I was following along on my watch thinking I’d just be removing the oscillating weight. Then you removed the automatic works plate as well. I panicked for a second but I carefully followed your steps. I was able to regulate my watch. Thank you so much.
You can also drag the regulating arm back with a hook if the watch is running too fast, set the fine adjustmet screw to the middle of the range, and then advance the arm by pushing it forward until you get *close*, then it is just a matter of using the fine screw to adjust for multiple positions using the timegrapher. You do need to make a hook tool if you haven't got one and be mindful of the hairspring but this can save you a lot of time in the long run and you don't have to worry about that darn rotor screw that does not want to go in its hole nicely but loves to shoot out of your tweezers never to be seen again. Like the case clamp screws- I swear there must be a dozen of them in my vacuum cleaner.
Thank you for showing how to remove the items necessary to do the adjustment! First time regulating an ETA movement. There were a few heart stopping moments where I either almost destroyed the movement or lost screws. You really have to be very careful. I even had to do it twice as the movement went off after I put it back together the first time. Got it all back together in 1 piece the 2nd time and regulated. God must have been catching my misses and preventing further catastrophic damage! I don't think I want to try it again unless I get proper good quality watch making tools and have a proper place to work on the watch. Thank you for showing the steps again!
For those who are failing to understand the principles outlined is this video allow me to make things clear. Firstly the automatic works has to be removed in order to access the main (course) regulator as regulation other than for a few seconds per day cannot be achieved with the (fine) micro adjustment screw. So if your watch is outside of what can be achieved with the micro adjustment (+/- a few seconds) then a course regulation is required and this is when the automatic works has to be removed to access the regulator which has to be moved in very small increments with a piece of very fine Pegwood. Basically you are either increasing the active length of the balance spring by moving the index with its curb pins along the spring to make the watch lose or by shortening it to make the watch gain. It is wise to ensure the movement is clean and in good condition before attempting such adjustment. You may not get it right after the first attempt so go to work carefully making only very small incremental changes. Also, you may have to move the stud in order to adjust beat error after such adjustments. Remember that these adjustments are very small and even a touch too much will radically alter the timing. So if you are unpracticed leave it to someone with experience!
@@nikone4129 clockwise makes it faster by effectively shortening the working length of the hairspring and counterclockwise makes it slower by the same principle. And you don't actually have to remove anything- if your watch is slow you can nudge the arm with a fine scredriver and if fast you can carefully hook the arm with a hook tool and pull it back, then nudge it forward to get you back to fine adjustment.
Correct except you don't actually *have* to remove anything, and you should correct beat error FIRST as it will throw off timing, if you adjust timing first you'll likely end up having to readjust it.
Thanks very very much for the explanation. I could'nt regulate my HANOWA Swiss Military watch (STP 1-11) properly until I found the hidden regulating-pin ;-)
I've found that ETA 2824-2 and SW200 movements are close enough that the adjustment screw is all that needs attention. My ETA gains 3 secs per 24 hours continuous wear, measures a wee bit better (dial up only) I'm happy with that. One of the SW200 can get a bit closer but sometimes dips into "minus" territory, I'd rather it stayed advanced even at the expense of a little accuracy. I find them to be very consistent movements.
Excellent video, thanks! Very well-paced and informative. However, there is one thing I am wondering about: is it necessary to remove both rotor and automatic work plate just to trim the micro-regulator screw?
Thanks very much for this! Very clear & informative. Gave me the confidence to try it myself this evening. Although I was unable to make the adjustment because my screwdrivers, from a cheap watch repair toolkit, are too rounded to exert enough torque to turn the adjustment screw, I was able to remove and replace the oscillating weight and the automatic work plate, and to clearly feel the plate engaging as it went in place.
Thank you. I am glad it helped. :). May I recommend two sets of screwdrivers. 1. This set from Amazon was the second one I bought and it is of great quality. Also within the budget of a hobbyist. Professional Screwdriver Kit by W&S for Watches, Glasses and Accessories: (10pc Tool Set) - to Adjust, Remove, Replace and Repair - Stainless Steel Professional - 10 Piece www.amazon.com/dp/B07K1PMZ5P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LkLKFb5X4V0E6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 2. I eventually bought this set from Bergeon (Bergeon 30081-S09) and they are exceptional, however come at a premium price. www.ofrei.com/page1361.html Best regards!
@@issawatchesandwatchmaking9429 Just ordered the set from Amazon. Otto Frei is a dangerous site! Looks like everything you need as you get experience, and quality stuff too. Something to look forward to down the road.
Don’t know if you meant dangerous in terms of cybersecurity or in terms of how much stuff they have. If its the former, rest assured that once you are in the checkout page it has full SSL security. If its the latter, yes its dangerous ... trust me once you go down the rabbit hole on watch tools, it’s difficult to stop hehe. Here is another material house I use: www.esslinger.com/
I have a Superocean II with this movement (or Sellita I'm not sure), it runs about 15s/d fast while the amplitude and beat error are good. I'm tempted to open it and try regulating but nervous, I think I'll just pay someone else to do it.
I wish this showed how to regulate the time past turning the micro adjustment screw. I have a watch that is 30 seconds slow a day. I don't see a reason to pull off the automatic works if you were going to only adjust the speed using the micro adjustment screw. That's self explanatory with - and + markings. What about if that isn't enough? This video stole my thunder. 😞
Thank you for this post. My junghans out of the box was 30 seconds slow. I was going to disassemble like in the video until I saw your post that the micro adjustment would be able to fix it. Sure enough it is now within a few seconds a day and I only used the micro adjustment, thanks again.
Question....I recently banged my Hamilton Khaki 2824-2 movement....and I think the rotor is making a little more noise than usual....but I can't be sure as I didn't really look for noise before the knock .... What could go wrong with a movement after a knock ? It's really off in the time graph in different positions?
Hello. I try to remove rotor wheel on Pt5000 but it does not behave like in Your eta2824. After removing small screw from the top, I am not able to take rotor off. Something keeps it from detaching. It lloks like there is small gear at the bottom of rotor and I am afraid to use force to detache it from rest of watch. Can You help me ?
@@issawatchesandwatchmaking9429 is that +/-5 if it is turned from one end to the other ? Amazing video by the way !!! I am trying to understand whether I should try the fine regulating adjustment on my 9s86 movement, it's not an ETA, but looks very similar ? My watch is currently running at -1.5 secs per day, consistently
@@issawatchesandwatchmaking9429 I wish your video showed how to adjust the course stud to regulate a watch that is slow by 30 seconds a day or more. I don't see the point of removing the automatic works and not do that.
I am sorry but, why remove the weight and those other pieces to just make a micro adjustment? I understand if you need to use Gross Regulation screw but the fine screw is completely accessible without any dissassembly. Is there any other reason I am not seeing? Thanks
Hi! Great question. You are correct. There is no need to remove the weight and automatic works if only a microadjustment is to be made using the screw. Only if a gross adjustment or beat correction is necessary should these parts be removed. Don’t remember if I mentioned it in the video, but thank you for bringing it up because it is very important. Best!
@@issawatchesandwatchmaking9429 thank you for the confirmation, now I just need to get brave enough to adjust my new watch. I am hating the +4/5 secs a day, ETA top grade.... I did this in the past on a 4r35 seiko, and I achieved +2 a day, but to touch such expensive movement makes me worry 😅
I hear you! Hehe. I remember working my first ETA, was sacred to even touch the thing. What I did was I bought a Chinese clone (Seagull ST2130) and practiced servicing/regulating that one before taking on the real thing. It did help a lot, although I don’t think you need to do this if you are just gonna regulate yours. If your watch is just +4-5 sec/day it should just take a tiny correction in the screw to bring it down to 0-2 sec/day. I would suggest you do this with an eye loupe, so you can gauge the movement of the screw better when adjusting. Also, have you timed in the other positions (Crown down, crown up, etc?). Did you time at full wind or 70-80% wind? Remember rate will be dependent on position, mainspring power, balance inertia, hairspring effective length (which is what you are adjusting with the screw), and friction. Best
@@issawatchesandwatchmaking9429 thank you for the valuable feedback, I guess I will try all what you have described during the next week before touching it, I only received it 3 days ago. I can also try all positions with the timegrapher.
@@issawatchesandwatchmaking9429 Thank you so much, exactly this was my question too. As I excercised already on some Chinese seagull movements. Now I feel confident to touch my Sellita SW200-1 and microregulate it.
Thank you for the video - very informative. Can you please share where did you got the case and dial. I would like to make a watch with ETA movement but only cases that I found are for Seiko wato and ones on AliExpress, this one looks like it is way higher quality. Thanks
Thank you! Here is the link for the case. Have to say it is the best case I have ever bought for making a watch. Top quality. www.ebay.com/itm/143143814318
amplitude is determined by the geartrain and mainspring assuming the watch is clean and lubed, unless you have a very large beat error. Many watchmakers like to use pegwood or a plastic pusher but I use a fine screwdriver- carefully. Same on the end stud to adjust beat error. The trick is to have your hand braced for control, usually I hold the screwdriver like a pencil and brace it on my middle finger against the movement holder.
@@clifflancaster4693 no sweat- do you understand how this works? It adjusts where the other end of the spring ends up and therefore how the impulse jewel on the balance centers bewtween the pins on either side of the pallet fork. If you understand this, then you can place the balance without the pallet fork in place and adjust so the impulse jewel is centered- then your watch will be close, say within about .3ms, and should self start with just a couple of winds of the crown. timegrapher is nice to have, but the cheaper model (1000)works just fine, no need to spend for the 1900 model to do the job.
There is a screw that came out of my Butterfly clasp. Phylida sent me replacements and they are Microscopic. I don't have a driver small enough and don't know what size to even get? The screw is about the size of a flea...
This screwdriver set should work for you. Professional Screwdriver Kit by W&S for Watches, Glasses and Accessories: (10pc Tool Set) - to Adjust, Remove, Replace and Repair - Stainless Steel Professional - 10 Piece www.amazon.com/dp/B07K1PMZ5P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_VR2VT89D7EJ55CY6M4WH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
@@issawatchesandwatchmaking9429 Thank You. I ended up taking to Jeweler and the screw had nothing to bite to. It just fell out of bracelet. So I ended up just wedging in the end of a tooth pick to keep the butterfly clasp mechanism from over extending
since the watch was only 21 seconds fast, he used micro adjustment, which you dont need to remove anything. it is just on the minus plus sign. for higher deviations (more than 60 seconds) one must use the regulation screw which is hidden.
In case you need to get to the gross adjustment. I don’t think he’s a professional instructor, but he is trying and answering the questions, so we did get value from this at zero cost.
Depends on where the mico adjust is currently, it's usually good for about +/- 15-20 seconds over it''s range. Obviously if you have only one hash mark left you are not gonna get it. But make sure you are accounting for all positions before adjusting anything, 5 seconds in one position can be 20 in another.
Obviously because you might need to use the gross adjustment. Not too difficult to understand. Read the answers to the questions and you will learn something.
@@orwellknew9112 But you didn't do this, nor did you explain how to do it to speed up or slow down the watch beyond the micro adjustment. Seems to be a big gripe here in the comment section, no offense. Might want to consider doing this in another video, because the internet doesn't make this information easy to find beyond "this is the course stud for bigger adjustments" yet doesn't show how to adjust it or which direction. You would corner the market for ETA 2424 self-help vids if you made a video on how to adjust this properly to speed up or slow down a watch that is 30+or- slow or fast.
Watch movements are specific for the case they are in. Mostly due to their diameter (measured in lignes) and the stem height. The ETA equivalent for the Hamilton 694-a is the ETA 2472.
Kinda disappointing. Your title says Regulating the ETA 2824-2 movement but nothing was regulated. You merely showed how to take the auto works off which you have to admit isn't the most difficult thing to do. You did shoe another different movement on the testor but there's no instruction involved. Maybe change the title to "Removing the auto works of an ETA 2824-2 movement"? It would be for more accurate than to have it say one thing and not do it. Or, better still how about a part 2 where you finish the project???
I mean, that is the title. Even in the description. Regulating is pretty straight forward. Push regulating pin if you need bigger adjustments, else adjust the micro regulator screw for smaller adjustments.
@@gundamOPS It would be valuable if someone went through the entire process, including beat error, gross regulation and fine regulation while connected to the timegrapher. Marc did a short version on his Long Island watch TH-cam channel under his “watch and learn” playlist.
@@orwellknew9112 100%. I am here to see how to make larger adjustments to a watch that is 30 seconds fast. This video is worthless and removing the auto works hoping it would be shown was like a girl lifting her top only to have her mom come in the room and she throws a coat over herself. What a let down.
@@gundamOPS "even in the description" what the description says: In this video I demonstrate how to remove the automatic works in order to properly regulate the ETA 2824-2. 🙄
They are two different things. The movement is the entire mechanical part of the watch. The automatic works are the part of the movement responsible for automatically winding the movement when the weight moves around (that is the part he removes in the video). Some movements do not have an automatic works, and can only be wound by hand using the crown.
I was following along on my watch thinking I’d just be removing the oscillating weight. Then you removed the automatic works plate as well. I panicked for a second but I carefully followed your steps. I was able to regulate my watch. Thank you so much.
You can also drag the regulating arm back with a hook if the watch is running too fast, set the fine adjustmet screw to the middle of the range, and then advance the arm by pushing it forward until you get *close*, then it is just a matter of using the fine screw to adjust for multiple positions using the timegrapher. You do need to make a hook tool if you haven't got one and be mindful of the hairspring but this can save you a lot of time in the long run and you don't have to worry about that darn rotor screw that does not want to go in its hole nicely but loves to shoot out of your tweezers never to be seen again. Like the case clamp screws- I swear there must be a dozen of them in my vacuum cleaner.
Thank you for showing how to remove the items necessary to do the adjustment! First time regulating an ETA movement. There were a few heart stopping moments where I either almost destroyed the movement or lost screws. You really have to be very careful. I even had to do it twice as the movement went off after I put it back together the first time.
Got it all back together in 1 piece the 2nd time and regulated. God must have been catching my misses and preventing further catastrophic damage! I don't think I want to try it again unless I get proper good quality watch making tools and have a proper place to work on the watch.
Thank you for showing the steps again!
For those who are failing to understand the principles outlined is this video allow me to make things clear. Firstly the automatic works has to be removed in order to access the main (course) regulator as regulation other than for a few seconds per day cannot be achieved with the (fine) micro adjustment screw. So if your watch is outside of what can be achieved with the micro adjustment (+/- a few seconds) then a course regulation is required and this is when the automatic works has to be removed to access the regulator which has to be moved in very small increments with a piece of very fine Pegwood. Basically you are either increasing the active length of the balance spring by moving the index with its curb pins along the spring to make the watch lose or by shortening it to make the watch gain.
It is wise to ensure the movement is clean and in good condition before attempting such adjustment. You may not get it right after the first attempt so go to work carefully making only very small incremental changes.
Also, you may have to move the stud in order to adjust beat error after such adjustments.
Remember that these adjustments are very small and even a touch too much will radically alter the timing. So if you are unpracticed leave it to someone with experience!
It would help if you specified which direction on the course stud makes it faster and which direction makes it slower.
@@nikone4129 clockwise makes it faster by effectively shortening the working length of the hairspring and counterclockwise makes it slower by the same principle. And you don't actually have to remove anything- if your watch is slow you can nudge the arm with a fine scredriver and if fast you can carefully hook the arm with a hook tool and pull it back, then nudge it forward to get you back to fine adjustment.
Correct except you don't actually *have* to remove anything, and you should correct beat error FIRST as it will throw off timing, if you adjust timing first you'll likely end up having to readjust it.
Thanks very very much for the explanation. I could'nt regulate my HANOWA Swiss Military watch (STP 1-11) properly until I found the hidden regulating-pin ;-)
I've found that ETA 2824-2 and SW200 movements are close enough that the adjustment screw is all that needs attention. My ETA gains 3 secs per 24 hours continuous wear, measures a wee bit better (dial up only) I'm happy with that. One of the SW200 can get a bit closer but sometimes dips into "minus" territory, I'd rather it stayed advanced even at the expense of a little accuracy. I find them to be very consistent movements.
I want to thank you very much for this incredible tutorial.
Excellent video, thanks! Very well-paced and informative. However, there is one thing I am wondering about: is it necessary to remove both rotor and automatic work plate just to trim the micro-regulator screw?
No it was a useless video
Nope.
Nop x2
EXACTLY! I was hoping he was going to show how to speed up or slow down the watch using the course stud. Nope. 🤦♂
Thanks very much for this! Very clear & informative. Gave me the confidence to try it myself this evening. Although I was unable to make the adjustment because my screwdrivers, from a cheap watch repair toolkit, are too rounded to exert enough torque to turn the adjustment screw, I was able to remove and replace the oscillating weight and the automatic work plate, and to clearly feel the plate engaging as it went in place.
Thank you. I am glad it helped. :). May I recommend two sets of screwdrivers.
1. This set from Amazon was the second one I bought and it is of great quality. Also within the budget of a hobbyist. Professional Screwdriver Kit by W&S for Watches, Glasses and Accessories: (10pc Tool Set) - to Adjust, Remove, Replace and Repair - Stainless Steel Professional - 10 Piece www.amazon.com/dp/B07K1PMZ5P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LkLKFb5X4V0E6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
2. I eventually bought this set from Bergeon (Bergeon 30081-S09) and they are exceptional, however come at a premium price. www.ofrei.com/page1361.html
Best regards!
@@issawatchesandwatchmaking9429 Just ordered the set from Amazon. Otto Frei is a dangerous site! Looks like everything you need as you get experience, and quality stuff too. Something to look forward to down the road.
Don’t know if you meant dangerous in terms of cybersecurity or in terms of how much stuff they have. If its the former, rest assured that once you are in the checkout page it has full SSL security. If its the latter, yes its dangerous ... trust me once you go down the rabbit hole on watch tools, it’s difficult to stop hehe. Here is another material house I use: www.esslinger.com/
@@issawatchesandwatchmaking9429 Definitely the latter: they have way too many keeper tools that I didn't realize I was so in need of.
I have a Superocean II with this movement (or Sellita I'm not sure), it runs about 15s/d fast while the amplitude and beat error are good. I'm tempted to open it and try regulating but nervous, I think I'll just pay someone else to do it.
Great video does this have incabloc ?
There was no need to remove the rotor and the auto plate.
I regulated many watches not doing so.
How about adjustment ?
Thanks for the clip !
Never blow air into a movement, audience. Watchmaking 101!
Yeah use Rodico to tap away dust particles. Othewise the blower just stirs up more dust and air and more dust falls into the movement.
Good video! Can you tell me in what position to put the seatpost to remove it and not have problems when putting it back? Thank you
No way is my watch going to be more accurately if I'm the one doing the adjustment :D
5:23 Why did you cut ?? How to you adjust the movement ??? Turn clockwise or anticlockwise if the watch is too fast or too slow ?
Clockwise is faster.
I wish this showed how to regulate the time past turning the micro adjustment screw. I have a watch that is 30 seconds slow a day. I don't see a reason to pull off the automatic works if you were going to only adjust the speed using the micro adjustment screw. That's self explanatory with - and + markings. What about if that isn't enough? This video stole my thunder. 😞
Thank you for this post. My junghans out of the box was 30 seconds slow. I was going to disassemble like in the video until I saw your post that the micro adjustment would be able to fix it. Sure enough it is now within a few seconds a day and I only used the micro adjustment, thanks again.
So removing the automatic working plate, it does not require the watch to be completely wound down?
will it make sense to stop the watch?
EXCELENTE MÁQUINA 👍👍👍 🇧🇷
Question....I recently banged my Hamilton Khaki 2824-2 movement....and I think the rotor is making a little more noise than usual....but I can't be sure as I didn't really look for noise before the knock ....
What could go wrong with a movement after a knock ?
It's really off in the time graph in different positions?
Hello. I try to remove rotor wheel on Pt5000 but it does not behave like in Your eta2824. After removing small screw from the top, I am not able to take rotor off. Something keeps it from detaching. It lloks like there is small gear at the bottom of rotor and I am afraid to use force to detache it from rest of watch. Can You help me ?
Perfect !
Great Video !!! Quick question,, what size screwdriver do you recommend using for the fine tuning flathead screw ?
what screw driver size do you use for micro adjustment? thanks for sharing this video.
Good question, I would also love to know this answer too :)
Yeah we need to know
How many seconds plus or minus can you get out of the fine regulation screw adjustment?
In the range of +\-5
@@issawatchesandwatchmaking9429 Thank you.
@@issawatchesandwatchmaking9429 is that +/-5 if it is turned from one end to the other ? Amazing video by the way !!! I am trying to understand whether I should try the fine regulating adjustment on my 9s86 movement, it's not an ETA, but looks very similar ? My watch is currently running at -1.5 secs per day, consistently
@@issawatchesandwatchmaking9429 I wish your video showed how to adjust the course stud to regulate a watch that is slow by 30 seconds a day or more. I don't see the point of removing the automatic works and not do that.
I am sorry but, why remove the weight and those other pieces to just make a micro adjustment? I understand if you need to use Gross Regulation screw but the fine screw is completely accessible without any dissassembly. Is there any other reason I am not seeing? Thanks
Hi! Great question. You are correct. There is no need to remove the weight and automatic works if only a microadjustment is to be made using the screw. Only if a gross adjustment or beat correction is necessary should these parts be removed. Don’t remember if I mentioned it in the video, but thank you for bringing it up because it is very important.
Best!
@@issawatchesandwatchmaking9429 thank you for the confirmation, now I just need to get brave enough to adjust my new watch. I am hating the +4/5 secs a day, ETA top grade.... I did this in the past on a 4r35 seiko, and I achieved +2 a day, but to touch such expensive movement makes me worry 😅
I hear you! Hehe. I remember working my first ETA, was sacred to even touch the thing. What I did was I bought a Chinese clone (Seagull ST2130) and practiced servicing/regulating that one before taking on the real thing. It did help a lot, although I don’t think you need to do this if you are just gonna regulate yours. If your watch is just +4-5 sec/day it should just take a tiny correction in the screw to bring it down to 0-2 sec/day. I would suggest you do this with an eye loupe, so you can gauge the movement of the screw better when adjusting. Also, have you timed in the other positions (Crown down, crown up, etc?). Did you time at full wind or 70-80% wind? Remember rate will be dependent on position, mainspring power, balance inertia, hairspring effective length (which is what you are adjusting with the screw), and friction.
Best
@@issawatchesandwatchmaking9429 thank you for the valuable feedback, I guess I will try all what you have described during the next week before touching it, I only received it 3 days ago. I can also try all positions with the timegrapher.
@@issawatchesandwatchmaking9429 Thank you so much, exactly this was my question too.
As I excercised already on some Chinese seagull movements. Now I feel confident to touch my Sellita SW200-1 and microregulate it.
Thank you for the video - very informative. Can you please share where did you got the case and dial. I would like to make a watch with ETA movement but only cases that I found are for Seiko wato and ones on AliExpress, this one looks like it is way higher quality.
Thanks
Thank you! Here is the link for the case. Have to say it is the best case I have ever bought for making a watch. Top quality. www.ebay.com/itm/143143814318
What tool would you use to adjust the amplitude or coarse rate adjustment studs?
amplitude is determined by the geartrain and mainspring assuming the watch is clean and lubed, unless you have a very large beat error. Many watchmakers like to use pegwood or a plastic pusher but I use a fine screwdriver- carefully. Same on the end stud to adjust beat error. The trick is to have your hand braced for control, usually I hold the screwdriver like a pencil and brace it on my middle finger against the movement holder.
@@mytuberforyou Sorry, yes meant beat error stud, not amplitude. Thank you.
@@clifflancaster4693 no sweat- do you understand how this works? It adjusts where the other end of the spring ends up and therefore how the impulse jewel on the balance centers bewtween the pins on either side of the pallet fork. If you understand this, then you can place the balance without the pallet fork in place and adjust so the impulse jewel is centered- then your watch will be close, say within about .3ms, and should self start with just a couple of winds of the crown. timegrapher is nice to have, but the cheaper model (1000)works just fine, no need to spend for the 1900 model to do the job.
Thanks for video! But how u install crown then ?
Nice
Clockwise is faster.
There is a screw that came out of my Butterfly clasp. Phylida sent me replacements and they are Microscopic. I don't have a driver small enough and don't know what size to even get? The screw is about the size of a flea...
This screwdriver set should work for you.
Professional Screwdriver Kit by W&S for Watches, Glasses and Accessories: (10pc Tool Set) - to Adjust, Remove, Replace and Repair - Stainless Steel Professional - 10 Piece www.amazon.com/dp/B07K1PMZ5P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_VR2VT89D7EJ55CY6M4WH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
@@issawatchesandwatchmaking9429 Thank You. I ended up taking to Jeweler and the screw had nothing to bite to. It just fell out of bracelet. So I ended up just wedging in the end of a tooth pick to keep the butterfly clasp mechanism from over extending
Basically you didn't show how to regulate. You just showed how to remove and reinstall automatic works. Typical.
He didn't know how to regulate it.
since the watch was only 21 seconds fast, he used micro adjustment, which you dont need to remove anything. it is just on the minus plus sign. for higher deviations (more than 60 seconds) one must use the regulation screw which is hidden.
why did he take all of those parts off to just turn the the regulating screw. unnecessary
In case you need to get to the gross adjustment. I don’t think he’s a professional instructor, but he is trying and answering the questions, so we did get value from this at zero cost.
Exactly. I think 90% of us are here to see the course adjustment regulation and it isn't shown. What a let down.
Mine is only 5 seconds slow each day. Could I just turn the micro adjust? Or would i need to disassemble it like you’re doing?
Micro adjust would be fine.
Depends on where the mico adjust is currently, it's usually good for about +/- 15-20 seconds over it''s range. Obviously if you have only one hash mark left you are not gonna get it. But make sure you are accounting for all positions before adjusting anything, 5 seconds in one position can be 20 in another.
Are you located in the USA?
🤔👍👍👍👍👍
The lift angle on a 2824-2 is 50 not 52.
Why did you show this? Why didnt you just regulate the fn thing??? You didnt have to dissassemble the watch!
Obviously because you might need to use the gross adjustment. Not too difficult to understand. Read the answers to the questions and you will learn something.
@@orwellknew9112 But you didn't do this, nor did you explain how to do it to speed up or slow down the watch beyond the micro adjustment. Seems to be a big gripe here in the comment section, no offense. Might want to consider doing this in another video, because the internet doesn't make this information easy to find beyond "this is the course stud for bigger adjustments" yet doesn't show how to adjust it or which direction. You would corner the market for ETA 2424 self-help vids if you made a video on how to adjust this properly to speed up or slow down a watch that is 30+or- slow or fast.
you didn't show you doing any adjustment.
I think he forgot to. Not a professional teacher.
You do not need to remove anything to regulate that movement
Can you put this movement in any watch ? My Hamilton 694-a movement died , would this be good replacement in the case ?
Watch movements are specific for the case they are in. Mostly due to their diameter (measured in lignes) and the stem height. The ETA equivalent for the Hamilton 694-a is the ETA 2472.
Kinda disappointing. Your title says Regulating the ETA 2824-2 movement but nothing was regulated. You merely showed how to take the auto works off which you have to admit isn't the most difficult thing to do. You did shoe another different movement on the testor but there's no instruction involved. Maybe change the title to "Removing the auto works of an ETA 2824-2 movement"? It would be for more accurate than to have it say one thing and not do it. Or, better still how about a part 2 where you finish the project???
I mean, that is the title. Even in the description. Regulating is pretty straight forward. Push regulating pin if you need bigger adjustments, else adjust the micro regulator screw for smaller adjustments.
@@gundamOPS It would be valuable if someone went through the entire process, including beat error, gross regulation and fine regulation while connected to the timegrapher. Marc did a short version on his Long Island watch TH-cam channel under his “watch and learn” playlist.
@@orwellknew9112 100%. I am here to see how to make larger adjustments to a watch that is 30 seconds fast. This video is worthless and removing the auto works hoping it would be shown was like a girl lifting her top only to have her mom come in the room and she throws a coat over herself. What a let down.
@@gundamOPS "even in the description" what the description says: In this video I demonstrate how to remove the automatic works in order to properly regulate the ETA 2824-2. 🙄
@@orwellknew9112 Do you have a link for that video?
Automatic works, Automatic works, Automatic works, Automatic works. Thats all you hear in this video. Just say "movement".
They are two different things. The movement is the entire mechanical part of the watch.
The automatic works are the part of the movement responsible for automatically winding the movement when the weight moves around (that is the part he removes in the video).
Some movements do not have an automatic works, and can only be wound by hand using the crown.