Depends where you live. In Australia any thing less than 1M ohm is a fail (0.1M ohm on sheathed heating elements). That said if you measured under 30M ohm on a new installation I would investigate to see what the problem is becasue that may be a future problem.
I haves used the Fluke I love the test button on the leads wish Klein had them it makes it a lot easier than holding the megger in your hand the whole time
I've not used a Fluke that does sound like it would be quite a bit more convenient. I might be able to get my hands on a Fluke in the future, maybe I'll try and compare to the Klein.
More tools is more fun right? When it comes to meggers I seriously doubt anyone will have a one tool does it all type thing. The tool would start getting too bulk and cumbersome to operate.
Thank you for the video. I just bought one of these to test my Schluter Ditra heat floor cable. Per the manufacturers instructions, when testing with a megohmmeter, I am to put 1000 volts into the wire. Maybe you can help me. I’m trying to wrap my head around putting 1000 V into that wire. That’s eight times the volts of household current, yet it doesn’t harm the wire? In the instructions say to press and hold the test button, but I’m not sure how long to hold. If I don’t hold long enough, as you mentioned, I can’t complete the test. But how do I know when to release the button? Can holding it too long cause harm? If you would have time to reply, I’d really appreciate it. Thank you
Wire insulation always has a voltage spec. What is listed on the cable as the voltage spec. 500-1000v is fairly common to test at this is due to factor of safety. If it's 600v rated insulation 1000v is generally within the factor of safety of that insulation. A lot of the wire used in houses is known as Romex or type NM cable this too generally has a 600v insulation rating. The key to this is never, never have something hooked up to the cable when testing, the wire may have a factor of safety to test that high but most things you would hook up with that wire do not and the magic smoke tends to come out. The manufacturer may mention going that high but for basic trouble shooting you likely won't need to. Start at the voltage your cable will be running at on the first test, see what you have if it's grounded or compromised and it doesn't work at 120V chances are you should be able to start troubleshooting at 120V. If it tests okay at 120V double it to 240V. One of the reasons I really liked this meter is you can do lower voltage testing. For me with the older tools that was key yes the insulation should be able to handle it to a point but why risk damaging something? When you test you normally hold the button for 30 seconds to 1 minute, some cases may have you go longer but this should work for basic troubleshooting. If the reading haven't stopped changing continue. Another advantage to starting at 120 if this equipment runs on 120 is you don't have to worry about duration as much cause your already down at operating voltage and if you missed anything it should hopefully show up. This is a serious tool and you can damage things, seek out other videos or information outlining a test, specifically how to isolate what you are testing. I realize you may receive multiple different points of info but the basics will all stay the same. I am certainly not a properly certified instructor or representative on these things I can only offer what experience has given me results in the past. I don't know how decent product support is for what you are working on but an option may be trying to see if they will walk you through troubleshooting. You can say you have a megger and that will likely help out the process. You have a very valuable tool for troubleshooting but there is a process to be learned when using it. If I get a chance I will see if I can add a link here in the comments outlining more of the process but feel free to search on your own. I don't mean to scare you off but I do want you to be safe.
You can do higher voltages because the tester is what’s supplying the power, amp draw is restricted. Whereas when heater wire is connected to its power supply, it’s allowed to draw more power which then heats wire. For example what’s going on: 1000 volts @ 0.25 amp = 250 watts vs 1000 @ 5 amp = 5000 watts.
Thanks, I'm glad you liked the video! I've done some basic playing around with mine so far and it seems to work great. I have another video about testing a motor with it that I am hoping to put up soon.
Sometimes when your testing things you do a fairly long duration test. For those situations its nice to not have to continually hold in the button. Caution should always be taken when doing this due to the meter leads staying energized.
The Klein Tools MM700 is a Digital Multimeter while the ET600 is an Insulation Resistance tester. Both meters can measure both AC and DC Voltage as well as basic resistance with a continuity function. That is where the similarities end the MM700 also has a thermocouple function that allows temperature readings from 0-1500F as well as a basic current meter up to 10A, It will also measure Capacitance, Frequency and Diodes. The ET600 basically does a resistance test on steroids. What that means is it applies a higher voltage and looks for a current loss in the circuit being tested. In the ET600s case it can apply up to 1000V DC during a test while the MM700 only applies around 1.5 volts to the circuit. Think of it like doing a leakage test on either a pneumatic or hydraulic system, in order to test the factor of safety of a system you test it a higher pressure than normal operations would achieve. I know this is a fairly long winded response. I have a Klein Multimeter similar to the MM700 if not the MM700 I cant remember. If your interested maybe sometime I could try and show both in a video and try and explain it a little better. Bottom line the ET600 is a fairly specialized tool designed for mainly one specific test where the MM700 is more of a tool that fits multiple needs.
No problem I will see what I can do. Wayne had a great video idea also. I'd like to try and do them both I'm just not sure on a timeframe. Keep tabs on the channel I'll get to them!
I have this meter and it’s awsome. They come with way better crocodile clips now.
That's great to know, maybe I'll try and get a set of the newer leads so we can compare.
@@TalkingHandsTools yeah you will like these better they are a legitimate crocodile clip now
I'll check it out. Thank you for the heads up.
Great for residential and commercial hvac/r!!!!!
Ditch the supco and get this!!!
That is the reason for me to buy it
What would be a bad insulation resistance with this tester? On residential wiring??
Depends where you live. In Australia any thing less than 1M ohm is a fail (0.1M ohm on sheathed heating elements). That said if you measured under 30M ohm on a new installation I would investigate to see what the problem is becasue that may be a future problem.
I haves used the Fluke I love the test button on the leads wish Klein had them it makes it a lot easier than holding the megger in your hand the whole time
I've not used a Fluke that does sound like it would be quite a bit more convenient. I might be able to get my hands on a Fluke in the future, maybe I'll try and compare to the Klein.
I just purchased this one yesterday . Can’t wait to test it out . Also ordered a amp reader since this can’t do it. :(
More tools is more fun right? When it comes to meggers I seriously doubt anyone will have a one tool does it all type thing. The tool would start getting too bulk and cumbersome to operate.
@@TalkingHandsTools , moor tools more fun. But more stuff to haul around lol.
Thank you for the video. I just bought one of these to test my Schluter Ditra heat floor cable. Per the manufacturers instructions, when testing with a megohmmeter, I am to put 1000 volts into the wire. Maybe you can help me. I’m trying to wrap my head around putting 1000 V into that wire. That’s eight times the volts of household current, yet it doesn’t harm the wire? In the instructions say to press and hold the test button, but I’m not sure how long to hold. If I don’t hold long enough, as you mentioned, I can’t complete the test. But how do I know when to release the button? Can holding it too long cause harm? If you would have time to reply, I’d really appreciate it. Thank you
Wire insulation always has a voltage spec. What is listed on the cable as the voltage spec. 500-1000v is fairly common to test at this is due to factor of safety. If it's 600v rated insulation 1000v is generally within the factor of safety of that insulation. A lot of the wire used in houses is known as Romex or type NM cable this too generally has a 600v insulation rating. The key to this is never, never have something hooked up to the cable when testing, the wire may have a factor of safety to test that high but most things you would hook up with that wire do not and the magic smoke tends to come out.
The manufacturer may mention going that high but for basic trouble shooting you likely won't need to. Start at the voltage your cable will be running at on the first test, see what you have if it's grounded or compromised and it doesn't work at 120V chances are you should be able to start troubleshooting at 120V. If it tests okay at 120V double it to 240V. One of the reasons I really liked this meter is you can do lower voltage testing. For me with the older tools that was key yes the insulation should be able to handle it to a point but why risk damaging something?
When you test you normally hold the button for 30 seconds to 1 minute, some cases may have you go longer but this should work for basic troubleshooting. If the reading haven't stopped changing continue. Another advantage to starting at 120 if this equipment runs on 120 is you don't have to worry about duration as much cause your already down at operating voltage and if you missed anything it should hopefully show up.
This is a serious tool and you can damage things, seek out other videos or information outlining a test, specifically how to isolate what you are testing. I realize you may receive multiple different points of info but the basics will all stay the same. I am certainly not a properly certified instructor or representative on these things I can only offer what experience has given me results in the past. I don't know how decent product support is for what you are working on but an option may be trying to see if they will walk you through troubleshooting. You can say you have a megger and that will likely help out the process. You have a very valuable tool for troubleshooting but there is a process to be learned when using it. If I get a chance I will see if I can add a link here in the comments outlining more of the process but feel free to search on your own. I don't mean to scare you off but I do want you to be safe.
@@TalkingHandsTools thank you for your detailed and thoughtful response.
You can do higher voltages because the tester is what’s supplying the power, amp draw is restricted. Whereas when heater wire is connected to its power supply, it’s allowed to draw more power which then heats wire. For example what’s going on: 1000 volts @ 0.25 amp = 250 watts vs 1000 @ 5 amp = 5000 watts.
How can I do continuity why it doesn't beep
You can check continuity with the ohm meter function. Unfortunately this meter does not beep but it will read the resistance.
Great video, I actually just bought this megger 2 days ago. Great price consider what fluke and megger cost. Thanks again.
Thanks, I'm glad you liked the video! I've done some basic playing around with mine so far and it seems to work great. I have another video about testing a motor with it that I am hoping to put up soon.
Why do you need to press lock button ?
Sometimes when your testing things you do a fairly long duration test. For those situations its nice to not have to continually hold in the button. Caution should always be taken when doing this due to the meter leads staying energized.
does it do DAR and PI?
No this is more of an economy model. It has nice features for what you pay but if you need those functions unfortunately this isn't the model for you.
what's the difference between the mm700?
The Klein Tools MM700 is a Digital Multimeter while the ET600 is an Insulation Resistance tester. Both meters can measure both AC and DC Voltage as well as basic resistance with a continuity function. That is where the similarities end the MM700 also has a thermocouple function that allows temperature readings from 0-1500F as well as a basic current meter up to 10A, It will also measure Capacitance, Frequency and Diodes. The ET600 basically does a resistance test on steroids. What that means is it applies a higher voltage and looks for a current loss in the circuit being tested. In the ET600s case it can apply up to 1000V DC during a test while the MM700 only applies around 1.5 volts to the circuit. Think of it like doing a leakage test on either a pneumatic or hydraulic system, in order to test the factor of safety of a system you test it a higher pressure than normal operations would achieve. I know this is a fairly long winded response. I have a Klein Multimeter similar to the MM700 if not the MM700 I cant remember. If your interested maybe sometime I could try and show both in a video and try and explain it a little better. Bottom line the ET600 is a fairly specialized tool designed for mainly one specific test where the MM700 is more of a tool that fits multiple needs.
@@TalkingHandsTools Thanks, I appreciate the detailed explanation. A video would be fantastic.
No problem I will see what I can do. Wayne had a great video idea also. I'd like to try and do them both I'm just not sure on a timeframe. Keep tabs on the channel I'll get to them!
Show how it works.
I do a full test on a three phase motor with this meter in another video. I believe it's called motor testing 101.
I can do a lot of bad things with this tool.............SOLD