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Ok sure running amps on gas is 43.75 but let’s not forget peak amps still matter as well as ensuring the circuit can handle safely surges for an extended period of time. What other size breaker would you have used?

I hope this helps you my friend. What harness did you burn? Happy to help if you need.

?? I broke the video up into distinct sections. At 48.06 I clearly demonstrated the entire process from hooking up the generator, flipping the inter lock, and walking through my home showing it literally powering my entire home.

Much appreciated brother! Failed attempt to get my son into CAD and 3D printing lol.

Yes the AirGo is compact it’s installed inside my AC panel. Depends on your particular setup of course but I would guess it should fit. As for size of your generator I would shoot for minimum of 9500 running watts for that 4 ton unit and most of your home appliances. If you only care about your AC and fridge. You can run the microwave with the AC off, and get away with a smaller generator. Maybe around 7500 running watts. Honestly you may just have to add up your total watts and there’s also a formula to get watts from amperage and voltage. Good luck!

@ thanks a lot!! That clarify my concerns !!

Thank you brother! Yeah I get updates from the new owner quite often. They mostly just do car shows. But I do miss everything for sure! Take care!

FIrst off I said in this video many times it's my personal setup and for demonstrational purposes. And second I have 100% answered and owned every thing I missed, even torque specs of a 50amp breaker. I would expect any adult would take what they want from this as a learning experience, yet still understanding I am not a certified electrician, I say it many times in the video, and more proving the point that yes you can DIY a lot yourself, taking bits and pieces from NEC and what you see in videos/online. It's not suprising that most skip the positive things I'm showing in the video, which absolutely can help poeple, but nope, it's always 90% negative, just the world we live in. Poeple love to tear others down, not build them up. So with that said... I understand your concern, and safety is indeed paramount when it comes to electrical installations. According to the National Electrical Code (NEC), running THWN conductors through a home wall without conduit is permissible under certain conditions, and it can be done safely if all code requirements are met. NEC Article 334 allows the use of Type NM (non-metallic sheathed) cable, commonly known as Romex, within walls for residential applications. However, if you're using individual THWN conductors, they need to be installed in a raceway system as per NEC Article 300.3(A), which states that single conductors must be part of a recognized wiring method like a conduit or a raceway. In my case I didn't want to cut all my sheetrock out since I just finished this home 1.5 years ago. i also didn't want a raceway or conduit running outside my wall. I understand that this connection is only going to be used at most a few hours a year. I wanted to mount the box as close as possible for my purpose of negating the need of running conduit or a raceway, since the stud I drilled through is non load bearing (I know this b/c I build the house), there are no nails or screws to rub on. It is perfectly acceptable to drill through a non load bearing stud btw, which as I said I know has no screws or nails in at that area. And with the short run, the insulated THWN wire has aboslutely no way to rub on anything or is exposed at any significant length behind my enclosed wall. It's more of a common sense seutp for me, meaning that I know there is absolutely no way those wires are at risk of rubbing or in any way catching fire, with my exact set up. In fact, using common sense it's no more exposed than the wires literally being ran all through the break box, or 50am single wires ran all inside an HVAC panel. So sure if you want to bust my balls I can simply take that 6 inches of THWN wire and run a little 90 degree elbow of conduit. But again as Is stated in the video many times this is my setup, it's for demonstrational purposes, and honestly it was done soley to help people in the ways I was taught, by my dad, who died when I was 16, but was an excellent pipefitter/welder, and taught me how to build a home, roof a house, fit pipe, weld, do engine installs/major builds, and I'm 26 years in software design and architecture. So my vidoes clearly aren't flashy, they aren't made to make money, they aren't perfect, but as with all my corvette videos (nearly 60), I do this b/c I enjoy helping others even if ti's someone taking one small thing away. I truly appreciate those who understand that and can be respectful and nice and support those who love to learn and DIY, instead of the helpless generations of men out there who can't frame a wall, or install a sink. Long winded reply, yes, b/c I'm passionate about how this world is full of people who truly enjoy tearing others down way before they see things to build them up, first. I could have just deleted your comment, but that's not me either. So good luck I hope you might see some things in my vids that help you in some way.

Correct. I should have said 45 to 50 inch pounds. And ensured they know inch pounds, not foot pounds. I do this in my engine build vids, but yeah missed it here. Thanks for sharing.

Thank you my friend!

You 100% entitled to power your house that way in emergency situations or if you just lose power. I, personally, run a software company partially out of my home so I need the capability to do so. I have power conditioners on all my high end electronics so everything works well even on a non inverter generator. Your opinion is valid for a lot of people.

Watch full video it explains all of that. I installed an Interlock kit. Which prevents any power going down line with power being in fed by a generator.

Needs to do it where it doesn't feed back out why give power away

@robertduncan2742 how is it feeding power back out? With the interlock kit there is no possible way to back feed current. Literally impossible.

Many portable generators including this one comes with a "floating neutral" design, which means that the neutral is not bonded to the frame of the generator. In such cases, grounding may not be necessary if the generator is plugged into a grounded system like your house via a transfer switch. If you’re using the generator in standalone mode (not connected to the house’s electrical system), you would need to ground the generator by driving a grounding rod into the ground and connecting it to the generator's ground terminal (its a bit involved with doing that with the DuraMax). Electrical codes (like NEC) have specific rules regarding grounding of generators. In many areas, an electrician is required to confirm the generator grounding setup. So if you wire it up as I demonstrated you are fine, if you run extension cords in to the house then yes, you need a bonded ground. If it were me the ONLY thing I would do a bit different is possibly increase my ground size wire as per a comment below. It didn't come with the wire kit so I just went with it. I'm confident I will be fine, but I do agree the ground should in most cases match the size of the hot wires. So I may redo my ground one day. cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0613/1168/0689/files/XP13000EH_manual_rev06172022_WEB.pdf?v=1656093569

Personally I would leave the generator the way it was designed, and ensure you are wiring your transfer box properly (as you see in my vid). If you have any concerns I would call DuraMax I know they are happy to help with these questions.

From ChatGpt Omni: Floating Neutral (Recommended for Home Transfer Switch Setup) Floating neutral means the neutral is not connected to the generator’s frame. When using a transfer switch, the home’s electrical system (which is already bonded at the main service panel) handles the neutral-to-ground bonding. This ensures there is only one bonding point, which is critical for safety. In this setup, the generator acts as a supplemental power source, and the existing electrical system in the home, including grounding and bonding, takes care of the neutral-ground connection. Why it’s important: Having more than one neutral-to-ground bond (in both the home and the generator) can create electrical hazards, such as stray voltage and increased shock risk. A floating neutral generator allows the home's existing bonding system to remain in charge, ensuring a safe and properly grounded system. Conclusion: For a home transfer switch setup, it's recommended to use a floating neutral generator. The transfer switch will allow your home’s existing electrical system to handle grounding and neutral bonding safely, preventing any dangerous conditions caused by dual bonding points. Always check your local electrical codes and the manufacturer's instructions for your specific generator and transfer switch. It's also advisable to consult a licensed electrician to ensure the setup is safe and compliant with local regulations.

Please explain the exact code failure so your comment is informative, not just negative. I’m all for suggestions please be informative otherwise it’s not helpful. Also can you show some links comparing this Nema box and how it’s somehow “cheap”? Maybe compare it detail for detail against an Eaton brand? What exactly is different?

⁠​⁠@@MichaelBrownPlus a couple of your code violations: unprotected conductors, removed too much stud. Eh. Overall not the worst DIY, there’s nothing wrong with your plug and cable.

@@BlueCollarBachelor​​⁠the larger hole through my stud was done because I have also now ran more 6awg for a welding outlet. So there was no way 8 6awg wires were going to fit through an inch. Can you elaborate on exposed conductors? I don’t follow. The setup was done exactly the same as the electrician who did my breaker box.

directly connect a generator to your box is already breaking the code. lol

@@DatNguyen-sh8fv In Georgia, using a generator interlock kit to power your house is generally legal, provided it complies with local and national electrical codes. According to the National Electrical Code (NEC), the key requirement is that the interlock kit prevents the generator from backfeeding into the utility grid, which protects utility workers and prevents potential hazards. So yes it is legal and following NEC code where I live.

Nice to hear from someone with creds and lifetime experience. Thank you!

I have Duromax 13000 during MIlton It handled all my appliances including AC no problem . Overnight consumption 11hr 8 gallon of fuel with AC on. I am curious where can I find new code requirement

😊 I’m a bit of a nerd, thank you.

Yeah I see your point. I would have to pop the breaker out to give some slack. I gotcha thanks for the advice.

@@MichaelBrownPlus great video BTW

100% valid and I may actually buy that next since I want to get a 25’ lead. Right now I have 15’. It works, but I wouldn’t mind some extra play. Thanks!

@@MichaelBrownPlus watching your video, makes me want to make some changes to my own panel. Looks great.

@@oliverchumleyjohnson7070 wonderful and all the best my friend!

Yes NEC- national electric code. Tells you size requirements for ground wire based on the size of your current carrying conductor. Now i didnt pay attention(a coworker sent a link to this video) because i already know exactly what your doing because im an electrician but for a 50A breaker feeding 8 awg conductors 10awg ground is good all day. s​@MichaelBrownPlus

So I looked up the code for this and apparently for the latest GA NEC code it says this: According to NEC 250.122, for a 50-amp circuit, the ground wire (equipment grounding conductor) should be at least 10 AWG copper. This is exactly what I am doing so according to the latest NEC code for GA it is 100% valid. I just want to make sure I show exact code where I'm right, or also where I did it wrong. No problem admitting errors, but in this case the code says I am good. up.codes/s/size-of-equipment-grounding-conductors

Happy to hear it’s helpful. I know it’s long and I didn’t have my son to help me with the camera for most of it, he was pretty good at getting a great shot. Thanks brother for the compliment and good luck!

Well, technically, I don't. But I went with a second set of 18" SIgnature SV108 wheels in back, and installed some 325 MT ET Street R's (basically slicks), which helped a lot. I can dead hook from 60mph or so if I roll into it. WIth the CUP 2's, it would spin no matter what all the way up past 100mph, even shifting into 4th I've got some wheel spin at 130+, which is not fun. But yeah, the M7 and with keeping my Carbon Brakes, the best I could do was 18" MT ET Street R's.

@@jwalker8093 what’s makes all the time worth it being able to help my fellow brother! Best of luck!

@@32krazy1 not 100% sure yet. Thinking C8Z. Problem is I like to mod so it’s not that greatest platform for it. Guess time will tell!

@@MichaelBrownPlus mid mount motor makes building turbos easier so it’s just another lt platform.

@32krazy1 agreed, it’s not so much the engine transaxle location as it is the 5.5 engine they built. The valve train is very new and it’s also tuned quite to the edge for N/A. It’s not simply boost ready at its current state as previous generations of Z06s were. That’s all I mean. Tough to take a $140k car and ruin the warranty for a few HP. Who knows I definitely love Corvettes. I’ve had 3 now and unless I fall into a McLaren trap I should end up in a C8Z. Appreciate your thoughts!

@@MichaelBrownPlus c8 would be like a Prius compared to the costs building a McLaren!! I would suggest a trip to tx in march. tx2k brings out the fastest craziest builds you will ever see. from 1000 hp Hondas to 3000 hp ugr lambos and r8's. vettes of all shapes and sizes and the most insane vipers you will ever see. since you already did 1000 + 1500 wheel would be the next step but its unusable as a road race car. your in drag territory now. could always build a 800-1000 wheel super light sec. kit car you build from the ground up. I followed a guy in fl and was amazed at how detailed he was in his build. amazing car he put a lt5 motor in it

@@32krazy1​​⁠it’s hard to convey in txt what I truly mean but I have friends with McLarens and they are great road course cars. And yeah it wouldn’t be one I would mod much. My bad for not making that clear. I have plenty of friends here who do TX2K. In fact the purple Calvo 9 liter stroker twin turbo viper is another friend. I even ran him a couple times when he had it turned down. Crazy fast. Like 2000 wheel. Sequential. Sick. Those are next level cars like $350k cars easy. I haven’t done a ton of research in to C8s latest builds but I think there is more and more available. And yes you hit the nail on the head. 900+ wheel isn’t very track capable. Mine was way too much of a handful to even enjoy. It would have been better as an auto and drag car. But I love road racing more now. So all in all I may just go with a minimal modded C8Z and just enjoy tracking it. Most fun I’ve ever had I really do love road racing. I have tons of content left from my old build I may still post some more until I can get into a new ride. Appreciate all the support and suggestions you’re absolutely correct.

@fasnuf not necessarily. Considering it can take 2 to 3 months for a custom race block to be built and delivered with a new order. Also they needed time to inspect and ensure it wasn't my fault. Then rebuild and ship me a new race motor (no warranty on a race motor), 8 months I can live with. Accidents happen and they owned it. I could have been out $10,500. All in all I think they do better than some others would have.

Thank you and no question it’s memories I will always cherish, especially since my boy was taught so much about engines, electronics, and especially committing even when you want to give up 10x!

I can only speak for my personal experience, and for spending $10k on a “race motor” with no warranty (installed myself), they didn’t have to send me a replacement free of charge. Sure I do feel I had a very valid case and they did also. Sure it sucked. But overall it worked out in the end.

I personally do (the F1A-94, which is quite stronger than an F1A). It spins bad enough even with taking torque out down low. So yes, it's much more fun to drive and safer with the Procharger linear power band.

Hey Jeff, I've personally never experienced Ron @ Vengeance being that way. I've talked to him several times in person about my build and recommending parts, and even just how he's given me good advice with third party vendors. So I can't say anything bad about Ron. Sorry if you have had some other type of experience.

Sorry, not quite following. Can you elaborate please?

No, I didn't have any issues. The entire VVT unit comes off and is replaced with a simple LS3 sprocket. So it's super clean and straightforward.

Can you provide more details please? I can help if I know more.

Perfectly fine NOT shimming the slave. I did install a 4’ stainless braided bleed line from the slave to my hood. I highly recommend so you can easily bleed without having to get back into the bellhousing.

Yes it is! Z51 package adds a Dry Sump oil system to the standard Wet Sump motor.

@@MichaelBrownPlus Great! Do you think I'd be able to change the crank bearings (like this guy did with crankshaft still in the engine /watch?v=zlluWbtWig8) or would the k-member still be too much in the way?

Just my opinion but if you want to do it right and ensure everything is properly installed, torqued, I would just pull the motor. That way you can be certain it’s done right. One and done. And trust me trying to do crank bearings under a car with the engine in is going to be a pita. I’ve pulled my motor 4 times. The last time I did it by myself in 2 days. Had it back in, in 2 days. Doing a clutch install. It’s not as bad as you think. And it will do you some good to learn that process.

I would recommend getting some advice from a good CAM Vendor to match your build. I went with a 32% fuel lobe, and stage 3 VR cam (being an M7 and looking for top end power). It was a procharger blower cam and worked well. Usually stage 2 cams are recommended for A8's unless you have a higher stall. I can help you more if you want to chat offline.

No idea why...

@@MichaelBrownPlus really??? Lol

@@mattblack133 ;-)

You don't remove anything. The driveshaft output (with splines) will pull out of the flywheel housing from the torque tube. When you remove the engine it's critical to support the torque tube (raise it up as much as you can so the angle of it allows you to have the engine raised more in the engine bay). The engine has to be perfectly lined up with the torque tube, or the shaft will bind. If you have them aligned, you can wiggle the engine back and forth while pulling, and the engine will slip away from the torque tube housing. Again the driveshaft end with splines will slide out of the flywheel (with clutch assembly attached). The clutch is meaningless, you just worry about sliding the engine off the shaft without binding.

Also, once you break free, make sure you don't bang the engine back and forth on the driveshaft output. It can nail the fingers on the pressure plate and bend them.

Awesome thanks for the quick response, so just the bellhousing bolts to the engine and shes free from that area.

Engine came right out thanks! Now for the install, anything i should lookout for? Ive read something about preload but not sure

@@christiansanchez8736 yes. Remove the bellhousing bolts. The engine will slide right out as you now know.

No issues, in fact all my issues were due to a faulty crank. Once Texas Speed sent me a new short block fully built and I threw it all back together, this time with a dedicated front mount oil cooler setup (improved racing adapter, hoses, and 3 pass core), it's been flawless. I sold it back in April. The new owner had all the small paint issues touched up, new carbon side skirts, rear spoiler, fender arches, and interior updates; basically, the car is now perfect, aesthetically and functionally. It's mostly only driven now to car shows, but he weekend drives it sometimes and it's not had a single issue. Texas Speed proprietary forged stroker crank. I was skeptical especially spending $10,500 shipped on a short block, but since the new build it's laid down 1150 wheel with zero issues.

@@MichaelBrownPlus I’m glad to hear it all worked out

@@ThickDrip Thanks brother! Definitely took me for a ride but I wasn’t about to let it kick my ass. Best of luck to you.

That’s a tough one. I don’t know of any way to stiffen your steering. The only reason it stiffens when you go from say touring to track is because you’re reducing the rack gear ratio meaning the wheels turn more for less input in the steering wheel. There’s no way I know of to change that gear ratio. I’m not entirely sure I would want to. Sorry that one I’m all out of ideas on. Other than maybe some crazy toe setting which would not be great for track use.

I honestly can't remember. Sorry.

Yeah check the corvette forum dot com. I was very active here and there over the last 20 years, lots of good stuff there. Check FYREANT posts a buddy of mine tons of write ups with pics. My avatar/name is C5-VERT, will see some content there with me also. If you can't find any let me know.

@@MichaelBrownPlus awesome. I have found and read all of those threads and bookmarked them. almost all the parts collected maybe this winter ill tear it down

@@32krazy1 good deal! if you need to reach out I can send you my email if you have more detailed questions, etc.

My buddy had an oil pump go out in his new ZL1. Hate it for him. But he’s doing trunion upgrade, cam, Katech oil pump, lots of goodies. And yes probably a bit more room to work!

Stock heads they flow great for boost. Spend that money elsewhere. Just make sure you have trunion upgrade and a good set of dual valve springs/retainers. I drove it to pick my kid up all the time sat in car pool for 45 mins running. Drives great around town. -94 is perfect mid to high range power.

Based on the fact your other comments are completely brain dead information I’m not shocked to see another waste of time from you. Yes a C7 can put down over 400hp to the ground before 200mph. Typical user no vids helping anyone no useful helpful comments.

Yeah if I remember correctly it was. It’s been a minute. I’ve done 4 engine installs lots of work and new builds on this car. But yeah I think this particular issue was an oil leak. I’ve spun bearings, snapped a crank. Been through quite a bit but my last 416 was built right, Texas Speed honored their last 416 where the crank snapped. Said faulty crank. Latest build I did a custom dedicated front mount oil cooler setup did away with stock. You can see vids with mod list in later videos. It put down 1150 corrected at 23lbs of boost on 98% E. Ran perfectly. Sold it few months back. New owner had all the paint work corrected and all new carbon. It’s been running flawlessly.

Must be heat soak then. GM motors having a bunch of potential. I'd said the most between them and the other 2.

@@6thgenbang ok clown. Keep coping. Doesn't matter if the Z06 had 1,000,000 hp, only about 400hp is getting to the ground until about 200 mph. Thats why my GS can keep up.

@@pizzaparty-r1c I just checked all of your comments are nothing but trolling. Absolutely zero positive substance to our corvette community. And the comment above saying anything above 400hp is unusable until 200mph?!?! WTH are you smoking? Contribute something useful or I will just block you.

Did you really just say “minimal performance increase”? Do you even understand how much 1150 wheel horsepower is? Does doubling the stock Z06 horsepower sound like a “minimal performance increase”? I get you’re trolling but damn dude you that bored?

@@MichaelBrownPlus I guess you can't comprehend tire friction, huh?

Crawford yes with boost control option, and secondary fuel pump control. I did a secondary (not fore) where I cut a hole in the tank. I have pics. It was a billet sandwich type unit. Then I used a MagnaFuel 750 (good for 2000 horse) secondary, with -8an feed (all the length of car), and -6 return. I combined up front with a Y (fore), with one-way to prevent back flow, and then went to a -10 out, to a 4 port Fore -10an in, and 2 -8an outs (one for port, one for HPFP). I also ran my flex fuel inline after my regulator, with a billet bypass around the flex sensor for high flow (it's only -6an by itself). You should be able to find vids of my fuel system up front.

Yes you can leave the AC hooked up, just leave it to the side. But be super careful obviously. Also when you install, ensure the AC line coming off the compressor isn't too close to your headers. You can bend it just a bit, which I did, and I put head shielding around it.