My exact same one blew while I was doing my dyno test on my channel too. I went a different way and actually had them repair and upgrade it though. Great video bro.
I don't think that's because it's a full bridge design. That just might be a coincidence. From what I've seen, amp dyno's using resistive loads and sine waves are hard on all amp designs (since that's not what they were designed to do). The ones that seem to pop or catch fire are the super cheap, poorly designed amps, using low quality components and being asked to produce more power than it can handle. (Cough, cough, taramps) Other full bridge amps from Alpine, Kicker, JL Audio, etc... seem to do just fine. 😉 (Those pesky Brazilian amps are giving full bridge a bad reputation) 😂
@@JasonWW2000I agree that the Brazilian and Taramps seem to pop alil easier but in all fairness they do put out some of the best watts per dollar. Not to mention the smart series that I've seen clamp 1-3k over rated power.
Another viewer has pointed out that this particular amp and the lower power versions of the Mini Maxx are all half bridge. Only the 1500w model is full bridge. 👍
Glad they sent a replacement, i been waiting to see how it did. Very odd with the the signal but im sure it would be fine for long time as long as its not being pushed into hard clip. My guess was 1500 so pretty close on the meter, dynamically (on subs) im sure it does 1500.
Great 2 part video!! I run my Mid-Bass 10's in my doors from 65Hz to 250Hz and planned on getting a couple of these Amps for power.. This video was really helpful!! Thank You!! SUBSCRIBED!!
Can't say for sure, but the amp that went belly-up, the part(s) that failed were likely the output FETS. (field-effect transistors) They are the 3-legged silicon components clamped to the chassis.
Great little amp! Jp's doing the right thing by us to the best of his ability for sure! Fuck what Robot says! I like listening to robot too tho just to hear him insult absolutely everyone who isn't him..... if you want a woofer built well for half the money it's robot all the way & I'm glad there's someone trying to help the noobs who are to young to have the Dinero yet to acquire good equipment, but I also appreciate what JP'S doing cause him & big jeff have definitely made a hard effort to bring good effective car audio to the masses for a reasonable price. Should they get rich off it? You're godamn right they should see the rewards of their hard work!
The "clip" light on amps are really distortion detectors. Clipping is only one of many different types of distortion. On most amps the clip light will start to flicker before the distortion gets to 1%. Then at about 1% it will go solid. You won't hear 1% on a subwoofer which is why most people allow for 10% when setting gains. It should be fine to run the sub just as the clip light goes solid. One or two more notches on the volume knob may be risky as the distortion climbs higher and higher - especially on this amp. I don't think I would run a Mini Maxx to the point the clip light came on, especially when wired to a low ohm load. It delivers good power well before the clip light even flickers. Don't let it flicker, if it does, drop the volume a notch. 👍
I would be curious to see, while you had this amp on the o-scope, if that weird looking wave form, would go away, if you slowly started to turn down the LPF, from 250Hz, till Hz? To see @ what freq. It was smooth, or if it did not change. This would rule out the poss. Of a weird high freq. modulation, that might have been going on.
Hey, I ended up doing the test that you recommended today. I made it part of something else that I was doing. It was all on video. I may do a mid-week upload, so stay tuned for that. Thanks for the idea!
@@stereomojoHeck yeah, can't wait to see it! Hey, did you get a chance yet to look @ my response on what car i had that system in? ✔️ it out on your punch 100 video, i gave a lot of details on that car, and complete system, let me know what you think, please.
I noticed at 4 ohms the clip light came on before the distortion light. At 2 ohms they came on about the same time. At 1 ohm the distortion light came on before the clip light. Interesting. (For anyone wondering why the DD-1 distortion light flickers as the power climbs, it's due to it internally switching relays as it moves to a higher power range. If it turns on briefly and goes out, just ignore it.)
@@whittaker727In the video of the one ohm test the left meter came on about 1160 watts. The right meter came on about 1300 watts. Its a bit of a toss up as to which light to use. Honestly it's a bit confusing.
Thanks Anthony! Yeah, I’m trying to think of a time that a low pass filter started lower than 80hz…hmmm. I don’t recon I can think of one. They usually start at 80hz and higher for the LPH.
I wonder if they set up the clipping light to start warning the overzealous basshead early enough to notice and safely move the knob back into a safe position. If I was in this business and my amp designer told me that was an option I'd have to strongly consider doing it. Because getting a basshead to turn down the subs is like yeah right dude. lol!
Look I got the money for a kicker 1200 watt amp to run a 1 12in kicker Q class “the round one “ but I seen this amp and was like it’s cheaper I am really going for sound quality should I go with this amp or should I just go with the kicker 1200 watt amp. Keep in mind I am will to pay more for the kicker and but if I can save some money by getting this amp I would like to but I don’t wanna lose sound quality what are your thoughts on what I should do
That sine wave with the noise on the peaks looks like high frequency noise. Definitely not clipping. When you zoomed in at 15:01 you can see the small waves inside the main wave. That kind of high frequency noise shouldn't be audible. Class D output signals are made up of tiny on/off pulses (PWM) that then gets filtered to smooth it out. I'm no Barevids, but it looks like whatever is supposed to be filtering has reached its limits and high frequency noise is getting through. Could you hear any distortion? It's possible the amp "clip" light is detecting it and reporting it while the DD-1 is ignoring it. If I remember correctly, Tony designed the DD-1 to look at third order harmonics in order to determined 1% distortion. That might be the more reliable method.
disculpa veo que conoces mucho del tema , me pregunta es la siguiente aque se debe el ruido de alta frecuencia o ruido eléctrico, por que los amplificadores brasileño , la onda senoidal es imperfecta se mira orible en el osciloscopio aunque y eso no se ve en el dd1 , tal me ayuda con mi duda
@@rafagomezz7750 Class D amplifiers operate at high frequencies as part of the design. The output should be smooth so you don't see the high frequencies. Why it can come out as "not smooth" I don't know. We would need a very experienced amplifier repairer or amp designer to guess why. Kicker recently tested a Taramps amplifier using their Audio Precision tester. It is a very expensive tester ($40,000-$50,000). Joe, an amplifier expert for Kicker, showed they have poor designs and push the components too hard. Noise and distortion was quite high. They use tricks to make it look good on an amplifier dyno. I can not say other Brazilian brands are the same, but maybe. This 1,000w D4S Minimaxx is not a Brazilian style, as far as I know. The small distortion we see at the top and bottom of the sinewave may not be a problem. We may not hear it at all. It just looks strange on the oscilloscope. If I find out more information I will post it here.
I don’t believe that’s an accurate statement. @DAmoreEngineering could you take a look at this video and give us some feedback about what’s going on here?
@@charleswilliams2556 hey, that’s awesome! Yes, I’m in North Alabama. Pensacola is about 6 hours away. Shoot me an email to stereomojo@yahoo.com and we’ll see if we can save you some money
I really hope someone does a 2ohm test and 1 ohm test of the jp234 hope it does more than this cause I really don't Wana buy another amp just got the jp234 lol ugh
The voltage on the test bench is much more accurate. I didn’t adjust the voltage on the bass knob at all. It comes with a screwdriver to adjust it, but I never messed with it.
@@littleblacksonoma I see what you’re saying. I never noticed that. I’ll do some more testing. We’ve got one of those SMD voltage meters that can test really fast. Thanks
@@johnwiechel in your situation, if all the positives are connected and all the negatives are connected, you’ll be at 1 ohm. You can connect them all together a few different ways, but the most common is to run a short piece of speaker wire from one coil around to the other coil (one sub). Then run a speaker wire from that coil to the amp (positive and negative both. Do the same thing for the other sub. Does that make sense?
![Are You Down for Some Low Ohm Amp Dyno Tests? Down4Sound JP23 Amp Test Part 2 [4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/v7nohX0C3gg/mqdefault.jpg)
D4s has always treated me above & beyond with their customer service.
My exact same one blew while I was doing my dyno test on my channel too. I went a different way and actually had them repair and upgrade it though. Great video bro.
Yeah, I saw that. Pretty crazy! Thanks!
Good to see 😊
Love the channel!! D4S has been killing it lately. Good stuff
Thanks a bunch! We like the D4S stuff quite a bit.
The loose rca amp was mine on a MM 100x4 with the small plug adapter to rca. I opted for a brand new amp and it works fine now 💯🔥🔥🔥
Lol, that’s cool
Tighten your nuts boy 😂
Great video. Yeah these test seem to be rough on full bridge amps. I run a jp23 1.5 on one 15 and I love it.
I don't think that's because it's a full bridge design. That just might be a coincidence.
From what I've seen, amp dyno's using resistive loads and sine waves are hard on all amp designs (since that's not what they were designed to do). The ones that seem to pop or catch fire are the super cheap, poorly designed amps, using low quality components and being asked to produce more power than it can handle. (Cough, cough, taramps)
Other full bridge amps from Alpine, Kicker, JL Audio, etc... seem to do just fine. 😉
(Those pesky Brazilian amps are giving full bridge a bad reputation) 😂
@@JasonWW2000I agree that the Brazilian and Taramps seem to pop alil easier but in all fairness they do put out some of the best watts per dollar. Not to mention the smart series that I've seen clamp 1-3k over rated power.
Another viewer has pointed out that this particular amp and the lower power versions of the Mini Maxx are all half bridge. Only the 1500w model is full bridge. 👍
Glad they sent a replacement, i been waiting to see how it did.
Very odd with the the signal but im sure it would be fine for long time as long as its not being pushed into hard clip.
My guess was 1500 so pretty close on the meter, dynamically (on subs) im sure it does 1500.
It did over 2k dynamic, on the skar subs he played music through, @ the end of this video!
Great 2 part video!! I run my Mid-Bass 10's in my doors from 65Hz to 250Hz and planned on getting a couple of these Amps for power.. This video was really helpful!! Thank You!! SUBSCRIBED!!
That’s awesome! Thanks Grimm!
Im glad they sent you a good amp, i wanted to buy the 4 channel version of the mini maxx but theres not many reviews on it.
Thanks, I’m glad they did too! With a little more time, you’ll probably have plenty of reviews to check out on the 4ch.
Mine works good!!!
@@MarkJohnston-if5eo good deal!
@@MarkJohnston-if5eo what you got it paired up to.
Can't say for sure, but the amp that went belly-up, the part(s) that failed were likely the output FETS.
(field-effect transistors) They are the 3-legged silicon components clamped to the chassis.
Great little amp! Jp's doing the right thing by us to the best of his ability for sure! Fuck what Robot says! I like listening to robot too tho just to hear him insult absolutely everyone who isn't him..... if you want a woofer built well for half the money it's robot all the way & I'm glad there's someone trying to help the noobs who are to young to have the Dinero yet to acquire good equipment, but I also appreciate what JP'S doing cause him & big jeff have definitely made a hard effort to bring good effective car audio to the masses for a reasonable price. Should they get rich off it? You're godamn right they should see the rewards of their hard work!
The "clip" light on amps are really distortion detectors. Clipping is only one of many different types of distortion.
On most amps the clip light will start to flicker before the distortion gets to 1%. Then at about 1% it will go solid.
You won't hear 1% on a subwoofer which is why most people allow for 10% when setting gains. It should be fine to run the sub just as the clip light goes solid. One or two more notches on the volume knob may be risky as the distortion climbs higher and higher - especially on this amp. I don't think I would run a Mini Maxx to the point the clip light came on, especially when wired to a low ohm load. It delivers good power well before the clip light even flickers. Don't let it flicker, if it does, drop the volume a notch. 👍
I agree it should last long time unless pushed into clipping regularly.
I would be curious to see, while you had this amp on the o-scope, if that weird looking wave form, would go away, if you slowly started to turn down the LPF, from 250Hz, till Hz? To see @ what freq. It was smooth, or if it did not change. This would rule out the poss. Of a weird high freq. modulation, that might have been going on.
Yeah, that would be interesting to see. I still have the amp. I might try that.
Hey, I ended up doing the test that you recommended today. I made it part of something else that I was doing. It was all on video. I may do a mid-week upload, so stay tuned for that. Thanks for the idea!
@@stereomojoHeck yeah, can't wait to see it! Hey, did you get a chance yet to look @ my response on what car i had that system in? ✔️ it out on your punch 100 video, i gave a lot of details on that car, and complete system, let me know what you think, please.
@@evilinside5984 not yet, but I will. Thanks!
👍👀👍
crusando los dedos para que todo saliera bien, genial tu video sigue asi gracia por tomarte el tiempo para mostrar el contenido
Yeah there's too many weird things about this amplifier I was going to grab one but now I'm thinking better of it
@@d77543020 thanks Don! Yeah, I tell you though, the other D4S amps are real solid! That JP8 is one of my favorites!
I noticed at 4 ohms the clip light came on before the distortion light.
At 2 ohms they came on about the same time.
At 1 ohm the distortion light came on before the clip light.
Interesting.
(For anyone wondering why the DD-1 distortion light flickers as the power climbs, it's due to it internally switching relays as it moves to a higher power range. If it turns on briefly and goes out, just ignore it.)
So did you see a bigger number at one ohm on your test?
@@whittaker727I think there's some confusion. I did not test anything. My comment was referring to the tests done in the video.
@@whittaker727In the video of the one ohm test the left meter came on about 1160 watts. The right meter came on about 1300 watts.
Its a bit of a toss up as to which light to use. Honestly it's a bit confusing.
It don’t matter how many times they have to do it, replace it any company should at least if it’s there issue not yours.
A big part of me wanted to do another full test.
Does the manual say whether the RCA outputs are filtered, or are they just a passthrough of the inputs? Haven't seen anyone provide this info. Thanks!
I stumbled onto your channel a few hours ago. I'm addicted! Thank you (for your content)! And is anything over 80hz considered low-pass? 😅
Thanks Anthony! Yeah, I’m trying to think of a time that a low pass filter started lower than 80hz…hmmm. I don’t recon I can think of one. They usually start at 80hz and higher for the LPH.
I wonder if they set up the clipping light to start warning the overzealous basshead early enough to notice and safely move the knob back into a safe position. If I was in this business and my amp designer told me that was an option I'd have to strongly consider doing it. Because getting a basshead to turn down the subs is like yeah right dude. lol!
You’re probably on to something there. Lol
does this come with the knob remote cable? or do i have to buy it seperately
Look I got the money for a kicker 1200 watt amp to run a 1 12in kicker Q class “the round one “ but I seen this amp and was like it’s cheaper I am really going for sound quality should I go with this amp or should I just go with the kicker 1200 watt amp. Keep in mind I am will to pay more for the kicker and but if I can save some money by getting this amp I would like to but I don’t wanna lose sound quality what are your thoughts on what I should do
I’d get the Kicker
Or a jp8 or jp13
@@stereomojo 10/4
What size fuse do they rec.? 100/125? Ty👍🏼
100a for this model
That sine wave with the noise on the peaks looks like high frequency noise. Definitely not clipping. When you zoomed in at 15:01 you can see the small waves inside the main wave. That kind of high frequency noise shouldn't be audible. Class D output signals are made up of tiny on/off pulses (PWM) that then gets filtered to smooth it out. I'm no Barevids, but it looks like whatever is supposed to be filtering has reached its limits and high frequency noise is getting through.
Could you hear any distortion?
It's possible the amp "clip" light is detecting it and reporting it while the DD-1 is ignoring it.
If I remember correctly, Tony designed the DD-1 to look at third order harmonics in order to determined 1% distortion. That might be the more reliable method.
disculpa veo que conoces mucho del tema , me pregunta es la siguiente aque se debe el ruido de alta frecuencia o ruido eléctrico, por que los amplificadores brasileño , la onda senoidal es imperfecta se mira orible en el osciloscopio aunque y eso no se ve en el dd1 , tal me ayuda con mi duda
@@rafagomezz7750 Class D amplifiers operate at high frequencies as part of the design. The output should be smooth so you don't see the high frequencies.
Why it can come out as "not smooth" I don't know. We would need a very experienced amplifier repairer or amp designer to guess why.
Kicker recently tested a Taramps amplifier using their Audio Precision tester. It is a very expensive tester ($40,000-$50,000). Joe, an amplifier expert for Kicker, showed they have poor designs and push the components too hard. Noise and distortion was quite high. They use tricks to make it look good on an amplifier dyno.
I can not say other Brazilian brands are the same, but maybe.
This 1,000w D4S Minimaxx is not a Brazilian style, as far as I know. The small distortion we see at the top and bottom of the sinewave may not be a problem. We may not hear it at all. It just looks strange on the oscilloscope.
If I find out more information I will post it here.
Great content! Just subscribed. Would you recommend these amps?
Thanks a bunch! Yes, just keep the clip light off and you’ll love it.
Thanks!
Keep up the great content!
I want to see dyno on the D4s MM100.2
Put some spacing between your amp and what your mounting to needs air flow.
the d4s amplifier has a better distortion detector than the smd dd1
I don’t believe that’s an accurate statement. @DAmoreEngineering could you take a look at this video and give us some feedback about what’s going on here?
Hey buddy I’m gonna buy one of your amp how far are you from Pensacola I hear you say your in north Alabama
@@charleswilliams2556 hey, that’s awesome! Yes, I’m in North Alabama. Pensacola is about 6 hours away. Shoot me an email to stereomojo@yahoo.com and we’ll see if we can save you some money
I really hope someone does a 2ohm test and 1 ohm test of the jp234 hope it does more than this cause I really don't Wana buy another amp just got the jp234 lol ugh
Looks like the voltage didnt match between the bass knob and your display. At 1 ohm, the knob was showing 13.5 or 13.6.
The voltage on the test bench is much more accurate. I didn’t adjust the voltage on the bass knob at all. It comes with a screwdriver to adjust it, but I never messed with it.
@stereomojo I mean during the test. They both started out the same at 14.8. They just dropped differently.
@@littleblacksonoma I see what you’re saying. I never noticed that. I’ll do some more testing. We’ve got one of those SMD voltage meters that can test really fast. Thanks
None of them list the basic crossover db/oct why what’s the big secret
Kind of new, how do I wire 2 10s, dual 4 ohm to this amp at 1 ohm?
@@johnwiechel in your situation, if all the positives are connected and all the negatives are connected, you’ll be at 1 ohm. You can connect them all together a few different ways, but the most common is to run a short piece of speaker wire from one coil around to the other coil (one sub). Then run a speaker wire from that coil to the amp (positive and negative both. Do the same thing for the other sub. Does that make sense?
@stereomojo yup sure does, I got this little maxx being delivered tomorrow, for some sundown e 10s. Hope it does decent for em
@@stereomojo so ur saying wire them in series parallel and then to the amp correct.
@@johnwiechel cool! Which sundowns are you getting?
@@stereomojo sorry sundown e series v4
Are you ever gonna start the test, or just talk my head off?
The 1500 is full bridge the 1000 is Chinese
I think you meant to say the 1500w version is a full bridge topology and all the smaller ones are half bridge.
I left after the first 3 minutes of dead horse beatings.
Thanks for those 3 minutes Pete. Thanks for the comment too. Everything helps!
Don't understand the philosophy behind wanting eight gauge speaker terminals when you're only dealing with 30 amps!! . .
Me either. What a weirdo!
Easier to fii multiple 14/16 gauge wire
You can't run old technology on new technology of course it's going to make the amp have problem 😅😅😅😅😅🎉🎉
Goofy comment #3