I've been watching a guy who restored(s) watches in Seattle for two or three years now. I am a year away from retirement and now that I've found this channel, I really think I know what I will be doing in retirement. Making mechanical watches lovely again.
Brilliant tutorial, I had tried to understand this method from a written explanation which confused the hell out of me.....your visual explanation has given me the Eureka moment, thank you so much for sharing your skills and knowledge....👍👏👏👏
I have been watching your channel for a few weeks now and have learned a lot from your instructions. Thank you very much sir for sharing your time with all of us.
A really clear explanation, and yes, it is very cool. I really like the fact that the calibration is done using something that is not only simple, but something we know, and can confirm, to be true. (180 degrees). Very satisfying to watch. Thank you.👍
Love all your tutorial videos and find them very helpful and informative. What a great way to calculate lift angle for time graph calibration. Thanks for your work, its really great!
Loving your course. This video in particular helped me understand the mechanics of how a watch regulates time with a variable power source. Thank you so much!
Excellent, excellent! Thank you for this great tip. It's fortunate that the movement can be "under-powered" in order to bring it to a balance-wheel amplitude of 180 degrees (but if we wind too much, we can quickly release the mainspring again and start over, winding more carefully; but, you got it right on the first "go"). The visual method of observing and marking the balance wheel to allow us to see it as we bring it to a 180-degree swing brings all this together, and gives a good and solid visceral feel and understanding for the meaning of "amplitude", and for lift angle. Kudos! I am particularly grateful to you for this great tip because I have been working on some quite old pocket watches, plus some other obscure movements for which I have not found a published value of lift angle for the movements. Now I will be able to determine the lift angles and get more true diagnostic readings (thanks again to the great method you so kindly teach here). You should be pleased that you are helping many of us! And I feel that the only way we can pay you back is for us to help others. It's good to keep the circle going... . Cheers!, and very best greetings from the Arizona desert. --Joe / Tucson ARIZONA / W7DXW
Nice tip! Reminds me of when we would use a strobe light to set the points in a mechanical distributor in cars back before electronic ignition was used.
Best tip ever!! Just got an open box weishi 1000 and was trying it out. Using my Waltham 220 that is keeping time around 1 min a day or less. In auto, beat rate 18000 and lift angle at 52 I was getting some “++++” as rate and amplitude over 300 and dots all over the screen. I did as you show here, now the amplitude is about 197 with a beat error 2ms and -83s/day, with parallel diagonal lines coming from the top left about 1/8” apart on screen I am trying it this way, without cleaning or any adjustments so I can see what really was before any maintenance. What am I doing wrong? I’d the machine bad? Thank you for the priceless information you share here!
@@ChronoglideWatchmaking love your video! Keep up the good work! I do have a question about Epilame application, can i do it on the watch plate? Or just the chaton?
Thank you for this video! I just purchased a Weishi 1900 timegrapher for approximately 200 USD. I don't know how you can tinker with watches without one!
Hi, Sir & to the other masterwatchmakers: Thank you for these great videos. You are a symphatic and very nice personality and do it with passion like your colleagues. I respect that very much. I always look forward to new videos from you & the other master watchmakers. Your profession is an art & valuable. I thank you for this valuable tip. I do not give compliments just the truth if I didn't like something I would mention it politely. I still have a lot to learn in my spare time about the art of watchmaking. Stay all health & happy. Best regards B.
Great video and great tip for calibrating the timegrapher. I really like when any calibration can be done accurately without additional tools or devices.
Thanks for the very interesting explanation. I’ve looked up a few of your videos as I just started tinkering with some of the watches of my recently started collection. I had already managed to regulate a Vostok 120512 with the 2415 movement to really good results (albeit it’s a bit irregular) but today I tackled reducing an NH35’s very high beat error from 1.6 ms to 0.0-0.1 ms in 4 positions. Really happy with how it turned out despite my initial reservations and limited hardware. Thanks for the help and amazing explanations.
Thank you for explaining the process and what to look for! Yesterday I watched a couple videos, the method was the same but there were no details enough in the explanation to understand the process itself! Love your channel and the level of detail and dedication you put in every video you make! Thank you!
Kalle that was a great tip on figuring amplitude and explained in a way that makes sense! Thank you for your compassion and dedication to the craft. Bravo Kalle!!💯👍👏
Kalle as always your horological tutorials are truly amazing and inspirational,and the trick about the lift angle is really great.Love your informative videos and your explanations are understandable for someone who is a novice in horology.Always keep an eye on the pings on my TH-cam channel for your videos.Thank you 👌👍
Excellent tip and explanation. I will test the technique using a known lift angle, but this seems to be a great way to go. I have often thought about how to use known variables to determine unknown variables using the time grapher and now I know. As I only work with vintage watches and pocket watches (watch repair is a hobby not a profession for me) often with unknown lift angles, this technique is going to be very helpful. Thanks.
Cool video! The warped spokes are due to the "frame rate" of the camera due to the fact that it is a rolling shutter. The sensor reads from the top to the bottom at a rapid rate, so any quick movements of the focus subject can appear as though they are bending. It's the same as how that side to side scanning tiktok filter works. If the camera had a global shutter, it would read the whole sensor at once at a rapid rate, and there would be no bending effect.
If you think about it, your display also has a rolling scanout. At 60Hz the rolling shutter of the camera would be well synchronised with a typical PC or TV display, and for moderately fast moving objects like these (a movement takes several frames), it can be invisible. But the camera is running at 30hz, emphasising the issue. High refresh displays would reveal the rolling shutter again though on 60Hz camera footage, but the artefact would be relatively milder. Scanout of the sensor is in turn the cause for rolling shutter. There are no mechanical shutter blades any longer. The shutter is regulated by draining each line a certain time in advance of when this line needs to be scanned out of the sensor module to the rest of the electronics, then it accumulates charge corresponding to light, then it gets scanned out. There used to be sensors without rolling shutter but they needed half the physical space in between the sensing lines dedicated to storing the charge in the interim during scanout, so they were losing some of the light that could be otherwise captured and contribute to lower noise.
Brilliant tip Kalle. Simple and effective. I’ve heard of this technique before but your explanation of it is so much clearer. Would you consider making a video on how the guard pin and roller interact with each other? Cheers
Thanks for the great tip in working out the LA of an unknown movement Kalle. I've been manually regulating (when necessary) all my collection of mechanical watches since I bought a timegrapher a few years ago, and welcome any theory and practices to improve my technique. 👍
So you establish 180 deg. of amplitude with a small wind of a mainspring, and then use the timegrapher to find the lift angle that fits with that known amplitude. I suppose this could be made a function of the timegrapher, but it's not a big effort to play with the lift angle until you see the actual amplitude registered. You didn't exaggerate: this is _neat_ !
Hi Kalle, clear explanation. Is it possible to put a stroboscope on your microscope, or even better if it has led lights already to have a stroboscope driver? It would be even better if you could take the output from the timegrapher so it is always synced up. With a stroboscope, not only will it be much more precise to see the 180 degrees, but it can also be used to spot weird defects in the whole balance assembly (spring/mass/etc) if it has a bad case of the weeble wobbles. On a separate note, could you explain how the timegrapher works? I see multiple videos on how to _operate_ a timegrapher, and what functions it has, but none explain how the timegrapher converts its signal (a microphone if I'm not mistaken) into the numbers displayed on the screens. What calculations and assumptions does it make? When do I know I cannot trust the output anymore?
Amazing vídeo, I hace two questions: 1- is there any way in an Automatic modern watch to know if It is fully winded? 2- Is It correct to use the lift angle that comes in the specifications of the movement? Thank you.
Hello! H E L P ! This is so helpful. My question is in the video at 9:20 as your showing the mark at 180*, but you don’t explain which part are you adjusting. Is the “Timing Pings” or the “Stud” that your adjusting….? ? ? Thank you for all that you do.🙏🏻
Excellent explanation, Kalle! Thank you very much!! If the felt-tip mark is not removed, will there be a noticeable performance change on the wrist? Thanks again!!
That was exellent tip! Got me thinking, One could maby cobble up a stroposcope similar to that used to check on old cars. (Rover, 😜. Lucas, the inventor ov electrical darkness.. 😂) Anyway. One could also use it with a circular transparent angle scale. So to check correct amplitude visually. Have been pondering about how to do a similar setup, for set the balance in beat. As my cheapo TG, only have presets. Eg, now way to check the actual frequense. Getting one of those old tools. Should be a better way, in todays world. Or you might have a tip there too, Kalle?
Interesting thought, I know about a machine from Finland with uses the strobe effect, I saw it at Henrik Korpela's KHWCC in Le Locle. See if I can trace the details for you.
Have you tried the SLO-Mo video trick? Use your Smartphone to take a slow motion video of the balance wheel. You can play it back In slow motion and easily see how far the balance is rotating.
The balance wheel is swinging 180° both ways, so why isn't that an amplitude of 360° since it's rotating in a full circle? Does that mean that at a higher amplitude like 270° that the balance wheel rotation is actually a full circle and a half - 540°?
Only for calibration go to visual 180 degrees and set timegrapher to proper lift angle matching the 180, after that wind if full and see the real amplitude.
@@ChronoglideWatchmaking I see now. Make the amplitude 180 on the watch then make it 180 on the time grapher that gives you the lift angle. Very cool thanks for the help
I've been watching a guy who restored(s) watches in Seattle for two or three years now. I am a year away from retirement and now that I've found this channel, I really think I know what I will be doing in retirement. Making mechanical watches lovely again.
Very very cool tip!! So glad I found your channel!!
Very, very neat trick! You have so many of them Kalle and sharing them is extremely much appreciated! 😊
Can’t believe I’ve only just seen and learnt this tick. Thank you!
Finally , someone explains in detail so one can understand!!! Thank you very much!!!
Thank you so much for your support Frank!
This is an excellent video. Many thanks
Brilliant tutorial, I had tried to understand this method from a written explanation which confused the hell out of me.....your visual explanation has given me the Eureka moment, thank you so much for sharing your skills and knowledge....👍👏👏👏
So glad to hear that Phillip!
I have been watching your channel for a few weeks now and have learned a lot from your instructions. Thank you very much sir for sharing your time with all of us.
Thank you I have gained more insight. 🤝
Beautiful explaination.
👏
Bedankt voor de duidelijkheid, altijd handig deze instructie video's.
Once you said place a mark here and make sure you can see 180° across from it, it hit me, that’s brilliant. Truly amazing tip
I may have to visit the Netherlands just so I check out your shop. Thank you for so many informative and entertaining videos!
A really clear explanation, and yes, it is very cool. I really like the fact that the calibration is done using something that is not only simple, but something we know, and can confirm, to be true. (180 degrees). Very satisfying to watch. Thank you.👍
Love all your tutorial videos and find them very helpful and informative. What a great way to calculate lift angle for time graph calibration. Thanks for your work, its really great!
Thanks!!! That was great 👍
Loving your course. This video in particular helped me understand the mechanics of how a watch regulates time with a variable power source. Thank you so much!
Thanks so much for your time, you are an excellent teacher, you made it very easy to learn, I love watching your tutorial work shop online.
Excellent, excellent! Thank you for this great tip.
It's fortunate that the movement can be "under-powered" in order to bring it to a balance-wheel amplitude of 180 degrees (but if we wind too much, we can quickly release the mainspring again and start over, winding more carefully; but, you got it right on the first "go").
The visual method of observing and marking the balance wheel to allow us to see it as we bring it to a 180-degree swing brings all this together, and gives a good and solid visceral feel and understanding for the meaning of "amplitude", and for lift angle. Kudos!
I am particularly grateful to you for this great tip because I have been working on some quite old pocket watches, plus some other obscure movements for which I have not found a published value of lift angle for the movements. Now I will be able to determine the lift angles and get more true diagnostic readings (thanks again to the great method you so kindly teach here).
You should be pleased that you are helping many of us! And I feel that the only way we can pay you back is for us to help others. It's good to keep the circle going... .
Cheers!, and very best greetings from the Arizona desert.
--Joe / Tucson ARIZONA / W7DXW
Nice tip! Reminds me of when we would use a strobe light to set the points in a mechanical distributor in cars back before electronic ignition was used.
Best tip ever!! Just got an open box weishi 1000 and was trying it out. Using my Waltham 220 that is keeping time around 1 min a day or less. In auto, beat rate 18000 and lift angle at 52 I was getting some “++++” as rate and amplitude over 300 and dots all over the screen. I did as you show here, now the amplitude is about 197 with a beat error 2ms and -83s/day, with parallel diagonal lines coming from the top left about 1/8” apart on screen
I am trying it this way, without cleaning or any adjustments so I can see what really was before any maintenance.
What am I doing wrong? I’d the machine bad?
Thank you for the priceless information you share here!
That's so clever!
Another simple easy to understand explanation from you again Kalle. Thank you!
My pleasure Roland, much more to come!
Genius way to understand!Thank you so much
nice and clear. Now i need to buy the timegrapher to go with the technique.
The are so much more affordable than 15 years ago David. Good luck!
Very good and informative thanks and well done 👍
Thank you Peter!
Thank you very much for your time, it's very helpful session, I love your work, thanks again sir.
Got idea so clear, thank you so much
I'm glad I found your Channel ❤
I have developed a lot of intrest in Automatic Mechanical Watches ⌚ your explanations are very helpful.
Me encantan tus vídeos.
Un saludo desde españa
Gouden tip! Dank je wel!
Thank you! Kalle!!
My Pleasure Trey!
@@ChronoglideWatchmaking love your video! Keep up the good work! I do have a question about Epilame application, can i do it on the watch plate? Or just the chaton?
It’s a very useful video,help me a lot
Thanks sir
And here I like to share a new tip ,actually you can measure amplitude by iPhone’ slo-mo video
Very clear explanation. Thanks Kalle
Always nice to hear from you Cornelio!
This is so much easier than the other way I’ve seen to find the lift angle
That is so nice to hear Robert!
Thank you for this video! I just purchased a Weishi 1900 timegrapher for approximately 200 USD. I don't know how you can tinker with watches without one!
Excellent Andrew and I fully agree! Thank you for your support.
Hi, Sir & to the other masterwatchmakers: Thank you for these great videos. You are a symphatic and very nice personality and do it with passion like your colleagues. I respect that very much. I always look forward to new videos from you & the other master watchmakers. Your profession is an art & valuable. I thank you for this valuable tip. I do not give compliments just the truth if I didn't like something I would mention it politely. I still have a lot to learn in my spare time about the art of watchmaking. Stay all health & happy. Best regards B.
Great video. Thanks for sharing the knowledge. 😀
Fantastic.
WOW! very and very! simple and clear! thank you!
;o)
Thank you, video is help me to anderstand haw calibrate lift angle on old vintage watch, where no information on web
Great video and great tip for calibrating the timegrapher. I really like when any calibration can be done accurately without additional tools or devices.
So do I, "old school" is usually the best.
Very good video Kalle!!!
Please keep making videos like these 👏
Thank you, we will!
Bravo! This is a really clear explanation of lift angle, and a great tip for setting the correct angle using the timegrapher. Many thanks!
You can really explain so even I can understand. Thank you!
Really great tip, you're a genius. Simple and logical, I learn a lot with your vídeos. Thanks.
Sweet, thanks
Thanks Kalle, very elegant way of figuring out the lift angle :)
Especially for the older movements with not too much information Vincent. Nice to hear from you!
Thanks for the very interesting explanation. I’ve looked up a few of your videos as I just started tinkering with some of the watches of my recently started collection. I had already managed to regulate a Vostok 120512 with the 2415 movement to really good results (albeit it’s a bit irregular) but today I tackled reducing an NH35’s very high beat error from 1.6 ms to 0.0-0.1 ms in 4 positions. Really happy with how it turned out despite my initial reservations and limited hardware. Thanks for the help and amazing explanations.
Great, thank you
Thank you for explaining the process and what to look for! Yesterday I watched a couple videos, the method was the same but there were no details enough in the explanation to understand the process itself! Love your channel and the level of detail and dedication you put in every video you make! Thank you!
Fantastic explanation.
Very helpful thank you very much
There a video that shows how to adjust the timing tooth?
Kalle that was a great tip on figuring amplitude and explained in a way that makes sense! Thank you for your compassion and dedication to the craft.
Bravo Kalle!!💯👍👏
My pleasure David, so nice to hear!
Thanks!
Very good trick!
Thnx!
Really awesome and very informative video...
Thank you for your support Adnan!
Very smart, you need a global shutter on your camera to remove the warped spokes, that sensor has a rolling shutter which distorts moving items
Kalle as always your horological tutorials are truly amazing and inspirational,and the trick about the lift angle is really great.Love your informative videos and your explanations are understandable for someone who is a novice in horology.Always keep an eye on the pings on my TH-cam channel for your videos.Thank you 👌👍
Thank you so much for your support! Much more to come.
Excellent tip and explanation. I will test the technique using a known lift angle, but this seems to be a great way to go. I have often thought about how to use known variables to determine unknown variables using the time grapher and now I know. As I only work with vintage watches and pocket watches (watch repair is a hobby not a profession for me) often with unknown lift angles, this technique is going to be very helpful. Thanks.
Good to hear from you Hossein!
Good work! Great explanation.
Thank you so much Leon!
Good explanation Kalle!
Please let me know if you have any particular suggestions.
Well that was amazing
Thank you so much for your support
Cool tip.. Thank you Kalle 👍
Cheers!
Cool video!
The warped spokes are due to the "frame rate" of the camera due to the fact that it is a rolling shutter. The sensor reads from the top to the bottom at a rapid rate, so any quick movements of the focus subject can appear as though they are bending. It's the same as how that side to side scanning tiktok filter works.
If the camera had a global shutter, it would read the whole sensor at once at a rapid rate, and there would be no bending effect.
If you think about it, your display also has a rolling scanout. At 60Hz the rolling shutter of the camera would be well synchronised with a typical PC or TV display, and for moderately fast moving objects like these (a movement takes several frames), it can be invisible.
But the camera is running at 30hz, emphasising the issue.
High refresh displays would reveal the rolling shutter again though on 60Hz camera footage, but the artefact would be relatively milder.
Scanout of the sensor is in turn the cause for rolling shutter. There are no mechanical shutter blades any longer. The shutter is regulated by draining each line a certain time in advance of when this line needs to be scanned out of the sensor module to the rest of the electronics, then it accumulates charge corresponding to light, then it gets scanned out. There used to be sensors without rolling shutter but they needed half the physical space in between the sensing lines dedicated to storing the charge in the interim during scanout, so they were losing some of the light that could be otherwise captured and contribute to lower noise.
Brilliant tip Kalle. Simple and effective. I’ve heard of this technique before but your explanation of it is so much clearer.
Would you consider making a video on how the guard pin and roller interact with each other?
Cheers
Ahhh, the safety features of the Swiss Lever Escapement, I will Michael, Promise!
Thanks for the great tip in working out the LA of an unknown movement Kalle. I've been manually regulating (when necessary) all my collection of mechanical watches since I bought a timegrapher a few years ago, and welcome any theory and practices to improve my technique. 👍
Great to hear, Thnx!
Bloody brilliant.
Hahahahaha ;o)
So you establish 180 deg. of amplitude with a small wind of a mainspring, and then use the timegrapher to find the lift angle that fits with that known amplitude. I suppose this could be made a function of the timegrapher, but it's not a big effort to play with the lift angle until you see the actual amplitude registered. You didn't exaggerate: this is _neat_ !
Great video and tip! I would be great if you can also explain what IS the lift angle, using your escapement model, thanks! :)
❤️ loving it!
LOL
Hi Kalle, clear explanation. Is it possible to put a stroboscope on your microscope, or even better if it has led lights already to have a stroboscope driver? It would be even better if you could take the output from the timegrapher so it is always synced up. With a stroboscope, not only will it be much more precise to see the 180 degrees, but it can also be used to spot weird defects in the whole balance assembly (spring/mass/etc) if it has a bad case of the weeble wobbles.
On a separate note, could you explain how the timegrapher works? I see multiple videos on how to _operate_ a timegrapher, and what functions it has, but none explain how the timegrapher converts its signal (a microphone if I'm not mistaken) into the numbers displayed on the screens. What calculations and assumptions does it make? When do I know I cannot trust the output anymore?
Amazing vídeo, I hace two questions: 1- is there any way in an Automatic modern watch to know if It is fully winded? 2- Is It correct to use the lift angle that comes in the specifications of the movement? Thank you.
Thanks for the tip. Then the lift angle is only for the amplitude reading? Has nothing to do with the time error rate and the beat error?
Thanks for that but we're do you get watch parts from data sheet of the Internet for watches.
Hello!
H E L P !
This is so helpful.
My question is in the video at 9:20 as your showing the mark at 180*,
but you don’t explain which part are you adjusting.
Is the “Timing Pings” or the “Stud” that your adjusting….? ? ?
Thank you for all that you do.🙏🏻
Simply winding the movement slightly so the amplitude is slowly increasing.
Stroboscopic is a very good idea, to tunne watches . I always had that in my mind- But usually i prefer to consult the lift angles list.
I agree Juaquim.
i use slowmotion on my iphone, you can then quite easily see the amplitude
I wish to obtain the lift angle of my Cortébert Automatic CAL 451 that belong to my dad since 1960. Can you help? The ranfft site doesn’t carry it!
Any chance anyone know the Lift Angle for an ETA 2893-2? Thanks! PS Is there a website that lists LA for common movements? 4:04 Thanks!
Does anyone know the lift angle for the Lip T18 movement?
Excellent explanation, Kalle! Thank you very much!! If the felt-tip mark is not removed, will there be a noticeable performance change on the wrist? Thanks again!!
There will be no change, but it is so easy te remove.
That was exellent tip!
Got me thinking, One could maby cobble up a stroposcope similar to that used to check on old cars. (Rover, 😜. Lucas, the inventor ov electrical darkness.. 😂)
Anyway. One could also use it with a circular transparent angle scale. So to check correct amplitude visually.
Have been pondering about how to do a similar setup, for set the balance in beat. As my cheapo TG, only have presets. Eg, now way to check the actual frequense. Getting one of those old tools. Should be a better way, in todays world.
Or you might have a tip there too, Kalle?
Interesting thought, I know about a machine from Finland with uses the strobe effect, I saw it at Henrik Korpela's KHWCC in Le Locle. See if I can trace the details for you.
Have you tried the SLO-Mo video trick?
Use your Smartphone to take a slow motion video of the balance wheel. You can play it back In slow motion and easily see how far the balance is rotating.
We used that at wostep as well, great tip Jon!
Lift Angle Database:
bit.ly/3KuhFu5
Cheers Mike!
We love cheap!
en stroopwafels
What would be the life angle of a Power 80 movement? , thanks
trying to find the lift angle for orient f6724
How do I determine the Lift Angle of my watch movement?
The balance wheel is swinging 180° both ways, so why isn't that an amplitude of 360° since it's rotating in a full circle? Does that mean that at a higher amplitude like 270° that the balance wheel rotation is actually a full circle and a half - 540°?
I still don’t know what lift angle is 😊
So your telling me the amplitude is only 180 on that watch?
Only for calibration go to visual 180 degrees and set timegrapher to proper lift angle matching the 180, after that wind if full and see the real amplitude.
@@ChronoglideWatchmaking I see now. Make the amplitude 180 on the watch then make it 180 on the time grapher that gives you the lift angle. Very cool thanks for the help