Another great video nick! I have not had great results,so I kinda gave up! And seeing almost every 300mm shaft leaks, I just include a new drum in my price. after watching your video, I am going to try again to see if I can get any better results. Also, as a sidenote, I support Inside the drum around the shaft area, while I am pressing the shaft back in. I really enjoy your videos and appreciate you taking the time to make them!
When you replace this drum is a new or used one? If memory serves me, I called the dealer for price on brand new and I think it was over 600 dollars. Transtar only offers used ones.
The new drums are very, very expensive ($600 sounds about right) and it's very rarely necessary....Transtar's drums are used and they supposedly test them but I've caught and returned bad drums from them and elsewhere in the past...It's not common but does happen from time to time.
Appreciate the feedback, Tony! Yea, I have never actually repaired a drum like this in a rebuild so it's still considered an experimental procedure in my book...At least until I can prove it out to the extent I'm comfortable with doing it...I think the hot pressure test will tell all of us whether it's viable or not. Thank you for watching!
I’m glad you mentioned that about the air pressure. I actually had someone tell me always use 100 psi well it literally blowed the snap ring and that spring assembly completely out because it was not assembled as you recommended and now I know after going through that because it destroyed that spring and retainer ringthat holds all the rings in place
Yep, 100PSI is def too much for a drum by itself or even air checking through the pump...I do recommend 75-100 PSI for doing a case air check since there's so many air 'bleed-off' points between your nozzle and the piston when going through the test plate so the extra pressure is more desirable to have.
Good to see the removal and replacement of the shaft 👍 just out of curiosity would it be good to blow a bit of light air thru the feed holes to clean any excess loctite in the feed holes
It's amazing how many builders don't know about this. I've always used 272 or 262 thread locker...i was looking at that 609 a couple weeks ago and wanted to try it out but got the hi-temp instead... another guy here on youtube said he uses J B weld. i would try it but i think viscosity is key
Hi Bugs, Yep, I will try Loctite 272 for heat but wanted to try this other stuff to see if it will work. I haven't thought of using JB Weld but may try it as well...
You can use mineral oil instead of atf and not have to be as concerned about fire. Myself I use atf because I have common sense and an abundance of atf.
I actually thought about this but was concerned the drum would cool too quickly, unless I put it in the tank assembled up to the fwd return spring assy and tested it the second I pulled it out...The hot plate/pot will be set up out doors so as not to have fumes inside where they can't escape as easily... Plus using fluid is as close as I can get to actual operating conditions...It's just me in the shop and would otherwise be completely closed to any foot traffic when such testing is being conducted.
@@thegalli yeah I was gonna mention that doesn’t sound safe to be boiling oil. The shop that I’ve been working at. They don’t even check them. They just immediately address the leak points and seal it then test it.
Richard from Precision Transmission alluded to a new product from Sonnax that is basically a steel insert and shaft that goes into the forward drum assembly. Do you know anything about those?
That's a good question as I actually believe the longevity of a given 4L60E is contingent upon the quality of the casting/fitment of the drum and input shaft...Assuming proper maintenance schedules have been adhered to by any given owner, and usage pattern is within design limits most of the time, the better the casting quality, the longer the drum lasts before it starts leaking at the shaft...Once that happens, the 3-4 pack is on borrowed time. I've seen some of these transmissions come in with burnt 3-4 clutch packs in as little as 60k miles while others last well over 150k before they shit the bed...
Hi Jose, I have - will do a video next time but having only used it a few times, the only thing I can say about it is that it's fairly easy to install (you use the rear sun gear or a press tool to actually install the sleeve onto the drum) and then use their piston that comes with the kit...Haven't made up my mind as to whether or not it's worth it...
I gotta say, this bit me once (the leak in that area), and i even air checked it with fluid for leaks. I guess i didn't use enough pressure or the heat theory is when it showed it's ugly head. I got a good used one from my parts dist and all was good. After that, i reseal every one, it's not getting me again ! Do you have a source for new drums?
Hey Beans, thank you for watching! Yep, I had one come back three times before I realized something was going on that I didn't previously know about...Yes, I think the hot pressure test will reveal whether or not Loctite or similar compounds are viable as repair options. I grab all my drums from my local hard parts supplier or Maxx Industries on eBay...Transpartswarehouse also has them in stock from time to time...Prices vary depending on which vendor you choose but the 300mm drum-shaft assemblies are usually $125-$150; add $30 or so for the TSS drums...The 298mm stuff is between $50-$75 from those vendors and my local supplier.
DO NOT press the input shaft out of the input drum without either using an old pump stator or steel pipe to support the center where the input selective washer is located. You should not place the drum directly on on the metal plates on the press. You may f**k up the drum. An old pump stator will work. You don't want to put pressure on the outside of the drum. 😮
I rarely, if ever do these sort of repairs but having the pump stator there is recommended so good call out. I'd add that the selective washer should also be placed as in intermediary between pump and drum when pressing. So folks know why it's not advisable, the stresses placed onto the crown of the drum may create fractures that may not be visible but can cause structural failure there later which of course means no more 3rd and 4th gear... I wouldnt recommend a pipe unless its machined perfectly flat. Thank you for watching and commenting, Rockroll.
Another great video nick!
I have not had great results,so I kinda gave up! And seeing almost every 300mm shaft leaks, I just include a new drum in my price. after watching your video, I am going to try again to see if I can get any better results.
Also, as a sidenote, I support Inside the drum around the shaft area, while I am pressing the shaft back in. I really enjoy your videos and appreciate you taking the time to make them!
When you replace this drum is a new or used one? If memory serves me, I called the dealer for price on brand new and I think it was over 600 dollars. Transtar only offers used ones.
The new drums are very, very expensive ($600 sounds about right) and it's very rarely necessary....Transtar's drums are used and they supposedly test them but I've caught and returned bad drums from them and elsewhere in the past...It's not common but does happen from time to time.
Appreciate the feedback, Tony!
Yea, I have never actually repaired a drum like this in a rebuild so it's still considered an experimental procedure in my book...At least until I can prove it out to the extent I'm comfortable with doing it...I think the hot pressure test will tell all of us whether it's viable or not.
Thank you for watching!
I’m glad you mentioned that about the air pressure. I actually had someone tell me always use 100 psi well it literally blowed the snap ring and that spring assembly completely out because it was not assembled as you recommended and now I know after going through that because it destroyed that spring and retainer ringthat holds all the rings in place
Yep, 100PSI is def too much for a drum by itself or even air checking through the pump...I do recommend 75-100 PSI for doing a case air check since there's so many air 'bleed-off' points between your nozzle and the piston when going through the test plate so the extra pressure is more desirable to have.
Wow...cool fix for a middle of the road type of leakage using locktite. That's good news. I'll be doing this fix someday.
Thanks, LarsonFamilyFarm!
Good to see the removal and replacement of the shaft 👍 just out of curiosity would it be good to blow a bit of light air thru the feed holes to clean any excess loctite in the feed holes
You're welcome, Jose and thank you for watching...Blowing air through the feeds is a great idea, should clear out any excess for sure...
It's amazing how many builders don't know about this. I've always used 272 or 262 thread locker...i was looking at that 609 a couple weeks ago and wanted to try it out but got the hi-temp instead... another guy here on youtube said he uses J B weld. i would try it but i think viscosity is key
Hi Bugs,
Yep, I will try Loctite 272 for heat but wanted to try this other stuff to see if it will work. I haven't thought of using JB Weld but may try it as well...
@@nickstransmissions dont waste your time with the JB its too thick!! loctite is the way to go:)
Yep, started to think about it a bit more after my reply and came to the same conclusion.
For the hot test, I test it straight out of the parts washer cabinet. much cleaner and safer than having a pot of boiling atf laying around.
You can use mineral oil instead of atf and not have to be as concerned about fire. Myself I use atf because I have common sense and an abundance of atf.
Great video Nick. I see your videos being shared in Transmission groups on Facebook a lot here lately. Soon they will be calling you Hollywood 😂
I actually thought about this but was concerned the drum would cool too quickly, unless I put it in the tank assembled up to the fwd return spring assy and tested it the second I pulled it out...The hot plate/pot will be set up out doors so as not to have fumes inside where they can't escape as easily...
Plus using fluid is as close as I can get to actual operating conditions...It's just me in the shop and would otherwise be completely closed to any foot traffic when such testing is being conducted.
Thanks, @rksg2003!
Appreciate the heads up on the Facebook sharing...Maybe I'll rename the business "Hollywood's Transmissions' haha!
@@thegalli yeah I was gonna mention that doesn’t sound safe to be boiling oil. The shop that I’ve been working at. They don’t even check them. They just immediately address the leak points and seal it then test it.
Richard from Precision Transmission alluded to a new product from Sonnax that is basically a steel insert and shaft that goes into the forward drum assembly. Do you know anything about those?
Yep, he's referring to the Sonnax Drum Reinforcement kit for the 700R4 and 4L60E transmissions...I'll do a video on working with that kit soon.
Is there a mileage number, in your opinion, where you would just replace the drum regardless?
That's a good question as I actually believe the longevity of a given 4L60E is contingent upon the quality of the casting/fitment of the drum and input shaft...Assuming proper maintenance schedules have been adhered to by any given owner, and usage pattern is within design limits most of the time, the better the casting quality, the longer the drum lasts before it starts leaking at the shaft...Once that happens, the 3-4 pack is on borrowed time.
I've seen some of these transmissions come in with burnt 3-4 clutch packs in as little as 60k miles while others last well over 150k before they shit the bed...
Ask you another question, have you ever used the forward drum reinforcement kit from SONNAX and if so what do you think of them.
Hi Jose, I have - will do a video next time but having only used it a few times, the only thing I can say about it is that it's fairly easy to install (you use the rear sun gear or a press tool to actually install the sleeve onto the drum) and then use their piston that comes with the kit...Haven't made up my mind as to whether or not it's worth it...
I gotta say, this bit me once (the leak in that area), and i even air checked it with fluid for leaks. I guess i didn't use enough pressure or the heat theory is when it showed it's ugly head.
I got a good used one from my parts dist and all was good. After that, i reseal every one, it's not getting me again !
Do you have a source for new drums?
Hey Beans, thank you for watching! Yep, I had one come back three times before I realized something was going on that I didn't previously know about...Yes, I think the hot pressure test will reveal whether or not Loctite or similar compounds are viable as repair options.
I grab all my drums from my local hard parts supplier or Maxx Industries on eBay...Transpartswarehouse also has them in stock from time to time...Prices vary depending on which vendor you choose but the 300mm drum-shaft assemblies are usually $125-$150; add $30 or so for the TSS drums...The 298mm stuff is between $50-$75 from those vendors and my local supplier.
Where is part 2
Haven't had a chance to film it yet. Been slammed w/transmission work ever since this video was published.
👍👍👍
Thanks, Brad!
DO NOT press the input shaft out of the input drum without either using an old pump stator or steel pipe to support the center where the input selective washer is located. You should not place the drum directly on on the metal plates on the press. You may f**k up the drum. An old pump stator will work. You don't want to put pressure on the outside of the drum. 😮
I use J-B Weld instead of loctite. Whatever works for you.
I rarely, if ever do these sort of repairs but having the pump stator there is recommended so good call out. I'd add that the selective washer should also be placed as in intermediary between pump and drum when pressing.
So folks know why it's not advisable, the stresses placed onto the crown of the drum may create fractures that may not be visible but can cause structural failure there later which of course means no more 3rd and 4th gear...
I wouldnt recommend a pipe unless its machined perfectly flat.
Thank you for watching and commenting, Rockroll.