Well done! That's quite an undertaking, I give you a lot of credit for taking that on & not being afraid to dig into your bike. Looks awesome & really changes the stance of the bike! Look forward to the cafe project, that's something I've always wanted to do.
+Jim Mansi thanks Jim! Good to see you on here. I hope all is well and you and your family are in good spirits. I got the bike on Saturday. Boy wait till you see it in an upcoming video. A little tease: it's a partial basketcase. It's gonna be a fun challenge.
Good work, I also did a tank lift and wire tuck. My tuck wasnt as good as yours but I plan on re-doing it when I move the ignition. Yours looks pretty good, I ended up making my own brackets for the lift so I'm at about 2.5 inches. I think if my tail end of the bike wasnt already raised by an inch or so I wouldnt have gone so high, I lost like 10-15 miles worth of gas because of the angle.
MotoRickyRicardo thanks, man! I love hearing about how riders fabricated their own parts. I love DK Customs, but $45 for two 1.5"can pieces of steel?! You save much more money that way and it's a hell of a lot more rewarding. Let's be honest though, none of us are saving any money with all the bike parts and mods we want to do 😬
Thanks! Yeah, it looks tons different and really opens up the looks of the bike. One the best mods, looks-wise, that I've done. Let me know how the wire tuck goes for you.
I had a 2016 Iron 883 with the same paint as yours. I never customized it as much as I have my '18 FXBB. Forward controls were awesome on my sportster.
I've often considered getting forwards. I just love the control I have speeding around the curves and hills where I live. That Street Bob must be fun to ride and mod.
It looked like a handy bit of knowledge since I do like hiding cables and stuff from view. I just bought an 883 Sportster to cut my teeth on as a project bike. Is there any way to clean up the battery area under the seat?
It seems intimidating before you do it, but once you roll up your sleeves and get down to it, it's easier than you think. I'm glad these videos helped.
Are there any benefits of doing a tank lift and wire tuck other than aesthetics? Have you noticed engine staying a little cooler where heat isn't as confined?
Among a lot of other tank lift questions, I get asked the aesthetics question a lot. So I created two videos covering my thoughts on tank lifts. Here's the first one that covers aesthetics: th-cam.com/video/XroTrZ79L3E/w-d-xo.html Here's the second one: th-cam.com/video/QgpXIXUASbM/w-d-xo.html As far a cooling goes: possibly, but it's probably so little that it's impact is nominal. The engine still gets hot when I'm stuck in traffic just the same as it did before the lift and there's plenty of air flow either way while the bike is moving. If cooling on top was necessary, the engine would have been designed with fins up there rather than rocker heads, in my opinion. It'd be cool if someone did a before and after scientific test with a thermometer. Maybe someday I'll buy an old 883 and use it as a test bike 😂
Hi Joe. I’ve always loved and appreciated your content for being simple and informative at the same time. It talk about motorcycling in the real sense and not click bait stuff like most of the other channels out there do. This is a very underrated channel, but alas, these are the times we live in. I had a quick question on the wire tuck (this video was my reference when doing it). I just completed mine, along with a 1.5” lift and I had to press the front down to be able to pass the bolts through the bracket holes. Is that normal and did you have to do that too? The bike’s been running fine but I’m just scared the pressing down won’t do damage to the wires/ connectors. Didn’t have to press down real hard, just a little bit. Any thoughts/ feedback will be appreciated. Thank you!
Thanks so much, Aditya! Be really careful with the front of the tank and the wires. You’ll need to press down a little, but not so much that you’ll need to hold down on it. The wires shouldn’t be obstructed, or limit movement of the front end, or be in a position to cause rubbing from the tanks or front end movement. Six months after I did the tank lift, I adjusted the position and re-wrapped my wires in the front of the bike. It might be a good idea for you to check like I did and maybe do som re-wrapping. My video and motorcycle building skills have improved a great deal in the nearly three years since I did the tank lift series. It might be a good idea for me to do another much better quality video on this.
@@GreatEgret.. Took the advice from your reply and tried rearranging the wires to make it fit better. Spending 45 mins, thought I had everything arranged neatly, dropped the tank down and it lined up with the mount holes perfectly. The first day of the year was so rewarding! Also got to see that my first arrangement was pinching a few wires so ended up fixing them as well. Thanks for that extra bit you added about going back and reviewing your work, really helped. Looking forward to more riding videos in 2021! May 2021 bring you more happiness, health and success! 🍻🍻
I tested out both before I buttoned things up. I run it over the spline. At first I worried about pressure on the wire from the tank, but with the E-Z fuse tape I figured it would be protected from both rubbing and pressure. In the end, the tank is lifted high enough that neither pressure nor rubbing are an issue. Running under the tank would mean wrapping the wire over the top of the spline to the right (exhaust) side of the bike, then under the spline. That reduces the usable length of the coil wire by at least an inch or more forcing it closer to the hot engine. Thanks for watching, man. I hope the video was helpful!
Also, this is assuming you are doing a coil relocation like I've done here: th-cam.com/video/WiHuoYqcLwU/w-d-xo.html If you're keeping your coils where they are, I'd option to run them over the spline then drop them near the ears of the tank. Mind you, I haven't done this as I chose to relocate the coils along with the tank lift. If you are keeping your coils where they are, let me know what works best. I bet others have the same question!
Yeah, that makes total sense! That's what I was leaning towards doing. And I am doing the coil relocation. Another question you may be able to offer advice on..... I have the standard key ignition and was wondering if you think I can move the coil and then cut part of the bracket that holds it, but keep enough of it where key ignition connects to and be able to keep it on the side? Thanks again!
If I'm understanding correctly, you want to relocate your coils, but keep your ignition switch where it is on the right side of the bike? If so, get the coil relocation bracket without the ignition switch relocation. I have a fob, so I didn't need the bracket with ignition switch relocation. So those with fobs or those not wanting to relocate their ignition switch should use that coil relocation bracket. DK customs is the one I used. You can find it here: www.dkcustomproducts.com/07-up-coil-relocation-dk-cr-rlc07.htm i hope I'm understanding correctly.
That's a good question. I was being cautious. I wanted it lifted, but didn't want to go too high. Honestly though, I think I'd like the look of another 1/2". After I posted this video, a subscriber to my channel, W Furner, did a 2" lift and said he didn't like it and went back down. I may go higher someday. Let me know what you go with or have gone with. I love hearing a lot of opinions on mods.
Thanks, I ordered a 2inch for my nightster. Will let you know how it goes. Keep up the vids, I am new subscriber and I appreciate the content I will for sure refer back to your videos what I do the wire tuck.
Not at all. I think this debate might be a carry over from the pre-EFI days. Back then, the petcock was located in the middle of the tank. The fuel pump on our 883s is located near the back of the tank on the lower left side. If there is a drop in usable fuel, it's neglible and unnoticeable. I would love to own an old Ironhead Sporty to test how much of a drop there could be.
Great Egret ah man those are so hard to come by!! People won’t let them go and are keeping them like antiques!! Ok good! I’ve read so many forums of people arguing that you lost your fuel capacity when you did a rank lift and you are right it makes sense since the tube is towards the back!!
my sportster 72 came with a 3 or 4" lift , bought used. I run out of gas after 60 miles. so I'm taking the lift off. It's a horrible angle, when I fill up there a lot of empty space at the top of the tank and when I ran out of gas I could hear gas sloshing around at the bottom of the tank that the fuel pump couldn't get.
Good info. Thanks for sharing that. 4" is pretty extreme. Does the low fuel light come on at 60 miles or do you run out of fuel the pump can't reach at 60 miles? From what I've heard on Sportys with 2.1 gallon tanks, the low fuel light comes on at about 70 miles and the tank runs out of gas at 100 miles. Of course this varies with riding style and conditions, but that's about 45 MPG for a 2.1 tank. If you're running out of useable fuel (not just the low fuel light coming on), with a 2.1 gallon tank, that's about a full gallon (!) that the fuel pump can't reach. I don't doubt you as a 4" lift is really extreme, but if what you mean is the fuel light comes on at 60 miles, you're only losing about 10 miles worth of fuel the pump can't reach. A little fuzzy math tells me that's about 1/8 gallon if you get about 40-45 MPG like I do. Not much of difference without the lift. If you mean you completely run out of fuel the pump can reach (meaning you run out of gas and the bike stops running) that is crazy! No way would I ever do a lift that high! For reference, on my iron with a 3.3 gallon tank, typically I get 40-45 MPG and my low fuel light comes on at about 95 miles (85 if more city riding) and the most I've pushed it without refueling was 135 miles (I should be able to go to about 145 miles with my MPG and 3.3 gallon tank before I run out of fuel). There was no change with the miles the low fuel light came on after the 1.5" lift and I'd imagine I could still push it to 135 miles before needing to refuel.
I do have the 2.1 gal tank, and the bike is rated at 48mpg the bike starts jerking right about 60-65 miles and I stop at the nearest gas station . I reset the travel odometer every fill up. after watching your video I went in my garage and took off the lift. I will see if it makes a difference, but I've never even reached 80 miles to a full tank in the 3 years I've had it.
ThePacalypto wow, that's crazy. Thanks for sharing that info. I had no idea. One full unusable gallon is a crazy high amount and it's not like it's mixing well when you fill up. So there's some gas that's going bad in your tank. I wonder if lifting the tank up by the rear ears as well would help? Maybe try for the same measurable angle as stock.
just so you know, those small peanut tanks only get about 75 miles total on a perfect day, oil temps are right, balance even, and a frog farting west at exactly 12:47::39 on a Tuesday in Portland Maine. the 3.3 gal tank will allow you to go about 180-ish, and the 4.5 gal can take you 289.6 miles(i know this one exactly cuz that how many i did with my 48 before completely running out of fuel). but 4" lift is a lot, the 2" is a good size IMO. thats what i got.
That frog in Portland must be farting up a storm for some riding with a 3.3 gallon tank. 😀 I usually get about 45 MPGs which would put me at 148.5 miles. 180 miles would put the 3.3 at 54.5 MPGs. The best MPGs I ever got was 60.31. So 180+ is doable, but not the norm. That 60.31 was because I was riding in a straight line on Hwy 60 near the Very Large Array in NM.
Thanks, man. Yeah, you definitely want to take out the 40A (main fuse) while doing this. For those reading this that don't know how to do this: I think I covered it in the first video of this series where I removed the tank. In case I didn't: the main fuse, which is marked "40A", is below the black aluminum cover on the left side of the bike. Simply pull the Velcro holder off, remove the top cover and pull out the fuse marked "40A".
I just did my wire tuck, and I found out something that others might find interesting. The ignition and coil wire- if you run those down where that square bracket where the fuel hose is placed, the sharp edges of this square plate/bracket will/might eat its way through the tape and cables. I had mine there at first, and saw that it was pinching hard on these wires, so i moved them forward so they stayed clear of the plate/bracket. Anyone else got any experience with this?
@@JohannesDalenMC I started over, but later changed it to under after I was trying to diagnose a ground issue in my electrical system. It turned out to be a bad battery connection. You'd be fine over or under as long as the tank is secured correctly and doesn't move around.
By the way, I have another question: the part where all the wires go from the back and in under the tank. Those wires are pinched by the tank. Do you think that matters?
It was installed at the factory when the bike was built. It was $395 extra for the new bike, but I think for that price plus labor you can get one installed by your dealer. Though I think labor may make it really expensive
Oh, man! This is an old video. It’s a 1.5” lift. I have a better video of a tank lift on a Sporty here: th-cam.com/video/hpK98-tivgE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=GWSrR6o8C2rc4X4L
Yeah, it's the 1.5 inch. I bought directly from DK Customs. www.dkcustomproducts.com/sportster-model-tank-lift-kit-dk-spt-tlk.htm DK also sells through Amazon. that might be a better option for you for shipping costs. I did a search there and currently they only have the 2 inch. Keep an eye out for the 1.5 as I'm sure they have it up there again.
Hey, brother. The horn on the 2017 Iron actually is mounted to the frame in front between the forks. goo.gl/images/aLKCCG It's kind of a pain there when you want to install a crash bar.
I do actually. DK Customs makes a relocation mount so you can mount it where mine is. Looks to be identical to my Harley mount. Here's a link to it on Amazon: amzn.to/2JjdRxc
Nope. The fuel pump is safely inside the tank. What I did was remove the hose and wire that powers the fuel pump. That's necessary if you want to remove the tank. Others have done the wire tuck with the tank lifted with a 2x2 board or another object. I found it way easier to do the tuck with the tank removed.
I didn't expect to do any work on my bike during winter, let alone ride through winter. About two weeks after I shot this I bought a good sized heater. I've used it a few times to get me through a mod or two. Thanks for watching!
The horn on the stock 2017 Iron 883 in the US is mounted on the stabilizer link in front between the forks. It didn't need to be removed for the tank lift or the coil relocation. So it stayed right there. If you have a side mounted horn, I believe you can buy a mount to relocate it to the front.
The sportys r already too top heavy n now yours is going to be even more top heavy just for a cosmetic change ,nah on my.nightster I'm going to install a flattracker tank which is lower than stock heighth n also a larger capacity tank . And it'll handle better with the wieght being lower on it.
Thanks for watching, brother. Yeah, no matter what anyone else says, the only reason to do a lift is aestetics. I've had it lifted for four months now. 1.5" isn't much and didn't impact the weight distribution. Handling feels the exact same as before the lift. Your flattracker tank sounds pretty sweet. Where did you buy it from? I'd love to see pics when you're done installing it. Ride safe, my friend.
I had Harley put it on when I bought the bike. Extra $395 for it, but since it came from the factory i didn't have to pay any extra labor fees. You can buy it after-market from Harley, but the sucky part is only their techs can code it. Which means only Harley techs can install it. DK Customs makes a slick push button ignition replacement that I'd install if I didn't have the keyless. You can check it out at this link: amzn.to/2FqwgWI My next Harley won't have keyless unless it comes with it (I don't think it's all that useful), but it will have that DK Customs push button.
Do a search for silicone tape. Here's one for Amazon Australia: www.amazon.com.au/Silicone-AOLVO-Electrical-Weatherproof-Emergency/dp/B07FZ3CNGK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=silicone+tape&qid=1555473441&s=gateway&sr=8-1
Every modern motorcycle, unless it’s been modified, has a starter relay. Once the main fuse is taken out, the relay, along with everything else on the bike, is disabled.
@@GreatEgret I have problem I know it’s difficult to solve it through here but actually my battery died I change it with a new one and after that it doesn’t start, it has power on the electrics but when I press the start button the lights are losing the power and the bike doesn’t start I thought it would be the relay starter is it possible? And where is the location of the relay ?thank you for answering so quickly!!!!
@Mixalis Ampelargas man, it could be so many different things. Does your battery drain when you let the bike sit? If so, that’s likely a parasitic draw and unless you know how to problem solve it, that would require a mechanic to fix. Is your battery still good? Relays can go bad, but it’s likely something else. It could be the starter itself. Do you hear a click when turning the key or pressing the start button? That’s likely the starter that went bad. No click? Check the wires that connect to the starter. Lots of clicking? Check that your battery terminals aren’t loose or corroded.
It depends on what you mean by "gas mileage." If you mean MPGs, the answer is no. You can mount the tank upside down on your head and you wouldn't technically lose MPGs. Sure, wind resistance may slightly impact MPGs with the tank on your head, but that's not what we're talking about here. I digress with my tank on head joke. What is possible is if the tank lift is angled too high, the fuel pump (or petcocks on a carb bike) can't access fuel thats still in the tank, thus lowering how far you can go. That's different than MPGs. How high is too high? Well, I address this in a two-video series that's part of this tank lift playlist.
my question is why lol. if it was raised we would be lowering. lol. but that is what we do with our bikes - modify. cool though. good job. like your videos. regular guy working on his bike. like it.
Thanks for watching man! It is fun to modify! You're not alone in thinking, "why?!" I actually cover this controversy in two different videos, because, well, there are riders that love it and riders that hate it and we all love to do mods and talk about it :-) Check out the first video here: th-cam.com/video/XroTrZ79L3E/w-d-xo.html and the second one here: th-cam.com/video/QgpXIXUASbM/w-d-xo.html
funny I just watched them. got them out of order. I just bought a 2014 iron 883 for my son. we will have so much fun modifying this bike. your video's are a great help. I have a 2018 Heritage 114 but right now all I want to do is ride the Iron. lol. wow what a bike.
You know, I just fixed up an old 1982 Honda Silverwing. That thing is really comfortable to ride, but I couldn't wait to get back on my Iron. If I could give up my Iron for a trade in, a Heritage 114 would be in my garage today. I'll save up and buy one in a few years. I know I'd miss my Iron way too much. I'm glad the videos are helpful.
Front or rear? You use the same through bolt and washers from your bike in the rear and for the front washers are included in the DK Customs kit I'm using here. Yes, I used blue loctite.
Too each their own I guess, but why in the hell would anyone spend 10gs plus for an 883? They just have no balls what so ever! I just put S&S 1200 Heads and a new cam on my 91 883. Its a new bike now, mfer will totally shit n get now. Its light as hell already and the new heads made a huge diff. Front wheel comes up now without even trying, this bike will get you killed quick if ya don't know it, crazy the diff it made. I can keep up with baggers now while riding that bike, I am mostly on the dyna but gonna park it for a few n get used to this sporty all over. It was my 1st Harley i'll never sell it, so glad I sunk that money into it and didn't go buy another one, I have no room for 3 bikes. I swear to god it's like riding a bran new bike now, Gotta get used to it all over again. Its mean, man almost scared of it now!..
Not only are you homophobic, you don’t know how to effectively communicate that you have a different opinion. That adds up to you being a lonely douchebag.
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Well done! That's quite an undertaking, I give you a lot of credit for taking that on & not being afraid to dig into your bike. Looks awesome & really changes the stance of the bike! Look forward to the cafe project, that's something I've always wanted to do.
+Jim Mansi thanks Jim! Good to see you on here. I hope all is well and you and your family are in good spirits. I got the bike on Saturday. Boy wait till you see it in an upcoming video. A little tease: it's a partial basketcase. It's gonna be a fun challenge.
Good work, I also did a tank lift and wire tuck. My tuck wasnt as good as yours but I plan on re-doing it when I move the ignition. Yours looks pretty good, I ended up making my own brackets for the lift so I'm at about 2.5 inches. I think if my tail end of the bike wasnt already raised by an inch or so I wouldnt have gone so high, I lost like 10-15 miles worth of gas because of the angle.
MotoRickyRicardo thanks, man! I love hearing about how riders fabricated their own parts. I love DK Customs, but $45 for two 1.5"can pieces of steel?! You save much more money that way and it's a hell of a lot more rewarding. Let's be honest though, none of us are saving any money with all the bike parts and mods we want to do 😬
Love the Olive color on your bike.
With the gold flake, it looks even better in person! Thanks for watching, man!
looks great! I have a tank lift on mine but need to get round to doing a wire tuck. its surprising how different it looks.
Thanks! Yeah, it looks tons different and really opens up the looks of the bike. One the best mods, looks-wise, that I've done. Let me know how the wire tuck goes for you.
Great work! Looks like you had the patience of a saint while finessing those cables and wires!
+Ron C thanks! Yeah, and the mouth of a sailor. 😁
Retired Army here, I can handle the language..I think that is my second language!..lol
I had a 2016 Iron 883 with the same paint as yours. I never customized it as much as I have my '18 FXBB. Forward controls were awesome on my sportster.
I've often considered getting forwards. I just love the control I have speeding around the curves and hills where I live. That Street Bob must be fun to ride and mod.
@@GreatEgret Comfort was nice but you definately lose sportyness. The Streetbob is awesome having that bigger motor, 2-up is nice as well.
Lifted tank look isn’t for me personally but I learned some stuff here; great presentation!
That's awesome that you learned some stuff. That's the goal of videos like this. Thanks for watching Paul!
Also, I love your comment! It's the same approach I'd take if something wasn't my thing.
It looked like a handy bit of knowledge since I do like hiding cables and stuff from view. I just bought an 883 Sportster to cut my teeth on as a project bike. Is there any way to clean up the battery area under the seat?
Thanks for the video dude, I completed my wire tuck and coil relocation a few days ago by watching your video. Take care!
It seems intimidating before you do it, but once you roll up your sleeves and get down to it, it's easier than you think. I'm glad these videos helped.
Great video! How did you get the fob system? Did it come with the bike or did you install?
Thanks, man. When I bought the bike new I had them add ABS and the security system.
You should have many more subscribers. I appreciate your work.
Thanks, man! I really appreciate that!
Are there any benefits of doing a tank lift and wire tuck other than aesthetics? Have you noticed engine staying a little cooler where heat isn't as confined?
Among a lot of other tank lift questions, I get asked the aesthetics question a lot. So I created two videos covering my thoughts on tank lifts. Here's the first one that covers aesthetics: th-cam.com/video/XroTrZ79L3E/w-d-xo.html Here's the second one: th-cam.com/video/QgpXIXUASbM/w-d-xo.html
As far a cooling goes: possibly, but it's probably so little that it's impact is nominal. The engine still gets hot when I'm stuck in traffic just the same as it did before the lift and there's plenty of air flow either way while the bike is moving. If cooling on top was necessary, the engine would have been designed with fins up there rather than rocker heads, in my opinion. It'd be cool if someone did a before and after scientific test with a thermometer. Maybe someday I'll buy an old 883 and use it as a test bike 😂
Thanks for the video, it helped me complete mine today. I also took a wee while sorting cables out at front of tank.
You're welcome, my friend! I'm glad it helped out.
Hi Joe. I’ve always loved and appreciated your content for being simple and informative at the same time. It talk about motorcycling in the real sense and not click bait stuff like most of the other channels out there do. This is a very underrated channel, but alas, these are the times we live in.
I had a quick question on the wire tuck (this video was my reference when doing it). I just completed mine, along with a 1.5” lift and I had to press the front down to be able to pass the bolts through the bracket holes. Is that normal and did you have to do that too? The bike’s been running fine but I’m just scared the pressing down won’t do damage to the wires/ connectors. Didn’t have to press down real hard, just a little bit.
Any thoughts/ feedback will be appreciated. Thank you!
Thanks so much, Aditya! Be really careful with the front of the tank and the wires. You’ll need to press down a little, but not so much that you’ll need to hold down on it. The wires shouldn’t be obstructed, or limit movement of the front end, or be in a position to cause rubbing from the tanks or front end movement. Six months after I did the tank lift, I adjusted the position and re-wrapped my wires in the front of the bike. It might be a good idea for you to check like I did and maybe do som re-wrapping.
My video and motorcycle building skills have improved a great deal in the nearly three years since I did the tank lift series. It might be a good idea for me to do another much better quality video on this.
@@GreatEgret.. Took the advice from your reply and tried rearranging the wires to make it fit better. Spending 45 mins, thought I had everything arranged neatly, dropped the tank down and it lined up with the mount holes perfectly. The first day of the year was so rewarding! Also got to see that my first arrangement was pinching a few wires so ended up fixing them as well.
Thanks for that extra bit you added about going back and reviewing your work, really helped.
Looking forward to more riding videos in 2021!
May 2021 bring you more happiness, health and success! 🍻🍻
Man, that’s such good news!! I’m glad it worked out for you. Happy new year! Cheers 🍻
Great Video my friend!!!
What are the torque spec. On the 2 cylinder head bolts for the coil relocation
Thanks! It’s 25-35ft/lbs. check them often.
Did you run the coil wire over the frame spline or kept it underneath? Thanks for a great video!
I tested out both before I buttoned things up. I run it over the spline. At first I worried about pressure on the wire from the tank, but with the E-Z fuse tape I figured it would be protected from both rubbing and pressure. In the end, the tank is lifted high enough that neither pressure nor rubbing are an issue. Running under the tank would mean wrapping the wire over the top of the spline to the right (exhaust) side of the bike, then under the spline. That reduces the usable length of the coil wire by at least an inch or more forcing it closer to the hot engine.
Thanks for watching, man. I hope the video was helpful!
Also, this is assuming you are doing a coil relocation like I've done here: th-cam.com/video/WiHuoYqcLwU/w-d-xo.html
If you're keeping your coils where they are, I'd option to run them over the spline then drop them near the ears of the tank. Mind you, I haven't done this as I chose to relocate the coils along with the tank lift. If you are keeping your coils where they are, let me know what works best. I bet others have the same question!
Yeah, that makes total sense! That's what I was leaning towards doing. And I am doing the coil relocation. Another question you may be able to offer advice on..... I have the standard key ignition and was wondering if you think I can move the coil and then cut part of the bracket that holds it, but keep enough of it where key ignition connects to and be able to keep it on the side? Thanks again!
If I'm understanding correctly, you want to relocate your coils, but keep your ignition switch where it is on the right side of the bike? If so, get the coil relocation bracket without the ignition switch relocation.
I have a fob, so I didn't need the bracket with ignition switch relocation. So those with fobs or those not wanting to relocate their ignition switch should use that coil relocation bracket. DK customs is the one I used. You can find it here: www.dkcustomproducts.com/07-up-coil-relocation-dk-cr-rlc07.htm
i hope I'm understanding correctly.
Great video, one question, why 1.5 lift and not a 2? everyone is going with 1.5 just wondering if a 2 wont make it look clean?
That's a good question. I was being cautious. I wanted it lifted, but didn't want to go too high. Honestly though, I think I'd like the look of another 1/2". After I posted this video, a subscriber to my channel, W Furner, did a 2" lift and said he didn't like it and went back down. I may go higher someday. Let me know what you go with or have gone with. I love hearing a lot of opinions on mods.
Thanks, I ordered a 2inch for my nightster. Will let you know how it goes. Keep up the vids, I am new subscriber and I appreciate the content I will for sure refer back to your videos what I do the wire tuck.
And I may refer back to you with the 2" lift! 😀 Thanks for subscribing, man!
Now the question on the one of the biggest debates. Did you notice a drop on usable fuel from lifting the tank?
Not at all. I think this debate might be a carry over from the pre-EFI days. Back then, the petcock was located in the middle of the tank. The fuel pump on our 883s is located near the back of the tank on the lower left side. If there is a drop in usable fuel, it's neglible and unnoticeable. I would love to own an old Ironhead Sporty to test how much of a drop there could be.
Great Egret ah man those are so hard to come by!! People won’t let them go and are keeping them like antiques!! Ok good! I’ve read so many forums of people arguing that you lost your fuel capacity when you did a rank lift and you are right it makes sense since the tube is towards the back!!
Thanks for the video. Where did you get the cover for the air filter?
That’s the Joker Machine finned air cleaner. Small and mighty.
Any issues with fender paint?
Great video. Can’t wait to do mine
my sportster 72 came with a 3 or 4" lift , bought used. I run out of gas after 60 miles. so I'm taking the lift off. It's a horrible angle, when I fill up there a lot of empty space at the top of the tank and when I ran out of gas I could hear gas sloshing around at the bottom of the tank that the fuel pump couldn't get.
Good info. Thanks for sharing that.
4" is pretty extreme. Does the low fuel light come on at 60 miles or do you run out of fuel the pump can't reach at 60 miles?
From what I've heard on Sportys with 2.1 gallon tanks, the low fuel light comes on at about 70 miles and the tank runs out of gas at 100 miles. Of course this varies with riding style and conditions, but that's about 45 MPG for a 2.1 tank.
If you're running out of useable fuel (not just the low fuel light coming on), with a 2.1 gallon tank, that's about a full gallon (!) that the fuel pump can't reach.
I don't doubt you as a 4" lift is really extreme, but if what you mean is the fuel light comes on at 60 miles, you're only losing about 10 miles worth of fuel the pump can't reach. A little fuzzy math tells me that's about 1/8 gallon if you get about 40-45 MPG like I do. Not much of difference without the lift.
If you mean you completely run out of fuel the pump can reach (meaning you run out of gas and the bike stops running) that is crazy! No way would I ever do a lift that high!
For reference, on my iron with a 3.3 gallon tank, typically I get 40-45 MPG and my low fuel light comes on at about 95 miles (85 if more city riding) and the most I've pushed it without refueling was 135 miles (I should be able to go to about 145 miles with my MPG and 3.3 gallon tank before I run out of fuel). There was no change with the miles the low fuel light came on after the 1.5" lift and I'd imagine I could still push it to 135 miles before needing to refuel.
I do have the 2.1 gal tank, and the bike is rated at 48mpg the bike starts jerking right about 60-65 miles and I stop at the nearest gas station . I reset the travel odometer every fill up.
after watching your video I went in my garage and took off the lift. I will see if it makes a difference, but I've never even reached 80 miles to a full tank in the 3 years I've had it.
ThePacalypto wow, that's crazy. Thanks for sharing that info. I had no idea. One full unusable gallon is a crazy high amount and it's not like it's mixing well when you fill up. So there's some gas that's going bad in your tank. I wonder if lifting the tank up by the rear ears as well would help? Maybe try for the same measurable angle as stock.
just so you know, those small peanut tanks only get about 75 miles total on a perfect day, oil temps are right, balance even, and a frog farting west at exactly 12:47::39 on a Tuesday in Portland Maine. the 3.3 gal tank will allow you to go about 180-ish, and the 4.5 gal can take you 289.6 miles(i know this one exactly cuz that how many i did with my 48 before completely running out of fuel). but 4" lift is a lot, the 2" is a good size IMO. thats what i got.
That frog in Portland must be farting up a storm for some riding with a 3.3 gallon tank. 😀 I usually get about 45 MPGs which would put me at 148.5 miles. 180 miles would put the 3.3 at 54.5 MPGs. The best MPGs I ever got was 60.31. So 180+ is doable, but not the norm. That 60.31 was because I was riding in a straight line on Hwy 60 near the Very Large Array in NM.
You hit the tank with the torque wrench . You got cover everything
What? There is zero damage to my tank.
Good job men ! You must disconnet the 40A or not for this ?
Thx u
Thanks, man. Yeah, you definitely want to take out the 40A (main fuse) while doing this. For those reading this that don't know how to do this: I think I covered it in the first video of this series where I removed the tank. In case I didn't: the main fuse, which is marked "40A", is below the black aluminum cover on the left side of the bike. Simply pull the Velcro holder off, remove the top cover and pull out the fuse marked "40A".
I just did my wire tuck, and I found out something that others might find interesting. The ignition and coil wire- if you run those down where that square bracket where the fuel hose is placed, the sharp edges of this square plate/bracket will/might eat its way through the tape and cables. I had mine there at first, and saw that it was pinching hard on these wires, so i moved them forward so they stayed clear of the plate/bracket.
Anyone else got any experience with this?
I haven't had that experience, but good tip for those that might. Thanks Coach!
Great Egret Did you run those wires over the spine of the frame and down to the relocated spot, or underneath? Thanks for responding
@@JohannesDalenMC I started over, but later changed it to under after I was trying to diagnose a ground issue in my electrical system. It turned out to be a bad battery connection. You'd be fine over or under as long as the tank is secured correctly and doesn't move around.
Great Egret Allright thank you for responding. The issue I talked about is only when you run them over the spine. Have a great day!
By the way, I have another question: the part where all the wires go from the back and in under the tank. Those wires are pinched by the tank. Do you think that matters?
Was your key fob installed from factory or this you install after purchase?
It was installed at the factory when the bike was built. It was $395 extra for the new bike, but I think for that price plus labor you can get one installed by your dealer. Though I think labor may make it really expensive
How much have u lifted up ur tank in inches..
Oh, man! This is an old video. It’s a 1.5” lift. I have a better video of a tank lift on a Sporty here: th-cam.com/video/hpK98-tivgE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=GWSrR6o8C2rc4X4L
Thamm...that looks clean!Tank lift was my first mood on my Iron never got to the wirre tuck thou.
I love how the wire tuck really cleans up the looks. Great mod
You have the link for where you bought the DK custom tank lifts? They the 1.5 inch ones?
Yeah, it's the 1.5 inch. I bought directly from DK Customs. www.dkcustomproducts.com/sportster-model-tank-lift-kit-dk-spt-tlk.htm DK also sells through Amazon. that might be a better option for you for shipping costs. I did a search there and currently they only have the 2 inch. Keep an eye out for the 1.5 as I'm sure they have it up there again.
Also, man, its dangerous for me to be looking at parts for my Harley. I nearly bought a few looking up those links lol!
Ya my bike is still being stored at dealer, won’t have it for another month and I’m looking at mod city lol.
Hey my frend im really wondering where did you put the horn becose technicly where you put your coil now its normaly where the horn is ?
Hey, brother. The horn on the 2017 Iron actually is mounted to the frame in front between the forks. goo.gl/images/aLKCCG It's kind of a pain there when you want to install a crash bar.
Thx budy did you know enywhere i can find somewone changit like our i got a 2007
I do actually. DK Customs makes a relocation mount so you can mount it where mine is. Looks to be identical to my Harley mount. Here's a link to it on Amazon: amzn.to/2JjdRxc
Apreciat that thx alot budy 👌🙏
Not a prob! I hope it works out for you.
Is it necessary to take off the fuel pump for this???
Nope. The fuel pump is safely inside the tank. What I did was remove the hose and wire that powers the fuel pump. That's necessary if you want to remove the tank. Others have done the wire tuck with the tank lifted with a 2x2 board or another object. I found it way easier to do the tuck with the tank removed.
Why not use a heater in the garage ?
I didn't expect to do any work on my bike during winter, let alone ride through winter. About two weeks after I shot this I bought a good sized heater. I've used it a few times to get me through a mod or two. Thanks for watching!
Sick jacket. What brand and type is it?
That's made by Milwaukee Leathers. Click the link in the description and you can get one for yourself 👍
Great help. Hi from Scotland 🏴🏴🤘🏻👏🏻👏🏻 GHR
I'm glad it helped out, brother! Thanks for watching!
What did you do with the horn?
The horn on the stock 2017 Iron 883 in the US is mounted on the stabilizer link in front between the forks. It didn't need to be removed for the tank lift or the coil relocation. So it stayed right there. If you have a side mounted horn, I believe you can buy a mount to relocate it to the front.
Enjoying your videos! Keep them coming. New subscriber here. Ride Safe✌🏻
Thanks for subscribing! I'm having a lot of fun putting out these videos. Expect a lot more to come! Ride safe!
The sportys r already too top heavy n now yours is going to be even more top heavy just for a cosmetic change ,nah on my.nightster I'm going to install a flattracker tank which is lower than stock heighth n also a larger capacity tank . And it'll handle better with the wieght being lower on it.
Thanks for watching, brother. Yeah, no matter what anyone else says, the only reason to do a lift is aestetics. I've had it lifted for four months now. 1.5" isn't much and didn't impact the weight distribution. Handling feels the exact same as before the lift. Your flattracker tank sounds pretty sweet. Where did you buy it from? I'd love to see pics when you're done installing it. Ride safe, my friend.
Do you have the link for the dk customs coil kit
I'm going to assume you have an EFI (2007-2019) Sportster: www.dkcustomproducts.com/07-up-relocation-kits.htm
Yes I have a key fob ignition
EFI (fuel injection) and the key fob are two separate things.
Where did you get your keyless ignition?
I had Harley put it on when I bought the bike. Extra $395 for it, but since it came from the factory i didn't have to pay any extra labor fees. You can buy it after-market from Harley, but the sucky part is only their techs can code it. Which means only Harley techs can install it. DK Customs makes a slick push button ignition replacement that I'd install if I didn't have the keyless. You can check it out at this link: amzn.to/2FqwgWI My next Harley won't have keyless unless it comes with it (I don't think it's all that useful), but it will have that DK Customs push button.
Great Egret. What did it cost?
Sorry responded before reading lol
No problem, brother!
Any Australians know of a tape that is similar to E-Z ? Getting that from US cost about $30 for a role
Do a search for silicone tape. Here's one for Amazon Australia: www.amazon.com.au/Silicone-AOLVO-Electrical-Weatherproof-Emergency/dp/B07FZ3CNGK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=silicone+tape&qid=1555473441&s=gateway&sr=8-1
Hi is there any starter relay?
Every modern motorcycle, unless it’s been modified, has a starter relay. Once the main fuse is taken out, the relay, along with everything else on the bike, is disabled.
@@GreatEgret I have problem I know it’s difficult to solve it through here but actually my battery died I change it with a new one and after that it doesn’t start, it has power on the electrics but when I press the start button the lights are losing the power and the bike doesn’t start I thought it would be the relay starter is it possible? And where is the location of the relay ?thank you for answering so quickly!!!!
@Mixalis Ampelargas man, it could be so many different things. Does your battery drain when you let the bike sit? If so, that’s likely a parasitic draw and unless you know how to problem solve it, that would require a mechanic to fix. Is your battery still good? Relays can go bad, but it’s likely something else. It could be the starter itself. Do you hear a click when turning the key or pressing the start button? That’s likely the starter that went bad. No click? Check the wires that connect to the starter. Lots of clicking? Check that your battery terminals aren’t loose or corroded.
@@GreatEgret no click at all anyway I think it’s better to go at the dealership thanks a lot for your time!!!
Do u lose gas mileage with a tank lift
It depends on what you mean by "gas mileage." If you mean MPGs, the answer is no. You can mount the tank upside down on your head and you wouldn't technically lose MPGs. Sure, wind resistance may slightly impact MPGs with the tank on your head, but that's not what we're talking about here.
I digress with my tank on head joke.
What is possible is if the tank lift is angled too high, the fuel pump (or petcocks on a carb bike) can't access fuel thats still in the tank, thus lowering how far you can go. That's different than MPGs. How high is too high? Well, I address this in a two-video series that's part of this tank lift playlist.
Thank u I have a 2020 sportster 883 and my opinion i think it looks bad ass what u done to ur bike this has encouraged me to do it now thank u
my question is why lol. if it was raised we would be lowering. lol. but that is what we do with our bikes - modify. cool though. good job. like your videos. regular guy working on his bike. like it.
Thanks for watching man! It is fun to modify! You're not alone in thinking, "why?!" I actually cover this controversy in two different videos, because, well, there are riders that love it and riders that hate it and we all love to do mods and talk about it :-) Check out the first video here: th-cam.com/video/XroTrZ79L3E/w-d-xo.html and the second one here: th-cam.com/video/QgpXIXUASbM/w-d-xo.html
funny I just watched them. got them out of order. I just bought a 2014 iron 883 for my son. we will have so much fun modifying this bike. your video's are a great help. I have a 2018 Heritage 114 but right now all I want to do is ride the Iron. lol. wow what a bike.
You know, I just fixed up an old 1982 Honda Silverwing. That thing is really comfortable to ride, but I couldn't wait to get back on my Iron. If I could give up my Iron for a trade in, a Heritage 114 would be in my garage today. I'll save up and buy one in a few years. I know I'd miss my Iron way too much. I'm glad the videos are helpful.
Are washers supposed to go on the two lift pieces- facing the spine? (Inside) And do you use lock tight? Thanks
Front or rear? You use the same through bolt and washers from your bike in the rear and for the front washers are included in the DK Customs kit I'm using here.
Yes, I used blue loctite.
Too each their own I guess, but why in the hell would anyone spend 10gs plus for an 883? They just have no balls what so ever! I just put S&S 1200 Heads and a new cam on my 91 883. Its a new bike now, mfer will totally shit n get now. Its light as hell already and the new heads made a huge diff. Front wheel comes up now without even trying, this bike will get you killed quick if ya don't know it, crazy the diff it made. I can keep up with baggers now while riding that bike, I am mostly on the dyna but gonna park it for a few n get used to this sporty all over. It was my 1st Harley i'll never sell it, so glad I sunk that money into it and didn't go buy another one, I have no room for 3 bikes. I swear to god it's like riding a bran new bike now, Gotta get used to it all over again. Its mean, man almost scared of it now!..
Thanks bro!
Not a prob, brother! Hope it helps out!
Dude.
Space heater.
Right?! I bought one about a week after this. It's been toasty warm since.
i have to say doing this by yourself i feel for ya.
Is it really that difficult? Was thinking of doing it myself after watching this
It’s actually really easy. Just time consuming.
Wood stove
Not a bad idea!
Not to smart man
I love it when someone tries to insult my intelligence by misspelling something as simple as “too”.
Looks gay
Not only are you homophobic, you don’t know how to effectively communicate that you have a different opinion. That adds up to you being a lonely douchebag.