Big help, thanks for this! I acquired a car with a damaged motor and also another damaged motor as spares, although the damage appears to be catastrophic to both so it was good to see you fully disassemble and know there are no shortcuts to getting the crank out :( I was hoping heads could stay on. What a shame! Thanks again.
How do you not have more subscribers, this was an incredible tool for taking my engine apart, however I wish I saw part one before cause I wish I realized I could take the intake manifold off with all that jazz attached. The pain lol
That’d be REALLY helpful. I just got done assembling mine. I’ve already put it in, but it’s not starting. So seeing a video that like this for the assembly would be a big help. Help me figure out where I went wrong
I will be building up this used FA20 shortly, did you put the crankshaft position sensor plate back in the correct orientation? It's between the crank and the flywheel.
I was wondering if it even makes sense to change the rod bearings preventative, and if so, what else on the way would have to go just to disassemble the upper oil pan?
Really struggling with those rod bolts 😅 I find it easier to break the bolts if you pull towards yourself so you can brace the engine against your body. Especially when on an engine stand with wheels.
Good video! Correct me if I'm wrong but you could have knocked the wrist pins out of the rod/cylinders before taking the rods off the crank. May have been easier. At least that's how it is on EJs. 🤷♂
Bro I was working on one of these on day and as soon as I yanked the cam carrier all the arms and buckets flew to the floor we were all like OH OOOHHHHHHH!!!!!
They would remove the heads and only fix what was needed; it would be a good time to check but the extra labor hours and procedure aren't there to my knowledge.
Broo. I hope I never end up in your shoes but if I do I know I'll be referencing this video, so thank you. I guess all I'd really need to add to my toolbox for this job is an engine lift...
Great time lapse, thank you! Out of curiosity, why did you push the pistons and rods out by hand rather than by turning the crank to at least get them out as far as possible?
Looking at the service manual, they do mention removing the end cap then rotating the crank like you suggested. Good catch, I ended up just guiding them out by hand, probably why it was a little bit tougher to remove. I was getting excited to see if the crank could be reused and rushed, unfortunately it looks like it's too heavily damaged.
I will be leaving the shims, taking measurements, and replacing as needed to keep within specification. Highway use motors are highly unlikely to need much adjustment if any; I don't anticipate needing to replace them but will if needed.
You can get to #2 and #3. I had really bad rod knock on #2, I polished crank journal best I could but still saw a little damage. I put a new bearing in it anyways for fun and ran it for 10min. Started knocking after 10 min of running. The engine is out now and I am going to tear it down using this video. Hopefully my crank is ok, if not, will try to get one from subaru.
Google "brz service manual demos"; I don't think can link the site but there's a link in the first fa20club post, let me know if you've found what you're looking for.
Hey Mark I noticed in your videos you referencing something you have printed out. I'm just about to embark on disassembling my rod knock motor and your video is really taking the fear out of me but I was wondering if you could link me to what you have printed out in case it has diagrams and torque specs. Great video btw.
Not sure I can really link it directly without getting in trouble but here's the Google search: "ft86club demos manual" let me know if you find the repository with the factory service manual.
@@MarkMethods thanks mark I appreciate the reply. This video has helped me alot. Had to figure out the 12 mm 12 point socket for the block bolts you held it up to the camera but it was in fast mode lolol
Mark Methods I’m in Las Vegas, but I can ship it. It has nothing wrong with it. My buddy at the dealership got it because insurance got him an entire new engine because Carmax couldn’t figure out a solenoid issue so the insurance gave Subaru money for a new engine and it only had like 20k miles or something. Everything is in excellent condition.
Shoot me over how much they're looking for shipped to NJ; I'll provide some more details in email. mark@markmethods.com always appreciate leads on parts.
Make sure there is no scarring on the lobes, I wouldn't be concerned using them again; that's what I'll be doing in my build. Make sure they're clean though and give everything you reuse has been cleaned and inspected extremely closely though if you're donor had a spun bearing. I've ordered a new crankshaft a week ago; discussed with a few shops/builders who said not to grind the crankshaft due to concerns of failure.
@@MarkMethods i have a pro iag gold shop building my block everything but the cam gears are new. They said they were in amazing shape and there was no reason to get new one. But using an iag stage 3 closed deck block and stage 5 heads. Thank you for the information i will make sure that inspection and cleaning was done properly. The block they came off was still running strong i just pulled it for a built block and more power lol
Very cool! I'm sure it'll work out. What are your power goals and application? That sounds like some serious potential for whatever you're looking to do.
@@MarkMethods so first go around I'm shooting for 520ish but with the fa20dit fueling becomes an issue at that point so ive upgraded what can be done to stock fueling and see if it helps then i just want to run it there for a bit make sure the build is solid. Then about a month later I'm going full level 3 Motec ECU and adding hybrid port injection. I have the wrx with the fa20dit and ill be shooting for 700+ and see what happens
That's a sweet build, if you've got an Instagram or something where you're posting let me know; I'd love to see where you get to. Any plans to upgrade the transmission? I have one sitting in my shed because I know the BRZ tend to blow up past 400 whp.
No it didn't lol, I struggled off camera because I left a bolt in that I missed; it should come off easily once they're all removed though, once you pry a little on the cover *carefully* run a razor between the gap and it'll let loose easy.
I wanted to, had all the parts and started the process; been rethinking my approach with the kmiata K24 swap. More potential reliable power/torque and cheaper to replace motor is tough to argue. But with car prices being so elevated I may set it to stock and sell the BRZ and think about my next car. So many options.
@@MarkMethods understood, im on backorder on everything. I was hoping to catch more content. Love your approach, and vids. Good luck on your other build.
Working on sourcing a crankshaft; probably going to need to buy a new one as every used one I've received has been damaged and these shouldn't be cut. Hopefully I'll get some more FA20 content out once this pandemic calms down.
Make sure you change your PCV valve at 15,000 miles and your VVT filters if your doing the timing chain or VVT sprockets those pos are notorious for damaging engines and change your oil at 3,000 miles those engines are nothing but oil sludge machines
how smart ya gotta be to put a pin in the engine stand so the motor doesn't keep spinning when he was trying to break head bolts loose. then using a screwdriver to pry apart the cam carriers from head then again prying the head off block. smh
@@MarkMethods I know the reasons why this bastardization of the English language has happened, but maybe you should check the etymology of the word motor and maybe you might get it??? Since you are working on cars I got three words for you, Internal Combustion Engine.
I studied Latin for a few years, I totally get the argument; English is difficult enough already and I consider this a superfluous nuances of language. Should we write a letter to Ford Motor Company, General Motors, your local Department of Motor Vehicles, or Bavarian Motor Works and asking them to change their name?
@@MarkMethods because those are names that have inference to causing or imparting motion. Charlotte Motor Speedway is a track made of wiper motors, sunroof motors or power seat motors then? Obviously not, vehicles are in motion around the track.....hard face palm guy, especially since you studied Latin. Been a tech for both Ford and Toyota and never have I once seen a manual refer to an engine as a motor.......especially when dealing with hybrids. There is a difference.
@@rkratz2924 Multiple times I have recognized in our conversation that there is a difference between motor and engine and never once denied that, thanks for stopping by and good luck on your future projects!
Finally, someone that made it easy for me to follow along.
Glad it helped out!
@@MarkMethods great vidz man,watching from an island in the Indian Ocean
Thanks a ton for filming this! First time doing the head gaskets and I'm still pretty green at doing car maintenance!
Big help, thanks for this! I acquired a car with a damaged motor and also another damaged motor as spares, although the damage appears to be catastrophic to both so it was good to see you fully disassemble and know there are no shortcuts to getting the crank out :( I was hoping heads could stay on. What a shame! Thanks again.
Thanks man! I got done stripping the engine earlier today and will be splitting it tomorrow afternoon !! This was highly helpful!
Dude ik u probably forgot about this video, but i wish I could tell u how much u helped me rn
Glad it was helpful!
Are you going to do a follow up of the assembly of the fa20?
How do you not have more subscribers, this was an incredible tool for taking my engine apart, however I wish I saw part one before cause I wish I realized I could take the intake manifold off with all that jazz attached. The pain lol
Forged internals install please
That’d be REALLY helpful. I just got done assembling mine. I’ve already put it in, but it’s not starting. So seeing a video that like this for the assembly would be a big help. Help me figure out where I went wrong
I will be building up this used FA20 shortly, did you put the crankshaft position sensor plate back in the correct orientation? It's between the crank and the flywheel.
I like how you loosen those off in a cross bolt pattern. Good workmanship
I was wondering if it even makes sense to change the rod bearings preventative, and if so, what else on the way would have to go just to disassemble the upper oil pan?
Really struggling with those rod bolts 😅
I find it easier to break the bolts if you pull towards yourself so you can brace the engine against your body. Especially when on an engine stand with wheels.
What size socket did you use to take the block apart ?
Good video! Correct me if I'm wrong but you could have knocked the wrist pins out of the rod/cylinders before taking the rods off the crank. May have been easier. At least that's how it is on EJs. 🤷♂
Can you tell me where the Subaru 2014 Vvt filter is located? 2.0 2014
Harbor freight sells plastic containers that you can individually put the rocker arms and buckets away
That's a great way to keep organized, might have to see if I can pick some up.
Bro I was working on one of these on day and as soon as I yanked the cam carrier all the arms and buckets flew to the floor we were all like OH OOOHHHHHHH!!!!!
Salut pour caler le clage est ce que les piston sont aligner ou bien j'ai problème avec le vilebrequin
Is the crank sprocket pressed on ? I ordered a short block from Subaru and haven’t received it yet.
Hey this was a little bit ago but my crank pulley hub is stuck in the crank. Any tips
Hi , would a valve spring recall involve changing the Conrod bearings ? If not , then would they check them as part of the job ?
They would remove the heads and only fix what was needed; it would be a good time to check but the extra labor hours and procedure aren't there to my knowledge.
What size and type of socket was it for the case halfs it was a bit to fast to pause
what bolt did you use for the engine stand?
great job well done mate
Hey Mark! Do you remember what size bolt you removed at 18:14? Excuse my lack of knowledge as a novice here pleaseeee
Broo. I hope I never end up in your shoes but if I do I know I'll be referencing this video, so thank you. I guess all I'd really need to add to my toolbox for this job is an engine lift...
Great time lapse, thank you!
Out of curiosity, why did you push the pistons and rods out by hand rather than by turning the crank to at least get them out as far as possible?
Looking at the service manual, they do mention removing the end cap then rotating the crank like you suggested. Good catch, I ended up just guiding them out by hand, probably why it was a little bit tougher to remove. I was getting excited to see if the crank could be reused and rushed, unfortunately it looks like it's too heavily damaged.
Did you ever have to play with the valve shims at all? And specific placement?
I will be leaving the shims, taking measurements, and replacing as needed to keep within specification. Highway use motors are highly unlikely to need much adjustment if any; I don't anticipate needing to replace them but will if needed.
Where did you find the manual for the tear down? I have to take my fa20dit apart this week to do the valve seals unfortunately
Is it possible to change rod bearing without disassembly
I don't think so imo, it would be really tough to roll them out if not impossible.
You can get to #2 and #3. I had really bad rod knock on #2, I polished crank journal best I could but still saw a little damage. I put a new bearing in it anyways for fun and ran it for 10min. Started knocking after 10 min of running. The engine is out now and I am going to tear it down using this video. Hopefully my crank is ok, if not, will try to get one from subaru.
What is the valve clearance at the outlet and inlet? FB20B
Where did you get your service manual from? For the step by step on breaking down assembling torque specs etc?
Google "brz service manual demos"; I don't think can link the site but there's a link in the first fa20club post, let me know if you've found what you're looking for.
What size bolts are the head bots and the bolts to take off the rods?
Hey Mark I noticed in your videos you referencing something you have printed out. I'm just about to embark on disassembling my rod knock motor and your video is really taking the fear out of me but I was wondering if you could link me to what you have printed out in case it has diagrams and torque specs.
Great video btw.
Not sure I can really link it directly without getting in trouble but here's the Google search: "ft86club demos manual" let me know if you find the repository with the factory service manual.
@@MarkMethods found it, thanks bud
What were you doing with the roller rockers when you looked at then and put then bCk. Just inspecting?
Taking a look to make sure metal hadn't damaged the rollers; still need to pull the cam caps to get a better look at the cams.
@@MarkMethods thanks mark I appreciate the reply. This video has helped me alot. Had to figure out the 12 mm 12 point socket for the block bolts you held it up to the camera but it was in fast mode lolol
@@MarkMethods I literally just pulled those 10 long block bolts and iam about to start malleting the block apart
Where is this build at now? I’d like to see an updated video
Been stuck finding a crank; I'm going to bite the bullet this week and order a new one.
Mark Methods I have a complete short block with super low miles if you’re interested in buying
Might be interested depending on location lol, did this have a spun bearing?
Mark Methods I’m in Las Vegas, but I can ship it. It has nothing wrong with it. My buddy at the dealership got it because insurance got him an entire new engine because Carmax couldn’t figure out a solenoid issue so the insurance gave Subaru money for a new engine and it only had like 20k miles or something. Everything is in excellent condition.
Shoot me over how much they're looking for shipped to NJ; I'll provide some more details in email. mark@markmethods.com always appreciate leads on parts.
So would you be able to reuse cam gears on a built block if the stock motor didnt have engine failure and only had 30k on it?
Make sure there is no scarring on the lobes, I wouldn't be concerned using them again; that's what I'll be doing in my build. Make sure they're clean though and give everything you reuse has been cleaned and inspected extremely closely though if you're donor had a spun bearing.
I've ordered a new crankshaft a week ago; discussed with a few shops/builders who said not to grind the crankshaft due to concerns of failure.
@@MarkMethods i have a pro iag gold shop building my block everything but the cam gears are new. They said they were in amazing shape and there was no reason to get new one. But using an iag stage 3 closed deck block and stage 5 heads. Thank you for the information i will make sure that inspection and cleaning was done properly. The block they came off was still running strong i just pulled it for a built block and more power lol
Very cool! I'm sure it'll work out. What are your power goals and application? That sounds like some serious potential for whatever you're looking to do.
@@MarkMethods so first go around I'm shooting for 520ish but with the fa20dit fueling becomes an issue at that point so ive upgraded what can be done to stock fueling and see if it helps then i just want to run it there for a bit make sure the build is solid. Then about a month later I'm going full level 3 Motec ECU and adding hybrid port injection. I have the wrx with the fa20dit and ill be shooting for 700+ and see what happens
That's a sweet build, if you've got an Instagram or something where you're posting let me know; I'd love to see where you get to. Any plans to upgrade the transmission? I have one sitting in my shed because I know the BRZ tend to blow up past 400 whp.
Where’d you get your torque pattern for disassembly?
If you Google "brz service manual demos" you'll find the top ft86club post will lead to the factory manual.
The timing cover came off that easy?
No it didn't lol, I struggled off camera because I left a bolt in that I missed; it should come off easily once they're all removed though, once you pry a little on the cover *carefully* run a razor between the gap and it'll let loose easy.
@@MarkMethods thanks Mark Meathods!
How much do you charge for a teardown and rebuild?
I do this work for personal projects, haven't thought about doing it on the side although that would be fun.
Are you going to do a rebuild of this motor?
I wanted to, had all the parts and started the process; been rethinking my approach with the kmiata K24 swap. More potential reliable power/torque and cheaper to replace motor is tough to argue. But with car prices being so elevated I may set it to stock and sell the BRZ and think about my next car. So many options.
@@MarkMethods understood, im on backorder on everything. I was hoping to catch more content. Love your approach, and vids. Good luck on your other build.
👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿
Damn a lot of sticky gaskets I see you constantly checking for bolts gonna have to keep that in mind in the future lol
For sure, I didn't want to start pulling or whacking away until I was certain.
any more of the FA20 :(((((((
Working on sourcing a crankshaft; probably going to need to buy a new one as every used one I've received has been damaged and these shouldn't be cut. Hopefully I'll get some more FA20 content out once this pandemic calms down.
Part 3?)
I really need to get down to business and order a new crankshaft; been lagging behind working from home.
In part make me lost the fear o open one of those engines...
Make sure you change your PCV valve at 15,000 miles and your VVT filters if your doing the timing chain or VVT sprockets those pos are notorious for damaging engines and change your oil at 3,000 miles those engines are nothing but oil sludge machines
how smart ya gotta be to put a pin in the engine stand so the motor doesn't keep spinning when he was trying to break head bolts loose. then using a screwdriver to pry apart the cam carriers from head then again prying the head off block. smh
A motor is not an engine.
Motor and engine can be used interchangeably, I'm not getting into the semantics but they are easily found if you Google "motor vs engine".
@@MarkMethods I know the reasons why this bastardization of the English language has happened, but maybe you should check the etymology of the word motor and maybe you might get it??? Since you are working on cars I got three words for you, Internal Combustion Engine.
I studied Latin for a few years, I totally get the argument; English is difficult enough already and I consider this a superfluous nuances of language. Should we write a letter to Ford Motor Company, General Motors, your local Department of Motor Vehicles, or Bavarian Motor Works and asking them to change their name?
@@MarkMethods because those are names that have inference to causing or imparting motion. Charlotte Motor Speedway is a track made of wiper motors, sunroof motors or power seat motors then? Obviously not, vehicles are in motion around the track.....hard face palm guy, especially since you studied Latin. Been a tech for both Ford and Toyota and never have I once seen a manual refer to an engine as a motor.......especially when dealing with hybrids. There is a difference.
@@rkratz2924 Multiple times I have recognized in our conversation that there is a difference between motor and engine and never once denied that, thanks for stopping by and good luck on your future projects!