C7 Z06 Comprehensive Engine Removal with Shortcuts
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 พ.ย. 2024
- A very long comprehensive C7 Z06 engine removal video where I show you my shortcuts that help me remove and install engines. I have removed and installed a GenV LT4 engine 4 times so I have some experience. I hope to show you some shortcuts and easier ways to make the experience much easier than it would be otherwise. I also talk about other upgrades I have done that make the video quite long, but hang in there because it will help you if you ever need to pull a C7 engine out. I hope this helps as there are not many if any complete engine removal videos out there on TH-cam for C7s.
Watching this in Nov 2024! I think Mike your tip on dropping it on the bolts may help me avoid pulling the engine out! I had a small fire and it burned the harness so need to install a new one and reallllllllly don’t want to pull the engine out for it.
I hope this helps you my friend. What harness did you burn? Happy to help if you need.
I realize how easy my ZL1 is to work on after spending some time under your Vette. Thanks for the tour.
My buddy had an oil pump go out in his new ZL1. Hate it for him. But he’s doing trunion upgrade, cam, Katech oil pump, lots of goodies. And yes probably a bit more room to work!
Going to have to tear mine down to replace a spun rod bearing this is going to be very helpful! Watched it 3 times now just keep taking notes.
Happy to help just message me.
Our builds are very similar. Mine will be an auto. I will be installing a procharger, secondary fuel system, cam, upgraded trunnions etc. Did you use the system from Crawford with the Fore systems in tank fuel pumps? He got a version 3 that supposed to make it easier to install. Mine should be arriving in a couple of weeks. Is yours version 2? Thanks!
Crawford yes with boost control option, and secondary fuel pump control. I did a secondary (not fore) where I cut a hole in the tank. I have pics. It was a billet sandwich type unit. Then I used a MagnaFuel 750 (good for 2000 horse) secondary, with -8an feed (all the length of car), and -6 return. I combined up front with a Y (fore), with one-way to prevent back flow, and then went to a -10 out, to a 4 port Fore -10an in, and 2 -8an outs (one for port, one for HPFP). I also ran my flex fuel inline after my regulator, with a billet bypass around the flex sensor for high flow (it's only -6an by itself). You should be able to find vids of my fuel system up front.
Great videos, can I ask you if you have a video on disassembly. Cardan shaft from C7 ? Thanks Jarda
Can you provide more details please? I can help if I know more.
Thank u for your time I got a 2016 corvette in da middle of taking da engine out I got everything unhook got a 1inch gap between engine and bell house and it seems like it’s stuck u don’t have an idea on what it can be
Must be hanging up on the splines of the output shaft. Make sure the engine and torque tube are as perfectly level as possible. Don't force it you should be able to wiggle the engine right off the shaft, if it's aligned properly. Any luck yet?
Hi Michael, very close to pulling my LT4. Video is very helpful. It looks like you were able to leave the AC connected. I looks possible. Can you verify?
Yes you can leave the AC hooked up, just leave it to the side. But be super careful obviously. Also when you install, ensure the AC line coming off the compressor isn't too close to your headers. You can bend it just a bit, which I did, and I put head shielding around it.
For a Clutch install. Do you think it would be easier to pull the engine or remove the rear sub frame, tranny, torque tube?
It’s what the mechanic is most familiar with. I can pull these motors pretty fast. But you can also drop the rear subframe trans torque tube also. I usually take advantage of having the motor out and doing other mods at the same time. Same can apply for pulling the trans.
Curious what is the measurement between your max jax posts outside plates for the c7? I’m considering them but limited in space. So what would be your measurement from outside plate to outside most plate measurement if you don’t mind?
Oh boy well I just moved so I took down my setup and haven't put it up yet. I do know after installing 3 (2 post) lifts I know without a doubt getting the width perfect for your application (car/truck) is key. Obviously the further apart the more stress you put on the lift, but it also provides you more room to open doors, etc. I usually try to ensure ample room to open both doors so go to the half way point of your jack points, open your doors, measure the width from open door to open door, intersecting at the mid point of your jack points. My first lift is a 9' 2 post it could handle more weight but it had a strict set width b/c it used a cable system for balance. The max jax doesn't have that so just try to stay close to what the recommend, but you do have some room to play and give yourself more space.
Awesome video, there a lot of nice tips in here. Where did you get the header stud bolts?
Summit or Jegs sell them. I will have to lookup the exact part number. Will get back to you.
@@MichaelBrownPlus Thank you! I just looked on Jegs. Is it part #434-1401 - "ARP SBC 6.2L LT1 SS 12PT header stud kit"? Thanks for your time
Hey about to pull my engine, im not sure if i missed it in the video, but i know autos have those 6 bolts from the fly wheel to the playe in the bellhousing, what do you remove to get a manual out with the clutch attatched like you did? Not sure if i missed it in the video i was skipping around to find it but couldnt. Btw your vids help a lot
You don't remove anything. The driveshaft output (with splines) will pull out of the flywheel housing from the torque tube. When you remove the engine it's critical to support the torque tube (raise it up as much as you can so the angle of it allows you to have the engine raised more in the engine bay). The engine has to be perfectly lined up with the torque tube, or the shaft will bind. If you have them aligned, you can wiggle the engine back and forth while pulling, and the engine will slip away from the torque tube housing. Again the driveshaft end with splines will slide out of the flywheel (with clutch assembly attached). The clutch is meaningless, you just worry about sliding the engine off the shaft without binding.
Also, once you break free, make sure you don't bang the engine back and forth on the driveshaft output. It can nail the fingers on the pressure plate and bend them.
Awesome thanks for the quick response, so just the bellhousing bolts to the engine and shes free from that area.
Engine came right out thanks! Now for the install, anything i should lookout for? Ive read something about preload but not sure
@@christiansanchez8736 yes. Remove the bellhousing bolts. The engine will slide right out as you now know.
When your motor locked up on you did you had to replace the crank and block?
My stock motor spun a bearing. Bent a few rods and cracked piston skirts. Not surprised with the power it was pushing. My first 416 had a faulty crank. It snapped literally when idling on my lift when I was doing oil cooler mods. I knew something was off in both events because my oil pressure kept dropping over time. And getting down to 5psi at idle. Not good. So when my stock motor went I could have just rebuilt the stock block. The block is fine I sold it with my car. When the crank snapped on the first 416 Texas Speed had to scrap everything and rebuilt me a brand new motor from scratch. They really stepped up. Not many shops would do that. So hopefully that answers your question since I’ve had two motors go on me. My second 416 was a beast. I had a Katech high flow oil pump and dedicated 3 pass improved racing oil cooler setup dumping the stock system. Oil pressure at idle was high 30s. And 75+ at wot. Very healthy and put down 1150 wheel at 23lbs of boost. Redline at 7200. I just sold it the new owner is loving it actually had the car painted all touched up new carbon and cosmetic additions I never got around to doing.
My car recently blew the 350amp fuse first i thought it was a bad wire but everything checked out fine til i tried to spin the motor at the crank and it would not turn, bought a couple of 350 fuses and would burn them off ass soon as i pushed the start button i have a 2015 m7 ,thank you for the reply and great video
@@jorgesilva890 yeah so what’s happening is that 350 am fuse not only feeds the main fuse box under the hood it also feeds directly to the starter. So when you try to start your motor it’s locked up immediately pulling over 350 amps from the starter working too hard. I know that all too well. Yeah unfortunately you will need to yank the motor and either rebuild or upgrade. Hate to hear that sorry my friend.
@jorgesilva890 welcome and happy to help if you need.
@@MichaelBrownPlus thank you sir
Hey how many inches would you say the cradle is lowered?
I spoke to you a few weeks ago. I did the stage 2 cam, all the pulleys , fuel system , valve train. Guess what. Now there is a rod knock FML #8 cylinder.
Easily 2.5 to 3” but if you need more you can by using longer bolts. I’m not sure of the size and tread pitch just measure it. Only thing is being careful you don’t drop it too far where torque tube angles are too much. I’ve seen others drop it pretty far.
I’m just trying to get the oil pan out. How did you get the pan off the block. I have all the bolts out and it’s sealed with GMS. It’s doesn’t want to move
@@drewc4311 if you watch my updated oil pan video I have two vids about oil pan I think. There is a lip on the front of the oil pan right to the left of the front pulley. Take a long 3/8 extension bar and put one end on the oil pan lip, hit the extend with a rubber mallet the front of the oil pan will pop right down.
@@MichaelBrownPlus mike thanks bruh…..
so oil pan is tilted down in the rear, But I can’t get the front of it out because the DSX lower pulley has more of a lip than factory balancer. It’s like the pan is stuck between the pulley and the oil pump. FML!!!!
Anyways. I was able to get my hand in there and pull the cap of #8 rod. Bearing is done. The bearing has a slight blue color to that journal. It got hot for sure!!
Ok so now, put everything back together, in the bottom, lower my lift and pull the motor for from the top for further disassembly. Ever hear of MURPHYs Law?
I just can’t win !!
@@drewc4311 man sorry to hear that but I’ve been there multiple times my friend. Just keep your head up and focus on the finish line. Did you ever see my vid or understand what I meant about tapping the oil pan lip at the front of the block? Regardless most always you have to take the front pulley off it catches the front lip of the oil pan. That’s common so don’t feel bad. And yeah at this point just put a couple bolts back in the pan and pull the motor. You are already on your way anyway with lowering the k member. That will help ya get to some of the bellhousing bolts. If you find me on Facebook DM me I can shoot you my number. Michael Ray Brown is my full name.
Very good review mike
Thank you its tough doing the work and trying to record so it's not professional by any means, but hopefully it will help someone out there since I couldn't find any vids showing key information for engine removal. Take care!
Is your garage inside a steel factory?
No just a normal garage I have and I also have a 9’ lift in a separate shop. But nothing special.
Getting ready to re-install my lt4 with a triple disk clutch, did you measure the crankshaft end play (Like done on A8s) or anything like that with a manual trans? Or is it a simple drop-in? Don't want to wipe out my thrust bearing... thanks Mike
Not required for an M7. Just put a new pilot bearing and slide the engine on the output shaft of the trans. Texas Speed does balance the entire assembly including the crankshaft separately as well. Make sure you do a 4' stainless braided speed bleeder on your slave cylinder. Makes it easy to bleed (literally 5 mins) without having to remove the trans or engine again.
What triple disk did you go with
@@drewc4311 monster went together no issues
@@drewc4311 Mantic with billet flywheel
We’re there any torque converter bolts
This is an M7.
It would be attached to the trans in the rear of the car. No need to remove it. Of course, A8s only.
It was fast enough from the factory. Why all the effort and money just to gain minimal performance increase? I've raced C7 Z06's in my stock C7 grand sport and have always been right on their tail. Such huge diminishing returns due to wind resistance unless you're running 2000 hp.
Must be heat soak then. GM motors having a bunch of potential. I'd said the most between them and the other 2.
@@6thgenbang ok clown. Keep coping. Doesn't matter if the Z06 had 1,000,000 hp, only about 400hp is getting to the ground until about 200 mph. Thats why my GS can keep up.
@@pizzaparty-r1c I just checked all of your comments are nothing but trolling. Absolutely zero positive substance to our corvette community. And the comment above saying anything above 400hp is unusable until 200mph?!?! WTH are you smoking? Contribute something useful or I will just block you.
Did you really just say “minimal performance increase”? Do you even understand how much 1150 wheel horsepower is? Does doubling the stock Z06 horsepower sound like a “minimal performance increase”? I get you’re trolling but damn dude you that bored?
@@MichaelBrownPlus I guess you can't comprehend tire friction, huh?