Being the owner of a 98' V70R I've found your videos invaluable, you've honestly helped save me hundreds of pounds (dollars) and I'd just like to say thank you.
Just went to the process of removing and replacing this on my pre-owned '98 v70 GLT which just rolled over 202k miles, What worked very well for me to remove the old bushing was to simply use a drift punch that I made from an old broken 3/8" drive extension and a light hammer to tap it out quite easily with little resistance. I want to use the blue polyurethane one that I got from eEuroparts because of the longer life cycle but bought the standard Volvo OE one in addition to it, just in case I don't like the results. I also have to replace the rear mount that you referred to in this video. It is in worst condition than the torque bushing which was kind of a surprise to me. When I went to do the front crank seal, I also discovered that the lower right mount is also going bad, so I am checking the subframe and all other bushings as well. As usual, you are always a great help. BTW, I discovered that the timing belt guard rail is missing and I ordered another one. Do you consider it a necessary part? I like to have everything that is supposed to be on my cars as near to original as possible because I as a Volvo enthusiast, I believe everything that was put on the car when designed and manufactured has a specific purpose, knowing what I do about the Volvo history of design and engineering. I got this one about a year ago and had to do the head gasket job and pcv system replacement. Paid someone else to do the job, supposedly a reputable service shop, and had to send or take it back about 4 times so far, which is why I do most of my own work on my cars always. I am still having to do things that I thought was done after paying more than $2,200 (yes, that's right) for the job to be done right. At least 30 years now I have owned and serviced my Volvo cars (all wagons) and this is my first v70 and 965. Keep up the good work. We have similar backgrounds and service skills.
Have to do this for my c70 this week.The actual torque arm broke where it meets the firewall mount.Talked to Robert on Facebook and he told me what to do.Thanks man.All your videos have helped me several times with my volvo.Just ordered new mounts today and 2 piece bushings along with a new upper torque arm.Looks pretty easy to do.
Fewer 850s on the road now so Tender Loving Care that you help us give is all important! Many thanks for your tips.PS doing your own work means picking up things that the "pros" miss
I fixed the rear hatch panel today and was thinking of getting this fixed too. After watching your video I'll definitely order one tomorrow morning :) Really appreciate all your video's and tips!
A salvage yard. You can google "Volvo Upper Torque Mount Bushing" and likely find some at different retailers. IPd sells a good one. If I were able, I would have purchased one from them.
I just did mine with a factory rubber one and there is a good write up using a HONDA oil filter cap ,thread rod and some washers and nuts with a round wood block....worked awesome and only cost about $10-12 bucks to make... kinda a poor mans press but work 100% I looked at the poly ones and most people said to hard you feel the motor shake so I went with the rubber one ..
Robert DIY Robert: I have a 1998 S70. Where can I buy the bushing? Mine is all teared up. Does it matter a lot if I dont change it? Great videos thanks a lot.
Pierre Tremblay EeuroParts(dot)com has them the problem is the install...remove it super ez install is like fitting a oval peg in a round hole on the stock rubber ones...this poly one install is ez but youll feel the motor shake more inside the car..
AwakeDude911 The motor doesn't shake with the solid rubber or poly ones, it creates a vibration. Most people put the new stock mount in the freezer to get it installed. If shrinks a little and goes in a lot easier.
You did it again Robert, you have been a great help! With knowing your on You Tube to help me saving me money and educating me at the same time. Please let me know if your still doing the videos? Thanks again one of your followers! Robert Gancitano
Thanks sir with your help I replaced today it was not easy but I did it I installed one piece mount without freezer and heat up anything still I have to make something to push it in I think double piece will be easy Thanks
Good video, thanks! There is an easier way to remove the bushing though, detach the blade from the metalsaw, lead it through the remainder of the bushing, reassemble the saw, it's easier sawing, then make two cuts a couple of centimeters apart, and you don't need a hammer and a screwdriver anymore!
Thank you, Robert. I read that the upper engine mount can be adjusted. If so, how? Loosen in park, drop into drive and tighten down? Anything you can add would be helpful.
Rather than replacing an original rubber mount (which has a shore hardness of 48d and is a frequent point of failure) with another OEM rubber mount of the same hardness, try making your own polyurethane mount. It's a simple process of cleaning off the inside of the base and the outside of the center metal sleeve (wire wheel or sandblasting) to make a mold, then pouring in a 2 part mixture of poly-resin, which can be found at any mold supply store. I personally use ReoFlex 60 by Smooth-On, but there are other brands that are just as good. The best part is it costs me less than 1/4 the price of the replacement part, I can customize the color (if I wish), and I get a more durable mount. One last piece of advice... do the pour on a used mount from the salvage yard because some poly-resins can take up to 48 hours to fully cure.
I just replaced one of these today.Someone had replaced the worn original with of all things a skateboard wheel which fit surprisingly well, though not well enough. I found a couple chunks of both a polyurethane mount and the original so this had been done twice before at least.
I have a 98 S70 GLT that I bought a month or 2 ago with 264k. I noticed a rattle when coasting. I found the upper mount bushing was not snug in the bracket. the rattle was from the metal bracket pinging against the metal rim of the bushing. I also noticed that the arrow was pointing FORWARD, not UP. I removed the arm and the bushing came out easily. It should not have been that easy...I noticed that the bushing has an arrow on both sides, but they point in different directions. Huh. The rubber is different on the other sides - the side that is 'disconnected'. At first I wasn't sure WHICH arrow I should use to line up with the mark on the bracket. But then I realized that it doesn't matter which side is pointing up, but that it's more important that the bushing be oriented correctly in terms of front and back. The rubber bumper that ends up front and back are different - one is clearly fatter than the other. This arrow arrangement makes sure that you get front and back correct.
FYI: I tried the Meyle bushing. It is way too thick. If you had Uncle Robert's press tool, maybe it would work. My PVC pipe ad hoc press tool didn't stand a chance. I managed to press the old bushing out and later pressed the old one back in (since the new Meyle wouldn't go in). I also tried freezing the Meyle bushing for an hour, didn't make any difference.
Thanks for laying those tools out! I've seen lists but now I know I have what I need! I have one on order and will be back Monday!! Mine is not broken, just all rubber gone. Is there a temporary fix (wrapping in a bicycle tire, lol) or something until it gets here? I am GROUNDED!
Freezing that stupid thing saved me so much headache this time around. Nice tip, and thanks for all the helpfull videos. I'm sure my s70 t5 thanks you as well.
I bought a 2 piece polyurethane kit. They are much easier to install. I have replaced it twice now and the poly one is the quietest, and I haven't had it in long so don't know about the lifespan. I know I got about 30k on the last single piece
@@RobertDIY Okay. Do you have an OEM part number or a video on how to do that? I'm unsure exactly what I need and what the procedure is, just want to make sure I get it right Thanks!
Im putting in the Blue ipd one right now. It doesnt have any arrows on it and I cant get the sucker in! I got the one side in with the flange but the other side wont cooperate. Same part number on both sides. Currently freezing the polyurethane 😥 and getting ready to torch the mount.
Thanks for the tutorial! Do I need to support the engine (with a jack) before changing this mount? (mine needs replacement rather bad) The Haynes guide states so: "attach a suitable lifting equipment [...]"
Hi Robert! I have a 1998 s70 volvo and my quest is why does the air conditioner cold air cuts off on me. I could be driving and it starts to work fine then it turns warm and then eventually or sometimes it will come back on. PLEASE advise I don't want to have to go through another summer like this. And thanks for your videos on Volvos. You have helped my husband ALOT!
I've been looking around the internet, but I haven't seen anyone mention removing the bushing mount from the top of the engine. I have a 50T shop press, and that just sounds like the easiest way to press in a new OEM bushing. But is the mount too much of a bear to remove? Or is it secured with head bolts? I'm assuming one or the other because I haven't found anyone who's done it with the engine still in the car.
I have a 06 volvo s60. not sure if I should replace.. should the top engine mount and and strut mount have play or should it be rigid with very little movement?
Louie Lee Where did you get the bushing from? It should have come with instructions. Also, the hole should be off center, put it towards the rear of the car.
Robert DIY I bought it from Ebay. I was able to put half of it in. I used sand paper to make it smaller to fit and also froze it to make it smaller. Thanks Robert. Your videos are always helpful.
Robert DIY I think I have the same bushing as Louie, though I don't want to use sandpaper...but the hole is not off center, at least eyeballing it it seems centered. I'm having trouble getting it into the mount each half keeps slipping and going cockeyed. What should I do? ps. I didn't buy mine off ebay, but eEuroparts.com
You really need a home made press or something. When I make one that is "easy" I will post it. Some people use a HEAD bolt to crank it through the hole.
Hi, I have a '98 S70 I will be replacing the Mount soon and my question was, Did you use the same bolt on the polyurethane ? that was on the rubber mount ?
Thanks a ton for posting this and all the other helpful Volvo videos, you've saved me and a lot of people much money. I was wondering your thoughts on tightening the upper engine mount while the car is in gear, (Reverse or drive) I had my mount tightened while the car was in reverse, it doesn't seem to be doing any negative that I can notice, I think I'm going to switch it back tho, please let me know what do you think, thanks.
Chris Orfali Mounts are designed to hold your engine in a certain position. I usually tighten my mounts static, with no torque on them. They will usually last longer, I think.
Hi Robert. What’s the part you used? Source? I got one from IPD and it’s much fatter on both sides and I’m having trouble getting the bracket back on it. I thought I had the wrong one but IPD says it’s correct. Thanks for the videos! You got me through a heater core and fuel pump, filter and relays.
Hi Robert. First of all, congratulations for your videos. I´m replacing my top mount in my Volvo S60, I´ve also had to cut the round piece in order to fit the two halfs. Once put in, did you notice a little play between the poly and the mount itself? I mean, In my case, I ordered it from FCPEuro, and there is some play between the poly and the hole of the mount. Thank you.
Rodrigo Espinosa I don't believe so. So many of these cars have these bushings torn out, there would be NO Volvo's left. LOL One torn bushing leads to another and causes vibrations, hard shifting (you feel the shift instead of the bushing absorbing it) and stress on other bushings/mounts.
Robert DIY lol awesome thanks for the info, love your videos I will be changing my own rotors and brakes to a bosch set I got from ipd, and am confident I can get the job done thanks to your videos
***** No I don't. But what you have to do is remove the wipers, the lower window cowl, then access the 2 bolts that hold it in place against the body, then the 1 at the front. Maybe a 15 minute job.
I ended up removing the turbo pipe and used a medium C-clamp and two metal plates to keep all things aligned as I 'pressed it in' so to speak. As easily as the drivers side slipped in I was rather surprised how tight the other side was (even without the metal bushing installed). Things were very tight on the passenger side and the metal surface was well cleaned. Great video . Cheers.
+Robert DIY dont understand really. but it has a "metal pipe" for the bolt on one half and the other half is slided on to it so it becomes 1 piece. and i cant see any markings at all, this is where i bought it and mabye the picture will be better at a computer screen. (im on my phone right now) vparts.se/se/volvo-850/sport/bussningar/polyuretan-motorbussning-undre-volvo-850-s70-v7.html
+Robert DIY hehe yeah saw it. but yeah no instruktion and I cant see any markings at all. some random small numbers but nothing that is pointed to a direction. is it posible that it is a error or something from making it? dont wanna damage my engine :)
Great video! I found that freezing the bushing didn't work for me because its colder outside than my freezer haha. I had to make a press. I used these instructions as well as this video to set the bushing. www.matthewsvolvosite.com/replace-upper-engine-mount-w-oem-bushing.html Thanks again Robert for all the help!!
![[ ออกกอง ] วัยหนุ่ม 2544 โลกหลังลูกกรง..ทัวร์กองถ่ายหนังใน "คุกของจริง" | JUSTดูIT.](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vB--aOkZCpw/mqdefault.jpg)
Being the owner of a 98' V70R I've found your videos invaluable, you've honestly helped save me hundreds of pounds (dollars) and I'd just like to say thank you.
adamxb1 You are welcome.
Just went to the process of removing and replacing this on my pre-owned '98 v70 GLT which just rolled over 202k miles, What worked very well for me to remove the old bushing was to simply use a drift punch that I made from an old broken 3/8" drive extension and a light hammer to tap it out quite easily with little resistance. I want to use the blue polyurethane one that I got from eEuroparts because of the longer life cycle but bought the standard Volvo OE one in addition to it, just in case I don't like the results. I also have to replace the rear mount that you referred to in this video. It is in worst condition than the torque bushing which was kind of a surprise to me. When I went to do the front crank seal, I also discovered that the lower right mount is also going bad, so I am checking the subframe and all other bushings as well. As usual, you are always a great help. BTW, I discovered that the timing belt guard rail is missing and I ordered another one. Do you consider it a necessary part? I like to have everything that is supposed to be on my cars as near to original as possible because I as a Volvo enthusiast, I believe everything that was put on the car when designed and manufactured has a specific purpose, knowing what I do about the Volvo history of design and engineering. I got this one about a year ago and had to do the head gasket job and pcv system replacement. Paid someone else to do the job, supposedly a reputable service shop, and had to send or take it back about 4 times so far, which is why I do most of my own work on my cars always. I am still having to do things that I thought was done after paying more than $2,200 (yes, that's right) for the job to be done right. At least 30 years now I have owned and serviced my Volvo cars (all wagons) and this is my first v70 and 965. Keep up the good work. We have similar backgrounds and service skills.
Have to do this for my c70 this week.The actual torque arm broke where it meets the firewall mount.Talked to Robert on Facebook and he told me what to do.Thanks man.All your videos have helped me several times with my volvo.Just ordered new mounts today and 2 piece bushings along with a new upper torque arm.Looks pretty easy to do.
+Jav Munguia cool, thanks for watching and sharing.
Fewer 850s on the road now so Tender Loving Care that you help us give is all important! Many thanks for your tips.PS doing your own work means picking up things that the "pros" miss
Or simply don't care about.
Doing this today on my ‘98 S70 with a new IPD poly bushing. Thanks as always Robert!
You are welcome
Yikes! Thanks for watching.
I fixed the rear hatch panel today and was thinking of getting this fixed too. After watching your video I'll definitely order one tomorrow morning :) Really appreciate all your video's and tips!
Thanks for watching.
A salvage yard. You can google "Volvo Upper Torque Mount Bushing" and likely find some at different retailers. IPd sells a good one. If I were able, I would have purchased one from them.
I just did mine with a factory rubber one and there is a good write up using a HONDA oil filter cap ,thread rod and some washers and nuts with a round wood block....worked awesome and only cost about $10-12 bucks to make...
kinda a poor mans press but work 100%
I looked at the poly ones and most people said to hard you feel the motor shake so I went with the rubber one ..
I believe most people will be happy with the standard mount up there.
Robert DIY Robert: I have a 1998 S70. Where can I buy the bushing? Mine is all teared up. Does it matter a lot if I dont change it? Great videos thanks a lot.
Pierre Tremblay EeuroParts(dot)com has them the problem is the install...remove it super ez install is like fitting a oval peg in a round hole on the stock rubber ones...this poly one install is ez but youll feel the motor shake more inside the car..
AwakeDude911
The motor doesn't shake with the solid rubber or poly ones, it creates a vibration.
Most people put the new stock mount in the freezer to get it installed. If shrinks a little and goes in a lot easier.
Same way I did it just little bit sanded it then used filter removed cap with washers and rod with patience it went all the way thanks
You did it again Robert, you have been a great help! With knowing your on You Tube to help me saving me money and educating me at the same time. Please let me know if your still doing the videos? Thanks again one of your followers! Robert Gancitano
Posting videos almost daily. Click the bell near the subscribe button and you will be notified of new posted videos.
Thanks sir with your help I replaced today it was not easy but I did it I installed one piece mount without freezer and heat up anything still I have to make something to push it in I think double piece will be easy Thanks
you are welcome.
Good video, thanks! There is an easier way to remove the bushing though, detach the blade from the metalsaw, lead it through the remainder of the bushing, reassemble the saw, it's easier sawing, then make two cuts a couple of centimeters apart, and you don't need a hammer and a screwdriver anymore!
Well, actually if you make one cut it will be enough to close the bushing and pull it out.
Thank you, Robert. I read that the upper engine mount can be adjusted. If so, how? Loosen in park, drop into drive and tighten down? Anything you can add would be helpful.
sure
Rather than replacing an original rubber mount (which has a shore hardness of 48d and is a frequent point of failure) with another OEM rubber mount of the same hardness, try making your own polyurethane mount. It's a simple process of cleaning off the inside of the base and the outside of the center metal sleeve (wire wheel or sandblasting) to make a mold, then pouring in a 2 part mixture of poly-resin, which can be found at any mold supply store. I personally use ReoFlex 60 by Smooth-On, but there are other brands that are just as good. The best part is it costs me less than 1/4 the price of the replacement part, I can customize the color (if I wish), and I get a more durable mount. One last piece of advice... do the pour on a used mount from the salvage yard because some poly-resins can take up to 48 hours to fully cure.
LOL Sounds like a lot of work for a $9 part.
I just replaced one of these today.Someone had replaced the worn original with of all things a skateboard wheel which fit surprisingly well, though not well enough. I found a couple chunks of both a polyurethane mount and the original so this had been done twice before at least.
+Oldbmwr100rs interesting.
Thanks for this, much appreciated !
You are welcome.
I have a 98 S70 GLT that I bought a month or 2 ago with 264k. I noticed a rattle when coasting. I found the upper mount bushing was not snug in the bracket. the rattle was from the metal bracket pinging against the metal rim of the bushing. I also noticed that the arrow was pointing FORWARD, not UP. I removed the arm and the bushing came out easily. It should not have been that easy...I noticed that the bushing has an arrow on both sides, but they point in different directions. Huh. The rubber is different on the other sides - the side that is 'disconnected'. At first I wasn't sure WHICH arrow I should use to line up with the mark on the bracket. But then I realized that it doesn't matter which side is pointing up, but that it's more important that the bushing be oriented correctly in terms of front and back. The rubber bumper that ends up front and back are different - one is clearly fatter than the other. This arrow arrangement makes sure that you get front and back correct.
+David Shea Glad you found the problem.
FYI: I tried the Meyle bushing. It is way too thick. If you had Uncle Robert's press tool, maybe it would work. My PVC pipe ad hoc press tool didn't stand a chance. I managed to press the old bushing out and later pressed the old one back in (since the new Meyle wouldn't go in). I also tried freezing the Meyle bushing for an hour, didn't make any difference.
Really need the press. 🤷🏾♂️
Thank you for the very detailed videos. They are informative, and easy to follow. Great job!!!
+Frank Rivera thanks for watching.
Thanks for laying those tools out! I've seen lists but now I know I have what I need! I have one on order and will be back Monday!! Mine is not broken, just all rubber gone. Is there a temporary fix (wrapping in a bicycle tire, lol) or something until it gets here? I am GROUNDED!
+SKenneyGIrl Tan people drive with those torn out all the time. Just take it easy.
Freezing that stupid thing saved me so much headache this time around. Nice tip, and thanks for all the helpfull videos. I'm sure my s70 t5 thanks you as well.
Brian Jones Good deal. The freezer never helped me. Perhaps I have had the wrong bushing supplier.
I bought a 2 piece polyurethane kit. They are much easier to install. I have replaced it twice now and the poly one is the quietest, and I haven't had it in long so don't know about the lifespan. I know I got about 30k on the last single piece
Brian Jones Oh, the 2 piece units are a lot easier to install. Poly should last 10 years.
What bushing mount do you recommend for the torque rod that connects to the firewall?
I use the OEM parts for that.
@@RobertDIY Okay. Do you have an OEM part number or a video on how to do that? I'm unsure exactly what I need and what the procedure is, just want to make sure I get it right
Thanks!
Im putting in the Blue ipd one right now. It doesnt have any arrows on it and I cant get the sucker in! I got the one side in with the flange but the other side wont cooperate. Same part number on both sides. Currently freezing the polyurethane 😥 and getting ready to torch the mount.
ouch! They should go in easy.
@@RobertDIY ended up grinding the diameter down a bit. Still went in tight but atleast I got it in!
Thanks for the tutorial! Do I need to support the engine (with a jack) before changing this mount? (mine needs replacement rather bad) The Haynes guide states so: "attach a suitable lifting equipment [...]"
***** Nope.
Robert DIY Thnx :)
Will freeze in the can work the same as putting it in the freezer if I spray on there?
I don't know, I have not tried that. You can make a press and press it in.
Hi Robert! I have a 1998 s70 volvo and my quest is why does the air conditioner cold air cuts off on me. I could be driving and it starts to work fine then it turns warm and then eventually or sometimes it will come back on. PLEASE advise I don't want to have to go through another summer like this. And thanks for your videos on Volvos. You have helped my husband ALOT!
+Anna ATANASIO th-cam.com/video/ReG1uQiMhm8/w-d-xo.html
+Anna ATANASIO I usually put the car on jack stands and install the ties that way.
I've been looking around the internet, but I haven't seen anyone mention removing the bushing mount from the top of the engine. I have a 50T shop press, and that just sounds like the easiest way to press in a new OEM bushing. But is the mount too much of a bear to remove? Or is it secured with head bolts? I'm assuming one or the other because I haven't found anyone who's done it with the engine still in the car.
th-cam.com/video/8t3_5KZfRSA/w-d-xo.html
I have a 06 volvo s60. not sure if I should replace.. should the top engine mount and and strut mount have play or should it be rigid with very little movement?
+159CHAPPELL very little play.
What if there is no arrow on the bushing? My bushing is blue and come part in half. It also has a patch of grease that came with it.
Louie Lee Where did you get the bushing from? It should have come with instructions. Also, the hole should be off center, put it towards the rear of the car.
Robert DIY
I bought it from Ebay. I was able to put half of it in. I used sand paper to make it smaller to fit and also froze it to make it smaller. Thanks Robert. Your videos are always helpful.
Robert DIY I think I have the same bushing as Louie, though I don't want to use sandpaper...but the hole is not off center, at least eyeballing it it seems centered. I'm having trouble getting it into the mount each half keeps slipping and going cockeyed. What should I do? ps. I didn't buy mine off ebay, but eEuroparts.com
You really need a home made press or something. When I make one that is "easy" I will post it. Some people use a HEAD bolt to crank it through the hole.
Hi, I have a '98 S70 I will be replacing the Mount soon and my question was, Did you use the same bolt on the polyurethane ? that was on the rubber mount ?
Yes
Thanks a ton for posting this and all the other helpful Volvo videos, you've saved me and a lot of people much money. I was wondering your thoughts on tightening the upper engine mount while the car is in gear, (Reverse or drive) I had my mount tightened while the car was in reverse, it doesn't seem to be doing any negative that I can notice, I think I'm going to switch it back tho, please let me know what do you think, thanks.
Chris Orfali Mounts are designed to hold your engine in a certain position. I usually tighten my mounts static, with no torque on them. They will usually last longer, I think.
Do you have a part number for that rear mount you say in your video is "slightly torn"? Having a hard time finding it.
+Benjamin Pina This one? www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-engine-torque-rod-mount-850-s70-v70-c70-1
Ahh...Yeah I think you're right. It's nice that one won't need pressed to add/remove.
Thanks Robert
I purchased a powerflex upper mount, but has no directional indicators... shouldnt matter which way it is inserted then?
Bunka Fas See if the hole is OFF CENTER. If so, that hole should go towards the rear of the car.
Robert DIY
Gotcha, thanks!
Hi Robert. What’s the part you used? Source? I got one from IPD and it’s much fatter on both sides and I’m having trouble getting the bracket back on it. I thought I had the wrong one but IPD says it’s correct. Thanks for the videos! You got me through a heater core and fuel pump, filter and relays.
th-cam.com/video/cKjlFyUI154/w-d-xo.html
OEM for the win!
@@RobertDIY I thought OEM was a black plastic one that had to be pressed in. Was this yellow one you used the one you found in the junkyard?
Hi Robert.
First of all, congratulations for your videos.
I´m replacing my top mount in my Volvo S60, I´ve also had to cut the round piece in order to fit the two halfs.
Once put in, did you notice a little play between the poly and the mount itself? I mean, In my case, I ordered it from FCPEuro, and there is some play between the poly and the hole of the mount.
Thank you.
+JRC I have never done that mod in an S60. You should contact FCP. I believe most of those bushings are "floating".
Thanks Robert! I will contact them.
lmao 0:57 sounds like he's saying nutsack
Thank you I enjoy your channel it is very useful
Thanks for watching
How long should I keep the replacement torque bushing in the freezer??
About an hour.
Hey robert, can driving with a torn bushing such as this be harmful to the engine in any way?
Rodrigo Espinosa I don't believe so. So many of these cars have these bushings torn out, there would be NO Volvo's left. LOL One torn bushing leads to another and causes vibrations, hard shifting (you feel the shift instead of the bushing absorbing it) and stress on other bushings/mounts.
Robert DIY lol awesome thanks for the info, love your videos I will be changing my own rotors and brakes to a bosch set I got from ipd, and am confident I can get the job done thanks to your videos
Do you have another video for replacing the rear upper mount (the cracked one in this video that you said you would likely replace later)?
***** No I don't. But what you have to do is remove the wipers, the lower window cowl, then access the 2 bolts that hold it in place against the body, then the 1 at the front. Maybe a 15 minute job.
Rob, was the bushing tight when you put the two together? I bought one and it's losey goosey.
Should be tight.
Always clear - Thanks
Thank you for watching.
Hi Robert, what are the torque values for the mount? Thanks
If it's not in the comments, I don't have them.
@@RobertDIY I found in manual, 37 ftlp
Thanks for sharing.
Those look like used poly bushings. Any advice on pressing in brand new poly's? I get the driver's side inserted np
The don't need a press.
I ended up removing the turbo pipe and used a medium C-clamp and two metal plates to keep all things aligned as I 'pressed it in' so to speak. As easily as the drivers side slipped in I was rather surprised how tight the other side was (even without the metal bushing installed).
Things were very tight on the passenger side and the metal surface was well cleaned.
Great video . Cheers.
Thanks for sharing.
Love your videos
Thanks for watching
What Bushing do you recomend now for a 2000 S70 AWD?
OEM
@@RobertDIY Thanks Robert, pretty cool your around for hacks like me!
I assume I need the whole part with just the rubber gone?
+SKenneyGIrl Tan I is very hard to replace/install. I use and sell a press to do it now.
hi Robert:) i bought that polyurethane mount but i noticed that they dont have any arrows on them.. what shall i do then?
They should have some kind of markings on them to help you with orientation. If not, is the hold center?
+Robert DIY dont understand really. but it has a "metal pipe" for the bolt on one half and the other half is slided on to it so it becomes 1 piece. and i cant see any markings at all, this is where i bought it and mabye the picture will be better at a computer screen. (im on my phone right now)
vparts.se/se/volvo-850/sport/bussningar/polyuretan-motorbussning-undre-volvo-850-s70-v7.html
+Miffokorv sorry this is the link vparts.se/se/volvo-850/sport/bussningar/polyuretan-motorbussning-ovre-volvo-850-s70-v70.html
LOL, the first one was for the transmission torque mount. If you don't see any marks, and it come with no instructions, just install it.
+Robert DIY hehe yeah saw it. but yeah no instruktion and I cant see any markings at all. some random small numbers but nothing that is pointed to a direction. is it posible that it is a error or something from making it? dont wanna damage my engine :)
thank you :)
You are welcome.
Nice quality video .. Thanks..
Thanks for watching.
Which bushing do you recommend?
Lemdorder
THANK YOU I RECENTLY PURCHASE A VOLVO AND REPLACE THE MOUNT
METROMEXTECH CRASHNBURN Good deal. Thanks for watching.
METROMEXTECH CRASHNBURN What kind of Volvo did you purchase? - th-cam.com/video/-2oIeIhpV44/w-d-xo.html
But In all seriously great video thanks a lot Rob
Great video! I found that freezing the bushing didn't work for me because its colder outside than my freezer haha. I had to make a press. I used these instructions as well as this video to set the bushing.
www.matthewsvolvosite.com/replace-upper-engine-mount-w-oem-bushing.html
Thanks again Robert for all the help!!
+Dylan Hampson I have made a press myself and now have a shop that makes them for me. I need to do the video for it.
Where'd you get this specific bushing?
a premature pop out..i hate that too...