I like this guy because he leaves a tiny bit of area for you/us, the learning tech, to figure out the exact technique and finesse required. It keeps the mind in engineer mode, instead of just learning word for word like an AI robot.
thank you, I truly appreciate nice comments like this, I do not want anyone to do what I do..... I want them to start by doing what I do and then find their own way. my way is not the right way, its my way based on teachings and experiences.
ASE master tech here as well. I have uses untra black years. On timing covers and other large covers I've always used my finger to spread the rtv out and wiped any excess away from the inside (where the oil is) before assembly. Never had any leaks doing that. You are 100% correct, a tube will last a long time. A dab will do ya!
I do the same, never been a problem for me, it makes me feel better knowing the rtv is going to fully seal, instead of relying on the mush to fill in the gaps
Thank you thank you thank you , I couldn't get my " mechanic " to believe me that sometimes less is more until I showed him your video. Great demonstration
Ooops... I am one of those who used METAL Razor Blades. :( I gotta say I do recall having snags. I went over it with a smooth sanding paper (probably another no no). I wished I would have seen this video before having to remove the gasket that I can't get off this 1980 Kawasaki KZ750 Motorcycle's oil pan. Plus I don't have a lift to work properly underneath, so being upside down for hours is painful. I'm almost done and have the surfaces as smooth as I can get it. I've been searching how to place RTV correctly before I mess that up and I ran into this video. I will make sure to make the bead as you explained. I hope I don't have any issues because of my removal methods :(
@1:00 also something very important to note about those Roloc discs. They contain oxides/abrasives the same found in sand paper. Using those on any open engine/case work will load what ever you are working with abrasive particles. These particles are especially bad in engine oil and can cause bearing failure. Using the RTV Dissolver and plastic scrappers are perfect. You can use Roloc discs but only if you can use a parts washer/clean the parts really good before re-assembly.
@@tsslaporte the Scotch Brite is the abrasive itself, there is no extra abrasive like a flapper wheel. You have to use common sense, just like if you're using your method with RTV dissolver. Letting that & old scrapped off RTV into the engine can block oil pick-up screen or plug oil galleries. I typically cover the area with a rag & scrape most, then final clean with scotch Brite wheel & brake clean.
@@D-Mayor All Scotch Brite products contain abrasives, it's not something that can be avoided and parts should be cleaned appropriately if used. "Thin green general purpose cleaning and scouring hand pad, made of high quality synthetic fiber forming an open textured non-woven, abrasive evenly dispersed throughout and bonded to the web with a durable resin."
@@tsslaporte engine failure due to oil pick-up plugged with RTV scrappings, care must be used to avoid debris entering engine. Not to mention the solvent dissolving adjacent seals that are not being replaced. Common sense is key.
Pliers to squeeze and roll the tube while you go, will too often put tears/cuts in the tube then it's dried out the next time you try to use it. Just cut the nozzle slightly bigger, and take your time as it is only a minute difference either way. I find it easier to just push near the back of the tube and not worry about trying to get the tube perfectly flat/rolled during application, instead wait till you're done, lay the tube on a flat surface, and just roll a hard round object from the tail of the tube, up it till the RTV is filling the top and coming out a little. You want it to come out a little so when it forms a dry plug, that seals the tube then you just pull that plug off the next time you use it.
wow..... I've been wrenching in my garage/driveway for almost 30 years and your "post-it note" and "finger spread" examples were great teaches. (Light bulb went off- FINALLY!) years and years of doing it wrong and sometimes getting lucky. Makes sense now with your visuals why so little is recommended. Much appreciated all you effort in creating your content. Liked and New Subscriber 👍
2 huge issues in the automotive world. 1- none of us are taught correctly. 2- none of us communicate correctly. We all somehow just figure it out as we go 😂
@@MasterTechLou 100% correct. BTW, I used your teach this weekend replacing an oil pan. Practiced on a piece of cardboard to get my strips the correct size and to understand the flow rate. It was scary putting it together with such little amount of RTV product, but in the end, it's holding ...no leaks, and it's the cleanest looking seal I've ever made! Who would thunk?! Thanks again.
Thank you!!! Excellent video and tips. Watched two other videos prior and they were very cavalier about surface cleaning, silicone application, and machined surfaces. You explained very well the DOs and DON'Ts of application. I needed that to mate the two aluminum surfaces that I am about to assemble.
Great video. I had the oil pan sealed twice and its still leaks through from few locations because of incorrect application of the sealant and because of over-sanding the aluminum pan Really great video ! Thanks !
First time I heard of over sanding a pan, as long as it’s flat and theres adequate flange thickness to hold oil it should be good. The filter might not fit or be right up against the bottom but that’s extreme
If you really want to see how much to use, just look up a "factory assembly" video and watch the robot put on a little bead. It's typically about the size of the straw on a WD40 can, or the little white tube of a Q-tip. Not much bigger than 1mm in diameter- maybe 2mm's max.
Use Hylomar Blue. If you use RTV a great method is is to use a foam roller and spread the RTV out on a sheet of wax paper then use the roller and roll it until the foam is even spread with RTV. Then run the roller over the surface you need sealed. it will spread an even thin amount everywhere perfectly. The proper amount should allow you to see thru it once spread out.
Man i just did my trans oil for the first time the other day and im proud to say i inuited a bit of this. Kept a small, probably closer to 3mm bead nice and tidy all the way around. Used a plastic putty knife to removed all the old shit. Did a final clean with some brake cleaner - a recommendation from a trusted friend and bolted her back on with new filter, gaskets oiled. Measured the amount of fluid removed and replaced exact amount. Only thing i got lazy on was checking the fluid level at operating temp post-op. Mazda CX 5 requires removal of air box to get to the dipstick which is bolted in from the top. I just got lazy and said fuck it, i measured. 😅
Very useful. I know I need to work on bead work even for some adhesive work that I do. I love your explanations and demos. I wonder if I can get some washers to practice (putting the washers on a nut/bolt, put my bead on, then tighten it up to see if my bead was appropriate or not based on the ooze). I'll find a way to practice somehow...before having the guts to do it on an engine. :) It was a short video, but every second of it was useful. Thanks!
That permatex rtv remover didn't work in the 80s, and still doesn't. There are the blue or orange fiber brushes you can put on a drill, or brass brushes but plastic scrapers, razors and wd40 are sadly the best way. Good video.
Excellent explanation and demonstration. Would have liked to see how much you squirt out on the sealing surface before you joined the parts. Thanks for the valuable chemical tips!
@@MasterTechLou OK, thanks. I just installed the front cover on an '07 4-Runner 4.0L engine. Used about 3/16" bead and it squished out perfectly! Used Permatex Optimum Black and Gray around the water openings. Finger tightened and let sit 1 hour then torqued. I think it needs to sit finger tight for an hour to absorb oxygen to cure property. Anyway, thanx for your informative demonstration and commentary!
Good video two improvements would be covering proper product sealer selection and using a clear flexaglass plate to show the excess squeeze out and proper torque to show and tell . Clean and ppprepp
Awesome straight forward video giving us the right information to get the job done the right way. Thank you so much for sharing your professional knowledge with us all.
Well, you do make a gasket as a matter of fact -if it is an oil sump for example - and you will realise it when the internal pressure blows out the seal and oil leaks out.. The key is not to torq the bolts immediately, you wait at least an hour after finger tighten the bolts-you stop as soon as you see the seal coming out between the surfaces, and I say it again : you wait an hour and then you can torq the bolts. Ask me how I know it...
The Audi 2.0L lower timing cover has a groove in the lip. I've seen people apply sealant in the groove. Wouldn't it be more logical to seal outside the groove, let the groove catch overflow on the inside? Does anyone know what the correct procedure is?
Can I ask a stupid question please? if you're working on a corvette (a well known and I presume well stocked for parts brand) why wouldn't you buy and fit replacement gaskets rather than silicone? I'm probably just don't understand - but I'd love to know for my own education please - many thanks and great video!
Its not stupid and youre very detailed:) I opted for silicone because the customer drifts the car and I personally preferred silicone instead of a paper gasket due to the age and how the aluminum looked.
Hey guys relax a bit. Seeing a few comments on clogging up oil galleries and such with rtv. However those oil filters are amazing things. The only way you get to clogging up the engine is if you have so much stuff in the filter that the filter bypass activates. I think best case scenario is if you let it cure properly into a hard solid. If the filter can catch broken off engine bits, I'd think rtv should be no problem 🤔
Good thought but what you are missing is that almost all newer engines use rtv for everything, and if used on the top end it will clog passages and drains where the cams are at and vvt solenoids. Sure thats solid advice on a chevy 350 from the 70’s, but these newer engines have a lot going on. And rtv issues is the reason I made this video ❤️
Here’s one… new water pump, new water pump backing plate (it’s on a Delorean and doesn’t mate up to the block), paper gasket. Both surfaces new and flat… to seal or not to?
not rtv, if anything I would use indian head gasket , its a shellac, if spelled right, i have no idea what that means haha but its an old school, verify thin, so NO you do NOT have to use anything but the paper, BUT due to the age of the car and the parts which most likely are not oem, I would feel more comfortable adding shellac. its smears on with like a q tip kind of a head, you will see,. just a gentle coating, should be good .
Lou, Thank you for creating these videos! It is interesting how I came across you on youtube. You had worked on a Mercedes C280 I owned previously when you were a Suds. That has been some time ago. Now I purchased an SL550 and here you are again! Love the universe : ) I am in central IL. and would like to link up with you again if possible?
Why not make the two surfaces touch and wait until the RTV hardens slightly to reduce the spread and then torque it? Would you still have excessive RTV enter the transmission?
If you think about what you are sayin you are now tellin me you want hard rtv between two surfaces. Only way to reduce spread is to reduce rtv amount 😉
So Mercedes gave american techs a class on how to reseal an engine because all of the engines that were being turned in to warranty failed because of excess silicone. a warranty claim would be denied if the tech didnt take that class. It was kinda embarrassing to learn that we go large, on everything we do haha.
Rtv does have a shelf life so I dont really reuse rtv tubes unless its within weeks. But even then ive usually only had to clear the top opening or the cap so fresh can come out of the tube.
@@MasterTechLou i use rtv about twice a week and everytime its always dried up under the cap and always needing to try unplugging the tube. Capping it tightly doesnt work. Theres got to be a solution.
Good question, I don’t think it matters cause if you put too much depending on where, the damage is already done. Filter will catch what it can, and oil pickup will clog. Good question tho. Thanks!
@@MasterTechLou i have read that it will mix with the oil and although it's harmless unlike dust silicon, the oil in the engine while repair should be changed
@@mm-il8dg if its hard on the outside its hard on the inside. Which is why you should give it time to cure. Im not sayin your wrong by any means. But ive never had to worry about changing oil right away. Only if cleaning old silicone from an engine and getting excessive debris.
Not really a reason to. Also to me you want it there to stop anything getting into the cracks if any, lets say you wipe it off, what if it pulls out any sealant that you need in between the surfaces allowing debris in. Its just not common to worry about the little bit that squeezes out. It doesnt hurt anything .
So question, I'm gonna do a transmission pan gasket on a 99 Camry. Came with gasket and filter and I've read on a book and Haynes repair manual that the gasket is enough by itself to seal, but I feel like including some gasket maker to hold the gasket is that fine or will I get problems in the future?.
Gaskets are fine alone. As long as the pan is flush and the holes arent dented in . I usually run a hammer over the holes to make sure theyre flat if the pan is metal. If torqued the right way a gasket is all you need.
You dont add silicon to rubber seals. Theres no reason to. Rubber seals usually stick up 1-2mm higher than the surface and squeeze when tightened. There are rare instances where you would want to. Like if there’s two mating surfaces across the seal then you add a dab of silicone to make up for the imperfections.
No, you apply the sealant and then usually have about 15 minutes to mount the parts and then it takes a full 24 hours to cure. I always squirt some on a piece of paper as well as a test so I know that when it gets hard that means I can fill the parts with fluid then
Good video. Can you tell me if l should use rtv on a water pump gasket made of steel with some sort of felt-like coating on it ?. Thank you in advance.
Thanks! And absolutely not. If any gasket need’s silicone added its ones that cover two different surfaces. Like timing cover to cylinder head. But the mls gasket you have is all thats needed. I know we tend to think “surely thats not enough “ but what came off is whats been keeping it sealed this whole time. Those can be called multi layered seals MLS. But its truly all thats needed. If anything to ever add, Indian head shellac is the way to go. But anytime you need to add something it will be shown in the work instructions. Hope my ramblings help 🥴. Basically my answer is no. But I hope your surface is not damaged by any means.
@@MasterTechLou Thank you for the detailed response. Somehow it just doesn't "look" like it will make a water tight seal. But I'm going to resist my urge to run a bead of rtv around it :)
@@MasterTechLou It's a 2008 Sonata 3.3. I don't have it yet, I'm just preparing to do the job for a friend. So l got an Aisin pump and it came with the gasket l mentioned. Unfortunately that gasket was kinked on one end due to poor packing - l straightened pretty well l think but that also made me want to put the rtv on it. I would send it back to rockauto but I've returned other things recently so I'm thinking they might feel I'm abusing their free return policy.
@@wonderwalls3565 collateral damage 🤷🏼♂️😂. I remove the nozzle and push the hardened stuff backwards to continue using the tube but there is not really a good way to salvage whats in the nozzle. Least not that I have found or really cared about.
Thanks for the quick reply and helpful video. I’m trying to open up a diff that’s sealed with Permatex 81182 gasket maker. It’s similar to ultra black. What solvent do you use to open the diff with?
I use mercedes however it’s basically loctite with mercedes name on it. Black silicone is basically black silicone. In my experience. But use a brand name.
@@MasterTechLou okay thanks for the quick reply. I removed my oil pan from my c250... it was the hardest job I've ever done...I don't want to put the wrong sealant and have to drop the subframe again... talk about a headache.
@@stemulatedstudents I hate oil pans upside down…… pull the oil filter. Let engine drain and drip as long as you can. Worst part is tryin to put oil pan back with oil dripping
@@MasterTechLou lol it's been a week so I'm sure it's pretty dry...I've just been apprehensive of which sealant to use...is there an alternative to loctite sf 7200? I can't find it anywhere near me.
That depends on the application, almost always it goes on the inside because you’re keeping the oil from leaking outwards. But it also depends on what your sealing because sometimes oil can come from all around the hole. There’s usually instructions on whatever you are sealing as to the path the sealant should be applied. That was a great question. It’s just not a one-size-fits-all answer.
Safe? sure, but it depends , if you are using ONLY rtv? does the car call for a gasket? if so, we do apply small dabs depending on the car and head. but we never make a gasket alone from rtv UNLESS its a machined surface.
I've never bead it and leave it. I bead. Then use my finger to spread it. That way I can determine if it is too much or too little. Id rather be able to pull excess off before it squeezes.. and a chunk breaks off. And cause damage.. yes to much rtv can Fk sht up
😂😂 “To seal or not to seal, that is the question “ I just got annoyed with seeing some of the things we see day to day. And figured I would share my experience with this. Hope it helps.
Good question, one thing I may not have shown, is, once I bolt the parts together, I then squirt some rtv on a piece of paper. I check it periodically, once its tacky and getting solid, I then fill fluids. I use that as my gauge. it actually sets up faster in the presence of air , or lack of air, depending on the sealant used. But Ive never waited more than an hour to add fluids. Not that I can remember.
Thats what she said. Wait that doesnt apply. Back in the day, silicone was a replacement for gaskets . So you would goop the heck out of it. But now everything is machined dang near perfect so we are only filling in the gaps. You should see any dodge transmission pan 🫣🥴🤮 its crazy how much is used on all the ones I see.
You need a Valco Cincinnati Tube-Grip. Makes it much easier to apply the RTV.
Oh….my……god…… never stop learning!!! Thank you for sharing! I will pin this post! ❤️
Agreed I keep 3 in the bottom of my roll cart. AWESOME!
Brilliant, my arthritis in my hands always flared up when squeezing the RTV out of these tubes!
I have 2 in service truck and 2 in shop they are game changers for silicone ECT .
I’m doing a oil pan on my civic can I use ultra black or should I get Honda bond also do I need to put some on both sides on pan and engine
I like this guy because he leaves a tiny bit of area for you/us, the learning tech, to figure out the exact technique and finesse required. It keeps the mind in engineer mode, instead of just learning word for word like an AI robot.
thank you, I truly appreciate nice comments like this, I do not want anyone to do what I do..... I want them to start by doing what I do and then find their own way. my way is not the right way, its my way based on teachings and experiences.
ASE master tech here as well. I have uses untra black years. On timing covers and other large covers I've always used my finger to spread the rtv out and wiped any excess away from the inside (where the oil is) before assembly. Never had any leaks doing that. You are 100% correct, a tube will last a long time. A dab will do ya!
"Master tech" 😂😂😂
@@AntonadiasLongfootthat’s likely his title, not a self proclaimed one goofy ah
I do the same, never been a problem for me, it makes me feel better knowing the rtv is going to fully seal, instead of relying on the mush to fill in the gaps
@@robertgarduno937goofy ahh. “Goofy ahh” goofy ahh
@@2004hondacivichybrid I agree
Thank you thank you thank you , I couldn't get my " mechanic " to believe me that sometimes less is more until I showed him your video. Great demonstration
Ooops... I am one of those who used METAL Razor Blades. :( I gotta say I do recall having snags. I went over it with a smooth sanding paper (probably another no no). I wished I would have seen this video before having to remove the gasket that I can't get off this 1980 Kawasaki KZ750 Motorcycle's oil pan. Plus I don't have a lift to work properly underneath, so being upside down for hours is painful. I'm almost done and have the surfaces as smooth as I can get it. I've been searching how to place RTV correctly before I mess that up and I ran into this video. I will make sure to make the bead as you explained. I hope I don't have any issues because of my removal methods :(
I’m an ASE Master Technician
thank you for this outstanding video
This video is excellent.
Probably not many people will need this information, but for those who do -- friggin lifesaver.
Almost 90k views I would say everyone needs this type of information ❤️ thank you for finding it useful!
Thanks for the pliers tip. I've always struggled to apply rtv because of the pain on my fingers caused by pressing the tube for a while.
@1:00 also something very important to note about those Roloc discs. They contain oxides/abrasives the same found in sand paper. Using those on any open engine/case work will load what ever you are working with abrasive particles. These particles are especially bad in engine oil and can cause bearing failure. Using the RTV Dissolver and plastic scrappers are perfect. You can use Roloc discs but only if you can use a parts washer/clean the parts really good before re-assembly.
Use the Scotch Brite pad instead, there's no abrasive to fall off.
@@D-Mayor all Scotch Brite pads have abrasives loaded into them. It's not safe to use them either
@@tsslaporte the Scotch Brite is the abrasive itself, there is no extra abrasive like a flapper wheel. You have to use common sense, just like if you're using your method with RTV dissolver. Letting that & old scrapped off RTV into the engine can block oil pick-up screen or plug oil galleries. I typically cover the area with a rag & scrape most, then final clean with scotch Brite wheel & brake clean.
@@D-Mayor All Scotch Brite products contain abrasives, it's not something that can be avoided and parts should be cleaned appropriately if used. "Thin green general purpose
cleaning and scouring hand pad, made of high quality synthetic fiber forming an open textured non-woven, abrasive
evenly dispersed throughout and bonded to the web with a durable resin."
@@tsslaporte engine failure due to oil pick-up plugged with RTV scrappings, care must be used to avoid debris entering engine.
Not to mention the solvent dissolving adjacent seals that are not being replaced.
Common sense is key.
Pliers to squeeze and roll the tube while you go, will too often put tears/cuts in the tube then it's dried out the next time you try to use it. Just cut the nozzle slightly bigger, and take your time as it is only a minute difference either way. I find it easier to just push near the back of the tube and not worry about trying to get the tube perfectly flat/rolled during application, instead wait till you're done, lay the tube on a flat surface, and just roll a hard round object from the tail of the tube, up it till the RTV is filling the top and coming out a little. You want it to come out a little so when it forms a dry plug, that seals the tube then you just pull that plug off the next time you use it.
Very good, and practical information. Never thought about plastic blades and gasket remover. Will add these to my tool arsenal. Thanks.
wow..... I've been wrenching in my garage/driveway for almost 30 years and your "post-it note" and "finger spread" examples were great teaches. (Light bulb went off- FINALLY!) years and years of doing it wrong and sometimes getting lucky. Makes sense now with your visuals why so little is recommended. Much appreciated all you effort in creating your content. Liked and New Subscriber 👍
2 huge issues in the automotive world. 1- none of us are taught correctly.
2- none of us communicate correctly.
We all somehow just figure it out as we go 😂
@@MasterTechLou 100% correct. BTW, I used your teach this weekend replacing an oil pan. Practiced on a piece of cardboard to get my strips the correct size and to understand the flow rate. It was scary putting it together with such little amount of RTV product, but in the end, it's holding ...no leaks, and it's the cleanest looking seal I've ever made! Who would thunk?! Thanks again.
Thank you!!! Excellent video and tips. Watched two other videos prior and they were very cavalier about surface cleaning, silicone application, and machined surfaces. You explained very well the DOs and DON'Ts of application. I needed that to mate the two aluminum surfaces that I am about to assemble.
Great video. I had the oil pan sealed twice and its still leaks through from few locations because of incorrect application of the sealant and because of over-sanding the aluminum pan
Really great video !
Thanks !
Oh man sorry to hear! Thank you so much for the nice comments. I hope it works out for you! Lou
First time I heard of over sanding a pan, as long as it’s flat and theres adequate flange thickness to hold oil it should be good. The filter might not fit or be right up against the bottom but that’s extreme
What a pleasant surprise. Your video was really good. Lots of good information.
Wonderful 🎉, every second of the video is worth watching and filled up with important information
Came here to learn where to apply the rtv for the bolts as a hobbiest and was not disappointed!
I needed this vid last week. Thanks Lou
Sorry I’m late! 😕. Hope it helps for the future. 🤷🏼♂️
Thanks. One of the most thorough minded videos I've seen so far. I'll be looking at more of your videos 1st from this point if I need any more help.
Excellent video. Thank you for the excellent tips. I must confess to previously laying on the RTV like a plumber.. Never again..
If you really want to see how much to use, just look up a "factory assembly" video and watch the robot put on a little bead. It's typically about the size of the straw on a WD40 can, or the little white tube of a Q-tip. Not much bigger than 1mm in diameter- maybe 2mm's max.
Our spec is 2mm +/-0.5 mm
you make a very convincing argument
thank you for sharing your thoughts
My experience is based on trials, tribulations and training. I appreciate the feedback
Great info. I just did a 8.8 rear end and used ultra Grey and big bread and it's still not 100% dry because i used to much
Wow thank you, I'm glad I watched this. You just saved me from making an avoidable and expensive mistake.
Use Hylomar Blue. If you use RTV a great method is is to use a foam roller and spread the RTV out on a sheet of wax paper then use the roller and roll it until the foam is even spread with RTV. Then run the roller over the surface you need sealed. it will spread an even thin amount everywhere perfectly. The proper amount should allow you to see thru it once spread out.
Man i just did my trans oil for the first time the other day and im proud to say i inuited a bit of this. Kept a small, probably closer to 3mm bead nice and tidy all the way around. Used a plastic putty knife to removed all the old shit. Did a final clean with some brake cleaner - a recommendation from a trusted friend and bolted her back on with new filter, gaskets oiled.
Measured the amount of fluid removed and replaced exact amount.
Only thing i got lazy on was checking the fluid level at operating temp post-op. Mazda CX 5 requires removal of air box to get to the dipstick which is bolted in from the top. I just got lazy and said fuck it, i measured. 😅
Get the Valco tube grip, works excellent!
Very useful. I know I need to work on bead work even for some adhesive work that I do. I love your explanations and demos. I wonder if I can get some washers to practice (putting the washers on a nut/bolt, put my bead on, then tighten it up to see if my bead was appropriate or not based on the ooze). I'll find a way to practice somehow...before having the guts to do it on an engine. :) It was a short video, but every second of it was useful. Thanks!
That permatex rtv remover didn't work in the 80s, and still doesn't. There are the blue or orange fiber brushes you can put on a drill, or brass brushes but plastic scrapers, razors and wd40 are sadly the best way. Good video.
Felicidades, es de los mejores videos ke he visto para la aplicación del rtv (silicon), saludos desde Mexicali BC.
Great informative video. Many thanks for sharing your expertise with us. Regards from Sydney Australia
Excellent explanation and demonstration. Would have liked to see how much you squirt out on the sealing surface before you joined the parts. Thanks for the valuable chemical tips!
I used almost the same bead as the small bead in the notepad trick. about 2mm thick. thats what we are taught through mercedes.
@@MasterTechLou
OK, thanks. I just installed the front cover on an '07 4-Runner 4.0L engine. Used about 3/16" bead and it squished out perfectly! Used Permatex Optimum Black and Gray around the water openings. Finger tightened and let sit 1 hour then torqued. I think it needs to sit finger tight for an hour to absorb oxygen to cure property. Anyway, thanx for your informative demonstration and commentary!
Thank you for a highly informative lesson👍👍
Thanks Lou for the videos you made
Good video two improvements would be covering proper product sealer selection and using a clear flexaglass plate to show the excess squeeze out and proper torque to show and tell . Clean and ppprepp
Thank you for getting right to the point!
Never new about plastic razor blades and gasket remover thank you for that video 🫵
ive always had great success with dawn dishsoap to get rtv off, i just mix it in a bottle and spray it on.. then just blade it off.
Great video, didn't know they made plastic razors!
Thank you for your knowledge and support
Thanks for the great video! Informative and useful!
Awesome straight forward video giving us the right information to get the job done the right way. Thank you so much for sharing your professional knowledge with us all.
Very helpful tip bud, thanks for info👊
Well, you do make a gasket as a matter of fact -if it is an oil sump for example - and you will realise it when the internal pressure blows out the seal and oil leaks out.. The key is not to torq the bolts immediately, you wait at least an hour after finger tighten the bolts-you stop as soon as you see the seal coming out between the surfaces, and I say it again : you wait an hour and then you can torq the bolts. Ask me how I know it...
The Audi 2.0L lower timing cover has a groove in the lip. I've seen people apply sealant in the groove. Wouldn't it be more logical to seal outside the groove, let the groove catch overflow on the inside? Does anyone know what the correct procedure is?
Can I ask a stupid question please? if you're working on a corvette (a well known and I presume well stocked for parts brand) why wouldn't you buy and fit replacement gaskets rather than silicone? I'm probably just don't understand - but I'd love to know for my own education please - many thanks and great video!
Its not stupid and youre very detailed:) I opted for silicone because the customer drifts the car and I personally preferred silicone instead of a paper gasket due to the age and how the aluminum looked.
@@MasterTechLou interesting. Thanks. 👍
I will only use recommended methods, or Anaerobic sealant and only a very thin layer at that.
glue for the crankcase that is filled with the crankshaft, do you suggest using silicone or liquid sir? And what brand of glue is good, sir?
Excellent tutorial! Plastic razor blades??? Never knew!! Amazon right now…
Hey guys relax a bit. Seeing a few comments on clogging up oil galleries and such with rtv. However those oil filters are amazing things. The only way you get to clogging up the engine is if you have so much stuff in the filter that the filter bypass activates. I think best case scenario is if you let it cure properly into a hard solid. If the filter can catch broken off engine bits, I'd think rtv should be no problem 🤔
Good thought but what you are missing is that almost all newer engines use rtv for everything, and if used on the top end it will clog passages and drains where the cams are at and vvt solenoids. Sure thats solid advice on a chevy 350 from the 70’s, but these newer engines have a lot going on. And rtv issues is the reason I made this video ❤️
awesome video! thank you soo much for the useful information. i defiantly added to much rtv on my oil pan for my honda haha
Your right, you can't compress a liquid, (in a closed container). But you can compress the hell out of gasket maker on a sealing surface.
Here’s one… new water pump, new water pump backing plate (it’s on a Delorean and doesn’t mate up to the block), paper gasket. Both surfaces new and flat… to seal or not to?
not rtv, if anything I would use indian head gasket , its a shellac, if spelled right, i have no idea what that means haha but its an old school, verify thin, so NO you do NOT have to use anything but the paper, BUT due to the age of the car and the parts which most likely are not oem, I would feel more comfortable adding shellac. its smears on with like a q tip kind of a head, you will see,. just a gentle coating, should be good .
Fantastic video! Thank you
Thank you!
Lou, Thank you for creating these videos! It is interesting how I came across you on youtube. You had worked on a Mercedes C280 I owned previously when you were a Suds. That has been some time ago. Now I purchased an SL550 and here you are again! Love the universe : ) I am in central IL. and would like to link up with you again if possible?
Ah! A fellow manifester! You can find me at detail Peoria. 🙌
@@MasterTechLou Awesome! I will slide by next week. I look forward to seeing you again!
Why not make the two surfaces touch and wait until the RTV hardens slightly to reduce the spread and then torque it? Would you still have excessive RTV enter the transmission?
If you think about what you are sayin you are now tellin me you want hard rtv between two surfaces. Only way to reduce spread is to reduce rtv amount 😉
Master Tech Lou ? will that cleaner remove the left over RTV gasket maker left in the cone tip ?
@@FUNKBOOGIE1 it could yes , it softens the silicone. We usually just unscrew the tip and push it out backwards
I once saw a Lotus engine with a cam destroyed by a 1/4" square piece of RTV that got loose in the engine.
So Mercedes gave american techs a class on how to reseal an engine because all of the engines that were being turned in to warranty failed because of excess silicone. a warranty claim would be denied if the tech didnt take that class. It was kinda embarrassing to learn that we go large, on everything we do haha.
I bought a new engine water pump that came with a gasket, is it fine to apply sealer on both sides for good measure?
@@LewisFoster2024 no
How do u keep the rtv from drying in the tube? Recapping it doesnt work.
Rtv does have a shelf life so I dont really reuse rtv tubes unless its within weeks. But even then ive usually only had to clear the top opening or the cap so fresh can come out of the tube.
@@MasterTechLou i use rtv about twice a week and everytime its always dried up under the cap and always needing to try unplugging the tube. Capping it tightly doesnt work. Theres got to be a solution.
Before watching this video I would have used too much of a bead. Thanks for the education.
Can this be used to as a gasket sealant for thermostat housing?
Thermostat housings either use paper seals or rubber. There is never a need for silicone in my experience.
Well explained, but what about engine oil and filter intervals after rtv use? Thanks you
Good question, I don’t think it matters cause if you put too much depending on where, the damage is already done. Filter will catch what it can, and oil pickup will clog. Good question tho. Thanks!
@@MasterTechLou i have read that it will mix with the oil and although it's harmless unlike dust silicon, the oil in the engine while repair should be changed
@@mm-il8dg if its hard on the outside its hard on the inside. Which is why you should give it time to cure. Im not sayin your wrong by any means. But ive never had to worry about changing oil right away. Only if cleaning old silicone from an engine and getting excessive debris.
I wish I saw this video yesterday.
Is there some reason for not cleaning up excess on outside or is it just preference? Thks..jc
Not really a reason to. Also to me you want it there to stop anything getting into the cracks if any, lets say you wipe it off, what if it pulls out any sealant that you need in between the surfaces allowing debris in. Its just not common to worry about the little bit that squeezes out. It doesnt hurt anything .
@@MasterTechLou Got it..thks
Great information.
But about every aluminum part ive ever rtv’d has been all kinds of scratched up and dinged on the sealing surfaces,.
So question, I'm gonna do a transmission pan gasket on a 99 Camry.
Came with gasket and filter and I've read on a book and Haynes repair manual that the gasket is enough by itself to seal, but I feel like including some gasket maker to hold the gasket is that fine or will I get problems in the future?.
Gaskets are fine alone. As long as the pan is flush and the holes arent dented in . I usually run a hammer over the holes to make sure theyre flat if the pan is metal. If torqued the right way a gasket is all you need.
Doing a water pump on charger and I keep getting different opinions about etc silicone on rubber gasket I still have not come to a good solution
You dont add silicon to rubber seals. Theres no reason to. Rubber seals usually stick up 1-2mm higher than the surface and squeeze when tightened. There are rare instances where you would want to. Like if there’s two mating surfaces across the seal then you add a dab of silicone to make up for the imperfections.
Are you supposed to finger tight the bolts to let the sealant tack up for a minute or so? And then factory spec bolts?
No, you apply the sealant and then usually have about 15 minutes to mount the parts and then it takes a full 24 hours to cure.
I always squirt some on a piece of paper as well as a test so I know that when it gets hard that means I can fill the parts with fluid then
How long does cure time for liquid seal
Good video. Can you tell me if l should use rtv on a water pump gasket made of steel with some sort of felt-like coating on it ?. Thank you in advance.
Thanks! And absolutely not. If any gasket need’s silicone added its ones that cover two different surfaces. Like timing cover to cylinder head. But the mls gasket you have is all thats needed. I know we tend to think “surely thats not enough “ but what came off is whats been keeping it sealed this whole time. Those can be called multi layered seals MLS. But its truly all thats needed. If anything to ever add, Indian head shellac is the way to go. But anytime you need to add something it will be shown in the work instructions. Hope my ramblings help 🥴. Basically my answer is no. But I hope your surface is not damaged by any means.
@@MasterTechLou Thank you for the detailed response. Somehow it just doesn't "look" like it will make a water tight seal. But I'm going to resist my urge to run a bead of rtv around it :)
@@shinola228 what year make model engine?
@@MasterTechLou It's a 2008 Sonata 3.3. I don't have it yet, I'm just preparing to do the job for a friend. So l got an Aisin pump and it came with the gasket l mentioned. Unfortunately that gasket was kinked on one end due to poor packing - l straightened pretty well l think but that also made me want to put the rtv on it. I would send it back to rockauto but I've returned other things recently so I'm thinking they might feel I'm abusing their free return policy.
@@shinola228 ah the hidden info, order a new gasket from O’Reilly’s, dont dare use a bent one.
Well damn, I’m def the bad bead guy 😅 to be fair I never had problems over 100,000 Miles
qhat are you suppose to do with all the silicone thtq gets stuck in the nossel and gets wasted??
@@wonderwalls3565 collateral damage 🤷🏼♂️😂. I remove the nozzle and push the hardened stuff backwards to continue using the tube but there is not really a good way to salvage whats in the nozzle. Least not that I have found or really cared about.
@@MasterTechLou thanks.
What product would you recommend to remove ultra black or grey gasket maker?
@@fernandosouto6835 black is the best for oils. If memory serves, grey is sensor safe? But black is the way to go usually
Thanks for the quick reply and helpful video. I’m trying to open up a diff that’s sealed with Permatex 81182 gasket maker. It’s similar to ultra black. What solvent do you use to open the diff with?
@@fernandosouto6835 solvents dont often work, you can use a
Blow dryer or heat gun and there should be a spot to
Pry safely
Thanks you for speaking in millimeters.
I wonder if plastic razors are sharp
you crazy cutting it that small i need to use so much pressure to squeeze it out my hands die, is there a better way to do it?
Never mind i saw the tip and trick thank you
@@alejandrogaming9465 most people comment before watching the video fully
Another nice job Lou.
Great tips
Hi
Tried to go to cartechconnect, website could not be found? How do contact you about a s500 intermittent stall, dash power loss, no crank issue.
I do have an icarsoft mb2, just not sure what to look for in the scan.
Hello, I closed the site down. Sorry .
Do you use Mercedes brand sealant for aluminum oil pans or can you use something else?
I use mercedes however it’s basically loctite with mercedes name on it. Black silicone is basically black silicone. In my experience. But use a brand name.
@@MasterTechLou okay thanks for the quick reply. I removed my oil pan from my c250... it was the hardest job I've ever done...I don't want to put the wrong sealant and have to drop the subframe again... talk about a headache.
@@stemulatedstudents I hate oil pans upside down…… pull the oil filter. Let engine drain and drip as long as you can. Worst part is tryin to put oil pan back with oil dripping
@@MasterTechLou lol it's been a week so I'm sure it's pretty dry...I've just been apprehensive of which sealant to use...is there an alternative to loctite sf 7200? I can't find it anywhere near me.
@@stemulatedstudents amazon next day delivery 😉 or local parts store has got to have black rtv from loctite or permatex
Does the rtv go on the inside or the outside of the bolt holes?
That depends on the application, almost always it goes on the inside because you’re keeping the oil from leaking outwards. But it also depends on what your sealing because sometimes oil can come from all around the hole. There’s usually instructions on whatever you are sealing as to the path the sealant should be applied. That was a great question. It’s just not a one-size-fits-all answer.
is it better to have a round bead or to flatten the bead before mating the two surfaces?
Later in my video I show to never flatten the bead with your fingers
What about on a front diff actuator ?
Unless there is an o ring then yes it may need silicone.
Is it safe to use rtv for a valve cover?
Safe? sure, but it depends , if you are using ONLY rtv? does the car call for a gasket? if so, we do apply small dabs depending on the car and head. but we never make a gasket alone from rtv UNLESS its a machined surface.
Master tech Lou get you a valco tube squeezer
very helpful
Loctite 598 in 190ml pressure can and forget about all that malarkey...
Does your bead size demonstration apply to oil pans as well?
Absolutely. You are not making a gasket you are filling in imperfections of mating surfaces.
What's the part number of that tool?
Which tool?
@@MasterTechLou sorry, the silicone cartridge gun. And also the part number of the cartridges for it too, please
@@mjk4378 003-989-98-20-10 for silicone and 112 589 00 25 00 for the gun
@@MasterTechLou dope! Thanks dude
Im working on a 50 year old 351w and putting on a china made timing cover...Trust me NOTHING here is "perfectly machined flat" LOL
I've never bead it and leave it. I bead. Then use my finger to spread it. That way I can determine if it is too much or too little. Id rather be able to pull excess off before it squeezes.. and a chunk breaks off. And cause damage.. yes to much rtv can Fk sht up
Nice
Man got a PHD in RTV
😂😂 “To seal or not to seal, that is the question “
I just got annoyed with seeing some of the things we see day to day. And figured I would share my experience with this. Hope it helps.
How long do you let it setup for?
Good question, one thing I may not have shown, is, once I bolt the parts together, I then squirt some rtv on a piece of paper. I check it periodically, once its tacky and getting solid, I then fill fluids. I use that as my gauge. it actually sets up faster in the presence of air , or lack of air, depending on the sealant used. But Ive never waited more than an hour to add fluids. Not that I can remember.
Have you ever watched the Permatex "training" vids? Their bead is hilariously large.
Thats what she said. Wait that doesnt apply. Back in the day, silicone was a replacement for gaskets . So you would goop the heck out of it. But now everything is machined dang near perfect so we are only filling in the gaps. You should see any dodge transmission pan
🫣🥴🤮 its crazy how much is used on all the ones I see.
not ultra, right stuff best.
More is always better.
Fuck