Kinda weird watching this now without that iconic "HEY GUYS!" intro. But your videos are still heck relevant 8 years later. Watching this to know more about RTV gasket. Thanks Chris! Much love from the Philippines!
My nephew showed me some of your videos , he's at the age where most young fellas get into cars . I can say overall you have the makings of a good instructor at a technical school . I don't know if your just a gear head or a professional mechanic . If you are your certainly someone who enjoys his career , and probably does honest ,quality work . As for myself , I went to to work for Plymouth after I came home from Korea and retired in 1991 . If you came into the old North Assembly , I would have reccomended that they have hired you immediately . I was from the school of thought that the men who loved cars were the best candidates to build them. Keep up the good work and keep em rolling ..
@@placeholdername3206haha isnt that nuts? He definitely deserves the success he has had. This guy really did just start making videos with his only intention to help people. Such a good dude!
Im watching today because i need to make a gasket for my intake manifold and im not wanting to pay the 30$ for a gasket since my car is over 30 years old . So a 10$ bottle of the gasket maker is way cheaper and hopefully will hold well enough
I like to do one additional step to insure a leak-free seal. I clean BOTH surfaces with some alcohol BEFORE starting the RTV bead. I feel the adhesion is better-especially with valve covers and synthetic fluids.
I always use make, model, original gaskets for my vehicles. But a very small amount smeared on can help hold gasket in place while installing. For instance; Ever try and change an oil pump seal in a 97 to 2001 Camry? The gasket never stays in the groove. So works great as an adhesive in a situation like that. Also a little around timing belt plastic covers after that old seal just starts falling off helps keep water and road grime from getting inside of covers. So many uses for this product.
The idea of leaving the silicone spread into place for an hour before fully tightening the bolts is new to me - and brilliant! I'm imagining this gets you the spread and adhesion - and then some compression. Glad I watched this, thanks.
Couple things on this video, as a ford tech I can tell you... If you use MotorCraft grey silicone TA-29 Ultra Silicone, there is NO waiting period. Once applied to the desired surface you have 4min to torque that component to its mating surface before you have to scrape and start over. Fords spec for a bead is 3.5mm which is far thinner than what is specified in this video. That said this video is fine for the application and indeed most applications, save for the different cure procedure. You can actually get away with about a 2mm by 2mm bead in most applications. For example an oil pan where the pickup is sealed to the block with silicone RTV, your going to want to try and use the exact amount of silicone because if you squeeze an excess amount of silicone into the pickup passage leading to the oil pump, your gunna potentially have a bad day with the high pressures in that galley leading to the pump, combined with heat cycling etc, you risk clogging something down the galley circuit (cam bearing oil feed etc).
Good video. I'm actually one of the Permatex technical trainers based on the east coast. We now offer a special silicone just for rear differentials that you can find at many parts stores. Especially good for use with synthetics.
If you're a Permatex trainer, you should know that there are so many Permatex products that it confuses newer customers. Permatex needs to start putting up charts and graphs on the store displays like FRAM does. I've actually bought JB Weld stuff over Permatex stuff because the JB Weld package said it was for my application, while Permatex had like 8 different products and no definitive guidance on what to use each one for. Yes, there are YT videos, but if I'm standing in a store I'm not going to spend 40 mins staring at my phone to figure it all out.
this guy surpasses any of the newer techs now days ,,,,,and most young people now they simply dont wanna work ,,,,,god bless this young man ,,,,,they can use a good teacher like you in just about all technical schools
I get it, but why not just use the bolts? Is there some advantage to using the pencils? I would think long pencils in a tight space could be a hassle, but I'm new to car work so idk. I'd love to know, I like learning new tricks.
@@DanteYewToob easier to slide on the pencils to the mating service instead of having to get close with a short bolt. Less risk of making a mistake! Sounda like a great idea though and I wanna try it haha
YES 🎉, obviously you actually know what you're doing and did a great job👍. I've seen so many TH-cam fools who spread the RTV Silicone without understanding why it's essential to begin with an O-shaped bead and, horror-of-horrors, they don't understand why you begin with 'finger tightening' before (an hour later) tightening to the recommended component torque settings. Such a pleasure watching you work 👏
Now I know why my diff cover is leaking. Watched the mechanic put it on and he torqued it down right away right after applying the RTV. Now I know how to re-do it. Thanks.
Chris, I am not knocking your work. You did a fine job with the RTV and this how-to video. I too am an RTV user. I build a lot of engines, mostly SBC's. I always throw the rubber/cork end manifold gaskets in the trash a use a nice bead of RTV as my gasket. I am just stating that if a gasket is used on the differential there is no wait time to add the fluid and there is virtually no leaks.
wrr2112 I understand and I agree. If at all possible, use a gasket. I couldnt get a gasket locally so I used RTV. Either way, the job got done, but I appreciate your tips!
Some possibly interesting real world input. I'm a roofing contractor and so use silicone intended for roofs daily. In a pinch once I used it to seal a muffler onto a Yamaha XJ 750 3 into 1 exhaust. No problem at all, it lasted years. I've them gotten adventurous and used it all over motorcycle engines and gear boxes; exposed to oils, with no issue or leak. I note that a high temp red roofing flashing suitable for steam pipes around 4 degrees was so expensive; it was dropped by the manufacturer for the lesser priced low temp grey silicone flashing which was anyway rated up to about 380 degree fro memory. There was little difference between red and grey material. I confess i've used the grey silicone sealant ; as i stated; with no degradation.
Agreed, I use generic plumber's silicone to seal mufflers onto bikes and cars exhausts, as well as bodged repairs. I wouldn't use it up near the exhaust ports, but anywhere south of that, it's just fine.
You can use 4 chopsticks one in each corner bolt hole in the differential to use as a guide when attaching the cover. It will make sure the pan goes on perfectly straight.
Good to see that someone is actually doing this properly. All other videos I have seen, people are smearing a thin layer of RTV around the cover flange. Then when the RTV is to thin they will wonder why the diff is leaking.
Good video, however I would recommend to do the first round of torquing with 50% of the recommended torque. After 1-2 hours, run the final round of the remaining 50%. Never leaked a single seal for last 26 yrs I have been using this procedure.
Hi, I'm wondering if this would be the same application (let the sealant seat for 15minutes before putting the cover back) for the front timing gear cover? I've installed mine but oil started to leak on sides after some time :( please advice and thank you in advance
Permatex now makes a gear oil RTV gasket maker/sealant, especially for differentials. It's in a green tube. Available at most Auto Parts stores. About $15. Specially formulated to withstand the harsh gear oil environment found in differentials and transfer cases Specialty silicone does not break down against gear oil friction modifiers Seeks and seals leak paths that cut gaskets cannot Tested to Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) specifications to ensure complete sealing power Sensor safe, non-toxic, and non-flammable
All gasket makers and flange sealants need some time to cure before the assembly can be put back into service. Failure to wait the correct amount of time can compromise the integrity of your seal. Typically, RTVs require a minimum of two hours to set up and 24-hours to achieve the full cure that’s needed before adding fluids or returning the vehicle to service.
I put my rtv on and let it sit for 15-20 mins. Then i slammed it on and tightened it by guess estimates instantly. The rtv splurted out the sides but it doesn't leak.
ChrisFix Loctite 5922 is also a good product if you want to glue your paper gasket on.. But remember that the glue needs 24 hours to dry. Some people have used very thick bearing grease to glue the paper gasket into the part. It works as the grease just dries off and is squished away when you bolt on the part..
I do this but I spread it thinner over the whole bolt area with my finger. Then I put the oem gasket on that, making sure to line the holes up, then let it dry face down on a piece of cardboard with some weight on top of it. Once that's dry I spread a thin layer on the opposite side of gasket, put pan on vehicle finger tight, then torque after 20 minutes. After 1 hour I add fluid and test drive. In the 30 years I've been doing this never had a single leak. In my opinion a lot of people that have leaks are doing this when it's too cold outside. Remember RTV stands for (room temperature vulcanization).
Nice job,have been watching your videos for some time now.However i have some concerns about the method. In permatex products the only gasket maker that need some time to become tacky before assembly are the solvent based gasket makers. The silicone RTV gasket makers all mention that assembly right after you spread the bead with normal pressure so as to for the RTV to spread and after ten minutes or one hour,(depends on the type)torque to specs. The only exception is "permatex the right stuff" which have no cure time,just aplly assemble and torque and your good to go.
I used The Right Stuff (Permatex) to replace the cover with a new one that has a drain bolt with no issues. I did not have the holes properly aligned and had to move it around more than I would have liked but still no leaks. The Right Stuff has not let me down and I still have some left from the prior trans pan replacement. I did use Acetone to clean both surfaces and torqued the bolts to 25 ft lbs immediately after getting all bolts properly threaded.
4:25 Love your videos! They've helped me immensely several times. Hate to nitpick, but you missed final torque of the 4 o'clock bolt. In the video, you never touched it because your star pattern is faulty and semi-random. Correct process, starting from your desired 6 o'clock position, would be 6, 12, 7, 1, 8, 2, 9, 3, 10, 4, 11 and finally 5 o'clock. Then you'd hit all 12 evenly and consistently. 4:25 EDIT: I assume that this has been pointed out already in 617 other comments, but I don't care to dig and also assume that the correct process wouldn't be mentioned as I have above. Thanks!
Very helpful Vid, appreciate when folks give practical advice. Not sure why some people and some instructions, suggest putting a bead AROUND each bolt hole-to me this makes zero sense since going around the whole bolt hole does nothing to further the seal.
Seems all good in your procedure. Personally I would also loop it fully around the holes, not just the inside. Although I would close around the holes after I'd done the main run. Anyone else have thoughts on this ? Oh and for anyone with a lathe or know someone that does, I would get a couple of longer guide pins to pass straight through cover and then through the tapped holes and then press home the cover. Temporary studs fixed in the housing could work, but if you miss hit them on approach then your gonna have to fix that sealant smudge again.
If the silicone becomes visible from outside (like e.g. 4:09) to much has been used and it might also protrude inwards. As it is unclear if it can breake of and harm, to control if the job is well done the silicone might rather not be visible from outside at all. 1/4" seems to much. My differential is in the front and have a lower plate. I tend to do it like this 1) A circle of 1/16" all around and close to the holes for the bolts 2) Connection lines between these applications being from 1/16" (close to the holes) and up to 1/8" between the holes to compensate if the plate is a little warped. - ChrisFix's videos are detailed and scientifical. In fact awesome, I learn a lot from him! But in this one it appears he had left room for a little bessermachen. Anyway, thank you!
Great video, really helpful. i was looking to know if I needed to put junk back together before or after curing - this video definitely answered that question, and I'm sure it answered plenty of other questions for other folks. This is what TH-cam is all about. Props to you, good sir.
Wow thank you man! I installed a water pump with blue rtv gasket maker and I didn’t give it 15 min to dry up a little instead I installed it right away and I did do everything else like hand right and let sit for an hour and then torque it to spec, but then the next day when I added the coolant it leaked bad lol well now I know what I did wrong thank you so much for uploading these how to videos
Just one point, I work in engine production, you shouldn't leave rtv 15 minutes to get tacky, you should fit it as soon as applied to get a full seal, we fit ours as soon as it's applied, just a future tip as over time you might get more leaks 🙂👍
@@chrisfix maybe, that's the problem of my installation, I applied not enough, sealed it immediately and install poured oil right away. I will try your method. hope It will solve my problem.
Just a heads up for anyone doing this, Permatex makes a differential product. It comes in a GREEN bottle called “Gear Oil Gasket Maker” and it has even better oil and pressure resistance than the black. It’s not resistant to gas though so it’s good for differentials and transfer cases but not on the engine block. If you have an older vehicle with a leaking diff, a large diff, slip diff generating heat, venting issues… I would recommend the green.
Great video! I find the easiest way is to put red Permatex on the cover, same with a valve cover. Then lay the gasket onto the Permatex, let it dry, then install. Never put Permatex between the gasket and engine, or in your case, the differential. Thanks for making and posting this video. Thumbs up and new sub.
With things like this you don't need torque, just tighten by hand and then just a bit 1/4 to 1/2 turn stopping when resistance becomes high. Works on spark plugs (it's even in the instructions), so it works on most other things too that are under low stress. You've assured me not buying a pre formed gasket, this stuff is cheaper and does the job.
@@davidwasicek9869 Hi, I purchased the ultra black since I have leaks all over now. Do you also wait 15minutes before putting in the cover or put it right away? I had a problem putting it right away, maybe the reason for the leak :( Please advice and thank you in advance
Hey Chris my name is Chris also this was a helpful video on how to make a gasket out of RTV silicone my son was changing his oil well he turned the oil drain bolt to the right instead of turning it left so the oil pan has to come off of his toyota 4runner it stripped the bolt out.Thanks Chris
Put some short studs in a few of the differential bolt holes and use them as alignment pins when you install the cover.....makes it easy to get it on perfectly straight.
twistdshade Good eye. I torqued it down but edited it out by mistake lol. Glad the video was helpful! Definitely consider subscribing! New automotive "how to" videos every Thursday and most Mondays!
ChrisFix Hey if you ever get the chance, post some stuff about small engines. Single cylinder stuff like mopeds and lawn mowers. :) That's all I've been working on lately since the parts are so cheap and lots of folks have old broken down yard equipment collecting dust.
I googled "silicone instead of gasket" and who appeared? Mi amigo! Hello!!! of course! If I was going to pay for all the money I have saved with you, I owe you a brand new Corvette! Gracias Chris!
thanks now I know where ive been going wrong and tightening (pool multiport) too much too soon.due! without helpful dudes like you the net would be a poorer place...
Unfortunately you miss one bolt Chris, but it was happened 5 years ago... And now you're super pro! 👍👍👍👍👍 I always love all of your tutorial... Great job!
I didn't read the channel but I was thinking "Must be a ChrisFix Video, I'll watch it later"... I was gladly surprised at the end of the video that I was on ChrisFix already! Thanks a lot again for sharing your knowledge! From Chile
@@chrisfix There's no water there, until it gets trapped by gravity in the convenient little wells we just made, along with some dirt. Better to give it a nice little roof.
As long as the proper differential oil is used the sealant will do instead of a gasket, however some people pour ATF into differentials which can dissolve silicone based sealers.
Calvin Harris I dont have any of those videos but I can make them (I always look for suggestions on what videos my subscribers want). By fuel line /top end cleaning, do you mean with a cleaner like sea foam? How do you know you need to clean it?
I just did this job today. When I went to install using the blue rtv, i read they recommend letting it cure 24 hours before adding fluid' I needed the car back on the road so I went to the store and got an old fashioned felpro gasket. good to go with no waiting. I found it interesting that they don't come with a gasket from the factory but are available aftermarket.
Hi, I did exactly what you did in the video, waited the hour to tighten, when I tightened the bolts more goo was oozing out? I thought waiting the hour would of set it off
True this is a very proper procedure but when you're changing axle bearings on flat rate, you learn that rtv just ain't that picky in the real world. It's hard to use too little rtv and no big deal if you use a little too much. Smear it on, run down the bolts and let her roll.
I've done this about five or six times and not a single one of them has lasted over a year. It'll last long enough for your gasket to ship to your house if you don't have it.
My 1988 Suzuki Samurai doesn't use an oil pan gasket at all. It is like that from the factory. Only rtv. I could never get a good answer on instruction on how to properly use rtv and the diagram in my service manual is old and black and white so you can't properly see the bead at all. Your video has helped alot.
No need to wait an hour if you use the correct RTV. All factory built assemblies using RTV, and no gasket, and simply torqued to spec and moved down the assembly line.
AHH man the little things are so important: clean with brake cleaner, constant bead of RTV inside of bolt holes, leave for 15 mins before hand tighten, then torque spec after 1 hour. Leave for 24 hours before use. The can has no instructions on it at all! Just temperature specs and what it is. Thanks for the video.
Kinda weird watching this now without that iconic "HEY GUYS!" intro. But your videos are still heck relevant 8 years later. Watching this to know more about RTV gasket. Thanks Chris! Much love from the Philippines!
Yeah
My nephew showed me some of your videos , he's at the age where most young fellas get into cars . I can say overall you have the makings of a good instructor at a technical school . I don't know if your just a gear head or a professional mechanic . If you are your certainly someone who enjoys his career , and probably does honest ,quality work . As for myself , I went to to work for Plymouth after I came home from Korea and retired in 1991 . If you came into the old North Assembly , I would have reccomended that they have hired you immediately . I was from the school of thought that the men who loved cars were the best candidates to build them. Keep up the good work and keep em rolling ..
These videos earn him millions of dollars a year. Hes literally a multi millionaire. ChrisFix won't be teaching at any schools anytime soon
@@placeholdername3206haha isnt that nuts? He definitely deserves the success he has had. This guy really did just start making videos with his only intention to help people. Such a good dude!
Obviously not just a gear head with every repair for us we could need. You owe bro a thanks lmao.
i thinks hes putting the gasket on the wrong side...
Your presentation has improved quite a bit in three years. Much more energy in your voice now!
You on drugs?
Cars Simplified LOL
Hahaha, just stumbled upon this. Couldn't agree more!
3yeare you been following 👀
Just wait, he gets WAY better later on.
it's fun to binge on your older videos once in a while
Awesome!
Im watching today because i need to make a gasket for my intake manifold and im not wanting to pay the 30$ for a gasket since my car is over 30 years old . So a 10$ bottle of the gasket maker is way cheaper and hopefully will hold well enough
I like to do one additional step to insure a leak-free seal. I clean BOTH surfaces with some alcohol BEFORE starting the RTV bead. I feel the adhesion is better-especially with valve covers and synthetic fluids.
Should clean both with brake fluid, maybe ChrisFix will remake it one day with the accumulated experience eheh
@@joaquimt.duarte2538its implied dumb dumb
@@joaquimt.duarte2538 Not brake fluid...brake Cleaner.
I always use make, model, original gaskets for my vehicles. But a very small amount smeared on can help hold gasket in place while installing. For instance; Ever try and change an oil pump seal in a 97 to 2001 Camry? The gasket never stays in the groove. So works great as an adhesive in a situation like that. Also a little around timing belt plastic covers after that old seal just starts falling off helps keep water and road grime from getting inside of covers. So many uses for this product.
The idea of leaving the silicone spread into place for an hour before fully tightening the bolts is new to me - and brilliant! I'm imagining this gets you the spread and adhesion - and then some compression. Glad I watched this, thanks.
Couple things on this video, as a ford tech I can tell you...
If you use MotorCraft grey silicone TA-29 Ultra Silicone, there is NO waiting period. Once applied to the desired surface you have 4min to torque that component to its mating surface before you have to scrape and start over.
Fords spec for a bead is 3.5mm which is far thinner than what is specified in this video. That said this video is fine for the application and indeed most applications, save for the different cure procedure. You can actually get away with about a 2mm by 2mm bead in most applications. For example an oil pan where the pickup is sealed to the block with silicone RTV, your going to want to try and use the exact amount of silicone because if you squeeze an excess amount of silicone into the pickup passage leading to the oil pump, your gunna potentially have a bad day with the high pressures in that galley leading to the pump, combined with heat cycling etc, you risk clogging something down the galley circuit (cam bearing oil feed etc).
does the grey work on water pumps iused red HT isuzu 3.9 4db1t done today try in morning after set
Man, watching these mechanical videos is addicting, I'm learning a ton.
Glad you are learning a lot!
I’m watching this video in 2021 but your videos are timeless. Thank u Chrisfix
I’m in 2024 🫡
Good video. I'm actually one of the Permatex technical trainers based on the east coast. We now offer a special silicone just for rear differentials that you can find at many parts stores. Especially good for use with synthetics.
Thanks a lot! Glad to see a Permatex tech trainer is acknowledging my work! It is a great product!
How do I know if the rtv silicone is gear oil compatible I bought height temp red rtv gasket maker
Hmmm, Chris Fox commenting on Chris Fix videos...
If you're a Permatex trainer, you should know that there are so many Permatex products that it confuses newer customers. Permatex needs to start putting up charts and graphs on the store displays like FRAM does. I've actually bought JB Weld stuff over Permatex stuff because the JB Weld package said it was for my application, while Permatex had like 8 different products and no definitive guidance on what to use each one for. Yes, there are YT videos, but if I'm standing in a store I'm not going to spend 40 mins staring at my phone to figure it all out.
@@cbpuzzle Same here. I bought permatex, but I'm searching now to see if its good for my application.
this guy surpasses any of the newer techs now days ,,,,,and most young people now they simply dont wanna work ,,,,,god bless this young man ,,,,,they can use a good teacher like you in just about all technical schools
Thanks a lot!
I have been using #2 yellow pencils to line up bolt holes over 45 yrs....try it...
Great idea! thanks!
How so? Can you explain
@@eltonpham2165 I think he means they're used as pins to find good placement
I get it, but why not just use the bolts? Is there some advantage to using the pencils? I would think long pencils in a tight space could be a hassle, but I'm new to car work so idk. I'd love to know, I like learning new tricks.
@@DanteYewToob easier to slide on the pencils to the mating service instead of having to get close with a short bolt. Less risk of making a mistake! Sounda like a great idea though and I wanna try it haha
YES 🎉, obviously you actually know what you're doing and did a great job👍.
I've seen so many TH-cam fools who spread the RTV Silicone without understanding why it's essential to begin with an O-shaped bead and, horror-of-horrors, they don't understand why you begin with 'finger tightening' before (an hour later) tightening to the recommended component torque settings.
Such a pleasure watching you work 👏
Thanks a lot!
Now I know why my diff cover is leaking. Watched the mechanic put it on and he torqued it down right away right after applying the RTV. Now I know how to re-do it. Thanks.
If you use two bolts with the heads cut off as studs, it works without worrying about getting it on wrong or smeared.
Chris, I am not knocking your work. You did a fine job with the RTV and this how-to video. I too am an RTV user. I build a lot of engines, mostly SBC's. I always throw the rubber/cork end manifold gaskets in the trash a use a nice bead of RTV as my gasket.
I am just stating that if a gasket is used on the differential there is no wait time to add the fluid and there is virtually no leaks.
wrr2112 I understand and I agree. If at all possible, use a gasket. I couldnt get a gasket locally so I used RTV. Either way, the job got done, but I appreciate your tips!
Some possibly interesting real world input. I'm a roofing contractor and so use silicone intended for roofs daily. In a pinch once I used it to seal a muffler onto a Yamaha XJ 750 3 into 1 exhaust. No problem at all, it lasted years. I've them gotten adventurous and used it all over motorcycle engines and gear boxes; exposed to oils, with no issue or leak. I note that a high temp red roofing flashing suitable for steam pipes around 4 degrees was so expensive; it was dropped by the manufacturer for the lesser priced low temp grey silicone flashing which was anyway rated up to about 380 degree fro memory. There was little difference between red and grey material. I confess i've used the grey silicone sealant ; as i stated; with no degradation.
Agreed, I use generic plumber's silicone to seal mufflers onto bikes and cars exhausts, as well as bodged repairs. I wouldn't use it up near the exhaust ports, but anywhere south of that, it's just fine.
You can use 4 chopsticks one in each corner bolt hole in the differential to use as a guide when attaching the cover. It will make sure the pan goes on perfectly straight.
Genius
Oh my god this would’ve been way easier. I now know for next time. Thank you kind Lizard king
yeah thats an old school trick, used to do it with random sticks and twigs on the ground, or some pencils.
Good to see that someone is actually doing this properly. All other videos I have seen, people are smearing a thin layer of RTV around the cover flange. Then when the RTV is to thin they will wonder why the diff is leaking.
RedWhiteAndBlueVideo Thanks man! The goal is to teach people so they dont make that mistake!
Good video, however I would recommend to do the first round of torquing with 50% of the recommended torque. After 1-2 hours, run the final round of the remaining 50%. Never leaked a single seal for last 26 yrs I have been using this procedure.
Hi, I'm wondering if this would be the same application (let the sealant seat for 15minutes before putting the cover back) for the front timing gear cover? I've installed mine but oil started to leak on sides after some time :(
please advice and thank you in advance
@@jaysagrayum7448 Jay, did you ever get this worked out?
Permatex now makes a gear oil RTV gasket maker/sealant, especially for differentials. It's in a green tube. Available at most Auto Parts stores. About $15.
Specially formulated to withstand the harsh gear oil environment found in differentials and transfer cases
Specialty silicone does not break down against gear oil friction modifiers
Seeks and seals leak paths that cut gaskets cannot
Tested to Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) specifications to ensure complete sealing power
Sensor safe, non-toxic, and non-flammable
I love that you read the comments even in the first videos
I have never had any luck with rtv. Gonna have to try your instructions to see if I'm a winner.
Works every time!
Mine still leaks
We’re all winners on This channel!
All gasket makers and flange sealants need some time to cure before the assembly can be put back into service. Failure to wait the correct amount of time can compromise the integrity of your seal. Typically, RTVs require a minimum of two hours to set up and 24-hours to achieve the full cure that’s needed before adding fluids or returning the vehicle to service.
When you're done making a gasket just hop in and go for a drive bro it's all good
@@MrAuto727 Who farted bro?
Didn’t even know I found a Chrisfix video for this issue. Man you really cover a lot. Kudos
I put my rtv on and let it sit for 15-20 mins. Then i slammed it on and tightened it by guess estimates instantly. The rtv splurted out the sides but it doesn't leak.
Thanks for sharing!
ChrisFix Loctite 5922 is also a good product if you want to glue your paper gasket on.. But remember that the glue needs 24 hours to dry. Some people have used very thick bearing grease to glue the paper gasket into the part. It works as the grease just dries off and is squished away when you bolt on the part..
Ford M Garage w
haha, you wait 20mins? i just whack a good bead all round and put it on straight away. have done for over 10 years, never had a RTV seal fail.
Yeb, smear it on, and torque it down. Job done.
this is a great young man who knows his stuff...obviously he paid attention to someone knowledgeable and learned and made better
Jill Boles Thanks lot Jill! I do my best to teach others though my videos so they can hopefully learn, save money, and get the job done themselves!
can I use ketchup instead?
rodstartube Yes, as a matter of fact you can. One little tip about using ketchup though is that it wont help you any. Good luck, little buddy!
BBQ sauce works better.
I used mustard on mine and it worked great 👍🏼 now i need to replace my blown out rear end
Not recommended as it may cause hungriness
Someone needs likes.
I do this but I spread it thinner over the whole bolt area with my finger. Then I put the oem gasket on that, making sure to line the holes up, then let it dry face down on a piece of cardboard with some weight on top of it. Once that's dry I spread a thin layer on the opposite side of gasket, put pan on vehicle finger tight, then torque after 20 minutes. After 1 hour I add fluid and test drive. In the 30 years I've been doing this never had a single leak. In my opinion a lot of people that have leaks are doing this when it's too cold outside. Remember RTV stands for (room temperature vulcanization).
Nice job,have been watching your videos for some time now.However i have some concerns about the method.
In permatex products the only gasket maker that need some time to become tacky before assembly are the solvent based gasket makers.
The silicone RTV gasket makers all mention that assembly right after you spread the bead with normal pressure so as to for the RTV to spread and after ten minutes or one hour,(depends on the type)torque to specs.
The only exception is "permatex the right stuff" which have no cure time,just aplly assemble and torque and your good to go.
I used The Right Stuff (Permatex) to replace the cover with a new one that has a drain bolt with no issues. I did not have the holes properly aligned and had to move it around more than I would have liked but still no leaks. The Right Stuff has not let me down and I still have some left from the prior trans pan replacement. I did use Acetone to clean both surfaces and torqued the bolts to 25 ft lbs immediately after getting all bolts properly threaded.
4:25
Love your videos! They've helped me immensely several times.
Hate to nitpick, but you missed final torque of the 4 o'clock bolt. In the video, you never touched it because your star pattern is faulty and semi-random. Correct process, starting from your desired 6 o'clock position, would be 6, 12, 7, 1, 8, 2, 9, 3, 10, 4, 11 and finally 5 o'clock. Then you'd hit all 12 evenly and consistently.
4:25
EDIT: I assume that this has been pointed out already in 617 other comments, but I don't care to dig and also assume that the correct process wouldn't be mentioned as I have above. Thanks!
Thanks it was edited out by mistake. I torqued them all down in real life.
@@chrisfix I figured. Awesome videos.
Very helpful Vid, appreciate when folks give practical advice. Not sure why some people and some instructions, suggest putting a bead AROUND each bolt hole-to me this makes zero sense since going around the whole bolt hole does nothing to further the seal.
Cris simply the best.
Quito-Ecuador
2020
Thanks a lot!
Thanks to this video I was able to fix my valve cover leak I changed the gaskets 3 times with torque specs
Thanks for the vid. Did notice that you didn't torque the lower right hand side bolt, but you probably already knew that. 👍
Of course! I edited that out by mistake but it was torqued in real life!
Just saw that too and it was bugging me lol "Good, they're all torqued down" 👀
Seems all good in your procedure. Personally I would also loop it fully around the holes, not just the inside. Although I would close around the holes after I'd done the main run. Anyone else have thoughts on this ? Oh and for anyone with a lathe or know someone that does, I would get a couple of longer guide pins to pass straight through cover and then through the tapped holes and then press home the cover. Temporary studs fixed in the housing could work, but if you miss hit them on approach then your gonna have to fix that sealant smudge again.
If the silicone becomes visible from outside (like e.g. 4:09) to much has been used and it might also protrude inwards. As it is unclear if it can breake of and harm, to control if the job is well done the silicone might rather not be visible from outside at all. 1/4" seems to much. My differential is in the front and have a lower plate. I tend to do it like this 1) A circle of 1/16" all around and close to the holes for the bolts 2) Connection lines between these applications being from 1/16" (close to the holes) and up to 1/8" between the holes to compensate if the plate is a little warped.
- ChrisFix's videos are detailed and scientifical. In fact awesome, I learn a lot from him! But in this one it appears he had left room for a little bessermachen.
Anyway, thank you!
The good thing about your channel. Is the videos will always be useful!
Congratulations upcoming 4m subscribers
Finally someone who reads the instructions
Great video, really helpful. i was looking to know if I needed to put junk back together before or after curing - this video definitely answered that question, and I'm sure it answered plenty of other questions for other folks. This is what TH-cam is all about. Props to you, good sir.
using this video as a guide this morning. first time using liquid gasket on my cbr1000f. I used a paper one and it's now leaking. wish me luck!
You're always doing great work,Chris! Keep it up!
Wow thank you man! I installed a water pump with blue rtv gasket maker and I didn’t give it 15 min to dry up a little instead I installed it right away and I did do everything else like hand right and let sit for an hour and then torque it to spec, but then the next day when I added the coolant it leaked bad lol well now I know what I did wrong thank you so much for uploading these how to videos
Very nice video! I used the Hi temp silicone to seal my motocycle's crankcase! Thanks a lot
Shocker Ramirez Thanks man! Yea, that is a good use for RTV too!
Crazy watching this in 2023 and seeing just how far good ol' Christopher Fixopher has come
Just one point, I work in engine production, you shouldn't leave rtv 15 minutes to get tacky, you should fit it as soon as applied to get a full seal, we fit ours as soon as it's applied, just a future tip as over time you might get more leaks 🙂👍
Thanks for the tip. This process is what was taught to me by the makers of the RTV.
@@chrisfix maybe, that's the problem of my installation, I applied not enough, sealed it immediately and install poured oil right away. I will try your method. hope It will solve my problem.
Just a heads up for anyone doing this, Permatex makes a differential product. It comes in a GREEN bottle called “Gear Oil Gasket Maker” and it has even better oil and pressure resistance than the black. It’s not resistant to gas though so it’s good for differentials and transfer cases but not on the engine block. If you have an older vehicle with a leaking diff, a large diff, slip diff generating heat, venting issues… I would recommend the green.
thank goodness for videos like these
Still the best TH-cam channel
Going around both sides of the holes might prevent bending of the flange.
Thanks Chris top demo as always only one to show
the procedure properly
Great video! I find the easiest way is to put red Permatex on the cover, same with a valve cover. Then lay the gasket onto the Permatex, let it dry, then install. Never put Permatex between the gasket and engine, or in your case, the differential. Thanks for making and posting this video. Thumbs up and new sub.
With things like this you don't need torque, just tighten by hand and then just a bit 1/4 to 1/2 turn stopping when resistance becomes high.
Works on spark plugs (it's even in the instructions), so it works on most other things too that are under low stress.
You've assured me not buying a pre formed gasket, this stuff is cheaper and does the job.
Love the ultra black oil resistant. I also prefer to pre smear the RTV on the cover surface.
Clearanceman2 same here never have leaks when I pre smear
@@davidwasicek9869 smear on the pan or the metal where the pan will go?
@@BillSW either way but I prefer to apply to cover
@@davidwasicek9869 Hi, I purchased the ultra black since I have leaks all over now. Do you also wait 15minutes before putting in the cover or put it right away? I had a problem putting it right away, maybe the reason for the leak :(
Please advice and thank you in advance
Hey Chris my name is Chris also this was a helpful video on how to make a gasket out of RTV silicone my son was changing his oil well he turned the oil drain bolt to the right instead of turning it left so the oil pan has to come off of his toyota 4runner it stripped the bolt out.Thanks Chris
I wouldnt use high heat for a diff cover. Permatex "right stuff" only.
Best rtv out there is right stuff
@@christopherhendricks4369 Amen I've used the Right Stuff and not even a seep years later .
Right stuff is surprisingly superior.
Put some short studs in a few of the differential bolt holes and use them as alignment pins when you install the cover.....makes it easy to get it on perfectly straight.
I let mine sit overnight after the final tighten before adding fluid.
Thats the correct way to do it, I normaly just tight a bit by hand and then I wait 4h, after that I do the final tighten.
This video toturial very details for DYI, easy to understand and professional. 👍
You forgot to torque down one on the right, unless you did it off camera. But thanks for the informative video.
twistdshade Good eye. I torqued it down but edited it out by mistake lol. Glad the video was helpful! Definitely consider subscribing! New automotive "how to" videos every Thursday and most Mondays!
ChrisFix Subscribed. Keep up the good work!
twistdshade Great! Glad you subbed!
ChrisFix Hey if you ever get the chance, post some stuff about small engines. Single cylinder stuff like mopeds and lawn mowers. :) That's all I've been working on lately since the parts are so cheap and lots of folks have old broken down yard equipment collecting dust.
twistdshade That would be pretty cool! Good idea!
I googled "silicone instead of gasket" and who appeared? Mi amigo! Hello!!! of course! If I was going to pay for all the money I have saved with you, I owe you a brand new Corvette! Gracias Chris!
Would I be able to use it in conjunction with the actual gasket on my oil pan?
Excellent video. Just a small tip for European/JDM cars with tight tolerances - make the bead 1-2mm. Or less than half of what Chris is showing here.
A good trick you can do is put the RTV on the hub instead of the cover and it makes it a whole lot easier to put the cover
Thanks for the trick!
thanks now I know where ive been going wrong and tightening (pool multiport) too much too soon.due! without helpful dudes like you the net would be a poorer place...
"take your tiiime" *speeds up* 1:32
The magic of editing
Unfortunately you miss one bolt Chris, but it was happened 5 years ago... And now you're super pro! 👍👍👍👍👍 I always love all of your tutorial... Great job!
RTV- Room-Temperature-Vulcanization silicone. As the author does not say what it is.
Because noone gives a shit.
This video helped me get the job done myself!!! Thanks you sir!!
Hey chris could you help with making a video about fixing a oil gallery gasket on most v6 engines like a g35 or 370z
If I get a G35 I can make a video on it!
Nice video. The manufacturer recommends going all the way around the bolt holes.
Yes sir! That is the way I have always done it..
I was a little concerned as to why you didn't seem as energetic, but then saw this was posted in 2013.
Yea it's an oldie haha
I didn't read the channel but I was thinking "Must be a ChrisFix Video, I'll watch it later"... I was gladly surprised at the end of the video that I was on ChrisFix already! Thanks a lot again for sharing your knowledge! From Chile
1:55 that is some amazing ketchup
Just watched this video to do my oil pan which has no gasket. Very helpful.
Darren Sinclair Awesome Darren! Glad the video was helpful!
I always put a circle around the bolt holes too.
You don’t have to. It’s a waste. The bolt holes don’t have fluid in them. It’s not a bad thing but just a waste. Thanks for sharing!
@@chrisfix There's no water there, until it gets trapped by gravity in the convenient little wells we just made, along with some dirt. Better to give it a nice little roof.
As long as the proper differential oil is used the sealant will do instead of a gasket, however some people pour ATF into differentials which can dissolve silicone based sealers.
Great videos man I learn alot from you!
Thanks man! Glad you are learning! This stuff is good to know.
ChrisFix Yeah you're pretty good at explaining things, clear and concise. Do you have any fuel line/top engine cleaning videos?
Calvin Harris
I dont have any of those videos but I can make them (I always look for suggestions on what videos my subscribers want). By fuel line /top end cleaning, do you mean with a cleaner like sea foam? How do you know you need to clean it?
I just did this job today. When I went to install using the blue rtv, i read they recommend letting it cure 24 hours before adding fluid' I needed the car back on the road so I went to the store and got an old fashioned felpro gasket. good to go with no waiting. I found it interesting that they don't come with a gasket from the factory but are available aftermarket.
Can I use this to seal glass, plastic and rubber to avoid air leaking into a container?
+Duncan Ng Yes
What kind of drugs are you storing?
silicone sealant will do just fine for that and they're cheaper
I bet you'll never get it open again
Thanks for the clear presentation. Good video.
Hi, I did exactly what you did in the video, waited the hour to tighten, when I tightened the bolts more goo was oozing out? I thought waiting the hour would of set it off
Hi temp RTV is for exhaust. You dont need it for a diff cover. Ultra black or grey will work just fine.
At the time I thought with the off-roading I thought it would get hot, but either way this is compatible so no problem
True this is a very proper procedure but when you're changing axle bearings on flat rate, you learn that rtv just ain't that picky in the real world. It's hard to use too little rtv and no big deal if you use a little too much. Smear it on, run down the bolts and let her roll.
haha yea I guess flat rate work needs speed and as long as it works it works.
ChrisFix, buy the way, didn't mean to come across as a jerk. There's lots of good stuff in your videos. Take care man.
Wish there was a mechanic like you where I live.
I've done this about five or six times and not a single one of them has lasted over a year. It'll last long enough for your gasket to ship to your house if you don't have it.
THE NHRA GUY #49 do you use the exact method shown?
One of the best youtube Machanic 🔧🔩💪🙏
Great, but include some info about ambient temperatures. They can greatly effect curing times
My 1988 Suzuki Samurai doesn't use an oil pan gasket at all. It is like that from the factory. Only rtv. I could never get a good answer on instruction on how to properly use rtv and the diagram in my service manual is old and black and white so you can't properly see the bead at all. Your video has helped alot.
Valuable knowledge
I have cut heads off bolts to use as Guidepins. Great Job!
I was going to mention that too but you beat me to it. It really makes it easier and less mess to clean up.
when to add the oil after an hour or after 24hrs
its safe to add oil after an hour. The sealant just doesn't fully cure for about 24 hrs
The way he requests for likes and to subscribe is so polite.
Can i use this on my valve cover?
I use a lubelocker cover gasket you can re-use them for years no mess you can put the oil in right away no more scraping gaskets.
No need to wait an hour if you use the correct RTV. All factory built assemblies using RTV, and no gasket, and simply torqued to spec and moved down the assembly line.
+ArchimedeanEye And factory assemblies use a much thinner, tightly-controlled line of sealant.
AHH man the little things are so important: clean with brake cleaner, constant bead of RTV inside of bolt holes, leave for 15 mins before hand tighten, then torque spec after 1 hour. Leave for 24 hours before use. The can has no instructions on it at all! Just temperature specs and what it is. Thanks for the video.
Youve used this product before?