@@v4skunk739 the point is that if the engine brakes down on stock or lightly modified cars, Toyota should repair it! This at hand is now a known issue, and they had even admitted they changed the pistons in the new version, then removed the post when confronted by warranty claims.
@@ryandoyle4344Thankyou mate, you understand, I had one today and another few go close… My information is very accurate, that is why I can’t tell who it comes from, this is a big issue now
The real issue here isn’t with the engine letting go. The issue is when/if it lets go will Toyota honour the warranty claim. At the moment I don’t think one warranty claim for the engine letting go has been upheld. If not it’s a new engine which most of us can’t really afford and if we can afford it we have to forge it to stop it potentially happening again.
Yes I agree, I said this also in the video, they are not honoring warranty claims or recalling because this would be super expensive for them! But, cases are increasing and if they reach the number, they will have to recall. Imagine those poor people that saw their cars burning down!
@@GRfourfun yes 👍 for a car which is £30,000 plus still in the uk 🇬🇧 My 1ZZ Celica lost its engine at 135k… but there were issues with the 1ZZ. Maybe they should use the k20 lol 😂
But how can they get away with that? I am fighting them now over this and have involved a lawyer. At my fault, I missed the 20000km service. But discussed that with them at 30000km and was told all fine now and for the warranty certificate. At 34000 the engine went and now they don’t want to know. Not yet taken it apart to see the exact damage whilst we go back and forth. Standard car and only did 1h on track in its life.
2 of these engines blew up at a track day this weekend. One at the end of the straight. Driver lost control because of the oil/engine lockup and hit a wall. Car burned to the ground.
Sorry to hear that, we know what happens even to well, although certain owners say it isn’t true just thinking they will protect their residuals… 🫣 Thankyou very much for sharing!
This event in the nomenclature I'm familiar with is called LSPI, low speed pre igniton. Well documented in many DI petrol engines. SP rated oil a must, lower calcium content alledgedly reduces uncontrolled oil detonation events around the ring lands. It makes sense that excessive ring gap would excaserbate the chance of a LSPI event.
LSPI , against this, the car needs the API SP Oil Generation. It's no big difference between the 0W20 Oil and the 5W30 Oil. Important is a big oilcooler for taking care of the engine with an oil temperature between 85 and a max.100 of degrees. The hotter the oil, the bigger the risk for LSPI. Important is also a very clean Max. 3000 km and then change. In Japan, they change the Oil before the track and after the track. And shure a good catch can system helps to filter the oil and the gasoline in the oil out of the system. Yeah, and another LSPI Problem with Pre Ignition is the Gasoline. 102-105 oktane gives Safety. And never forget, this is a street car, not a race car, same a 2JZ Engine.
What about doing the following: Upgraded breather system 5w40 oil Upgraded cooling for Oil and engine coolant Colder plugs Obviously a good tune This will not overcome blowby but decrease the factors that decrease a knock event caused by blowby.
@@rezaparker3893yes, I have done all this, apart from 5W30, but I know of cars tracking with 5W50 in Malaysia for two years on stock engines and running strong
@@PIRASMotorsport In Spain they have the Iberian cup(Rally), all are GR Yaris running sometimes 10w40 y sometimes 20w50, in Japan I've read that some tuners recommend 0w40 I can't confirm that.
LOL...IMO, the 'What the fuck, Toyota' goes towards them not using the I4 engine in the base Yaris. More cylinders = smoother running engine. We ALL know this.
API SP has an adjusted additive package to combat LSPI (the exact additive package and amount used differs per oil manufacturer) that is not present in API SN Plus or previous oil standard revisions. LSPI happens in small displacement engines with forced induction when the engine is lower in the RPM range (2000rpm and lower typically) and you press very far/deep on the accelerator pedal to accelerate rapidly. The engine is trying to produce more power, but it far outside of its optimal RPM range - detonation occurs. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Low-speed_pre-ignition There are 2 simple workarounds. 1. Downshift - this includes downshifting to 1st gear. 2. When the engine is lower in the RPM range, bring the engine to a higher RPM range via half throttle until the engine is above 2500RPM or more, then increase throttle input. Running an oil thinner than 5w30 also has the negative impact associated with oil push out. During high piston pressure events (ie. accelerating with elevated boost pressure levels) thinner oil will be pushed out from in between the connecting rod bearings and crankshaft - this increases the metal-to-metal contact and increases the damage done to the engine internally. And I'll be investing in an oil cooler in the near future. It also seems that having a turbo timer would be a smart thing to have installed.
really should be downshifting to 5th to pass or maintain speed up even med grades on highways in 6th gear. Anything under 25-3000 rpm’s should be upshifting to get into better boost range.
For those who dont have the money to change pistons, rings and rods.... Ditch that 0W-20 oil for a 0W-30 or 0W-40 that meets Euro A3/B3 spec. For USA owners Mobil 1 0W-40 is a thin 40 weigh and is almost a 30. Change oil ever 3k-5k to avoid oil sheaing and getting too thin allowing blowby. Always wait for full operating temp before hitting boost. Never get into boost under 2k rpm. Allow the engine to idle 1 minute before shutting it off after spirited driving to cool the oil down.
@@nezabytes ok so the VVT system is overly sensitive like a GM VVT system. I honestly don't think the 1st gen GR Corolla will be very popular with serious track day enthusiasts for very long.
@@PIRASMotorsport I don't know who told you that but that is just false, kind of. The W in 5W-30 or 0W-20 stands for Winter. The oil will only get as thick as a 5 weight oil at freezing temperature. Thicker isn't better at start up. Before synthetic oils became common (1980's &90's)you wanted the Winter thickness as close to the hot thickness as possible. Example 10W-30, 15W-40 20W-50, ext. This was to slow down oil shearing and thinning of the oil at high temperature and pressure(turbo engines), however, modern synthetic oil is much more stable and 0W-30 and 0W-40 oil is now Porsche A40 approved for high HP turbocharged engines. The hot thickness is what matters! But if the VVT system cannot function with thicker oil which is needed to stop blowby due to excessive oil thinning and vaporization then this engine is kind of junk.
@@jschwenz8153 at our shop we ran out of 5w20 and the managers put 5w30 instead. The customers, a lady and her mother got down the road and came right back albeit very slowly. I told them not to put that oil in that car (Toyota Matrix or Prius if I recall). The vehicle went in lump mode. I think the GR Corolla will be fantastic after a lil more r&d. It's exceedingly low on consumables and has the thickest cylinder walls I've ever seen, save for a VW VR6. There is an 800hp Yaris on here already. Toyota does need to work on that engine vibration though...
I’ve daily my GRY for 3 years up to 120,000km. So far everything is fine for me. I’ve religiously did oil change over everg 10k km, and sometimes 5k km. With Ron97 petrol instead of the Ron98 and above. I do hope my engine does not popped.
I’m confident that Toyota will find a reason to deny your warranty in such cases, but using off spec oil viscosity makes their case far easier. I like my chances with 0W20 and the courts of law.
Agree, I'm sticking with the oil they they recommend, Toyota should at least have a kit made available free of charge headgasket, head bolts and all seals etc + new piston ring set be made available for those who want to do this themselves or they re-call .
In 2013, Ford says 5w30 for v8, but 5w50 for v8 PP (performance package). Same engine, but more protection; now 0w8 b/c fuel mileage, but also less protection
I worked on Subaru engine and tuning before. I don’t care what forum said, but mechanically speaking, the higher viscosity oil can help reduce temperature and stress of the components in the engine. EJ20 or EJ25 with high octane fuel and high viscosity oil will only help your engine last longer. And never try to gamble with 10,000 miles oil change, it is another reason for US customers believe this is what they need but it is absolutely not to any engines. Marketing never understands the mechanism and knowledge of how to protect the engine and your investment. In this case with GR Yaris or GR Corolla, it is the same case, the 0w20 only a loophole for marketing to promote the gas mileage, but it will only to harm to the engine. 5w30 is a minimum for stock engine. And thank you AJ for the great video!
Hola Daniel muy buen día, vivo también en Colombia y he leído en varios forums los repetitivos problemas que tiene este motor, tu sabes si las últimas unidades de gr Yaris de primera generación que están vendiendo nuevas en Colombia todavía tienen este problema? Gracias.
@@AVMD83 Ni idea, no creo que sea un problema tan grave para preocuparse, el % de carros con esto es muy bajo - en internet y los foros uno usualmente solo encuentra a los que les va mal...
Reminds me of the 2016/17 Ford Focus RS mk3 2.3l turbo engine issues with them blowing up and Ford intially trying to get out of warranty claims. The engine issues were a different reason however to what youve highlighted, early mk3 RS cars had a incorrect head gasket from the mustang fitted which was allowing engine coolant to leak into the cylinders which caused the engine failures. Eventually Ford acknowledged this problem and did a recall at Fords expense to all affected vehicles for the correct head gasket to be fitted. Ford enthusiasts groups raising the issue via social media and making it public common knowledge no doubt swayed Fords decision from denial into action. Id recommended GR yaris owners etc sharing your video on their Facebook groups etc. Lets hope Toyota follows suit and issues a field action recall to address what youve highlighted. Thankyou for making your video.
Thankyou mate, this was exactly the idea behind this video. So many haters that are just trying to protect their residuals by burring their heads under the sand, while we should find a way to fix the problem!
Yes, you are correct. I own a Focus RS mk3 since 2017 and fortunately have 0 issues, but in social media people destroyed the reputation of this fantastic car because in 30000 vehicles 100 blew up! When you talk about Ford Focus Rs mk3 on the internet all that internauts can say is: "Oh.. that car that has chocolate engines"!
@@PIRASMotorsport Agreed. Just because you like something, doesn't mean you have to blindly lie about it. I like Apple, not gonna pretend that everything they make is solid gold. It isn't. 16gb ram in 2024 for ex ? LOL. NOT WOW.
I had multiple turbo vehicles here in Australia, and i use a cheaper brand of engine oil and change it every 2500kls, viscosity of 10w-50 or higher in my since new Yaris GR. No problem at all.
Cheers mate, thankyoubfor sharing your experience, I concur, so many keyboard lions that comment without an understanding of how things work mechanically
I have GR Corolla 2023 is this model effected is USA. I use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum API SP Oil 0w 20 ILSAC GF6-A per the manual.I have 23k miles had since new all is well. Mine is a daily driver and I change oil every 2500 miles and do proper warm up and cool down every time. In the manual here in USA it calls for 0w 20 API SP Oil with ILSAC GF6-A. I live in Florida but it’s a daily not a track car. My only mods are intercooler and charge pipes. It makes 303whp.
@@gregg7869 thanks. I have 23k miles and owned brand new since 19 miles July of 2023. I just did my 9th oil change and did proper break in oil change at 1k miles. I have also sent my used oil for analysis to blackstone everything was perfect. I do sometimes highway pulls all is well. I run 93 shell V power fuel or Sunoco Ultra 93 octane. Btw did my diff and transfer case to redline fluid at 10k and also transmission fluid @10k with OEM fluid. Break fluid flush was also done at 20k miles and change air filer every 10k. The car is very well maintained.
@@PIRASMotorsport ok but it’s a daily not doing any track stuff max oil temp 218f or 103c oil temp but driving in town oil temp is 205 or 96c in hot Florida weather on average. Oil pressure is good I just drive it to work and back. Why does the manual say 0w 20? I sent my oil 3 separate times for analysis to blackstone labs. They said engine is in great shape all my numbers are great. I used a very good quality oil Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w 20. It’s GTL oil that’s a borate ester. It’s a API SP with ILSAC GF6-A specification oil. Pennzoil Ultra platinum is made in 5w 30 as well. Most people in states only use 5w 30 on the track but 0w 20 for daily. I run 93 octane Shell V power or Sunoco Ultra 93 octane as well. At 23k miles now owned brand new since 19 miles all is well. I also change my oil every 2500 miles and on my 9th oil change.
@@mhk67091 also in FL here, I only run 5W-30 Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and not a track car, it's my wife's daily and road trip car. Been doing Blackstone tests since first oil change. Original owners, Circuit Edition, since 8 mi June 2023.
So, just because Toyota's engineers have had a few instances of misgapped piston rings, I should now take a gamble with a local mechanic-essentially paying a lot of money to draw a new hand of cards without even knowing how bad the first hand was? What are the right tolerances, how do you check them? Why buy new pistons before verifying that I have the problem?
Not sure it is a mistake, I think that is how they engineered it and it isn’t working ad intended. Not any mechanic, somebody that specialises in these engines
My understanding, for race type builds, adding extra ring gap can mitigate ring bind, but it's limited to 6-7 thousandths/ inch of bore. If bore is 250 thousandths.
What about a proper break-in? Like, I know Toyota recommends their 621 mile break-in time, but let's be real, that's not enough. When I was doing my break-in, I followed these steps: * Immediate oil and filter change from factory to Royal Purple break-in specific oil (and a good quality filter) * Another oil change at 500 miles, again the RP break-in specific oil (and another good filter) * During that first 500 miles no boost, varying engine load as often as possible, running from 2k to 6k RPM, no wide-open throttle (a given with no boost) * First normal oil at 1500 miles, 5w30 AMSOil signature series (and another good filter) * During these 1k miles varying boost, never more than ~5 psi, continued varying load/RPM on engine, no WOT * Final oil change at 3k, same oil and filter * During these final 1500 miles, no boost over 10 PSI, still similar varying of RPMs and load on the engine, occasional harder pulls, never starting below 3k RPM My thinking is that, since break-in is specifically about mating the cylinder walls to the piston rings, this should help prevent blow-by. I understand that it's not likely to do anything for the improperly-gapped piston rings, assuming that that's actually the case (it seems incredible that Toyota's engineers would overlook something so fundamental), but taking what you've laid out here as gospel, at least for the purposes of this conversation (and seeing no evidence to the contrary). I do wonder if the shit-tier break-in recommendations that Toyota makes in the owners manual might also be playing a role in these mega detonations. Anyway, interesting video you've made here. I look forward to learning more about whatever has caused these few engines to catch fire, and will continue to hope I'm not so unlucky.
Thankyou for your detailed response mate: for the oil part of the run-in, we do the same. You don’t have to be scared to run some boost, just not to extremes, as it will help everything bed in. Piston rings also enjoy deceleration, just using engine braking with no brakes, provided you don’t start from over, let’s say, 5500rpm. I don’t believe the gaps are a mistake now: I think they were studied for these ring’s metal expansion behaviour. Hence, probably it’s the material that isn’t the best choice…
@@PIRASMotorsport I forgot to mention the engine braking as well! I read an excellent post on the GRForums talking about an extensive break-in process, and it seemed worth the effort. I'm coming up on the 5k service, and see no appreciable oil consumption, though I have yet to run a full 3k miles on a single oil change, so that's still TBD. Sucks about the piston rings. I wonder why they would choose to use rings made of the materials they chose, if the cold-temp gaps would be so far out of spec as to be dangerous...
@@Ttamlinyou know, I have worked for many years in management with OEM’s, and there is a long way to go from what the engineers design and the actual parts they get after procurement and supply chain. This is manly how all the recalls occur…
Nice video AJ, dissapointing to find it's a build issue by Toyota on the ring gaps, as others have said has the Gen2 been fixed ? Correct warm up and cool down is essential on all engines, built or stock, keep up the great work . Regards Russ....🙏
why can't they learn after 1zz? my celica was a bust, consumed a quart every week. same with their 2.4s in the 07-11 year range on various lines. same issue, how are they fking up this badly? to me, toyotas are reliable minus the oil glugging. my 260k mile volkswagen gtieats less oil...maybe 1 quart in 4-6 months. it's more fun & the interior is more modern, not a fan of toyota after all these issues.
Toyota has done marvels with the GR products, let’s not forget we owe them for hot hatches and combustion engines still pulling thru and having a future. They have an issue and aren’t managing it at best, issues happened with most of the top performing engines out there
Do we happen to know when the 2nd gen engines started being? I know it's still TBD if the rings have been fixed in that gen, but I was curious if we have any information on that, maybe a slight change to the engine designation or something?
I have just watched, on Ryan Tuerck's channel, the assembly of the G16E engine for his Celica GT4 project. Now I think I get it when you talk about forging.
Happened to my uncles GR Yaris last week... car wasn't tuned, had 45,000 kms on it and just blew up on the motorway not even over revving it. They've definitely got a design flaw and the fact Toyota will not honor their warranty, just shows you how greedy these bastards are. It 's sad to see but even a fkn Hyundai is more reliable and even if it blows up at least they will honor the warranty Lmfao. Toyota are garbage now.
@@gummbyandpokey that’s because out of thousands only .02% have had problems. These guys are fear mongering and not pointing out the obvious reason: bad drivers
maybe, just maybe, turning an imbalanced tiny 3cyl into a high output performance motor is a fundamentally terrible idea i’m not an engineer and yet even i understand this
What the hell has happened to Toyota these are catastrophic failures first their V6s total failures now their three cylinder WTF Have they forgot how to build reliable cars?????
@@loganamurray64 I wonder what changes in manufacturing procedure and QA they made to allow for these back to back issues. This is what I would expect from Jaguar or Alfa Romeo, not Toyota.
@@VnVnV-893 Well the V6s have been failing because of “improper cleaning after the production process” ie. the blocks weren’t cleaned properly and metal was left in the oil galleries to kill the engine. That’s most likely due to Toyota needing to greatly expand production of the engine so the facilities and workers aren’t as experienced yet. They also might’ve had to rush to meet emissions standards and that let quality control slip a bit. With the I3’s I think it’s just a case of Toyota’s never tried a turbocharged, direct and port injected engine like this, there’s bound to be issues with the first iteration and Toyota’s already made revisions for when the GR Yaris and Corolla get updated
I hate 3 cylinders. I drove one once and I immediately stopped test driving it and said, this is not for me It drives horrible. A lot of 3 cylinders break It's just unnatural Like a dog with three legs, it doesn't work As properly as 4
I am 100% sure that such a failing piston is covered by warranty. Here in Belgium I have 10 years European warranty on my Gen1 GR Yaris. if Toyota had to back down they committed a legal violation. As long as no engine tuning has be done on a Toyota, and maintained by Toyota, no one has to worry. The prescribed 0w20 oil is more than sufficient for sporty public road use! I know people who have already driven more than 6000km on the Nürburgring with stock G16E-GTS engines and 0w20 oil in it. No problems so far! Tuning these engines with bad software is the problem i think.
I’m sorry but you aren’t well informed. Yes, of course there are various cars working well, but a growing number are failing, for the LSPI Mega Detonation issues I went to a lot of trouble to acucrately describe in this video, while risking braking my relationships with Toyota…
@@PIRASMotorsportthe G16E-GTS is in production from 2021. And now they are failing? How? Why not two years ago? Some G16E-GTS engines run on ethanol with almost 600hp in the uk. Detonation can have several causes.
@AJClubsport thank you for this video. What I don't understand is why the warranty would not cover this failure? (assuming the car was not modified and had a proper service history). Surely this failure is a warranty claim just like any other part failure?
Running 0W-20 during hard driving is a big gamble, same as what guys were doing in their gen 1 BRZ/86 and having oil overheating and thinning out issues leading to disaster. I ran 0W-30 in my BRZ on the track and street and no issues!
Owner and member of multiple UK GR forums. I only know of one failure within 3 years here and Toyota UK honoured a replacement. We have a 10 year warranty here and not going to put any other oil in that would potentially give Toyota an excuse to refuse a claim. Contrary to videos like this with quasi expert evidence the G16E-GTS isn’t blowing up left right and centre.
@@PIRASMotorsport I’m not disputing your evidence at all so thank you for the informative video. Please don’t try to scare monger and panic owners though as it’s only a very small number of failures compared to the total build numbers to date and of those in the UK at least Toyota have honoured the warranty.
The problems with last engines are created from oil specs. Lack of viscosity is the main problem in the industry. This problem affects all brands and almost all engines, worst in high pressure direct injection and turbo engines. Thin oil will be burned in combustion and the engines runs in low quantity of oil more often, thin oil will be even thinner after petrol go down the cylinder walls and create dilussion. All of this can be controlled if we use 5w40/50 or even an 10w60 in hot countries and high revs. I will never use viscosity below 5w40. I use in all cars and engines, even turbo diesel at least 5w40 and never blow a turbo or needed to open any engine due the lack of lubrication.
Thanks AJ. This is long awaited video. Dealer: - One time car use at track and dealer may reject any warranty request. - oil change aka 5w30 and you don't have warranty for engine. And Toyota still continue doing ads with bloggers running at track but you cannot do so according to Toyota😡 Shame for Toyota...
Yes mate, you nailed the point exactly: they can’t make this kind of product and then not stand behind it. They are missing out, because people could decide to turn elsewhere…
Make sure you use API SP rated oil with ILSAC GF6-A specification. Also use premium with 91 octane or higher. I would recommend Shell, Sunoco , Chevron. They have a additive called POLY EITHER AMINE this can also help combat LSPI.
Hi Adriano, Great job on the research and thanks for sharing! 0W-20 is mainly for efficiency and emission compliance, but I’ve noticed it heats up quickly in extreme use. Now, if you don’t use this engine in sub-zero temperatures, that viscosity grade isn't really necessary. As you mentioned, some dealers are already accepting 5W-30 (though not in my region yet 😢) . It would have been nice if Toyota had accepted both options from the start, like with the 4U-GSE (aka FA20) in the GT86. The question now is, given the benefits of 5W-30, what would its disadvantages be? Let’s set aside fuel efficiency and emission compliance, thanks for advance, have a nice day!!
In reality, I have seen no downsides in using this weight of oil mate, just go with it. While it isn’t s guarantee, it helps preventing the issue. Cheers for your support!
The main and rod bearing clearances will be set to run 0w-20, running 5w-30 for the life of the engine will possibly shorten the life of the bearings. Is it worth the benefits of decreased cylinder bore wear? I think so.
@@vipercrazy-9 The difference between SAE 20 and SAE 30 hot viscosity is negligible. The engine already goes through the equivalent of SAE 30 (and much, much thicker than that) as the oil is warming up.
Nearly all automakers have eased their quality standards in order to meet demand. My B8 Audi is more reliable than any new Honda or Toyota, and I will be happy to keep it for the foreseeable future.
Great video my friend, a little concerning about all the negative media the GRC has been getting as a day 1 owner. In your follow up video, can you elaborate on the Gen 1 vs Gen 2 engine differences? And whether or not the 2023+ GR Corolla has the Gen 2 engine? Cheers 🍻
Again here in USA we didn’t get GR Corolla’s until 2023, Europe had since 2020 I think. Plus I think Corolla GR got different stock pistons and rings than Yaris GR. Now weather that makes a difference I’m not sure. Please let me know. I have 23k miles strong
This was a great video and well explained of issues. What we have here is bad development and engineering which is uncharacteristic of the Toyota brand but has been an issue in recent with not just the GR Corolla/Yaris but looks what has happened with the new Tundra. You shouldn’t have to build up a motor unless you are making pretty significant power over factory or doing some dedicated track work. Owners should sue Toyota, because even if they cover the blown motors, what will happen after the warranty is up or on the used market??
What are the actual numbers here? It looks maybe 2 non-modified US vehicles out of ~10,000 or more? Maybe this isn't an epidemic and just an average set of failure rates across all manufacturers? Numbers are needed.
Actually they have pushed to directions they had never been in during modern era, therefore it happens to mess up… they corrected in Gen.2, that leaves me with only one major complaint: how they are managing warranty claims
I spent over a year in court with Toyota after my 22 Tundra V6 started knocking at 8K Kilometers. The court sided with me because the Truck had such low mileage and Toyota had to refund my full amount. But I still got stuck with the lawyer fee. I will never own a Toyota again!
@@PIRASMotorsport just don’t buy one or if you do own one then sell it. No good to you if it blows up even if they cover it under warranty, no worth the hassle imo
@paulsimpson8990 I believe the car has a lot to like, and great performance, especially at Gen.1 prices. Failure rate isn’t that high either, point is Toyota isn’t standing behind the vehicle’s warranty
@@PIRASMotorsport You say many cars are failing but then in the video you say its a small subset of cars in a GEN1. so what is it. MANY or just. small amount? I will drive my GRC and not worry about anything.
@05xrunner I’m just reporting a real issue here, after having done heavy first person research together with stakeholders in Italy. We have confirmed 30 cars here. If you hear of a GR on fire, this most likely is the cause, and I explained in detail mate. Of course you don’t have to drive worrying, bit at least you know now and there are s couple of cheap things you can do, including driving style, to mitigate risks. Better than pretending this isn’t happening…
Great information i have built quite a few engines now and also pushed them close to 800hp on forged rods and pistons. What i will say is whoever does change to forged parts make sure the crank is balanced again. There nearly 80 grams out and if not done correctly it will shake the engine badly The crank needs a heavy metal slug tapping in and welding then using the Ballance factor we worked out at SRD Tuning balance the assembly. Ive also seen the vacuum pump casing stressed parts like broken chain guides and braking the cams in extreme conditions. 8000rpm on a thicker oil. Ash
@@nesmio7378 reverse engineering. Need all the piston,rod, bearings weight and put the crank on the ballancer and bob weights and work backwards until the crank doesn't want to climb out the machine Lol
This isn’t ruining anything mate: this is a factual report of issues happening. I am invested in this platform, making parts snd everything. Still, if the information is there, I want to share it because who am I to control information in order to get personal benefits?
@@BuffaloBill-pt9nsI am not incorrect because I didn’t do this research alone mate: it is what it is and I will not hide information to protect my own BIG investments in this platform.
Turbo/4wd combo are a hoot to drive fast & hard. But when they break, they costs a lot to repair. Even for preventive maintenance, they need strict 5k oil changes & constant mechanical checks which unfortunately, needs a fat wallet from their owners. These are mass production cars but are manufactured & marketed as high performance cars. Their manufacture & machine tolerance levels are not race car or high performance car levels. You get what you pay! The next step is always a huge jump in investment ie. forged items, specialised mechanical services & expensive replacement parts. The truth is that they can't last very long if the owner constantly drives the car very fast & very hard (on track or race days). In a race situation, all race engines are taken out after a race. They are not raced again ever. But for a mass production car, you will be using the car even after a hard day at the track. That is how cars break down. Very few owners are prepared to maintain their cars fastidiously. Most are likely to spend money ie. up their boost till kingdom come, change turbo or spend huge money to spruce their car.
"Their manufacture & machine tolerance levels are not race car or high performance car levels." Even though they are production engines, stock Honda F20C and stock Honda K24 engines usually last in race cars for a while (1-2 seasons) before they blow up... Could the issue be the turbocharging and the use of low friction components (narrow bearings etc) in the G16E to maximise fuel economy?
@@PIRASMotorsport so for all this 30 blown up engines in Italy that you are referring was the warranty rejected?? All of them? Do you have some evidence in form of paper or emails from Toyota like in the two GR Corolla cases in the US ??
@@PIRASMotorsport not sure but I think the direct injection, was just driving one day and my engine light popped out and took to the dealer, warranty was covered by Toyota even though I was going over 85 mile per hour, I actually went to Mexico and did 135mph before my check engine light was on and Toyota didn’t seem to care or check or maybe they did check and the service advisor helped me out with the warranty, shout out to mission hills Toyota !! They fix everything, it did take like two week for them to figure out what the problem was and to get the injectors in set of three injectors and they asked if I put e85 on the vehicle prior to taking it in for the warranty, I obviously didn’t put e85 on it so I’m assuming it’s the direct injectors that were replaced
@@mr_thrash8514thanks for sharing this experience, collecting all from everyone. Just so you know, you can use the car at any speed and this cannot affect warranty. What they tried on the other poor guy is against the law…
In U.S. we call this Pre-Detonation, it’s basically the inverse of knock if your an old timer. It’s a special gift of Direct Injection… Port injection rarely if ever had pre detonation issues.
What's with 85 mph? The engine is at about half the redline at that speed in 6th gear. What's that got to do with it? The engine can safely go to redline, but not to even 4,000 rpm in 6th gear? Nonsense.
Now I could be absolutely stupidly wrong but if I'm going to dumb it down for myself and other engine inept people. Toyota's just not building this engine right. At all
Hey AJ, great Video! What is with gen2 GR yaris? I thought toyota just used the GR corolla pistons(and therefore same Problem) ? But sounds Like they Modified/fixed that Problem on gen2?
Yes, this is exactly the point: we still don’t know if the issue is fixed on the Gen2 or not, till we manage to get eyes on the pistons and understand what they actually used. Toyota is very aware of the problem and are trying to keep on top while trying to stay away from a huge recall on Gen1’s and Corolla’s
thanks for the video. sounds strange that Engine is so well designed, yet it has ring gap problems like they would not been measured well during engine build up. is there any documentation available from Toyota / Yamaha to what spec the piston rings should be gapped in this engine, just to have it checked whoever has the possibility? it is quite big project to open the engine but no brainer if forging it. Just installed catch can to my GR, and already running baffles in oil pan including oil cooler, maybe they help in keeping the temps down and oil in better condition but as said it is not a resolution. But good reason to do a bigger engine project with valve springs, cams and pistons at some point.
Yes mate, forging is the only way to have complete piece of mind. For sure they are gapping the rings for a reason, maybe the specific material they use expands more than what we usually see, and this dimension shift makes the issue happen
@@PIRASMotorsporthelp me make sense of this, if the ring material expands more than it should that means the ring gap is not big enough so the circumference of the ring would be greater? Surely that would be a tighter tolerance in the bore and be better for not allowing blow by? Or are you saying the ring expands too much and causes scoring leading to blow by?
@@PIRASMotorsport my take is still getting engine and oil too hot at some point that then causes micro cracks in piston that then leads to more severe damage. don't believe rings are issue as they are the same in all models from first to current. but of course forged internals is always stronger.
i've been an owner of a GR Yaris and i drove it hard (in the hills, at the track, off the lights). i am fairly sure these failures will be traced to an unexpected over-rev situation (aka money shift) - which can be found in the engine ECU logs. it knows what gear, what speed and what rpm the engine is at. if you exceed the fuel cut rpm it saves that data point. depending on your relationship with your toyota dealer (at least in australia) you can see the data (and plenty more) yourself when they plug in the car.
@@PIRASMotorsport and have their engines let go since if it was tuned by us? Those engines which let go were tuning errors. Every single stock engine that has been modified and tuned by us is still going
@@PIRASMotorsportshould also ensure they have an adequate catch can also. And by adequate I don't mean any generic off the shelf units as they are not all created equal.
I have noticed a large disparity in the day-to-day fuel consumption of my GR versus other friends'. This might explain it. Would a compression test be able to show a latent issue in our engines?
Good work tracking down the problem :) Mechanically the combustion process only contributes 25% of the loads to the Crank/Rods/Pistons etc,, So You could double the Power and be pretty safe 😉 However Dynamic loads increase by the SQUARE !! As RPM Increases (keep our RPM down) To Distroy an Engine like this Takes a tremendous Load like a Hydralock or Detonation. To address your#~ problem maybe I would :- - Keep Oil temps ~ 100c ( the oil's not going to burn if its not hot and vapourised) Use a proper Oil (think You figured that out) 0w~8 I would not even use on Door Hinges 🤣 - Come up with a Really good Crankcase Ventillation/oil seperator system, OEM's are limited due to Emission Laws 😔And the 3 Cylinder is always going to be a Headache over a 4 cylinder (2 pistons opening Crankcase Volumn as 2 Pistons decend) Regarding Warranty, All Japanese Engines exceed their intended design parameters, hense their Reputation - Your not going to break them without abuse/modification and I just could never see them not covering you running a better oil - Maybe they woud not give you a new Cat if they figured out you ran a good ZDDP Lubricant though 🤪
Thankyou for your detailed and dedicated answer Redshift! I totally agree with almost everything: fact is that these engines are blowing in stock form too! I literally got another report from USA just now as I woke up! And again, Toyota appears not to be standing behind it… I asked to be contacted for further details
@@PIRASMotorsport You are welcome 🙂 I'm no expert on LSPI additives but I am not sure it's even possible for them to work fast enough to help 🤔 I'm an Engine Man and I know you need 2 things for Combustion ! The second You come off the Throttle the injectors will close but the Manifold pressure will not drop so quickly so any "combustable vapour" drawn into the combustion chamber has a good chance of Detonating. I can think of only 2 ways to stop this 1, As we discusssed a better Crankcase Ventilation system or 2, a Remap that that keeps the injectors running for ~200-400ms to cool things down and burn the vapour from the decaying excess Crank pressure. Trouble is I think we all Hate a slower reacting Motor to closed Throttle even more than slow reacting to Throttle opening 😂 Kinda leaves us with option 1 really 🙂 I feel for the Manufacturers having to meet crazy emission rules, Everything would be "Greener" and better if they were allowed to run Engines efficiently without all the Nasty Emission equipment - But it makes the Idiot rule makers happy because they never consider transmuted pollution as real Pollution 🙄 Suspect the "forged" fix is more down to Proper Rings (non low tention) as generally you run larger Piston clearance for Forged pistons. They will take a lot more Heat and Load but Detonation will still distroy them.
i want to like the gr corolla here, but other than the sleek exterior and the gearbox/handling. it's honestly a wash compared to the honda. i saw the newer honda civics with similar type r interiors and they look sweet. definitely the better buy, both interior and engine wise lol
It is a newly developed engine (first gen) and if I'm not mistaken, it's the first three cylinders gasoline car that have the size exceeding 1.5 liter.
Please stop mis leading my subscribers: if you don’t like the channel, there are many more to explore. OW20 doesn’t protect the engine against the issue described!
@@PIRASMotorsport I never said or suggested that 0W-20 protects the engine from this failure. I’m simply stating which oil I’m still using. Part of it has to do with warranty.
According Toyota's Chief engineering they adjusted ignition timing software on the Gen2 and they used reinforced pistons. So they had to know about this problem. I have the Gen2. Do I also have to use 5W30 instead of the 0W20 ?
@@PIRASMotorsport I searched on Toyota's Microcat the original part number for the piston of the Yaris Gen1, Yaris Gen2 and Gr Corolla: on the GR Corolla untill september 2024 it's 13101-18040 GR Yaris Gen1 is 13101-18030 GR Yaris Gen2 is 13101-18040 and for the GR Corolla from september 2024 it is 13101-18050 The latest GR Corolla has not the same pistons as the GR Yaris Gen2 !!! So I wonder if they actually fixed the problem on the GR Yaris Gen2 ? And for all these different pistons they use the same piston rings ! 13011-18040
The 2.3L Ford Ecoboost engines were failing in a very similar way, the problem IMO is that they are overestimating the strength of the type of alluminium alloy they are using.
@@STIStuff Don’t use 5w30 or other grades of oil, Use only 0w20 API SP real full Synthetic oil ( Like Ravenol DFE 0w20) This engine is designed for the 0w20 viscosity and nothing else!! It states on the oil cap for a good reason !!All this engine failures and blown up motors like in this video are from wrong oil viscosity , no API SP specific oils and wrong software tunes and nothing else!!
@@STIStuff any oil that’s API ILSAC GF-6. Critical it’s GF-6. Oil change intervals at 3000 miles and please, please do not go with higher viscosity. Stick with the 0W20
@@gregg7869 I'd run a mile from Ravenol - asI have caught them out selling oil out of spec and making out it was fine by adding an extra label AFTER I received the oil. Utter jokers. Fuchs ftw.
The problem is people are putting are way too much power on those there's Yaris with the Same power of Laborgini Aventators let that Sink in a 3 cylinder having as much power as V12 🤔🤦 that's close to 220hp per Cylinder Imagine how much boost & pressure each cylinder is using, Engine was not built for that 🤷🤦
They are marketed to be used on the track, so you should be able to do so without them braking. Warranty on track is always sticky, but the cars failing at stock on the streets, then not supported by Toyota, is just too much
Pistons don't suffer from cavitation, impossible. The compression rings do not get heated from rubbing the cylinder walls, they are cooled via the cylinder walls. The rings get heat from combustion, the gaps are large due to being high output boosted engines. There will be a lot of heat making that top compression ring grow in length and tighten the gap. They can't run .020 ring gaps, I would probably run .045 or .050 thousands of an inch or more. I believe the fault you're describing, low speed pre ignition, is most likely the fault. Combined with that middle cylinder probably seeing higher heat temps. This could cause the rings to touch ends, binding the bore and break the upper ring land of the piston. Which would grenade the engine
Your explanation sounds like you read some random internet article and took it as fact. "I will not state the actual ring gap"....lol. Please dont produce videos like this unless you actually know what you are talking about. I've run HUGE ring gaps on turbo engines with minimal blow-by. Even if the gaps were massive, that thing would smoke like hell, burning oil Ring gaps too tight are break the piston crown and destroy an engine.
I know exactly what I’m talking about, but I’m not gifting ALL of the information like that. Can’t you see I had the engine in my hands? Please refrain from these negative comments, and from what you write it appears to me you don’t know what you’re talking about, comparing some old engine to this avenue conunterpart
@@Charper Judging by your channel you run an S2000 that is running old school port injection from the 90's - technology wise, so please educate me how something from 30 years ago applies to todays high specific output, high BMEP, low BSFC engines that are closer in characteristics to a diesel than a port injected engine? Have you ever messed in any serious matter with a modern direct injected engine or you just talking outta your ass assuming all gasoline engines act the same just because it's the same fuel that's being burned?
@nesmio7378 yes. B58 but I specalize in F series engines. Outdated technology? We bring the F series to current day tech. This n/a F series makes 311whp... no turbo needed here. Tuning aspect - yes DI is a very different game - from a build aspect, the differences in the shortblock are almost irrelevant. We spec according to cylinder pressures and load. Using just a little common sense would show if it were an issue or not....Like a leakdown test. Show us % numbers, its very simple and straightforward. If the rings are allowing such a massive blow-by, this would very clearly show as a very poor leakdown % at the rings...but it would also be smoking like hell if this guys claims were accurate... which I have yet to see anyone claim was happening.
Seems like everyone just wants these engines to fail and are looking for any reason for them to fail. 10 failing is nothing out of all the ones being made. Seems fine to me. Also the two guys that had theirs catch fire were very dodgy about info. Me was in an accident and the other guy had no insurance.
Cost cutting and engines stifled and smothered by friggen mandatory emission requirements. It's not complicated 30 years ago engines were reliable and dependable.
@@PIRASMotorsporthaving a car that can explode at any point, even when not pressured is crazy and highly stressful. On top of that you have Toyota playing silly games with warranty and speed monitoring. Honestly, i do not know how you guys live with this everyday.
Increasing the lifespan of your engine by 2~10x solves the problem. Bonding a lubricant to the engine reduces the wear by 50~90% and stops engines dying. Reducing friction is the key to long engine lifespan.
Yes and no, I’m not a fan of the ceramic treatments, because they get into all the oil orifices, and when they wear the come off as debris within the engine
@@PIRASMotorsport This is not a ceramic treatment. Debris in the engine was reduced by 50~90%: Refer the oil analysis testing Flow through oil galleries improves as sludge is removed: Engines get cleaned Sludge can not stick to a coated surface: Engines stay clean A clean running motor will result in a clean engine Lubrication is improved: The rings get freed up. This is the kind of lubrication you need to avoid the kinds of problems you are complaining about. :-)
Had it happen to me, was cruising chill @ 120kmh, going to spectate some local hill climb event here, I gave it some gas to pass (half throttle) as the car in front switched lanes, no crazy kickdown or anything and kaboom. RIP 300k km's EA113 BYD tfsi. The detonation was so bad that the spark plug tip broke, injector tip got damaged and valve cap literally broke and was sitting on the piston (i could not stop so went on for like 2kms more which didn't help). I'm using Motul 8100 Power 5w40 now, which is API SP on this new (second hand) CDLA engine. Hopefully it won't do it again as the costs were terrible (nothing like new gen stuff but 3k euro is 3k euro). Missed the fkn hill climb also :D
Looks like the same spot my engine blew a hole in itself too. Blow by makes sense with the misfiring issues I had paired with my exhaust always smelling so strongly of gas
@@PIRASMotorsport I suspect it was a combination of both for mine considering how rapidly it all came apart. The smell was only noticeable at idle for mine and it only misfired on cylinder 2. Wish I could figure out what became of that car so I could try to get my hands on the engine
85 mph is the SPEED LIMIT in some places. If it can't handle that, Toyota needs to pay up.
Exactly
@@PIRASMotorsport I still believe most people are money shifting and trying to play the warranty to get it fixed.
@@v4skunk739 the point is that if the engine brakes down on stock or lightly modified cars, Toyota should repair it! This at hand is now a known issue, and they had even admitted they changed the pistons in the new version, then removed the post when confronted by warranty claims.
@@v4skunk739 you have no proof people are money shifting their cars, that’s your opinion.
@@matts6551 It's a fact. I'm not saying all failures are money shift, but many are. And you can easily tell too.
Toyota/Lexus have just started the Tundra and LX recall for engine replacement. Over 100,000 impacted vehicles.
This is great to know!
Hoping you won't have channels bullying to remove, like when Tundra videos started a few months before the recall. Steadfast
@@ryandoyle4344Thankyou mate, you understand, I had one today and another few go close…
My information is very accurate, that is why I can’t tell who it comes from, this is a big issue now
@@yukonstriker1703 Was for AJ, who clearly wasn't aware.
I will buy the LX in 10 years. It will be bulletproof by then
The real issue here isn’t with the engine letting go. The issue is when/if it lets go will Toyota honour the warranty claim. At the moment I don’t think one warranty claim for the engine letting go has been upheld. If not it’s a new engine which most of us can’t really afford and if we can afford it we have to forge it to stop it potentially happening again.
Yes I agree, I said this also in the video, they are not honoring warranty claims or recalling because this would be super expensive for them! But, cases are increasing and if they reach the number, they will have to recall.
Imagine those poor people that saw their cars burning down!
@@GRfourfun yes 👍 for a car which is £30,000 plus still in the uk 🇬🇧
My 1ZZ Celica lost its engine at 135k… but there were issues with the 1ZZ. Maybe they should use the k20 lol 😂
@@dtrain1634 K20 is King! 🙌🏻
But how can they get away with that? I am fighting them now over this and have involved a lawyer. At my fault, I missed the 20000km service. But discussed that with them at 30000km and was told all fine now and for the warranty certificate. At 34000 the engine went and now they don’t want to know. Not yet taken it apart to see the exact damage whilst we go back and forth. Standard car and only did 1h on track in its life.
@@ralfw3550 I’m sorry you’re going through this. What were the conditions of the failure? Where are you located?
2 of these engines blew up at a track day this weekend. One at the end of the straight. Driver lost control because of the oil/engine lockup and hit a wall. Car burned to the ground.
Sorry to hear that, we know what happens even to well, although certain owners say it isn’t true just thinking they will protect their residuals… 🫣
Thankyou very much for sharing!
Dang well good information. Glad it’s now documented here on TH-cam and should be making its way around forums and facebook. ❤
Thankyou, please share everywhere, and ask people with failures tonreport back to me
This event in the nomenclature I'm familiar with is called LSPI, low speed pre igniton.
Well documented in many DI petrol engines.
SP rated oil a must, lower calcium content alledgedly reduces uncontrolled oil detonation events around the ring lands.
It makes sense that excessive ring gap would excaserbate the chance of a LSPI event.
Well said mate!
Wouldn't the ring gap also cause excessive positive crankcase pressure to vent oil back into the intake?
@ryandoyle4344 no mate, the PCV takes care of that!
LSPI , against this, the car needs the API SP Oil Generation. It's no big difference between the 0W20 Oil and the 5W30 Oil. Important is a big oilcooler for taking care of the engine with an oil temperature between 85 and a max.100 of degrees. The hotter the oil, the bigger the risk for LSPI. Important is also a very clean Max. 3000 km and then change. In Japan, they change the Oil before the track and after the track. And shure a good catch can system helps to filter the oil and the gasoline in the oil out of the system. Yeah, and another LSPI Problem with Pre Ignition is the Gasoline. 102-105 oktane gives Safety. And never forget, this is a street car, not a race car, same a 2JZ Engine.
@@holgerstoll4682Thankyou, I agree with your statement, but 5W30 will always provide a better protection film with no downside
This is LSPI. Viscosity will not fix the issue and is risky. What’s critical is to ensure the oil is ILSAC GF6 for optimal protection from LSPI.
Nothing can fix it but it contributes to diminishing chances mate, together with oil temperature management
What about doing the following:
Upgraded breather system
5w40 oil
Upgraded cooling for
Oil and engine coolant
Colder plugs
Obviously a good tune
This will not overcome blowby but decrease the factors that decrease a knock event caused by blowby.
@@rezaparker3893yes, I have done all this, apart from 5W30, but I know of cars tracking with 5W50 in Malaysia for two years on stock engines and running strong
@@PIRASMotorsport In Spain they have the Iberian cup(Rally), all are GR Yaris running sometimes 10w40 y sometimes 20w50, in Japan I've read that some tuners recommend 0w40 I can't confirm that.
What is the LSPI?
this is a shame, you buy a small toyota that cost 40k that it is quite expensive and the motor can blow up??, what the fuck Toyota
Yep…
LOL...IMO, the 'What the fuck, Toyota' goes towards them not using the I4 engine in the base Yaris. More cylinders = smoother running engine. We ALL know this.
API SP has an adjusted additive package to combat LSPI (the exact additive package and amount used differs per oil manufacturer) that is not present in API SN Plus or previous oil standard revisions.
LSPI happens in small displacement engines with forced induction when the engine is lower in the RPM range (2000rpm and lower typically) and you press very far/deep on the accelerator pedal to accelerate rapidly. The engine is trying to produce more power, but it far outside of its optimal RPM range - detonation occurs.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Low-speed_pre-ignition
There are 2 simple workarounds. 1. Downshift - this includes downshifting to 1st gear. 2. When the engine is lower in the RPM range, bring the engine to a higher RPM range via half throttle until the engine is above 2500RPM or more, then increase throttle input.
Running an oil thinner than 5w30 also has the negative impact associated with oil push out. During high piston pressure events (ie. accelerating with elevated boost pressure levels) thinner oil will be pushed out from in between the connecting rod bearings and crankshaft - this increases the metal-to-metal contact and increases the damage done to the engine internally.
And I'll be investing in an oil cooler in the near future.
It also seems that having a turbo timer would be a smart thing to have installed.
Thankyou very much for chiming in: every word you wrote here is golden, happy to have you here, hope to talk more!
really should be downshifting to 5th to pass or maintain speed up even med grades on highways in 6th gear. Anything under 25-3000 rpm’s should be upshifting to get into better boost range.
@@nafsucofyes mate!
@@nafsucof I think you mean downshifting (5th to 4th / 4th to 3rd).
@@not12listen yes you’re right thanks…fixed it
So basically:
Build your engine, because Toyota didn't beef it up enough from factory.
Maintain it super well and if you want to push it, build it immediately, yes
Exactly, they didn't think about the durability about this engine like they did with the 2JZ in the mk4 supra
@BigAltimaEnergy719 they could had made a closed deck block
@BigAltimaEnergy719 yes mate
@@PIRASMotorsport or maybe the engine block should've been made with cast iron instead of aluminum
For those who dont have the money to change pistons, rings and rods.... Ditch that 0W-20 oil for a 0W-30 or 0W-40 that meets Euro A3/B3 spec. For USA owners Mobil 1 0W-40 is a thin 40 weigh and is almost a 30. Change oil ever 3k-5k to avoid oil sheaing and getting too thin allowing blowby. Always wait for full operating temp before hitting boost. Never get into boost under 2k rpm. Allow the engine to idle 1 minute before shutting it off after spirited driving to cool the oil down.
No, horrible advice. We shut down Toyota engines with viscosity change and put them in lump mode because of vvt. If it says 0w20...use 0w20!!!
I’m sorry, but if you don’t change the cold viscosity, you don’t make real improvements…
@@nezabytes ok so the VVT system is overly sensitive like a GM VVT system. I honestly don't think the 1st gen GR Corolla will be very popular with serious track day enthusiasts for very long.
@@PIRASMotorsport I don't know who told you that but that is just false, kind of. The W in 5W-30 or 0W-20 stands for Winter. The oil will only get as thick as a 5 weight oil at freezing temperature. Thicker isn't better at start up. Before synthetic oils became common (1980's &90's)you wanted the Winter thickness as close to the hot thickness as possible. Example 10W-30, 15W-40 20W-50, ext. This was to slow down oil shearing and thinning of the oil at high temperature and pressure(turbo engines), however, modern synthetic oil is much more stable and 0W-30 and 0W-40 oil is now Porsche A40 approved for high HP turbocharged engines. The hot thickness is what matters! But if the VVT system cannot function with thicker oil which is needed to stop blowby due to excessive oil thinning and vaporization then this engine is kind of junk.
@@jschwenz8153 at our shop we ran out of 5w20 and the managers put 5w30 instead. The customers, a lady and her mother got down the road and came right back albeit very slowly. I told them not to put that oil in that car (Toyota Matrix or Prius if I recall). The vehicle went in lump mode. I think the GR Corolla will be fantastic after a lil more r&d. It's exceedingly low on consumables and has the thickest cylinder walls I've ever seen, save for a VW VR6. There is an 800hp Yaris on here already. Toyota does need to work on that engine vibration though...
I’ve daily my GRY for 3 years up to 120,000km. So far everything is fine for me. I’ve religiously did oil change over everg 10k km, and sometimes 5k km. With Ron97 petrol instead of the Ron98 and above.
I do hope my engine does not popped.
Me too mate! It is about 1 in 100 among the cars we are monitoring now, so fingers crossed! 🤞
Milages 70000km. 0w-20 Engine Oil and only RON 97 fuel. Stock standard and no modification at all. So far no complaining and running absolutely good.
I’m confident that Toyota will find a reason to deny your warranty in such cases, but using off spec oil viscosity makes their case far easier. I like my chances with 0W20 and the courts of law.
Agree, I'm sticking with the oil they they recommend, Toyota should at least have a kit made available free of charge headgasket, head bolts and all seals etc + new piston ring
set be made available for those who want to do this themselves or
they re-call .
Best thing you can all do is to share your history and failures, I will collect and then we can move as class action
In 2013, Ford says 5w30 for v8, but 5w50 for v8 PP (performance package). Same engine, but more protection; now 0w8 b/c fuel mileage, but also less protection
Totally agree!
I worked on Subaru engine and tuning before. I don’t care what forum said, but mechanically speaking, the higher viscosity oil can help reduce temperature and stress of the components in the engine. EJ20 or EJ25 with high octane fuel and high viscosity oil will only help your engine last longer. And never try to gamble with 10,000 miles oil change, it is another reason for US customers believe this is what they need but it is absolutely not to any engines. Marketing never understands the mechanism and knowledge of how to protect the engine and your investment. In this case with GR Yaris or GR Corolla, it is the same case, the 0w20 only a loophole for marketing to promote the gas mileage, but it will only to harm to the engine. 5w30 is a minimum for stock engine.
And thank you AJ for the great video!
My Toyota dealer last month put 5w30 oil on my car after 5000km, they also overfill it a bit. I am in Colombia, we rarely see temps below 5C
That is super mate, but I would get the Lamspeed sump baffle kit with an oil cooler instead of overfill
Hola Daniel muy buen día, vivo también en Colombia y he leído en varios forums los repetitivos problemas que tiene este motor, tu sabes si las últimas unidades de gr Yaris de primera generación que están vendiendo nuevas en Colombia todavía tienen este problema?
Gracias.
@@AVMD83 Ni idea, no creo que sea un problema tan grave para preocuparse, el % de carros con esto es muy bajo - en internet y los foros uno usualmente solo encuentra a los que les va mal...
Hola. También en Colombia con GR. Saben si hay un grupo de Yaris GR dueños que se comparta este tipo de información?
@@nandoabduhola! I don’t know if there is a group of GR owners in Colombia, but I have a friend and a few subscribers from there with GR Yaris!
Reminds me of the 2016/17 Ford Focus RS mk3 2.3l turbo engine issues with them blowing up and Ford intially trying to get out of warranty claims. The engine issues were a different reason however to what youve highlighted, early mk3 RS cars had a incorrect head gasket from the mustang fitted which was allowing engine coolant to leak into the cylinders which caused the engine failures. Eventually Ford acknowledged this problem and did a recall at Fords expense to all affected vehicles for the correct head gasket to be fitted. Ford enthusiasts groups raising the issue via social media and making it public common knowledge no doubt swayed Fords decision from denial into action. Id recommended GR yaris owners etc sharing your video on their Facebook groups etc. Lets hope Toyota follows suit and issues a field action recall to address what youve highlighted. Thankyou for making your video.
Thankyou mate, this was exactly the idea behind this video. So many haters that are just trying to protect their residuals by burring their heads under the sand, while we should find a way to fix the problem!
Yes, you are correct. I own a Focus RS mk3 since 2017 and fortunately have 0 issues, but in social media people destroyed the reputation of this fantastic car because in 30000 vehicles 100 blew up! When you talk about Ford Focus Rs mk3 on the internet all that internauts can say is: "Oh.. that car that has chocolate engines"!
Agree. I had one from new and had zero issues. Social media does tend to overeact and its hard to get a sense of the real scale of the issue
I'm glad you made this video, Toyota propagators really could use some humbling
Yes, and I’m an invested supporter, but what is right is right…
@@PIRASMotorsport Agreed. Just because you like something, doesn't mean you have to blindly lie about it. I like Apple, not gonna pretend that everything they make is solid gold. It isn't. 16gb ram in 2024 for ex
? LOL. NOT WOW.
@@goclunker that is exactly why I only tell the truth! So many don't...
I had multiple turbo vehicles here in Australia, and i use a cheaper brand of engine oil and change it every 2500kls, viscosity of 10w-50 or higher in my since new Yaris GR.
No problem at all.
Cheers mate, thankyoubfor sharing your experience, I concur, so many keyboard lions that comment without an understanding of how things work mechanically
I think you meant to say you didn't want to be an alarmist, not terrorist. You need to be aware of trigger-words TH-cam will de-monetize you.
Thankyou, my bad!!
😂😂😂😂
so much for the famed toyota reliability, hope warranty is honoured.
And not always it is…
other brands can still do worse, as the man told us himself, relative to the number of cars sold here, it's still a small issue.
@@dawn-moon stop worshipping toyota there are brands as reliable if not more reliable especially in the performance department
I have GR Corolla 2023 is this model effected is USA. I use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum API SP Oil 0w 20 ILSAC GF6-A per the manual.I have 23k miles had since new all is well. Mine is a daily driver and I change oil every 2500 miles and do proper warm up and cool down every time. In the manual here in USA it calls for 0w 20 API SP Oil with ILSAC GF6-A. I live in Florida but it’s a daily not a track car. My only mods are intercooler and charge pipes. It makes 303whp.
You are using a really good oil in the correct spec 0w20 API SP for your engine. Your changing intervals are also pretty good 👍
@@gregg7869 thanks. I have 23k miles and owned brand new since 19 miles July of 2023. I just did my 9th oil change and did proper break in oil change at 1k miles. I have also sent my used oil for analysis to blackstone everything was perfect. I do sometimes highway pulls all is well. I run 93 shell V power fuel or Sunoco Ultra 93 octane. Btw did my diff and transfer case to redline fluid at 10k and also transmission fluid @10k with OEM fluid. Break fluid flush was also done at 20k miles and change air filer every 10k. The car is very well maintained.
I recommend you change to 5W30 oil, with an oil cooler mate, its a cheap but good insurance
@@PIRASMotorsport ok but it’s a daily not doing any track stuff max oil temp 218f or 103c oil temp but driving in town oil temp is 205 or 96c in hot Florida weather on average. Oil pressure is good I just drive it to work and back. Why does the manual say 0w 20? I sent my oil 3 separate times for analysis to blackstone labs. They said engine is in great shape all my numbers are great. I used a very good quality oil Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w 20. It’s GTL oil that’s a borate ester. It’s a API SP with ILSAC GF6-A specification oil. Pennzoil Ultra platinum is made in 5w 30 as well. Most people in states only use 5w 30 on the track but 0w 20 for daily. I run 93 octane Shell V power or Sunoco Ultra 93 octane as well. At 23k miles now owned brand new since 19 miles all is well. I also change my oil every 2500 miles and on my 9th oil change.
@@mhk67091 also in FL here, I only run 5W-30 Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and not a track car, it's my wife's daily and road trip car. Been doing Blackstone tests since first oil change. Original owners, Circuit Edition, since 8 mi June 2023.
So, just because Toyota's engineers have had a few instances of misgapped piston rings, I should now take a gamble with a local mechanic-essentially paying a lot of money to draw a new hand of cards without even knowing how bad the first hand was?
What are the right tolerances, how do you check them? Why buy new pistons before verifying that I have the problem?
Not sure it is a mistake, I think that is how they engineered it and it isn’t working ad intended.
Not any mechanic, somebody that specialises in these engines
Well, there aren't many specialists for this engine, and it's not always easy to find one nearby😢
@@jorgeluismedinabegazo1043there is at least one in every country
@AJClubsport lol. In Canada or the US that could mean a 3 day drive.
What mileages are these failures on average? How is it possible for toyota not to pay out for a blown engine that is unmodified?
My understanding, for race type builds, adding extra ring gap can mitigate ring bind, but it's limited to 6-7 thousandths/ inch of bore. If bore is 250 thousandths.
Yes, everyone that has opened these engines to forge them have seen this
This is why I went with an NA engine. It doesn't have that extra power but I can floor it and it won't break. Long live the 2GR
Its not so bad if you take the right precautions, and it does fly!
What about a proper break-in? Like, I know Toyota recommends their 621 mile break-in time, but let's be real, that's not enough. When I was doing my break-in, I followed these steps:
* Immediate oil and filter change from factory to Royal Purple break-in specific oil (and a good quality filter)
* Another oil change at 500 miles, again the RP break-in specific oil (and another good filter)
* During that first 500 miles no boost, varying engine load as often as possible, running from 2k to 6k RPM, no wide-open throttle (a given with no boost)
* First normal oil at 1500 miles, 5w30 AMSOil signature series (and another good filter)
* During these 1k miles varying boost, never more than ~5 psi, continued varying load/RPM on engine, no WOT
* Final oil change at 3k, same oil and filter
* During these final 1500 miles, no boost over 10 PSI, still similar varying of RPMs and load on the engine, occasional harder pulls, never starting below 3k RPM
My thinking is that, since break-in is specifically about mating the cylinder walls to the piston rings, this should help prevent blow-by. I understand that it's not likely to do anything for the improperly-gapped piston rings, assuming that that's actually the case (it seems incredible that Toyota's engineers would overlook something so fundamental), but taking what you've laid out here as gospel, at least for the purposes of this conversation (and seeing no evidence to the contrary). I do wonder if the shit-tier break-in recommendations that Toyota makes in the owners manual might also be playing a role in these mega detonations.
Anyway, interesting video you've made here. I look forward to learning more about whatever has caused these few engines to catch fire, and will continue to hope I'm not so unlucky.
Thankyou for your detailed response mate: for the oil part of the run-in, we do the same. You don’t have to be scared to run some boost, just not to extremes, as it will help everything bed in. Piston rings also enjoy deceleration, just using engine braking with no brakes, provided you don’t start from over, let’s say, 5500rpm.
I don’t believe the gaps are a mistake now: I think they were studied for these ring’s metal expansion behaviour. Hence, probably it’s the material that isn’t the best choice…
@@PIRASMotorsport I forgot to mention the engine braking as well! I read an excellent post on the GRForums talking about an extensive break-in process, and it seemed worth the effort. I'm coming up on the 5k service, and see no appreciable oil consumption, though I have yet to run a full 3k miles on a single oil change, so that's still TBD.
Sucks about the piston rings. I wonder why they would choose to use rings made of the materials they chose, if the cold-temp gaps would be so far out of spec as to be dangerous...
@@Ttamlinyou know, I have worked for many years in management with OEM’s, and there is a long way to go from what the engineers design and the actual parts they get after procurement and supply chain. This is manly how all the recalls occur…
5w-30 on a 0w-20 engine?
@@matexf4c yes, exactly
Nice video AJ, dissapointing to find it's a build issue by Toyota on the ring gaps, as others have said has the Gen2 been fixed ?
Correct warm up and cool down is essential on all engines, built or stock, keep up the great work .
Regards Russ....🙏
Thankyou Russ! It still isn’t clear what pistons they have really put in the Gen2: if they are the Corolla pistons, it isn’t fixed…
@@PIRASMotorsportis there any way to checki it? E.g. verifying parts number - but I guess a casual user/driver doesn’t have access to it 😎
why can't they learn after 1zz? my celica was a bust, consumed a quart every week. same with their 2.4s in the 07-11 year range on various lines. same issue, how are they fking up this badly? to me, toyotas are reliable minus the oil glugging. my 260k mile volkswagen gtieats less oil...maybe 1 quart in 4-6 months. it's more fun & the interior is more modern, not a fan of toyota after all these issues.
Toyota has done marvels with the GR products, let’s not forget we owe them for hot hatches and combustion engines still pulling thru and having a future. They have an issue and aren’t managing it at best, issues happened with most of the top performing engines out there
Do we happen to know when the 2nd gen engines started being? I know it's still TBD if the rings have been fixed in that gen, but I was curious if we have any information on that, maybe a slight change to the engine designation or something?
I have just watched, on Ryan Tuerck's channel, the assembly of the G16E engine for his Celica GT4 project. Now I think I get it when you talk about forging.
Great mate! I will also do a follow up video
Maybe I've been living under a rock. But I havent heard or seen of any of these issues happening in Australia oddly enough
Lucky you mate!
If you just google it, you will find many cases!
Happened to my uncles GR Yaris last week... car wasn't tuned, had 45,000 kms on it and just blew up on the motorway not even over revving it. They've definitely got a design flaw and the fact Toyota will not honor their warranty, just shows you how greedy these bastards are. It 's sad to see but even a fkn Hyundai is more reliable and even if it blows up at least they will honor the warranty Lmfao. Toyota are garbage now.
@@PlaTinuM1gsvery sorry to hear this mate: how is your uncle moving towards Toyota now? You can tell him to reach out if he wishes to
@@gummbyandpokey that’s because out of thousands only .02% have had problems. These guys are fear mongering and not pointing out the obvious reason: bad drivers
My own bitter experience of Toyota is that their warranty is worthless.
maybe, just maybe, turning an imbalanced tiny 3cyl into a high output performance motor is a fundamentally terrible idea
i’m not an engineer and yet even i understand this
This mainly occurs on standard cars, but it occurs in a very low overall percentage %
What the hell has happened to Toyota these are catastrophic failures first their V6s total failures now their three cylinder WTF Have they forgot how to build reliable cars?????
Yes…
They’ve taken a decent bit of risk with the new engines, and it’s biting them in the ass
@@loganamurray64 I wonder what changes in manufacturing procedure and QA they made to allow for these back to back issues. This is what I would expect from Jaguar or Alfa Romeo, not Toyota.
@@VnVnV-893 Well the V6s have been failing because of “improper cleaning after the production process” ie. the blocks weren’t cleaned properly and metal was left in the oil galleries to kill the engine. That’s most likely due to Toyota needing to greatly expand production of the engine so the facilities and workers aren’t as experienced yet. They also might’ve had to rush to meet emissions standards and that let quality control slip a bit. With the I3’s I think it’s just a case of Toyota’s never tried a turbocharged, direct and port injected engine like this, there’s bound to be issues with the first iteration and Toyota’s already made revisions for when the GR Yaris and Corolla get updated
@@loganamurray64 gtk
I hate 3 cylinders. I drove one once and I immediately stopped test driving it and said, this is not for me It drives horrible. A lot of 3 cylinders break It's just unnatural Like a dog with three legs, it doesn't work As properly as 4
Yes
The real reason: "No replacement for displacement".
Totally agree!
Nothing to do with displacement. Even 6l V8s blow up.
Seldomly and badly built or maintained
It would be so much better with 4 cylinders, 3 cylinders turbo are scam.
@@GF-mf7ml Says who? You?
Amazing video, top notch explanation. Thank you!!!
Thankyou for watching and reaching out!
I am 100% sure that such a failing piston is covered by warranty. Here in Belgium I have 10 years European warranty on my Gen1 GR Yaris. if Toyota had to back down they committed a legal violation. As long as no engine tuning has be done on a Toyota, and maintained by Toyota, no one has to worry. The prescribed 0w20 oil is more than sufficient for sporty public road use! I know people who have already driven more than 6000km on the Nürburgring with stock G16E-GTS engines and 0w20 oil in it. No problems so far!
Tuning these engines with bad software is the problem i think.
I’m sorry but you aren’t well informed. Yes, of course there are various cars working well, but a growing number are failing, for the LSPI Mega Detonation issues I went to a lot of trouble to acucrately describe in this video, while risking braking my relationships with Toyota…
@@PIRASMotorsportthe G16E-GTS is in production from 2021. And now they are failing? How? Why not two years ago? Some G16E-GTS engines run on ethanol with almost 600hp in the uk. Detonation can have several causes.
@AJClubsport thank you for this video. What I don't understand is why the warranty would not cover this failure? (assuming the car was not modified and had a proper service history).
Surely this failure is a warranty claim just like any other part failure?
Running 0W-20 during hard driving is a big gamble, same as what guys were doing in their gen 1 BRZ/86 and having oil overheating and thinning out issues leading to disaster. I ran 0W-30 in my BRZ on the track and street and no issues!
Hey, do you know if there are any problems with the motor warranty when you tune for example the suspension?
Makes sense why Toyota went with the BMW B58 motor for the Supra.
That was way before this development..
Owner and member of multiple UK GR forums. I only know of one failure within 3 years here and Toyota UK honoured a replacement. We have a 10 year warranty here and not going to put any other oil in that would potentially give Toyota an excuse to refuse a claim. Contrary to videos like this with quasi expert evidence the G16E-GTS isn’t blowing up left right and centre.
I’m sorry to read your criticism, maybe you should google the failures, if you don’t believe my evidence
@@PIRASMotorsport I’m not disputing your evidence at all so thank you for the informative video. Please don’t try to scare monger and panic owners though as it’s only a very small number of failures compared to the total build numbers to date and of those in the UK at least Toyota have honoured the warranty.
@@mugenmarkwell said, and positive 👍
@@mugenmarkyes, I understand better now, thankyou! Just published a new video where I also make a disclaimer
The problems with last engines are created from oil specs.
Lack of viscosity is the main problem in the industry. This problem affects all brands and almost all engines, worst in high pressure direct injection and turbo engines.
Thin oil will be burned in combustion and the engines runs in low quantity of oil more often, thin oil will be even thinner after petrol go down the cylinder walls and create dilussion. All of this can be controlled if we use 5w40/50 or even an 10w60 in hot countries and high revs.
I will never use viscosity below 5w40.
I use in all cars and engines, even turbo diesel at least 5w40 and never blow a turbo or needed to open any engine due the lack of lubrication.
Thankyou Carlos, I couldn’t agree more!
Thanks AJ. This is long awaited video.
Dealer:
- One time car use at track and dealer may reject any warranty request.
- oil change aka 5w30 and you don't have warranty for engine.
And Toyota still continue doing ads with bloggers running at track but you cannot do so according to Toyota😡
Shame for Toyota...
Yes mate, you nailed the point exactly: they can’t make this kind of product and then not stand behind it.
They are missing out, because people could decide to turn elsewhere…
Make sure you use API SP rated oil with ILSAC GF6-A specification. Also use premium with 91 octane or higher. I would recommend Shell, Sunoco , Chevron. They have a additive called POLY EITHER AMINE this can also help combat LSPI.
Thanks for your good contribution! 👌
Hi Adriano, Great job on the research and thanks for sharing! 0W-20 is mainly for efficiency and emission compliance, but I’ve noticed it heats up quickly in extreme use. Now, if you don’t use this engine in sub-zero temperatures, that viscosity grade isn't really necessary. As you mentioned, some dealers are already accepting 5W-30 (though not in my region yet 😢) . It would have been nice if Toyota had accepted both options from the start, like with the 4U-GSE (aka FA20) in the GT86. The question now is, given the benefits of 5W-30, what would its disadvantages be? Let’s set aside fuel efficiency and emission compliance, thanks for advance, have a nice day!!
In reality, I have seen no downsides in using this weight of oil mate, just go with it. While it isn’t s guarantee, it helps preventing the issue. Cheers for your support!
The main and rod bearing clearances will be set to run 0w-20, running 5w-30 for the life of the engine will possibly shorten the life of the bearings. Is it worth the benefits of decreased cylinder bore wear? I think so.
@@vipercrazy-9I strongly disagree, sorry
@@vipercrazy-9 The difference between SAE 20 and SAE 30 hot viscosity is negligible. The engine already goes through the equivalent of SAE 30 (and much, much thicker than that) as the oil is warming up.
Nearly all automakers have eased their quality standards in order to meet demand. My B8 Audi is more reliable than any new Honda or Toyota, and I will be happy to keep it for the foreseeable future.
Yes, so true! B8’s were great cars!! Now they are struggling so hard with cost reduction it isn’t even fun…
Great video my friend, a little concerning about all the negative media the GRC has been getting as a day 1 owner. In your follow up video, can you elaborate on the Gen 1 vs Gen 2 engine differences? And whether or not the 2023+ GR Corolla has the Gen 2 engine? Cheers 🍻
I will mate, although it will be more of a speculation than elaboration, as I haven’t seen a new engine open
Again here in USA we didn’t get GR Corolla’s until 2023, Europe had since 2020 I think. Plus I think Corolla GR got different stock pistons and rings than Yaris GR. Now weather that makes a difference I’m not sure. Please let me know. I have 23k miles strong
This was a great video and well explained of issues. What we have here is bad development and engineering which is uncharacteristic of the Toyota brand but has been an issue in recent with not just the GR Corolla/Yaris but looks what has happened with the new Tundra.
You shouldn’t have to build up a motor unless you are making pretty significant power over factory or doing some dedicated track work. Owners should sue Toyota, because even if they cover the blown motors, what will happen after the warranty is up or on the used market??
Yes, thankyou for your feedback, totally agree
Subarus never broke when properly taken care of.
And even these don’t if you do it all right mate. But both brake if situation is suboptimal, unfortunately…
Run an evacuation system. Use to do it in V8's to get a better ring seal, and negative pressure in the engine block.
Looking into this now, thru its block PCV system
What are the actual numbers here? It looks maybe 2 non-modified US vehicles out of ~10,000 or more? Maybe this isn't an epidemic and just an average set of failure rates across all manufacturers? Numbers are needed.
I am collecting the numbers here in Italy, and we have already 30 cars
@@PIRASMotorsportOf how many sold?
Toyota is in their GM Vega era. Just cashing out their reputation for a quick buck.
Actually they have pushed to directions they had never been in during modern era, therefore it happens to mess up… they corrected in Gen.2, that leaves me with only one major complaint: how they are managing warranty claims
Considering the big gr yaris scene in the UK, they have not been vocal about this. A bit odd
It’s happening mate…
Fensport would be the best place to know about this.
@@GhostLead65they can give you confirmation yes, we have big numbers and first hand data from Italy
I spent over a year in court with Toyota after my 22 Tundra V6 started knocking at 8K Kilometers.
The court sided with me because the Truck had such low mileage and Toyota had to refund my full amount. But I still got stuck with the lawyer fee.
I will never own a Toyota again!
Sorry for your experience, it seems that they are going far from where they belong with warranty management…
270-300hp yeah I have a n54 and the fact I realize my n54 is at least still twice as durable is a new low.
Yes…
N54 can do 650 no problem and was designed in 2006….its 2024
@@paulsimpson8990yes, question is how to make Toyota take responsibility for this one now!
@@PIRASMotorsport just don’t buy one or if you do own one then sell it. No good to you if it blows up even if they cover it under warranty, no worth the hassle imo
@paulsimpson8990 I believe the car has a lot to like, and great performance, especially at Gen.1 prices. Failure rate isn’t that high either, point is Toyota isn’t standing behind the vehicle’s warranty
Great advice thank you ✌️🐸
You are very welcome!
I think that the stock engine is fine and healthy if you warm up push it and cool down .. for more horsepower ok understand
Many stock cars are failing…
@@PIRASMotorsport how many 100% stock cars exactly do we know of that failed from this issue?
@@VidNibsid like to know this also, as bad as this appears it could be
@@PIRASMotorsport You say many cars are failing but then in the video you say its a small subset of cars in a GEN1. so what is it. MANY or just. small amount? I will drive my GRC and not worry about anything.
@05xrunner I’m just reporting a real issue here, after having done heavy first person research together with stakeholders in Italy. We have confirmed 30 cars here. If you hear of a GR on fire, this most likely is the cause, and I explained in detail mate.
Of course you don’t have to drive worrying, bit at least you know now and there are s couple of cheap things you can do, including driving style, to mitigate risks. Better than pretending this isn’t happening…
Great information i have built quite a few engines now and also pushed them close to 800hp on forged rods and pistons.
What i will say is whoever does change to forged parts make sure the crank is balanced again.
There nearly 80 grams out and if not done correctly it will shake the engine badly
The crank needs a heavy metal slug tapping in and welding then using the Ballance factor we worked out at SRD Tuning balance the assembly.
Ive also seen the vacuum pump casing stressed parts like broken chain guides and braking the cams in extreme conditions. 8000rpm on a thicker oil.
Ash
What balancing factor is being used? 50?
@@nesmio7378 71% because the crank isn't in the centre line of the block.
@@ashleighcurtis How does one come up with a number for that? Curious to know for different types of engines.
Thanks Ash, I concur: the stock cams have lobes placed by interference, and they are already known to fail in extreme applications
@@nesmio7378 reverse engineering. Need all the piston,rod, bearings weight and put the crank on the ballancer and bob weights and work backwards until the crank doesn't want to climb out the machine Lol
The bad owners are killing them cause they don't know and want to do preventive maintenance.
This is part of the problem, the rest in my detailed explanation
❤
after barely 2 years???
When buying cars I follow a simple guideline...5 cylinders is the minimum.
Yes, and I just bought a brand new M2 G87 that stranded me after 2 days and I had to return it! Releasing the video now!
The more I read about this car the more im thinking of trading it in for a Type R 😢
@@79blustone 😔
Jumping the gun. Type R is cute but it is no B Road monster.
This isn’t ruining anything mate: this is a factual report of issues happening. I am invested in this platform, making parts snd everything. Still, if the information is there, I want to share it because who am I to control information in order to get personal benefits?
@@BuffaloBill-pt9nsI am not incorrect because I didn’t do this research alone mate: it is what it is and I will not hide information to protect my own BIG investments in this platform.
Go for it
Damn that was. Interesting! Looking forward to the next video
Thankyou!
Am i the only one finding the background "music" annoying ?
Sorry for that, especially towards the end I made an editing mistake…
Why do people worry about the engine explosion. Just don’t drive above 85mph😅
🤣🤣🤣 yes its ludicrous…
so basically it boils down to excessively large ring gaps leading to LSPI, and questionably thin oil spec.
Yes mate! You got it 💪🏼👌
Turbo/4wd combo are a hoot to drive fast & hard.
But when they break, they costs a lot to repair. Even for preventive maintenance, they need strict 5k oil changes & constant mechanical checks which unfortunately, needs a fat wallet from their owners.
These are mass production cars but are manufactured & marketed as high performance cars. Their manufacture & machine tolerance levels are not race car or high performance car levels. You get what you pay! The next step is always a huge jump in investment ie. forged items, specialised mechanical services & expensive replacement parts.
The truth is that they can't last very long if the owner constantly drives the car very fast & very hard (on track or race days). In a race situation, all race engines are taken out after a race. They are not raced again ever. But for a mass production car, you will be using the car even after a hard day at the track. That is how cars break down.
Very few owners are prepared to maintain their cars fastidiously. Most are likely to spend money ie. up their boost till kingdom come, change turbo or spend huge money to spruce their car.
You nailed it mate! ❤️
"Their manufacture & machine tolerance levels are not race car or high performance car levels." Even though they are production engines, stock Honda F20C and stock Honda K24 engines usually last in race cars for a while (1-2 seasons) before they blow up... Could the issue be the turbocharging and the use of low friction components (narrow bearings etc) in the G16E to maximise fuel economy?
Maybe an NA 2AR 2.5L swap is the way to go with GR Yaris and GR Corolla? 200-220 reliable whp?
Only 10 out of 27,000 seems okay. There is something fishy about this video
No, 30 only in Italy for now
@@PIRASMotorsport Well, the warranty should take care of that. End of story.
@@kazanlak2yes, that is exactly what we are saying, but they don’t!
@@kazanlak2 thirty in Italy is a lot. This is recall time
@@PIRASMotorsport so for all this 30 blown up engines in Italy that you are referring was the warranty rejected?? All of them? Do you have some evidence in form of paper or emails from Toyota like in the two GR Corolla cases in the US ??
Had my injectors replaced at 3500 miles and I have zero issues, love this car.
Your injectors? Port or direct? How come?
@@PIRASMotorsport not sure but I think the direct injection, was just driving one day and my engine light popped out and took to the dealer, warranty was covered by Toyota even though I was going over 85 mile per hour, I actually went to Mexico and did 135mph before my check engine light was on and Toyota didn’t seem to care or check or maybe they did check and the service advisor helped me out with the warranty, shout out to mission hills Toyota !! They fix everything, it did take like two week for them to figure out what the problem was and to get the injectors in set of three injectors and they asked if I put e85 on the vehicle prior to taking it in for the warranty, I obviously didn’t put e85 on it so I’m assuming it’s the direct injectors that were replaced
@@mr_thrash8514thanks for sharing this experience, collecting all from everyone.
Just so you know, you can use the car at any speed and this cannot affect warranty. What they tried on the other poor guy is against the law…
In U.S. we call this Pre-Detonation, it’s basically the inverse of knock if your an old timer. It’s a special gift of Direct Injection… Port injection rarely if ever had pre detonation issues.
Exactly mate, adding a bit more blow-by to the mix…
9:13
No wonder why I saw a Yaris catch on fire in an OEM Japanese endurance race, right after the main straight.
Wow!
What's with 85 mph? The engine is at about half the redline at that speed in 6th gear. What's that got to do with it? The engine can safely go to redline, but not to even 4,000 rpm in 6th gear? Nonsense.
Exactly!!! 👍
Now I could be absolutely stupidly wrong but if I'm going to dumb it down for myself and other engine inept people.
Toyota's just not building this engine right. At all
They appear to have fixed it on the new version, but they should do a better job at honouring the warranties…
Hey AJ, great Video! What is with gen2 GR yaris? I thought toyota just used the GR corolla pistons(and therefore same Problem) ? But sounds Like they Modified/fixed that Problem on gen2?
My question also….?
Yes, this is exactly the point: we still don’t know if the issue is fixed on the Gen2 or not, till we manage to get eyes on the pistons and understand what they actually used.
Toyota is very aware of the problem and are trying to keep on top while trying to stay away from a huge recall on Gen1’s and Corolla’s
8:00 Then why does Toyota have a 142mph limit on the car rather than an 80mph limit.
Exactly, and why are they marketed as track ready?
thanks for the video. sounds strange that Engine is so well designed, yet it has ring gap problems like they would not been measured well during engine build up. is there any documentation available from Toyota / Yamaha to what spec the piston rings should be gapped in this engine, just to have it checked whoever has the possibility? it is quite big project to open the engine but no brainer if forging it.
Just installed catch can to my GR, and already running baffles in oil pan including oil cooler, maybe they help in keeping the temps down and oil in better condition but as said it is not a resolution.
But good reason to do a bigger engine project with valve springs, cams and pistons at some point.
Yes mate, forging is the only way to have complete piece of mind. For sure they are gapping the rings for a reason, maybe the specific material they use expands more than what we usually see, and this dimension shift makes the issue happen
@@PIRASMotorsport I suppose more time will tell if this is a build issue on certain cars or something fundamentally flawed on all of them?
@@STIStuffat the moment its with all with them, then some have a more fortunate life of others…
@@PIRASMotorsporthelp me make sense of this, if the ring material expands more than it should that means the ring gap is not big enough so the circumference of the ring would be greater? Surely that would be a tighter tolerance in the bore and be better for not allowing blow by? Or are you saying the ring expands too much and causes scoring leading to blow by?
@@PIRASMotorsport my take is still getting engine and oil too hot at some point that then causes micro cracks in piston that then leads to more severe damage. don't believe rings are issue as they are the same in all models from first to current. but of course forged internals is always stronger.
i've been an owner of a GR Yaris and i drove it hard (in the hills, at the track, off the lights).
i am fairly sure these failures will be traced to an unexpected over-rev situation (aka money shift) - which can be found in the engine ECU logs. it knows what gear, what speed and what rpm the engine is at. if you exceed the fuel cut rpm it saves that data point.
depending on your relationship with your toyota dealer (at least in australia) you can see the data (and plenty more) yourself when they plug in the car.
I’m sorry, but these failures always occur at low load and low revs. You are referring to other scenarios
@ are you saying it’s LSPI?
@@simonr23 yes I am mate!
Thanks for sharing this info and my suspicion on the correct oil 5w-30 which i run myself
Happy to help and share this information: please share the video with everyone!
I have not had a single failure to date. Standard or built engines. And i believe i have done the most R&D out of anyone else on this platform.
Your baffled oil pan is a great solution.
I can give you the name of people that bought engines from you after failing their stock ones due to this very issue, and you should know this mate
I agree, and am using it too!
@@PIRASMotorsport and have their engines let go since if it was tuned by us? Those engines which let go were tuning errors. Every single stock engine that has been modified and tuned by us is still going
@@PIRASMotorsportshould also ensure they have an adequate catch can also. And by adequate I don't mean any generic off the shelf units as they are not all created equal.
Absolutely terrible. I would bet that Toyota already knew this and pushed ahead because it was too late and they were in too deep.
They know it all mate, they even removed some posts of melted pistons…
@PIRASMotorsport that's gotta be against some law...
@@Hovis_EnjoyerI’m sure it is…
I have noticed a large disparity in the day-to-day fuel consumption of my GR versus other friends'. This might explain it.
Would a compression test be able to show a latent issue in our engines?
Not really, unfortunately, because the issue occurs with different heat conditions
Good work tracking down the problem :)
Mechanically the combustion process only contributes 25% of the loads to the Crank/Rods/Pistons etc,, So You could double the Power and be pretty safe 😉 However Dynamic loads increase by the SQUARE !! As RPM Increases (keep our RPM down)
To Distroy an Engine like this Takes a tremendous Load like a Hydralock or Detonation.
To address your#~ problem maybe I would :-
- Keep Oil temps ~ 100c ( the oil's not going to burn if its not hot and vapourised)
Use a proper Oil (think You figured that out) 0w~8 I would not even use on Door Hinges 🤣
- Come up with a Really good Crankcase Ventillation/oil seperator system, OEM's are limited due to Emission Laws 😔And the 3 Cylinder is always going to be a Headache over a 4 cylinder (2 pistons opening Crankcase Volumn as 2 Pistons decend)
Regarding Warranty, All Japanese Engines exceed their intended design parameters, hense their Reputation - Your not going to break them without abuse/modification and I just could never see them not covering you running a better oil - Maybe they woud not give you a new Cat if they figured out you ran a good ZDDP Lubricant though 🤪
Thankyou for your detailed and dedicated answer Redshift!
I totally agree with almost everything: fact is that these engines are blowing in stock form too! I literally got another report from USA just now as I woke up! And again, Toyota appears not to be standing behind it… I asked to be contacted for further details
I’m talking with a partner for the crankcase ventilation system
@@PIRASMotorsport You are welcome 🙂
I'm no expert on LSPI additives but I am not sure it's even possible for them to work fast enough to help 🤔
I'm an Engine Man and I know you need 2 things for Combustion !
The second You come off the Throttle the injectors will close but the Manifold pressure will not drop so quickly so any "combustable vapour" drawn into the combustion chamber has a good chance of Detonating.
I can think of only 2 ways to stop this 1, As we discusssed a better Crankcase Ventilation system or 2, a Remap that that keeps the injectors running for ~200-400ms to cool things down and burn the vapour from the decaying excess Crank pressure. Trouble is I think we all Hate a slower reacting Motor to closed Throttle even more than slow reacting to Throttle opening 😂
Kinda leaves us with option 1 really 🙂
I feel for the Manufacturers having to meet crazy emission rules, Everything would be "Greener" and better if they were allowed to run Engines efficiently without all the Nasty Emission equipment - But it makes the Idiot rule makers happy because they never consider transmuted pollution as real Pollution 🙄
Suspect the "forged" fix is more down to Proper Rings (non low tention) as generally you run larger Piston clearance for Forged pistons. They will take a lot more Heat and Load but Detonation will still distroy them.
@Redshift- yes mate, you nailed it!
I'll stick with my type R thank you.
Cute.
Nice car too!
i want to like the gr corolla here, but other than the sleek exterior and the gearbox/handling. it's honestly a wash compared to the honda. i saw the newer honda civics with similar type r interiors and they look sweet. definitely the better buy, both interior and engine wise lol
@@adhizzle9985the Type R is a beautiful product, but offers very different driving dynamics without 4WD
It is a newly developed engine (first gen) and if I'm not mistaken, it's the first three cylinders gasoline car that have the size exceeding 1.5 liter.
Yes, and they seem to have fixed the new one now, finger crossed!
Thank you for the useful information! Will use the ENEOS X PRIME 5W30 oil (API SP / ILSAC GF-6) to protect my engine!
My pleasure!
@@BushHUNG-BAGE I’m using the same oil, but still 0W-20.
Please stop mis leading my subscribers: if you don’t like the channel, there are many more to explore. OW20 doesn’t protect the engine against the issue described!
@@PIRASMotorsport I never said or suggested that 0W-20 protects the engine from this failure. I’m simply stating which oil I’m still using. Part of it has to do with warranty.
@VidNibs 5W30 is now accepted by dealers
Given how much they charge for that 3 cylinder, it's outrageous that this is happening. Over engineered my a**.
Yes…
According Toyota's Chief engineering they adjusted ignition timing software on the Gen2 and they used reinforced pistons. So they had to know about this problem. I have the Gen2. Do I also have to use 5W30 instead of the 0W20 ?
Yes, the 5W30 has a much more protective oil film than 0W, that is mostly used for consumption and emissions nowadays
@@PIRASMotorsport I searched on Toyota's Microcat the original part number for the piston of the Yaris Gen1, Yaris Gen2 and Gr Corolla:
on the GR Corolla untill september 2024 it's 13101-18040
GR Yaris Gen1 is 13101-18030
GR Yaris Gen2 is 13101-18040
and for the GR Corolla from september 2024 it is 13101-18050
The latest GR Corolla has not the same pistons as the GR Yaris Gen2 !!!
So I wonder if they actually fixed the problem on the GR Yaris Gen2 ?
And for all these different pistons they use the same piston rings ! 13011-18040
Hi, “reinforced pistons” - does it mean they took the same pistons from GR Corolla? If yes, then the issue can still occur.
@@bemisz-pl Seems like they did
@@erwinpaumen132 maybe they will change the pistons for GRYG2 from September(+) for the same as GR Corolla has? 🙏
The 2.3L Ford Ecoboost engines were failing in a very similar way, the problem IMO is that they are overestimating the strength of the type of alluminium alloy they are using.
Seems like a sure thing now mate, yes!
So how do we explain some GRY having 50k+ on the odometer and still running perfect?
Most cars are running well, but about 1% is having this issue, already now thst the cars are only 3 years old!
By the sound of it it’s a lottery.
@@GRfourfunyes, but older engines get, this possibility increases
Gr Yaris has gr Corolla have different pistons
@@wh909 regardless of the pistons it happens to both the gr yaris and gr corolla
I love Toyota, but these three cylinder engines flat out suck. Toyota has made an enormous mistake releasing these into general production.
Four would had been waaay more simple…
@@PIRASMotorsport Definitely.
Can we have some oil recommendations plz
Ant major brand, full synthetic, 5W30 API SP rated will be fine mate!
@@PIRASMotorsportWhy not OEM Toyota 0w20?
@@STIStuff Don’t use 5w30 or other grades of oil, Use only 0w20 API SP real full Synthetic oil ( Like Ravenol DFE 0w20) This engine is designed for the 0w20 viscosity and nothing else!! It states on the oil cap for a good reason !!All this engine failures and blown up motors like in this video are from wrong oil viscosity , no API SP specific oils and wrong software tunes and nothing else!!
@@STIStuff any oil that’s API ILSAC GF-6. Critical it’s GF-6. Oil change intervals at 3000 miles and please, please do not go with higher viscosity. Stick with the 0W20
@@gregg7869 I'd run a mile from Ravenol - asI have caught them out selling oil out of spec and making out it was fine by adding an extra label AFTER I received the oil. Utter jokers. Fuchs ftw.
So basically, it's turbo 101, let it warm up, let it cool down, change the oil often, use correct rev range and for big abuse, forge the internals.
Yes mate
The problem is people are putting are way too much power on those there's Yaris with the Same power of Laborgini Aventators let that Sink in a 3 cylinder having as much power as V12 🤔🤦 that's close to 220hp per Cylinder
Imagine how much boost & pressure each cylinder is using, Engine was not built for that 🤷🤦
But this isn’t the problem discussed here: we are talking of stock and near stock engines blowing. Absurdly, the built forged engines aren’t blowing!
They are not meant to be driven on a track
If you break it on the track the warranty is voided
They are marketed to be used on the track, so you should be able to do so without them braking. Warranty on track is always sticky, but the cars failing at stock on the streets, then not supported by Toyota, is just too much
If you can't share with us some measurements are data it's just your opinion.
Suit yourself mate, but the people involved go all the way to Toyota and I’m walking on thin ice here…
Pistons don't suffer from cavitation, impossible. The compression rings do not get heated from rubbing the cylinder walls, they are cooled via the cylinder walls. The rings get heat from combustion, the gaps are large due to being high output boosted engines. There will be a lot of heat making that top compression ring grow in length and tighten the gap. They can't run .020 ring gaps, I would probably run .045 or .050 thousands of an inch or more.
I believe the fault you're describing, low speed pre ignition, is most likely the fault. Combined with that middle cylinder probably seeing higher heat temps. This could cause the rings to touch ends, binding the bore and break the upper ring land of the piston. Which would grenade the engine
Thankyou for your description, yes we are talking of a big event of LSPI here. I translated it differently in the footage
Your explanation sounds like you read some random internet article and took it as fact. "I will not state the actual ring gap"....lol. Please dont produce videos like this unless you actually know what you are talking about.
I've run HUGE ring gaps on turbo engines with minimal blow-by. Even if the gaps were massive, that thing would smoke like hell, burning oil
Ring gaps too tight are break the piston crown and destroy an engine.
You ever ran anything direct injected big man? Or only old school carburetor and port injection? It's not the same story...
I know exactly what I’m talking about, but I’m not gifting ALL of the information like that. Can’t you see I had the engine in my hands?
Please refrain from these negative comments, and from what you write it appears to me you don’t know what you’re talking about, comparing some old engine to this avenue conunterpart
Ah yes, this is some new magic that no engine builder has ever seen before...lol
@@Charper Judging by your channel you run an S2000 that is running old school port injection from the 90's - technology wise, so please educate me how something from 30 years ago applies to todays high specific output, high BMEP, low BSFC engines that are closer in characteristics to a diesel than a port injected engine?
Have you ever messed in any serious matter with a modern direct injected engine or you just talking outta your ass assuming all gasoline engines act the same just because it's the same fuel that's being burned?
@nesmio7378 yes. B58 but I specalize in F series engines. Outdated technology? We bring the F series to current day tech. This n/a F series makes 311whp... no turbo needed here.
Tuning aspect - yes DI is a very different game - from a build aspect, the differences in the shortblock are almost irrelevant. We spec according to cylinder pressures and load.
Using just a little common sense would show if it were an issue or not....Like a leakdown test. Show us % numbers, its very simple and straightforward. If the rings are allowing such a massive blow-by, this would very clearly show as a very poor leakdown % at the rings...but it would also be smoking like hell if this guys claims were accurate... which I have yet to see anyone claim was happening.
People called me dumb for saying that the GR 3cyls wasn’t going to be reliable, when the Yaris came out. Guess who’s laughing now.
They have most probably fixed it with the new version, it will be fine
I was disappointed it wasn't a 2.0l turbo. That would have been far more robust, less stressed and probably sounded better too !
@@jonathancolling2284 Can you not swap in the 2.0L turbo engine from IS200T yourself? Or maybe transverse B48 engine from MINI Cooper JCW?
Seems like everyone just wants these engines to fail and are looking for any reason for them to fail. 10 failing is nothing out of all the ones being made. Seems fine to me.
Also the two guys that had theirs catch fire were very dodgy about info. Me was in an accident and the other guy had no insurance.
Mate, 10 cars in my inner circle and 30 that I know of here in Italy. That is a lot, and cases are constantly popping up worldwide.
Cost cutting and engines stifled and smothered by friggen mandatory emission requirements. It's not complicated 30 years ago engines were reliable and dependable.
Yes, this is the truth mate!
Or FL5... just saying
@@pantag2 Oil cooling issues even with an aftermarket oil cooler fitted, but on the huge plus side they don’t go bang 🤷🏼♂️
@@GRfourfun Meanwhile, the diff of the Toyota is staying cool and does not overheat, right?
Of you have cooling issues even with an aftermarket cooler, you need our hood vents
@@PIRASMotorsporthaving a car that can explode at any point, even when not pressured is crazy and highly stressful. On top of that you have Toyota playing silly games with warranty and speed monitoring. Honestly, i do not know how you guys live with this everyday.
@@pantag2yes, I am pissed off, and now thinking of what car will be the next project
Increasing the lifespan of your engine by 2~10x solves the problem.
Bonding a lubricant to the engine reduces the wear by 50~90% and stops engines dying.
Reducing friction is the key to long engine lifespan.
Yes and no, I’m not a fan of the ceramic treatments, because they get into all the oil orifices, and when they wear the come off as debris within the engine
@@PIRASMotorsport This is not a ceramic treatment.
Debris in the engine was reduced by 50~90%: Refer the oil analysis testing
Flow through oil galleries improves as sludge is removed: Engines get cleaned
Sludge can not stick to a coated surface: Engines stay clean
A clean running motor will result in a clean engine
Lubrication is improved: The rings get freed up.
This is the kind of lubrication you need to avoid the kinds of problems you are complaining about.
:-)
@@MichaelCzajkaI understand: what treatment is this? Can you send me an email with details please?
@@PIRASMotorsport I've sent you an email about the metal treatment.
It requires only a single application
:-)
@@MichaelCzajka Thankyou, I had a look
Had it happen to me, was cruising chill @ 120kmh, going to spectate some local hill climb event here, I gave it some gas to pass (half throttle) as the car in front switched lanes, no crazy kickdown or anything and kaboom. RIP 300k km's EA113 BYD tfsi. The detonation was so bad that the spark plug tip broke, injector tip got damaged and valve cap literally broke and was sitting on the piston (i could not stop so went on for like 2kms more which didn't help). I'm using Motul 8100 Power 5w40 now, which is API SP on this new (second hand) CDLA engine.
Hopefully it won't do it again as the costs were terrible (nothing like new gen stuff but 3k euro is 3k euro). Missed the fkn hill climb also :D
Sorry for that horror story you had to live thru man, really terrible!
Will there be any major recall for the first generations and all of the cars that have the old pistons?
We are hoping so, but they are doing everything to show lower numbers than actual in order not to recall
So is this officially worse than the GR86 situation now? This seems like an unbelievable oversight that should have come up during testing.
It is a situation, not the worst out there…
They should have just given it a 4th piston instead of overengineering it.
Yes
Looks like the same spot my engine blew a hole in itself too. Blow by makes sense with the misfiring issues I had paired with my exhaust always smelling so strongly of gas
Yes, but gas smell from exhaust sounds more like an injector stuck open to me
@@PIRASMotorsport I suspect it was a combination of both for mine considering how rapidly it all came apart. The smell was only noticeable at idle for mine and it only misfired on cylinder 2. Wish I could figure out what became of that car so I could try to get my hands on the engine
@@wolf-eat-tigerwhere is the engine?
@@PIRASMotorsport idk it was bought off auction after the fire and I’ve been unable to track it
@wolf-eat-tiger sorry about that…