changes but i would like to start doing them myself. The dealer uses a oil blend. I would think that regular oil would be just fine but some say only use synthetic. Thoughts?
If I were going to change oil and filter every 3000 miles I would just go with regular oil. If you use synthetic oil and a good quality or OEM oil filter, you should be able to extend the oil changes out to the manufacturer's recommendation or just wait for the maintenance minder to signal you to change it.
Herbert: I just wait until the Maintenance Minder on the dash board gives me the codes telling me the particular type of maintenance is due. For example: "A13" etc. After the maintenance is done, the manual tells you how to reset the codes yourself.
+P Mac : I'm not a mechanic by any means, but as I understand it, when the drain plug is removed only the fluids that are in the pan are drained. A majority of the fluid remains in the lines, pump, and other areas of the transmission and will not completely drain out. That is the reason for doing the 3x drain and fill. You never get all the old fluid out, but only dilute it further each time you run the vehicle for a while between each drain and fill, thus removing most...though not all of the old fluid. I hope that helps!
+P Mac This is because most of the ATF remains in the Torque Converter, There are 2 sumps inside the Honda Trans that will not allow the rest of the fluid to come out (They cant because they flow with the engine on) there is also residue on the ATF Cooler which is also accounted for. This is why the 3x3 exists (Although most Hondas SUVs/CUVs do drain more than 3q) as the name implies the 3x3 requires you to change your ATF 3 times with 3 quarts (This "System" was created by users from the Honda Sedans which do drain 3q exactly). Once you finished the 3x3 your trans will be using completely new fluid.
The oil that Honda uses for the Transfer case is a very cheap off-the shelf conventional oil stuff, Most Aftermarket oils specially Synthetics will outperform the shit out of the Honda OEM Transfer Case oil even today... What we recommend all the time over the Forums (Acurazine com honda-tech com) for the Pilot/Ridgeline & MDX is the Mobil 1 Syn LS 75W-90 and Royal Purple 75W-90 is also a very good choice..
saintballadeer milkovich The # 3 in the code: A13 is advising you to have both the transmission fluid and transfer case fluids changed, in addition to your engine oil. I hope that helps.
+Leonardo Allen Follow the steps in the owners manual for resetting the Maintenance Minder. When you reset it, it resets ALL of the codes however, so you should try to perform all the required maintenance at the same time.
No, don't guess. Check the transmission level by pulling the transmission dipstick, which has a yellow handle and is located at the front of the engine on the drivers side. Kind of down low. The level should be checked when the engine and transmission are warmed up. Once warm park the vehicle on a level surface, turn off the engine and wait at least 30 seconds, but not more than 90 seconds and check the level on the dipstick. (pull it out, wipe it off, reinsert it, and then pull it out again to check the level). Hope that helps!
Very informative and thorough video. I especially like how you actually used a pointer to show where items were located and light so the items could be clearly seen by the camera. And going to the manual at the end of the video to show how to reset the maintenance reminder was great!
Also appreciated how you showed where the front and rear jack points were in order to raise the front and rear ends. It would have been nice, though, to actually show the jack raised to those spots just so we could see how the jack fits that spot, what it actually looks like. But that’s a very minor complaint-I’m just trying to make sure I have the exact spots correct so I won’t damage my 2006 Ridgeline RTL/Nav
Hi Allan- thanks for the feedback! The two center jack points seem like they would be a bit unstable, since they are both just maybe 3/8-1/2" wide vertical pieces of metal (they both have a hole in them if I remember correctly). To me, it seemed there should have been more of a flat surface on them if it were to be a jack point. The first time I tried it, I went very slowly and carefully, watching to make sure nothing was bending etc., but it worked fine. Since the two tires (or jack stands) on the opposite end of the vehicle will be stabilizing the vehicle, it wasn't tippy or unstable like I thought it might be. I hope this additional information helps! -Tim
Tim Brennan yes it does. For me I just wanted to be able to jack the Ridgeline up from the middle so I can slide a couple of Rhino Ramps under the wheels (front or rear depending on task) because I don’t yet feel comfortable driving up the ramps with this vehicle. I would essentially be using the Rhino ramps and jack stands so I have two sources of support to do work.
I saw America’s Tire use the center point during a recent tire installation but I couldn’t really see exactly where the jack was placed.
Again, thanks for the video!
BTW, since you say you’re in Minnesota I would suggest you stop using that cheap dollar store oil-only use a really good full synthetic oil like Mobil 1, Amsoil, Redline, etc because they have extremely good ultra low temperature flow characteristics. I’m quite sure that oil you used, even though it nominally meets the specs, it won’t perform anywhere near as well as the top synthetics I mentioned.
Very detailed video. Thank you for taking time to make this. I'd be happy to financially support your efforts.
Wow, what a great detailed video. Thank you so much for blazing the trail for the rest of us!
I have a 2011 Honda Ridgeline RTL/NAV .After watching your video, I ordered a 17 MM magnetic socket off ebay. Cost was less than $6.00 with shipping. It helped me get the trans fill plug in and out with ease. I used grease to keep fill plug washer in place when putting it back in. I used the brackets that you showed that hang down from the front axel, they are perfect for a hydraulic lift jack.Thanks
Thanks, got the transfer case fluid done thanks to your awesome vid. Fluid was definitely dirty, so glad that's done!
Very detailed and clear in your descriptions and visuals. Nice job, probably one of the best video's I've seen on youtube for this kind of work.
Great video also in Minnesota!
Very informative video if you own a 2009 and later Honda Ridgeline. I have a 2011 model year. You have to wonder why a company like Honda known for it's innovation, can make the process of maintenance, so impractical. I could not find the transmission refill plug and I have been working on vehicles for a long time.Your advice about making sure you can FIND and remove any refill plug before removing any drain plug is spot on! Before I can continue, I'll have to get a new pair of glasses, a good flashlight, a telescopic magnetized thigamajiggy, more 3/8" extensions, some grease, etc. It looks like a trip to Harbor Freight is in my future . Thanks, LOL
Great job brother, very detailed, lots of useful tips. thanks a lot.
Outstanding ! Thanks for taking the time to put this together
Just completed all the work. Great info., especially the trans fill bolt size. That would have been a pain in the butt to play the guessing game. I used all honda OEM fluids since the car still has 20K left on warranty.
awesome , love them helpful tips, saves a whole lot of headaches Thanks ! When you need a rad flush , i would love to see a video on that.
Great video. Helped a lot. One note though I was able to get the ATF dw1 at my local dealer for $7.00 a bottle so a case came a little under $90.
I didn't have any trouble reaching down there to replace the fill nut on my 06, but I had a heck of a time getting it loose. Man they torque these down tight.
Great video. I will be doing B123 services on my MDX 2013 soon.
Doing this this weekend. Thank you Sir.
I used the gear oil in a squeezable pouch, worked great. Also did my transmission today, just a single drain and fill. I used Valvoline Maxlife. I'm going to do another drain and fill the next time I change the oil. Also ordered the vtm-4 for the differential. Apparently there's not much out there that meets that spec, because I usually don't buy OEM fluids.
Thanks very much for the video!
Very good video. Right on the money :)Thanks!
Great info and tips. The tranny fill plug is tricky like you said with the hoses in the way. Thanks
Thank you very informative I'm about to do this service myself on my 07 ridgline
Great video Tim, thank you!
Super video. Would a two ton jack raise the front/back of Ridgeline
Thank you..Excellent video😊👍
Great info!!
Thanks for sharing :)
Thanks I own a 2010 pilot 4wd I believe they are pretty similar in drive trains and gave me a good idea of what to expect when changing my transfer case gear oil thanks
Pretty much every honda/acura v6 is the exact same for transmission fluid changes.
Great video. Thank you!
Good job man!
Thank you! Cheers!
80 90 is used in trailer hubs on all transport trailers mostly so I have access to barrels of that stuff. and your jack stands are more than enough as I use them for transport trailers 53 foot with heavy duty suspensions so your in good hands. I am a papered mechanic for truck trailer and bus air and hydraulic. I love your video but in my opinion it's a Honda and your choice of oil does meets the standards but lover your Honda, I would use Amsoil synthetic first choice, second would be straight Honda synthetic I would not mess around with cheaper oils when it comes to a Honda that's my opinion though. great video man I will give this a go on my 2014 Ridge.
Well done! Kudos!
Me gustaría comparieras el manual en digital para poder descargarlo o donde lo encuentro ?
Hi Cesarin - I'm sorry, but I don't know where you would find a digital manual for this vehicle. -Tim
Me fue muy útil el video y pude resolver el problema grasias
I did mine without a hoist. It's a tight fit but can be done. If you're part Houdini it helps.
Great job on the video, don't ya know.
Thank you god bless you
you sound amazing like someone else who does youtube vids . wrangler who does chainsaw stuff ect .
A very helpful video! Did you put the jack stands under the 4 pinch weld jacking points? Did you use any jack stand pads or saddles? I am a newbie. I know the video is not about how to jack up the Ridgeline, but would appreciate it if you can tell me that. There are people said the pinch weld will bend if you do that. thanks!
Eric Cheng Hi Eric- I put the jack stands under the four areas where the owners manual shows to place the jack when changing a tire etc. I never saw or experienced any deformation of the metal where the stands were placed. I did not use any pads or anything and it seemed to work without any problems.
I was more worried about the center points that I put my floor jack under to raise the truck. To me those spots just didn't seem like they'd be that strong, but they held up fine. Hope that helps!
Great video! Question - why didn't you change the transmission filter? When changing the oil you always change the filter, too. I thought that would be the same with the transmission fluid as well.
Clay Sinclair The transmission fluid filter on the Honda Ridgeline can only be changed by disassembling the transmission.
Thanks very much!! If I just change the transfer case oil and rear differential do I need to reset any main thence reminders on the dash? I believe that's only for oil and filter changes. I have on 07 Ridgeline so it may be different but fantastic video!
My 2010 Honda Ridgeline gives me Maintenance Minder codes for the oil, rear differential, transmission, and transfer case, and tire rotations (and maybe more). So, with my vehicle I do reset all those codes. They all get reset at once, I don't see a way to just reset specific codes when there is more than one being shown. Hope that helps.
can the transmission filter be changed on the ridgeline,cause there are no videos on here changing the filter,thanks
+roofdog13 ...not that I was able to find any information on. There was not mention anywhere of replacing a filter. Just the fluid. I did a transmission fluid change on my wife's 2011 Toyota Highlander and that involved dropping the transmission pan and replacing the filter and gasket, but didn't have to do all that on the Ridgeline.
What year is your Ridge? How many miles did it have when the tranny went? Was the tranny maintenance performed up to that point?
I found nothing recommending that the transmission filter should be changed at any interval.
My Ridgeline was a 2010. The transmission didn't go out on it, it was running fine. I performed the fluid change as a precautionary measure, in accordance with the suggested maintenance schedule. If I remember correctly, it had around 50,000 miles on it when I did the transmission service etc. I have since sold the truck.
+roofdog13 What year is your Ridge? How many miles did it have when the tranny went? Was the tranny maintenance performed up to that point?
I have a 07 Ridgeline with 117,000 miles on her. The dealer has been doing my oil changes but i would like to start doing them myself. The dealer uses a oil blend. I would think that regular oil would be just fine but some say only use synthetic. Thoughts?
If I were going to change oil and filter every 3000 miles I would just go with regular oil. If you use synthetic oil and a good quality or OEM oil filter, you should be able to extend the oil changes out to the manufacturer's recommendation or just wait for the maintenance minder to signal you to change it.
Do you have or willing to do a video on a throttle body cleaning? I have never done one and now that I'm at 150,000 miles I feel its a good thing.
First love the video at what Mileage you perform the A-13,B-13,B-16?
Herbert: I just wait until the Maintenance Minder on the dash board gives me the codes telling me the particular type of maintenance is due. For example: "A13" etc. After the maintenance is done, the manual tells you how to reset the codes yourself.
Tim Brennan Thank you
To confirm - when you drain the transmission case only ~3.3 qts come out but the whole system holds ~9 - ~11 qts? Why doesn't the rest come out?
+P Mac : I'm not a mechanic by any means, but as I understand it, when the drain plug is removed only the fluids that are in the pan are drained. A majority of the fluid remains in the lines, pump, and other areas of the transmission and will not completely drain out. That is the reason for doing the 3x drain and fill. You never get all the old fluid out, but only dilute it further each time you run the vehicle for a while between each drain and fill, thus removing most...though not all of the old fluid. I hope that helps!
+Tim Brennan Thank you
+P Mac This is because most of the ATF remains in the Torque Converter, There are 2 sumps inside the Honda Trans that will not allow the rest of the fluid to come out (They cant because they flow with the engine on) there is also residue on the ATF Cooler which is also accounted for.
This is why the 3x3 exists (Although most Hondas SUVs/CUVs do drain more than 3q) as the name implies the 3x3 requires you to change your ATF 3 times with 3 quarts (This "System" was created by users from the Honda Sedans which do drain 3q exactly). Once you finished the 3x3 your trans will be using completely new fluid.
The oil that Honda uses for the Transfer case is a very cheap off-the shelf conventional oil stuff, Most Aftermarket oils specially Synthetics will outperform the shit out of the Honda OEM Transfer Case oil even today...
What we recommend all the time over the Forums (Acurazine com honda-tech com) for the Pilot/Ridgeline & MDX is the Mobil 1 Syn LS 75W-90 and Royal Purple 75W-90 is also a very good choice..
so do i have to replace my transmission sir? is that A13 means? answer please I need help.
saintballadeer milkovich
The # 3 in the code: A13 is advising you to have both the transmission fluid and transfer case fluids changed, in addition to your engine oil. I hope that helps.
Tim Brennan cool, thanks a lot sir!
I change the oil in my 2006 Honda ridge line, but the code light is still flashing, what should I do to clear the A136 code
+Leonardo Allen Follow the steps in the owners manual for resetting the Maintenance Minder. When you reset it, it resets ALL of the codes however, so you should try to perform all the required maintenance at the same time.
do you guess on trans level
No, don't guess. Check the transmission level by pulling the transmission dipstick, which has a yellow handle and is located at the front of the engine on the drivers side. Kind of down low.
The level should be checked when the engine and transmission are warmed up. Once warm park the vehicle on a level surface, turn off the engine and wait at least 30 seconds, but not more than 90 seconds and check the level on the dipstick. (pull it out, wipe it off, reinsert it, and then pull it out again to check the level). Hope that helps!
Your using the wrong differential fluid! Only use Honda fluid!
+jessesnook
I did use Honda Differential Fluid. I used Valvoline gear oil in the transfer case since it met the specs in the owners manual.
UnReliable huh🤔