Where did you tie in the vacuum line for the BOV? I ran mine yesterday based on the SOS instructions which was to add in a nylon T fitting to the FPR vacuum line, and run that down to a 1/4 adapter for the BOV line to attach to.
I’m still utilizing the factory fuel pressure regulator. It’s ~45psi base pressure right now and I didn’t change anything from factory (other than a walbro 255 fuel pump)
@@dpgarage4501 well shit, I may have to take some 2k grit sandpaper to mine because they will not let the adapters pop in, no matter how much oil/Vaseline I put on the surfaces
Nice video! Thx. You do a good job of narrating as you go. Good editing. It can be painful watching some awful diy vids, yours stand out for quality. As you mentioned, everyone has their own way of soldering, and that's ok. I did want to mention though a possible long term issue with relying on the electrical connection also being the mechanical connection. As you stated, solder joint is strong. But that means all the stress from vibrations, etc, can be magnified at that inflexible joint. If that joint ever suffers from mechanical breakdown, it also suffers electrical break. Twisted, then soldered (or other similar techniques) reinforce the joint.
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Nice work 👍🏼
Looking forward to this!!
Hello, thank you for this video. There is an improvement in potency?
Where did you tie in the vacuum line for the BOV? I ran mine yesterday based on the SOS instructions which was to add in a nylon T fitting to the FPR vacuum line, and run that down to a 1/4 adapter for the BOV line to attach to.
I ran mine to the front most port on the intake manifold where the PCV valve used to run to.
There’s an 8mm port right behind the TB where the evap line runs to, I used that since its short
May I ask how were you able to set fuel pressure ?
I’m still utilizing the factory fuel pressure regulator. It’s ~45psi base pressure right now and I didn’t change anything from factory (other than a walbro 255 fuel pump)
Do the ID injectors rotate on the fuel line? I know stock aren't supposed to
What are you running for ECU/Tuning?
Hey man, I seen you taped your fuel rail, did you use orb fitting to prevent it from leaking?
I used a dab of Honda bond on the 1/8npt fitting for the fuel pressure sensor. Haven’t had any leaks or issues from it.
@@dpgarage4501 ok thanks, I had applied parmetex thread sealant before I seen your reply, hope it seals if not ill try the honda bond, thanks again.
Where did you get the pigtail connectors from ?
The pigtail connectors came with my 1050x injectors from science of speed.
Did the lower aluminum adapters pop into the intake manifold opening? I'm having an issue with my injectors going into the openings
Yeah, I lubed the o-rings with oil and they popped in ok. I had to play with them a bit to get them lined up but other than that no issues.
@@dpgarage4501 well shit, I may have to take some 2k grit sandpaper to mine because they will not let the adapters pop in, no matter how much oil/Vaseline I put on the surfaces
Nice video! Thx.
You do a good job of narrating as you go. Good editing. It can be painful watching some awful diy vids, yours stand out for quality.
As you mentioned, everyone has their own way of soldering, and that's ok. I did want to mention though a possible long term issue with relying on the electrical connection also being the mechanical connection.
As you stated, solder joint is strong. But that means all the stress from vibrations, etc, can be magnified at that inflexible joint. If that joint ever suffers from mechanical breakdown, it also suffers electrical break.
Twisted, then soldered (or other similar techniques) reinforce the joint.