Need supplies? Get 'em here! (Affiliate links for which I may be compensated) Ultra Black Gasket Maker: amzn.to/3ub3hiT Superclean Degreaser: amzn.to/330brP1 Scotchbrite Pads: amzn.to/3xiD08Q
Cool thanks. my differential is still attached and I removed the cover. I will try the plastic knife I was looking for something. Wondering how much I should clean out the differential? Like when I clean the old rtv off maybe I will get pieces and bits in there. should you clean all that out to? Like wipe out all the remaining oil? It started raining and I had it open so little worried humidity gets in there so I put a plastic bag over the gear for the night hopefully that helps
There was SO much red rtv on my cover I got the heavies off n said to heck with it, slapped on some ultra black and snugged it up. Waiting the hour to torque and I'll let it sit for a couple days before adding new fluid. Hope it works lol
I bought my torsen yesterday. Is it really necessary to open the diff and clean it and get a new gasket and axle sealings? It was pretty dusty and had some rust on there. I also wire brushed the outside of the gasket away while cleaning it
It’s not necessary if it’s not leaky! I was piecing this diff together which is why I am sealing mine. I’d recommend replacing the axle seals especially if they’re worn or cracked
making a stator gasket :/ Bike came with a metal gasket, but when I put it in, it dripped. haven't pulled it back apart yet, but I all the parts and a hell of a lot of anxiety.
Would you be able to do a video on replacing the actual differential assembly itself and how to set the backlash correctly? I bought the torsen inner assembly and want to replace the oem open diff. The original ring gear can be reused i think. If you know reference material on how to do this would help also. Thanks.
@@CashedOutCars yeah theres deff a lot involved which is why i have been putting it off myself and not feeling confident about it ahaha. Maybe do a poll to see how many of us are interested first? If the number are low then dont worry about it :). I like all of your videos though man you are a great resource for the miata community.
@@AMDcore1 there are videos on it, very difficult and requires devices etc to do - all diffs have different specs unique to the build, a good job for a drivetrain shop if you mess up it will be $$$$
Hhmm, so I think I'm doing everything right but I still get leaks. It's one of those things I can do it a half dozen times the same way and one time it works for seemingly no reason. I've got a thermostat housing that's still weeping despite manufacturer's gaskets and being reinforced with RTV. I will eventually get it after redoing it three times I guess.
Can anyone help me out with my question. If you have a bolt hole that is stripped can you still use RTV? Stripped to the point it won't put pressure on that 1 bolt hole .Would it still seal since the other 13 out of 14 holes is fine? Or do you need ALL the bolts? I don't want to have to get a tap and die and a bigger bolts and mess it up even more to where th ehole is bigger. Same with a helicoil. thanks. This is for a transmission pan
I guess your situation has been solved since then, but here is my comment. For the sealing you need even pressure everywhere (radial or axial sealings, for wet sealing the condition is little bit different). The distribution of the ,,enough'' pressure depends on the clamping force and clamping method. For example, if you have let say total 12 screw joint and they are M8 and the screws are max 80 mm from each other and they are clamping for example a 4 mm thick die casted Al part, then loosing 1 screw joint might means no problem, because the Al part is so thick (strong), that the pressure could be enough even the distance between 2 neighbour screw is 160 mm. But if the Al part is only 2 mm thick, then it could bends at the area, where you don't have that one screw joint (broken). So as always, it is depends on how rigid the parts are, what is the pressure you would like to seal against with and media such as.: air, helium, water, oil..etc., working temperature. In the past 1 stud in my exhaust manifold was broken out of 6 and it was at the right top corner. I was not happy and put the exhaust system back and torque down everything and hoped the best. During the 1 year running test, there was no leak at all at that area, didn't matter how hard i reved the engine on highway. I hope I gave some usefull information. (of course the best is if all screw joint works, because there has to be a reason why the engineers made the clamping like that)
@@laca8612 yes you did that answers my questions. It's a ex gf of mine car so now I don't care but it's still sitting. At least I know what to do if it's my car. Thanks again
Hey cash maybe you can help with an issue I’m having. Alright so when I start slowing down or coasting in neutral I start hearing a whirring/grinding noise almost like a train on tracks going by in the rear of my Na . It started after I had all my diff seals replaced, I checked the fluid level and the diff was over filled from what I can see so I let it drain to the proper level but it still makes the noise. Anyone have similar issues or know what’s going on and how to fix it? If not I’m sending it back to the shop that did my seals (Clutch in has no effect on the noise so not transmission related as far as I can tell)
What power levels are you running / what diff is it? It certainly sounds like a diff issue to me. What fluid did you put in it? Hopefully we can get it resolved!
@@CashedOutCars I’m running just a normal engine so roughly 100hp with an open diff. The gear oil inside from what I was told when the seals were done was gl5 80w-90
@@rauldeu56 if it’s a 1.6 diff there’s a chance it blew but it’s slim at stock power and an open diff. That’s proper fluid to run, there’s a chance something may have gotten in there during the change if it happened immediately afterwords
Gotcha. A failing axle U-Joint would also make a clicking sound like you’re describing. I’d also check to be sure the axles are all the way clipped into the diff
I HATE MAKING GASKETS! 😬 I NEVER KNOW HOW MUCH TO PUT ON!?!? 🤷🏻♂️ I AM ALWAYS SCARED TO PUT TOO MUCH ON AND IT WILL SPILL INTO THE DIFF OF PUT TOO LITTLE AND WILL HAVE TO DO IT ALL OVER AGAIN!(HAVE HAD TO DO MULTIPLE TIMES BEFORE)🤦🏻♂️
Most Diffs were/are oem factory assembled with a 0.030" -- 0.060" thick cut gasket material Without any RTV sealant & no leaks......Unless the diff case & cover mating surfaces were pre-coated with White Lithium Grease, the cured RTV sealant Is a Permanent bonded Hell to remove Nuisance material of Uncontrolled thickness & functionality.....?
Need supplies? Get 'em here! (Affiliate links for which I may be compensated)
Ultra Black Gasket Maker: amzn.to/3ub3hiT
Superclean Degreaser: amzn.to/330brP1
Scotchbrite Pads: amzn.to/3xiD08Q
Great video! DIY-er trying to fix my oil leaking lawn mower....Made it seem super do-able for a first-timer. Thank you!
Glad it helped!
Thanks for the video. Just sealed my 4.3 Torsen for my spec car. Same exact method. Keep up the good content!
You're welcome! Where do you race? I used to crew spec Miatas at Lime Rock
@@CashedOutCars I race with NASA in Arizona.
great audio in addition to a job well done. Subbed.
Much appreciated!
Good job! Well explained and not a bunch of extra irrelevant chit chat.
Subbed… Cheers!
Much appreciated!
Cool thanks. my differential is still attached and I removed the cover. I will try the plastic knife I was looking for something. Wondering how much I should clean out the differential? Like when I clean the old rtv off maybe I will get pieces and bits in there. should you clean all that out to? Like wipe out all the remaining oil? It started raining and I had it open so little worried humidity gets in there so I put a plastic bag over the gear for the night hopefully that helps
Can i use ultra grey or gear oil gasket maker on front diferential?
gear oil, its in a green tube
There was SO much red rtv on my cover I got the heavies off n said to heck with it, slapped on some ultra black and snugged it up. Waiting the hour to torque and I'll let it sit for a couple days before adding new fluid. Hope it works lol
Im doing this on my humvee transmission pan and then going to do this on my BRDM 2 diffs since the front one has a leak
I bought my torsen yesterday. Is it really necessary to open the diff and clean it and get a new gasket and axle sealings? It was pretty dusty and had some rust on there. I also wire brushed the outside of the gasket away while cleaning it
It’s not necessary if it’s not leaky! I was piecing this diff together which is why I am sealing mine. I’d recommend replacing the axle seals especially if they’re worn or cracked
making a stator gasket :/
Bike came with a metal gasket, but when I put it in, it dripped. haven't pulled it back apart yet, but I all the parts and a hell of a lot of anxiety.
Would you be able to do a video on replacing the actual differential assembly itself and how to set the backlash correctly? I bought the torsen inner assembly and want to replace the oem open diff. The original ring gear can be reused i think. If you know reference material on how to do this would help also. Thanks.
If I set one up I'd certainly do a video on it, I've been avoiding it though since rebuilds aren't cheap or easy with basic tools unfortunately
@@CashedOutCars yeah theres deff a lot involved which is why i have been putting it off myself and not feeling confident about it ahaha. Maybe do a poll to see how many of us are interested first? If the number are low then dont worry about it :). I like all of your videos though man you are a great resource for the miata community.
@@AMDcore1 there are videos on it, very difficult and requires devices etc to do - all diffs have different specs unique to the build, a good job for a drivetrain shop if you mess up it will be $$$$
Can I use Permatex Ultra Black RTV along with a metal gasket for extra seal?
Yup
Hhmm, so I think I'm doing everything right but I still get leaks. It's one of those things I can do it a half dozen times the same way and one time it works for seemingly no reason. I've got a thermostat housing that's still weeping despite manufacturer's gaskets and being reinforced with RTV. I will eventually get it after redoing it three times I guess.
Can anyone help me out with my question. If you have a bolt hole that is stripped can you still use RTV? Stripped to the point it won't put pressure on that 1 bolt hole .Would it still seal since the other 13 out of 14 holes is fine? Or do you need ALL the bolts? I don't want to have to get a tap and die and a bigger bolts and mess it up even more to where th ehole is bigger. Same with a helicoil. thanks. This is for a transmission pan
I guess your situation has been solved since then, but here is my comment. For the sealing you need even pressure everywhere (radial or axial sealings, for wet sealing the condition is little bit different). The distribution of the ,,enough'' pressure depends on the clamping force and clamping method. For example, if you have let say total 12 screw joint and they are M8 and the screws are max 80 mm from each other and they are clamping for example a 4 mm thick die casted Al part, then loosing 1 screw joint might means no problem, because the Al part is so thick (strong), that the pressure could be enough even the distance between 2 neighbour screw is 160 mm. But if the Al part is only 2 mm thick, then it could bends at the area, where you don't have that one screw joint (broken). So as always, it is depends on how rigid the parts are, what is the pressure you would like to seal against with and media such as.: air, helium, water, oil..etc., working temperature. In the past 1 stud in my exhaust manifold was broken out of 6 and it was at the right top corner. I was not happy and put the exhaust system back and torque down everything and hoped the best. During the 1 year running test, there was no leak at all at that area, didn't matter how hard i reved the engine on highway. I hope I gave some usefull information. (of course the best is if all screw joint works, because there has to be a reason why the engineers made the clamping like that)
@@laca8612 yes you did that answers my questions. It's a ex gf of mine car so now I don't care but it's still sitting. At least I know what to do if it's my car. Thanks again
I let it dry to touch before join the parts
Hey cash maybe you can help with an issue I’m having. Alright so when I start slowing down or coasting in neutral I start hearing a whirring/grinding noise almost like a train on tracks going by in the rear of my Na . It started after I had all my diff seals replaced, I checked the fluid level and the diff was over filled from what I can see so I let it drain to the proper level but it still makes the noise. Anyone have similar issues or know what’s going on and how to fix it? If not I’m sending it back to the shop that did my seals
(Clutch in has no effect on the noise so not transmission related as far as I can tell)
What power levels are you running / what diff is it? It certainly sounds like a diff issue to me. What fluid did you put in it? Hopefully we can get it resolved!
@@CashedOutCars I’m running just a normal engine so roughly 100hp with an open diff. The gear oil inside from what I was told when the seals were done was gl5 80w-90
@@rauldeu56 if it’s a 1.6 diff there’s a chance it blew but it’s slim at stock power and an open diff. That’s proper fluid to run, there’s a chance something may have gotten in there during the change if it happened immediately afterwords
@@CashedOutCars definitely not blown it’s been like this for a couple months and over 200km
Gotcha. A failing axle U-Joint would also make a clicking sound like you’re describing. I’d also check to be sure the axles are all the way clipped into the diff
How long takes to dry.
This one takes 24 hours to fully cure but will be “dry” before that. I’d check the packaging on whatever product you choose!
I HATE MAKING GASKETS! 😬 I NEVER KNOW HOW MUCH TO PUT ON!?!? 🤷🏻♂️ I AM ALWAYS SCARED TO PUT TOO MUCH ON AND IT WILL SPILL INTO THE DIFF OF PUT TOO LITTLE AND WILL HAVE TO DO IT ALL OVER AGAIN!(HAVE HAD TO DO MULTIPLE TIMES BEFORE)🤦🏻♂️
Most Diffs were/are oem factory assembled with a 0.030" -- 0.060" thick cut gasket material Without any RTV sealant & no leaks......Unless the diff case & cover mating surfaces were pre-coated with White Lithium Grease, the cured RTV sealant Is a Permanent bonded Hell to remove Nuisance material of Uncontrolled thickness & functionality.....?
Get a drill bit and helicoil
Stop saying diff
I always put a spoonful of pepper in the engine before i add the oil ..it 100% seals every sodding little hole permanently
It makes the oil taste good when it comes out too. Is this an actual thing you do?
@@CashedOutCars yup i doos it