99% of Garage Doors are DOOMED to Fail, But Not This One
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.ย. 2024
- Hey Gang! Today we're getting down into some critical exterior details we'd love to see on more homes! It seems the garage door entry gets neglected when it comes to weather resistance, and as remodelers, it's an area we've seen fail time and time again. It's given us a great insight on how we want to prevent a failure here, and we're confident in our solution! Thanks for watching!
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24” battens. Especially if it’s a split two story with lap siding above. 16” is going to look horrible. 24” is even going to look a bit busy with the tall narrow building as it is.
agreed, anything less seems odd
24" is my vote. 16" is too busy and maybe looks more like jail bars haha
Go with the 24" spacing for the boards. 16" is too busy and it's going to be worse on the longer runs.
Agreed, I would be curious to see what splitting the difference would look like.. 20"
@@DozIT has to divide evenly into 48 to cover the seams.
I say go with 8" or 4" it will be great :D
gonna look like an old mattress with 16"
@@Novascrub ahhh right!
75 years from now the next owner is going to say, they don’t build them like this anymore. Amazing work!
I want to hope in 75 years the new owner says “damn! Grand daddy knew what he was doing”
@@benr1286 Yup gotta keep real estate in the family. Experienced family members and friends wanting the money. After taxes its gone within 6 months with nothing to show for it.
also, those who might have to get at something in 75 years are gonna laugh when find P's scribbles! 🤪🤣
Ten years from now, Jordan's gonna go, "Damnit, why'd we build it like this!? It needs explosive demo to take anything apart!"
Grand Pappy StudPack*@@benr1286
With the volume of that building I think the 24" spacing will look better.
Reminds me of working around the house with my Dad. I'd say "why don't we just hire someone dad ?!!!" And he always said because no one is gonna pay as much attention to the minute details that really matter in the end. Not a day goes by that I don't think, wish dad was still here so I could ask him. Don't take any of this for granted!!!
My dad was that way also. I grew up from earliest memory my dad rebuilding the old '40s house parents bought just after they got married. He remodeled an old porch into an extension of living room and added an entire two story addition from ground up before I was ten.
He grew up in a farming family in Illinois and the rural culture way back anyway was DIY everything pretty much. So no matter if it was basic carpentry, plumbing, electrical, painting, drywall, welding, he did just about everything. The only thing he ever really hired out was serious concrete and block work as he didnt have a cement mixer lol
But he did buy one later for a project of making a sidewalk along the driveway. Lol
Oh and his pole barn he contracted out but hired a scammer madness that built the framing and lower part of metal but he never finished the damn roof! Lol we were lucky, at least we had something to show for the payments, several others didn't have anything but stakes in the ground.
Anyway, I learned so much from my dad and my moms brother who did a lot of other work and electronics repairing, that I used my whole life on different jobs I've had. I really miss him a lot as we were always working on different projects, we had almost all the parts for a black smithing fire pot build we were going to do,but never got to work on it as my dad always had fifty different house and property projects going. He was a continual refurbisher, ive inhereted all his unfinished projects at the old house.
Plus all the other ones of some of the earlier work that now needs redone and repaired.
He still had two sides of the house that needed completely striped to frame and proper insulation, new windows, proper modern sheathing and weather proofing and siding all done. It still has the original cedar siding but only tarpaper undersheathing. It didn't even have insulation in the walls for a long time, but the inner walls are a really thick sheetrock covered in a super hard plaster that's like trying to drill concrete if ya have to drill a hole. Lol
So it protected the inner rooms from moisture as the walls were built without a modern framing top cap board, so the air flowed freely behind the siding up to the attic and dried things out all the time.
But its not too good for heating and cooling regulation.
Edit: "jackass" not madness.
Jackass contractor/conman
Definitely 24" Spacing! You are correct with adjusting spacing per the size of the building. Great video guys!
24" battens fits the size of the building better.
Unfortunately, when I was on jobsites in my youth, the mantra was always “I can’t see it from my house.” Attention to detail was a lost art in the construction field for too long. Glad to see Paul is bringing it back, and ensuring his boys and all the folks watching this series are learning it. Keep up the great work, guys. The house looks amazing. Can’t wait for Jordan to move in!
I agree. The sad part is that no matter how much you pay today, you'll never get that level of work. I have figured out the hard way that you need to do it yourself to get the best quality.
@@thezfunkThat’s a fact! And if I do something wrong it stands a good chance it’s still better.
The other choice is to be your own general company
I've been guilty many times of mumbling that mantra. Unfortunately it's just a reality that if you took care of every tiny detail, you'd either go broke with the time you took, or you'd be fired for taking too long. The reality is also, many of those details are overkill, it's just having the knowledge to know how to come to a compromise between craftmanship and time taken. Maybe if we'd all been running youtube channels that made us extra money, we could have taken more time and adsorbed the cost. 😂😂
The way I see it, if I DIY, I know the corners that I've cut. I know the mistakes I've made and the wider impact on the project, whether or not I'll need to redo things, etc.
If I pay someone to do the work, I either have to watch like a hawk, which kind of defeats the purpose of paying someone to do it, OR I have to guess, assume, and double check the corners they may have cut without my supervision...
I would say the 24" spacing for sure.
I lean toward the 24 inch spacing if for no other reason than less battens. Less work. Less cost.
My husband and I think 24 in spacing would look the least busy and still make a statement. Keep up the great work! We really enjoy watching the regular updates as well as new tech.
Finally went with "wood like" PVC for a garage and French door and never had rotting or water issues again. Works great.
24 spacing would look great from a distance !
I love it when Paul’s Cajun accident comes out! “Three quorrrta”
I would go with 24" spacing. The 16" will look really busy when it's done, especially considering the size of the windows above it. You could take a picture of the face of the building and (roughly) draw lines over the image in both configurations to get a better idea of what each will look like, too. Trim looks dope, guys!
Paul & Jordan I think the 24” spacing looks the best. The 16” looks to close on such a massive wall. Love that you guys pay attention to the details. This is long gone by many contractors, from what I have seen here in the Midwest. Gray video again guys. But looks like a lot of painting in the end there Jordan 😊
a) Definitely the 24" spacing.
b) Maybe I'm a little off, but it would bug the heck out of me if that header WASN'T level. Yes, it's a lot of work for something that's not really important, but I would notice at some point and my thought would immediately be "I wonder what other details they skipped." Big points for maintaining the attention to detail and pride in your work.
15:00 The tracks for your overhead door are going to extend above your trim, I would recommend going right to the ceiling with your side trim, especially if you plan on installing a "high lift" overhead door. Also if you have a "torsion bar" you will need another trim board screwed into structure from the ceiling down to your top trim board. Jordan, if you plan on storing extra vehicles on a 4 post lift I would plan for a high lift door and tracks, less chance of your door hitting a lifted vehicle or the lift. Also when planning your high lift kit, you should be able to get away with 4" of head room if you use a standard side mount "jackscrew" opener, I regretted going with the standard "12 headroom Clopay recommended. It cost me $600 per door to order new tracks, drums and torsion springs for a replacement 3' high lift kit, it should be cheaper if you plan and order high lift tracks with your doors.
yup, they need to frame out an "H" or goal posts for the interior side of their garage doors.
I came here to say the same thing. Those vertical 2x6s need to continue uninterrupted from the bottom plate to the top plate and be well attached to both. That locks everything together and provides more strength. After all, the entire garage door is hanging off of those. You don't want them pulling away from the wall over time.
Concur. I'm retired now but once owned the largest garage door company in central NC. I had a heck of a time getting our home builders to build the interior jambs correctly. And one issue that occurred regularly was not attaching the door jambs securely to the structure, in particular the center jamb piece that the center bearing plate for the torsion bar attached.
Happened in my garage. Center plate pulled out. It was only attached to a small piece of 2x4 which split. @@davidmccracken3554
If you are going to mimic board and batten as used on barns and such, 10"-16" would be appropriate as would be varying the spacing. This as the width of solid wood boards was the determining factor, not the dimensions of standardized building units.
Not only is it not "just a garage", it's all the same level of professionalism -- didn't seem that much harder to do it right and square! And you still look at it every day -- enough reward to do it right. Great video!
When I was younger, they partnered me with an old salt, and between the 2 of us, we trimmed out a 68k' assisted living center. Bobby never pulled his tape once. Nor did he ever measure a 1/4" reveal. Just held it up and nailed. it. PERFECT. He got me doing it and we flew. Still a beautiful monument to our work (even if i do say so myself!).
The last two videos are Stud Pack at its finest! Seeing you "dial in" the finishing work and offer tips on the BEST way to do it is a major reason why we love your channel. Paul's speech at 9:45 speaking to the folks who say "who cares, throw it up there..." - such people can find another channel. I hope you two never lose your attention to detail and care for doing things the best way possible. Don't ever apologize for that or try justify it. Just keep saying "that's how we do things around here!"
I would wait until you have the garage door .... the door makes a big impact and sometimes baton lines don't line up well with door pattern
I like the 16" spacing, even if it isn't the popular choice. These videos go by so quick, great work!
I've installed 100s of mini splits and never found what you've got to run the lineset through! Definitely will order these.
Big building - 24" looks best to me
Whoo Stud Pack remember the original board and batten, it was actually a series of boards, generally the widest available, 1 x 12s with an 1-1/2 batten at the joint. It was heavy with texture and shadow line. You could put battens at 12" if you want to mimic the traditional look but no less than 16". 24" is just too fake looking for me.
Not sure if you have addressed what garage door motors-openers your going to install,but they have wall mounted motors that
go right on the garage door wall that eliminate the chain/belt track,and are supposedly quieter and longer lasting.
Here is one that is out there: Genie 6072H-O Residential Wall Mounted Garage Door Opener
+1 on the wall-mounted garage door opener
24" spacing. 16" is just too much. Love the video. Keep em coming😁
When you do install the garage door, I would recommend a jack shaft mounted opener. I have several friends and family members who complain of how noisy a traditional garage door opener is. They are unable to open and close the garage when the kids are sleeping because the kids rooms are right above the garage. I haven't used a jack shaft opener personally, but I hear that they work better and are much less noisy, plus they free up the area above the garage door for some ceiling mounted bin storage.
If you are going for a traditional Board & Batten look: 8" to 12" random since the Boards were rarely even that wide. Otherwise use much wider battens at wider spacing. The hard thing is lining them up top to bottom
What ever spacing you decide on, divide it up so all the spacing between the battens are equal, please don't have the two spaces on the ends a different spacing than the rest of them. You may have to cut the boards to accommodate the battens so the seems are hidden.
from my perspective i think the 16 battern looks best because from a distance it looks tight! hopefully it doesnt look over crowded tho? great job guys.
You should be priming inside faces of trim boards before they go up anyway. All 8 sides of a board need to be protected
I understand what people are saying about 24 inch spacing on a building that size BUT, I think since it's only the lower portion of the garage getting battens, it looks good with 16 inch spacing.
16 inch. Perfect, Studpack-way 💪🏼 thx Metal Mart for helping the guys out 🙏🏻
For the mini split mount- those heat pumps are very quiet, but despite that, in some instances they vibrate the siding and there’s an odd harmonic effect. Recommend high quality (thick) isolation pads where the heat pump feet mount to the bracket
Cut enough battons do do the maximum number. Then temporarily put them up. If you want less then you can always use them on the next side of the garage. That way no wasted material. I think less would bring the scale of the house down and make it look smaller. More might look busy. It might be batter to decide after the upper siding is done too.
16", for sure! Board and batten is very historical, the wider gap looks vaguely odd and inappropriate. The narrower spacing is much more pleasing to the eye. Like most historically inspired details, the closer you get to the original, the better it looks (for more details watch anything by Brent Hull).
Go with the old vintage look 12” on center and then later 16” on center. 24” if you want it to look cheap and faster.
I lean to the 16" batten spacing. But 2 tests are to first imagine and then do a pencil layout of the spacing on the main house elevation drawings and second go to the curb and look at it with the women in your life and ask them. You would be surprised at how easy the decision is after doing both those steps.
16" is going to look awesome. 24 us way to big imo
I like the 16 on center. Typical board and batten is a foot or less. So it will look more natural.
Im gonna have to go with 16" spacing. I get what the other comments are saying and if it was up to the roof id agree but since its just the bottom half I dont think itll look super busy. And that spacing should complement the rest of the siding and trim better.
16 absolutely! Geez this is going to be a wonderful house. You’re kind of setting a new standard. Everyone is going to want a ‘Stud Pack’ house. Thanks for this one!
W Metal Mart ... just got my t-shirt merch in the mail yesterday, super quick delivery after my order
16” is my vote. Like the look
Wow... I love all the details, that's so awesome!!! Do the batten spacing the way you like on 16", think about the sides where the windows are that you'd get a better look all around and it will look consistent. Also consider the main house when it's built.
Traditional batten board proportions would support the 16" spacing. Batten designs historically have been 1x3 battens over 1x12 boards.
Go 24. The large building definitely calls for wider spacing
I remember one of the best architectural/interior design tips I was given was with repeating, even patterns in custom homes to make the number of repetitions a number not divisible by 4. For example, in a standard kitchen you would have an island with 4 cabinet doors. In a custom island you would have 3, 5, or 6 doors on that same area to make it look less standard. If it was at 20’ I would opt for 16” to have 15 repetitions, or if 18’ I would opt for 24” to have 9 repetitions. The odd number will set a great coordination with the 3 large windows above.
I agree with you 16” spacing looks the best
16" spacing is the best.
16” looks great!
Unlike all those guys who say their bad work "looks good from my house", Stud Pack is doing the kind of quality work that will "look good from my house" for Jordan as he's living in the house decades from now! Love the attention to detail!
I like the look of 16" batten, the spacing would appear more custom.
I like the 16" spacing. 24 looks like a mobile home, and 12 would be too stripey. Traditional board and batten wouldn't go wider than 18" and was usually closer to 12.
"Hey babe, wake up. A new Stud Pack video just dropped."
Looking good.
Usually when I install garage doors I usually put the 2x6 floor to ceiling and a 2x6 in the center from the top of the door frame to the ceiling and then cap the boards with aluminum to give it a nice clean look. The only reason for the extra lumber is to allow for different options of door tracks and openers.
I like the 16 the best I think
The 16" looks much better to me, this build is far different to what we have here in the UK 🇬🇧!
Those screws you used for the feet of your interior moulding are they available in the UK 🇬🇧?
I like the 24" better.
I've always bought cheap blades on amazon but got diablo blades for my multi tool for Christmas and I swear by them now!
24"
From one Baton Rouge fella to another, looking at your plans from your ‘day one’ video I would go with the 16 inch spacing.
Definitely 16”.
Jordan, I am so jealous of your relationship with your dad. I hope you get many more years together! Also, thanks for sharing him with the rest of us! 😊
16" for sure!!!!
Y'all are going to really love the work you did on leveling the trim when you actually install the garage door. They _have_ to be level to work correctly. Heck, leveling my door to get it to stop banging is how I discovered my garage was slowly tipping over: almost 2" out of level at one end. In Houston, it's not if you're going to have foundation work, it's when.
hey studs i would go 16" looks the best to me
Draw it out on the computer so you get the entire look. I'm leaning towards the 16", but I think the 24" might be the answer over all because of how big the garage is, but then you have to think about the house too. So I'm still leaning towards the 16.
16” definitely!
I don't know what you're using to open the garage door but, here is a suggestion for you on that door opener. LiftMaster Elite Series 8500W Jackshaft Garage Door Operator, WiFi it mounts on the side, no chain drive in the middle of the garage freeing up ceiling space. That garage is awesome! Can't wait to see the next episode!
24” oc looks better 😋
I think a mix of the two distances, like 16" above the garage and 24 on the full length walls. It would give it a little more detail, incorporate the 16" yall like, but not be too busy all the way around the parameter
I think I'm partial to the 16"
In my area in RI we have a lot of buildings made with rough sawn white pine from the local saw mills. All were 12" on center, big trees are hard to find. This is a cost effective way to build out buildings and even your home siding. Back in the day a beach bouses were a second home and had to be affordable. Now these houses are being torn down and thousendsof dollars is going into design and build. Turrets are the new thing and cost a furtune. But the original tradition was vertical board and baton 12" on center. But you must like what you build, so do it your way!!!
16 for sure
Board and bat was done to cover the adjoining board. Some old boards matched the size of the trees. 16 looks good 24 gives that old batting look for stuff used when sheet rock cost too much.
16” for sure
Howdy Paul, Jordan!
Long time viewer and I noticed on this video because you're going in and out of the garage door openings a lot, your variable ISO setting is washing out the frames that are filled with light!
I know you guys are builders and not film students, but practicing and learning how to control for that can make for a better viewing experience!
Keep up the good work, you guys!!
❤❤❤
Hey Dingle. Yeah it bothers me. The camera is set on auto because manual is too much to worry about for what we do. Wish there was a better setting
Did a house one time where the homeowner had a batten layout that changed from 8" to 12" to 16" in a semi random pattern, but always ended with a batten on a panel seam. It looked ok, not my cup of tea, but maybe an option
I've been refreshing for the past hour for this video lol.
I have a new appreciation for the right way to do finishing trim for a garage door.
hardie blade, track saw and shop vac makes for dust free cutting on cement board. just did this on a project and its a game changer gets rid of all the dust the circular saw spits everywhere
Bravo Metal Mart. Gotta love those suppliers and craftsmen who come thru in a pinch.
Lot's of good details. I especially like the care taken around the base of the door opening.
One additional detail that would have improved this: for the minisplit lines, separate them. Do one line per penetration. It's way easier to airseal correctly.
16” for sure! Looks great either way
24” Spacing would not only look the best it would cost less. Less work less money. Keep it up Paul, Jordan, & Rad. Wish there was something like a Snapchat story or Instagram reel for sneak peeks loving this build series and can’t wait for the next episodes
Hardie cant be anywhere near ground or concrete unless they changed the spec. Around here you cant use it like that down to the concrete like that, it will 100% deteriorate aka crumble and dissolve away, ive replaced lots of it done like that. Also, DO NOT use Azek for trim, it shrinks over time when used as trim and will leave gaps all over the place, rather large ones at the joints. Better option is to use Boral brand trim anywhere near roofs or ground. Its all ground contact rated and doesnt rot or shrink. SImilar to hardie in that its made with fly ash and pvc while hardie is fly ash and concrete. But all else looks great.
Sixteens look just right!
Jordan your garage looks amazing, I am happy for you!
The main house is going to be even better for sure.
You guys, and Essential Craftsman have the best building videos with good advice, practical solutions, and old timer wisdom. Thanks for all the hard work!
Looks good. Only thing I don't like is the back jambs being mounted over the drywall. If you mount the backjambs, which is the 2x6 in this case, prior to the drywall you can just butt the drywall against the 2x6. Also it's a good idea to run the vertical back jambs all the way to the ceiling so you have enough wood depending on the garage door track used. If using torsion springs you would need a board in the center for the spring anchor.
Glad to see you guys are painting the cut edges of your Hardie boards, after seeing you didn't do that on your Fascia. Fewer battens will make your building looks shorter, if you put them too close together they will make your building look even taller with all the long parallel boards.
Isn’t the fascia PVC?
@@JT_70 Might have been the soffit, I don't remember which it was. But I could see the raw cut unpainted edges on every one they put up.
I like the 16" spacing but since the garage door is not centered under the windows above it's hard for me to visualize the final design. I trust that you guys will make the right decision!
I like 16" center battens even if looks busy. It depends on what else is going on around it.
16 is great, I hope you paint it all monochromatic. Would look sick! (grays ftw)
I like the 16", but I think a lot of others are right when they say go with the 24", especially when you think about how much building you have to cover with it.
16" batton spacing will look quite busy on a building that size so deffinately go with the 24" spacing so it seems less busy
having the vertical battens will also make the tall building look even taller which is why buildings like skyscrapers tend to have horizontal details as well to make them seem wider