Rich, I'm so glad that you're continuing to teach the canyoneering community! Of course, building and testing the anchor is one thing, but never using an as-found anchor without examining it, using team techniques like sequencing and backing up the anchor, and using proper rappelling technique are also essential when using a deadman. These could make up a part four in this series. So many canyoneers do all their routes off of bolts and trees. Learning to handle deadman anchors opens up so many fun, challenging canyons. Again, thanks for sharing!
Thank you for your comment. I appreciate you. Have you watched my other video, "Friendly Friction & Meat"? I meant for it to be an important part of this series, but the principles apply to other types of anchors as well; not only deadman/cairn.
Best series of videos on this topic I've seen! Thanks for putting them together. It should be obvious, but one needs to be careful with these anchors. I think that some, or perhaps many, canyoneers don't give much thought about what if someone gets stuck and needs a rescue. Some of the rescue techniques that many of us have practiced like setting up a pulley system or rappelling down to do a pick off would not be appropriate with these anchors! (Unless they could be backed up somehow.) It would be best to set these up with a releasable "contingency" rig. And if this can't be done (i.e., a thin pull cord is tied on to the main rappel rope, or a fiddle stick/toggle is being used), then rappellers should know how to self rescue. I wonder how many people think about this? (It's all good until it's not!)
I agree with you. Too many people are drawn to the "cool" techniques without considering the consequences if something goes wrong. I have a video in mind about starting haul systems with a 2:1 when anchor strength is a concern.
Thank you for checking out my videos. If you do decide to try deadman or cairn anchors, please be sure to watch my other video, "Friendly Friction & Meat" first. There are ways to lighten the load you put on the anchor and ways to back them up and test them.
@@CanyonsCrags Already have :) The results are surprising and it so counter intuitive to ADD friction because you need to pull the rope through. But you demonstrated why its worthwhile and in such a simple manner.
@@sethdasilva5368 I call it friendly friction because it works in our favor in these applications - when holding or lowering a load (including lowering ourselves). Friction is not our friend when we are hauling. You make a good point about also being concerned about rope pull. Too much friction between rock and rope passing over the edge can lead to stuck ropes. But on the other side - if you use an anchor closer to the edge for less friction, the anchor needs to be stronger. Bolts are a simple solution.
I feel like pulling on the anchor although in this test was to show its strength, in an actual canyon you'll be near a drop. We should show all carin anchors should be backed up by meat until the lamar. When rappelling single strand a single directional figure 8 clipped to another person's harness is the preferred method. This backup should never be held tight so that the full weight of the person on rap is on the anchor. Lamar should study the anchor as the group rappels knowing ultimately they will go without any additional safety. Cheers
Thank you. I hoped to make it clear that each of these videos should be watched as a series, including "Friendly Friction and Meat". We may all have different "preferred methods" to rig the meat backup. My personal preferred method is to use something releasable. VT Prusiks shown, but could be munter hitch or rappel device.
Hey great video thank you. I would have loved to have seen a little more scientific testing. I dont think he could even achieve full body weight with that short piece of webbing. Would love to see how my KN these setups could hold :)
Thank you for your comment. It would be impossible to control the variables in play with something like a deadman or cairn anchor. If I presented "scientific" test results I fear someone might say, "Rich Carlson said cairn anchors will hold X pounds". I edited a significant percentage of Joe's testing. He definitely put far more than body weight on the anchor. Did you happen to check out the "Friendly Friction & Meat" video?
@@CanyonsCrags Haha yes I see your point. People will take anything literally. Maybe there is some middle ground and/or a huge disclaimer. Yes I saw the Friction and meat video. Of course I watch all your videos :)
@@gregdavidd Someone on my FB group asked me to do some "scientific" tests tweaking the anchors with each test to show how variations can affect anchor strength. I may follow up on that request.
Thank you for such wonderful videos and teaching! Please continue to make them!
Thank you for taking the time to share some words of encouragement. I appreciate you.
Excellent!
Thank you for taking the time to share your good vibe.
Love your clip and your channel-very informative. Thank you, Rich, for sharing your knowledge. Much appreciated
Thank you for taking the time to share your kind words. It means a lot to me.
Knife to the heart. Joe saw the finished video and says my sense of humor needs a lot of work. 😞 LOL
Glad to see you back at it releasing videos.
Thank you. I enjoy making the videos. Maybe sometime I'll actually get good at it.
Rich, I'm so glad that you're continuing to teach the canyoneering community!
Of course, building and testing the anchor is one thing, but never using an as-found anchor without examining it, using team techniques like sequencing and backing up the anchor, and using proper rappelling technique are also essential when using a deadman. These could make up a part four in this series.
So many canyoneers do all their routes off of bolts and trees. Learning to handle deadman anchors opens up so many fun, challenging canyons. Again, thanks for sharing!
Thank you for your comment. I appreciate you.
Have you watched my other video, "Friendly Friction & Meat"? I meant for it to be an important part of this series, but the principles apply to other types of anchors as well; not only deadman/cairn.
@@CanyonsCrags
Not yet, but I will!
Best series of videos on this topic I've seen! Thanks for putting them together. It should be obvious, but one needs to be careful with these anchors. I think that some, or perhaps many, canyoneers don't give much thought about what if someone gets stuck and needs a rescue. Some of the rescue techniques that many of us have practiced like setting up a pulley system or rappelling down to do a pick off would not be appropriate with these anchors! (Unless they could be backed up somehow.) It would be best to set these up with a releasable "contingency" rig. And if this can't be done (i.e., a thin pull cord is tied on to the main rappel rope, or a fiddle stick/toggle is being used), then rappellers should know how to self rescue. I wonder how many people think about this? (It's all good until it's not!)
I agree with you. Too many people are drawn to the "cool" techniques without considering the consequences if something goes wrong. I have a video in mind about starting haul systems with a 2:1 when anchor strength is a concern.
Haven't used deadman anchors but this series means I am open to it . Definitely need to practice.
Thank you for checking out my videos. If you do decide to try deadman or cairn anchors, please be sure to watch my other video, "Friendly Friction & Meat" first. There are ways to lighten the load you put on the anchor and ways to back them up and test them.
@@CanyonsCrags Already have :) The results are surprising and it so counter intuitive to ADD friction because you need to pull the rope through. But you demonstrated why its worthwhile and in such a simple manner.
@@sethdasilva5368 I call it friendly friction because it works in our favor in these applications - when holding or lowering a load (including lowering ourselves). Friction is not our friend when we are hauling.
You make a good point about also being concerned about rope pull. Too much friction between rock and rope passing over the edge can lead to stuck ropes. But on the other side - if you use an anchor closer to the edge for less friction, the anchor needs to be stronger. Bolts are a simple solution.
I feel like pulling on the anchor although in this test was to show its strength, in an actual canyon you'll be near a drop. We should show all carin anchors should be backed up by meat until the lamar. When rappelling single strand a single directional figure 8 clipped to another person's harness is the preferred method. This backup should never be held tight so that the full weight of the person on rap is on the anchor. Lamar should study the anchor as the group rappels knowing ultimately they will go without any additional safety. Cheers
Thank you. I hoped to make it clear that each of these videos should be watched as a series, including "Friendly Friction and Meat". We may all have different "preferred methods" to rig the meat backup. My personal preferred method is to use something releasable. VT Prusiks shown, but could be munter hitch or rappel device.
As the name suggests, you can also use a member of your group if circumstances allow.
You are not suggesting that some of your partners are expendable, are you? LOL
Hey great video thank you. I would have loved to have seen a little more scientific testing. I dont think he could even achieve full body weight with that short piece of webbing. Would love to see how my KN these setups could hold :)
Thank you for your comment. It would be impossible to control the variables in play with something like a deadman or cairn anchor. If I presented "scientific" test results I fear someone might say, "Rich Carlson said cairn anchors will hold X pounds". I edited a significant percentage of Joe's testing. He definitely put far more than body weight on the anchor.
Did you happen to check out the "Friendly Friction & Meat" video?
I do have a Rock Exotica Enforcer load cell. I might put together a test with some serious caveats.
@@CanyonsCrags Haha yes I see your point. People will take anything literally. Maybe there is some middle ground and/or a huge disclaimer. Yes I saw the Friction and meat video. Of course I watch all your videos :)
@@gregdavidd Someone on my FB group asked me to do some "scientific" tests tweaking the anchors with each test to show how variations can affect anchor strength. I may follow up on that request.
@@CanyonsCrags Yeah I would be more interested in the differenced between configurations rather than actual numbers.
Looking forward to it :)