Great video as always; allowing the product to represent itself, no matter the rating propaganda on the box or book. Its not a 5k amp, but for the price point, its not so bad, and hopefully it won't let the smoke out of the alternator and or computer. These amps nowadays, if they won't accept awg 4 wire, it's really hard to expect huge watt numbers out of them. Thanks; great video and 73 GOD bless Earnest K5EWM.
About Lanzar - (this is from my experience before they sold out) In the 1990s (around here Georgetown SC) I seen mostly the Vibe series 0.5 ohm stable amps at sound offs & Lowrider shows. I remember one kid had 1x 18" Lanzar sub and amp in the hatchback Ford Probe. The Probe had a pretty big back glass. But that was the first time I had ever seen a car windshield "breath" like a human lung 🤣. This was 30 years ago. And the amp he had was as long as the car was wide 😂. For the 90s, that was some serious sound. The guy actually took first place in his class.
First Lanzar sub I ever seen and heard was 12 in my uncle had in his pick up. I was staying at my aunts house for the summer and they would let me drive the pick up down the dirt road to throw out the trash and it had a Merlin audio amp with a 12 in lanzar . I would look forward to that ride and then one day I cooked the sub probably from turning up the volume to loud but it was fun while it lasted
@StereoMojo- Im commenting after only watching this video till the 2:51 mark. I don't know anything about this amp, cost, or actual power. This amp would only have a shot @ 5k dynamic, if it needs 400 amps of fusing, & cost $500+. That being said, without knowing the fuse rating, or price, my guess= 1,250 watts R.M.S. @ 1 ohm to clipping. Ps. Im @ 13:51 into video now, i see that this amp did 1,340 to clipping. I wasn't too far off. Now if this china built amp cost between $119.99, & $149.99= not a bad deal.
I have to agree 110%. I have not long ago gotten back into car audio. In the 80s & 90s I was heavy into the Lowrider lifestyle (with my best being 1985 Buick Regal w/ 4x pumps -16 switches all Red's Hydraulics. 8" cylinders on the front - 12" on the rear. Powered with 10x deep cell marine batteries). Anyway (sorry. I get caught up sometimes lol) Fuses, @StereoMojo mentioned one time that was a good sign & way to kinda give you a ballpoint figure on what an amp is really going to do (I never thought about this until I joined the channel)... The Cobalt I purchased in 2015 3200 watts 6400.1D mono - has 4x or 5x 40 amp fuses... When people kick MY Cobalt I mention the year model and the # of fuses and that stops the replies lol.
I had never heard of this brand. Looks good and good power for the price. But I'm tired of these companies way over exaggerating the power ratings and then putting it all over the amp.
They have been out for yrs, I remember seeing their amps 20 yrs ago. I use to have a 3k quantum audio and it produced a lot of power for what it was. I was impressed to be honest, I bought it from a pawnshop for 60 or 70 bucks which was definitely worth it
I dont know what flea markets or local retailers that guy went to, but I have never ever heard of this brand. Must be because of their boss like offerings. LOL.
Awesome video man! Could you possibly try the Z12000D Class D Monoblock 1-Channel 2000 Watts Amplifier from Bass Rockers. Wonder if it does its power for $125?
I wish there was a way to rate sub amps by the sound character. Some have a soft, mellow sounding bass and some are very punchy and dynamic. (that's what I prefer) Then there's everything in between. No one really seems to talk about this. I dont know if it's a matter of them not hearing a difference or if they just don't care. 🤔
Price on Amazon just said $169 if im looking at the same one. Just bought a jp13 from d4s that was on sale, $199 out the door. 2k on a dyno, plus badass bass knob.
I've never heard of this brand. With its results, it must be owned by the owner of BOSS Audios brothers, cousins, uncles, sister's daddys cousin, twice removed. 😂😂😂. I'm sorry, but it looks like one of those cheap Wal-Mart amps to me.
(I apologize for blowing the comments up) In my Accord, it has to be the electric load indicator that's causing all the problems. Because I bumped up the bass knob the other day and when I'm putting the juice to the subs.. she goes to misfiring something awful. And my RPM tac is acting crazy as hell. The alternator is putting out 13.8 - 14 & not dropping at any point..... I'm going to change the oil this week and I'll take a look at that every point of ground in the electrical system and all... Maybe something just needs some TLC. (Dang if I'm not running low on TLC with the car😅)
The power and grounds on the Accord are roughly 10 gauge wire, with the passenger side body to engine ground being an uninsulated braid strap. Doesn't matter what your alternator is showing for output, it all gets bottlenecked in the wiring. The tach signal dropping out is a sure sign the ECM is suffering from low voltage and the misfires are most likely from low fuel pump output and/or loss of ignition coil output. Upgrade your wiring is the moral of the story.
@@DustmanDiagnostics man, I'm so appreciative for the info! I have been trying to figure this car out for years! I had the parts store put the scanner on it way back.... It would show a misfire and it showed an ECM fault but nothing pacific. I have changed coil packs 3 times and plugs twice. Still nothing changed. I changed the fuel regulator... no change. Everyone I've talked to has been lost. They all tell me to get a new ECM and I just can't afford it.... It shifts odd too. You can ease the throttle down and sometimes it'll go into passing gear but never at the right RPM. And when you ease the throttle down it feels like it's straining to speed up.... Feels kinda like if you're holding the brakes and slowly getting off them while accelerating... When it reaches about 60 mph it turns loose. Anyway, I sure do appreciate you letting me know about the wiring. I'm assuming I can pull up the wiring diagram online? What size should I upgrade to?
@@barnes29510 On older Hondas (2000-2012) I would upgrade to 4 gauge at the minimum if doing any audio system upgrades. The before mentioned ground strap that is located on the passenger fender under the power steering reservoir and is bolted to the passenger engine mount. The battery negative to body ground is a very short run bolted to the driver's fender from the battery. The alternator to battery cable with a 2.4 Liter engine runs under the intake manifold and is held in place with a few tie clips. The 3.0 Liter engines have the alternator wire running along the bank 2 (radiator side) valve cover. Newer Accords and Civics have the power cables running along the back of the engine under the exhaust manifold and are larger gauge wire. As far as this being the culprit for your misfires I wouldn't be able to verify anything for certain without running a full diagnostic and knowing at the very least what year model your Accord is. Hondas are very picky about the type of ignition coils and spark plugs that are used. The typical over the counter parts store coils are not very reliable, so I only install OEM Honda or Denso units along with NGK plugs. Also one commonly overlooked reason for misfires and lack of power is valve adjustment. Honda is one of the only ones left who still have adjustable valves. I would honestly start with a cylinder compression test and verify they are all within specifications before chasing any misfires. Seeing as how your particular Accord misfires and loses tach signal when turning up the bass knob, it really would make sense that the PCM power or ground signal was dropping out or dipping very low during the event. Not to be taken as gospel, but a good place to start. Good luck to you brother.
I can't believe you never of this brand. It's sold in all the flea markets and local audio retailers. This is also the gear that beginners buy and end up turning the gain all the way up because it's not bumping enough for em. But this amplifier would be perfect "not price wise though" for two entry-level 15's in the right box. I would probably spend a little extra on a XS Power lithium for that amplifier. Just my opinion.
I was talking with a guy at a custom audio shop the other day about your channel here. We was talking about how dyno'n amps nowadays is almost a must if you're on a budget. But he said there was a video where this guy was checking a 5k amp and it dyno'n in at 18,000 watts! I haven't taken the time to try and find that particular video yet but I'm going to lol.
Yeah.....no At that price I would HAVE to get the Welsh Audio WA-2K Amplifier, Class D, Mono! If y'all haven't had the chance to check this amp out?! Ya really need to! Because it's a freaking BEAST! One last thing about this Quantum... You asked about our likes and dislikes - it looks like my 2nd dislike is not having a fuse. I didn't see any in or outside. So, that's just not good at all... Even back in the day, some amps had inline fuses on the output speaker wires. And ofc the 1st dislike is false advertisement. Common knowledge tells you you're not going to get 5,000 watts for under $500 or so. But still it's the principal of it all. Okay my man, I'm going to get some work done today. Thanks again for checking this out for me and everyone else! OH, Newegg has this same amp priced at...get this... $301.56! Now that's the type of bs that pisses me off.... I picture someone saving money for this and it's not worth it! KEEP'EM COMING BROTHER!! 🫵🏻🫵🏻💪🏻🤙🏻👑🇺🇸
Quantum! I'm glad I waited on your review. I've had this amp in & out the eBay cart 3 different items the past two weeks 😅. I haven't watched it yet (I had to post a comment first 😂). Thanks for looking into this amp. After I mentioned it to you some time ago I did a little research. Quantum has actually been in business for a while... I'm not sure if they have sold out to other companies (like Lanzar, etc). I have noticed that's when a product either continues to be quality or it falls face first in the dirt. But anyhow, thanks again for a great upload! 🫵🏻💪🏻🇺🇸🪳👑 Btw, the price wasn't too bad on this amp. When I saw that, I knew you would probably be interested in doing the review.
Hey buddy of mine used to be a dealer for quantum audio it's DB drive budget brand
And so is hypnotic both great brand
Great video as always; allowing the product to represent itself, no matter the rating propaganda on the box or book.
Its not a 5k amp, but for the price point, its not so bad, and hopefully it won't let the smoke out of the alternator and or computer. These amps nowadays, if they won't accept awg 4 wire, it's really hard to expect huge watt numbers out of them. Thanks; great video and 73 GOD bless Earnest K5EWM.
@@earnestmatlock9694 yes, I agree! Thanks Earnest!
About Lanzar - (this is from my experience before they sold out) In the 1990s (around here Georgetown SC) I seen mostly the Vibe series 0.5 ohm stable amps at sound offs & Lowrider shows. I remember one kid had 1x 18" Lanzar sub and amp in the hatchback Ford Probe. The Probe had a pretty big back glass. But that was the first time I had ever seen a car windshield "breath" like a human lung 🤣. This was 30 years ago. And the amp he had was as long as the car was wide 😂. For the 90s, that was some serious sound. The guy actually took first place in his class.
First Lanzar sub I ever seen and heard was 12 in my uncle had in his pick up. I was staying at my aunts house for the summer and they would let me drive the pick up down the dirt road to throw out the trash and it had a Merlin audio amp with a 12 in lanzar . I would look forward to that ride and then one day I cooked the sub probably from turning up the volume to loud but it was fun while it lasted
I had a 15” Lanzar sub and a Lanzar 250 watt amp back in 1996? Quality back then even with a 250 watt amp. Made my heart skip when it hit.
@StereoMojo- Im commenting after only watching this video till the 2:51 mark. I don't know anything about this amp, cost, or actual power. This amp would only have a shot @ 5k dynamic, if it needs 400 amps of fusing, & cost $500+. That being said, without knowing the fuse rating, or price, my guess= 1,250 watts R.M.S. @ 1 ohm to clipping. Ps. Im @ 13:51 into video now, i see that this amp did 1,340 to clipping. I wasn't too far off. Now if this china built amp cost between $119.99, & $149.99= not a bad deal.
I have to agree 110%.
I have not long ago gotten back into car audio. In the 80s & 90s I was heavy into the Lowrider lifestyle (with my best being 1985 Buick Regal w/ 4x pumps -16 switches all Red's Hydraulics. 8" cylinders on the front - 12" on the rear. Powered with 10x deep cell marine batteries). Anyway (sorry. I get caught up sometimes lol) Fuses, @StereoMojo mentioned one time that was a good sign & way to kinda give you a ballpoint figure on what an amp is really going to do (I never thought about this until I joined the channel)... The Cobalt I purchased in 2015 3200 watts 6400.1D mono - has 4x or 5x 40 amp fuses... When people kick MY Cobalt I mention the year model and the # of fuses and that stops the replies lol.
@@barnes29510 - Your Cobalt if 4x 40 amps of fusing= Approximately 1,600 watt amp, & if 5x 40 amps of fusing= approximately 2,000 watt amp.
Algorithm comment 👍 and on a side note, I've never heard of the brand either. Great video as always.
I had never heard of this brand. Looks good and good power for the price. But I'm tired of these companies way over exaggerating the power ratings and then putting it all over the amp.
They have been out for yrs, I remember seeing their amps 20 yrs ago. I use to have a 3k quantum audio and it produced a lot of power for what it was. I was impressed to be honest, I bought it from a pawnshop for 60 or 70 bucks which was definitely worth it
Pretty good power for the price I think. I figured with that kind of power though it would have external fuses?? Thanks for the videos!!
Their older amps did
New technology.
I dont know what flea markets or local retailers that guy went to, but I have never ever heard of this brand. Must be because of their boss like offerings. LOL.
I would spend $3 more and get a WA-2k. 🥴 😎
@@Scotts229 I like the way your thinking! lol. Thanks Scott!
Nice amp for my daughter's car 💯💯💪💪👑
Awesome video man! Could you possibly try the Z12000D Class D Monoblock 1-Channel 2000 Watts Amplifier from Bass Rockers. Wonder if it does its power for $125?
Hit the like button you so call morning boys😅
They should have marketed as a 1200 watt amp🤷🏿♂️
@@LEVONLEWIS1 yeah, I agree
I wish there was a way to rate sub amps by the sound character. Some have a soft, mellow sounding bass and some are very punchy and dynamic. (that's what I prefer) Then there's everything in between.
No one really seems to talk about this. I dont know if it's a matter of them not hearing a difference or if they just don't care. 🤔
It's all about how loud that they can play them now. Almost everyone just wants SPL now and seem not to care about SQ anymore.
Guessing they’re relying on a potential lightning strike to help
@@superchile9640 lol, I guess so!
Stop smacking your lips!
It’s my favorite
Thank you for keeping your content clean!
@@gregkirby thanks Greg! What a nice compliment!
@@stereomojo I definitely subscribed!
@@gregkirby cool! Thanks for the support Greg!
Price on Amazon just said $169 if im looking at the same one. Just bought a jp13 from d4s that was on sale, $199 out the door. 2k on a dyno, plus badass bass knob.
Quantum? Guessing 40-45% of rated but the full bridge always gets me
Morning boyS
Good Morning Cully!
Before I watch the video.. it is DB lower level product.. I doubt it will do half of rated.
Check out the Okur OFR 3000.1D It's an full range amp and there's the OFR 2000.1D too.
@@jorgellanos6726 I’ll have to see if I can find it
@stereomojo sure! Here in Puerto Rico we use a lot of Okur and Quantum Audio amps for door speakers and even small subwoofers.
@@jorgellanos6726 cool. Do you know if it’s on Amazon?
@stereomojo since my address is for Puerto Rico I couldn't find any Okur amps on Amazon but on Ebay I found both and the 4 channels as well.
@@stereomojo where I can contact you, I found an authorized dealer for the Okur Amps.
Sad to see them saying 5k when it's not. I would buy it if they told the true...
In my experience a 5k Amp puts out much more at 4ohm bud
Please do a Dyno on the Orion cbt 3500.4
Price drop on the 4000 model variant
Big story teller 😂😂😂 , told us we wouldn't get a vid today . Sneaky 😅
I've never heard of this brand. With its results, it must be owned by the owner of BOSS Audios brothers, cousins, uncles, sister's daddys cousin, twice removed. 😂😂😂. I'm sorry, but it looks like one of those cheap Wal-Mart amps to me.
Nope you would never believe it look it up actually a top tier brand
fake 5k
Well 1500 watts ain’t bad for $170 but 5000 watts it’s definitely not.
This amp dyno tested= 1,340 watts R.M.S to clipping, @ 1 ohm, & cost $157 w/tax.
(I apologize for blowing the comments up)
In my Accord, it has to be the electric load indicator that's causing all the problems. Because I bumped up the bass knob the other day and when I'm putting the juice to the subs.. she goes to misfiring something awful. And my RPM tac is acting crazy as hell. The alternator is putting out 13.8 - 14 & not dropping at any point..... I'm going to change the oil this week and I'll take a look at that every point of ground in the electrical system and all... Maybe something just needs some TLC. (Dang if I'm not running low on TLC with the car😅)
The power and grounds on the Accord are roughly 10 gauge wire, with the passenger side body to engine ground being an uninsulated braid strap. Doesn't matter what your alternator is showing for output, it all gets bottlenecked in the wiring. The tach signal dropping out is a sure sign the ECM is suffering from low voltage and the misfires are most likely from low fuel pump output and/or loss of ignition coil output. Upgrade your wiring is the moral of the story.
@@DustmanDiagnostics man, I'm so appreciative for the info! I have been trying to figure this car out for years! I had the parts store put the scanner on it way back.... It would show a misfire and it showed an ECM fault but nothing pacific. I have changed coil packs 3 times and plugs twice. Still nothing changed. I changed the fuel regulator... no change. Everyone I've talked to has been lost. They all tell me to get a new ECM and I just can't afford it.... It shifts odd too. You can ease the throttle down and sometimes it'll go into passing gear but never at the right RPM. And when you ease the throttle down it feels like it's straining to speed up.... Feels kinda like if you're holding the brakes and slowly getting off them while accelerating... When it reaches about 60 mph it turns loose.
Anyway, I sure do appreciate you letting me know about the wiring. I'm assuming I can pull up the wiring diagram online? What size should I upgrade to?
@@barnes29510 On older Hondas (2000-2012) I would upgrade to 4 gauge at the minimum if doing any audio system upgrades. The before mentioned ground strap that is located on the passenger fender under the power steering reservoir and is bolted to the passenger engine mount.
The battery negative to body ground is a very short run bolted to the driver's fender from the battery.
The alternator to battery cable with a 2.4 Liter engine runs under the intake manifold and is held in place with a few tie clips. The 3.0 Liter engines have the alternator wire running along the bank 2 (radiator side) valve cover. Newer Accords and Civics have the power cables running along the back of the engine under the exhaust manifold and are larger gauge wire.
As far as this being the culprit for your misfires I wouldn't be able to verify anything for certain without running a full diagnostic and knowing at the very least what year model your Accord is. Hondas are very picky about the type of ignition coils and spark plugs that are used. The typical over the counter parts store coils are not very reliable, so I only install OEM Honda or Denso units along with NGK plugs. Also one commonly overlooked reason for misfires and lack of power is valve adjustment. Honda is one of the only ones left who still have adjustable valves. I would honestly start with a cylinder compression test and verify they are all within specifications before chasing any misfires.
Seeing as how your particular Accord misfires and loses tach signal when turning up the bass knob, it really would make sense that the PCM power or ground signal was dropping out or dipping very low during the event. Not to be taken as gospel, but a good place to start. Good luck to you brother.
I can't believe you never of this brand. It's sold in all the flea markets and local audio retailers. This is also the gear that beginners buy and end up turning the gain all the way up because it's not bumping enough for em. But this amplifier would be perfect "not price wise though" for two entry-level 15's in the right box. I would probably spend a little extra on a XS Power lithium for that amplifier. Just my opinion.
I was talking with a guy at a custom audio shop the other day about your channel here. We was talking about how dyno'n amps nowadays is almost a must if you're on a budget. But he said there was a video where this guy was checking a 5k amp and it dyno'n in at 18,000 watts! I haven't taken the time to try and find that particular video yet but I'm going to lol.
Yeah.....no
At that price I would HAVE to get the Welsh Audio WA-2K Amplifier, Class D, Mono! If y'all haven't had the chance to check this amp out?! Ya really need to! Because it's a freaking BEAST!
One last thing about this Quantum... You asked about our likes and dislikes - it looks like my 2nd dislike is not having a fuse. I didn't see any in or outside. So, that's just not good at all... Even back in the day, some amps had inline fuses on the output speaker wires. And ofc the 1st dislike is false advertisement. Common knowledge tells you you're not going to get 5,000 watts for under $500 or so. But still it's the principal of it all.
Okay my man, I'm going to get some work done today. Thanks again for checking this out for me and everyone else! OH, Newegg has this same amp priced at...get this... $301.56! Now that's the type of bs that pisses me off.... I picture someone saving money for this and it's not worth it!
KEEP'EM COMING BROTHER!! 🫵🏻🫵🏻💪🏻🤙🏻👑🇺🇸
Quantum! I'm glad I waited on your review. I've had this amp in & out the eBay cart 3 different items the past two weeks 😅. I haven't watched it yet (I had to post a comment first 😂). Thanks for looking into this amp. After I mentioned it to you some time ago I did a little research. Quantum has actually been in business for a while... I'm not sure if they have sold out to other companies (like Lanzar, etc). I have noticed that's when a product either continues to be quality or it falls face first in the dirt.
But anyhow, thanks again for a great upload! 🫵🏻💪🏻🇺🇸🪳👑
Btw, the price wasn't too bad on this amp. When I saw that, I knew you would probably be interested in doing the review.