Smart tip on the thread needing to be behind the clump of fiber. I think folks take for granted how long it takes to figure little tricks like that out on your own.
Good looking fly! I want to try something like this to imitate peanut bunker or herring in saltwater, and sunfish or perch in freshwater. I just need to adjust sizes, colors, and proportions.
That is the RIGHT way to stack EP Fiber for the classic EP Minnow. Good job! Yes, there are a bunch of "short-cut" ways to do it, but NONE of them result in a life-like suspending minnow pattern that is a spooky-wicked KILLER in the backcountry and on protected flats. This is how you get the neutral buoyancy pattern that you can let sit in front a Snook's face and barely twitch until he can't stand it anymore. Bam! This pattern has a FLAT profile and is very sparse. What most people tie is the mullet version, which is fine for adult Tarpon, Bull Reds, etc. This has a round profile and the fibers are more dense. The mullet version will sink faster and must be fished with long, smooth strips...usually slowly.
A pro tip i would like to add is make yourself a template. Trim a perfect fly, whatever YOU think is perfect for you. Then trace the fly onto a recipe card. After, you can laminate this. Now you have the exact shape you want. You can tie a pile of these, tease the fibers out, and cut a perfect shape every time!! One more suggestion, don't cut a light colored fly over a white/cream background. Use a blue colored background. Even tying flies with a white background is very straining on your eyes. Slip a blue background behind your vise or on your tying desk and you will feel your eyes relax immediately. Seriously, try it, you will see!! You do come off sparky for sure. Flat eyes are awesome. No weight. For a fly you want to suspend and not dive, flat eyes are the way to go. There is a place for 3D and flat eyes. To the young tiers, don't get stuck like some people who think their way is the only way. Be open minded and you will learn so much more!!
The simplicity of the application of the fibers - two techniques - is a real time saver. EP eyes with stems will last longer in many situations. Zap thin CA penetrates better in the tying process and Loon UV Clear Fly Finish thin creates a head that will stand up to many fish. I found the video helpful....TKS
Bob Steenrod, zap is too sketchy to work with for this application IMO. I can put down a dab of HH and then touch fibers to it without them instantly binding together, with zap you can't. So, unless you're waiting for it to dry completely in between each application you're running the risk of wrecking the fly because things get stuck together unintentionally. Also, HH really penetrates exceptionally well, as well as any other head cement I've ever used (I've used a shitload of them), it also dries clear whereas Zap dries a cloudy chalky white. If you've never tried HH, you should. As for the eyes, you're right, but it's a cost thing. A pack of 10 sets of EP eyes costs what? $5? $6? I get 500 3D stick on eyes for $2 on eBay, and can get 4-10 fish out of a fly before it loses an eye. Plus, the fly still works perfectly fine with the eyes missing. Also, UV resin is softer than HH of standard loon Hard Head, not to mention 1/7 the price. UV has the benefit of setting up instantly, but unless I'm tying for a fly for my own personal, immediate use, I prefer to use a finish that will best hold up to the task of protecting the thread from being damaged.
I followed you over from IG. Outstanding tutorial, man -- thorough, complete, and entertaining. Even to a Cheesehead who has never wet a line in the salt. Maybe I need to try an EP bluegill or perch for predators. I've never touched the stuff. Carry on!
Great to see someone take it easy and TELL us how to trim it instead of just showing a "here is one I made earlier" fully trimmed one. One question though. Me being a country boy ( or old fart) I hate to throw away stuff so: Do you use the "cutoffs" for dubbing etc???
I don’t save my scraps. I used to, but stopped because I never did anything with them. I am admittedly a very wasteful fly tier, but “ain’t nobody got time for that”
@gstizzlack4759 so true...I have boxes and boxes and bags of cut-off materials that i was going to use...very rarely ever do!! But, for some reason I can not get myself to throw them away. It is always, "I will need this "crap" as soon as I throw it away" So, I have found a sure fire way of never needing this saved material...ready?? I save it...taa daa...I never need it again!!😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
You’re absolutely right. I’m just not a fan of using the Mono thread. It doesn’t catch onto the fibers the same way traditional threads do, it has a few other characteristics the make tying with it tricky. I don’t feel like the fly benefits from it enough to warrant the headaches, the eyes I use typically cover most of the thread wraps anyway. But you are absolutely right, mono thread is how Enrico does it... I use mono thread when I tie with other mono synthetic materials like supreme hair, SF flash blend, etc.
14:21 - "once it gets in the water it's all going to profile down." no...it won't. water makes things flare out, not slim down. like Bob Popvics said, "the way it looks on the vice is how it will look in the water."
@@gstizzlack4759 I encourage you to test your theory on video in a fish tank. The idea that these fibers "lay down" under water defies physics. Your fly will look under water as it looks dry on the vise. This is especially true of ep flies
I'm not sure what vids you were seeing that were "garbage." I have found and used several EP videos that are much easier to tie. That being said, you fly does look good...
dominic potente Yes, some are too thick and those that are really don’t fish well. However, there are numerous quality tied vids that are much more sparse, much easier to tie, and fish exceedingly well.
"super glue is too volatile" Volatility refers to how fast something evaporates. Fast evaporation =fast drying. That's the EXACT reason it is the optimal adhesive for fly tying
It sets quickly when it’s pressed down, but if you have excess superglue “pooled” on your tying area then that extra amount will sit, liquid, ready to bond indiscriminately to anything that touches it, which means “oops, I set the material onto the shank of the hook, and now I want to move it.” Well too bad, because now the super glue has stuck to everything including your fingers, and now everything is fucked. However, if you are using a fly cement, for the purpose of bonding as you go that doesn’t set immediately to anything that touches it, you’ll have some room for error. Don’t believe me? Tie a base layer of thread onto a hook shank, and put a drop of super glue on it. Wait 2 min and touch any fly material to the hook shake. It now instantly has super glue all over it, which will dry chalky white. Hard as hull dries clear, so it won’t leave unsightly glue marks on your fly. I’m sure if you were trying to tie a fly and fish it right away, then a tiny amount of super glue, applied just when/where you whip off your finished product, would allow you to instantly use the fly, but in this instance I stand by my statement. Super glue is highly Volitile, it leave little to no room for error, and can leave unsightly blemishes on a fly. I don’t recommend super glue for bond as you go, or finishing cement applications.
Those are probably the worst trimming scissors he could use for EP flies, which is why he has to fast forward, because it is taking him forever. I mean, the whole point of coming here is for guys to learn and they can't because he's fast forwarding through it (because he's using the incorrect scissors). You want long sharp scissors and it will take you about 30 seconds and a dozen cuts. Also those exposed thread wraps are proof this is a poor tie. Your thread wraps should not be exposed on an EP peanut
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 91 | คู่เอก "คมอาวุธ vs อเล็กเซย์"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/V0RkEfYFsgM/mqdefault.jpg)
Smart tip on the thread needing to be behind the clump of fiber. I think folks take for granted how long it takes to figure little tricks like that out on your own.
I wish I had found this a long time ago.
Less is definitely more. Use of small packets works so much better. Your instructions are most informative.
So much great information in this video. Really good consistent way to tying. Thank you for sharing this precious video.
Good looking fly! I want to try something like this to imitate peanut bunker or herring in saltwater, and sunfish or perch in freshwater. I just need to adjust sizes, colors, and proportions.
Well explained and very efficient use of thread wraps. And I agree that most of the EP baitfish videos are crap
The best video on this style of fly, hands down.
Thank you!
I learned a whole lot from this!
Unique methods of tying in hair and clean way of applying eyes - I learned from this and really enjoyed it. I like your style. thanks.
hey, this helped me loads, best tutorial there is out there. thank you !
Love all the information provided. That's the biggest frustration when your a novice tier like myself. Great job!
Loved the snarky comments, i was laughing! Great vid
That is the RIGHT way to stack EP Fiber for the classic EP Minnow. Good job!
Yes, there are a bunch of "short-cut" ways to do it, but NONE of them result in a life-like suspending minnow pattern that is a spooky-wicked KILLER in the backcountry and on protected flats. This is how you get the neutral buoyancy pattern that you can let sit in front a Snook's face and barely twitch until he can't stand it anymore. Bam! This pattern has a FLAT profile and is very sparse.
What most people tie is the mullet version, which is fine for adult Tarpon, Bull Reds, etc. This has a round profile and the fibers are more dense. The mullet version will sink faster and must be fished with long, smooth strips...usually slowly.
A pro tip i would like to add is make yourself a template. Trim a perfect fly, whatever YOU think is perfect for you.
Then trace the fly onto a recipe card. After, you can laminate this. Now you have the exact shape you want. You can tie a pile of these, tease the fibers out, and cut a perfect shape every time!!
One more suggestion, don't cut a light colored fly over a white/cream background. Use a blue colored background. Even tying flies with a white background is very straining on your eyes.
Slip a blue background behind your vise or on your tying desk and you will feel your eyes relax immediately. Seriously, try it, you will see!!
You do come off sparky for sure. Flat eyes are awesome. No weight. For a fly you want to suspend and not dive, flat eyes are the way to go. There is a place for 3D and flat eyes. To the young tiers, don't get stuck like some people who think their way is the only way. Be open minded and you will learn so much more!!
The simplicity of the application of the fibers - two techniques - is a real time saver.
EP eyes with stems will last longer in many situations.
Zap thin CA penetrates better in the tying process and Loon UV Clear Fly Finish thin creates a head that will stand up to many fish.
I found the video helpful....TKS
Bob Steenrod, zap is too sketchy to work with for this application IMO. I can put down a dab of HH and then touch fibers to it without them instantly binding together, with zap you can't. So, unless you're waiting for it to dry completely in between each application you're running the risk of wrecking the fly because things get stuck together unintentionally. Also, HH really penetrates exceptionally well, as well as any other head cement I've ever used (I've used a shitload of them), it also dries clear whereas Zap dries a cloudy chalky white. If you've never tried HH, you should. As for the eyes, you're right, but it's a cost thing. A pack of 10 sets of EP eyes costs what? $5? $6? I get 500 3D stick on eyes for $2 on eBay, and can get 4-10 fish out of a fly before it loses an eye. Plus, the fly still works perfectly fine with the eyes missing.
Also, UV resin is softer than HH of standard loon Hard Head, not to mention 1/7 the price. UV has the benefit of setting up instantly, but unless I'm tying for a fly for my own personal, immediate use, I prefer to use a finish that will best hold up to the task of protecting the thread from being damaged.
Nice job. I learned a few things and laughed too.
Excellent video!
Thanks that was we'll done
Nice job 😊
Impressed all the way through.
I followed you over from IG. Outstanding tutorial, man -- thorough, complete, and entertaining. Even to a Cheesehead who has never wet a line in the salt. Maybe I need to try an EP bluegill or perch for predators. I've never touched the stuff. Carry on!
Great to see someone take it easy and TELL us how to trim it instead of just showing a "here is one I made earlier" fully trimmed one.
One question though. Me being a country boy ( or old fart) I hate to throw away stuff so: Do you use the "cutoffs" for dubbing etc???
I don’t save my scraps. I used to, but stopped because I never did anything with them. I am admittedly a very wasteful fly tier, but “ain’t nobody got time for that”
@gstizzlack4759 so true...I have boxes and boxes and bags of cut-off materials that i was going to use...very rarely ever do!! But, for some reason I can not get myself to throw them away. It is always, "I will need this "crap" as soon as I throw it away"
So, I have found a sure fire way of never needing this saved material...ready?? I save it...taa daa...I never need it again!!😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
EP ties this fly with mono so you can see both colors 👍
You’re absolutely right. I’m just not a fan of using the Mono thread. It doesn’t catch onto the fibers the same way traditional threads do, it has a few other characteristics the make tying with it tricky. I don’t feel like the fly benefits from it enough to warrant the headaches, the eyes I use typically cover most of the thread wraps anyway. But you are absolutely right, mono thread is how Enrico does it... I use mono thread when I tie with other mono synthetic materials like supreme hair, SF flash blend, etc.
I just realized that every single negative comment on this video, is exclusively from you. You’re worthless, dude.
"After you cut that shit off" lol xD
Very nice. Do you have a commercial site?
No, I don’t. I’ve kinda fallen off from active SM tying.
AANNNNDDD do you have a link for the "eye guy"???
Lol, no I don’t, but just punch in “3D doll eyes” into the eBay search bar.
Where do you get your eyes from
elvis solis, eBay. Search mostly found them listed as “doll eyes”
14:21 - "once it gets in the water it's all going to profile down."
no...it won't. water makes things flare out, not slim down. like Bob Popvics said, "the way it looks on the vice is how it will look in the water."
@@gstizzlack4759 I encourage you to test your theory on video in a fish tank. The idea that these fibers "lay down" under water defies physics.
Your fly will look under water as it looks dry on the vise. This is especially true of ep flies
Nice, looks like a little bird when it’s dry lol
I'm not sure what vids you were seeing that were "garbage." I have found and used several EP videos that are much easier to tie. That being said, you fly does look good...
There way to thick use way to much fiber they look good fish like shit. This is the only video I would watch for legit ep minnow
dominic potente Yes, some are too thick and those that are really don’t fish well. However, there are numerous quality tied vids that are much more sparse, much easier to tie, and fish exceedingly well.
"super glue is too volatile"
Volatility refers to how fast something evaporates. Fast evaporation =fast drying. That's the EXACT reason it is the optimal adhesive for fly tying
It sets quickly when it’s pressed down, but if you have excess superglue “pooled” on your tying area then that extra amount will sit, liquid, ready to bond indiscriminately to anything that touches it, which means “oops, I set the material onto the shank of the hook, and now I want to move it.” Well too bad, because now the super glue has stuck to everything including your fingers, and now everything is fucked. However, if you are using a fly cement, for the purpose of bonding as you go that doesn’t set immediately to anything that touches it, you’ll have some room for error. Don’t believe me? Tie a base layer of thread onto a hook shank, and put a drop of super glue on it. Wait 2 min and touch any fly material to the hook shake. It now instantly has super glue all over it, which will dry chalky white. Hard as hull dries clear, so it won’t leave unsightly glue marks on your fly. I’m sure if you were trying to tie a fly and fish it right away, then a tiny amount of super glue, applied just when/where you whip off your finished product, would allow you to instantly use the fly, but in this instance I stand by my statement. Super glue is highly Volitile, it leave little to no room for error, and can leave unsightly blemishes on a fly. I don’t recommend super glue for bond as you go, or finishing cement applications.
It’s not a two oh it’s a two-ought my guy
I've only been watching this video for 4 minutes, and this guy is being so disrespectful and snarky.
It’s kind of my thing. It’s not for everybody. Maybe try mute?
Those are probably the worst trimming scissors he could use for EP flies, which is why he has to fast forward, because it is taking him forever. I mean, the whole point of coming here is for guys to learn and they can't because he's fast forwarding through it (because he's using the incorrect scissors).
You want long sharp scissors and it will take you about 30 seconds and a dozen cuts.
Also those exposed thread wraps are proof this is a poor tie. Your thread wraps should not be exposed on an EP peanut