Thanks for the great video. How would you sling a boulder like this with a cordalette or a sling? If the boulder is so big that you can't do a double rap and tie the loops with an overhand/figure eight, would a single cordalette with BHK tied (locking biner on the loop off of it) as the masterpoint suffice? Thanks!
I noticed in a previous video you mentioned that a good boulder for a bomber cam placement when building a gear anchor should be the size of a car, but here you said “bigger than a refrigerator” should do the trick. Is the difference in size due to how cams multiply pull force at their lobes? Or is there something else I’m missing?
A cam is going to load the boulder differently; when you load the cam it's going to push outwards with a lot of ofrce against the walls of the crack it's in. The boulders forming that crack need to be big and heavy enough to resist being pushed apart by the cam. The loading here is simpler because he is just tying himself onto a big rock and hanging off it
Thanks for your comment. Please see Roddy's reply: Lifting or tilting a boulder just a little can cause a cam to fail. This might not take much force, especially if the boulder is balanced on an uneven surface. So placing a cam under a boulder is something to be very careful about. By contrast, when tying a rope around a boulder, just tilting the boulder won't cause a problem (usually... watch for material getting pinched...). It would take a huge amount of force to move that boulder enough to cause a problem. In short, there are a lot of boulders out there that I'd be comfortable tying a rope around, but not comfortable placing a cam under.
With this anchor setup, does this mean the follower will lead the next pitch? Would you need to do anything to the anchor if the belayer here were to also lead the next pitch?
Roddy's reply: Hi, thanks for the question! If the follower is leading next, that would be simplest. If I'm leading the next pitch and I've used my rope to build the anchor, I'll either need to swap ends with my partner, or have them build a different anchor (or just stand on the massive ledge with no anchor... sometimes that's okay). Best, Roddy
The cam or shoe or backpack or another rock or anything else you can think of to help the rope from being wedged under the rock trick is great!
This is awesome. Straight to the point, well filmed and very good audio. Keep it coming !
Thank you!
i like how your shirt is on tune with the topic of the video
Thanks for the great video. How would you sling a boulder like this with a cordalette or a sling? If the boulder is so big that you can't do a double rap and tie the loops with an overhand/figure eight, would a single cordalette with BHK tied (locking biner on the loop off of it) as the masterpoint suffice? Thanks!
I've been waiting for this video to hit your library. As always, a great video, with great instruction!!
Thank you!
I noticed in a previous video you mentioned that a good boulder for a bomber cam placement when building a gear anchor should be the size of a car, but here you said “bigger than a refrigerator” should do the trick. Is the difference in size due to how cams multiply pull force at their lobes? Or is there something else I’m missing?
A cam is going to load the boulder differently; when you load the cam it's going to push outwards with a lot of ofrce against the walls of the crack it's in. The boulders forming that crack need to be big and heavy enough to resist being pushed apart by the cam. The loading here is simpler because he is just tying himself onto a big rock and hanging off it
Thanks for your comment. Please see Roddy's reply:
Lifting or tilting a boulder just a little can cause a cam to fail. This might not take much force, especially if the boulder is balanced on an uneven surface. So placing a cam under a boulder is something to be very careful about. By contrast, when tying a rope around a boulder, just tilting the boulder won't cause a problem (usually... watch for material getting pinched...). It would take a huge amount of force to move that boulder enough to cause a problem. In short, there are a lot of boulders out there that I'd be comfortable tying a rope around, but not comfortable placing a cam under.
Great video and feed. Thanks for putting this great content out there!
Yeah this video library for free is amazing given the quality. Like a free full course.
Great content, thanks for all of the videos!
Glad you like them!
This is fantastic. Thanks!
You're welcome!
With this anchor setup, does this mean the follower will lead the next pitch? Would you need to do anything to the anchor if the belayer here were to also lead the next pitch?
Roddy's reply:
Hi, thanks for the question!
If the follower is leading next, that would be simplest. If I'm leading the next pitch and I've used my rope to build the anchor, I'll either need to swap ends with my partner, or have them build a different anchor (or just stand on the massive ledge with no anchor... sometimes that's okay).
Best,
Roddy
@@videoracles thank you so much for the response!! I hope to run into you one day in JTree and thank you for all this great content in person!
Reach out to Roddy when in JT! There always are opportunities to learn more or discover new places! Here is his website: climbwithroddy.com
thanks
You're welcome!
I always kick such a block before using it just to see if it moves.