Kawasaki Brute Force KEBC clutch fork removal how to
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 มิ.ย. 2015
- This video shows how to remove the KEBC clutch fork from a kawasaki brute force atv. This is the same procedure for 650 and 750cc models. This mod will give you more speed on take-off and increase the life of your drive belt and will give you more low end power to wheelie and impress your friends! Enjoy and as always thanks for watching ya'll!
If you liked this video and it helped you, please help me.
My Cash App Link: cash.me/$TheRealKevinReese
FOLLOW KEVIN REESE!
Instagram: / real_kevin_reese
Snapchat: / therealkreese
Twitter: / realkevinreese
Facebook: / kevin.moye.54
For Business:
Email- TheRealKevinReese@gmail.com
Please contact me via my Email for mailing address if you wish to send me packages or products!
Have an awesome day ya'll!
#KevinReese #NurseMoye #RepTown - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
I have a 2005 brute force 650 I’m going to do this thanks for the info just what I was looking for
No problem 👍
Thanks for this tutorial. Just got my '05 BF 750 and removed the KEBC fork after my 2WD/4WD light was flashing. With help from your video, I was able to remove the fork in about a half hour. She's got some good performance and will lift the front tires off the ground if I'm not careful! Thanks much!
Cheers,
Your Newest Sub
Hey did you ever fix the light flashing ?
Thanks for the sub and I am glad this helped you!
We may never know...
@@sheldonferguson6702 Sorry, I didn't see this comment. No, it didn't fix the flashing light. It's hit or miss on when it flashes. I do notice that when in 4WD, it doesn't flash at all and I haven't had time to look into it any further. Any ideas?
K Rees thanks for making this video! I have to remove mine for a certain clutch kit upgrade and now I understand how and why. Very informative and easy enough to understand even when your not a mechanic like me !!! Great Job !
Hey thanks for the feedback I am glad it helped you out.
Hey Reese, thanks for getting back to me. I have watched your vid on resetting the "check belt" light. Very informative. I've done it many times. Pain in the butt. What is actually happening on my machine is the 4x4 light is flashing (2seconds on & off) and is in limp mode.
I was hoping the removal of the fork would help me out with getting me up and running again. Tomorrow I'm looking to remove the fork and clean up the engine brake acquator. Cleaning up the front 4x4 acquator is a little more difficult without a shelter to work on it.
Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Cheers Gord
I am glad you found my other video and it has helped you. Please let me know how removing the fork helps. When you have your belt cover off, take a good look at that belt. If there are any cracks, replace it while you have the cover off. It is very easy to do. I would try disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes also, then hook it back up and try it. Does your 4x4 work when you flip the switch on?
Some one please answer these questions how come when i had my old belt on it never was squealing i put a new belt on and its squeals alot also before i put the new belt on my bike would stop by its self when let off throttle wit new belt on it just keeps rolling when let of throttle someone please help?!
Hey Reese. Good video. If I follow the steps and remove the fork.... will this prevent my machine from going into "limp mode" I have a 2005 Kawasaki kvf360. Thanks.
Limp mode is a different issue. Check out my other video on how to reset the belt light, that may resolve your problem. If not, comment back and let me know! Thanks for watching.
@@KReesethebeast Reese can this be applied to a 2005 Prairie 360 4x4??
Thankyou sir!
I'm glad you found this video helpful. Thanks for watching.
Would this procedure work the same for the 360 kawasaki model also?
+Alexis miles I imagine it would be similar but not the same. Sorry I have never worked on that model yet so I can not tell you for sure.
+K Reese Thank you sir! I understand
Asked for an up date on the torque removal up date on a different video. I had to do the arm collars,oil seals, needle bearings and ball joints.
Did one side, need to do the other. Should make a video. Not too bad. Did have to use a torch to get the needle bearings on the front arm.
Thanks to my daughter ,,, $35 a side
Love the 04 700. Just go threw belts. (Have to do the front breaks next) have ITP 589's mud snow 28"x9-12 front and 28"X11-12back.
Did also clean the jets on the carb. (Not bad)
Haven't spent one dollar on it in tell resent.
Do you really think the exhaust helped with power? Not that it really needs it😜
Thats great! I can not tell much of a difference with power from exhausts and jet kit, maybe a little, but the sound is amazing.
hey reese, put new starter in, took brake forks out, new belt.it started but i have that flywheel side just a banging away. 2k hours on this one. will let you know what i find on the other side. thanks again.
hey reese, i have it tore down and that large geer behind stater cover has about ten teeth missing. and cannot break the 7mm allens houlding the stator in, have to stop engine from turning. BUT how does that starter turning the geer that it meshes into work to bring that back gear into contact withy the geer that has missing teeth?? oh by the way do you know the name of this geer?- thanks have been watching some of your other videos. cool. bruce
Thanks for the support Bruce. It certainly sounds like you have somewhat of a major malfunction on your hands. I am curious as to what gear you are talking about that has teeth missing, and how they broke off. Are you talking about the starter and the flywheel? This could be due to someone pressing the starter button while the engine is running not knowing any better. Are you the original owner of this Brute?
Hey Bruce...do you have a manual for your quad?
The starter engages to a gear that the manual calls a torque limiter...
And the big gear on the backside of the alternator rotor is missing the teeth??
You are going to need a tool called a flywheel puller to remove the alternator rotor....there is one for sale on eBay right now...
Great video... I just removed my KEBC on my 650p ....What size Zilla's are those?
That's great man can you tell the difference in take off? I definitely can. Ah you noticed the zillas. haha. They are 26in. I only went 1in over stock- I wanted to stay as close to stock as possible but wanted a little extra lift. Check out my video review and install of them on my channel man, I take before and after ground clearance measurements and compare the zillas to the ol stock dunlops. Thanks for watching.
this is a question about start up, on a brute force 2005 650, " at start-up when i hit the start button the starterkicks in but it then locks up the engine, even the pull start is locked up also" my question is --is this the starter or something internal?? i have called a dealer and they thought it was gass locked in the cylinder, i told them i didn't think so. i thank you in advance for any help with this.
That is a v twin engine so you have 2 cylinders. If it was me, I would start by removing both spark plugs and see if the engine turns over. If it is gas locked, hydro locked, or whatever, this would help you find out. If the engine does not turn over with both plugs removed, then it sounds like it may be locked up. Have you checked the oil? Post back here and let me know what you find out. Please like and subscribe to my channel. I'll help you out as best I can. Take care.
K Reese
It sounds to me like possibly something broken between the starter and the flywheel....what have you found??
Hey, so by just removing the fork, I don't need that bypass harness and the 2×4/4×4 lights work correctly? As well as the quad acually going into 4×4?
No you do not need a bypass harness and the 4x4 will not be affected by removing only the fork as seen in this video. please like and subscribe.
Kevin Reese My 2wd/4wd light keeps flashing back-and-forth because my engine brake actuator is going out, how can I bypass
What is the wire connector on the bottom left side under KEBC? I just bought a 350 and that plug is not connected. My 4x4 light does not come on nor does in engage. I am beginning to think that may be the issue?
I'm not exactly sure.
i have an 07 650BF and i just bout it and has after market clutch for mud. and new out the box the guy told me one of the weights was a lil stiffer then the rest and it wont go past 25mph.what should i do?
If you do not have any experience with cvt systems I would take it to a pro. That is the problem with buying used modified stuff. Now a mechanic has to figure out what has been done to the clutch and try to get it back working properly for you.
So if I do this it won’t cause any further problems ?I got a Parari 700 vtwin
If it is what you want to do, I'd do your research to see if it is the right choice for your riding style.
I got a prairie 360 that flashes red 4wd light every second. It shifts in and out of 4wd but does not drive over 5mph or doesn’t shift into 2nd gear any help would be appreciated.
Has your belt light come on?
Je vais enlever ma fourchette , est ce que ya un interet si je laisse brancher le petit moteur ? Je dois le debrancher ou le laisser brancher? Dans quelle cas je dois bypass?
no habla espanol
Machine runs great in 2x4 or 4x4 for 5 to 20 minutes. Then the 4x4 led signals the 1 sec 1 sec flash (indicating KEBC fault) then jerking immediately whenever shifting into F/R and stalling out. I am getting a 0 ohm reading on my KEBC actuator motor (red to black leads). Will removing the fork fix this issue? Maybe you would have another idea?
Christian Anderson, did you ever figure out your issue? Also to anyone.. My 2005 360 prairie 4x4 light is flashing but 2x4 and 4x4 shift in and out fine on jack stands. anyone else see this issue?
Ever get it fixed?
My KVF 650 could not switch into neutral, the KEBC didn't make any noise anymore and I also had the 2wd/4wd flashing. Now I have removed the fork of the KEBC as you explained in this video and the issue with the shifting is solved. But the 2wd/4wd is still flashing and the actuator doesn't make any noise. Do you know how to fix the flashing?
So, mine did that before with the flashing, since I removed the fork, it has not done it. It would do that flashing after you had been riding a while on a long ride and I was not even using the four wheel drive. I would park and let it sit then start it again and it had gone away. I do not have a fix other than maybe try disconnecting the negative from the battery for 10 minutes and turn the headlights on to drain all the residual power if there is any. I would try that if it was me.
@@KReesethebeast Ok thanks for the answer. Maybe I'll try that or just leave it as it is. Because now obviously the whole actuator doesn't work and doesn't make any noises, which is actually not bad because I removed the fork anyway. The actuator does not damage anything in any way if it is obviously completely off and the fork is removed, right? I can live with the flashing if everything works just fine.
I just removed it and took a ride and my 750 brute will do something weird i will be going about 50 and then it will do a thing where it slows down and won’t let me go fast it will act like it’s in neutral I did exactly what you did but it’s doing that and I don’t know what’s going on please help!
Sounds like it is in limp mode somehow. Is your belt light on? If if is, I have a video on how to reset your belt light.
K REESE DO YOU HAVE THE MANUAL FOR IT? FOR THE ATV>?
Yes I have the manual.
Kevin,, how come mine still slows quickly when I let off the throttle?? i can tell the brake isnt engaging when i take off.. but when let off of her she still slows quickly
Are your brakes hanging up?
Would it make sense for that KEBC to be called “belt actuator? And if so ok i ordered the right part but would it make sense to have to tap that belt actuator to make the bike turnover?
Did it not make noise when you turn the key on and off? All the motor does is work as the belt brake.
@@KReesethebeast yeah all that normal i finally diagnosed a bad starter. But now im just banging it with a hammer cause no great stsarter replacement videos.... u got one? 😂
with the fork removed, will the engine still hold me back without having to brake when going downhill
+Timmy Rhoades This is tricky. As soon as you start to descend, blip the throttle slightly and then let off. This will engage the clutch and slow the engine down and you will creep down the hill as if you have engine braking. You could try it on some small hills until you get the hang of it. Thanks for watching and be safe.
I did this on all 3 prairies we have. Taking the fork off works great. Just one problem. I accidentally turned the key on and it happened on one that we got from facebook marketplace with all this wierd wiring. For some reason the grey connector has ben cut and a wire is plugged into all the connectors on that plug. All the belt light reset videos aren't working. I am so pissed about it. It won't let me go over 5 mph and huts rev limiter at that speed
Trying to fix weird wiring is a nightmare I wish you the best of luck!
@KReesethebeast Thanks, I can't believe how such a stupid mistake caused such an annoying issue.
Update I was able to fix it. After trying all the reset videos on youtube one of them actually worked
What's the name of the plug below the cover of the primary clutch cover at the back left side
Not sure, could be a drain plug?
Is this the same model as the 650 prairie?
Don't know if they are exactly the same but they are very similar.
I removed mine and the brake motor wont shut off when the key is in the off position. Any idea why?
If you follow the steps in the video you should not have any problems. Maybe your brake motor is bad, in which case it does not matter anyway.
Does it really cause premature wear on belt and clutches
In theory yes, because it puts reverse pressure and stress on the belt to slow the atv on a decent, and when coming to a stop.
first, thanks for answering back.
to start with i do not believe a gas lock is an issue, i have one 2005 in the barn that i was getting ready to tear down, and then yesterday it happened to my other 2005 so decided to check on line. so yesterday got on the atv put choke on turned key on, hit starter button and did not start, nothing new, hit it again starter threw forward to engage ande froze there, reach down to check pull starter and it was locked to, put it in gear rocked back and forth got back on hit starter button same thing, hit it again and then it started up. the other one started like that also untill it finnally got to the point that i parked it took off sprayer and put it on other atv. they are strickly farm workers. but yesterday i thought mayby it is the starter locking in place but a while ago i thought that mayby flywheel side??? also have been having trouble posting, 3ed time.. thanks again--bruce
I think I would start by checking your starter motor and solenoid. How many hours are on this atv? It sounds like the starter solenoid is hung up and will not let the engine turn over.
i agree, i do believe in starting with the most obvious first. and will be taking the the fork out also will solve my problem when spraying for weeds. will let you know what happens- thanks again from sc.
What will happen if you remove that fork I took mine out and my belt light started flashing and I could not go over around 7 miles an hour just hitting the rev limiter
You did something wrong
@@KReesethebeast Yes I realized I flicked the switch inside of the clutch case to off which put it in limp mode but thank you for your video it helped me I just made a Mistake but got it figured out
Would it roll before you removed the fork?
No, on a steep descent, the atv would barely roll down a hill and the KEBC would be applying pressure to the belt. Now, if you give the bike some throttle, just a quick blip, it still performs very similar because the drive pulley is engaged and the bike will still roll down a hill slowly. However, if you do not blip the throttle upon descent, the atv will free wheel down the hill. I love the immediate take off speed I have now without waiting for rpm's to climb before forward motion begins. I wish I would have removed it sooner.
K REESE i need your help bro
What is wrong my dude
Bonjour jai pareil sauf que l'actuator continue de tourner très très très longtemps après avoir éteint le quad
English por favor
Oye una pregunta porq se calentara mucho mi raptor 700 2007 te agradeseria
English please.
Es normal
Limpia tu radiador con agua a presión
If a remove the fork , can i still using the 4x4??
Yes 4x4 will still work fine.
hey mines not getting any spark any idea
Make sure battery is good first. then check to make sure you have power to spark plugs. Then check and change plugs if needed. Next would be check timing.
My clutch isn’t engaging on my 2008 brute force 750
What is it doing?
I just removed it and took a ride and my 750 brute will do something weird i will be going about 50 and then it will do a thing where it slows down and won’t let me go fast it will act like it’s in neutral I did exactly what you did but it’s doing that and I don’t know what’s going on please help!
Man this sounds good but that actuator sound, isnt it little to loud?
Yes it is noisy, but it does not do any harm to anything. There is a kit that eliminates all of it, but it is close to $100. For me, I'll listen to the actuator .
@@KReesethebeast i mostly ride trails , and i like a little freewheelie cuz i have to be on the throttle all the time, will this help. And will the low range still be as its power for downhills
@@dinimuaremi9481 Yes you will be able to wheelie it easier because you do not have to wait for that brake to disengage. When going down a hill all you have to do is blip the throttle real fast and it will engage the clutch and it will descend slow.
I think removing the fork will also improve fuel economy ?
@@dinimuaremi9481 Yes it can because there is no longer that tension on that belt.
isnt that to loud actuator than normal or ?
Without the fork in place it may be louder than normal, but it is not causing harm to anything.
@@KReesethebeast to much louder or?
@@gerceci1 No it is not much louder. It is quieter going downhills too because the actuator is not constantly putting pressure on the belt. To go downhills all you do is blip the throttle real fast and it will engage the clutch and it will descend slow. That or either just use your brakes.
My brute force wants to roll in forward and and reverse on its own. Doesn’t want to go back into neutral
Make sure your linkage is ok, if it is, you may have an internal problem my friend.
Could be idling too high
My 2011 prairie 360 is doing the same thing every once in a while. I'm gonna remove the fork