Just a suggestion , if you can do it , drill a hole in your bench, at least for me it was easier installing the pistons and assembling the drum with the drum flat , than holding it with the imput shaft on the bench - i guess to each his own as you did fine !
im having an issue where I cannot get my output shaft snap ring on. Im starting to wonder if the gear on the shaft for the speed sensor migrated, keeping the shaft from going in far enough.. we cant compare the old snap ring to the new one, because it shot out somewhere.. im wondering if the last builder used a thinner snap ring. im also wondering if shoddy aftermarket parts were used, that affected the tolerances.. im abt 2 mm short. thanks for any help.. we took it apart, and reassembled it 3 times, so I am pretty sure we are installing everything correctly.
Lol I broke like three of the plastic ones so I took a stator tube to the lathe spent some serious time polishing and was like bam no more plastic junk
I like that blue tool install the pistion into the Reverse drum....I use the freezer method on utube ...I'd like to have that blue tool am sure it's a fast way to compress the seals during install...I freeze mine compressed with wax paper and a big hose clamp but not the inside seal I work it on while the outer is frozen compressed....that method is on utube the blue tool is much better and am sure of it
GREAT VIDEO!!!... On your 3-4 clutch stack, what rule or guideline do you use for clearance per amount of frictions used in the stack-up. Or is the clearance used the same across the board ? Thankyou in advance
@@expressautotransmissiondav4207 Thank you so much for the reply. I looked on amazon but couldn't find anything quite like that. I really liked the way that tool worked. What is it called?
"But otherwise, suck it" 🤣 Thanks for another great video. Two questions: What was the solution you used to dial down the endplay in the 3-4 pack? And how would .0010 of a difference in the 3-4 pack cause a come back? Also, which snap ring pliers or snap ring plier sets would you recommend?
Depends on the snap ring and I have several methods I use for setting clutch pack clearance the biggest on being different machined plates and thicker and thinner snap rings. The reason the clearance is so particular in my opinion is that the clutches is that the extra gap the factory setting uses combined with break in wear causes the clutch to be at it's max tolerance after only a short time. Also I've noticed with my stack a hair tighter .015 that they will generate less heat in a higher horse power application. Thin steels is not always the answer in my opinion on the clutch capabilities. Which snap ring are you looking at with new pliers in mind?
@@expressautotransmissiondav4207 That really makes sense on the tolerance in the stack. Tighter tolerance equals more wiggle room in the long run on the longevity of the pack. I was looking at either the proto or knipex. Do you have experience with either? www.amazon.com/Knipex-4510170-Special-Retaining-6-75-Inch/dp/B003UHUCQM/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?dchild=1&keywords=knipex+snap+ring+pliers&qid=1626449915&sprefix=knipex+snap&sr=8-13 www.amazon.com/Stanley-Proto-J250G-9-Inch-Horseshoe/dp/B00209ETSS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=transmission+snap+ring+pliers&qid=1626449954&sr=8-3
@@mikebrogdon6878 I was using Lisle because I used their automotive tools in the 1980's - 1990's but I was having trouble getting enough spread on some rings, and I bought the Proto's and the tips have little divits (circular indentations or pockets) that hold lock rings' ends and the Proto's open up to almost 1-5/8". What I spent a half hour cussing at with the Lisle I had installed in 15 seconds with the Proto 250. Hope this helps.
@@expressautotransmissiondav4207 how do you do your 4l60es for high rpm over 5500. Transgo has a high rpm spring kit that does away with the 5 3/4 return springs in the drum. An says you need the hardened pump rings an stiffer slide spring for rpm over 5500. What’s your thoughts on that ?
I'm curious as to your reasoning behind your 3-4 clearance. Sounds extremely tight to me. ATSG manual says between 60 - 80 thousands. Rule of thumb .008 per disk as per Sonnax guidelines results in 48 thousands. To me, 15 thousands as indicated by you would present a problem especially on the 3-2 downshift. Thoughts?
I've done a lot of research on the clearance of the 3/4 clutch. The biggest factor I used when deciding to start making my clearance tighter was the load springs. As well as the actual clutch surface capacity. The .015 clearance is enough for the steels to safely get the heat out of the steels and still have no drag on the clutch. As far as the 3-2 is concerned, if the accumulator, afl valve and servo are tuned and matched together this clearance will not affect downshift quality.
All good, it's all about getting as much information as you can I appreciate you asking a lot of ppl don't ask or ever shy away from the book. Never know till ya try
@@expressautotransmissiondav4207 Thanks. Was this shelf trans completed? I originally landed on your pump mods vid, then looking thru your YT section I found the playlist but that has things in a mixed up order and had to look at all the dates, then was last on the input/reverse input vid... I assume next is the pump vid I already saw, was there anything after that? Merry Xmas.
I do it both ways depending on what the unit is doing. If it's going on the shelf I go with as much fluid as I possibly can soak them in. If it's going right in the vehicle then I assemble dry measure dry reassemble then soak while I'm building valve body or while unit is on its back I'll flood the case with fluid.
They shipped the two lower steels the two that ya.....Alter from stock deminsion one smaller and one bigger...ya hearing from a beginner and transmission bench.com DVD flash card insert video
I started out stock rebuild...one of my 1995 60E.... And upgrades hav been taking place... disassemble for bonded pistions... disassemble for..ZPac.... Disassemble for harden sunshell..I hav the transgo shift kit...so I be disassemble for rev.pistion drill and inserts...at.......my garage ...ya can step outside my back door and look up into the.......heavens
It would be helpful to 1st timers to run filming at normal speed so ppl can actually See the step by step. I know its not extremely difficult, as I've built many Big & Small block Chevy engines but this is my 1st Transmission Rebuild. High speed isn't alot of help, sorry. Thanks
![เปิด อาณาจักร หมื่นล้าน "สาระตั้ม" l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3XE0nPF4YkQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks you are one of the better ones I e saw and I have leard from you so thanks for you're help much appreciated
Just a suggestion , if you can do it , drill a hole in your bench, at least for me it was easier installing the pistons and assembling the drum with the drum flat , than holding it with the imput shaft on the bench - i guess to each his own as you did fine !
I have benchs with and without holes its definitely a preference issue in my opinion. Either way thanks for watching and sharing 🙏
im having an issue where I cannot get my output shaft snap ring on. Im starting to wonder if the gear on the shaft for the speed sensor migrated, keeping the shaft from going in far enough.. we cant compare the old snap ring to the new one, because it shot out somewhere.. im wondering if the last builder used a thinner snap ring. im also wondering if shoddy aftermarket parts were used, that affected the tolerances.. im abt 2 mm short. thanks for any help.. we took it apart, and reassembled it 3 times, so I am pretty sure we are installing everything correctly.
Hey, "Rookie", I like your sealing ring tool on the input shaft. lol Who needs a plastic one?! :-)
Lol I broke like three of the plastic ones so I took a stator tube to the lathe spent some serious time polishing and was like bam no more plastic junk
I like that blue tool install the pistion into the Reverse drum....I use the freezer method on utube ...I'd like to have that blue tool am sure it's a fast way to compress the seals during install...I freeze mine compressed with wax paper and a big hose clamp but not the inside seal I work it on while the outer is frozen compressed....that method is on utube the blue tool is much better and am sure of it
It's a good video for sure
GREAT VIDEO!!!... On your 3-4 clutch stack, what rule or guideline do you use for clearance per amount of frictions used in the stack-up. Or is the clearance used the same across the board ? Thankyou in advance
I try to sticknwith that clearance across the board on mh 3-4
Nice video brother....Where can i find the device you're using to compress the spring cages? Thanks in advance
Transtool online has some great stuff and adapt a case as well ive even bought tool's on amazon
@@expressautotransmissiondav4207 Thank you so much for the reply. I looked on amazon but couldn't find anything quite like that. I really liked the way that tool worked. What is it called?
"But otherwise, suck it" 🤣
Thanks for another great video.
Two questions:
What was the solution you used to dial down the endplay in the 3-4 pack? And how would .0010 of a difference in the 3-4 pack cause a come back?
Also, which snap ring pliers or snap ring plier sets would you recommend?
Depends on the snap ring and I have several methods I use for setting clutch pack clearance the biggest on being different machined plates and thicker and thinner snap rings. The reason the clearance is so particular in my opinion is that the clutches is that the extra gap the factory setting uses combined with break in wear causes the clutch to be at it's max tolerance after only a short time. Also I've noticed with my stack a hair tighter .015 that they will generate less heat in a higher horse power application. Thin steels is not always the answer in my opinion on the clutch capabilities. Which snap ring are you looking at with new pliers in mind?
@@expressautotransmissiondav4207
That really makes sense on the tolerance in the stack. Tighter tolerance equals more wiggle room in the long run on the longevity of the pack.
I was looking at either the proto or knipex. Do you have experience with either?
www.amazon.com/Knipex-4510170-Special-Retaining-6-75-Inch/dp/B003UHUCQM/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?dchild=1&keywords=knipex+snap+ring+pliers&qid=1626449915&sprefix=knipex+snap&sr=8-13
www.amazon.com/Stanley-Proto-J250G-9-Inch-Horseshoe/dp/B00209ETSS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=transmission+snap+ring+pliers&qid=1626449954&sr=8-3
I have a full set of Protos I love but I also use the Marco short tooth set and the lang set the lang set is probably the most versatile set.
@@mikebrogdon6878 I was using Lisle because I used their automotive tools in the 1980's - 1990's but I was having trouble getting enough spread on some rings, and I bought the Proto's and the tips have little divits (circular indentations or pockets) that hold lock rings' ends and the Proto's open up to almost 1-5/8". What I spent a half hour cussing at with the Lisle I had installed in 15 seconds with the Proto 250. Hope this helps.
@@expressautotransmissiondav4207 how do you do your 4l60es for high rpm over 5500. Transgo has a high rpm spring kit that does away with the 5 3/4 return springs in the drum. An says you need the hardened pump rings an stiffer slide spring for rpm over 5500. What’s your thoughts on that ?
Wavy go in a certain direction?
Where did you get that blue reverse drum pistion install tool...who makes it
The two blue ones I use in the input drum are from a and reds as well
Nice vídeo bro new fallower right here
Good video
Good work
Thank you
I'm curious as to your reasoning behind your 3-4 clearance. Sounds extremely tight to me. ATSG manual says between 60 - 80 thousands. Rule of thumb .008 per disk as per Sonnax guidelines results in 48 thousands. To me, 15 thousands as indicated by you would present a problem especially on the 3-2 downshift. Thoughts?
I've done a lot of research on the clearance of the 3/4 clutch. The biggest factor I used when deciding to start making my clearance tighter was the load springs. As well as the actual clutch surface capacity. The .015 clearance is enough for the steels to safely get the heat out of the steels and still have no drag on the clutch. As far as the 3-2 is concerned, if the accumulator, afl valve and servo are tuned and matched together this clearance will not affect downshift quality.
@@expressautotransmissiondav4207 IC. I would need more convincing before I go that tight. 👍
All good, it's all about getting as much information as you can I appreciate you asking a lot of ppl don't ask or ever shy away from the book. Never know till ya try
@@skutahuniai4830 Convincing? How about former engineers from GM's Powertrain Division (aka HydraMatic Division) using .030" or less?
@@matermark WTF are you talking about? Make sense.
Is that all you used to install the teflon rings, a 90* pick?
Yep that's all I use
@@expressautotransmissiondav4207 Thanks. What town & state are you in?
Baxter springs Kansas
@@expressautotransmissiondav4207 Thanks. Was this shelf trans completed? I originally landed on your pump mods vid, then looking thru your YT section I found the playlist but that has things in a mixed up order and had to look at all the dates, then was last on the input/reverse input vid... I assume next is the pump vid I already saw, was there anything after that? Merry Xmas.
@@matermark I'll check trying to get those in order is tricky lol
Do you assemble clutches dry or after soaking in atf?
I do it both ways depending on what the unit is doing. If it's going on the shelf I go with as much fluid as I possibly can soak them in. If it's going right in the vehicle then I assemble dry measure dry reassemble then soak while I'm building valve body or while unit is on its back I'll flood the case with fluid.
That the very 1st time ...that I seen that capcell tested...? I didn't.......even....know ya can replace it...but I have ....no vacuum test unit
I wonder if ......ya can fluid test that capcell....
Am still waiting on my shims from Cobra Transmission ...fex x from Florida
They shipped the two lower steels the two that ya.....Alter from stock deminsion one smaller and one bigger...ya hearing from a beginner and transmission bench.com DVD flash card insert video
Yeah I replace them here and there depending on testing. Fluid test will work from inside but hard to 100% tell without the gauge.
I started out stock rebuild...one of my 1995 60E.... And upgrades hav been taking place... disassemble for bonded pistions... disassemble for..ZPac.... Disassemble for harden sunshell..I hav the transgo shift kit...so I be disassemble for rev.pistion drill and inserts...at.......my garage ...ya can step outside my back door and look up into the.......heavens
5:18 ......put some hair around it.
"Bob's your uncle"
It would be helpful to 1st timers to run filming at normal speed so ppl can actually See the step by step. I know its not extremely difficult, as I've built many Big & Small block Chevy engines but this is my 1st Transmission Rebuild. High speed isn't alot of help, sorry. Thanks