How to install Tongue and Groove Pine on the Ceiling
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 พ.ค. 2013
- An official "how to" video. As most of my videos are rambling about what I've done, this one is actually a how to.
I designed and built my 3-story 3-car #garage by myself from foundation to siding in only a few months. I took videos and timelapse of the entire project from start to finish.
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"Cutting boards at an angle? Thats like advanced carpentry!" Preach it brother lol.
Finally someone that actually shows you "how to do it" .... love the tips on doing the wall first to avoid cutting angles and the method to cut and mark out the ceiling cans. Very helpful... you have definitely saved me some time and headaches. Thanks for posting!!
Thanks for sharing your experiences. I really enjoyed the series.
I hope I do as well. I really enjoy doing this, and truthfully, it's the people like yourself that keep coming back to comment, that really keep me going. I'll always have projects going on, and it's a blast to share em here. Thanks for watching!
So glad I found your video. We came across an amazing $$deal on tongue and groove pine at Habitat for Humanity which couldn't have come at a better time since we had previously determined that we wanted a "pine ceiling" in our master bedroom renovation!! Knowing to put the groove against the wall as the first smart move was something I was wondering. I'm glad you mentioned how that works because I understood the mechanics so seeing how to begin was of paramount importance!!! Hate to rip out the first board!
AMAZING! Finally, someone said START the install with the the groove downward. Such a basic detail...that folks seem to assume everyone already knows. Thanks for your great and REAL "how to" video.
I didn't know this either!
Your video was great and it "cracked me up" listening to your comments. You are a DIY guy just like me and when you talked about cutting "angles", I TOTALLY agree. Haha And you are also right about there not being any videos really describing "how" to do this. I have been working on a tongue & groove bedroom and was really surprised at how "few" videos there were on TH-cam. Thanks to one guy I found, it gave me some ideas for jigs that I could use. Anyway, thank you for your video and it was fun to watch-- I hope that your garage is working well for you.
Nice work keep it up...I've been putting up tongue and groove siding for a very long time. I don't face nail, unless it is your starter course or somewhere in a corner but I guess if you don't mind spending hours filling holes have fun.
Man..cutting boards at an angle is no that's like advanced carpentry ... you are hilarious and I remember everything you say cause that's what I do.
Short but very informative video!!. Thank you!
Thank you for the video, it helped a lot! For anyone that already has the tools: I used a root-zip cutter to cut out the light fixture holes that made a really nice and tight hole.
What bit did you use?
Very entertaining and funny video, thanks for posting!
this guy should be a comedian, nice work also
Excellent job, will look great once completed. I wish tongue and groove pine was cheaper, costs a small fortune.
nice video...... basic how to . Thank you it was helpful
very good thank you im going to do my shed like that!
I literally felt like i was in Half Life 1, that's what your voice and audio sounded like haha, took me off guard.
Perfect video bro
we are installing one and came here to find out what length to start your first board, which wall to start on, etc. … had to figure it out but thanks for the info you shared…. we put up a vapor barrier even tho we're in AZ …. anything to help keep the heat out...
That is so cool! I'm glad it helped!
Great vid!
I think you need moisture barrier if inside of garage/room is heated, otherwise if not done air/moisture will seep through the grooves during winter and problems in ceiling on inside water drips from ceiling.
Good job great video thank you
Nice job! Has as it remained untreated all these years? Wondering if basic moisture in the garage has caused expansion and contraction?
Yeah for sure, it is. I was just thinking the other day how much knowledge is contained here, and how it benefits the little people, not just big business. I love coming here for it, and you get personal flair as well.
My cabin i just bought has no vapor barrier under the shiplap ceiling an its wiggin me out lol idk if i should have one or not???
Thanks! I hunted for a video too!
Nice work! I’m curious to get your opinion, or others, about that Rigid cordless nail gun. And any other cordless nailer. I’m a retired contractor and would only use one occasionally. Not daily. I just need dependable and medium cost.
Any opinions? Thanks in advance 👍🏼
nice video, thank you sir!
thanks for the vid. Do you guys not use vapor barrier there? we use 6mil poly here.
THANK YOU! I was so hoping someone to back up my theory on vapor barriers. I have a video coming up soon, talking specifically about vapor barriers because I was so wishy washy on it. Thanks for the comments!
You should most definitely have a vapor barrier towards the warm side of the building. In a cold climate this of course would be towards the interior. I like to keep 4 feet between seams, so I would just suggest you buy your lumber in increments of four feet. Anything longer than 12 feet, normally requires two people, and is a bit of a pain to keep straight. I like to use 8 footers and 12 footers, and you can start some rows with 4 footer (8's cut in half). As you mentioned, nailing through the tongue eliminates nail holes, but also allows for a bit of expansion and contraction. Face nailing can cause some issues in this regard. If you just attach one end through the tongue, the other and can move back and forth. If you're staining, to me it's best done on the ground. I put the final finish coat of clear in place however, and usually use a spray gun, masking the walls if required. Water-based of course is easy cleanup, and will save your lungs and nervous system. Eye protection and respirator of course!
If the insulation is crappy or the building is really sealed up, there is a good chance you'll end up with condensation on the interior side of the barrier. You need good insulation on the other side of the vapor barrier to avoid that.
what size nail are you using? Also. would you use a certain size if you were only tongue nailing?
If you had done the ceiling first before the walls wouldn't the joint been less noticeable from the floor looking up?
If doing this type of ceiling in a home (not a garage) in addition to nailing in the tongue instead of face nailing the boards, you would cut 45 degree angles where the boards meet on the ceiling rafters so you don't end up with butt joints and the cracks/spacing that goes along with them. Not sure why you didn't just nail at the tongue as it really takes only a little longer, and you don't need to go around and fill holes.
And dont forget the plastic sheeting between the t&g and the rafters/trusses so you dont pull fiberglass insualtion particles into the room everytime a door opens or shuts or when an exhaust fan is operating.
SHEET BEHIND THE T an G. Any time this house has negative air flow like open an close door. It will be creating a vacuum effect and pull bits of insulation dirt other particles down into the air space. My home is T an G with the Start of the Grove down. So you can caulk and seal the edges. It takes a short extra time but SHEET first with plastic or mylar over rafters or joist or what whatever you're T and G goes on. At the edges along the wall caulk the seam and trim it. It will save you alot of health issues and also add extra efficiency. I've done over 12k sqft of T an G and some of it was ripping out amd replace just to put up plastic sheets of even plywood first
Just curious why 1/2 “ wasn’t left at side and bottom?
I want to do this on an old crummy bedroom ceiling .with recessed lighting
Yeah, I do have vented soffits which should help pull moisture off the top
In your case...when there is enough ventilation above your isolation you'll be okay as the vapour..moisture that passes through can be vented out! You could create a little funnel on your roof or have some vents on the side of the wall beneith the roof where you won't have problems with possible entering of rainwater!
what size and guage nails are you using/?
what gauge did you use? 15 or 16 gauge
It depends on your climate outside climate and inside climate if you put up a vapor bar or not. Because you live in such a cold area and you have regular climate shifts between dry and wet it is not wise to put up a vapor bar. Simply because air moves through the little cracks and then out again. [this costs extra money on heating bill]. If you where to put up a vapor barrior you would trap this wet cold air in the roof causing mold. If you insolate better, you can vapor bar to keep it out
I noticed a lot of the comments about the vapor barrier issue. It is usually recommended that you put one toward the heated side but if it is a garage is it heated? If not you don't need to worry about a vapor barrier or even insulation for that matter.
vapor barriers, and where they go, if even needed are climate dependent.
I am replacing pine carsiding and have trouble making the tongue fit into the groove, of which the tongue is primed and painted. I have tried a lubricant and planing down the tongue a tad. this helps but not totally. Any ideas? Any help is appreciated.
yes, I did that and it helps. Although, laying the boards out on a flat surface and using bar clamps to get the mating pieces to fit (so as to make short segments or panels) worked out even better. Also, I didn't paint the female joint so they weren't sticky from the latex paint. I always try and paint first then install.
Granted, my board lengths were less than 6ft, one story ranch home helped immensely. Thank you for your help!
Wouldn’t truss uplift affect the hold/staying power of those nails without some type of construction adhesive applied to the trusses (especially if you’re in the northern states/provinces)?
when he showed us he nailed it in the front, than said it's old insulation and no vapour barrier I literally burst out laughing
😂
how do you eliminate the beams that connect from wall to wall? in order to have the high ceiling?
just cut em out. You don't even need them. Triangles are stronger without all 3 sides
What type of nails did you use ?
I have a small room , about 8x20, that has plaster wall and ceiling. Can I install pine tongue and groove directly over plaster, or should I remove plaster first?
lil late but you would need to put up fur strips and not apply the t&g directly to the plaster.
Lisa Metcalf thank you. I love your videos.
@5:45 ever heard of a compass?
I would have put plastic up to hold back the dust from the insulation. Have you noticed dust to be a problem in that room. I'm fixing to do my whole house in it.
This is a garage. meh. If i were working on a house, I would have considered some other options. It's messy for sure. ugh. I have a "vapor barrier" video that tosses back and forth the pros and cons of using one. It really depends on a lot of factors.
thx for the help
Is that mold growing in the insulation? 😐
Those angles are advanced carpentry
Why are there no tongues and grooves on the ends?
The last option is ventilate the room everyday for ten minutes by opening a window! That also will let out moisture!!! And keep the place well heated...with dry heat..ofcorse!!!
You obviously put the first board flush against the wall, thus not leaving any room for expansion. I'll be very surprised if this ceiling doesn't buckle as it expands from humidity during summer months.
Matt, you make a valid point. I haven't experienced any swelling or buckling for the past two summers, but I should have left a gap.
You did not need to nail on face. T+G locks together so installer only need to nail 45% on tounge. Overall it looks nice and it's a garage so nails on surface not as critical. You may have moisture and mold issues because of temperture differnce between roof and underside of ceiling.
I live in Illinois. I'm doing this to my living room ceiling 21x14 because our ceiling collapsed from poor ventilation, I assume I should staple plastic up before doing the T&G I hope it does not create a moisture issue with just being wood and no drywall
“Cutting boards at an angle is advanced carpentry” or you could use a miter saw and just look at what degree your cutting?
Hey buddy its me again, watched this about million time and now time to do my basement. QQ tho-- do I need to prime? I plan to paint it white and is okay with the rustic look...
You'll get knots showing through if you don't prime.
Ok!
Where's the vapour barrier?
Why would you put T&T on a garage ceiling? It is extremely expensive for that application.
Where's the vapour barrier? Moisture problems down the road.
Dude!!!!! Face nailing!!!!!! Come onnnnnnnnn!!!
lol, thanks!
Not sometimes… the point of tongue and groove is no showing nails… do you do lap siding with nails in the field too..? NOT RIGHT!
Is he a high?
start at the peak and work down. if you need help holding up the piece to secure it, get that guy in the doorway behind you to take his hands out of his pockets... you would have trim board where wall and ceiling meet anyway.
In most places the building code requires sheet rock behind tongue and goove wood. Fire protection
Teach by mistakes? I like your approach
It's not difficult!
wait till you see how the building burns in a fire....and you can ignite the walls with ONE match
lol 2:00 advanced carpentry
You never do pine ceilings without drywall on ceiling, attic heated smell will come to room
you're going to put so much work and no paper barrier. ??? & puttying the nails after are two jobs. why suggest more work ?
They're rafters not joist
you can only have ONE vapor barrier. Never two. Moisture will get trapped between them and that is no good.
Hopefully the roofing system is your one and only vapor barrier. If your roof is not a vapor barrier you have bigger problems.
Go to WoodPrix webpage if you'd like to know how to build it. Good solutions for everyone I think
This video should be titled how NOT to install....
Why NOT? how about taking your time and making a video on HOWTO then ?
Agreed Tony, Tim, they make staple guns engineered for tongue&groove install which hides the holes, maybe Tony is too busy to post his work, I'm currently about to install mine, I'd be willing to walk you through it
@@conradpaulson8343, please do.
so i made it too . just by using woodprix woodworking plans:)
bad job
What type of nails did you use?