Golf Mk1: Inspecting Driveshaft Flange seal for Gear oil leak
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ส.ค. 2024
- Golf Mk1: Inspecting Driveshaft Flange seal for Gear oil leak.
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Thank you Sir. At least now know where this oil come from cuz I was wondering every time.
I already changed both cap flange, but one of those seems to leaking oil again. I don't know what i have done incorrectly. I sealed with silicone also the new cap as many youtobers recommended but the problem remains. Regads
I have replaced both but I have a leak on my passenger side now after 4 months 😢
@@Rayray-ox7ln I replaced again without any Silicon and It seems to work now!
I have spring behind the flanges how can I put it back
Usually this should be done every time you do your clutch while the box is out. Much easier
Hi PJ, do you know if the flange seals can be changed while the gearbox remains installed? I know about the dreaded 'C' clip but I'm wondering if it can be done?
Hi ,yes it can be done .Not a nice job though ,but with correct tools it will be easier..
Have you done this job yet, there are some pretty hefty springs behind the cups, my golf been in garage for 15 years because i need to do this job
Yeah .nobody likes it ..you must have the correct tools...so I'm thinking of taking mine to a gearbox specialist.😊...I could probably do it,but not in the mood ,really.
@pjs-golfmk1-diy I'm going to attempt mine this weekend, she turned 40 last December, so really keen to get her back on the road now it's tax n mot exempt
i just noticed i have the exact same problem on my 92 Mk1 even the rubber Cover is coming off
I did this job twice..on my first gearbox and second one. But first time gearbox was out cos I. Was changing clutch kit.second time it was on the car .so yeah not a nice job but it's doable
What did you use to compress the flange to get the circlip out
@@pjs-golfmk1-diy hydraulic jack sir..
But while the gearbox was on the car...it was the right side cos I damaged it while I was trying to put back the gearbox.
Damnit i wish you fixed it. Ixhave the exact same problem and is too scared to go in there in case i need special tools to depress that spring
I'm not looking forward to doing it😊 ...I rather want to get the appropriate tool to compress the cup..to get circlip out..
@@pjs-golfmk1-diy i saw a guy on youtube use two ratchet straps. Wonder if it will work? I'm kakking myself to do this job. Especially since I'm not going to remove the box.
@@drevil4454 yes I seen a couple of vids too...and if you approach it logically you could make your own tool with a short thick bar with 3 holes in it to stick two 10mm bolts,(and a bolt in the center ) through it, to compress the cup..,but I would strongly recommend that you have the corrects circlip pliers..because that's where it can get tricky..getting that circlip out at that angle while laying under car seems tricky...a few guys I know have just lived with that leak ,if not too excessive.. Otherwise take it to a fitment center where they have all the tools...but I still don't trust them...cause sometimes it still leaks after new seal is fitted...
@@pjs-golfmk1-diy PJ... dude... that is exactly why I need to do the job myself. I bought both the seals, although only the passenger side was needed as well as the inner CV joint and the whole clutch assembly (everything!!!) and handed it over to the mechanic to fix at R15k. Guess what?? F-ker only changed the clutch assembly (4 f-ing days) but never changed the cv or any of the seals. When I asked about the missing parts and or the existing oil leak the f-er said I never gave him any other parts. Clocked him just then and there and got arrested. Gauteng lawyers are more expensive than anything!!! R30K got me in the clear!!! Still have to attempt the seals tomorrow. If I am successful I will send you pics of the rig I made. Will need a contact number but only after I am successful. You can then copy or make you own rig and publish it.
No ways you can do this job with ratchet straps unless the box is out. You'll either have to buy a tool or make one. There is just not enough space. PJ good luck mate!!!
Hi PJ I recently changed my plug wires, however in the morning I would start my citi golf ( carberator) then it just switches off when I pull out the choke then it wouldnt start after
Firstly .,The choke must not be pulled out too much .Just a wee bit..because fuel mix will then be too rich.,and engine will cut out.
@PJ's - GOLF Mk1 - DIY Hi PJ, I changed my plug leads to Boogey Leads, however my car engine still sounds rough and pulling abit heavy, but the idling is steady.
Check your distributor end float. They have the tendency to drift. Same with a worn cam belt
Do you have a video on the gearbox drive shaft seal
Dirt cheap. R120!!!! A bastard to get in if the box is still in the car. Very doable
@@drevil4454 what do you meant by R120? And yep my gearbox is still in the car but I do have a garage pit i can drive it over
@@stevenharpervw a garage pit is even better. Getting the seal in should then be a breeze. R120 is ZAR money for the seal kit. In USD it's about $6
Hi PJ, i had my seals in the gearbox ,where the the cv fits into, replaced 6 times at a cv joint place and it is still leaking , any ideas. do i need to replace the cv and shaft.
I'm assuming you mean it's the bigger seal that sits on the gearbox.Maybe they damaged the area where the seal sits in.Some are very rough when removing that seal.Maybe best to coat a thin layer of Victor Rheinze sealer on the seal when installing again.
Does your oil leak excessively?,and did you maybe overfill with gear oils
Looosen the ball joint otherwise that stupid cv and shaft is in the way. Lift it and tie it up.
You need 1 m10 rod (15cm long + flat washers and 2 nuts) and 2 m8 rods (15cm each + 2 flat washers and 2 nuts each). And a 20x20mm piece of square tubing. Make slots the square tubing so that the 2 m8 rids have some play. Loosen CV and screw the rods then 1 nut and washer each then the square tubing then the washers again. Tighten everyrhing and then tighten the M10 rod till you can move that bastard circlip. Once out there us this funny four pronged coned washer. Check wich way it came out!!! The cone must point towards the circlip and the 4 prongs against the flange. Do not forget to put it back or else you will need to be an idiot like me and redo the while job. Use straight pointed circlip pluers or if you are rich those flat but straight c/pliers. Not enough space for the bendy ones. Once the circlip is out everything else is quite easy. A bitch to get the seal in with the box still in the car but very doable. Once the seal us in repeat everything but this time around you press the flange on by: 1. Screw the m10 and m8 rids in again but once you have enough purchase you pull the flange on by working on the inner nut. Put back the cone washer and circlip abd you are good to go. 6 hour straight job if you are a newbie like me.
Or you could just use the correct circlip plier for the job